ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS
    AKC, DNA, TDI, CGC, ADOA, APDT-LIFE TIME HEALTH & 2 YR TEMPERAMENT GUARANTEES


GROOMING TIPS-KEEPING YOUR B
 
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS
NAVIGATION
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFFS HOME
FINALLY-OUT TO PLAY !!!
VetzPets Stuff For BIG Dogs!
BIG DOG STUFF PICS VETZP
BREAKING NEWS ARISTOCRAT BUL
ABOUT ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFF
OUR BREEDING PHILOSOPHY
PUP PICS FROM PREV. LITT
PUPPY PEOPLE PIC SLIDESH
PUPPY PEOPLE PICS!
MEET OUR NEW PUPPIES!
AKC CHAMPION PEDIGREES
OUR PUPPY APPLICATION
COST: YOU CAN BUY LOVE...
ARISTOCRAT BULLMASTIFF PUPPY
THINGS TO GET YOUR NEW PUP
PREPARE FOR YOUR NEW PUP
SOME TESTIMONIALS
IZZY WORKING 2
OUR DOG & PUPPY PICS!
ALL OUR PIC ALBUMS FLICKR
STUD SERV. AVAILABLE
LUCA BRAHMA-BULL. STUD
TEARLOCH ONYX-BULL
MEET OUR DOGS!
DHARMA'S PAGE
VIDEOS OF OUR DOGS & PUP
OUR VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE
IZZY'S PUPS PLAYING 7 WK
RUBY RAG-DOLL 2
RUBY RAG-DOLL 3
DHARMA PIC SLIDE SHOW
BIG DOG LOVERS GROUP
TOYS...YOU NEED THEM!!!!
BULLY FIRST AID
HEALTH TIPS & ALERTS FOR YOU
LIST OF UNSAFE CHEWS
GROOMING TIPS-KEEPING YOUR B
RECOMMENDED BULLY READING
HELP BULLMASTIFF RESCUE!!!!
PLEASE SIGN GUESTBOOK
BRINDLING THE GENETICS
KWAME AT WESTMINSTER 05 & 06
TEARLOCH'S SIRE CH. BLAZINS
MY SPACE DEXT-ORR BULLMASTIF
TOUGH-SAFE STUFF FOR BIG DOG
Tealoch's G-father pedig
Sire's M.G.Father pedigr
sire's M.G.Mother Pedigr
Tearloch G.Mother Pedigr
My Infodog Dext-Orr's
OUR DOGSTER PAGES & VIDEO
Calendar
bullmastiff video
Bully Poem by Suzan
AKC Bullmastiff Standard
AKC Canine Good Citizen
Therapy Dogs Int.
BULLIES BEST THERAPY DOG
AKC Kids Corner
Pets For Life Video
Stop Puppy Mills!!!!
Link to Logan
Rescue Information & why
PEDIGREE LOOK UP AM/UK
Sebasticook Animal Clini
ARISTOCRAT AKC DNA STUDS FOR
SELECT FOR 1 GEN TRAIT..
Forums
LUCA COMES HOME!!! :)
Videos
TRAINING TIPS WITH VIDEO






    
BLACK NAIL CLIPPING DEMO


NAIL CLIPPING & GROOMING DEMOS ON VIDEO**DON'T FORGET TO USE THE "BACK" KEY ON YOUR BROWSWER IF YOU USE THIS LINK & NOT THE LINK IN THE NAVIGATION BAR!

KEEPING YOUR BULLMASTIFF CLEAN, SMELLING GREAT WITH HEALTHY SKIN AND A HEALTHY HAIR COAT!!!

