Garden Ponds for waterfowl
I would like
to point out immediately I am not an expert in any shape or form when it comes
to ponds etc, this is not intended to be a building guide but simply one or two
things to think about before commencing building a pond. But I will have
omitted quite a few as well! I would like to hear of any other tips from
anyone.
You first
need to decide on what species you intend to keep, bearing in mind this will
likely change as you progress with the hobby! Dabblers will make do with a
shallow pond, whilst divers need a deeper pond, of course you can combine the
two! If it is geese you want to keep, then grass is far more important than
water, and a small pond just big enough for mating will do for most species.
One vital thing I have learned is
that overstocking leads to problems, keep your numbers low and you will find
you have better quality birds, and more time to enjoy them.
On this subject, remember that you
will need space to put any birds that you breed, this is often overlooked.
Obviously
what size garden you have available will dictate the overall size of the pond,
but I suggest making it as large as possible, even a few inches bigger is better than
nothing! It is impossible? To make a pond bigger once it is made. But do not
make it so big as to leave no room for the pond dwellers to have room to walk
about, relax, shelter and nest. A few feet of earth, grass or gravel planted
with grasses and shrubs will suit most ducks fine. I always try and have a 30cm
concrete border around the pond, it helps to clean the ducks feet before
entering the water, And can be hosed down when needed. The location of the pond
is perhaps dictated by your circumstances, next to the house where the ducks
can be seen is nice, but not always possible,
Are there any
over hanging trees etc, falling leaves can be a real nuisance in the autumn. Vermin
can also use trees as vantage points, and as a means of entering your garden.
As can walls, fences etc,
I would
seriously think about electric fencing if you live in area with a high vermin
count, both the four and two legged types wearing clothes!
I have found
that birds of prey have been no bother, so far! But I do not have buzzards in
my area yet.
Take into
account where the sun shines during the summer and winter months, will the pond
be in full sunshine all day at the height of summer? This can cause the water
to turn green in a day or so. Shade can be provided in these circumstances by
clever planting of shrubs etc, Some winter sun is very beneficial for both the
ducks well being and keeping the water ice free.
On the
subject of shelter, I would also try to avoid an exposed location, especially
facing cold East or North prevailing winds. But again, if you have no
alternative lots can be done to remedy the situation. Fencing, screens, shrubs
and grasses etc can all be used to good effect.
If you do
not have access to running water (and few do) then I would suggest looking into
some sort of filters. Ducks can be messy! And even if you just come up with
something to remove the heavy larger particles then it would be a great help.
Many koi carp filters may be suitable for the job. Also think about emptying
your pond; this will be necessary from time to time. A bottom drain is the
ideal answer, but not always practical. I have managed with large sump pumps
for many years.
I use
concrete and block work as my chosen building materials, but of course there are others to
consider, natural (if you are lucky enough to have plenty of water and a clay soil) liners, fiber glass, usually in conjunction with concrete, are just a few a few.
I prefer
concrete because I find it easy to work with (although heavy) reasonably priced
and VERY hard wearing. I think the most important work starts before the
concrete is laid, getting your levels right is top of the list, you must check,
and double check to make sure all is right. Any pipe work such as drains etc
must be worked out before hand and laid accordingly. Thin wooden pegs can be
used as depth gauges for the concrete, I aim for a thickness of approx 10cm, and
these are then hammered into the ground when work progresses, with the resulting
hole filled in of course. For deep ponds, I use 12cm concrete block work in
conjunction with concrete , Finally the pond is rendered with a layer of render
approx 3-4 cm thick, to which I add chopped fiber glass strands for added strength.
A better but more expensive way is to finish the pond with a fiber glass
coating; I recommend this is done by someone with experience in this field.
( more to
follow )
Landscaping/planting
Landscaping and planting areas around garden ponds can
provide ideal habitats for waterfowl to occupy and eventually breed in, of
course if you intend to breed a specific species the landscaping can be tailor
made for their needs. I have listed one or two pointers worth considering, but
would like to hear other ideas on the subject.
Shelter is perhaps number one reason for planting and
landscaping, whether to provide shelter from the sun, rain, wind or frost etc,
it is very important to think carefully about it. A few shrubs or rocks here
and there will not do.
Determine the direction of the prevailing winter winds, and
erect screens, low wind brakes etc to help relieve the wind chill factor, thick
hedging, or even thick clump type grasses, sedges or Rushes will also help. Even
a few strategically placed boulders will be enough for small ducks to find
shelter behind. Over hanging evergreen shrubs will help to keep small ponds
from freezing over. I find large leaved laurels excellent for this. I usually trim
lower branches from shrubs to create spaces that the waterfowl can use for
shelter, ideal for frost protection, I simply spread straw under these pockets
and the ducks feet stay frost free. It can be a little messy but is soon
cleared away come spring time.
The summer sun also
needs to be considered, ducks or pond water do not appreciate full sun all day!
Pond water will quickly resemble pea soup under these conditions. Again, screens
may help, perhaps temporary screens just for the summer months? Or good thick
shrubs, I prefer hardy evergreens like laurel, deciduous shrubs may cause
problems in the autumn when leaf shedding. Evergreens do loose leaves but
throughout the year, causing fewer problems.
Grass is most often the preferred ground cover in gardens,
but it can soon become a mud bath during winter months. Stocking levels will
have a lot do with this, as will the species of waterfowl kept. Grass looks
better if kept short and is easier to keep clean also, try and keep the final
cuts in the autumn a little longer than usual; this will help the grass survive
the wear and tear of paddling waterfowl during the winter. Also, if possible
leave a few areas to grow naturally in the spring and summer; it will provide
nesting cover and may supply insect life for hungry ducklings. I find it best
to remove overlong grass in the autumn; it soon starts to rot and becomes a
soggy mess in winter. Rushes are usually Ok left to provide cover. As are
larger type pampas grasses etc, these should be thinned out in early spring.
Geese of course will mow their own lawns as will wigeons.
But do not forget some species will soon strip bare all but the lushest vegetation.
If birds are kept free flying in flights do not forget to provide
perches, ringed teal, mandarins etc will certainly use them. Even in an open
garden, some higher perches and vantage points will be used by more agile
species.
One thing I have learned by trial and error is that plants
growing locally tend to do best, local grasses, rushes, sedges etc can all be
cultivated from seed, or small offsets , (it is illegal to dig them up) They may
even be bought from specialist nurseries. Although some cultivated plant
varieties can look more colourful etc, I always find local grows best. Having
said this I have a few favourites that I use regularly, including different
bamboo species. These prove to be unpalatable to most species and very
hardwearing. Planted in loose groups they provide good cover and shelter, and
some species are only up to approx 30cm or so in height. The taller varieties
are excellent for hiding poles etc in aviaries. Or act as a good screen to hide
fences or walls.
Access to the water should also be considered, surrounding a
pond with large rocks or boulders may look natural but waterfowl need easer access
than this. I do think waterfalls etc have their place and can look very natural,
and some species will climb them! Tree ducks are very adventurous! But there
must be easy access and exit to the water, some species are very clumsy when it
comes to leaving the water, and will struggle even the smallest slope or ledge.
I have found that Stifftails are among the worst in this respect.
Do not forget that room will have to made for nest boxes,
usually two boxes for each pair of birds, this can soon amount to lots of
boxes, and at approx 30cm sq this soon ads up to a fair amount of space. Boxes
can be disguised with careful planting though. Nothing looks worse than a pond
surrounded with large wooden boxes! Natural logs are a much better alternative
but also much harder to come across.