Travelling independently using public transport (together with my wife)
TERM: 8.12.2006 - 8.1.2007
ROUTE: Nairobi - Kakamega forest - Lake Bogoria NP - Lake Nakuru NP - Naivasha lake (Hell's Gate NP, Crater Lake) - Mt. Kenya NP trek (Chogoria up, Sirimon down) - Watamu (Gede ruins, Mida Creek, Arabuko-Sokoke NP) - Mombasa - Nairobi
There
seems to be a rather widespread opinion that it is almost unavoidable to
use services of some travel company for travelling around Kenya and
visiting those fabulous Kenyan national parks full of wildlife. In fact,
this is not really true and it is not any more difficult or even costly
to get round Kenya independently on one's own, than it is, say, in Asia or South
America. To make up for that rather biased perception I have prepared
this rather detailed trip report which should demonstrate that it is
possible to visit and see Kenya without being travelled around and
spending a fortune.
-----------------------------------------
General Information
Transport:
1.
We flew to Nairobi and back with the SN Brussels Airlines through
Brussels: both flights were OK and on time, leg space available was
above average, and the airline did not request us to pay for tickets
long before actual flying date as now become other major airlines
favourite nuisance; rather strangely, all 4 movies shown on African
flights were fairy tales (??).
2.
In Kenya we have used almost only public transport, both buses and
matatus (exceptions being renting a whole matatu for a short trip to
get quickly to some National Parks). Travelling was easy, cheap, and
quite safe - this hold even for matatus which, contrary to past
times, owing to new regulations kept speed and number of passengers on
reasonable level (we have never experienced any esp. dangerous
driving). Matatus are good for short travels, they are quick, run
frequently but are more expensive, often leave only when full and make
frequent stops. Buses are better for longer distances and especially
good when it is possible to book them in advance. There is no extra
charge for luggage (sometimes they try to ask you to pay for the third
seat but do not let them wangle you, it is just a common scam). A
problem to be encountered mainly in bigger cities is some pushing from
touts trying to get you to their buses/matatus - sometimes it is
difficult to tell which offer is the best for you but the differences
would not be too big anyway. Another problem is that you may get
overcharged on some routes (on others conductors are very
honest) - generally this practice becomes more frequent the more
to the east you are. When booking buses for two, check seats
distribution (booking offices use a chart of the bus seats to note
booking) - many buses has three seats on the right side with
rather insufficient width (and many Kenyans are quite overweight).
Accomodation:
We have used budget hotels with rooms up to about US$10 - for this
money you get a small room for two with your own bathroom (called
"self-contained room" in Kenya), often with hot water and sometimes
with a breakfast; sometimes we camped. A Kenyan double room has two
well-separated beds (whatever it tells about Kenyan family life) that
can be easily moved side by side; sometimes we also used a single room
with one wide bed (but check width before accepting the room, sometimes
it would not sleep two). Always ask about breakfast - sometimes it is
included even in places where you would not expect it (breakfast means
a small tea pot, one fried egg, one sausage, two slices of bread, some
fruit, margarine, and jam); if using a room with single bed, you will
get just one breakfast. Hot water was (surprisingly for me) almost
always available (of course with exception of hot coast areas) -
typically it was that scary through-flow heater mounted before the
spray (I am always surprised not to be killed by it), sometimes there
was a boiler and then water was not always available. A functioning fan
is a necessity in the low-lying areas, esp. on the coast (in Watamu we
often experienced power breaks and the heat became unbearable very
quickly). I have found Kenyan beds surprisingly short (and I have just
average 176 cm) and it was rather difficult to avoid leaning against
the mosquito net. Each bed almost always had a mosquito net but often
with quite a few holes - we used our own net. Quite often ahead
payment for room is flatly requested.
Food: Food
is no Kenyan attraction. We have used cheap restaurants and some street
stall food; sometime we have prepared food using camping stove. Food
available in cheap restaurants (called "hotel" or "cafe") and street
stalls (called "kiosk") is almost always based on meat and is not
really fresh (it is prepared in the morning and - hopefully -
kept warm throughout the day with some kind of heater); vegetarian food
is very limited (we are not vegetarians but when in tropical areas we
prefer to resort to vegetarian food to avoid problems). Everywhere you
can get chips, rice, and chapati; and there is always that tasteless
ugali. Beans are available very often, typically boiled, sometimes
fried - not bad. Besides, they serve something called vegetables which
are chopped leaves similar to spinach - no treat if you ask me (when
asked they call it "greens"). Very often they add some sort of fresh
vegetables (salad) to just about anything and I had great difficulties
to explain to them that I am avoiding uncooked vegetables. In some
places, esp. more touristy, you may have chance to negotiate something
beyond the menu (I often tried to make them to fry over the beans or
vegetables boiled before) but often they fail to carry it out as agreed
anyway. Interestingly, in the cheapest places they seemed to not
understand meaning of a tip and when I gave them something above the
price they looked surprised or even offended (??!).
Money: We
used a debit card in ATMs with no problem at all (MasterCard).
There were many banks with ATMs - we used Barclay's Bank that had
ATMs accepting both MasterCard and VISA cards with a withdrawal limit
up to Ksh40000. When leaving we had some small Kenya money left (shops
in Nairobi airport had prices only in US$ and used an outrageous
exchange rate !!) and I have been very positively surprised by an
exchange bureau on the Nairobi airport (behind check-in) which changed
me US$4-worth Kenya money with no commission and a very favourable
exchange rate.
Timing: The
timing of our trip was forced on by external reasons (job and family
constraints) but it has shown to be a rather lucky choice. We have
found ourselves in Kenya just after rather typical short-rain period
and it was quite interesting to see Africa green (before I was in
Africa always well into dry period - good for watching animals
converging to restricted water sources - and it made me think that
Africa is mainly yellow). The roads were already dry enough to travel
anywhere and it was not yet so hot on the coast. The Christmas and New
Year time has brought some troubles with sometimes rather full buses,
increased prices for buses and accommodation, and especially high
booking of hotels on the coast - still, the public transport run as
always and even some small shops were open.
