Rhacodactylus
auriculatus -
The Gargoyle Gecko
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Species information, Behaviour and Stats Housing Heating, Lighting and Humidity Feeding
A word on the species
Click for larger picture of S.Grand Terre Click for larger picture of Ils des Pins The Perfect Pet Gecko?: Like the Crested gecko, Thunder, owned by Gina Hoar Size: Rhacodactylus auriculatus are moderately sized animals, reaching up to 9inches total length. An adult Gargoyle gecko is robustly built, weighing anywhere between 45-70gm. Lifespan: In captivity, the lifespan of these geckos is somewhat unknown, although it is speculated that a maximum of around 20years will be expected- Therefore these are not short-term, disposable pets and you will need to think about whether you can provide them with love and adequate attention and maintenance for their entire life BEFORE you buy one. Morphology: Rhacodactylus auriculatus (pronounced Rak-o- dak-ti-lus Aw-rik-yew-lay-tus), the Gargoyle Gecko's scientific name, is derived from the greek 'Rhakos' meaning spine, 'Dactylus' meaning finger, and the latin 'auriculed' meaning 'with ears'. The latter refers to the bony protrusions which give the Gargoyle Gecko its characteristic 'bumpy' head. The selective breeding efforts of captive Gargoyle Geckos has resulted, unfortunately, in a reduction in the size of these bony protrustions (due to geckos being selectively bred for colouration In particular, this photograph shows the head structure well; http://www.endemia.nc/faune/photo.php?code=2417 Being semi-arboreal, the Gargoyle Gecko is equipped with sticky pads called 'lamellae' on each of its toes and the tip of its tail. These lamellae are made up of thousands of microscopic hairs called 'Setae', which then divide even further into 'Setules'. These hairs use simple form of molecular attraction called 'Van der Waals' forces to stick to any surface they come into contact with. The beauty of this design is that the gecko can break the attraction simply by altering the angle of its foot, so it can move effortlessly along vertical surfaces. The Gargoyle Gecko, like most geckos does not have proper eyelids; instead the gecko uses its long flexible tongue to lick its eyeballs throughout the day to keep it moist and dust free. The eye is covered by a single transparent scale which also offers a little protection. Like almost all reptiles, the Gargoyle Gecko sheds it's skin periodically, the technical term for which is 'sloughing'. The sloughed skin is often eaten by the gecko and if you are lucky you can catch the gecko using its mouth to tear off the loose skin, or sometimes using wood or bark to help rub it off. A gecko that is about to shed will usually have a whitish appearance, and the skin will look papery and thin. Adequate levels of humidity are vital for the shedding process, and if humidity levels are too low the old skin can remain stuck to the gecko, particularly around the toes and tail. If this skin is allowed to build up it can result in serious problems including the necrosis (death) of the affected limbs. The Gargoyle Gecko has slightly larger teeth than the Crested Gecko, however they are still relatively small and still unable to masticate (chew) food. The Gargoyle Gecko therefore swallows insects whole, and chooses overly-ripe, soft fruits, such as figs which are found on the forest floor. Sexing: Sexing Gargoyle geckos is more or less the same as in Crested geckos. Maturity is usually reached between 8 and 12 months in males and is obvious with the development of a bulge at the base of the tail. Before the bulge develops, Gargoyle geckos can be speculatively sexed using a 10X jewellers loope. Although it can be a difficult practice to master, identification of pre-anal pores can confirm a male gender. However, correctly sexing females is more difficult, as you can only determine a female based on the lack of pores, and pores can develop late in some animals. It is stated in Vosjoli, Repashy and Fast's 2003 book that Gargoyle Geckos may be 'pore sexed' at a minimum of 3inches (2.5cm) Snout to Vent length (SVL), which means the geckos length excluding the tail. However in practice sexing at this size takes quite a lot of practice. Females should not be bred until they weight at least 45gm. This is usually attained at around 12-14 months. Therefore immature females should not be housed with males until they are of size. Morphs and Colours: Although they have fewer morphs than Crested geckos, Gargoyle geckos also have a variety of stunning colour and pattern combinations. The base colour usually consists of a combination of blacks, greys, whites and browns, with accents and patches of bright oranges and reds. The patterns of the Gargoyle gecko are generally found in 2 morphs, the "Striped' and the 'Reticulated'. The Striped morph is as it sounds, the colours presented in stripes running vertically down the length