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"Serendipity"
being restored
Custom Trailer for a Westwind 24
By Jim Schroeger
(Please
click to view enlargement)
Our plans call for us to trailer Serendipity to the
North Channel, and cruise there for two weeks. The alternative was
sailing there and back in two weeks, with no cruising time in the North
Channel!
The Trailer
We had the trailer built from scratch by a local
welding shop. It works great, but, as with many new ideas, this one
needs to be "tweeked" a bit to be 100%. The trailer is set up with
electric brakes, a custom fitted bed, dual axles and a 12' tongue
extension. It works perfect for launching but we had some problems with
getting her back out of the water.
Inertia
A WW-24 weighs 2 1/2
tons, and certainly more when she is loaded for cruising. Just filling
the water tank adds 100 lbs, so adding in fuel, anchors, all the gear
and so on, there could easily be another 500 lbs.
If you load all
that on a trailer, then start to pull the trailer up a launch
ramp you
will find that the trailer will move much easier and faster that the
boat!
We discovered that it is impossible to get her to
stay all the way forward on the trailer, moving up the launch ramp,
without a very strong cable holding her in place. As we did not provide
for this option in the design, ( no, I don't know why we didn't), the
boat kept sliding back as we tried to pull her up the launch ramp. The
very best we could do was to get her within one foot of where she
should have been.
This, in turn, made the trailer very stern heavy; to
the point where we could not retract the tongue extension.
The Trip Home
Now here's a picture: A 2 1/2 ton boat sitting on a
trailer, with a 20 foot tongue ( 12' extension + the original 8' ). We
live approximately 12 miles from our marina and I made the entire trip
traveling no more than 15 MPH. I can tell you my popularity around here
plummeted on that trip home! I must have angered about half the
population of Traverse City, Michigan, going that slow for that
distance!
The Solution
That slow drive home did, however, give me plenty of
time to figure out a solution. My truck has a fifth wheel hitch. I plan
to have a winch bracket made to fit the hitch.I'll use a stout winch to
crank Serendipity on to the trailer and more importantly, to hold her
in place while we drag her up the launch ramp.
Jim Schroeger
"Serendipity"
Traverse City, Michigan
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Laminated Beam Mast Support System
By Jim
Schroeger
(Please click to enlarge)
The process described below outlines the
process
used to create a mast support system consisting of a laminated hardwood
beam under the cabin top. It solves the cabin top sag and loose shroud
problem that seems to be inherent to a Westwind that has not been
properly maintained.
The beam is created by
following these steps:
(1) Template: Using medium weight cardboard make a pattern of
the exact shape of the inside cabin top where it meets the main cabin
bulkhead.
(2) Jig: Using
the pattern make a jig that represents
the pattern shape. The jig must be in two parts in such a way that the
top and bottom fit together in a curve that matches the cabin top
pattern. Using the pattern that replicates the curve of the cabin top;
trace the curve on a 2 x 10 piece of hem-fir. (standard building
materials found at any lumber yard. ) Using a jig saw saw the board in
two pieces along the curve. You will have to do this twice, creating
four pieces. Using 3" drywall screws fasten the two top pieces and the
two bottom pieces together, forming 3" thick top and bottom jig
sections.
Using 4" drywall screws securely anchor the bottom jig section to the
bench top, (after covering the bench with wax paper).
To use the jig place the required number of laminate pieces plus glue
into the jig and follow the process outlined for compressing the jig
and forming the beam.
(3) Hardwood: Cut 14 pieces of selected clear hardwood, ( we
used cherry), that measure 1/4” by 3” by 6’ ( check your pattern
length, if a length less than 6’ will do the job then make it so.)
(4) Clamps: Collect at least six 12” “C” clamps, 6 large
wooden cabinet clamps and six 4’ bar clamps., (not the pistol grip
style)
(5) Waxed Paper: Staple several layers of wax paper to the bench
top where you plan to lay up the beam. Also, at this time coat all
working surfaces of the jig with paraffin, ( canning wax will do).