Safety and pestering: We
have found Kenya quite safe and friendly. With normal precautions
nobody should have problems in any reasonable place (not talking about
Nairobi slums) and during reasonable time of a day (not talking about Nairobi in
middle night). We have not felt threatened nowhere but one small street
Nairobi (Taveta Rd.) where my wife suddenly found an alien hand in its
pocket; even Mombasa felt OK. You do get approached by children,
sometimes with their mother, asking for money sometimes quite flatly or
even aggressively (please, never give money or anything to these people
- your momentary money solve nothing and it makes them believe that
begging is a way how to live instead of finding some sustainable way;
South Asian countries are an example that there is a self-sustaining
way out for even the poorest parts of the world).
General impression: Though the systems how the things are organized are sometimes difficult to understand you can always manage; things may be little more difficult there in Africa than other parts of the world but Kenya is probably better than Tanzania or Southern Africa in this respect (my feeling but it might have been just coincidental). There are surprisingly many people that offer you advice and even help without expecting being paid - of course there are quite a few touts too, but even them when they understand that they get nothing from you will give you basic directions to follow on. Do not let yourself to be travelled around by a travel agency. We were watching their vans zipping by with "mzungus" (white people) staring out as to the zoo cage. Travelling with a travel agency means you have no contact with real Kenya and Kenyans and it is a great loss. Kenya is quite friendly and definitely interesting.
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Kakamega forest
We have spent two
days in the Isecheno area and enjoyed it quite a lot. Kakamega forest
is the only example of rainforest in Kenya and so it offers rather
unique experience (same forest covers all Western Africa), it is quite
nice and definitely worth visiting. Northern part of the forest is
newly the Kakamega Forest National Park and so it is necessary to pay
the US$20 daily entry fee and the only accommodation there is quite
expensive too (it is within the Park and very basic only), the southern
part is still without entry fee and accommodation is much cheaper too -
we have visited only southern part. It is said that the forest northern
part is less affected by human influences and the forest there is
mostly primary - yet, I have found some well-founded-looking reports
claiming that all the forest have been logged heavily some 100 years
ago. Anyway, even in the south we have found some real good parts of
the forest with huge trees. The forest is full with butterflies and
monkeys can be seen frequently there, there are also some birds up in
the canopy but difficult to see clearly. The forest is in a rather high
altitude (some 1600 m asl.) and so both temperature and humidity is
quite tolerable, esp. at night; due to the altitude usual spectacular
bromeliads, which cover trees in low-level rainforests, are replaced
with ferns and lichens. Naturally, the forest is open for hiking and so
you need no safari company or a car to see it in full. Also - or rather
because of it, there are not so many visitors there and so you are not
bumping to other tourists all the time.
Forest visit tips:
When reaching Isecheno you will surely be contacted by a local guide
from local organization KEEP, they ask fixed price of Ksh300 per person
per walk (walk duration does not matter, surprisingly) - they do know
the forest, names of the plants and animals, and are esp. good to point
you some birds you would easily overlook; otherwise they keep talking
about medicinal and other uses of various plants (fine, if you are
interested); also they offer night walks with flashlight for some
Ksh400 per person per walk (but we saw nothing on our walk, it is
question of luck and not really worth it). There are some areas you
would have difficulties to go to alone as there are lots of trails
there, e.g. "Isecheno B" primary (allegedly) forest. Other hikes you
can easily do on your own (which I always prefer) - I very much
recommend the Yala-river circuit trail; its trailhead with a sign is on
the main road to Kabsabet just behind the Rondo Retreat, it takes at
least half a day to get back to road (if staying on trail you get back
through the very garden of the Rondo Retreat, awfully up-scale resort),
take a compass to make sure you get back to the road as there are some
forks to negotiate with no signs to help you. Another place I recommend
is the Lirhanda Hill lookout point which is a rather steep hill
protruding above the forest canopy and offering very interesting views
(it is recommended to go there for sunrise which we were too lazy to
do), the trail to it starts to the right (south) from the main road to
Kabsabet some 1 or 2 km behind the Rondo Retereat at it takes about 2
hours to get there from the Forest Rest House.
Transport:
1. To get to Kakamega forest from Nairobi we have contacted Hotel
Greton (in Nairobi - see corresponding part of this report) and
ask them to book us tickets from Nairobi to Kakamega town on a bus of
the Akamba company for morning next day after our arrival - they did it
for us and we were glad for it as the bus was fully booked when we came
to the booking office. The price was Ksh850 per person. Unfortunately,
the bus had some problem and left 2.5 hour late and got to Kakamega at
eight evening. Thus we have been stuck at Kakamega town and have to
look for a hotel there - not so easy as Kakamega was a typical small
Kenyan town with almost no light at night; we have been lucky to
stumble over the Jionee Guest House (Cannon Awori St.) which might
easily be the best hotel in the town centre close to the Akamba bus
depot - paid Ksh700 for a reasonable single room with a bathroom.
2.
Next morning we found that it would probably take forever to get to
Isecheno using public transport (i.e. first taking matatu to Shinyalu
after this matatu gets full, and then renting local bicycle taxi called
"bodaboda" - actually two of them for each of us, one for oneself and
another one for the backpack). There were, of course, no taxi available
in the morning (it would be the option in the evening if not for the
bus delay) and so we retreated to hiring whole matatu to get us there
quickly (we got the price down to Ksh1200). To get out of the Forest
Rest House we also arranged with same matatu conductor to come for us
for the same price two days later and they carried it through
punctually on time. I am sure you can save money on transfers to forest
and back but I do not think it would be worth it.
Accommodation:
Forest Rest House at Isecheno, pleasant wooden house on stilts,
reasonable rooms with two beds and bathroom attached, Ksh250 per person
(if I remember correctly ?), no electricity (very dirty kerosene lamp
for lighting - bring a flashlight). Nice cool place, full of forest
sounds at night, from the terrace you can watch many monkeys hanging
around during a day (they are probably fed there to be attracted).
Food: Practically no food or drinking water available at Isecheno (there is one kiosk there where you could have some basic meal prepared - ugali with "greens" - and buy some highly overpriced water. The best is to bring all provisions needed for your stay from Kakamega town (another reason to arrange for your own transport), it helps to have cooking equipment.