GROOMING & NAIL CLIPPING LINKS TO VIDEO DEMOS:

(DON'T FORGET TO HIT THE "BACK" KEY ON YOUR BROWSWER SO WE DON'T LOSE YOU AFTER WATCHING THE VIDEOS (YOU DON'T NEED TO DO THIS IF YOU USE THE LINK IN THE NAVIGATION BAR JUST THE LINKS BELOW-COME ON BACK!!!) THERE'S MORE TO LEARN 

 

FIRST FOR EQUIPMENT FOR GROOMING I USE A RUBBER CURRY COMB (LIKE THE KIND OF HORSES) GET A NICE SOFT ONE NOT THE HARD RUBBER IT SHOULD BEND EASILY!

***VETZPETS INT. MY BUSINESS WHERE I MAKE ALL KINDS OF COOL CUSTOM PRODUCTS FOR BULLMASTIFFS, AND ALL DOGS FROM THE BIG TO THE SMALL, I ALSO CARRY ALL THE PRODUCTS THAT HAVE BEEN TESTED TRIED AND TRUE THAT I USE MYSELF WITH MY OWN DOGS. I'VE WASTED SO MUCH MONEY OVER THE YEARS ON THINGS THAT DON'T WORK WELL AND AFTER 30 YEARS OF LIVING WITH BULLMASTIFFS I'VE FOUND ALL THE THINGS THAT WORK GREAT, HOLD UP FAR BETTER THAN ANYTHING ELSE, ARE EASY TO CLEAN AND USE AND IF YOU BUY THEM FROM ME (VETZPETS INT.) PART OF THE PROCEEDS HELPS FUND MY BULLMASTIFF RESCUE PROGRAM AND THE REST SUPPORTS MY DOGS IN THE SPOILED "ROYAL" MANNER THEY ARE ACCUSTOMED TO! SO ANYONE WHO ORDERS PRODUCTS FROM ME I THANK YOU VERY MUCH AND NOT ONLY ARE YOU GETTING THE BEST QUALITY PRODUCTS THE MONEY GOETS TO A GREAT CAUSE!

WOOF - TRANSLATED IN DOG MEANS THANK YOU 

SO THE LIST OF GROOMING PRODUCTS SHOULD BE:

1) A SOFT SUBTLE RUBBER CURRY COMB

2) A SOFT BRISTLED BRUSH (I LIKE THE PLASTIC ONES YOU SEE IN THE VIDEO BECAUSE THEY ARE SUPER EASY TO CLEAN AND WORK VERY WELL TO KEEP THE DOGS COATS CLEAN AND SHINY! I JUST RINSE THEM OFF WITH HOT WATER IN THE SINK THEN PUT THEM BRISTLE PART DOWN ON A HAND TOWEL TO DRY, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE TWO OF THESE BRUSHES.

YOU SHOULD ALSO HAVE ONE TINY BRUST FOR THEIR FACE (WHICH I USE BUT DIDN'T DEMO IN THE VIDEO) I BUY A CAT BRUSH WHICH IS PERFECT ALSO GREAT FOR LITTLE PUPPIES!!!

3) A FURMINATIOR (TO REMOVE DEAD HAIR) OR A HORSE/DOG SHEDDING BLADE

4) GROOMING/CONDITIONING SPRAY-I USE A MIXTURE OF "GLO-COAT" AND MINK OIL MIXED TOGETHER AND SHAKEN WELL BEFORE SPRAYING, YOU CAN SPRAY DIRECTLY ON THEIR BODY AS LONG AS IT DOESN'T GET IN THEIR EYES BUT USUALLY I SPRAY THE BRUSH INSTEAD.

