TreasureCrest - Quality, Captive Bred Rhacodactylus

Common names:  Common names used for R.trachyrhynchus in the english language include, but are not limited to; Trachyrhynchus, Trachy, Rough-Snout, Rough-Snouted gecko, Rough-Snouted Giant gecko, New Caledonian Rough-Snouted gecko.

Natural History and Distribution: Rhacodactylus trachyrhynchus, otherwise known as ‘The New Caledonian Rough-Snouted Gecko’ or ‘Trachy’ is the species of Rhacodactylus which is most rarely kept in captivity. The Rough-Snouted gecko is one of only a few livebearing geckos in the world, and is in fact the largest of all livebearing geckos. Like the other Rhacodactylus, the Trachy is a semi-arboreal species of lizard, native only to New Caledonia and the tiny islands that surround it. As with all New Caledonian animals, exportation of wild specimens is forbidden, and so all Trachys available in the pet trade are captive bred, originating from an original import before the ban was introduced.

Rhacodactylus trachyrhnchus is divided into 2 subspecies; Rhacodactylus trachyrhynchus trachyrhynchus (The Greater Rough-Snout) and Rhacodactylus trachyrhynchus trachycephalus (The Lesser Rough-Snout). As the common names imply, R.trachyrhynchus trachyrhynchus attains a larger adult size than R.trachyrhynchus trachycephalus. Lesser Rough-Snouts also tend to have a shorter, stumpier snout. In captivity, the Lesser Rough-Snout is more commonly kept than the Greater Rough-Snout (although both species are very rarely kept), however in the wild, this is trend reversed, with R.t.trachycephalus having a much smaller distribution.         Young R.t.trachycephalus, courtesy of Mandy Cardarelli

Unfortunately, relatively little is known about R.Trachyrhynchus' natural history. Greater Rough-Snouts are said to have a scattered distribution, occuplying the primary forests of Southern and Central Grand Terre (mainland New Caledonia).  Lesser Rough-Snouts have a much less known distribution, which is most likely very limited. The information given about the distribution of R.t. trachycephalus in the two most comprehensive Rhacodactylus books, 'Rhacodactylus; a complete guide to the care, selection and maintenance by Vosjoli, Fast and Repashy 2003' and 'Rhacodactylus; Biology, Natural History and Husbandry by Robert Seipp and Friedrich Wilhelm Henkel 2000' is confusing, perhaps incorrect and incomplete. In 1995, De Vosjoli and Fast reported the 'rediscovery' of a specimen of Lesser Rough-Snout from Island E (New Caledonia). Seipp and Henkel report populations on the Ilse of Pines also. 

The Perfect Pet Gecko?: The Rough-Snout is a large gecko, requiring a suitably large enclosure when adult, and is a very slow maturing species (taking as long as 5 years to become sexually mature) which produces young only twice each year. These factors, along with others which I will discuss further in the ‘breeding’ section of the caresheet mean that R.trachyrhynchus remains a very rarely kept species and very expensive to buy. The temperament of Rough-Snouts is often flighty and fast, especially whilst young, however I have spoken to keepers who say that with regular handling from a young age, the Trachy will often tame with age and have even been described as being as calm and placid as a Crested gecko! Overall, the Rough-Snouted gecko can be a challenging and extremely rewarding addition to an experienced gecko collection, but is not a species to be attempted by novices.

Size: Rhacodactylus trachyrhynchus trachyrhynchus (the Greater Rough-Snout) are the second largest member of the Rhacodactylus, reaching up to 12 inches total length (7.5" SVL) . R.trachyrhynchus trachycephalus (the Lesser Rough-Snout) are somewhat smaller, reaching around 9-10 inches total length (5-5.5" SVL). Neonate Trachys measure around 3.5" total length. 

Lifespan: In captivity, the lifespan of these geckos is estimated to reach around 30years! Therefore these are not short-term, disposable pets and you will need to think about whether you can provide them with love and adequate attention and maintenance for their entire life BEFORE you buy one.  