Go back to the topLake Bogoria NP
We have spent one
day there and it was quite nice and interesting. The lake Bogoria is
one of the Rift Valley soda lakes and it is famous for some volcanic
phenomena (geysers and fumaroles) and a big flock of flamingos staying
there. The vegetation there is mainly the thorn bush but there is also
some acacia and fig forest there. Specialty of the Lake Bogoria
National Park is that you are allowed into it on foot or bicycle, i.e.
you can see it without a safari company or a car. Once again, there are
not so many visitors there and you can easily have the Park for
yourself - we have met just two locals quite surprised of seeing us. We
have rented bicycles and gone all the way from the Loboi Gate to the
Fig Tree Camp and back - it was rather tiring due to the heat but very
enjoyable, we have seen some animals (of course flamingos but also
hyraxes, zebras, gazelles, baboons, dick-dicks). The acacia and fig
forest on the south side of the lake is very nice and worth the effort
of getting there. The geysers and fumaroles are OK too, but nothing
special if you have seen Yelowstone or Island before.
Park visit tips:
First of all, be warned that by decision of the local Baringo county
the park fee is not US$20 quoted on the KWS site but Ksh2000 (about
US$30) - there was no way to do anything about the price but to slip in
the park without paying (of course, rangers are lazy and hardly ever
venture to the park but the area around the Loboi gate is quite easily
controlled). Through our hotel we have rented two local China-made
bicycles and used them to explore the Park - these bicycles were
terribly heavy and the rented ones were in pretty bad shape but they
did the service. Officially, you are allowed on foot and bicycle just
as far as Hot Springs about halfway south along the lake but I was not
stupid to ask and rangers could not be bothered. We simply took our
bicycles all the way south, left them there (the road became too much
for those wrecked bikes we had), and went on foot along the nice forest
road up to the Fig Tree Camp - it was about 50 km or so both way. Up to
the Hot Springs there is a tarmac road (well, mostly), then it is a
dirt road but OK for any bikes all the way to Acacia Camp - from there
it is better to walk so bring the chain to lock the bikes there. There
are two springs with quite clear water near the Fig Tree Camp, one just
after forking from the main road and the other in the Camp itself, so
bring water purifying tablets to save yourself from carrying water for
all day. If going on foot or bicycle do not be surprised that any
wildlife would flee from you much sooner than if on car.
Transport:
1. There was no direct transport between Kakamega and the Lake Bogoria.
We went step by step by three matatus along the route Kakamega -
Eldoret - Kabarnet - Marigat. It was easy, they always direct you to
the next vehicle and it never took too much time to fill it so it could
set off; still, it took a good part of the day to make it.
2.
For the last 20+ kilometres from Marigat to Loboi we once again
resorted to hiring our own transport as the place looked quite deserted
except for frequent matatus running from Nakuru to Baringo and back.
After some negotiation with local touts we ended paying some Ksh800 for
a safari van to take us to Loboi; the van then also served as a regular
matatu for locals along the way. Allegedly, there should be matatus
running from Marigat to Loboi in the evening and other way in the
morning but I would not bet on it; when we were leaving the matatu did
not come (allegedly it had been hired for other route) and we had got a
ride with a car from our hotel for Ksh200 per person. You can also try
hitch a ride from the fork from the main route to Loboi (about 2 km
south Marigat) but we have seen hardly any traffic on that side road.
Accommodation:
Zakayos Hotel (phone: 0722153582, zakayos@yahoo.com), a rather small
room with two beds, fan (quite needed there), and bathroom attached,
Ksh600 per day. Reasonable place run by a friendly and rather ambitious
young owner trying to establish his hotel (while his only local rival,
the Papyrus Inn, is out of business for reconstruction - very slow one
from what we have seen). I can recommend the place without hesitation -
the owner tried to arrange whatever we asked for and had not been too
pushy when offering other services (he arranged rental of two bicycles
from locals for Ksh350 each per day and a ride by hotel car to
Marigat).
Food: There is a small restaurant attached to the Zakayos Hotel with quite a good chef willing to prepare meal according to your request, I can recommend it but remember to haggle for the price of meals. Next to the Park gate there is also a kiosk, bar and small restaurant.
Lake Nakuru NP
We have done a half-day game drive there and found it very good and rewarding. The Park includes grassy areas, thorn bush, acacia forest, and the lake itself - another of the Rift Valley soda lakes. The Park hosts usual variety of African animals, both herbivorous and carnivorous, with the exception of missing elephants (when introduced they would likely eat all vegetation there quite quickly); local speciality is a great number of rhinoceroses. The Park is not too big and completely fenced and you are quite guaranteed to see majority of the plentiful wildlife living there in a half-day game drive. This half-day game drive gives you quite complete idea what all the safaris are about while not spending too much money.
Park visit tips: The Park is one of top Kenyan parks with entry fee of US$40 per person per day; it can be visited only in a car and is open from 6:00 to 19:00. We arranged our game drive with the travel agency in the Nakuru town adjoining the Park - there are several agencies in Nakuru and it is good to shop around to get the best deal. We have chosen Spoonbill Tours & Safaris and had no complaints - we paid Ksh5000 for a jeep (small 3-seater with roof which could be opened) which we had for ourselves from 12:30 to 19; the price included the park fee for us two and car entry fee; our driver/guide knew the Park well and succeeded to show us all the featured animals like rhinoceroses, buffalos, zebras, gazelles, giraffes, warthogs, and baboons, and also local trade-mark tree-climbing lions and even a leopard (a really nice one). The Spoonbill Tours & Safaris reside in the Carnation Hotel (kibichoke@yahoo.com) and is owned by a very businesslike man named Gibson - he is quite tough businessman but very effective - we have signed for our game drive at about 12 and he was able to organize the car in a half hour. We have also contacted two other travel agencies: the Pega Tours & Travel Agency offered slightly cheaper drive (Ksh4500) in a typical safari van with open roof - looked OK but they could not organize the drive on a short notice; the Crater Travel looked rather bad - rather uninterested, asked slightly more, incapable of any quick action. Though it is generally recommended to do the game drives in the morning we have opted for an afternoon drive and found it a good decision as we have still seen all usual animals and not so many other cars (others seemed to follow the recommendation).
Transport: Matatu from Marigat to Nakuru - easy, goes very frequently.
Accommodation: Carnation Hotel, single room with a bed wide enough for two with bathroom attached for Ksh700 with a single breakfast; room was nothing special but OK for one night (we have checked the Mount Sinai Hotel first and found it cheaper but rather unattractive).
