ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS
    CHAMPION AKC, DNA, TDI, CGC, ADOA, APDT-LIFE TIME HEALTH & 2 YR TEMPERAMENT GUARANTEES


OUR BREEDING PHILOSOPHY
 
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS
NAVIGATION
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS HOME
PLEASE SIGN-GUEST BOOK!!
Ch. Luca X Izzy's pups
CH. LUCA ON FARM ;)
BREAKING NEWS ARISTOCRAT BUL
ABOUT ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFF
OUR BREEDING PHILOSOPHY
PUP PICS FROM PREV. LITT
PUPPY PEOPLE PIC SLIDESH
PUPPY PEOPLE PICS!
OUR PUPPY APPLICATION
LETTERS FROM MY PUPPY PEOPLE
MEET OUR NEW PUPPIES!
STUD SERV. AVAILABLE
LUCA BRAHMA-BULL. STUD
TEARLOCH ONYX-BULL
AKC CHAMPION PEDIGREES
COST: YOU CAN BUY LOVE...
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFF PUPPY
THINGS TO GET YOUR NEW PUP
PREPARE FOR YOUR NEW PUP
VetzPets Stuff For BIG Dogs!
BIG DOG STUFF PICS VETZP
IZZY WORKING 2
OUR DOG & PUPPY PICS!
ALL OUR PIC ALBUMS FLICKR
MEET OUR DOGS!
DHARMA'S PAGE
VIDEOS OF OUR DOGS & PUP
OUR VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE
IZZY'S PUPS PLAYING 7 WK
RUBY RAG-DOLL 2
RUBY RAG-DOLL 3
DHARMA PIC SLIDE SHOW
BIG DOG LOVERS GROUP
TOYS...YOU NEED THEM!!!!
BULLY FIRST AID
HEALTH TIPS & ALERTS FOR YOU
LIST OF UNSAFE CHEWS
K-9 BEHAVIORAL CONSULTS
GROOMING TIPS-KEEPING YOUR B
RECOMMENDED BULLY READING
HELP BULLMASTIFF RESCUE!!!!
BRINDLING THE GENETICS
KWAME AT WESTMINSTER 05 & 06
TEARLOCH'S SIRE CH. BLAZINS
MY SPACE DEXT-ORR BULLMASTIF
TOUGH-SAFE STUFF FOR BIG DOG
TRAINING TIPS WITH VIDEO
Tealoch's G-father pedig
Sire's M.G.Father pedigr
sire's M.G.Mother Pedigr
Tearloch G.Mother Pedigr
My Infodog Dext-Orr's
OUR DOGSTER PAGES & VIDEO
Calendar
bullmastiff video
Bully Poem by Suzan
AKC Bullmastiff Standard
AKC Canine Good Citizen
Therapy Dogs Int.
BULLIES BEST THERAPY DOG
AKC Kids Corner
Pets For Life Video
Stop Puppy Mills!!!!
Link to Logan
Rescue Information & why
PEDIGREE LOOK UP AM/UK
Sebasticook Animal Clini
ARISTOCRAT AKC DNA STUDS FOR
BULLMASTIFF STANDARD
SELECT FOR 1 GEN TRAIT..
Forums
LUCA COMES HOME!!! :)
Videos
INFO HIP DYSPLASIA






    
BREEDING BETTER DOGS!
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS-BREEDING BETTER DOGS!

 

We are located in a small rustic town in the beautiful state of Maine just North of L.L. Beans in Freeport Maine.! We are owned and operated by a licensed veterinarian and a vet. tech., trainer/behaviorist and I keep up to date in continuing education on canine reproduction as well as behavior, attending the AVMA Veterinary conferences yearly. We are very proud of our line, we've bred Bullmastiffs that have lived well into their teens (our oldest was 16, the youngest dog we ever lost was 14 yrs), I know when asked most breeders say we breed to improve the breed or improve the breed standard but the standard is the standard & you can look it up on the AKC web site-any dog that deviates from the standard would not be considered show quality but that doesn't mean that they won't make wonderful pets, there are more serious deviations from the standard that may cause major health issues, I always try to get photos of old dogs from the breeders I buy puppies from, when you can see pictures of old family members of your puppy or puppy to be then that's your best indication that your puppy will live a long, and happy & healthy life, of course there are a lot of environmental factors that can shorten a dog's life span but starting with good genetics is your best bet! No one can guarantee your puppy is going to be healthy & live well into their teens just because their family members did no more than humans that both came from a long line of healthy people could guarantee that their children will be healthy & live a very long life-that's why we offer a very good health guarantee, I love these puppies & spend every possible minuet with them for the 8-9  wonderful weeks that I have to raise & start training them, I teach them trust first & foremost that is why I am so very picky about who gets one of my babies, I whole heartedly believe that since I brought these pups into the world I am responsible for them for their life time, and I will stand behind that, I am available almost 24/7 to answer any & all questions and their are NO stupid questions! I want & enjoy being involved in the pups lives, seeing them grow up, which leads me to the reason I decided to start breeding so many years ago, because breeding is not for the weak of heart, it's a 24/7 job, without sleep, I watch them like a hawk & have video monitors in their nursery. You can read more about how we raise our babies on the puppy page.

