The first thing to do is be sure to have the tools required (circuit tester for finding live wires and a polarity tester for testing for + or - cables for camera connection) as well as 7m of 5 amp cable, insulation tape and various cable connectors. There's nothing worse than rushing back to the store to buy extra parts whilst your rear spoiler is hanging off so be prepared.
First Task: Test Camera
Make sure your camera works and at the same time if not already indicated you'll be able to see which is top and bottom of your camera. You might as well test your camera at the connection points that you'll use to finally hard wire your camera to, to save testing live points later.
Flip down your glove compartment lower lid all the way down, now sqeeze the sides together at the back to pull it past the stop point, now you'll need to dislodge the easy-glide stay at the left hand side
push a screw driver in to force stay off the pin
Your lower glove box lid can now be completely removed to expose fuseboard. With your circuit tester find a live wire which only comes on with your ignition and mark it, if you have a monitor supporting two video inputs, this will power it while reverse is not selected.
then remove the cover on the left hand side of tailgate to expose the reversing lamp and find the + of the lamp with your polarity tester, (ignition on select reverse) for your convenience it's the solid white wire, but double check.
Now that you've found these points you can test your camera but before you do, make sure you fit a 1 amp fuse to the wire from the reverse lamp + to your camera just to be sure of not blowing your camera (especially if it's an NTSC), use a suitable connection point on the body for your neg connections.
Once all connected up, turn ignition to on without starting engine, select reverse and "bingo" you have an image in your monitor.
Mark the vertical axis and which is top of camera for later reference and then disconnect remembering to mark your electrical connection points.
Second Task: Fitting Camera
Remove your existing spoiler, should take no longer than 10 minutes once you've done it before.
Open rear hatch
Pop off center plastic trim piece by prying it from the top of the window.
Remove rubber covers to access the 4 screws
Remove the 4 screws
Unplug 3rd brake light plug
Close hatch
There are 9 plastic retainers holding on the wing at this point
4 on the left, 4 on the right, one in the middle
Use the palm of your hand and pop the wing toward the sky
Once removed or if you're fitting your camera to a new large wing, mark the position of your camera on your spoiler. The replacement large wing has a space already allocated for a high level rear mounted mirror which is the perfect place to fit your camera.
It is a very tight fit if fitting to a stock spoiler depending on the size of your camera. The size I used is 42mm long x 30.8mm diameter and as you can see it'll just about go, so the smaller the camera body the better.
You will need a cutter to suit the diameter of your camera, one that will cut without spiralling underneath the surface of the spoiler which might split it. This one came with my camera as a full package deal.
Drill the hole.
On the large wing you'll also need to cut away some plastic on the inside.
test fit your camera for size.
It's up to you but I painted the flange of my camera with silver paint to match the bodycolour, mines not exact in this pic but I will repaint it once I receive my touch up kit from the dealer.
To ensure the camera is vertical when the spoiler is re-fitted, place a straight edge centrally along the bottom edge of your spoiler and use a square, ensuring it passes through the vertical axis of your camera which you marked earlier
For large wing replacement spoiler you need to remove your stock spoiler and swap over the brake lights and fittings as they are re-used again.
Refit existing or replacement spoiler/wing in reverse of removal instructions but feed the camera cables through with the brake lamp cable.
Third Task: Hard Wire The Camera
Pull away the trim on the left hand side of your tailgate but there's no need to pull it all the way off as it's a little difficult with the angle of the snap clips, just the first two clips will
be enough to feed your power cables. I found it easier to feed them through from the reverse lamp apature then pull them through from where you prized the trim apart
Connect your cables to the reverse lamp + and the vehicle body.
Now is the most time comsuming part of the install which is feeding the RCA cable into the tailgate.
Feed one end of both your monitor 7m RCA and 7m 5 amp cable up into the tailgate from up through the head lining by removing the 3 pop clips.
Wedge lining down a little, enough to pass your RCA cable up through the opening where your existing cables run by dislodging the rubber boot
Now you must feed your Monitor RCA cable through the boot by pushing it through using a caterpillar motion as it is very very tight and will take a while. If you attach a coat hanger wire to it to try and make it easier, it will be even worse because of the head of the RCA connector's size so persevere and it will eventually come through.
now pass some coat hanger wire through the boot and attach it to your 5 amp cable and draw it through.
connect both the reverse lamp cables to the power socket and the RCA cable to the female video out of the camera which will be hanging down.
On the reverse + cable make a brake in the line to fit the 1 amp fuse and to also connect the 7m 5 amp cable which will run to the monitor enabling it to switch on when reverse is selected just as the camera will.
Re-insert rubber boot and replace trim.
Fourth Task: Cable Run
Tape your RCA and 5amp cable together as they'll follow the same run to the monitor.
As my outlander is a commercial vehicle it was much easier for me to run the cables under the panelling on the floor. You can still use this route if you have rear seats.
This is the route I took, down the rear pillar by pulling away the rubber seal to the boot/trunk and slipping the cables behind the plastic trim by partially poping it off being careful to avoid the pulley near the bottom of the lower tailgate
Tuck your cables behind the plastic side trims at the bottm and do so all the way to the front footwell.
Fith Task: Fitting/Wiring The Monitor
Clip on your mirror/monitor to existing mirror.
Remove the left air vent by gently prizing it out with a screwdriver as illustrated then pulling it with your hands trying not to scratch it.
Now open the door, pull the rubber seal away from the frame and squeeze the the door pillar trim at the sides whilst pulling it, it's got loads of play up there and isn't difficult to pop apart at the top.
Some models have airbags in there so be very careful when doing this, my base model doesn't and has loads of space, perhaps that's why there was so much play. For airbag models you just need to be extra careful.
The cable your monitor is supplied with now needs to be pushed up from the fuseboard area up into the door pillar which is a little fiddly on your own as you are down below pushing upwards unable to see very well above but it's still possible to be do alone
Once you have sight of the cable, pull it on up and run it into the head lining.
you can tuck the cables into the head lining from the edge and run it up to the monitor as it's quite loose (no clip popping neccessary as there is plenty of slack up there).
plug the cable into the monitor and tuck away excess cable.
At the other end of the monitor cable, plug in your RCA male from the camera, connect the neg to the body at one of the bolts holding the fuseboard in place, connect the reverse + to your 5 amp cable run and connect the live to the ignition-on wire you marked earlier.
Tidy cables with ties and refit glove compartment lower lid.
Sixth And Final Task: Test Installation
I've parked on my driveway which is on a slope, as you can see from each door mirror I am in the centre of my driveway and although the camera is offset from the middle of the vehicle, the wide lens of the camera still covers the whole of the rear, it's quite deceiving at first.
You can make final adjustments to your camera by twisting it as it has a rubber gasket between the flange and spoiler which has just enough movement to turn it.
Your Install Is Now Complete!
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