Food: There is a lot of restaurants in Nakuru, many has a menu with quite promisingly looking offers. We had time just for one lunch in the restaurant at the ground floor of the Mount Sinai Hotel, food was quite good.
Lake Naivasha
We have spent 2.5
days there and found it very relaxing, diverse, and interesting -
visited the Crater Lake Game Sanctuary and Hell's Gate NP. The lake
Naivasha itself is freshwater and so quite different from soda lakes,
you can observe there e.g. pelicans and hippos. We have rented bicycles
and explored around the lake on them.
Crater Lake visit tips:
We have spent a day going by bicycle to the Crater Lake Game Sanctuary,
hiking there and then going back by bicycle again. The Sanctuary is not
a National Park and so admission there is much cheaper (several hundred
Ksh, forgotten how much). The Sanctuary consists of a small soda lake
at the bottom of an old volcano surrounded by a private game reserve.
Around the lake there are several trails which you can explore yourself
on foot; the trails lead along the crater rim offering views of broad
surroundings and through the forest encircling the lake. It is quite
nice to spent half a day wandering around - we have seen some
flamingoes on the lake, and colobus monkeys and some birds in the
forest. There is a small resort on the lake bank but the guests seemed
too lazy to venture too far; it was surprisingly difficult to find the
rim trail start - it was quite overgrown and visibly not much used. It
is about 20 km to get there from Fisherman's Camp along the road, first
paved and then unpaved, and it takes a good day trip to go there and
back by bicycle (you can get a ride in matatu even with a bicycle up to
Kongoni village 17 km from Fisherman's Camp). Kongoni village itself is
quite interesting example of an African village rather off
civilization. The land along the road on the lake shore is mostly
private (and forbidden to enter) but there are still some properties
for sale where you can get to the lake and observe the life there.
Hell's Gate NP visit tips:
We have spent a day bicycling around the Park; it can be visited on
foot or bicycle and is open from 6:00 to 19:00, daily entry fee is
US$20 per person and Ksh100 per bicycle. The Park features some
volcanic phenomena, cliffs and gorges, and includes also some areas of
grassland and thorn bush. There is one main trail from the Elsa Gate to
the Central Tower and some backcountry trails - we went the longer way
along the Twiga Circuit and Buffalo Circuit to the Central Tower and
saw some zebra and eland antelopes along the way. Bicycling has shown
to be rather difficult there as there was a thick layer of dust all
along the roads which made it almost impossible to go up- or downhill.
The worst was the condition of the main direct road from the Elsa Gate
to Central Tower - the road was slightly downhill from the Elsa Gate
and we gave up the original plan to go other way back (as planned) and
escaped from the Central Tower along paved roads to the Ol Karia Gate
(but be warned, the part of the Park from the Central Tower to the Ol
Karia Gate is no "national park" due to heavy exploitation of volcanic
heat by a geothermal project consisting of kilometres of pipelines all
around). After the experience I would recommend to give up on bicycles
and go on foot (to the Elsa Gate you can get by matatu) - I would
suggest to take Twiga Circuit along the Ol Dubai Camp and Buffalo
Circuit to the Central Tower and from there go back to the Elsa Gate
along the main direct road. Allow whole day for the trip and take a lot
of water as it is quite hot there. Near the Central Tower there is an
entrance to some gorges where you can walk down and take a side trip
under high cliffs.
Transport:
1. Frequent matatus run from Nakuru to Naivasha town and from Naivasha town along the south lakeshore up to Kongoni.
2.
Bicycles can be rented at many places along the lake shore - we rented
ours at the Fish Eagle Inn for Ksh400 each per day, the bikes were
reasonable good mountain bicycles.
Accommodation:
Fish Eagle Inn (fish@africaonline.co.ke), camped at their campsite on
the lake shore for three nights in our own tent, had access to shower
with hot water from a boiler (in the evening water ran out quickly),
paid Ksh220 per person per night (last night Ksh200 after complaining
about unavailable hot water). Fish Eagle Inn campsite offers the same
as the neighbouring Fisherman's Camp for about the same price - we have
chosen it as it offered acces to hotel facilities including swimming
pool (never used it anyway) and because it was more empty and quiet
when we arrived; on the third day a sort of local christian youth camp
arrived and it ruined things out (kids have obviously never encountered
hot water and they made sure there was none available any time along
the day) and there were also some local golden youth drunkars making a
lot of noise - it is question of luck which of the two camps is better
but I would pick Fisherman's next time. The nights there were
pleasantly cool and mostly quiet - you could hear hippos grazing just
behind the security fence on the lake shore.
Food: There are several shops and some restaurants in a neighbouring village (more just a crossroad on the main road); we ate at the bar/restaurant on the southeast corner where they have been able to prepare some custom-made vegetarian food.
Mount Kenya
We
have done a five-day trek in the Mount Kenya NP without using any
guides or porters, going up along the Chogoria route and down along the
Sirimon route and sleeping in our own tent - we have chosen the
Chogoria route for ascent as it was the best for acclimatization and
the Chogoria-Sirimon routes as they were supposed to be best regarding
landscape, vegetation and wildlife. We had no intention to climb any of
the Mt. Kenya summits, our goal was to see the unique landscape and
vegetation of the place. There are several vegetation zones on Mt.
Kenya and the heath zone and esp. the alpine zone feature unique plants
endemic to the African high mountains, namely lobelias and groundsels.
The trek was a highlight of our Kenya trip and our definite advice
would be not to skip it when in Kenya - yet allow enough time for
proper acclimatization, otherwise it would be more a struggle than joy
(the safe rate of ascent is not to sleep more than 500 m higher than
previous night when not used to the given altitude before).
Trek itinerary:
Day 1. We started
from Chogoria village at about 9:30 - there had been some touts there
offering guiding and portering but they had not been too pushy and even
offered some free advices when convinced that we were not going to give
them any job. It took us whole day of slow continuous climbing along
the dirt road to reach the Park gate next the Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge
(3000 m asl). The initial 6-km walk to the Park boundary led through
rather nice farmland with tea and other crop fields, then we were
passing trough mountain rainforest (lots of rather big trees overgrown
with ferns at first and then with moss and lichen) and in the end
trough bamboo forest (strange atmosphere full of cracking noise) - nice
hike allowing to meet and enjoy the forest. It was rather long, tough
day but manageable after previous acclimatization in the highlands
(Kakamega has the altitude of 1800 m, Nakuru and Naivasha 1900 m asl).