.

 

We don't breed to improve the breed standard but to maintain the standard, in other words, what these dogs were originally bred for, they were bred to be athletic, intelligent, gentle & loving with family & friends, fantastic with kids of all ages (but they are big dogs so with very small children they should always be supervised because of the "knock down factor" as I call it)! They can distinguish the difference between a real threat & a non threat (unlike dogs that were bred for guard or attack), they are very perceptive dogs and would lay their lives down for you should one of their family ever be threatened without hesitation, they are the most devoted breed of dog I have ever seen, and would not and could not live with another breed, I am head over heals in love with Bullmastiffs which is probably pretty obvious since I live with 8 of them, and actually own 11 (3 of them live with my adult children & grandson) they have the most expressive faces, you can read what they are thinking just by looking at their face! They are so in tuned to their families emotions they know if you had a bad day, if your sick or upset about something & will stay by your side to give you extra love & attention, I have a neurological/muscular condition that causes chronic pain and my dogs know when I'm having a bad day & will not only stay beside me they will actually try to cheer me up, they are always making me laugh with their antics! Since I was diagnosed 9 years ago, I had a hard time adjusting (type A personality), if it weren't for my dogs I don't think I would have made it through it all, I owe them so much, so much more than I could ever pay them back, that is why I try to give as much of my time, money & knowledge to other Bullmastiffs & their owners, doing rescue work, free consultation with people all over the world, to try to help as many of these wonderful dogs as I possibly can. The best way I can possibly attempt to put into words how loving & devoted a Bullmastiff is (and if you've never lived with one you'll only know what I'm talking about until after you do) but other dogs will come to you for attention whereas a Bullmastiff will come to you to give YOU attention!

 

So the reason I breed is to not only maintain the integrity of the standard for this wonderful breed, by breeding healthy, intelligent (I can't help it if their too smart ), athletic, loving, devoted, and long lived Bullmastiff, but mostly to share the love & the joy these dogs have brought to my life with others and I've met so many wonderful people along the way because of the dogs! My puppy people are not only wonderful people I consider them family, I just love to hear stories & get pictures from my puppy people, we even have litter reunions when possible!! We will only breed a bitch once a year (or less). I will do research on a line for up to a year or more before deciding on just the right puppy to buy to mix with my line (I will not in-breed), and even after doing all that research it doesn't always work out, and after spending several thousands ++ dollars on a dog that you researched, waited for, trained & fell in love with & knew that they would make a perfect blend with your line only to find out that their hips weren’t good enough to breed, they may have possibly passed OFA, but my husband is far tougher on hips/elbows than OFA, so if he says no then as much as it hurts I will neuter or spay them, I never give a dog away because they can't breed anymore unless it's to one of my kids, they must stay in the family always and be part of the family, always! The only adult dogs I would find homes for would be one of my rescues.

I will always take a puppy back no matter what.

 

A good breeder does NOT breed to make money, I spend so much money on the dogs I loose money and work nights to help support them, but that is far from the issue, it's not a business, breeding should never be a business, it's love, pure & unconditional, I am "dog poor" as I call it, all the time, I drive a 12 yr old car, I never buy anything much for myself, but my dogs have more toys than most human children, are fed the best food, I have a huge back yard made into a big play ground for them, and I try to integrate my dogs wonderful personalities into our community as much as possibly by having them do work as Therapy dogs, and we do lectures at the schools to teach children safety around dogs (which the dogs LOVE!) All the kids in the town know all my dogs’ names, only a few of them know my name

 

I spend thousands on  the best possible pups I can find that will blend with my line, training, food, toys, the nursery is painted with murals for visual stimulation, the pups listen to classical music, they listen to sound effects & the nursery is temperature controlled, and has full spectrum sun lamps, the nursery is centrally located in the house so once they are 3 weeks & older they are visited by all the other dogs, my girls don't care in the least if the rest of the pack comes to visit the kids, they are so non-aggressive-they would be described as the opposite of aggressive! Their tails wag non-stop, and are the most loving bunch of dogs with each other too-I have videos of various litters of puppies, their births, all of the dogs playing in the back yard, the pups playing outside when they are old enough, I have training videos I've made myself to give to my puppy people of easy, gentle, positive training tips so easy you can teach a puppy 8 weeks old to sit, lay down, and a lot more, I lay a great foundation for the pups learning, and they are almost house broken already, crate trained, and used to being handled everywhere and all the time, they are like rag dolls in your arms because, like I said before, they have learned to trust people, puppies aren't born this way. The first thing I hear from all of my puppy people is how well they did at their first vet visit & the crowd they attracted, being in the veterinary business we know how difficult it is for a dog that doesn't like going to the vets & it becomes a viscous cycle, and it makes it hard on the owners, hard on the dogs & very difficult for their doctors to be able to treat them properly, that is one of the reasons I make sure my pups don't care if their toes are touched they are touched all over their bodies, and will stand perfectly for it, I also make sure they will lay on their back for me, allowing their people to be the dominant, it again also shows trust to expose their bellies.