5) A GOOD HEAVY DUTY PAIR OF NAIL CLIPPERS, ALSO (JUST IN CASE) HAVE SOME BLOOD STOP POWDER (CORN STARCH WORKS GREAT TOO) ON HAND JUST IN CASE YOU CLIP TOO CLOSE AND GET A BLEEDING NAIL (GIVE TREATS AND LOTS OF PRAISE DURING BOTH NAIL CLIPPING, EAR CLEANING AND GROOMING PROCESS) THIS WAY YOUR DOG WILL NOT WRESTLE YOU EVERY TIME YOU NEED TO DO NAILS, CLEAN EARS OR DO A GROOMING AND THE GROOMING DEMO'ED SHOULD BE DONE ONCE A WEEK, DAILY SPRAY THE SOFT BRUSH WITH GROOMING SPRAY MIXTURE AND GIVE THEM A GOOD BRUSHING USEING THE SMALLER BRUSH FOR THEIR FACE, THIS KEEPS THEM CLEAN, SMELLING GOOD AND A MUCH HEALTHIER HAIR COAT AND SKIN THAN IF YOU GAVE THEM BATHS-BATHS REMOVE THE NATURAL OILS IN THEIR SKIN AND CAN CAUSE THEM TO DROP THEIR COATS MEANING LOTS OF SHEDDING!!! ONLY GIVE A BATH WHEN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY AND IF YOU MUST THE BEST SHAMPOO IS CALLED MR. CRYSTALS AUSTRALIAN TEARLESS SHAMPOO WITH OIL OF ORCHIDS, IT SMELLS GREAT AND IS MUCH LESS DRYING THAN OTHERS-EVEN SHAMPOOS MADE FOR DRY SKIN! TROUBLE IS IT'S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND, I BOUGHT A GALLON JUG A YEAR OR SO AGO SO I'D HAVE IT IN STOCK SHOULD ANYONE NEED SOME JUST LET ME KNOW.

6) A SOFT CLOTH TO WIPE OVER LAST PART OF THE GROOMING ASLO CAN BE USED TO WIPE THE WRINKLES AND NORMAL DISCHARGE FROM THEIR EYES THAT CAN COLLECT IN THE WRINKLS.

7) A GOOD GENTLE EAR CLEANER, EITHER PAPER TOWELS OR GAUZE PADS AND POSSIBLY Q-TIPS OR APPLICATOR TIPS (JUST Q-TIPS ON A LONG WOODEN STICK), DO NOT GO DOWN INTO THE EAR CANAL JUST USE TO GET INTO THE NOOKS AND CRANNIES OF THEIR EARS, NORMAL DOG EAR WAX IS DARK BROWN IN COLOR OFTEN MISTAKEN FOR EAR MITES, IT IS EXTREMELY RARE THAT DOGS GET EAR MITES UNLESS THEY ARE HANGING AROUND AND VERY CLOSE TO A CAT THAT HAS THEM AND THEY BASICALLY HAVE TO SLEEP TOGETHER, THAT CLOSE-IT'S VERY RARE FOR DOGS TO GET THEM!

8) VASELINE-TO KEEP THEIR NOSE MOISTURIZED AND TO KEEP IT FROM CHAPPING AND CRACKING IN THE WINTER, FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE DOGS THAT DO NOT HAVE BLACK PIGMENTED NOSES (LIGHT COLORED NOSES) USE SUNSCREEN 30 SPF ALL YEAR ROUND THIS WILL PREVENT WHAT IS CALLED "COLLIE NOSE" IT'S SUNBURN AND THE SUN CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO DOGS WITH LIGHT PIGMENTED SKIN JUST AS IT DOES WITH HUMANS! IT WILL NOT HURT THEM IF THEY LICK AT IT BUT IT WON'T HELP EITHER SO RUB IT IN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

9) ALWAYS HAVE TREATS (YUMMY-YUMMY) TREATS ON HAND WHEN PERFORMING ANY OF THESE PROCEEDURES ON YOUR DOG-WE WANT OUR DOGS TO BE HAPPY EVEN THROUGH THE LESS FUN THINGS THAT ARE NECESSARY TO KEEP THEM HEALTHY! THIS PART IS PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT-TREAT AND PRAISE YOUR DOG OVER AND OVER!!!

