Socialiasation
Early socialisation of a puppy is essential to prevent behaviour problems such as aggression, nervousness, and stress and over excitability. The main socialisation period begins at around 6 weeks of age and last until around 16 weeks of age. This is also known as the fear period. It is the time when a puppy needs to be introduced to lots of experiences and people of all ages, and of different shapes and sizes, such as children, adults, elderly, people wearing glasses, who have beards, wear hats, use a walking stick ect. They should also be introduced to other dogs that are well socialised and friendly towards other dogs, and also other animals such as cats.
Due to vaccinations, which are important for a young puppy to build immunity to certain diseases, we can often find it difficult to socialise our puppies because of the period between each dose of vaccine. This can lead to them missing out on their essential time to take things in from the world around them and which they will encounter during their live.
However, there are things that you can do to help your puppy absorb as much as possible before their first outing on the lead.
You can
Invite as many people around to your home to meet your new addition (and I’m sure this won’t be difficult everyone loves puppies)! Children should be invited but well supervised to ensure that the puppy is learning the correct behaviour and doing the right thing.
Take your puppy along to other friend’s homes so that they experience different environments. It is fine to let them venture into your friends garden along as it is secure and no stray dog’s can get in.
Let them mix with other friends dog’s as long as they are vaccinated, well behaved, and friendly (you don’t want them picking up bad habits)! Invite your friend’s dog around to your home as well.
You can also carry your puppy to the end of the street and back (I’ve taken mine out in a shopping bag zipped up with their head poking out). Take them to pet shops that allow dogs in and carry them round. Both these are great because you will bump into people who will want to say hello to your puppy.
Take them on short journeys to get used to travelling in the car.
Ask your vet if they run puppy parties, most practices do now for puppies between their vaccinations to get them socialised and also they get used to the vets!
Play a cd with lots of different noises on such as thunder, fireworks, rain, sirens, there are some available. It is also a good idea to play it while the puppies are with their mother.
Once your puppy is allowed out take it to as many places as possible, walk through the village, past schools when children are coming and going, through the town centre, along busy roads (remember never over exercise a growing puppy).
If your puppy is nervous or timid than you will have to do things gradually until their confidence increases. If at any time your puppy does become spooked or is of a nervous disposition NEVER PRAISE THEM. This may sound harsh but the best thing to do is totally ignore the unwanted behaviour because by praising them you will reinforce the behaviour. Your puppy will think that the behaviour is acceptable and you want them to act this way because when they do they get a pleasant response from you. NEVER SMACK OR SHOUT at them either for the unwanted behaviour this can make them more nervous. If you are at all concerned about your puppy’s behaviour whether it be nerves or aggression then do not hesitate to contact someone such as a registered behaviourist for advice. The sooner you can sort out the problem whilst the pup is still young the better chance you have of correcting it. Nervousness can soon turn into fear aggression.
Always make your puppies experiences pleasant.
It is also important that when you are mixing children with puppies your own or other peoples they are well supervised. Puppies and children mix very well, provided each knows how to behave and interact with each other. Puppies need teaching how to interact with children so don’t expect them to know instantly until they have been taught. Often they tend to associate them with their littermates and can play ruff, they just need to be taught how to play properly. Children who are not used to owning a dog also need teaching like the puppy how to interact with them. They need to respect the puppy’s own time such as when they are sleeping and eating. It is not advisable to let your children disturb him whilst he his sleeping. Don’t allow them to play ruff with the puppy especially using their hands, the puppy will get carried away and think it’s acceptable to mouth them and other people, and could lead into the puppy becoming dominant towards them. Teach your puppy the behaviour you will expect from him when he his older, it may seem fun for them to be grabbing your arms, legs and hands and jumping up at you when they are cute, but do you want this when they are older! Sensible play is best instigated such as the use of toys.
A well-socialised puppy that is taught correctly should turn into a well-behaved adult.
By Nicola Green
Does Your Vizsla Have A Healthy Smile?
Have you ever wondered what the most common disease is in the dog? Research shows that periodontal disease is the most common, affecting over 85% of dogs. Most owners don’t realise that their dogs teeth need, as much care and attention as there own. Imaging how your teeth would look and how your mouth would feel if you never brushed them!