 

My goal in breeding is to keep my line going forever, for my old ones who will always live within my heart forever, and still can see the same qualities they had in their great, great, great, great grand-pups! The same traits, the same personalities, it's my way of having them live on forever, not only in my heart but in their pups, grand pups, and great x...grand-pups! I don't think I could get over loosing them if I didn't have their offspring. They are their legacy.

 

We do every health screening test available before breeding & will only breed dogs (as I mentioned before that come from a line of long lived healthy dogs), I stand behind my pups for life, and I will help their new family with anything they need, and try to give them as much information as possible in their puppy kits to get them off to a great start.

 

I deliver each & every one of the puppies myself, the nursery at whelping time is a birthing room, with classical music in the background, my girls get a IV catheter put in so they can get Lactated Ringer's (fluids to give them more energy during the birthing process) I freeze Pedialyte ice cubes for them, and they get treated better than most human women in a hospital! I am well trained as a canine midwife and surgical tech. should they need a c-section. They are born in a temperature controlled nursery with closed circuit TV (in the rare event that I am not already in the nursery, I can watch the puppies on the monitors throughout the house). The pups have plenty of visual stimulation to increase brain function and learning capability. They are handled constantly from the time they are born. They are breast fed by their mother and are supplemented with the bottle. Mother's milk contains antibodies against all the K-9 diseases that she has been vaccinated against. Feeding puppy replacement formula keeps the litter uniform in size and strength (there are no "runts"). The puppies are very, very well socialized. I spend an incredible amount of time introducing the puppies to as many people, other animals, and situations as possible so they are very confident, happy, lovable puppies that adjust to their new homes very quickly! They are raised in our home and very used to home noises, like the TV, vacuum, doorbells, etc. They have been handled and played with by lots of children. Most of the puppies I sell go to homes with children because Bullmastiffs love kids so much and are exceptional dogs with kids! I play a CD with over 900 different sound effects on it so these pups will not run away during a thunderstorm!!! They are very stable, trustworthy, and naturally protective of their families and property. We stand behind our puppies for life! We are always happy to answer any questions regarding the Bullmastiff breed, training, socialization, medical, and behavioral questions you might have. The pups aren't the least bit shy and will love everyone they see, in fact I would really wonder about someone my dogs didn't like! They have begun wearing collars, leash training and crate training before they leave. They will be very used to being handled, groomed, and having their nails clipped. These puppies have been outside, allowed to play in the house with supervision, been around other people, other dogs, lots of kids, and cats.

 

 

The puppies are guaranteed against any genetic disease and we also guarantee our puppy's temperaments! You will not find a dog with a better personality anywhere! 

 

We screen the prospective homes that our puppies go to very carefully, we just want to make sure our babies will continue to be loved and spoiled and a cherished member of their new families!

The pups will go home with their individual AKC registration papers, an extensive AKC certified pedigree (15+ generations!). Their puppy kit will also contain a compact disk filled with letters of recommendation, pictures of the puppies since they were born to the time you take them home, pics of previous litters, pictures of their doggy relatives, and lots more. There is plenty of information in the puppy kit regarding the Bullmastiff breed and its history, general & crate training info, a list of stuff to get before your puppy comes home, info. on puppy proofing your home, go home info, etc, (and of course we will always answer any questions you might have). They will have health certificates, been examined by a licensed veterinarian, up to date on ALL their vaccinations, wormed, and have their microchip ID's implanted. The microchip ID's we use are Home Again brand (it is the most expensive but it's the best & that's all we ever use when are dogs are involved,  it also has an 800 # 24/7 days a week data base is run through The American Kennel Club (AKC). There is a form that you fill out with all your information and send to AKC to have in their data base. The microchips are the best form of permanent identification as far as we are concerned. They are basically a dog tag that they can never loose and can hold loads more information than a standard dog tag. The microchips are also proof positive that this dog belongs to you! They will have their medical/vaccination/worming and examination records. Heart worm and flea/tick preventative. What food and vitamins they have been on, samples, and their feeding schedule. (We always free feed our dogs!)

 

These pups come from a line of Bullmastiffs that have a very long life span!

They’re parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents & other relatives are on the premises. Their great-great grandfather just past away at just a couple weeks shy of 16 yrs. old!