of the body, often with very defined bands of the brighter accent colours. The Reticulated morph almost resembles marbling, and can be particularly stunning in the very pale colours. Reticulated Gargoyle Gecko Striped Gargoyle Gecko (Pictures courtesy of Dereck Dunlop (left) and Crested Lady (right)) Throughout their lives, auriculatus will change colour in varying degrees in response to stimulus such as activity, time of day, lighting, mood, stress and other unknown factors. This process is known as 'firing up' and sometimes the transformation can be quite pronounced. As you can see, this individual (owned and photographed by Crested Lady) displays quite outstanding colouration whilst 'fired up' Striped Gargoyle Gecko not fired-up The same striped Gargoyle gecko fired-up Behaviour: Gargoyle Geckos have great personalities and can be very entertaining! Gargoyle Geckos are often known as ‘clowns’ because of their amusing behaviours. Some of the behaviours of geckos often seem to worry new owners (and surprised experienced owners!) and so I decided to include a brief section including some of the behaviours you can expect. 1) Sleeping Patterns: Gargoyle geckos are nocturnal animals, so don't be surprised if they don't appear to be moving during the day! Like us, they are creatures of habit and will often pick a nice spot to sleep during the day, and return to the same spot every day! I often see people panicing because there gecko has suddenly changed its sleeping place! This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about so long as it is otherwise apparently healthy. You don't have to be a night owl to enjoy these geckos though, they will usually awaken around mid-late evening (so long as the lighting in your house isn't too bright) providing plenty of time to enjoy watching them! 2) Vocalisation: Gargoyle Geckos can be quite vocal, especially when in a breeding group. Most of the noises you will hear will be squeaks and clicks, and are usually expressed between each other to signal annoyance or mating behaviour, or towards you as a warning that it is unhappy with what you are doing. Gargoyles can be one of the most vocal of the Rhacodactylus geckos and their noises can surprisingly loud! 3) Aggression: Gargoyle Geckos are one of the more aggressive Rhacodactylus species, and there are a few tell-tale signs that will tell you if your gecko is angry or strssed. The Usual signs shown by Gargoyle geckos are Mouth gaping, tail flicking and twitching. It may also make noises such as clicks or squeaks. These are all signs of irritation and so you should leave the gecko alone. It is common to see female Gargoyle geckos display all of these signs during copulation. Although Gargoyle geckos are not known for being overly protective of their eggs (unlike R.chahoua who will fiercely guard her eggs), a female may guard a freshly laid clutch with the behaviours described above. Due to the more aggressive tendancies of Gargoyle Geckos, groups and pairs should be even more closely watched to ensure problems don’t arise.Distribution and Discovery: The Gargoyle gecko, like the Crested gecko is an arboreal species of lizard, native only to New Caledonia and the tiny islands that surround it. Gargoyle geckos are only known to populate the southern third of Grand terre (New Caledonia mainland). All exportation of livestock from New Caledonia is forbidden, and so like the other Rhacodactylus geckos, all animals available in the pet trade are captive bred. 
Gargoyle geckos can make a perfect addition to a reptile collection. The Gargoyle gecko has a similarly tolerant nature and excellent personality as its more common relatives, some finding the Gargoyles 'clownish' behaviour even more endearing than the Cresteds. The Gargoyle Gecko is somewhat less commonly kept in the UK, however it is just as easy to keep and steadily gaining in popularity.
instead of bone structure), and so modern day captive bred Gargoyle Geckos are less bony than their wild relatives. The following link provides some wonderful photographs of wild Rhacodactylus auriculatus and their bony heads; http://www.endemia.nc/faune/fiche.php?code=1021
Housing
Alone or in Groups?: Gargoyle Geckos can be kept singly of in groups with success, although tension and aggression between cagemates are more common in Gargoyle geckos than other Rhacodactylus,
Vivarium Choices: Gargoyle Geckos are a moderately sized animal, capable of jumping surprising distances and so require a reasonable size enclosure . As a general rule of thumb, 1 adult Gargoyle gecko requires 20 (US)gallons, and then each additional gecko in the vivarium requires another 10gallons (see the 'converters' at the bottom of this page for help calculating the volume of your vivarium). Hatchling and sub-adult geckos may be kept in smaller enclosures to ensure they have no trouble finding their food. I feel however that in most cases, this is unnecessary.