What is Periodontal Disease?
This is the proper name for inflammation of the tissues including the gums around the base of the teeth. The problem begins when dental plaque and tartar build up on your dog’s teeth. If caught early enough it can be reversed by a scale and polish, followed by routine home care. If not treated it can cause problems within the body such as liver and kidneys, heart problems such as endocarditis, and less commonly the lungs. This is due to the nasty bacteria within the oral cavity, which gets carried into the bloodstream. As well as tooth loss due to the bacteria and build up of tartar causing gum erosion it also causes unpleasant bad breath!
Prevention of Periodontal Disease
If your vizslas teeth and gums are quite healthy or they are only suffering from mild gingivitis then you can start and follow a daily routine of brushing. If not then they may have to undergo a scale and polish first because brushing will not remove the excess tartar alone. You can then start with a clean slate!
There are some excellent toothpaste on the market these days. The best ones are those that contain an enzymatic action. These work by containing naturally occurring enzymes that inhibit the bacteria responsible for plaque. Human toothpaste is not recommended, as this is harmful to dogs. Always make sure that you use a toothbrush and not just the paste alone as some toothpaste will claim there is no need for brushing, but they are not 100% affective without the brush.There are also some very good dental toys on the market as well. These not only help the teeth but also exercise the jaw. Some of them are even designed to put treats in and smear toothpaste on them, which occupies your dog too.
Dietary supplements can also be added to your dog’s food to help plaque sticking to your dog’s teeth. Also diet is important if your vizsla is fed on canned meat or meat and mixer biscuits, they are more likely to get a build up of tartar quicker than dogs fed a complete or natural diet due to the meat sticking to the teeth. There are also lots of different dental treats available to help with your dog’s oral hygiene.
NB. However, I must emphasize that the toys, treats and dietary supplements are only aids and will not work alone without brushing.
Step-by-Step Guide to Brushing.
Brushing your pets teeth must be a procedure that is pleasant not only for your dog but for you. It is best to choose a time when you can enjoy a few minutes of relaxed contact with them. Never choose a time when you are rushed. Most dogs accept having their teeth brushed and will even enjoy it. One of my own dogs loves it that much that I have to watch him when I am doing the others because he tries to pinch the toothpaste! They must be introduced to the procedure in a calm and patient way.
The best way is as follows:
Gently stroke around your dogs cheeks with your finger only, and slowly lift the lip for about 30 seconds. Plenty of praise and a titbit session over.
Repeat the above stage but this time have a small amount of toothpaste on your fingertip and let your dog taste it.
Repeat as above but this time gently run your finger and a small amount of toothpaste over your dog’s teeth for about 30-45seconds. Again lots of praise and a titbit.
Repeat the above but this time if all is going well gently introduce the toothbrush with a small amount of toothpaste for about 30 seconds. Lots of praise and a titbit.
Repeat the above but gradually increase the length of time. Depending on how your vizsla takes to this then you should be aiming at spending at least one minute on each side of the mouth using a circular action.
Remember be patient, always praise, reward, make it fun.
CRUCIATE LIGAMENT DISEASE
The cruciate ligaments are situated in the stifle joint and they are paired (cranial and caudal cruciate ligaments), they play a major role in supporting the knee joint and it’s movement. They both arise from the femur and insert on the tibia. Rupture of the cranial cruciate ligament is one of the commonest causes of hindlimb lameness in the dog. When the cruciate ligament ruptures it is normally complete although on occasions partial rupture can occur. Partial rupture is where just one of the bands that make up the ligament as torn.
How Does The Cruciate Ligament Become Damaged?
One of the most common reasons for damage to this ligament is due to tearing after a traumatic episode. It can also happen if a dog jumps and lands awkwardly or if they have turned sharply. Sometimes a dog can just be running along and the ligament can break without any obvious jarring having occurred (why this happens has not been proven). There are also other factors, which can result into a cruciate rupture such as middle-aged dogs that are overweight and put too much strain on the stifle joint and surrounding ligaments. Some dogs may also have a strange anatomy to their knee joint putting extra strain on this ligament or it may be due to alterations in blood supply to the ligament at different angles of flexion of the joint. Occasionally cranial cruciate rupture can also be seen in conjunction with other joint disease such as patella luxation (slipping of the kneecap), inflammatory joint disease and medial meniscal pathology (the menisci are two fibrocartligenous structures found on top of the tibia which allows smooth movement of the joint and as a cushioning effect).