Camped at a very good campsite next the Park ranger's office.
Day 2. With the
aim to ensure proper acclimatization we did not climbed just to the
normally used campsite at the roadhead (3300 m asl) but continued on to
the Lake Ellis (3500 m asl). The original plan was to fork from the
main trail and go along the side trail directly to the Lake Ellis, but
right after the short-rain season the trails became overegrown and we
missed the side trail and reached unexpectedly the roadhead campsite
- from there we used a compass and found our way to the lake
trough grassland along round ridges. The hike took a good part of the
day. We were passing through zone of small and giant heathers at first
and then reached the alpine zone with short grasses and first tree
groundsels (some of them just have been in flowers - very nice). Yet,
the lake Ellis itself we did not found especially scenic. Camped next
the lake on a rather rough surface full of grass clusters.
Day 3. We went
southwest along usually well visible trail till reaching the main trail
and then continued along it to the Minto's Hut (4300m asl). We were
passing through the alpine zone with short grasses, occasional low
heathers and lots of groundsels and lobelias. We were getting higher
above the plateau surrounding the Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge and had nice
views down and around. At the end of the day some heavy clouds gathered
and it started raining for the first time of our trek; the rain became
rather heavy and we reached the camp in a thick fog. Camped next a
small lake near the hut on barren surface among huge grass clusters.
The rain continued with interruptions all the night.
Day 4. We started
up in an occasional drizzle and thick fog, visibility was mostly very
low, and before we got to the highest point of our trek at Simba Col
(4620 m asl) touches of snow appeared. Fortunately our route was
relatively straightforward and we could also follow footprints of some
people coming from their sunrise excursions to Point Lenana; it would
have been quite difficult to go along any other trail - the fork to the
Austrian hut and Naro Moru route was indicated but we did not notice
any other of the forks sketched in our map, not even the fork to Point
Lenana summit. This part was mostly barren with no vegetation and we
were glad to start down along the Sirimon route; almost right below
Simba Col first lobelias and then also groundsels started to appear
again, and lots of hyraxes too (they have been rather scarce along
the Chogoria route); the rain stopped as well. We went down along a
broad and nice valley rather densely overgown with lobelias and
groundsels, past the Shipton's hut and camp. At the point where the
trail started to traverse to the right over the ridge (at some some
3800m asl) we camped on the deposit on the bank of a stream. Once
again there were some showers of rain during the night and in the
morning we could see snow lying up on the mountain (so we had been
lucky to get over just before it came).
Day 5. We went
steadily down all the way to just ahead of the Park boundary near
Sirimon village. The clearly visible trail went through heathers first
to the ridge and then down along a broad swampy plateau to the Old
Moses hut. From there we went down along a dirt road going down along a
ridge trough rainforest - rounded valleys and slopes on the road sides
made possible views of distant trees and forest canopy, we also saw
quite a few birds. We reached the Park gate at about 16 just shortly
after start of heavy tropical rainstorm only to find that the Park
ranger's office was deserted - we had to wait for about 1.5 hours for a
ranger to show up and sign us off (she was explaining shamelessly that
it was too cold for her to work and so she went to sleep to nearby
barracks ??!). After that we passed about half of the 4 km remaining to
the park boundary and found a campsite in the forest.
Park visit tips:
The Park fees are US$70 per person per first three days and US$20 per
person per each additional day, the fee paid is valid for 24 hours from
the time of payment indicated on the ticket (check correctness of the
record), there is no fee for camping; it is possible to pay just the
initial minimum 3-day fee when entering the Park and pay the rest when
leaving - better take advantage of this possibility as nobody is going
to give you anything back if you are leaving sooner. When going up
along the Chogoria route the Park gate and fee payment place is about
29 km and 1500 m up from Chogoria village ( the place you arrive by
public transport) while the Park boundary is just 6 km from there; many
people rent a jeep for this trip and so even if you walk you can always
say to ranger that you have arrived on car and save yourself paying fee
for whole day in the park (we arrived at 19 and had this time noted on
the tickets while passing the Park boundary at about 11) - on other
routes this distance between the Park boundary and gate is much
shorter. Parties of two are a minimum on the mountain and so if you are
alone you are requested to hire a guide; everybody going in has to sign
in at the gate and indicate his/her general plan - if not leaving
at around the expected time the search is started (better do not try to
slip out without paying the remaining fee as there are rumours of
thorough searches for the culprits who had been chased all the way to
Nairobi and rewarded with a very heavy penalty to pay for the search).
All the guidebooks maintain that the eastern and southern slopes of Mt.
Kenya are much more humid than the northern and western slopes but we
have witnessed a complete opposite - the Chogoria route was rather dry
with water available usually just in lakes, the Sirimon route was quite
humid and often even swampy and there was no shortage of water
almost anywhere along the route.
Transport:
1. Our goal was to get to Embu. First leg of the transfer was obvious
and easy and we took one of the frequent matatus leaving from the
crossroad near the Fish Eagle Inn for Naivasha town. To get to Embu or
Meru from there you can either go to Nakuru and take a direct matatu
from there, or go trough Nairobi and Thika. There were lots of touts in
Naivasha and it appeared quite difficult to find the best way - in the
end we opted for a just-leaving matatu which - as they kept assuring us
- was going directly to Thika; sure as hell, it went just to Nairobi
and we were hearded to another matatu going for Thika thus being
stucked in Nairobi traffic jam twice; from Thika there was then no
problem to get another matatu for Embu and Meru. After experiencing
that I believe now that we should go back to Nakuru and get that direct
matatu from there to Embu and Meru (it goes the other way via Nyahururu
so we would be spared of Nairobi zoo and even saw some new parts of
Kenya). Other better option would be to take matatu from Naivasha to
Nairobi and from there a direct matatu to Embu and Meru. Anyway, even
the way we have taken was feasible and we got to Embu around 16.
