This is intended as a very basic care sheet, due to the wide variety of species
included within dabbling ducks it would be impossible to include every
requirement within one care sheet for each species. There are also pages on Divers/sea
ducks and Stifftails.
Please refer to the other pages that include ponds, planting schemes, nest
boxes, incubation, rearing ducklings etc for more info.
Before contemplating keeping ornamental waterfowl you should realise that they
are not domesticated in any way, they will not behave like any domesticated
duck, they will escape if they can and will find the smallest hole through
which to do so, their ducklings are very “wild " and behave as such. The
adults can not survive confined, say in a shed in winter for long periods.
Their health will deteriorate and disease sets in. They are truly wild ducks.
As the name suggests dabbling ducks "dabble", usually in shallow
water no more than a few inches deep, but some , such as mallards can reach
depths of approx 40cm ( 16" ) by "up ending " a common site
where mallards are seen feeding. Therefore the most important factor when
considering a pond for dabbling ducks is the water depth, too deep and some
species will be unable to feed properly. I would suggest a feeding depth of
from 2.5- 40 cm ( 1 to 16 " ), a gradual slope is ideal and allows the
ducks to enter the water easily and choose their own feeding depth. Of coarse
the pond can have deeper water as well especially if a mixed collection is
kept.
Most species of waterfowl are extremely hardy, but there are some notable
exceptions and I would advise checking before obtaining any birds. Most species
will withstand whatever the British winter will throw at them with only a few
shrubs and grasses for protection, and will refuse to enter a shed or box for
shelter. They do however need access to ice free water in severe weather, but
there are ways around this. Pond pumps help and even large air pumps, but If
the pond does freeze you must provide large dishes of water regularly
throughout the day.
Another important consideration is whether to get pinioned or un-pinioned
birds, the former will never be able to fly whilst the latter can be rendered
flightless by feather clipping one wing, this will last until the next moult
when the feathers are renewed, if you forget or time it wrong, your prized bird
could well fly off. Most people who keep birds in a garden setting keep
pinioned birds, if you decide to house some in a flight then buying un-pinioned
birds has many advantages and a few disadvantages. I find pinioned birds tend
to be calmer, less "flighty" and also less prone to hurting
themselves, Un-pinioned birds can injure themselves when hitting aviary wire or
net but I think seeing them flying up to a nest box for instance is well worth the
risks involved if you have a large flight available. Most species soon settle
and get used to you and other “friendly’s " and react accordingly. I
always keep my ducks in pairs, trios can work with some species but pairs are
less troublesome. Take care when selecting species that may interbreed and do
some research before hand, odd drakes can cause trouble in the breeding season.
I feed my ducks a diet of layers pellets, ( as used for chickens), these are
available at all times in a dish near the waters edge under cover, they quickly
deteriorate if wet. Every morning and evening they receive Wheat, a few
floating sea duck pellets and mixed budgie seed , I have been feeding the
budgie seed for over a year now and it is eaten by most species, This
mixture is thrown over the water, if put on the edge you will soon attract the
local wild bird population. To this I add cut maize in the winter, I used to
feed maintenance pellets in the winter but can honestly say I have noticed no
difference whatsoever in feeding the layers pellets all year round. I also feed
berries etc whenever available, blackberries; Rowan etc are always taken, as
are wild seeds such as Docken. Please see sheets on sea/diving ducks
for different feeds. I worm my stock twice a year with a proprietary
brand of wormer added to the layers pellets, but some people may say this is
not enough, my theory ( right or wrong ) is that too strict a worming routine
will leave the birds unable to withstand even a mild infestation. I worm them
in the autumn and then again in spring, before the onset of breeding.
All dabblers will take green food, and waterweed of any sorts will be eaten,
duckweed is a favourite but make sure you collect from a clean source. Most
individuals will also enjoy occasional live foods such as meal worms; these are
good for getting the birds close for health inspections. You will find that
waterfowl are rarely ill, and very hardy, I do put down straw in prolonged
frozen weather, it helps protect their feet from frostbite and it is the one
form of "help" they will accept, it tends to be a little messy but
soon cleared up when the weather improves. A good planting scheme of shrubs and
grasses will go a long way to protect against winter winds.