Normally, a Decoration: The Gargoyle gecko is semi-arboreal, and therefore, lots of branches and vines must be provided for them to climb on. A tall vivarium is better than a long one for the same reason.
Lots can be done with a vivarium, so much in fact that designing the tank can become as much of an addiction as the geckos themselves!!! I have dedicated a separate section to describing some of the different options you have with regards to the vivarium as it is too much for this caresheet. Here is a link to the Vivarium Design Section.
The most essential things in the vivarium are listed below;
A Water bowl - water must be provided at ALL times. The water must be dechlorinated (no tap water) which can be done simply by using a water conditioner such as 'Exo-terra's Aquavite'. Generally, the dish should be large enough for the gecko to sit in, but not deeper than the animals height at rest. This prevents accidents and drowning. Climbing Material - Gargoyle geckos are classified as semi- arboreal, spending the majority of their time climbing in the lower canopy of the lowland rainforests of Southern Grand Terre. Therefore, in order to be happy and active in the captive environment, Gargoyle geckos need
Hiding places – Being Semi-Arboreal, the Gargoyle gecko can spend a portion of its time in the rainforest floor, seeking refuge from heat or protection as it sleeps during the day, therefore coverage needs to be placed on the floor of the enclosure also. Geckos tend to get stressed if they feel exposed, and so it is important that your animal feels secure in its home. Hiding places should be provided at floor level as well as higher up as it also helps them hunting their food. They can be created with plants, pieces of driftwood, or anything you can think of! Many reptile manufacturers also make pre-formed hides which are suitable as long as the opening is large enough for a fully grown gecko. My favourite option is to use plants. Not only does it provide hiding and sleeping places for the gecko, it also creates an attractive display which adds another level to keeping exotics. You can use live plants, as long as they are non-toxic to animals (List of safe plants) and have no sharp points (i.e Cacti and some Bromeliads). Be aware that many commercial plant stores use fertilizers and pesticides. You will need to change the soil as far as possible, try to wash the leaves, and ideally, quarantine the plant before exposing it to your animal, just to ensure no residues are left. More information on planting can be found in the vivarium construction section. If you are less green-fingered, you can use silk or plastic fake plants. These are available from exotics companies such as Exo Terra or Zoo med, or for a cheaper option, you can use those found in handycraft and hobby stores. Before adding the fake plant to your tank, you will need to test the dye to ensure it is colourfast. Do this by submersing the plant in a bowl of lukewarm water and rubbing it. Pat dry with kitchen towel and if any dye leaches, it is unsafe to use.
Suitable Substrate - There is much debate about what constitutes a 'suitable' substrate for geckos. I, along with many people believe that the safest option is to steer clear of bulky loose substrates such as small wood chippings, gravel and sand. Whilst hunting, the gecko can easily ingest loose substrate, and often have difficulty passing it through, which can lead to a build-up of the material in the animals stomach called 'impaction'. The only real cure for this is surgery, which is very risky in such small reptiles. Click here for a photograph of sand impaction - Warning Graphic.
For young geckos especially, my opinion is that the best substrate option by far is kitchen towel. This is safe from impaction, easily replaced and cheap. It is also useful for monitoring your geckos 'movements'. I use paper towels in my hatchlings enclosures so I can monitor them closely. Another relatively 'impaction safe' option is to use linolium floor tiles, or a product called Repti-grass, which is a synthetic grass, much like astroturf, although these may be more difficult to clean. A reptile vet once told me that a hatchling Crested gecko's stomach is 1/4 the size of a pea, as such any lumps of substrate have the potential to block the geckos digestive system and cause serious harm. Once a gecko is over 3" SVL (snout to vent length) I feel comfortable in using other suitable substrates as discussed below. It should be noted however, that gecko's stools should always be monitored when on any substrate, as some individuals can be such clumsy eaters that they will gulp mouthfulls of substrate down when feeding, and so it is obviously best not to keep geckos that do this on substrate!
