SCROLL DOWN TO FIND YOUR ENGINE.
First note prior to all adjustments listed here: install a pyrometer to make sure you dont melt your expensive engine down!
I have an account with facebook, if you'd like to become a fan: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Low-Buck-Diesel-Power/462708865493
To gain access to the fuel screw on the 3116, you must remove the valve cover. The adjustment screw is between #1 and #2 cyl. If the seal tag/plate is still present it will need to be removed. You will need to remove the tag by removing the rocker shaft stand bolt. The screw and lock nut are on the rack bar, and take a 2mm allen wrench and an 8mm deep socket. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to increase rack travel.
There is also 350hp marine injectors, if you're looking for a big power increase. Just note;WILL need to replace the turbo, and MUST run a pyrometer
Tools needed-7/16" socket, a short extension or 2, and a screwdriver. If you look on the top of the pump you'll see a cover with 2 bolts that's about the same size as a Holley carb's float bowl. Fuel does come out sometimes, and does not need bleeding afterwards. Under it is a screw with a jamb nut. If you hit the accel. linkage you'll see a little pin come up. The screw stops the pin and thus, limits fuel. So adjust it as far up as you can as long as you can tolerate the black smoke. Most turbo'd 3208's can run fine with the screw all the way out(removed). And just behind that is the high rpm governor adjustment. It's labeled as 'high idle', but only go 2-3 turns at a time as to keep it under 3200 no load. Backing the screw out raises the rpm. One more adjustment is the pre-boost power. This is up in the front of the other 2 adjustments. It's round & has 3 bolts holding it & 6 holes in it. Take all 3 bolts out and you may have to smack it with something to break it loose(mosly from paint). Now tighten it like you're screwing it in tighter, that makes the power come in sooner. If you go 'til it stops, then you may see lots of smoke if you mash down on the pedal. Back it out as needed.
If you're looking for even more, there are some marine injectors for the 3208T, which are rated at 435hp.
Start with calling the Cat dealer to get the highest hp rating your combo will do. Get the fuel pressure up a little(dealer). 10k powerstroke mod works, but use a 4.7k resistor instead. Results aren't that great if you have an auto trans. Most notable power increase is around 12-1800 rpm, after that it's hardly noticeable. ICP sensor is up next to the valve cover, just a little ways back from the front on the driver's side. You can also put a 3.9k resistor on the manifold pressure sensor(MAP sensor). It uses the 5 volt source to sensor return, not ground. Other than that, Edge and a couple other places make a plug in module for them(with mixed results). Another route is to get your injectors machined or replaced with 475hp marine nozzles, ECM redone at a shop(PDI inc is a good one) if you're looking at going past the hp rating you have, and a bigger turbo may be needed.
On the back of the pump is a cover/plate that is said to be almost heart shaped(a few inches below the AFC housing). There are 2 allen head screws behind that plate that have 3/8 (on B&C's pumps, a single 7/16 on the A) locknuts on them. On an 'A' model you can just take the screw out, since it cant flow enough to cause any harm. Carefully loosen the locknuts with a deep socket, then remove ratchet and insert the allen wrench through the socket so you can hold the locknut in one place. Turn both screws counterclockwise EXACTLY the same amount of turns. Usually start by going 1 full turn on both, then run it. Any additional turns afterwards should be no more than half. Don't get greedy, you'll burn it up. You can get well over 500Hp playing with those B model pumps, but don't come back here blaming me if you don't know how to take your foot out of it and let it cool down. With the screws were turned all the way out, and a C model turbo on it, you can get a little over 600Hp. But it gets hot, if not careful.
Here is the "springs method" for the 3406B&C. Much better results than the one mentioned above:
Take the line and 2) 1/4" bolt cover off the air fuel ratio on the very back and top of the gov. Nothing there to be scared of. Grab the plunger stem with plyers and break the 7/16" jam nut loose with box end wrench, Turn screw all the way in until just leaving enough threads to lock down. Not real precision, just set it anywhere tight. Re-assemble...