2. Our reason
for going to Embu was that we needed to find a place to leave our spare
things before starting our climb - Embu looked as a good spot in our
original plan which included going down from Mt. Kenya along the Naro
Moru route (we changed that plan after some discussion with locals at
Chogoria village and never regretted that) as it seemed to be easier to
get from Naro Moru to Embu than to Meru. When taking down the Sirimon
route, it would be naturally much more convenient to leave our stuff at
Meru. Anyway, it was easy to get from Embu to Chogoria as there are
frequent matatus running along the route from Embu to Meru where
Chogoria is a stop in about middle way (so it would be as easy to get
to Chogoria from Meru). When going back after getting down from the
mountain we first had to take matatu to Meru (quite frequent as well)
and from there another matatu to Embu.
3. When going
up, it is possible to hire a jeep at Chogoria village and got a ride up
to the Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge (but be warned that it would not be do you
any good regarding acclimatization). Also when going down you may found
car available at the Old Moses hut or phone for one.
4. Another good
reason for choosing Embu as a base was that there were direct buses
running from there to Mombasa as our next goal was the coast (still,
these buses originated at Meru). There are about four different
companies serving the route from Embu (Meru) to Mombasa, all the buses
go overnight. After some exploration we chose company named Autobus
which used big Scania buses which we considered better for an overnight
travel on Kenyan potholed roads - price was Ksh1000 per person, the bus
was supposed to leave at 19:30 (due to heavy rain it arrived and left
about an hour late) and got to its Mombasa office at 7:30 (a rather
unpleasant surprise was that the bus served as a truck and had a huge
pile of sacks on its roof - when we got to Mombasa the bus went first
to the city market to unload its cargo which took about an hour from
6:30).
Accommodation:
1. Kwiremia Rest House at Embu (right in the city center on the corner
of Mama Ngina and Kubukubu Rd.), a reasonable room with two beds,
attached bathroom and hot water shower, only Ksh400 per day. Very
friendly place where there was no problem to leave our spare stuff at
their office for no fee - when we arrived six days later we have no
problem to collect it again. As we were leaving the same evening we
hired a single room (for Ksh250 per night) for several hours to repack
and get a shower after our trek - they might have been willing to give
us a discount but we did not ask for that as we liked the place and
were grateful for their looking after our stuff. Before finding the
Kwiremia Rest House we checked the Eden Guesthouse recommended in our
LP Guide but their rooms were small and with shared bathroom only and
they even asked for a fee Ksh100 per day to store our stuff.
2. When trekking on
Mt. Kenya we slept in our own tent - it was OK, cold at night had not
been too bad even for our tent built rather for a good ventilation in
the tropics than for high mountains with temperature droping close to
zero. By Park regulation, it is allowed to camp just about anywhere but
it is not always easy to find a good place to camp especially on the
Chogoria route where availability of water is limited to known camps
and high lying lakes. Besides the overpriced Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge there
is no accomodation on the Chogoria route. Rather different situation is
on the Sirimon route where there are three huts well spread along the
route and run by a private company; the huts are supposed to be well
equipped and offering - for reputedly still reasonable rate -
some rooms and beds in dormitories (but we have never tried them).
Food:
1. There is quite a few restaurants in Embu and some of them offer even
one or two vegetarian dishes. We have eaten at the restaurants of the
Morning Glory Hotel and the Highway Court Hotel and been reasonanbly
satisfied; the former one is slightly better and even offers take-away
packaging (we used it for bus overnight trip and it was OK too). Embu
apeared to be surprisingly lively and well organized town - it has that
authentic feel of the town rarely visited by tourists and we quite liked it.
2. We have used
our own camping stove when on the mountain and it was quite necessary
especially on the Chogoria route. Of course, you may get some food on
the Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge and the lodges along the Sirimon route but I
am sure it would not be cheap.
Watamu
We
have spent 9 days there and mostly had a good time - besides enjoying
the sea we have visited Gede ruins, Mida Creek, and Arabuko-Sokoke NP.
Watamu village tips:
Watamu village comprises two different parts - developing, rather
unfriendly resort area and still surviving original fishing village;
both parts have quite different feel. The place is slowly being overrun
by package tourists (but they typically stay at their resorts and
beaches) and especially by rather wealthy expatriates who built their
villas all along the coast (for some reason mostly Italians). These
expatriates behave as if they own all the village including the locals
and try to enjoy life of the long-past colonists setting the life norms
there - you can see all the typical signs: elderly white ladies
trailing behind their black servant laden with groceries, pensioners
fighting the time with very substantially younger local partners, and
especially general atmosphere of rudeness and disrespect to any local
customs - quite disgusting and depressive spectacle; and this kind of
visitors naturally attracts the worst of the locals who are especially
pushy and quite rude when not getting what they want, i.e. your money.
But do not let yourself to be driven away by all this - just next but
separated as though by an invisible border there still is a lively
fishing village with friendly locals going about their normal life. You
can see fishermen seeing about their small dhows and returning from the
sea every evening with big fish, and their wives taking care about
their households - they do not bother you when you walk by and do not
try to overcharge you for everything. Concentrate on this friendly part
and ignore the other and you will have a good time.
Watamu sea and marine-life tips:
There is a barrier reef all along the coast around Watamu not too far
from the shore, corals there are alive and nice and attract a lot of
fish. Several kilometers long stretch of the shelf to the south from
Watamu up to the Mida Creek estuary composes the Watamu Marine NP where
you are supposed to pay a daily entry fee of US$10 per person whenever
you take a look under the water surface (swimming is free); yet
the shelf directly in front the village and up north is out of the park
boundaries and completely free. There are three beaches near Watamu,
from north to south: Watamu Beach, Blue Bay, and Turtle Bay beaches.
The difference between low and high tides at Watamu is more than three
meters (there are two cycles of low and high tides during the day) and
the currents are quite strong in the middle of tide changes and so you
need to give care to them - it is very usefull to get the tide table
and plan your time (try to find it on the internet or ask at the Park
office or any of the resorts). Seawater temperature is quite pleasant
and it is quite possible to swim for an hour or two without getting
cold through.
1. Swimming: At the low tide it
is rather difficult to enjoy swimming at the Watamu Beach (long walk to
the sea on top of dead sharp coral) and Blue Bay (virtually without
water), it is better at the Turtle Bay and OK to the south of it. Be
carefull after the high tide as the seaward current is quite strong.
