Vike's Complete Guide to Building a Spyder Pump


Choosing and Attaching the Pump Kit

A lot of builders like to actually make a pump kit for their gun.  It makes it more "theirs" or they just don't have the money to get a kit.  Personally, I like the kit because it's just a minor component that plays an important role in the entire modification.

Since I bought my kit, I'm not going to get into how to make your own pump handle and rod.  Since you've already decided how you're going to attach the pump to the gun, you've probably already decided on if you're buying or building your own kit and have your own ideas on the creation of that.

Now, if you're like me and choose to spend a bit of money on a kit, then there are options for you.  There are several pump kits on the market and it's up to you to decide which one you like best.  You have to realize each one has a different "feel" to it, as well as different sizes of pump handles, different weights, different colors, so on and so forth.  One thing they all have in common is that each one may and will require you to modify it a bit to actually attach it to your Spyder body. 

Note - This page is more of a narrative than a how to.  I've found that in these instances, I can only tell you what I did, and a few steps - the rest you have to just get in and do to figure it out as each and every gun is different.

I got lucky!

As I was searching several online stores and forums, I came across some information that mentioned the Trilogy Pump Kit from PMP Industries would screw into the LPC port of the Vertical Adapter.  I found a guy on PBNation who had actually managed to put one on a Viewloader gun, and since the Viewloader is a clone of a Spyder, I got to thinking it might fit my Spyder.  So I talked to PMP Industries customer service department but they didn't know anything about this either, so I thought, "Why not?" and ordered it. 

  You can see the main pump guide rod is ready to be screwed into the front part of the vertical adapter.  It already has the teflon and the orings on it to seal the leak I found.  Once I hand tightened it, I used an Allen wrench in the hole near the front of the rod to tighten it even further. 

When it came in, I found that the main pump handle does in fact screw right into the Vertical Adapter via the LPC port.  That made it easier since I didn't have to modify the kit to make it attach to the marker.  However, it did leak when I aired it up, but a little teflon tape on the threads and an oring fixed that.  When I aired it up again, I was pleased it didn't leak - and hasn't since then.

Now I just needed to attach the pump rod to the bolt somehow.

Bending the pump rod to reach the bolt

The pump rod is steel, so it's really not that hard to bend at the angle you need.  All you really need for this are a:

  • tabletop vice
  • black sharpie
  • pair pliers
  • hammer
  • hack saw

To bend the rod, mark the precise area where your bend should occur clearly with the sharpie on the opposite side to the direction you want to bend.  This will help you remember where which way to bend!  

Hint:  if you place the mark in line with the top of the vice, you can easily bend it right at that location. 

Start by slowly bending the rod either towards or away from you (in the direction you previously determined.)  As you bend the rod, beat the rod with the hammer as close to the vice as you can.  This will give you the angle right where you want it and not in some random area inches away.   

Be careful!  Once you bend the rod in this manner, it's VERY difficult to get the rod straight again if you mess up.  So, measure twice, check it again, mark it, check it again, then slowly move forward. 

One last warning - a couple of the angles were really tricky since it was difficult to get the rod in the vice correctly to accomadate that particular bend.  Just move it around and don't be afraid to try different angles!

Finally, save any cuts for when you are totally finished with the bending.  Once you cut it off, you can't put it back on!  I was rather generous with my cut as well, just in case.

On to the attaching the pump rod

The only thing I had left to do once I attached the main guide rod to the LPC was to attach the pump rod that came with the kit to my bolt.  Remember, though, that I had to mill my Sonix body to allow the rod to connect to the bolt on the side.  (This is discussed on another page.)  The rod that came with the kit was designed to be used with the Trilogy Autococker conversion kit, so I had to bend it quite a bit.  First of all, it rubbed against the VA so I had to bend it to avoid that issue. 

Here's a picture of that bend.  The rod is screwed into the back of the delrin handle to show the extent of the bend...

Then, since that bend made the rod stick out away from the marker,  I had to bend it back again so that it had a straight shot on the way back to the bolt. 

After this, I had a series of bends to make to be able to reach the bolt.  First, I had to bend it pretty close to 90 degrees straight up to the level of the back of the bolt as it was forward in the breech.  This allowed for the handle to push the bolt backwards.

The handle installed in the the bolt as the bolt is in the "closed position".  This gave the pump handle room to move the bolt into the "open position".


This is the end of the pump rod that actually fits into the back of the bolt.  you can see I had to bend it down at about a 90 degree angle, then again at a right angle to that.

As you can see, the bend that I gave the rod near the pump handle, along with the two bends at the other end give the rod just enough tension to tightly hold the rod in place without any fasteners.  I left a bit more than I actually needed on the end of the rod so that the pressure would remain constant. 

Modifying the bolt to accept the pump rod

 On my bolt there is a place where a grub screw tightens down on the bolt pin which links the bolt and the striker together.  However, it's on the side and in the exact place I needed to attach the pump rod.  Another stroke of luck!  

I found a bit that was a little smaller than the original hole using the original hole as a guide, drilled a hole through the other side of the bolt, then using a tap to allow me to use the grub screw on the opposite side.  That took care of the pin issue.  Now, I could focus on the pump rod. 

Finally I drilled the original grub screw hole out to 3/8" so that the pump rod would fit in there.  I had to grind the end of the rod down a bit to smooth it out and make it fit a bit better - still tightly, but not so tight I couldn't remove it easily

Attaching the pump kit

Finally, after all the bending and twisting and cutting was completed, I was ready to attach the kit.  I had found that while testing the fit, the spring that was sent with the kit was not adequate to return the pump to it's closed position.  I found an old Spyder spring kit and, using the lightest spring, cut it down then stretched it so that it would return on it's own, but the pump stroke remained smooth.  Here is a picture of the spring being installed in the pump handle.

  The last thing to do was test it.  I attached the entire pump assembly to the marker and pumped it a few times.  It worked perfectly!  Here you can see the completed assembly of the pump kit - attached to the LPC port of the VA, and the rod attached to the bolt.