....GOT TO GO FOR NOW....THE DOGS CALL, BUT I WILL FINISH TYPING THE DETAILS LATER,

HERE ARE THE LINKS TO THE VIDEOS (DON'T FORGET TO HIT THAT "BACK KEY" ON YOUR BROWSER SO YOU CAN COME ON BACK AND WATCH THE REST OF THE VIDEOS!!!) LINKS BELOW:

VIDEO #1 GROOMING STUFF AND NAIL CLIPPING DEMO VIDEO (1):

http://sharing.theflip.com/session/7397ecb3b08df9868a70662ea8439f9e/video/2996971



Suzan's Training & Behavioral Tips

 

****Training Tip: It is always good to have a few chew toys around so when you catch the little bugger chewing on something bad… like your shoes, or more dangerous, like electrical cords, discipline him….again ONLY if you actually catch him in the act…he won’t understand otherwise and will associate the verbal punishment with EXACTLY what he IS doing at the time of the discipline! Anyway, when you do catch him chewing something unacceptable, tell him “NO” (in a low voice..it doesn’t have to be loud, just low)…remove the object and immediately replace it with an OK thing to chew on…like a rubber toy or a sterilized beef bone….when he starts chewing that, praise and praise him…he will VERY quickly make the association! So many people discipline a dog hours after he has chewed something he shouldn’t have (this can all be avoided by crate training!) and the poor thing hasn’t a clue as to what he is being chewed out for (no pun intended!) This will only confuse the daylights out of them, and make them kind of scared of you, and nervous around you…because they will never know when they are going to be yelled at…..you have to remember dogs…just like little kids, have no real concept of time…5 minuet, 3 days….all the same to them….

 

A crate, such as a Vari Kennel 200 (this is the size you want for when you first take your puppy home. (see Crate Training information)  

 

The SIZE of the crate is VERY important for use in house training. The rule of thumb is the crate should be large enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around & lay down comfortably with room for a food bowl, if the crate is larger than that it will allow your puppy the extra space to use as a ‘bath room’, puppies will not soil the area where they sleep (unless they have been left in the crate too long). When the puppy first goes home (around 8 weeks old) I do not recommend leaving them crated more than 3 to 4 hours max. as they get older their bladder control will develop so they will be able to hold it longer. The puppy will have already been trained to go all night in the crate (approx. 6-7 hrs), but only that length of time at night.

 

A Water Bottle (I can order this as well if you like), I like the water bottles as opposed to a water bowl because they can’t spill them, or go swimming, and they will keep the puppy much dryer, they also cannot chew on the bottle since it is on the outside of the door. I know some people don’t put water in the crate for the puppy (so they will not have to urinate) & from a medical standpoint this isn’t a good idea, they need to have fresh water available to them at all times, as with all babies they can dehydrate very quickly.

 

Pick up a few toys for the puppy to chew on, he/she will be teething and will need nice safe toys to

chew on to help break those teeth through (it is not uncommon to find a “baby” tooth stuck in a rope

toy or rubber toy along with a little blood, this is perfectly normal at this age!) Cotton Robe toys, rubber toys like Kong- brand name and even some human baby teething toys…just make sure they can not be ripped or swallowed! Ice cubes help to sooth sore gums & cut teeth & they LOVE them! Also raw carrots

are a good treat to give to the pup, they too (if kept cold in the fridge) will help to sooth sore gums, they also help prevent tartar build up on their teeth. But do watch them with carrots because they could

choke.

 

Toys are VERY important in training your puppy, because every time he/she try’s to chew on something

that is not acceptable you give them a verbal command (always using the same tone of voice for bad behavior… lower tones, and higher, happy tones for good behavior, I don’t think it is necessary to

punish a puppy by hitting them…if you don’t actually catch them in the act you cannot discipline them

at all…it will have no meaning because they will be unable to associate you being mad at them with anything other that what they are doing at the moment! Dogs are very intelligent, but they have no real concept of time, you can leave the house, forget something, turn right around & come back through the door no more than just a few minuets after leaving & the dogs will act like you’ve been gone for years!