 

Bullmastiffs are not one of the more common breeds...which is a good thing! This means the breed hasn't been ruined by everyone and their brother breeding them just to make a buck; they don't care what they breed in regards to temperaments and medical problems they get a male & a female & think that's all their is to it, so the more popular breeds become, they unfortunately have a lot of genetic health problems, and temperament problems. For the most part, most Bullmastiff breeders are loyal to the breed and will do the best job they can breeding, of course there are always exceptions, stay away from buying puppies in pet stores where they get these poor babies from puppy mills (as much as you would like to "rescue" one of these poor things, you will only be supporting these horrible puppy mills, and you may also be setting yourself up for nothing but heartache with one of these puppies because they are frequently riddled with health problems and you get NO support at all!)

When you buy a puppy you want to be able to see and meet if possible, at least the parents of the puppy, be able to ask the breeder any questions, a good breeder could talk about their dogs all day! You want to be able to see where the puppies are born & raised if possible (meaning sometimes distance is an issue and it's not always feasible to be able to do this, but at least ask for pictures!)


Make sure there is a contract that is generated specifically to protect the puppy/dog & you the buyer-the breeder should NOT benefit from the contract in any other way than protecting their babies. 

Make sure there are guarantees on health and if possible temperament.

Make sure the puppies are up to date on their vaccinations and that they were given by a licensed veterinarian who can also examine each puppy.

 

My puppies are not sold with stipulations like showing them to their championship, breeding them (definitely not), naming them after our kennel name, or co-ownerships, if you pass my screening, then the way I look at it, the puppy is yours, if you pass my screening then I trust you will follow the contract in regard to training them, taking proper care of them, spending time with them & treating them like a member of the family, they are only to be house dogs.

 

The only thing I ask is that you keep in touch from time to time to let me know how they are doing, ask me any questions at any time about anything! And there is no way you can send me too many pictures, it makes my day every time I get pictures of my babies, too see how happy they are & how happy their people are and how much joy they have brought to the lives of their people, to me that is what it's all about!

 

If the puppy is said to be sold with "papers" make sure they are AKC registration applications often times they are hand written pedigrees that you get as the so called "papers" or they are registered through the CGC (not the Canadian Kennel Club, they are the same as the AKC) it's the Continental Kennel Club, basically all you have to do is show a picture of a dog to get it registered! There are groups for individual breeds but dogs are not registered through groups or breed specific kennel clubs! This is a common scam...buyer beware!

I don't mind answering any questions, whether you have bought one of my babies or not. You can email me at: aristocratbulls@roadrunner.com or vetzpets@roadrunner.com  to request a Dext-Orr Bullmastiff CD full of information, references, loads of pictures, champion listings, 15+ generation AKC certified pedigrees or just request more information or a puppy application will be happy to answer any questions you have, even if you don't buy a puppy from us we are still happy to answer any questions you might have, we have been doing this so long we most likely have been in the same situation & found the best solution at one point or another.

 

I spend a lot of time with my dogs, and helping other people with their dogs, so I'm almost impossible to get in touch with by phone which I'm sorry about but my dogs always come first!!! Please leave a message & your email address or mailing address & I will send you out lots of information & a puppy application-if your puppy application is approved we will definitely set up a time to talk on the phone if you want!!

 

I love for people to be able to come & meet the family, but distance can be a factor so if your puppy has to fly home, just keep in mind that if you're ever up north around Maine our door is always open!!! We do not have a kennel, our dogs are all house dogs so we don't have "hours" that we're open or anything like that, it's our home and your always welcome just give me a call if you think you might be in the area at some point, we would love to meet you, or see you again!

 

There is so much information out there today with the internet, some of its good, some bad, and some just plain dangerous; it is difficult & very time consuming to try to sort through all of that info. it is just easier, and probably safer to ask someone who has been there! I can answer emails much faster than phone calls, but if you hate email just say so & I will return your call as soon as possible. The reason I can answer emails much faster is I can do it in the wee hours of the morning...when I have a little free time, and it's not usually a good time to call people!


Research the breed as much as possible before making the decision to buy one! Ask a lot of questions of the breeder!

There was an article in Dog World magazine that summed up a Bullmastiff very well, it was entitled " The Gentle Giants ", See if you can find it in Dog World's archives on line, it will be worth the search if you are interested in Bullmastiffs.

Everyone should KNOW whether the puppy they are getting is going to fit well into their life style, pets aren't disposable and the more you know about the breed the better chance this new puppy will be a cherished member of your family, not a misunderstood pet that has to spend his life chained outdoors away from his family!