On the very bottom of the rear of the gov. towards the outside (frame side) is another 1" tall 1/4" bolt cover. Remove the bolts, one on top of the other this time, and smack down on the cover with a screwdriver and hammer. The harder the better. It'll leave the gasket perfectly intact for reassembly that way. Again, nothin to screw up so have at it. Facing in from the back stick your pinky in the slotted hole and push in on that thing. Just face the front of the truck, turn palm up and stick it in. Again, and just to clarify, this is all idiot proof and you can't mess anything up on any of this. Ain't rocket science, for real. Easiest motor to jack up, for sure. SSSooooo, you'll feel the rack screw bar with the fuel and torque screws. Just push on whatever you run into in there. The more travel, the more servo movement. All you're doing with your finger is makin sure another bonehead wasn't in there playin. Make sure when you push it all the way in (about 5/16" travel plus change is about 425hp stock, but doesn't really matter how fat it does go) you can feel about .030" or so (just picture a .030" gauge and guess, really) of secondary spring pressure. That is the torque spring on the stop bar. It doesn't have to be exactly anything, just want that little bit of extra pressure for torque rise. I won't explain it all, but your feeling torque spring pressure from the screw making sure someone before didn't turn one screw out from the other (doing it wrong). There are two screws side by side. If there is no pressure there, turn the outer most screw (towards you) in until there is. Do this with a 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket (12 point is easier) with baby vice grips clamped to the very end as the lever and a sumthin stupid like 7/64" or somethin allen wrench down the center. Just take your allen set and stick it in the end of the screw to find the size (or call your local dealer, ask for truck shop and just ask em what size). Insert socket, break loose counter clockwise with allen wrench in hole, turn screw CCW and lock back down. If your torque pressure feels OK, or you reset it as stated, back out both screws evenly to the tune of about 20hp per turn or so. Wipe off housing and cover and stick back on with original gasket. No glues on anything anywhere here. If the trucks in good shape, go 3 turns or so and run it a round. If your pyro stays below 950, meaning it's timed close enough to stock or advanced properly, turn it out another 3 and call her good. That's it. Have fun. It can be super tweaked with meter timing and gov. removal, but you'll be pretty happy like this unless you run into me on the road somewhere. Want peace of mind and better mileage, take it to someone trustworthy (Cat dealer, and tellem you want an old timer on it) and set a tight overhead ($225 or so) and meter time ($100) to 17.5 degrees at 1000 and start at 1230, plus remove the stop screw and toss it. This won't make sense to you but that's exactly what you tell him. He'll know just what you're saying, believe me. That'll land you between 5.2 and 5.7mpg depending on what you haul, and between 530 and 560 hp. You'll know it all worked when it goes from 20psi boost to 27 the first time (3 turns) and 32+ the next (3 turns). Add an 0R6051 turbo for a couple more pounds and better power ($1000 with your core as an even swap, and don't let them try to tell you there's a core charge. There isn't, for sure). And don't worry, it'll all take it just fine. With more exagurated tuning, she'd pull 800hp just as it sits with no motor mods whatsoever and live to 750,000 miles without a hitch. If you're running 15psi boost right now and the first 3 turns didn't increase the boost, have the dealer replace you air fuel ratio diaphram ($100). Have fun... Thanks again to Tony from Welch Diesel Repair for this article!
80psi compound turbos with Cat parts:
1) 10R1888 turbo
1) 10R1887 turbo
1) 1479707 hose
1) 2479708 hose
1) 2420659 tube
1) 2428005 tube
1) 2338005 expansion joint
1) 2235665 expansion joint
4) 2396807 clamp
2) 2396808 clamp
1) 2253054 elbow
1) 2310346 elbow
1) 2306325 inlet duct
1) 2306328 inlet duct
1) 2313462 exhaust manifold
Any other questions, or concerns, please make a new post on this site:http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=64
drill out the ball in the throttle shaft and back out the screw a bit. And thanks to eldgenb on Steel Soldiers, here's a great how-to for the throttle shaft....with pictures too:
adjust your aneroid valve so it gets rid of the fuel supply delay to make it more responsive ( the aneroid's function is to limit fuel until the turbo spools up. Its behind the little tin cover beside the throttle shaft).