You always have a wonderful welcoming committee with dogs! J

 

When a dog takes off without a leash and is having too much fun romping around to bother “hearing”

you are calling him to come.. and you are becoming more and more fearful because you are afraid he’ll

get hit by a car, and when you finally get his attention and he finally comes to you….well, the first thing

you want to do is kill him for scaring you so bad..at least discipline him for not coming when called

(this is one big difference between teaching a human child and a puppy!), but if you do discipline him

you will only reinforce his NOT coming to you when called because he knows now that if he comes to

you he gets in trouble!
They associate either praise or punishment with what they are doing at the moment, not what they did a

few minuets ago, so many dogs are totally confused by this, but if you just understand that they live in

the moment & have no concept of future or past time, they you & your dog will understand each other

very well!

Yes it is hard…but you must PRAISE him when he finally comes…he had no conception of the time that

you spent calling him…the more you praise him the more apt he will be to come the FIRST time you call

him next time. Check into obedience classes & get an appointment. Also obedience training will be a

great help with this as well….but STAY CLEAR of ANY trainer that recommends physically punishing

your dog…this may cause irreparable damage to your dogs personality!!!!  Positive & Negative reinforcement through tone of voice and body language such as hand signals combined with your

lowered change of voice should be all you ever need to train your dog! You MUST be able to understand a dog’s behavior before you can train him out of behavior that isn’t acceptable. Treats are also a wonderful training tool, little bits of cheese, broken milk bones, Cheerios, anything little like that. Bullmastiffs respond very well to food, BUT food praise is something you should not do on any regular basis or soon

You will have another Pavloff’s dog! Alternate praise in the form of verbal (high tones) praise, pats, &

food but in no set pattern, believe me they will pick up on any pattern when it comes to food!

 

Somehow I skipped from toys to training to behavior…but it all ties in, really it does! OK, I’ll move on!

But really, if you EVER have any questions regarding training, behavior, medical or something someone

has told you that may not “feel” right, just let me know…I have had many, many years experience with animal medicine, behavior and training…and I DON’T mind answering questions!! I would much rather answer questions than have physical or psychological damage done unintentionally to the puppy/dog.

 

You will need to be buying collars for awhile while your Bullmastiff Puppy grows; I always use flat buckle collars to get them used to wearing collars while they are still with me. I put these little collars on very loose so if they get caught on anything it will slip easily over their heads and not choke them, however when they are on a leash you defiantly want to use a no-slip collar…I recommend a martingale type collar since they can't slip out of them yet they will not constrict to the point of choking or causing damage to the puppies trachea, I do not recommend chain chokes for puppies especially since their neck muscles are not fully developed & can cause injury to their trachea. I can recommend good training collars for bully pups (see training too, for pictures of collars) They are very comfortable for the dog and they only time you tighten the collar with the leash is as a correction for pulling when you are walking..it’s a quick correction and then as soon as he is walking nicely by your side they collar is let loose again with the leash. This collar is perfect for leash training, but it also keeps your puppy safe by preventing the chance he may slip out of his collar.

You never want to leave this collar on when you are unable to watch him though, if he gets caught on something this collar is designed NOT to slip over his head, so take it off unless you are walking or training him. Keep a flat collar for in the house, and keep it loose enough that it can slip over his head if he ever gets caught on something.

Chain collars are tougher on their necks and tracheas, and the metal prong collars I think are just cruel, if you start working with your puppy teaching him to walk calmly on a leash you would never need to use a collar like that. If there is an instance where you don’t want to train & just go for a relaxing walk before your puppy is totally leash trained a Halter works excellent, the same principle as with a horse, you control the head you control the whole animal, VetzPets Bully-Boutique sells halters made just for Bullmastiffs short muzzles, with a safety strap that attaches to their regular collar.

 

 

 

 

 

 




© 1984 All Rights Reserved-Copy Write ARISTOCRAT/Dext-Orr Bullmastiffs & VetzPets International