Morphology: Rhacodactylus trachyrhynchus, the Rough-Snouted gecko's scientific name is derived from the greek 'Rhakos' meaning spine and Dactylus' meaning finger. The Rough-Snouted gecko is given its common name because of the enlarged scales which cover the end of its snout. The Trachy has a slender body shape and is generally more dull in colouration than some of the other Rhacodactylus (such as Crested and Gargoyle geckos).

The colour of a Trachyrhynchus will usually be various shades of green/grey to mottled brown and cream, often with circular, lighter coloured patches on its dorsum. There is some evidence of sexual dimorphism in Trachyrhynchus, with females showing more of a yellowish brown colouration with less spots.

Suspected female R.t.trachycephalus, photograph courtesy of Mandy Cardarelli.

 Being semi-arboreal, the Trachyrhynchus is equipped with sticky pads called 'lamellae' on each of its toes and the tip of its tail. These lamellae are made up of thousands of microscopic hairs called 'Setae', which then divide even further into 'Setules'. These hairs use simple form of molecular attraction called 'Van der Waals' forces to stick to any surface they come into contact with. The beauty of this design is that the gecko can break the attraction simply by altering the angle of its foot, so it can move effortlessly along vertical surfaces. The Trachyrhynchus is also equipped with a fully prehensile tail to help it move through the trees and branches of its habitat.

The Rough-Snouted gecko, like most geckos does not have proper eyelids; instead the gecko uses its long flexible tongue to lick its eyeballs throughout the day to keep it moist and dust free. The eye is covered by a single transparent scale which also offers a little protection.

Like almost all reptiles, the Trachy sheds it's skin periodically, the technical term for which is 'sloughing'. The sloughed skin is often eaten by the gecko and if you are lucky you can catch the gecko using its mouth to tear off the loose skin (as in the photograph on the right), or sometimes using wood or bark to help rub it off. A gecko that is about to shed will usually have a whitish appearance, and the skin will look papery and thin. Adequate levels of humidity are vital for the shedding process, and if humidity levels are too low the old skin can remain stuck to the gecko, particularly around the toes and tail. If this skin is allowed to build up it can result in serious problems including the necrosis (death) of the affected limbs.

The Rough-Snouted gecko is reported to have the strongest bite force of any Rhacodactylus gecko! So they are very of capable of giving a pretty nasty bite! In the wild, Trachyrhynchus are reported to eat not only fruits and insects (as with other Rhacodactylus) but also eat hatchling birds, rodents and lizards!   

Sexing: There is some dispute about the age at which R.trachyrhynchus reaches sexual maturity, with reports ranging from around 2 to 5years of age, although sex can be determined considerably earlier. As with all of the Rhacodactylus geckos, adult male R.trachyrhynchus have a pronounced hemipenal bulge at the base of the tail which can be used to distinguish between adult male and females. As mentioned previously, it has been suggested that Trachys are sexually dimorphic (that is, males and females look different). According to 'Rhacodactylus; a complete guide to the care, selection and maintenance by Vosjoli, Fast and Repashy 2003', males are darker in colouration, with large contrasting white spots, whereas females display more of a yellowish brown with less spots.

Throughout their lives, Rough-Snouted geckos change colour in varying degrees in response to stimulus such as activity, time of day, lighting, mood, stress and other unknown factors. This process is known as 'firing up' and the transformation can often be quite pronounced. Although all geckos are different, most people find that their geckos display the brightest and darkest colours at night.  

Behaviour: As Trachyrhynchus are so rarely kept, there is little solid information about their temperament and personalities. In general, Trachys are reported to be fast, fairly flighty animals, more similar in temperament to Sarasinorum. A number of keepers however report that with regular handling from a young age, their Rough Snouted geckos have become as placid as a Crested gecko!  Trachys are reported to be social, communal animals which can often be found in groups even in the wild.

Some of the behaviours their geckos display often seem to worry new owners (and often surprise experienced owners too!) and so I decided to include a brief section including some of the behaviours you can expect.