shim the governor spring
change the fuel pump button (I think its actually called an 'idle plunger' or something). This is the biggest bang for your buck. Its not that hard to do but I can't recall the specifics because its been over a decade since I did this. A few hand tools are all thats required to pop the cap off the end of the pump then a socket and needle nose pliers to pull the stuff out. The 'buttons' are stamped with a number on the groove where it is narrower and the lower the number, the more fuel pressure. The numbers go up in a weird sequence if I can recall --> alternating between the increase of 2, then 3, then repeat --> like 5, 7, 10, 12, 15, etc. Depending on how far you want to go, guys used to take whatever they had and drop the number by 10 or 15 and it was pretty safe. Just be sure to have a pyro (that works properly), be sure to warm it up properly because that extra fuel will score a liner much quicker when not warmed. Do not lug the engine - drop a gear soon as there is enough rpm room to do so. Someone had an '84 Big Cam III and it had something like a 30ish button and we ran a 5. It was 'hot'!
The fuel pressure increased from somewhere around 180 to over 300. Some guys had a hard time with turbos when they did this.
For the 89-93's (Bosch rotary "VE" pump)there's a screw behind a tin access cover about the size of a nickel. Shown in this article: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm . It takes a 1/2"(13mm) to break the jamb nut loose, then take the screw out. It'll have a metal band welded on it that needs to come off. Once that's off you can run the jamb nut farther out(towards the outside of the pump, about 2 turns). Then put it back in and test, some smoke more than others(especially with Lucas POD injectors!). The pre boost power adjustment is under a cover that looks like a vacuum diaphragm, and it is one. It has a torx bit with a jamb nut. Loosen the torx for more low end & tighten for higher. The governor spring is different than in the later 12 valves, and not adjustable, but reasonably priced. The other adjustment is to rotate the diaphram, under the top cover with 4 screws. Turn the diaphram clockwise 90-120 degrees, this is like sliding the fuel plate on a 94-98. Now put it back in & test.
The best bang for the buck, is to get a gov spring, most of the time they are under $20, and let it rev up to 3200 rpm. If you plan on a gov spring, hold off on doing the fuel screw shown above, it needs to be close to stock setting. Great instructions are here:
The 94-98 12valve:
Easy instructions at http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf They are instructions to replace the fuel plate, but instead of replacing you just slide it forward. I also have another article with a couple pictures here: (Link not working....will add it ASAP) . Not that I'm getting to the troubleshooting part here, but often overlooked is the overflow valve. It's basically the fuel pressure regulator and should be replaced every 100k miles.
and for the Governor springs: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15634
This uses a washer to shim the governor springs for more rpm, usually about 3200. It's the low buck alternative to a 3k gov spring kit(GSK). Although, you cant go wrong with the real thing. A real 3k GSK is usually $150 or less, and you need heavier valve springs if you start pushing past 3400 rpm(if you go with the 4k GSK). They also come with decent instructions, and can usually be done in just under 2 hrs for a first timer.
Side note for the older 8.3, Yours may have a different inline pump than what's shown here. It could be 2 other types of pumps, the MW and the A. The MW is listed in the 1984-1992 DT466 section farther down the page.
Ford 6.6 & 7.8 are listed with the DT466 section below.
Ford Powerstroke/International T444E:
The following is from another site for the 10k mod http://www.dieselhub.com/performance/7.3-powerstroke-icp-resistor-mod.html
Injector Control Pressure Modification
aka the 10K Mod , also an 18k, also called diode or clamp mod for the ICP.
There's also the IDM mod for the single shot(up to early 98), which is a little more involved. https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/94-98-7-3l-performance-parts/276212-diy-idm-mod-injector-mod-how-w-lots-pics.html
Lastly, up the fuel pressure to 60-65psi. You can either get a remote adjustable setup from dieselsite.com or shim your existing regulator here: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77281
For the mechanical pumps (up thru 93):
There's a 5/32" allen under the fuel stop sol. & cover, but is very risky to do. This engine can "runaway" if you're not careful. You have to remove the little linkage pieces inside the bowl. I think there's a spring, a small tin-like lever for the shutoff assembly, and the throttle/fuel control sliding plate. There's also a side access cover to get to the adjustment without having to disable the fuel shutoff and remove accelerator sliding pieces and springs. After you take off either cover (and/or the pieces inside) you'll notice a small hole, that's where the 5/32" allen goes. Sometimes it needs to be lined up by rotating the engine. Disable the glowplugs before doing this part! If you slowly rotate it by the alt. you'll see it come into sight. Now turn the allen about 1/4 turn clockwise, less on non-turbo and reassemble it all.