What are the symptoms of a ruptured cruciate ligament?
The symptom is usually acute onset of lameness initially non-weight bearing but toe touching can start a few days afterwards. The limb can improve with time (often when partial rupture as occurred), due to scar tissue forming around the ligament and thickening. There will be fairly rapid muscle wastage of the hindlimb. Eventually this will result in the reduction of the joint and may appear that the dog is stiff after exercise or when it has been laid down for a while. More often than not in most cases the lameness remains even with strong pain relief.
What is the treatment of a cruciate rupture?
There are two forms of treatment one is conservative and the other surgical.
Conservative treatment – this involves strict rest for 6-8 weeks with the dog been confined to one room avoiding slippery floors. The dog must not jump onto surfaces such as the couch and lead control is recommended even when going out into the garden to relief themselves. After 6 – 8 weeks gradual lead exercise can begin but only short distances to start with along with monitored hydrotherapy sessions. Pain relief is given as required. However this is only around 85% successful and is not recommended to dogs over 10kg. Eventually even in successful cases surgery is required in later life due to the deterioration of the joint and meniscal damage.
Surgical Treatment – this is the best form of treatment especially in dogs weighing over 10kg. There are several techniques involved and each vet will have their preferred method. One method is to form a false ligament using an artificial substitute either nylon suture material or tissue grafted from the dog. Both of these methods are acceptable, and result in equal success rates. There is also another method called TPLO (tibial plateau levelling osteotomy), this is to correct abnormal posture in the knee joint which may be responsible for strain on the cruciate ligament. This is usually done by an orthopaedic specialist and involves breaking the tibia and plating it back together. After all surgery strict rest is recommended for 2 weeks, and then gradual lead exercise accompanied with monitored hydrotherapy, and pain relief.
With any of the above procedures there is still likely to be arthritis in later life and also there is a 50% chance of the other leg rupturing. The vet will also take x-rays of the stifle joints to see if there is any arthritis or abnormalities of the joint before performing surgery.
First Aid Kit
This should be kept in your car at all times or if venturing out on a long walk should be lightweight and easy to carry. A lightweight container, which is, waterproof such, as a large sponge bag or a plastic freezer box with an airtight lid is both cheap and effective solutions.
The first aid kit should contain the following:
Gauze sterile dressing or non-adherent padding, which can be applied directly onto the skin.
Cotton wool.
Conforming bandages. Which are very good to induce pressure onto a bleeding wound to reduce haemorrhage. And are easy to apply.
Adhesive tape.
Elastoplast on a roll and also cut into strips so they can be applied onto small nicks.
Pair of scissors, curved blunt ones are the best.
A pair of tweezers.
Antiseptic cream and wash to cleanse wounds. Hibiscrub diluted is a very good solution to use.
Wasp and Bee Stings
Nine times out of ten these stings often occur on the face, lips and feet. They will not cause serious problems unless the sting goes into the mouth; bloodstream or your dog is allergic to them.
Wasps tend not to leave their sting but bees invariably do. If this is the case and you can see the sting then it is best to be removed. By using a pair of tweezers grasp the sting by the base where it enters the skin. DO NOT grab it round the sac, as this will cause it to release more poisons and make the situation worse. The area where the animal has been stung will become swollen, irritated and painful. You can bathe the area using bicarbonate soda (one dessert spoon to a pint of water) for a bee sting. And diluted vinegar for a wasp sting. These solutions should be applied using cotton wool or gauze. If however the sting is in the mouth especially near the larynx then veterinary treatment should be sought immediately. Stings in the mouth can often lead to the airway becoming blocked. It is also best not to bathe the sting if it is around the eye. Also if your pet is showing signs of depression then it is best to seek out veterinary treatment as this is a sign of an anaphylactic reaction (shock) and in severe cases can lead to collapse. Piriton (ant-histamine) tablets are also very useful, one to two tablets can be given but again if unsure of the dosage ask your vet. You can also apply a cold compress such as frozen vegetables ect to the area to reduce the swelling.