1) Sleeping patterns: Trachyrhynchus are nocturnal animals, so don’t be surprised if they don’t appear to be moving in the day! Like us, they are creatures of habit and so they will often pick a nice spot to sleep in during the day and return to the same spot every night! In the wild, Trachys are quite similar to R.leachianus, in that they are usually found sleeping inside the hollows of thick tree trunks. It is therefore important for you to include a suitable, thick, vertical log in the vivarium for them to sleep on, and plenty of spots which similate tree hollows. You don't have to be night owl to enjoy these animals however; the geckos will often awaken around mid-late evening, providing plenty of time to enjoy watching them, although this will depend on the levels of light and human activity in the room they are kept in. One Trachy keeper that I have spoken to says that she has occasionally seen her subadult Rough-Snout out in broad daylight.

2) Vocalisation: Rough-Snouted geckos are generally a very vocal species, and can even be heard 'chattering' for up to 30minutes while feeding as a group! Other times you are likely to hear Trachys making noises are when they're breeding or are in a bad mood! Most of the noises you will hear will be squeaks, clicks and a chattering sound.

3) Aggression: Although not a fiercely aggressive species, Trachyrhynchus certainly have their ‘off days’ and it is best not to get in a grumpy Trachy’s way! There are a few tell-tale signs that will let you know if your gecko is angry or stressed. The usual signs shown by Rough-Snouts are mouth gaping, and tail flicking and twitching. It may also make noises such as growls, clicks and squeaks. These are all signs of irritation and so you should leave the gecko alone. Being ovoviparous, Rough-Snouts show quite a high level of postnatal care to their offspring and can be quite protective, using any of the behaviours described above to deter intruders.

Alone or in groups?: Trachyrhynchus can be kept singly or in groups with equal success. Trachys are reported to be a very social reptile, often aggregating on the same tree, even in the wild. Rough-Snouts are not monogamous, and so groups of multiple females and a single male can be very successful. Close attention must be paid to groups to make sure all animals are getting access to food and space. Although some keepers have reported that multiple male Trachys can cohabit peacefully in a breeding group, there is an inherent risk with housing two males of any species together, and so this decision must be made on an individual basis, and very close attention paid at all times. The social behaviours and interactions between Rough-Snouts are some of the most unique and fascinating aspects of keeping this species, and so keeping a group of Trachys really allows the keeper to get the most enjoyment out of them.

Vivarium choices: Rough-Snouted Geckos are a quite large sized animal, capable of jumping surprising distances, and so they require a reasonable size enclosure. Trachyrhynchus vivarium should be around the same size as those for R.leachianus. As a general rule of thumb, the minimum dimensions for a enclosure housing a single Trachyrhynchus should be no less than 36" height, with around 18" width and 18" depth . Many keepers choose to use the largest size of Exo Terra glass terrarium for keeping subadult Trachyrhynchus, however for adults, more height is preferable.  Hatchling and sub-adult geckos may be kept in considerable smaller enclosures to ensure they have no trouble finding their food. I feel however that in most cases, this is unnecessary if the vivarium is well designed, although each situation should be dealt with in the way most appropriate to the individual, and so if you have a young Rough-Snouted Gecko in a large vivarium which is not eating well, you may want to consider moving it to a smaller enclosure.

Typical rainforest style vivarium.

Normally, a glass vivarium is used, not only as it enables you to see your animals, but because it aids retention of heat and humidity better than screen. Screen vivaria are often used in the US, however the UK climate is often too severe for them to be very effective and as Trachyrhynchus are particularly susceptible to dehydration, humidity in screen Rough-Snout vivaria may become problematic. A waterproof material such as PVC is usually added to some of the panels of screen vivaria so that humidity levels can be maintained more easily. Wood is not commonly used with these species as it is susceptible to moulding and warping and so may not last long-term. However if sealed well with appropriate waterproof varnish (such as Yacht Varnish) wooden vivariums can work very well. There is a now wide range of companies which will make custom wooden vivaria to your specific requirements, which  is particularly useful for larger species which outgrow the largest pre-made all glass vivaria (such as the Exo Terra glass terraria).

Being semi-arboreal, the vertically oriented vivariums are the best option.  