For the 94 & up:This is the "optical bump", which basically gives a bump in timing, which the 6.5s seem to like.
This seems to work very similarly to the rotation of the entire IP, but with far less work and only the following common tools:
T-27 Torx bit
Snap Ring Pliers
T-40 Torx bit
The task is this - remove the top cover of the IP. You'll see the optical sensor there. Use the T-27 bit and the snap ring pliers to remove the cover and free up the optical sensor upper half.
The lower half is held in with a T-40 screw and a plate. Supposedly, shifting the optical sensor 1mm will achieve power gains. Scribe the area under the lock plate (Stanadyne supposedly does this already, but some pumps don't have a guide mark), unscrew the T-40 partially, take a screwdriver,
and shift the lower sensor assembly 1mm towards the passenger side. Use another screwdriver to hold the lock plate in place. Tighten everything and reassemble.
Supposedly, power increases and there is either a negligable or minor increase in MPG. And you don't need any special tools to rotate or loosen the IP.
Talking about the International DT series truck & tractor engines, 360, 408, 466, & 530(and a few in between), Ford/New Holland 6.6 & 7.8, and Mack E7. Roughly covering years from 1984-1997. Caution note, the electronic 466E/530E started in late 95.There's 3 different types of pumps that I've done. First up, the Model 100 rotary from Ambac. Then, the mid 80's to 92(MW pump) and last, the 93 to 97(P-pump). For more hp than this, Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. It is possible to get 1000hp for about $10k is what I hear about for the 466. Careful shopping will be your guide there!
You can adjust the rotary pump(older than 84). Under the big square cover is a plate. It's a fuel screw that's on that plate. About an inch below the top of the pump is the screw. Loosen the jamb nut, then back out the screw(bolt). It won't be a whole lot of power, but it's worth a try. Still working on the rpm adjustment too. If you have done this, please post on Diesel Garage forums!
This picture above is the rotary(ambac model 100) with the top cover off. Adjust out the screw facing the rear, the one that's down in the pump an inch or so. Hard to see in this picture, but it's down there.
The easy ones are the 93-97 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it flat. Dont run with no plate like the "Dodge boys" do, these pumps dont like it & will run real crappy(it'll get too much timing retarding). The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. Then the last adjustment is the stop screw. It stops the accelerator lever on the pump just like the one for the idle adjustment. While the engine is off you can see it hit when you cycle the lever to max. Just loosen the jamb nut and run the bolt into the pump for more travel. Then you can do the timing:
As for the governor springs, these are instructions for the 12V dodge, but it's still going to be about the same, just easier to get access.
You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm. Another option(free) is to just tighten the original springs 3 or 4 clicks. After you read the article linked above, the "clicks" will make more sense. Just make sure you tighten both sets of springs. Each click will be roughly 100 more rpm you can use before the pump starts to de-fuel(most stock trucks will only hit 2700 on a good day). Last tid bit, if you want to turn your 466 into a 530, all you need is the 530 inframe kit. You can even go all out, and get 2pc steel pistons for major EGT protection. The steel pistons add $1000 to the kit price(IH dealership prices), so you know.
The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above, and yes, you can use a Dodge/Cummins P-pump set of governor springs, which will gain it around 300rpm from stock on a 3k set. I have not tried the 4k gov springs yet, but I will. The timing advance is covered in the same article as mentioned above or here it is again: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7296
Here is for the actual fuel rate on these pumps: The actual full fuel adjustment is on the back(facing the rear) of the pump.
Here's a video of it; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3InnotLRAE
It's right behind the cap with the 2 screws. Pull out the assembly of the cap, and 2 screws on the little stud. Loosen up the 10mm nut first, then back out the 14mm nut to it, then snug them back together. It will really wake it up! This next picture is an exploded view of the pump parts that get adjusted. Thanks to the folks at Steel Soldiers for the pic.
