****Training Tip: It is always good to have a few chew toys around so when you catch the little bugger chewing on something bad… like your shoes, or more dangerous, like electrical cords, discipline him….again ONLY if you actually catch him in the act…he won’t understand otherwise and will associate the verbal punishment with EXACTLY what he IS doing at the time of the discipline! Anyway, when you do catch him chewing something unacceptable, tell him “NO” (in a low voice..it doesn’t have to be loud, just low)…remove the object and immediately replace it with an OK thing to chew on…like a rubber toy or a sterilized beef bone….when he starts chewing that, praise and praise him…he will VERY quickly make the association! So many people discipline a dog hours after he has chewed something he shouldn’t have (this can all be avoided by crate training!) and the poor thing hasn’t a clue as to what he is being chewed out for (no pun intended!) This will only confuse the daylights out of them, and make them kind of scared of you, and nervous around you…because they will never know when they are going to be yelled at…..you have to remember dogs…just like little kids, have no real concept of time…5 minuet, 3 days….all the same to them….
A crate, such as a Vari Kennel 200 (this is the size you want for when you first take your puppy home. (see Crate Training information)
The SIZE of the crate is VERY important for use in house training. The rule of thumb is the crate should be large enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around & lay down comfortably with room for a food bowl, if the crate is larger than that it will allow your puppy the extra space to use as a ‘bath room’, puppies will not soil the area where they sleep (unless they have been left in the crate too long). When the puppy first goes home (around 8 weeks old) I do not recommend leaving them crated more than 3 to 4 hours max. as they get older their bladder control will develop so they will be able to hold it longer. The puppy will have already been trained to go all night in the crate (approx. 6-7 hrs), but only that length of time at night.
A Water Bottle (I can order this as well if you like), I like the water bottles as opposed to a water bowl because they can’t spill them, or go swimming, and they will keep the puppy much dryer, they also cannot chew on the bottle since it is on the outside of the door. I know some people don’t put water in the crate for the puppy (so they will not have to urinate) & from a medical standpoint this isn’t a good idea, they need to have fresh water available to them at all times, as with all babies they can dehydrate very quickly.
Pick up a few toys for the puppy to chew on, he/she will be teething and will need nice safe toys to
chew on to help break those teeth through (it is not uncommon to find a “baby” tooth stuck in a rope
toy or rubber toy along with a little blood, this is perfectly normal at this age!) Cotton Robe toys, rubber toys like Kong- brand name and even some human baby teething toys…just make sure they can not be ripped or swallowed! Ice cubes help to sooth sore gums & cut teeth & they LOVE them! Also raw carrots
are a good treat to give to the pup, they too (if kept cold in the fridge) will help to sooth sore gums, they also help prevent tartar build up on their teeth. But do watch them with carrots because they could
choke.
Toys are VERY important in training your puppy, because every time he/she try’s to chew on something
that is not acceptable you give them a verbal command (always using the same tone of voice for bad behavior… lower tones, and higher, happy tones for good behavior, I don’t think it is necessary to
punish a puppy by hitting them…if you don’t actually catch them in the act you cannot discipline them
at all…it will have no meaning because they will be unable to associate you being mad at them with anything other that what they are doing at the moment! Dogs are very intelligent, but they have no real concept of time, you can leave the house, forget something, turn right around & come back through the door no more than just a few minuets after leaving & the dogs will act like you’ve been gone for years!
You always have a wonderful welcoming committee with dogs! J
When a dog takes off without a leash and is having too much fun romping around to bother “hearing”
you are calling him to come.. and you are becoming more and more fearful because you are afraid he’ll
get hit by a car, and when you finally get his attention and he finally comes to you….well, the first thing
you want to do is kill him for scaring you so bad..at least discipline him for not coming when called
(this is one big difference between teaching a human child and a puppy!), but if you do discipline him
you will only reinforce his NOT coming to you when called because he knows now that if he comes to
you he gets in trouble!
They associate either praise or punishment with what they are doing at the moment, not what they did a
few minuets ago, so many dogs are totally confused by this, but if you just understand that they live in
the moment & have no concept of future or past time, they you & your dog will understand each other
very well!
Yes it is hard…but you must PRAISE him when he finally comes…he had no conception of the time that
you spent calling him…the more you praise him the more apt he will be to come the FIRST time you call
him next time. Check into obedience classes & get an appointment. Also obedience training will be a
great help with this as well….but STAY CLEAR of ANY trainer that recommends physically punishing
your dog…this may cause irreparable damage to your dogs personality!!!! Positive & Negative reinforcement through tone of voice and body language such as hand signals combined with your
lowered change of voice should be all you ever need to train your dog! You MUST be able to understand a dog’s behavior before you can train him out of behavior that isn’t acceptable. Treats are also a wonderful training tool, little bits of cheese, broken milk bones, Cheerios, anything little like that. Bullmastiffs respond very well to food, BUT food praise is something you should not do on any regular basis or soon
You will have another Pavloff’s dog! Alternate praise in the form of verbal (high tones) praise, pats, &
food but in no set pattern, believe me they will pick up on any pattern when it comes to food!

Somehow I skipped from toys to training to behavior…but it all ties in, really it does! OK, I’ll move on!
But really, if you EVER have any questions regarding training, behavior, medical or something someone
has told you that may not “feel” right, just let me know…I have had many, many years experience with animal medicine, behavior and training…and I DON’T mind answering questions!! I would much rather answer questions than have physical or psychological damage done unintentionally to the puppy/dog.
You will need to be buying collars for awhile while your Bullmastiff Puppy grows; I always use flat buckle collars to get them used to wearing collars while they are still with me. I put these little collars on very loose so if they get caught on anything it will slip easily over their heads and not choke them, however when they are on a leash you defiantly want to use a no-slip collar…I recommend a martingale type collar since they can't slip out of them yet they will not constrict to the point of choking or causing damage to the puppies trachea, I do not recommend chain chokes for puppies especially since their neck muscles are not fully developed & can cause injury to their trachea. I can recommend good training collars for bully pups (see training too, for pictures of collars) They are very comfortable for the dog and they only time you tighten the collar with the leash is as a correction for pulling when you are walking..it’s a quick correction and then as soon as he is walking nicely by your side they collar is let loose again with the leash. This collar is perfect for leash training, but it also keeps your puppy safe by preventing the chance he may slip out of his collar.
You never want to leave this collar on when you are unable to watch him though, if he gets caught on something this collar is designed NOT to slip over his head, so take it off unless you are walking or training him. Keep a flat collar for in the house, and keep it loose enough that it can slip over his head if he ever gets caught on something.
Chain collars are tougher on their necks and tracheas, and the metal prong collars I think are just cruel, if you start working with your puppy teaching him to walk calmly on a leash you would never need to use a collar like that. If there is an instance where you don’t want to train & just go for a relaxing walk before your puppy is totally leash trained a Halter works excellent, the same principle as with a horse, you control the head you control the whole animal, VetzPets Bully-Boutique sells halters made just for Bullmastiffs short muzzles, with a safety strap that attaches to their regular collar.