I want to make sure people who want one of my puppies know the breed, have done extensive research on the breed and KNOW that this is the dog for them, if they have not done enough research or saw the breed in a movie or commercial & liked the looks of it, I will not sell someone a puppy based on that, however if that's the beginning of their interest in this breed then I would be more than happy to provide all the information they want to learn more about Bullmastiffs! Dalmatians are a perfect example of what happens when people see a dog (in a movie or like) and think they want one based solely on that, there were so many Dalmatians put to sleep or ended up in shelters because people found out just because they were in a Disney movie didn't mean they were necessarily good with children! You have to know for sure the breed that will fit best with your life style, because pets are not suppose to be disposable any more than a human child is, they should be treated the same way as a member of the family!!!

Aristocrat Bullmastiffs participates in the voluntary DNA profile testing of all our studs (information about the DNA program from AKC is below):

DNA and the AKC
Making the Science Work for You


The AKC offers a comprehensive set of voluntary and mandatory programs to ensure the integrity of the AKC registry: voluntary DNA Profiling; the Frequently Used Sires requirement; the Fresh-Extended/Frozen Semen requirement; the Multiple-Sired Litter Registration Policy; and the Kennel Inspections/Compliance Audit Program. The AKC has built the world's largest database of canine DNA profiles for parentage verification and genetic identity purposes.

The Science Behind AKC DNA Profiles

AKC DNA Profiles are generated using the same technology used by law enforcement agencies throughout the world. How does this work? In humans and dogs alike, each gene is present as two copies (displayed as letters). Offspring receive one copy of each gene from each parent in a random process.

This technology does not use actual genes, but other DNA sequences that are also inherited one copy from each parent. For this reason, your dog's AKC DNA Profile does not provide any information about the conformation of the dog or the presence/absence of genetic diseases. Furthermore, AKC DNA Profiles cannot determine the breed of a dog.

Voluntary DNA Profile

This voluntary program has resulted from significant input from the fancy. The DNA Profile Program is for owners and breeders electing to add value to their breeding programs by eliminating concerns or questions about identification and parentage.

A dog owner may contact AKC for a DNA Test Kit which includes a swab that the owner uses to collect loose cells from inside the dog's cheek. An AKC DNA Profile containing the dog's registration information, genotype, and a unique DNA Profile number is issued for each dog sampled. This DNA Profile number will appear on subsequently issued Registration Certificates and Pedigrees.

DNA Requirements

AKC DNA Profiling is required for: Frequently Used Sires (dogs having the greatest impact on the AKC Stud Book); imported breeding stock; dogs whose semen is collected for fresh-extended or frozen use; and for the sires, dam and puppies for Multiple-Sired Litter Registration.

Kennel Inspections/Compliance Audit Program

AKC Representatives take DNA samples at randomly selected kennels to verify identification and parentage of litters. AKC litter registration and privileges will be withdrawn when the parentage of the litters is determined to be incorrect. The dogs sampled through the Compliance Audit Program are not considered AKC DNA Profiled, and DNA Profiles are not issued.

The AKC DNA Database and Parentage Verification

Comparison of the DNA profiles of a dam, sire, and pup(s) will determine, with greater than 99% confidence, whether the pups are from the tested dam and sire. The AKC DNA database examines the parentage of all AKC DNA Profiled registered dogs and litters whelped on or after January 1, 2000. When problems are discovered, the DNA staff works with breeders to determine correct parentage at the breeder's expense.

AKC Parentage Evaluation Service

For a fee, an AKC DNA Analyst will issue a Parentage Evaluation of a litter in the form of an easy to read table listing each dog's genotype and a written report.

Parentage Evaluation can be used to ensure accuracy when breeding has been done offsite, for cases of artificial insemination, or to add to extra measure of confidence to your pedigrees.



The American Kennel Club (AKC) is a good place to start to get information on pure bred dogs.

Ask the breeder questions, lots of questions, any questions, there are no stupid questions! If the breeder you are considering doesn't like to answer questions then find someone else!!! The breeder is responsible for bringing this puppy into the world and should stand behind this puppy for life!!!

 

We take our breeding very seriously & will only breed the best examples of standard improving the breed with every litter; our dogs live far longer than others of this breed, enjoying good health their whole lives! They have the best temperaments & adore children & live harmoniously with other animals. They are bred to be family dogs but all are of show quality, family first then show!

 

 

The pups are raised in our home, very confident, friendly, lovable pups! Very intelligent!
Beautiful fawn, red/fawn & red & shades of brindle Bullmastiffs puppies. Our puppies are hand whelped and have been handled very frequently from the time they were born.

They are very used to having their nails clipped and being groomed. They have had everything done right, since DEXT-ORR BULLMASTIFFS is owned by a licensed veterinarian and a vet. tech. They have a temperature controlled nursery with plenty of visual stimulation (for brain stimulation, makes them smarter and more easily trained!) They have closed circuit TV cameras at every angle in their nursery (so in the unusual event that I'm not already in the nursery) I can watch them constantly on the monitors throughout the house. They have had sunlight and sunlamps to ensure they get enough Vit. D. They have been breast fed by their mother and supplemented with the bottle to ensure a uniform litter (there are no "runts"). Being able to nurse from their mother ensures that they will get adequate antibodies against the canine diseases she has been vaccinated against.