For hatchling geckos, you may prefer to use a smaller enclosure, and for these I would recommend either the 30X30X45cm (WXDxH) glass Exo terra terrarium, or medium/large standard height Exo terra faunariums.

Decoration: The Rough-Snout is semi-arboreal, and therefore, lots of branches and vines must be provided for them to climb on. A tall vivarium is better than a long one for the same reason. In the wild, R.trachyrhynchus tend to be found curled up in the hollows of trees. There is some suggestion that these hollows are essential for some part of the Trachyrhynchus' lifestyle and so features which simulate these hollows should be included in the vivarium. It is quite likely that female Rough-Snouts depend upon hollows to give birth in, and in captivity, the female will most often choose a secluded section of cork bark to raise the neonates for the first stages of life. 

Lots can be done with a vivarium, so much in fact that designing the tank can become as much fun as the geckos themselves! I have dedicated a separate section to describing some of the different options you have with regards to the vivarium as it is too much for this care sheet. 

Please click here for a link to the Vivarium Design section

The most essential things in the vivarium are listed below;

A Water Bowl - Water must be provided at ALL times. The water must be dechlorinated (no tap water) which can be done simply by using a water conditioner such as 'Exo terra's Aquavite'. Generally, the dish should be large enough for the gecko to sit in, but no deeper than the animals height at rest. This prevents accidental drowning. You may observe that your Rough-Snout prefers to drink from water droplets left on plants after misting, but a water bowl must still be provided so that water is accessible at all times. For geckos that prefer to drink from droplets, regular misting becomes even more important. Trachyrhynchus are the only Rhacodactylus gecko reported to soak and swim in water, and are often seen bathing in the water dish at night. Therefore, it is appropriate to provide Trachy's with a large, shallow water dish that they can fit comfortably in. Some keepers even create larger water sections to encourage swimming, however with any water area there is some risk of accidental drowning.

Climbing Material - Rough-Snouts are classified as semi-arboreal, spending the majority of their time climbing in the lower canopy of the primary rainforests of New Caledonia. Therefore, in order to be happy and active in the captive environment, Trachyrhynchus need things for them to climb on. Branches should be sturdy and thick enough to support the weight of the animal as it jumps from branch to branch (see bottom of paragraph). A range of options are available, from collecting wood from outside, to purchasing some of the wide range of exotic woods and vines or artificial vines made by companies such as Exo Terra and T-Rex.  If you do collect wood from outside, you will need to take into consideration the type of wood, as woods from pines, cedar and other sappy species can be toxic, and it will also need to be properly sterilized using either a soaking in bleach solution followed by thorough rinsing, or baking in a hot oven followed by freezing to eliminate and insects of bacteria that the wood may be harbouring. Like the Giant gecko, R.trachyrhynchus is often found on thick tree trunks, and so an effort should be made to include these in the vivarium.

Hiding Places - Being Semi-Arboreal, the Trachyrhynchus will spend a portion of its time in the rainforest floor, seeking refuge from heat or protection as it sleeps during the day. Therefore coverage needs to be placed on the floor of the enclosure also. Geckos tend to get stressed if they feel exposed, and so it is important that your animal feels secure in its home.  Hiding places should be provided at floor level as well as higher up as it also helps them whilst hunting live foods. Floor level hiding spots are particularly important for female Trachyrhynchus, as they will use them to give birth and raise their young in. Hiding spots can be created with plants, pieces of driftwood, or anything you can think of! Many reptile manufacturers also make pre-formed hides which are suitable as long as the opening is large enough for a fully grown gecko. My favourite option is to use plants. Not only does it provide hiding and sleeping places for the gecko, it also creates an attractive display which adds another level to keeping exotics. You can use live plants, as long as they are non-toxic to animals (List of safe plants) and have no sharp points (i.e Cacti and some Bromeliads). Be aware that many commercial plant stores use fertilizers and pesticides. You will need to change the soil as far as possible and gently wash the leaves to ensure no residues are left. More information on planting can be found in the Vivarium Design section.

If you are less green-fingered, you can use silk or plastic fake plants. These are available from exotics companies and pet shops, or for a cheaper option, you can use those found in handicraft and hobby stores. 