The Gargoyle Gecko's natural habitat is lowland rainforest, and so many people choose to use peat compost (without vermiculite or added chemicals) or a product called coco-fibre. The coco-fibre (also known as coco-earth, eco-earth or other variations on this theme) comes in brick form, and expands on addition of water to form a soil type substrate. Although not ideal for young geckos, if patted down until it is firm, coco-fibre can make an excellent substrate for adult geckos (or those over around 3" SVL). I have had personal success in using coco-fibre substrate with large (over 4") smooth pebbles placed firmly on top of the coco-fibre. The pebbles help reduce the risk of impaction further, and the geckos seem to enjoy it too! Another natural option is to use just smooth large river rocks, and with the right lighting and moisture levels, live mosses can be planted on top, as I use in my adult set-ups. More information and photographs of this style of set up can be found in the vivarium construction section.
As Gargoyle geckos are not a desert-living species, there is no need to use sand, as is a controversial subject with desert living species. In my opinion none of the various forms of sand should be used.
NOTE: When putting together your vivarium, it is important to make sure everything is secure. Gargoyle geckos like to jump, and so there is always the possibility that injuries can occur if something collapses when they land on it! This also applies to sitting under things as many animals have been known to get stuck or squashed by tank decoration. Never assume your gecko cant get into somewhere - it will try and it could get stuck. |
especially whilst young. Not more than 1 male should be present in each enclosure, and close attention must be paid to groups to ensure all animals are getting access to food and space. Gargoyle geckos are notorious for nipping the tails of their cagemates and are even known to eat the dropped tails of others! (as can be seen in the picture to the right). Gargoyle geckos can be aggressive hunters also, and so for these reasons, even more attention must be paid to groups than with other species. Many keepers of Gargoyle Gecko choose to house adults singly. For this reason it is also very important to have spare enclosures ready should you need to quickly separate geckos. I house all hatchlings and sub-adults singly so I can observe the eating habits of each gecko so make sure each is as healthy as possible and avoid unnecessary accidents.
glass vivarium is used, as it not only enables you to see the animals, but because aids retention of heat and humidity better than screen. Screen tanks are more often used in the US, however the UK climate is too severe for them to be very effective. A waterproof material such as PVC is usually added to some of the panels of these tanks though so that humidity levels can be maintained. Wood is not commonly used with such species as it is susceptible to moulding and warping. An ideal enclosure for these geckos are the Exoterra glass vivariums (no smaller than the 45cmX45cmX45cm ideally), as the front opening doors enable easy access for cleaning and the screen top aids ventilation. Being semi-arboreal, the vertically oriented vivariums are the best option.
things for them to climb on. Gargoyle Geckos can reach weights of 40-60gm, and can be clumsy, so branches should be sturdy and thick enough to support the weight of the animal as it jumps from branch to branch (see bottom of paragraphHeating, Lighting and Humidity
| Heating: New Caledonia has a variable and relatively cool climate, and so specialist heating is not needed. An ideal temperature range is from 65-80F (21- 28 C), with a slight drop at night. If exposed to temperatures of over 85F Gargoyle geckos can go into hyperthermic shock which can be fatal. Therefore, adequate ventilation during summer and a good thermometer are vital. During winter, small heatmat attached to a thermostat can be used to maintain temperatures in the correct range. It is good practice to place the heatmat in one of the lower corners of the vivarium (on the outside of the glass stuck to either the back or side wall, or placed underneath). This enables a temperature gradient to develop in the tank allowing the geckos to choose the temperature most comfortable. Lighting: Being nocturnal, it is believed that Gargoyle Geckos do not require artificial UVB lamps in captivity. Full spectrum and UVB light bulbs can be bought in pet stores but are expensive, and need replacing every 6-12months to maintain UVB output. A good day/night cycle is still beneficial, and so artificial lighting can be placed on a timer in order to simulate