(6) Forming the Beam: Using the jig, and a good grade of polyurethane
glue, begin laying up the multiple pieces of the laminated beam.
Continue until you have enough to equal 3 1/4” depth. Using every
possible clamp begin to squeeze the jig halves together. It will be
necessary to use a block and hammer to force the laminated pieces back
into alignment as you clamp the jig together. Continue until the pieces
are pressed together completely. Do not try to remove excess glue.
Polyurethane glue expands as it cures, so remove the excess with a
chisel when the entire beam is formed.
(7) Smoothing: Once the beam is cured you will have to smooth
it. A thickness planer is best for this job, but if you do not have
access to one you can use a regular smoothing plane. The goal is to
make your new beam smooth and even.
(8). End Cuts: The next step is to make the end cuts. The
pattern you made earlier is now used to determine length. The angles on
the end of the beam are compound. That is, there are actually two
angles to cut. The first is the angle between the cabin top and cabin
side and the second is the angle between the cabin side and the
bulkhead. An adjustable square is used to capture the second angle and
transfer it to the new beam. (If you have not already removed the side
trim and old header board you must do so now, before fitting the new
beam)
(9) Fitting: 
The final bit of fitting
involves the chain
plates. Be sure that the chain
plate bolts are positioned so that the
nuts are put on from the forward cabin. This will
allow for tightening
them in the future. It will be
necessary to measure and inlet the spaces for the
chain plates.
After this is completed begin fitting the
beam to the cabin top. By rubbing chalk on the cabin top you will be
able to see exactly where the beam is
hitting the cabin top. Carefully
remove the areas that are preventing a close fit.
(Please click to enlarge)
(10) Attachment:
When a desirable fit has been achieved,
temporally brace the beam in position and drill ten screw holes from
the forward side
of the main cabin bulkhead. Make several index marks
on the bulkhead and beam so you will know exactly where to return the
beam. Liberally coat the beam side and cabin bulkhead area where the
beam will meet with polyurethane glue. Reposition the beam and brace
it
in place. Using #12 by 3” stainless steel wood screws fasten the beam
to the bulkhead. If you have a flexible drill extension your job will
be somewhat easier as the break in the cabin will give you a few
problems. Be very sure the beam has been tightly drawn against the
bulkhead and that it is fully butted up to the cabin top.
Allow 24
hours for the glue to cure.
(11) Final
Steps: remove all bracing, clean up
the glue mess,
finish sand the whole works and reattach your factory ID plate,
( if
you are lucky enough to still have it). You will have to shorten the
side trim pieces to fit in their new space.
There you are; a fool
proof
mast support that definitely will not sag!!
(Please click
to enlarge)
Special note: You should
check the cabin top chain plates at least twice each season to be sure
they are not leaking. This is the primary source for rotted bulkheads
in a Westwind. The best beam in the world will do you no good at all if
it attached to a rotten bulkhead.
Any questions check the e-mail question line; we will get back to you!!
GOOD LUCK!!
Jim
Schroeger
"Serendipity"
Traverse City, Michigan
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Wish List - Got some ideas or plans?
Cockpit Drainage
The cockpit is spacious and
comfortable. This is great for daysailing, lounging or for sleeping
under the stars. It has easy access to the cabin through a wide and
deep companionway.On the other hand,
this large area could hold quite a bit of water if it came aboard in
bad weather. Even worse, the drains are small, and there is no
bridgedeck to keep the water from draining past the washboards into the
cabin. On the plus side, there are no cockpit seat lockers, whose lids usually leak water unless they are carefully sealed.
Planned fixes include upsizing the through-hull and drain hoses, and gasketing the companionway slides.
Another idea could be a removable bridgedeck/cockpit locker to reduce
the potential volume of water in the cockpit. One possibility is a
vertical slide running between the cockpit seats (about 18" aft of the
companionway), with a top that would bridge it to the lower
companionway slide. This might work if it could be sealed well enough,
but it would also reduce legroom, and be a pain to climb over going
below...