  Before adding the fake plant to your tank, you will need to test the dye to ensure it is colour-fast. Do this by submersing the plant in a bowl of lukewarm water and rubbing it. Pat dry with kitchen towel and if any dye leaches, it is unsafe to use.

Suitable substrate - There is much debate about what constitutes a 'suitable' substrate for geckos. I, along with many people believe that the safest option is to steer clear of bulky, loose substrates such as wood chippings, gravel and sand. There is considerable evidence to show that geckos can easily ingest loose substrate whilst hunting, and often have difficulty passing it through, which can lead to a build-up of the material in the animals stomach called 'impaction'. The only real cure for this is surgery, which is risky in such small reptiles.

Click here to view a photograph of sand impaction - Warning Graphic.

The Rough-Snouted Gecko's natural habitat is primary rainforest. There is evidence to suggest that Rough-Snouts like to dig and burrow, and so many people choose to use peat compost (without vermiculite or added chemicals) or a product called coco-fibre. The coco-fibre (also known as coco-earth, eco-earth or other variations on this theme) comes in brick form, and expands on addition of water to form a soil type substrate. Young Trachyrhynchus can be quite susceptible to dehydration, and so a moist soil-type substrate can also help prevent problems.

  Young R.t.trachycephalus, courtesy of Mandy Cardarelli

If impaction is a particular concern, there are numerous options available such as paper towels, linoleum and tiles, which are relatively 'impaction safe'. In Crested geckos, it is advised to keep neonates on an impaction safe substrate until they are at least 3" SVL. However, as  R.trachyrhynchus hatches at a much larger size than Crested Geckos (usually over 3.5" total length), they may be somewhat less likely to suffer with impaction. As as mentioned  in the previous paragraph, neonate Trachys often suffer with dehydration and so a large, clean water supply should always be available, and suitable humidity maintained via misting (this will be more essential in a paper towel setup).

As Trachyrhynchus are not a desert species, there is no need to use sand. The use of sand in vivaria is a controversial subject with desert living species but as the Rough-Snout does not naturally live in a sandy area, there is no reason to use sand. In my opinion none of the various forms of sand should be used. 

NOTE: When putting together your vivarium, it is important to make sure everything is secure.  Rough-Snouted geckos like to jump, and so there is always the possibility that injuries can occur if something collapses when they land on it! This also applies to sitting under things as many animals have been known to get stuck or squashed by tank decoration. Never assume your gecko cant get into somewhere - it will try and it could get stuck.

Heating: New Caledonia has a variable and relatively cool climate, and so specialist heating is not needed. An ideal temperature range is from 65-80F (21- 28 C), with a slight drop at night. If exposed to temperatures of over 85F Rough-Snouted geckos can go into hyperthermic shock which can be fatal. Therefore, adequate ventilation during summer and a good thermometer are vital. During winter, a small heat mat attached to a thermostat can be used to maintain temperatures in the correct range. It is good practise to place the heat mat in one of the lower corners of the vivarium (on the outside of the glass stuck to either the back or side wall, or placed underneath). This enables a temperature gradient to develop in the tank allowing the geckos to choose the temperature most comfortable. Some Rough-Snout breeders have found that a low level basking spot is beneficial to pregnant females, but the maximum basking temperature should not exceed 85F.

Lighting: Being nocturnal, it is currently believed that Rough-Snouted Geckos do not require artificial UV lighting in captivity.  Full spectrum and UV light bulbs can be bought in pet stores but are expensive, and need replacing every 6-12months to maintain UV output. In the wild, UV light is used by the body to produce vitamin D3, and so in captive situations without UV lamps, proper supplementation is vital (See Feeding and supplementation section).

A good day/night cycle is still beneficial, and so artificial lighting can be placed on a timer in order to simulate daylight cycle. My lighting set-up is timed to come on at 7am and turn off at 6pm.  Make sure however, that the bulb you use does not produce a lot of heat or you will risk overheating. Any bulbs placed inside the vivarium require a guard to prevent burning. The best option is to place the bulb outside the vivarium where is cannot burn the inhabitants.