daylight cycle. Make sure however, that the bulb you use does not produce a lot of heat or you will risk overheating. Red or blue coloured bulbs can be bought for night-time viewing of your animals at their most active. It is commonly believed that they cannot see these wavelengths of light so it does not interfere with their natural activities. I have not used these however so I cannot speak from personal experience. Humidity: Gargoyle geckos originate from low-land rainforest, and so need moderately high levels of humidity. Correct humidity levels are important to the gecko's health and also aid the shedding process. Therefore a good hygrometer (humidity measure) is an essential in the vivarium so that you can monitor it at all times. In New Caledonia, the humidity levels vary quite widely throughout the year, but a moderate level of humidity is needed. 55-70% humidity is a good range to aim for, although they can survive in more humid conditions for short periods. When humidity is too low, the gecko will have trouble shedding its skin, particularly on the tips of the toes and tail, which can result in constriction of the blood vessels and ultimately, the trapped flesh will die and fall off. Levels that are too high can increase the risk of respiratory problems. Generally, I aim for a base level of 65% in my vivaria, rising to 95% right after spraying, but then decreasing back to 65% in the next few hours. Adequate humidity can be easily maintained by spraying the vivarium once or twice a day. This should also be done with dechlorinated water. Features such as waterfalls and larger water bowls also aid humidity and so misting may need to be done less. The amount you need to mist your tank will largely depend on the temperature, size, set-up and even the material the tank is made of, which reiterates the necessity of a hygrometer. |
Feeding and Supplementation
Feeding: The Gargoyle Gecko is partly frugivorous, it’s wild diet consisting of non-citrus fruits such as figs, as well as the usual insects. Gargoyle Geckos can be fed daily, or every-other day with most diets. It is best to feed your geckos in the late evening or before you go to sleep, as they will be at their most active at night. This is particularly important with livefoods as they can quickly hide themselves if left and have also been known to bite the animals while sleeping. There are a number of options open to Gargoyle Gecko keepers, but the best all round option is to use a meal replacement powder known as 'Gargoyle/Crested Gecko Diet'. The company ‘T-Rex’, in conjunction with renowned US breeder ‘Allen Repashy’ has developed a complete diet range for all of the Rhacodactylus species, which provides all of the nutrition needed to keep the species healthy. Gargoyle Gecko Diet (GGD) is commonly available in small 1.35oz pots in most pet stores, or can be bought in larger quantities online from the US. The diet is fed either daily, or every-other day, and comes in powder form. The powder is mixed with water in a 2:1 (water:powder) ratio by volume, until it resembles a runny babyfood in consistency. This thickens over a few minutes. CGD (The Crested Gecko version) can also be fed successfully to Gargoyles, and the GGD is in the process of being 'phased out' with the intention of feeding Gargoyles on CGD instead. Allen Repashy has recently developed a new '2part formula' which is made up of an unflavoured 'base' and a flavoured 'nectar' which comes in different flavours so you can vary the geckos diet. This is available from websites such as, http://www.pangeareptile.com/ The CGD/GGD is formulated to provide all nutrition necessary when it is fed as the only, or staple food item, but live insects can be fed in addition to provide interest and hunting experience so long as they are dusted with a vitamin powder prior to feeding. I have noticed a trend recently of keepers having problems when feeding CGD as only part of the diet and assuming it will still provide all the nutrients necessary. If livefoods are fed regularly (e.g more than once a week) or the CGD is mixed with fresh fruit or babyfood, it will alter the composition of the diet and additional supplementation will most likely be needed. If feeding livefoods more than once per week, or adding babyfood or fresh fruit to the CGD mix, I advise dusting livefoods with pure calcium or mix a little extra calcium into the CGD/babyfood mixture once or twice weekly to prevent supplementation problems arising. I feed all of my animals on a staple of 2 part CGD as I feel it provides the best nutrition and also prevents Calcium crashes after laying. I also give my geckos crickets, dusted with pure Calcium once a week.