 

We are breeders in the animal health care business; our breeding is NOT a business. We see too many breeders who breed only for money and don't care how or what they breed (the worst are the puppy/kitten mills; it will be a happy day when they are shut down!) ALL puppies sold in pet stores (any pet stores) are from puppy mills!!!! No ethical breeder would sell pups to a pet store!!!! This is why the more common breeds of dogs have so many genetic health and temperament problems! Dogs should only be bred out of love of the breed! (We never even come close to breaking even in the $ department we put so much into our dogs!)

I will also answer any training questions you might have; I have been training Bullmastiffs for as long as I have been breeding them! I understand canine behavior much better than human behavior, but since I actually live with my dogs I understand Bullmastiff behavior as well as a Bullmastiff!!!

The pups are also crate trained before going to their new homes since I find this is when people give in the most when the pup first goes home. Crate training is so important, it is the only way to keep a puppy safe when you are unable to supervise them, no one would ever consider letting a human baby roam around the house without supervision & it’s even more dangerous for puppies because they can chew electrical cords, eat dangerous objects, etc. (info. on crate training available upon request). When the puppies start sleeping in their own crates at night I have their new people send something from their home like a t-shirt from all family members so the pup can sleep with it at night. As much as 90% of the information a dog processes is through their sense of smell so by doing this when the puppy goes to their new home they are already know the people & the home & it makes the transition so much easier for both the puppy & the pups new people!

By that simple act of sending me a t-shirt (and everyone’s got an old t-shirt they can live without) & wearing it to bed or during the day to get your scent on it, I ask every member of the family do this, the puppies actually know you before they even see you & are so comfortable in their new homes it’s like they were born there-it works so very well, not only does it eliminate the stress a puppy goes through with strangers in a strange house and being away from their siblings for the first time, but it at least helps my stress knowing that they aren’t scared!

The pups have started working on a leash. These puppies are very confident and will grow to be very stable, trustworthy and naturally protective of their families and property.

But don’t be surprised when all of a sudden they start acting afraid of things they weren’t afraid of before, this is all part of puppy development, they go through two fear periods, their teething lasts up to 12 months of age, and for all behavioral questions again don’t hesitate to ask me, there isn’t anything I haven’t seen or had to deal with over the years! I am more than willing to share my knowledge with anyone whether they have one of my puppies or not!

Early Neurological Stimulation

By Dr. Carmen L. Battaglia

Surprising as it may seem, it isn't capacity that explains the differences that exist between individuals because most seem to have far more capacity than they will ever use. The differences that exist between individuals seem to be related to something else. The ones who achieve and outperform others seem to have within themselves the ability to use hidden resources. In other words, it's what they are able to do with what they have that makes the difference.

In many animal breeding programs, the entire process of selection and management is founded on the belief that performance is inherited. Attempts to analyze the genetics of performance in a systematic way have involved some distinguished names such as Charles Darwin and Francis Galton. But it has only been in recent decades that good estimates of heritability of performance have been based on adequate data. Cunningham, (1991) in his study of horses, found that only by using Timeform data, and measuring groups of half brothers and half sisters could good estimates of performance be determined. His data shows that performance for speed is about 35% heritable. In other words, only about 35% of all the variation that is observed in track performance is controlled by heritable factors, the remaining 65% is attributable to other influences, such as training, management and nutrition. Cunningham's work while limited to horses, provides a good basis for understanding how much breeders can attribute to the genetics and the pedigrees.

Researchers have studied these phenomena and have looked for new ways to stimulate individuals in order to improve their natural abilities. Some of the methods discovered have produced life long lasting effects. Today many of the differences between individuals can now be explained by the use of early stimulation methods.

Man for centuries has tried various methods to improve performance. Some of the methods have stood the test of time, others have not. Those who first conducted research on this topic believed that the period of early age was a most important time for stimulation because of its rapid growth and development. Today, we know that early life is a time when the physical immaturity of an organism is susceptible and responsive to a restricted but important class of stimuli. Because of its importance many studies have focused their efforts on the first few months of life.

Newborn pups are uniquely different from adults in several respects. When born, their eyes are closed and their digestive system has a limited capacity requiring periodic stimulation by their dam who routinely licks them in order to promote digestion. At this age they are only able to smell, suck, and crawl. Body temperature is maintained by snuggling close to their mother or by crawling into piles with other littermates. During these first few weeks of immobility, researchers noted that these immature and under-developed canines are sensitive to a restricted class of stimuli which includes thermal and tactile stimulation, motion and locomotion.