A quick video of the timing here:
Here's tightening the gov springs 4 clicks:
Here's adjusting the top fuel screw(dumps fuel at lower rpm):
IH DT466E/DT530E (1996-2008):
This is where you will find the limited answers and support for DT466E performance.
The first place to try for more power is the IH dealer, they should be able to reflash the computer. Then, try the power adders.
The cheapest is the 10k mod, which is a hit & miss. Some trucks respond great, and some dont gain anything but a trouble code. http://www.dieselhub.com/performance/7.3-powerstroke-icp-resistor-mod.html
There are some shops, (like Swamps) that can do some IDM mods and programming to the older 3 ECM system(early 98 and older).
Just my opinion, but the add on performance modules aren't really worth the expense for the tiny gain you get, unless you have an 04.5-08. For those, the Hypermax module really works(link is farther down).
It's the computer that is the main limiting factor on all the 466/530E engines.
In my opinion, this module should be the best one out if you're running a newer (04.5-08)466/530E: http://www.gohypermax.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=4dcc33ca-540c-4a10-994d-20b2f589cd42
Then, there's the fuel pressure regulator. You remove the fuel pressure regulator (rear of the head on the 96-early 04) and screw the plunger all the way down with a square EZout, back it off about a quarter turn, and get somewhere around 60-70 psi, where stock setting is 40-45psi. Same idea applies to the 04-08, but the pressure relief valve is in the bottom of the fuel filter housing.
I did test around with the oil temp sensor, but end result is just not worth the trouble.
On the EGR equipped trucks(04-08), I'm getting a line up on an EGR block off plate. Benefits being: mpg gains, slightly quicker turbo spoolup, and coolant temp drop.
Last tid bit, if you want to turn your 466 into a 530, all you need is the 530 inframe kit. You can even go all out, and get 2pc steel pistons for major EGT protection. The steel pistons add $1000 to the kit price(IH dealership prices), so you know.
If all else(for the pre-04.5 466/530E only), you can do a Ppump swap. I actually would suggest this to anyone thinking of a power upgrade more than 20hp. You will need a late 93 to 97 mechanical 466 or 530 to rob parts off of. Best bet is to get a donor engine. It all bolts in. Swap over the timing cover and gears, the pump, lines, injectors, and the head & intake. You can also swap the whole engine. When you factor in the cost of a high hp ECM, injectors, and HPOP, you could have bought a donor engine and have triple the reliability.
The outer nut is the lock nut. The inner nut is turned to adjust the screw in or out. The fuel delivery increases as the screw moves out (=turning the adjusting nut clockwise). On some model pumps there's a threaded cap over the adjusting screw and one lock nut. After removing the cap release the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise. Or into the FDC. And lock the nut back down. Only turn the screw in 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment rapidly move the throttle open and closed. Watch the exhaust smoke when it starts to blacken then stop and lock the nut back down. Not too tight because the screw is a fine thread into aluminum and you may strip the threads.
I can also have your injectors rebuilt and extrude honed for more power. It may run a bit hot with some turbos.
Here's another version of the Lucas CAV pump adjustment. It's got pictures along with an easy to follow guide, plus results after the adjustment.
Copy & paste the site above for reference. If your CAV pump looks like this then put the engine at TDC, remove the cover off the pump (the one under the ".com" in the photo)
turn up the fuel on a CAV
injector pump you take the fuel plate off on the side of the pump. When you
take the plate off it will empty all the fuel out of the pump so watch out!
You will then see a steel wheel with letters on it that sits on a shaft ,
you will see two black bolts that go through steel wheel with letters loosen
them, when the bolts become out of there holes, the bolts won't come out of
the wheel. Make sure, DO NOT SLIDE THE WHEEL off the spline shaft becuz it
is a pain in the arse to get back on. Okay anyways where the bolts go into
there is plate turn the plate one full turn you have to do full turns
because you have to screw the bolts back into the steel plate. The bolts
seem to come off good with an 8mm wrench and so does the plate on the pump.
After you turn the plate( by the way if you turn the plate the other way it
decreases fuel ) And put it all back together. You will need to bleed the
system after this.
( I was working on a pump on the left side of the vehicle and i turned the
plate toward me and the fuel was turned up so the other way obvisouly turns
the fuel down. )