Before CGD was developed, keepers used a mixed diet of feeder insects and mashed non-citrus fruits. Although this diet is still used by many keepers, it is far more difficult to get supplementation right, and it would appear that Rhacodactylus geckos are somewhat prone to vitamin (mostly calcium) deficiency. It is for that reason that I choose to use CGD and would recommend the same to other keepers, as it vastly reduces the risk of supplementation problems which can be extremely difficult to spot (even for experienced keepers). Rhacodactylus geckos should not be fed citrus fruits due to the citric acid content. Some keepers choose to feed their geckos babyfood instead of freshly mashed fruits, However even non-citrus babyfoods usually have citric acid added as a preservative, and it seems nonsensical to me to avoid citrus fruits, while then feeding babyfoods where citric acid is an additive. If you choose to use babyfood to feed your geckos, please carefully read the ingredients list and choose a babyfood without citric acid, or rice and pasta. I have found only 1 branch of babyfood in the 'regular' supermarkets which does not contain citric acid, and this is called 'Ella's Garden'. Babyfoods also contain a lot of added sugars, which can lead to the gecko becoming 'addicted' to the babyfood, refusing to eat the more nutritionally balanced CGD when offered it. Some keepers assume that the gecko will choose the food that is right for it, or are just happy that their gecko eats more when offered babyfood, however this may not be in the longterm interest of the gecko, and so I encourage people who choose not to use CGD to use mashed fresh fruits instead of babyfood, and monitor the supplementation of their geckos extremely carefully. Animals that have not been raised on GGD may be reluctant to switch to the complete diet, and so babyfood/fresh fruit may be added, and then reduced in quantity as they are weaned from the sweeter option. I raise all of my hatchlings on CGD and so all usually feed well on it by the time they leave me. I strongly advise that GGD continues to be fed as the staple diet.
Like most gecko species, Gargoyle Gecko’s can be fed live-feeder insects of a suitable size, such as Crickets, Roaches and Locusts. Feeder insects should be fed live, and should be no bigger than the width of the gecko’s head to avoid choking. There are many different feeder insects available in many pet shops, or online, the more common of these I have outlined in a paragraph below. Providing your geckos with livefoods occasionally can be beneficial for young geckos growth (it seems that geckos raised solely on CGD may have a slower initial growth rate, and providing livefoods once per week may speed up growth) and it can also be great fun to watch! Pinkie mice may also be fed as a treat item to Gargoyle Geckos and are particularly good for breeding females as they help then bulk up and the bones provide calcium. They are very fatty however so should not be used as a staple. Here is some information on some of the common feeder insects... Crickets - Come in either Black or 'Silent' Brown variety. Silent browns are usually preferable as they make less noise, and as they have a shorter lifespan, there is less risk of infestation. In themselves, they are relatively low in nutritional value and so must be dusted with supplement, and gutloaded before feeding. The average lifespan is approximately 3 weeks from birth. Downsides to Crickets are the noise and smell of keeping them, and the occasional escapee is common. Easily available in many different sizes, inexpensive, and generally considered as a good stable feeder insect for most species.
Locusts - Locusts make less noise that Crickets, and are slower moving so are easier to catch for most reptiles. However, they are much more expensive than Crickets and so are not commonly used as a staple. Locusts have a longer lifespan than Crickets, but also get to a much larger size, so adult locusts are an unacceptable food item for Crested Geckos for risk of choking. Juvenile Locusts are often called 'Hoppers'. Locusts have a similar nutritional content to Crickets, and so require supplementation and gutloading. Breeding is relatively easy, and so a colony of Locusts may provide a reliable food source and also an interesting display, as adults are quite beautiful.
Roaches - Roaches are becoming more and more popular as a food item in the reptile keeping community. The species most commonly used are Blatta Lateralis and other tropical species. It is thought that due to the climate in the UK, tropical species cannot survive outside of the container and so infestation is not a problem. However I cannot say whether that is strictly true or not. Like all roaches, they are very prolific and so a colony is easy to maintain and are often available via websites and some shops. Escapees can be reduced by putting a line of Vaseline around the rim of your container, as they will not climb above the Vaseline. The nutritional content of roaches is higher than Crickets and Locusts, but still require supplementation.
Mealworms - Mealworms make a poor choice as a staple feeder insect due to the high level of Chitin in their outer coating. The material is difficult to digest and can actually cause impaction in some cases. Horror stories of mealworms 'burrowing' through live animals from the inside float around the internet, but these are unconfirmed and unlikely to be true. In any case, many keepers remove the heads from the mealworms before feeding as they do have nasty jaws. I do not feed mealworms to any of my animals, although they would be fine for an occasional treat.