Other studies involving early stimulation exercises have been successfully performed on both cats and dogs. In these studies, the Electrical Encephalogram (EEG) was found to be ideal for measuring the electrical activity in the brain because of its extreme sensitivity to changes in excitement, emotional stress, muscle tension, changes in oxygen and breathing. EEG measures show that pups and kittens when given early stimulation exercises mature at faster rates and perform better in certain problem solving tests than non-stimulated mates.

The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized six exercises which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference, the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup.

The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

  1. Tactical stimulation (between toes): Holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.(Figure 1)
  2. Head held erect: Uusing both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds (Figure 2)
  3. Head pointed down: Holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds(Figure 3)
  4. Supine position: Hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.(Figure 4)
  5. Thermal stimulation: Use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds. (Figure 5)

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them.

 These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected, the result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

Benefits of Stimulation

Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises.

The benefits noted were:

  1. Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
  2. Stronger heart beats
  3. Stronger adrenal glands
  4. More tolerance to stress
  5. Greater resistance to disease.

In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.

Secondary effects were also noted regarding test performance. In simple problem solving tests using detours in a maze, the non-stimulated pups became extremely aroused, whined a great deal, and made many errors. Their stimulated littermates were less disturbed or upset by test conditions and when comparisons were made, the stimulated littermates were more calm in the test environment, made fewer errors and gave only an occasional distress sound when stressed.

As each animal grows and develops, three kinds of stimulation have been identified that impact and influence how it will develop and be shaped as an individual. The first stage is called early neurological stimulation and the second stage is called socialization. The first two (early neurological stimulation and socialization) have in common a window of limited time. When Lorenz, (1935) first wrote about the importance of the stimulation process, he wrote about imprinting during early life and its influence on the later development of the individual. He states that it was different from conditioning in that it occurred early in life and took place very rapidly producing results which seemed to be permanent. One of the first and perhaps the most noted research effort involving the larger animals was achieved by Kellogg & Kellogg (1933). As a student of Dr. Kellogg's, I found him and his wife to have an uncanny interest in children and young animals and the changes and the differences that occurred during early development. Their history-making study involved raising their own newborn child with a newborn primate. Both infants were raised together as if they were twins. This study, like others that followed attempted to demonstrate that among the mammals, there are great differences in their speed of physical and mental development. Some are born relatively mature and quickly capable of motion and locomotion, while others are very immature, immobile and slow to develop. For example, the Rhesus monkey shows rapid and precocious development at birth, while the chimpanzee and the other "great apes" take much longer. Last and slowest is the human infant.

One of the earliest efforts to investigate and look for the existence of socialization in canines was undertaken by Scott-Fuller (1965). In their early studies, they were able to demonstrate that the basic technique for testing the existence of socialization was to show how readily adult animals would foster young animals, or accept one from another species. They observed that, with the higher level animals, it is easiest done by hand rearing. When the foster animal transfers its social relationships to the new species, researchers conclude that socialization has taken place. Most researchers agree that among all species, a lack of adequate socialization generally results in unacceptable behavior and often times produces undesirable aggression, excessiveness, fearfulness, sexual inadequacy and indifference toward partners.

Socialization studies confirm that one of the critical periods for humans (infant) to be stimulated are generally between three weeks and twelve months of age. For canines the period is shorter, between the fourth and sixteenth weeks of age. The lack of adequate social stimulation, such as handling, mothering and contact with others, adversely affects social and psychological development in both humans and animals. In humans, the absence of love and cuddling increases the risk of an aloof, distant, asocial or sociopathic individual. Over-mothering also has its detrimental effects by preventing sufficient exposure to other individuals and situations that have an important influence on growth and development. It occurs when a parent insulates the child from outside contacts or keeps the apron strings tight, thus limiting opportunities to explore and interact with the outside world. In the end, over-mothering generally produces a dependent, socially maladjusted and sometimes emotionally disturbed individual.

Protected youngsters who grow up in an insulated environment often become sickly, despondent,lacking in flexibility and unable to make simple social adjustments. Generally, they are unable to function productively or to interact successfully when they become adults.

Owners who have busy life styles with long and tiring work and social schedules often cause pets to be neglected. Left to themselves with only an occasional trip out of the house or off of the property they seldom see other canines or strangers and generally suffer from poor stimulation and socialization. For many, the side effects of loneliness and boredom set-in. The resulting behavior manifests itself in the form of chewing, digging, and hard- to-control behavior (Battaglia).

It seems clear that small amounts of stress followed by early socialization can produce beneficial results. The danger seems to be in not knowing where the thresholds are for over and under stimulation. Many improperly socialized youngsters develop into older individuals unprepared for adult life, unable to cope with its challenges, and interactions. Attempts to re-socialize them as adults have only produced small gains. These failures confirm the notion that the window of time open for early neurological and social stimulation only comes once. After it passes, little or nothing can be done to overcome the negative effects of too much or too little stimulation.