Cuts and Grazes
Abrasions – known as grazes are only superficial and the bleeding is not serious. They can however be very painful and cause swelling. There is no need to dress them but should be cleaned using an antiseptic wash such as diluted hibiscrub. If it is an area where the dog is licking then you should prevent it from doing so, as this will prevent the wound from healing. In some cases the wound may warrant antibiotics and if severely painful anti-inflammatory.
Punctures – these are small deep wounds that cause little bleeding and close very quickly. But they are often contaminated especially if dirt and hairs get into them. They should be washed using an antiseptic solution and it is best to give your dog a course of antibiotics.
Incisions – these can be of any size, usually deep and bleed freely. They tend to gape with clean neat edges unless small. Glass, and sharp objects can cause them. Damage can easily include deeper tissue, tendons and nerves, so a vet should check all. They normally require stitching and especially if a tendon is involved to prevent further problems.
Lacerations- these again vary in size. They may be deep but often little bleeding due to the wound edges been jaggered. The wound gapes and they are often contaminated. Most will need stitching and it is best to give your dog a course of antibiotics and painkillers. They are normally caused by dogfights, road accidents and barbed wire.
First Aid Procedures
Legs and Pads
Clean the wound with antiseptic solution (diluted hibiscrub). Try and get as much dirt and hair out as possible. However if the wound is bleeding severely then pressure needs to be applied as soon as possible. A tourniquet may need to be applied (see tourniquet).
If the wound is not gaping too much you can apply small strips of elastoplast to try and pull the wound together.
Dry the wound and apply a gauze swab or non-adherent pad to the wound. Cotton wool can be applied onto the gauze swab to soak up bleeding.
Using a conformable bandage wrap it around the limb, including the foot so not to cut off any blood supply, which can cause the foot to swell. You can apply the bandage fairly tightly to apply pressure and try and stop the bleeding. Pressure bandages should not be left on for no more than 12-24hrs. And if the wound is bleeding severely then veterinary treatment should be sought immediately.
When bandaging always start from the foot and work your way up the limb.
Chest
It is difficult to apply a dressing to the chest area. Again wash the wound using an antiseptic solution. If the wound is bleeding severely use a gauze swab or clean cloth to apply digital pressure to the wound. A cotton shirt can be wrapped around the area.
Head
It is best not to apply a bandage to the head area if you are not trained, because you could apply it to tight. Elastoplast strips can be used on ear tips and you can also apply digital pressure. Ears bleed profusely even the smallest of nicks. You can clean any wounds on the head and face using an antiseptic solution (avoid the eyes). If there are any foreign bodies in the eyes then care should be taken when removing things such as grass seeds ect. You can use a damp cotton bud to get these out. But anything that is actually puncturing the eye should be left to prevent further damage. Any foreign body whether you have removed it or not should really be checked by the vet to ensure it as not scratched the eye. If the eye as been scratched and left untreated it could lead to ulcers and further damage. If the eyeball is prolapsed then you should try and keep it moist, by flushing it with water, use a soaked piece of cotton wool and without touching the eye squeeze the water onto it, until you get to the veterinary surgery.
Tail
If the wound is bleeding severely than a tourniquet can be applied (see tourniquet). Wash the wound with antiseptic solution. Elastoplast strips can be applied to the tip of the tail and also a bandage can be applied. You will need to include all the tail as with a leg so not to cut off any blood supply. Start from the tip of the tail and work your way upwards when bandaging. Again tails are like ears and can bleed profusely. They often take long to heal due to them wagging them so much causing the scab to be knocked off. You can apply a light dressing while it heals to protect it or even tubing.
Tourniquets
These can be used to stop severe haemorrhage to limbs and the tail. The tourniquet should be applied above the site of the wound. You can use a piece of cloth, or even your dog lead. They should be tied tightly if necessary, insert a twig or pen through the knot and twist it to tighten it further. They should not be left on for no more than 15 minutes. Slowly slacken off the tourniquet and, if the bleeding starts again you can reapply pressure after one minute. Obviously veterinary treatment should be sought as soon as possible.
By Nicola Green V.N.
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