Morio/Super worms- These are a very large version of mealworms, which are an even worse choice, in my opinion, than mealworms. The jaws on these worms are quite large and can inflict considerable damage to a gecko, and are mostly far too large to be fed to a Crested gecko.
Waxworms - Waxworms are also a bad choice of staple feeder as they have a high fat content which can lead to problems with obesity and fatty liver disease, however they are a great treat item, and useful for feeding females that have just laid a clutch. They do not have the same chitinous coating as mealworms, and so are a much better choice. Waxworms are readily available online and from pet stores, mostly delivered in small plastic containers filled with sawdust. They will survive for a number of weeks, before encasing themselves in a cocoon. If given the right conditions, the moths will emerge and can also be used as a feeder item, or used to start a colony.
Phoenix worms/Calci-worms - Phoenix worms are a relatively new feeder item, which remain quite expensive, but do have many benefits. The nutritional content of the Phoenix worm is much better than others, with so much calcium that it is not necessary to supplement with calcium (D3 is still required however). The Phoenix worm has a very long lifespan, and come in a variety of sizes, however they will not grow once you have bought them, so there is no chance of them outgrowing your geckos. They are packaged similarly to waxworms in a plastic container, with a medium that will sustain them so no additional feeding is required. Phoenix worms are available in some shops, online and at reptile shows. The UK importer for Phoenix worms has now developed his own stock, and rebranded them as 'Calci-worms'. You can find these on his website, at www.Pollywog.co.uk and you can order direct from there for the best prices.
Supplementation: If you feed only the Gargoyle Gecko Diet, no additional supplements will be needed as it is a complete diet. However, if GGD is not the only thing in their diet, supplements may be necessary as the diet will have been altered.
The correct supplementation of Calcium and vitamin D3 is particularly important in keeping healthy animals, and is often misunderstood. In the wild, animals produce vitamin D3 in their skin via exposure to UVB light. In a captive environment, the natural synthesis of vitamin D3 cannot occur and so it must be provided artificially. Vitamin D3 is used by the body in order to uptake Calcium, and without D3 the body cannot utilise the Calcium it obtains in it’s food and it will suffer Ca deficiency problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) even if it is eating enough Calcium. Therefore, D3 must be supplemented to captive animals. However, if too much artificial D3 is given, the animals body will uptake too much Calcium, and the results can be as debilitating as MBD itself. It is important to know if your supplements include D3 or not. D3 should not be supplemented everyday, and so a pure Ca powder (such as Calypso) is needed in addition to a combinational supplement that includes the D3 (such as Nutrabal). GGD includes both Calcium and low levels of D3 making it safe as an everyday food source.
Here are examples of the supplementation regimes that should be followed with various diets…
GGD/CGD: Requires no additional supplementation. Additional pure Calcium may be safely provided Livefoods (one or twice a week) and GGD: Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium 1-2 times a week. No extra D3 needed. Livefoods (more than twice a week) and GGD: Dust feeder insects with a multivitamin including D3 (such as Nutrabal) once a week, and dust with pure Calcium on all other feeds. Livefoods only (Not Recommended): Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium at every feed, and with a supplement including D3 1-2 times per week Livefoods and Fresh fruit/babyfood: Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium. Add supplement powder including D3 to fruit/babyfood twice per week.
Gutloading: In themselves, feeder insects are relatively low in nutritional value. All livefoods need to be fed in order to keep them alive, and so by feeding the insects with nutritional foods the content of the livefood can be boosted. Most feeder insects will drown if left a dish of water to drink, and so by far the easiest way to provide moisture is with fruit and vegetables such as potato and apple, which also provide essential vitamins and minerals which are then passed on to the gecko. Crickets and Roaches will eat almost anything, and so a range of items can be used to gutload them, from fish food, to vegetables, to specifically made gels which are designed as a gutload. Leftover GGD is a perfect gutloading item, as the insects appear to enjoy it, and its very high in nutritional content. |