The third and final stage in the process of growth and development is called enrichment. Unlike the first two stages it has no time limit, and by comparison, covers a very long period of time. Enrichment is a term which has come to mean the positive sum of experiences which have a cumulative effect upon the individual. Enrichment experiences typically involve exposure to a wide variety of interesting, novel, and exciting experiences with regular opportunities to freely investigate, manipulate, and interact with them. When measured in later life, the results show that those reared in an enriched environment tend to be more inquisitive and are more able to perform difficult tasks. The educational TV program called “Sesame Street” is perhaps the best known example of a children's enrichment program. The results show that when tested, children who regularly watched this program performed better than playmates who did not. Follow-up studies show that those who regularly watch “Sesame Street” tend to seek a college education and when enrolled, performed better than playmates who were not regular watchers of the “Sesame Street” program.

There are numerous children’s studies that show the benefits of enrichment techniques and programs. Most focus on improving self-esteem and self-talk. Follow-up studies show that the enriched “Sesame Street” students, when later tested were brighter and scored above average, and most often were found to be the products of environments that contributed to their superior test scores. On the other hand, those whose test scores were generally below average, (labeled as dull) and the products of underprivileged or non- enriched environments, often had little or only small amounts of stimulation during early childhood and only minimal amounts of enrichment during their developmental and formative years. Many were characterized as children who grew up with little interaction with others, poor parenting, few toys, no books and a steady diet of TV soap operas.

A similar analogy can be found among canines. All the time they are growing they are learning because their nervous systems are developing and storing information that may be of inestimable use at a later date. Studies by Scott and Fuller confirm that non-enriched pups, when given free choice, preferred to stay in their kennels. Other litter mates who were given only small amounts of outside stimulation between five and eight weeks of age were found to be very inquisitive and very active. When kennel doors were left open, the enriched pups would come bounding out while littermates who were not exposed to enrichment would remain behind. The non-stimulated pups would typically be fearful of unfamiliar objects and generally preferred to withdraw rather than investigate. Even well-bred pups of superior pedigrees would not explore or leave their kennels, and many were found difficult to train as adults. These pups, in many respects, were similar to the deprived children. They acted as if they had become institutionalized, preferring the routine and safe environment of their kennel to the stimulating world outside their immediate place of residence.

Regular trips to the park, shopping centers and obedience and agility classes serve as good examples of enrichment activities. Chasing and retrieving a ball on the surface seems to be enriching because it provides exercise and includes rewards. While repeated attempts to retrieve a ball provide much physical activity, it should not be confused with enrichment exercises. Such playful activities should be used for exercise and play or as a reward after returning from a trip or training session. Road work and chasing balls are not substitutes for trips to the shopping mall, outings or obedience classes most of which provide many opportunities for interaction and investigation.

Finally, it seems clear that stress early in life can produce beneficial results. The danger seems to be in not knowing where the thresholds are for over and under stimulation. The absence or the lack of adequate amounts of stimulation generally will produce negative and undesirable results. Based on the above, it is fair to say that the performance of most individuals can be improved, including the techniques described above. Each contributes in a cumulative way and supports the next stage of development.

Conclusion

Breeders can now take advantage of the information available to improve and enhance performance. Generally, genetics account for about 35% of the performance, but the remaining 65‰ (management, training, nutrition) can make the difference. In the management category, it has been shown that breeders should be guided by the rule that it is generally considered prudent to guard against under and over stimulation. Short of ignoring pups during their first two months of life, a conservative approach would be to expose them to children, people, toys and other animals on a regular basis. Handling and touching all parts of their anatomy is also a necessary part of their learning which can be started as early as the third day of life. Pups that are handled early and on a regular basis generally do not become hand-shy as adults.

Because of the risks involved in under-stimulation, a conservative approach to using the benefits of the three stages has been suggested based primarily on the works of Arskeusky, Kellogg, Yearkes and the "Bio Sensor" program (later known as the "Super Dog Program").

Both experience and research have dominated the beneficial effects that can be achieved via early neurological stimulation, socialization and enrichment experiences. Each has been used to improve performance and to explain the differences that occur between individuals, their trainability, health and potential. The cumulative effects of the three stages have been well documented. They best serve the interests of owners who seek high levels of performance when properly used. Each has a cumulative effect and contributes to the development and the potential for individual performance.


 

 

Early Stimulation Exercises

  • Figure # 1 Tactical stimulation
  • Figure # 2 Head held erect
  • Figure # 3 Head pointed down
  • Figure # 4 Figure Supine position
  • Figure # 5 Thermal stimulation

http://www.breedingbetterdogs.com/articles/early_neurological_stimulation_en.html


 


 

 




© 1984 All Rights Reserved-Copy Write ARISTOCRAT/DEXT-ORR BULLMASTIFFS & VetzPets International