2. Exploring during
low tide: Around the low-tide time the sea retracts substantially and
leave behind large areas of very shallow water and some tidal pools. It
is quite interesting to wander around and observe marine life at close
range. You can see star fish, sea cucumbers, all kinds of small fish
and even occasional moray eels (there are at least two families of
moray eels staying permanently at certain holes on the southern side of
the Turtle Bay - local touts will show you these places in their effort
to get you sign for their snorkelling trips).
3. Snorkelling: There are several
places to go - usual way is to be taken by boat for a fee straight to
some good spot (hopefully) but it puts you at the mercy of boatsmen
which are difficult to control. There are organized snorkelling trips
to the place called Coral Gardens in the Watamu Marine NP which put
together as many people as possible to the so called "glass-bottom"
boats (normal motor boats with a very small and ridiculously
untransparent glass plate at their bottom) - you can join either
by signing in in any of the local resorts (for a fixed fee) or try to
haggle a better price (not too easy) with one of many touts approaching
you on the Turtle Bay beach; the price includes a Park fee and you get
some 1.5 hour of snorkelling (of course, for a rather high fee you
can get a trip all by yourself and about anywhere). The other, less
passive way is to hire a local fisherman and get to the reef on a dhow,
local sailing boat - you probably get a better price and a sailing trip
on the dhow is nice experience by itself. We haggled about the first
option but gave up after finding it overpriced and over-organized; then
we settled for the second option and went to a reef outside the Park;
and this way we have found a rather good spot for snorkelling quite
close to the shore where we could swim to straight from the beach. You
can find this spot just south of the two small islets northernmost from
the Watamu Beach - just walk there along the exposed beach prior to the
low tide and swim straight to the sea; a quite large coral-garden area
with small coral pillars and coral boulders is not more that some
hundred meters from the shore and not too deep, you can find there
several different kinds of coral and observe lots of various fish. Also
those famous Coral Gardens in the Watamu Marine NP can be visited
without a boat, by simply swimming from the beach - it is a large
2-km long strip about 200 to 300 meters from the shore south the Turtle
Bay starting just opposite the huge rock standing on the beach; there
are usually some boats full of snorkellers hanging about there; the
Coral Gardens again consist in coral pillars and coral boulders but
these are little bigger and also the fish living there are bigger -
especially big coral fish you can see at the spot marked by a banch of
buoys about 300 meters from the shore (shoal of fish living there is
often feeded by snorkellers and the fish venture right to your nose).
When going there on your own you can also avoid paying the Park fee -
it is highly unlikely any ranger would bother to check along beaches
and if he comes you can always pay him. Another good spot for
snorkelling is inside the Blue Bay just in front of the huge rock in
the bay entry during the high tide; the Bay is rather shallow and you
do not see much fish there but there is this small area where a bunch
of fish lives including a lion fish, grouper, and big moray eel - we
were visiting them every day and they were always on the same place and
let us come very close. When snorkelling, do not forget to take at
least a T-shirt and better some trousers too as it is very easy to get
thoroughly sunburnt.
4. Diving: There are
four diving centers at Watamu all attached to the local resorts. The
prices for diving trips are quite high there in comparison to what I
have encountered in South Asia or the Caribbean; all the centers
generally accept walk-in divers but as they are focused on resident
divers they typically ask lots of money for equipment rental. I did a
2-dive trip with the Upinde Diving Center attached to the Aquarius
Resort for EUR70 including equipment rental cost and that was the
cheapest deal to get at Watamu (their equipment looked OK but my 2-nd
stage was slightly leaking which cut both my dives by about 15 minutes
- very annoying !!). The dives were OK but nothing special - the
corals there are in a relatively good shape (mostly hard, almost no
soft corals there) and you can see usual variety of reef fish and some
scarcer creatures too (seen e.g. turtle, stone fish, big moray).
Considering the cost I would say that diving at Watamu is not really
worth it.
Gede ruins visit tips:
We have spent half a day wandering around the ruins of long deserted
Swahili town of Gede. The ruins themselves are not too exciting but they
are located within the forest and the visit is quite interesting - lots
of baobabs there and you can watch some monkeys and lots of nice
butterflies; the fee is Ksh400 per person (if I remember correctly).
The ruins are just next a little village of Gede which is interesting
by itself - being just 10 minutes by matatu from Watamu it is a typical
African poor village without any visible influence of tourist hordes
dwelling so close to it.
Mida Creek visit tips:
We went for a short trip to Mida Creek, actually a sea gulf featuring a
lush mangove forest. It is rather interesting place where you can
observe lots of waterfowl. We got to its shore along the trail from the
main Mombasa-Malindi road but you can see it just as well just next the
road going south from the Watamu village.
Arabuko-Sokoke NP visit tips:
We have spent just about an hour in this park which can be visited on
foot or bicycle and the daily entry fee should be US$20 per person (we
have just ventured in along one of many roads passing through it and accessible from the main Mombasa-Malindi road and
thus avoided paying the fee). The Park features a large area of the coastal
forest which we had not found especially spectacular after seeing the
rainforest in Kakamega or on Mt. Kenya - the trees there were not too
tall and we did not see almost any wildlife.
Transport:
It was fairly easy to get to Watamu from Mombasa and back. The Autobus
bus from Embu to Mombasa terminated on Abdel Nasser Rd., a main Mombasa
hub of cheaper bus companies, and we almost immediately got seats on a
Tahmeed Coach bus heading for Malindi for Ksh200 per person; there are
several companies serving that route. We got off at Gede junction, several
kilometres before Malindi, and took a matatu from there to Watamu for
Ksh40 (they run very frequently). When going back, take matatu from
Watamu to Gede junction; from there to Mombasa you can either
take another matatu or flag down any of passing buses (more comfortable
option).