Add Soling Stay:
(This is a removeable inner forestay. It can be rapidly deployed and used to hoist a hanked-on working or storm jib)
This is a way to avoid roller furling, but still be able to make quick, safe sail reductions, without going forward.
- install backing plate for attachment to foredeck
- install sheave and extra jib halyard
Removable Galley extension/Chart Table/Cockpit Table
This is another of James Baldwin's great projects over at Atom Voyages. Wouldn't it be nice to have a small table that would fit just about anywhere in the Westwind?
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Maintenance Tips
Care of Teak:
"...our WW-24 was a real wreck when we got
her. The teak toe rail was a gray as ashes. I got the best ever "teak'
cleaner at our local Home Depot. It is Bear Wood Cleaner (green
bottle). You can buy a gallon for the price of a pint of teak cleaned
that you get at a marina and it works five times better. Just use it
full strength and the oldest, grungest teak will once again be golden
brown."
From The Paceship Cruising Yacht Manual:
"THE CARE AND UP-KEEP OF TEAK
NORTHWIND, ACADIAN, WESTWIND, PACESHIP 23, BLUEJACKET:
Teak is a remarkable wood. Even so, it has its peculuarities (sic) and if you are to get the
most from it these must be taken into account.
True, this wood requires no protection against the weather and it is remarkably durable. Even when left
bare, it doesn’t check easily and is highly immune to rot. Yet if utterly neglected, it can look drab, giving a
boat an unkempt appearance. Some owners have asked “How do I get that clean, silvery look?” The
more you rely on the washing and bleaching action of the sun, the better. Unless your location is particularly
dirty, an occasional scrubbing should suffice. Don’t overdo it. A wire or other stiff brush will tend
to cut down the softer wood of the grain and leave the harder ridges standing high.
The various bleaches made especially for teak do a good job, but avoid getting it on adjacent paint or
varnish. Where sanding is necessary, also be careful not to overdo
it. Usually light sanding will reveal clean wood immediately beneath the dead surface. Too fine a
sandpaper tends to rub surface dirt into the wood. Actually, teak should be scraped with a cabinet
scraper, but few persons have the skill for doing this, without removing too much wood.
To treat outside, the newer teak treating products are available in a wide choice of name brands; two of
these are “Kuhls Teak Oil” and”Penta-Var”. Retreating should not be necessary for several months. A
thorough cleaning ordinarily is enough to ready the surface for brushing or wiping on a fresh coat. For
those who cannot obtain teak oil, a mixture of raw linseed and turpentine will suffice. Do not apply too
much or the wood will not absorb it and it will lay on the surface and collect dirt."
Restoring Oxidized Deck and Coachroof
From Duncan Cameron:
" After wasting a lot of elbow grease on the dull,
yellowed surfaces, with '3M Marine Fiberglass Restorer and
Wax (for heavily oxidized surfaces)', I almost gave up. Just
for the heck of it, I tried some 'Vim Thick Bleach' - I rubbed lightly, left it on for
about 20 minutes, and rinsed it off with a hose - what a
difference!
This was followed up with a two-part cleaner
and polish - 'West Marine Fiberglass Cleaner/Protector Kit'. This
worked far better than the 3M product. People quit saying 'Geez, I
guess you got a lot of work', and started saying ' Hey, nice boat!' "
Restoring Faded Colour and Gloss
From Duncan Cameron:
There's a lot of ideas
and commercial products out there, but not all of them are effective-
what do you use?.
Here's one idea from the Pocket Cruisers bulletin board - Penatrol - anyone tried it?
An alternative to wax on older, faded hulls is Poliglow
- I saw two boats that had been done this summer, and they
looked very
good
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The Paceship Cruising Yacht Maintenance Manual
This is available to download at The Paceship Website
(It's under the heading of "Paceship Larger Boat Maintenance Manual")
.
Your Westwind Project Here?
Send us your project and share the experience!
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©2004 Larry Boutilier, Duncan Cameron and Jim Shroeger
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