Red or blue coloured bulbs can be bought for night-time viewing of your animals at their most active.  It is believed that they cannot see these wavelengths of light so it, in theory does not interfere with their natural activities. I have not used these however so I cannot speak from personal experience.

Humidity: Correct humidity levels are important to the gecko's health and also aid the shedding process.  Therefore a good hygrometer is an essential in the vivarium. In New Caledonia, the humidity levels vary quite widely throughout the year, but a moderate level of humidity is needed. 55-70% humidity is a good range to aim for, although they can survive in more humid conditions for short periods. When humidity is too low, the gecko will have trouble shedding its skin, particularly on the tips of the toes and tail, which can result in constriction of the blood vessels and ultimately, the trapped flesh will die and fall off. Levels that are too high can increase the risk of respiratory problems.

Adequate humidity can be easily maintained by spraying the vivarium once or twice a day. This should also be done with dechlorinated water. Features such as waterfalls and larger water bowls also aid humidity and so misting may need to be done less.

The amount you need to mist your tank will largely depend on the temperature, size, set-up and even the material the tank is made of, which reiterates the necessity of a hygrometer. Good ventilation is essential, and can be easily created with a screen lid (such as those found on the Exo Terra terrariums or created by modifying traditional plastic lids.)  

 Feeding: The Rough-Snouted Gecko is partly frugivorous, it’s wild diet consisting of non-citrus fruits as well as the usual insects. As one of the larger species of Rhacodactylus, Rough-Snouts have also been reported to feed on nestling birds, nestling rodents and lizards! Trachys can be fed daily, or every-other day with most diets. It is best to feed your geckos in the late evening or before you go to sleep, as they will be at their most active at night. This is particularly important with live foods as they can quickly hide themselves if left and have also been known to bite the animals while sleeping.

There are a number of options open to Rhacodactylus keepers, but the best all round option is to use a meal replacement powder known as 'Crested Gecko Diet'. The company ‘T-Rex’, in conjunction with renowned US breeder ‘Allen Repashy’ has developed a complete diet range for all of the Rhacodactylus species, which provides all of the nutrition needed to keep the species healthy. Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) is commonly available in small 1.35oz pots in most pet stores, or can be bought in larger quantities online from the US. The diet is fed either daily, or every-other day, and comes in powder form. The powder is mixed with water in a 2:1 (water:powder) ratio by volume, until it resembles a runny baby food in consistency. This thickens over a few minutes. The Crested Gecko Diet is suitable for use with all of the Rhacodactylus species, including R.Trachyrhynchus.

Allen Repashy has recently developed a new '2part formula' which is made up of an unflavoured 'base' and a flavoured 'nectar' which comes in different flavours so you can vary the geckos diet. This is available from websites such as, http://www.pangeareptile.com/

The CGD is formulated to provide all nutrition necessary when it is fed as the only, or staple food item, but live insects can be fed in addition to provide interest and hunting experience so long as they are dusted with a vitamin powder prior to feeding. I have noticed a trend recently of keepers having problems when feeding CGD as only part of the diet and assuming it will still provide all the nutrients necessary. If live foods are fed regularly (i.e more than once a week) or the CGD is mixed with fresh fruit or baby food, it will alter the composition of the diet and additional supplementation will most likely be needed. I would dust live foods with pure calcium or a multivitamin powder, or mix a little extra calcium into the CGD/baby food mixture once or twice weekly to prevent supplementation problems arising. I feed all of my animals on a staple of CGD as I feel it provides the best nutrition and also prevents Calcium crashes after laying.

Before CGD was developed, keepers used a mixed diet of feeder insects and mashed non-citrus fruits. Although this diet is still used by many keepers, it is far more difficult to get supplementation right, and it would appear that Rhacodactylus geckos are somewhat prone to vitamin (mostly calcium) deficiency. It is for that reason that I choose to use CGD and would recommend the same to other keepers, as it vastly reduces the risk of supplementation problems that it can be extremely difficult to spot (even for experienced keepers).