Accommodation: We arrived to Watamu at the end of December and so finding a room turned out to be rather difficult. There are three cheap hotels on the main road at Watamu and we have found none of them especially friendly and attractive. At first I got a promise of a room at the Malog Guesthouse but till we arrived there with our luggage (in some 10 minutes) they just gave the room to another guy who probably agreed to pay more (!!?). After that we settled for a room at the Dante hotel (a double room with attached bathroom and fan for Ksh700 per night) but we have not been too happy there - the hotel had rather nice yard but the staff was not too friendly and every-evening power outages were quickly changing the room to a sauna; when we were awaken in the middle of night by a receptionist who rather rudely demanded payment for that night, which she forgot to ask for during the day, we had enough. We moved out of that tourist area to the Marijani resort which was situated at the unspoilt part of the village and we were quite happy there - the resort were offering only rather expensive rooms but they let us camp at their nice garden and provided us with an access to our own bathroom for Ksh400 per night; it was very friendly and secure place (there was a guard at the gate who opened only to people staying there) close to our favourite Watamu Beach and I would like to recommend it as the most pleasant accomodation at Watamu; we could often observe several 20-cm long colorful lizards at our corner of the garden and quickly started to call Marijani "the place where even lizards are friendly".
Food: There is a well equipped and friendly supermaket called Mama Lucy's in the middle of Watamu where you can buy all the supplys. Often, we have eaten at a rather good restaurant called the Roasters just behind the Mama Lucy's supermarket which offered reasonably prices and mostly cooked quite good food - especially fish and some vegetarian food. They were also opened to preparing some custom-made vegetarian food (but sometimes they had problem not to forget to do the changes agreed on).
Mombasa
We
have spent two days there and found the city interesting and relatively
friendly - yet, we have not ventured too far beyond the centre and the
Old Town. The Old Town still kept the unique atmosphere of Swahili
seaport and we had a good time there wandering around in narrow
tortuous streets.
Transport: see Watamu description
Accommodation:
New People's Hotel, double room with a fan and a bathroom attached for
Ksh700 per night; chosen mainly because of its proximity to bus depots
on Abdel Nasser Rd. - it was OK and good enough for the price.
Food: There are quite a few of cheap restaurants in Mombasa Old Town and in the adjoining area and many can present some sort of a written menu. We can recommend a restaurant at the basement of the Ocean Crown Hotel on Abdel Nasser Rd., nearly opposite to the New People's Hotel; they offer a rather extensive menu and cook their meals real well.
Nairobi
We
have spent two days there and found the city a quite dull conglomerate
of rather disparate parts without atmosphere and common expression. It
does not feel unsafe during a day but it is good idea to stay alert -
at Taveta Rd., a small street between Accra and Latema Rd., my wife
suddenly found an alien hand in its pocket in full daylight. We spent
our time wandering around the River Rd. area (lively transport
hub) and saw also the centre around Kenyatta Ave and City Hall Way
(banks and expensive hotels district) and ventured to the Westlands
area too (a would-be American suburb area without any spirit
whatsoever). Regarding the last minute shopping (we have been
interested mainly in wood carvings) I can recommend the souvenir market
at the Westlands area where you will likely be the only shopper and so
be able to bargain for a good price; there are some things to buy at
the City
Market too but it is much more difficult to get a good price there as
you have difficult competition from wealthy package tourist capable to
go for the first asking price.
Transport:
1. There are about ten companies offering bus transport from Mombasa to
Nairobi just on Abdel Nasser Rd. - just walk around, compare the asking
prices, and try to bargain the price down; the buses are about the same
and it is difficult to find any other reliable feature to distinguish
the best one. We have chosen the Exciting Coach (no too fitting name)
and got the tickets for Ksh650 each. My recommendation is to take a
daylight bus as you get a chance to have a look at the scenery and
possibly some wildlife at the Tsavo NP, which the road is passing
through (we have been lucky to see not only some zebras but also a
lioness just trying to hunt down a zebra colt). The journey takes about
9 hours and feels really long.
2. Airport transport: From the airport
you can always take a taxi for some price Ksh 1000-1500 depending on
the daytime and your bargaining skill; other option is to arrange an
airport pick-up deal with some hotel prior coming (we have done that
with the Hotel Greton for US$20, i.e. about Ksh1400, and been glad to
save some nerves at the beginning of our trip). When going home
well-seasoned after your trip you may feel ready for an adventure -
then you may consider taking the infamous bus No. 34 - we did that and
it was real fun. The bus (run by Nairobi municipal bus company called
City Hoppa) leaves from the bus stops in front of Ambassadeur Hotel
on Moi Ave - there are many buses leaving from there. If you go on
Saturday and esp. Sunday it is a piece of cake - there are several
No.-34 buses waiting there empty and you just board the first one and
go (nice and easy). The situation is dramatically different on
weekdays: there are some six or so very orderly queues standing there
leading from nowhere to nowhere; you need to ask people in the queues
which one is for your bus No. 34 as there is absolutely no sign. When
you solve this puzzle you just go to the end of your queue and wait -
in the evening you typically do not get into the first bus No. 34 and
probably not even to the second; just move on and wait, there is a bus
every half an hour. When you finally get in you are fine (the bus takes
only as many passengers as there are seats available for them); its
Ksh40 per person to the airport (when there are two of you with big
luggage you are asked to pay for the third seat which is very fair as
you really use it) and it takes about an hour to get to the airport in usual
Nairobi evening traffic jam.
Accommodation:
1. Hotel Greton (gretonreservation@hotmail.com), double room with a
bathroom attached and hot water for US$20 with breakfasts. We used this
hotel for the first night of our Kenya trip because of a possibility to
contact it by email and their willingness to book for us the Akamba bus
tickets from Nairobi to Kakamega (Akamba depot is very close to this
hotel); they also offered to pick us up at the airport at midnight for
another US$20. The room was OK (although nothing special considering
the price) and the bus ticket booking and airport pick-up were carried
out as agreed.
2. Nawas Hotel (on
the corner of Latema Rd. and River Rd.), single room with a bed wide
enough for two, bathroom attached and hot water for Ksh700 per night
with a single breakfast; room was nothing special but OK for two
nights, no problem with storing our luggage after check-out time. We
checked the Iqbal Hotel before and found out that it was closed
for good; then we checked the New Kenya Lodge that looked OK but was
full.
Food: There are a lot of cheap restaurants in Nairobi; we have been satisfied, both by menu and quality, at the G&R Restaurant at Biashara St. near the City Market, and at the Middland Restaurant (if I still remember the name correctly) at River Rd. near Gaberone Rd.
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When preparing for my trips I always gather from the internet information about each place to be visited and before I go I put it unsorted into a single document that I print out and use it during the trip. I still have these documents prepared for my Kenya trip and I can send them to you. If anybody is interested please see the information on my Introductory Page.
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