Breeding Pens
Living in the northeast, my Calls generally start laying in late march / early April. I never push them to start laying any earlier (using lights to extend daylight hours) for two reasons:
1 - My drakes generally aren't ready to fertilize eggs until early April so most eggs layed in early to mid March would be clear anyway.
2 - Due to my work schedule, I can't collect eggs until early evening. We still have cold weather in March and by the time I would be able to collect eggs, they would be frozen.
I keep breeding pens set up in pairs and trios (one drake & two ducks). Once fertility kicks in, I rarely change anything although some years I might be short a drake or like a particular drake so I will rotate him once a week between two pens of females. This has worked well for me (mostly) but you need to keep an eye fertility of these matings as I've had drakes prolapse without noticing it for a week or more.
My Calls all get on the ground at least three times a week for exercise, swimming and just to spread their wings. I have found it greatly helps fertility as Calls like to breed while swimming. My fences are thirty two inches high so I keep all my drakes wings clipped (sometimes they'd like to be in the next yard over). Here are some of my breeding pens and fenced yards.




Eggs & Incubation
I keep four trios of each variety and expect each female to lay three to four eggs each week. At the peak of breeding season, I'll collect around one hundred twenty eggs per week. Bedding (wood shavings or straw) is changed often to keep eggs clean- the less you have to handle eggs, the better. For real dirty eggs, I'll use my fingernail or submerge it in very warm water for five or ten seconds. While waiting to be set, eggs are stored in my basement where it's cool and pretty humid.
I use two Leahy redwood incubators and a GQF sportsman as a hatcher. The Leahy's hold four hundred eggs each while the GQF holds one hundred. My Call eggs generally hatch in twenty six days and I set twice a week alternating between incubators. Since my incubators are in the basement, I run them dry because it's already pretty humid there although large amounts of water are used in the hatcher to keep membranes from drying out. I hand turn eggs twice a day and candle once a week to remove infertile and dead embryo's. On day twenty four, I start candling for ducklings that have internally pipped and move them to the hatcher where they will stay until hatched and fluffed out. Here are my incubators.

Ducklings & Brooding
Call ducklings are very fragile especially in the first week. After spending their first day or so in the hatcher, they are moved to brooding pens. I use fifty four gallon plastic tubs covered and heated, welcome mats for flooring and auto waterer's to assure ducklings always have enough to drink. The tubs work well at keeping out drafts and are easy to clean. I use a work light reflector with a double bulb adapter for heat. The use of two bulbs per brooder assures ducklings have heat even if one bulb blows out. I learned early not to overcrowd ducklings as it made for major losses. Around twenty is the maximum number each brooder will support, even that number makes it messy very quickly.
Feeding ducklings is quite simple, I use Purina medicated Start & Grow for the first three weeks along with cut up grass clippings and the occasional fly that buzzes around the light in the brooder. The medication used in Purina helps prevent coccidiosis, I use it on all my waterfowl with no problems. At three weeks I start mixing in duck Purina duck grower pellets and if the weather is warm enough, they can start going outside during the day. For water, the small automatic watering cups made for chickens work very well. Ducklings can't get in the cups and all they have to do is push on the little tab in the cup to get a drink.