Richard Spekner, of Pet'acular Exotics, California has one of the largest Rough-Snout collections of anyone in the world, including both subspecies. He has developed a meal replacement powder specifically for R.trachyrhynchus which he has reported success with. I believe this diet is available through the Pet'acular Exotics website, http://www.petacularexotics.com/ although I cannot be sure that it has been released for general sale.

Like most gecko species, Trachys can be fed live-feeder insects of a suitable size, such as Crickets, Roaches and Locusts (although Henkel and Seipp's book 'Rhacodactylus 2000' claims that Locusts may be less readily accepted than others).  Feeder insects should be fed live, and should be no bigger than the width of the gecko’s head to avoid choking. There are many different feeder insects available in many pet shops, or online, the more common of these I have outlined in a paragraph below. Providing your geckos with live foods occasionally can be beneficial for young gecko’s growth (it seems that geckos raised solely on CGD may have a slower initial growth rate, and providing live foods once per week may speed up growth) and it can also be great fun to watch!  

Mashed fresh, non-citrus fruits should be provided in addition to just live foods.  Mandy Cardarelli reports that Strawberry and Peach are particular favourites of her Lesser Rough-Snout! Many keepers feed fruit flavoured baby foods to their geckos in replacement of fresh fruit; however I will not feed this to my animals for a number of reasons. Not only do the pre-packed baby foods contain many preservatives and chemicals which are undesirable, they are also high in sugar, which most often leads to the gecko refusing to eat the far more nutritious CGD, and is much less healthy for the animal. Rhacodactylus geckos should not be fed citrus fruits due to the citric acid content. Even non-citrus baby foods usually have citric acid added as a preservative, and it seems nonsensical to me to avoid citrus fruits, while then feeding baby foods where citric acid is an additive. If you choose to use baby food to feed your geckos, please carefully read the ingredients list and choose a baby food without citric acid, or rice and pasta.

Animals that have not been raised on CGD may be reluctant to switch to the complete diet, and so baby food/fresh fruit may be added, and then reduced in quantity as they are weaned from the sweeter option. 

Here is some information on some of the common feeder insects...

Crickets - Come in either Black or 'Silent' Brown variety. Silent browns are usually preferable as they make less noise, and as they have a shorter lifespan, there is less risk of infestation. In themselves, they are relatively low in nutritional value and so must be dusted with supplement, and gut-loaded before feeding. The average lifespan is approximately 3 weeks from birth. Downsides to Crickets are the noise and smell of keeping them, and the occasional escapee is common. Easily available in many different sizes, inexpensive, and generally considered as a good stable feeder insect for most species.

Locusts - Locusts make less noise that Crickets, and are slower moving so are easier to catch for most reptiles. However, they are much more expensive than Crickets and so are not commonly used as a staple.  Locusts have a longer lifespan than Crickets. Juvenile Locusts are often called 'Hoppers'. Locusts have a similar nutritional content to Crickets, and so require supplementation and gut-loading. Breeding is relatively easy, and so a colony of Locusts may provide a reliable food source and also an interesting display, as adults are quite beautiful. Henkel and Seipp's 2000 publication 'Rhacodactylus' claims that Locusts are less readily accepted as a prey item than other live foods, but this seems to be down to the individual gecko's preferences.

Roaches - Roaches are becoming more and more popular as a food item in the reptile keeping community. The species most commonly used are Blatta Lateralis and other tropical species. It is thought that due to the climate in the UK, tropical species cannot survive outside of the container and so infestation is not a problem. However I cannot say whether that is strictly true or not. Like all roaches, they are very prolific and so a colony is easy to maintain and are often available via websites and some shops. Escapees can be reduced by putting a line of Vaseline around the rim of your container, as they will not climb above the Vaseline. The nutritional content of roaches is higher than Crickets and Locusts, but still require supplementation.

Mealworms - Mealworms make a poor choice as a staple feeder insect due to the high level of Chitin in their outer coating. The material is difficult to digest and can actually cause impaction in some cases. Horror stories of mealworms 'burrowing' through live animals from the inside float around the internet, but these are unconfirmed and unlikely to be true. In any case, many keepers remove the heads from the mealworms before feeding as they do have nasty jaws. I do not feed mealworms to any of my animals, although they would be fine for an occasional treat.

