Vike's Complete Guide to Building a Spyder Pump

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT BUILDING A SPYDER PUMP

Design of the Pump Marker

  In this picture, the bolt is enclosed completely by the body. (marker by vikingshadow of Spyder Online Comunity SOC) 

As this picture shows, the body of this marker is completely closed in the back - meaning the bolt can't be seen through the gun.  With this particular marker there was a side cocking pin, but the slot was cut for the striker, not the bolt.  (The bolt rests in the top tube, while the striker is in the bottom tube.)

In the past, lots of people have modified these types of bodies  - cutting the back half of the top tube off to expose the bolt, cutting windows in the tubes, etc.  It's usually done for looks, but has another benefit in that it does lighten the marker up a bit.  Some people like this since these markers tend to weigh a bit more than the super light markers being produced these days.  The only issue with cuts like this is if too much of the body is cut off, an area that needs to be sealed by an oring may be intruded on and cause the marker to not work properly.  Caution and multiple measurements are definitely required when attempting this modification.

  In this example, the body of the gun has been cut to expose the bolt. This makes connecting the pump handle quite easy. (marker by flatacid of PBNation) 

However, for this part of the modification some people don't actually want to "mid-block" or "half-block", which is the term for cutting the back of the top tube away to expose, and lighten, the marker.  It would make it easier to attach the pump rod, but to keep the "old school" look of the marker, that's just not an option.  So, the question is - do you want to attach the pump handle on the side of the gun, or take the pump rod to the back of the gun, build a plate and run a cocking rod to the back of the bolt? 

             In this example, a holewas drilled through the top tube back cap.  A cocking rod was inserted into the hole then attached to the back of the bolt.  A "back block" was fabricated, then both the cocking rod and pump rod were attached to the block so that when pumped back, the bolt moves back as well.(marker by jasonADF from PBNation)

Since I chose to cut a slot in the top tube of my Sonix and maintain the "old school" look to the marker, this next part will detail how to go about doing that.

Milling a slot in the marker body

NOTE:  When using tools, be sure to follow ALL safety procedures.  If you are a minor, be sure to get parent permission first and have parental supervision.  Never leave equipment on and unattended, and be aware that while drill bits are very tough, they do tend to shatter when drilling on other metals.  Be sure to wear proper safety goggles and go slowly.

Tools required:

 

  • Fine point Sharpie
  • Straight edge (ruler or anything straight)
  • 2 clamps, preferably with rubber or plastic covers on the teeth
  • about an 8” block of 2 X 4
  • Drill press
  • Several SHARP drill bits
  • table vice
  • Small file kit
  • 2 coins (preferably quarters, but anything will work such as washers, cardboard, etc.)
  • various sizes of sandpaper (600 grit, 800 grit and 1000 grit)

 

You can use an electric handheld drill, but I don’t recommend it.  Same for a dremel.  For this I HIGHLY recommend using a drill press.  I tried using a dremel tool, but it was hard to control and very choppy.  With the drill press, you can drill a series of holes from smaller to larger until all the material is removed.  Along with the drill press, you should use a cut piece of 2 X 4 clamped to the base as a guide to make sure the body is in the exact position and the holes are in a straight line.

 

Drill press is set up with block to help stabilize the body as you drill.  It will also help you keep everything straight.