Morio/Super worms- These are a very large version of mealworms, which are an even worse choice, in my opinion, than mealworms. The jaws on these worms are quite large and can inflict considerable damage to a gecko, and are mostly far too large to be fed to a Rough-Snouted gecko.

Waxworms - Waxworms are also a bad choice of staple feeder as they have a high fat content which can lead to problems with obesity and fatty liver disease, however they are a great treat item, and useful for feeding females that have just laid a clutch. They do not have the same chitinous coating as mealworms, and so are a much better choice. Waxworms are readily available online and from pet stores, mostly delivered in small plastic containers filled with sawdust. They will survive for a number of weeks, before encasing themselves in a cocoon. If given the right conditions, the moths will emerge and can also be used as a feeder item, or used to start a colony.

Phoenix worms/Calci- Worms - Phoenix Worms are a relatively new feeder item, which remain quite expensive, but do have many benefits. The nutritional content of the Phoenix worm is much better than others, with so much calcium that it is not necessary to supplement with calcium (D3 is still required however). The Phoenix worm has a very long lifespan, and come in a variety of sizes, however they will not grow once you have bought them, so there is no chance of them outgrowing your geckos. They are packaged similarly to waxworms in a plastic container, with a medium that will sustain them so no additional feeding is required. Phoenix worms are usually available in some shops, online and at reptile shows. The main UK importer for Phoenix worms has now started producing their own cultures, called ‘Calci-worms’. These are identical to Phoenix worms, and are produced by www.Pollywog.co.uk and you can order these cheapest from his website.

Supplementation: If you feed only the Crested Gecko Diet, no additional supplements will be needed as it is designed as a complete diet. However, if CGD is not the only thing in their diet, supplements may be necessary as the diet will have been altered.

The correct supplementation of Calcium and vitamin D3 is particularly important in keeping healthy animals, and is often misunderstood. In the wild, animals produce vitamin D3 in their skin via exposure to UVB light. In a captive environment, the natural synthesis of vitamin D3 cannot occur and so it must be provided artificially. Vitamin D3 is used by the body in order to uptake Calcium, and without D3 the body cannot utilise the Calcium it obtains in its food and it will suffer Ca deficiency problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) even if it is eating enough Calcium. Therefore, D3 must be supplemented to captive animals. However, if too much artificial D3 is given, the animal’s body will uptake too much Calcium, and the results can be as debilitating as MBD itself. It is important to know if your supplements include D3 or not. D3 should not be supplemented everyday, and so a pure Ca powder (such as Calypso) is needed in addition to a combinational supplement that includes the D3 (such as Nutrabal). CGD includes both Calcium and low levels of D3 making it safe as an everyday food source.

Here are examples of the supplementation regimes that should be followed with various diets…

CGD: Requires no additional supplementation. Additional pure Calcium may be safely provided if you want.

Live foods (once or twice a week) and CGD: Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium 1-2 times a week. No extra D3 needed.

Livefoods (more than twice a week) and CGD: Dust feeder insects with a multivitamin including D3 (i.e. Nutrabal) once a week, and with pure Calcium on every other feed.

Live foods only (Not Recommended): Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium at every feed, and with a multivitamin including D3 1-2 times per week.

Live foods and Fresh fruit/baby food: Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium at every feed. Add multivitamin powder including D3 to fruit/baby food 1-2 times per week.

Gut Loading: In themselves, feeder insects are relatively low in nutritional value. All live foods need to be fed in order to keep them alive, and so by feeding the insects with nutritional foods the content of the live food can be boosted. Most feeder insects will drown if left a dish of water to drink, and so by far the easiest way to provide moisture is with fruit and vegetables such as potato and apple, which also provide essential vitamins and minerals which are then passed on to the gecko. Crickets and Roaches will eat almost anything, and so a range of items can be used to gut-load them, from fish food, to vegetables, to specifically made gels which are designed as a gut-load. Leftover CGD is a perfect gut-loading item, as the insects appear to enjoy it, and it’s very high in nutritional content.