Rhacodactylus ciliatus -
The Crested Gecko
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Species information, Behaviour and Stats Housing Heating, Lighting and Humidity Feeding Breeding Hybridization
A Word on the Species
Distribution and Discovery: The Crested gecko is a semi-arboreal species of lizard, native only to Click for larger picture of S.Grand Terre Click for larger picture of Ils des Pins
Satellite images of Southern Grande Terre (Left) and The Ils des Pins (Right) with various locales labelled. Images courtesy of Google Earth
The Perfect Pet Gecko?: Many consider the Crested gecko to be the 'perfect pet gecko' with its moderate size, ease of care and excellent personality. Although not as generally hardy and handlable as other beginner’s choices such as the Leopard gecko, with the right set up and a descent amount of patience and research, gecko novices can have great success with this species. I find Crested Geckos to be extremely personable and amusing, and with a little time, even skittish hatchlings become accustomed to handling. All of my adults are very tame and often enjoy time out of their vivarium. I put effort into every one of my hatchlings to try to get them used to handling as young as possible. I much prefer Crested Geckos to other geckos such as Leopard geckos, as they are much more attractive and much more entertaining!
Size: Rhacodactylus cilatus are moderately built, reaching up to 8 inches total length. An adult Crested Gecko will weigh anywhere between 30-60gm.
Lifespan: In captivity, the lifespan of these geckos is somewhat unknown, although it is speculated that an average of around 20 years will be expected; therefore these are not short-term, disposable pets and you will
Morphology: Rhacodactylus ciliatus, the Crested Gecko's scientific name is derived from the greek 'Rhakos' meaning spine, 'Dactylus' meaning finger, and the latin 'cili' meaning fringe or eyelash. The Crested Gecko's 'eyelashes' and triangular head are perhaps its most distinguishing features.
Like almost all reptiles, the Crested Ge
Sexing: Maturity is usually reached between 9 and 12 months in males and is obvious with the development of a bulge at the base of the tail which contains the hemipenis. Before the bulge develops, Crested Geckos can be speculatively sexed using a 10X jewellers loope. Although it can be a difficult practise to master, identification of pre-anal pores can confirm a male gender. The pre-anal pores are found in a horizontal row between the hind legs and can be identified by the dent in their centre (which often appears as a black dot), and their slightly shinier texture (see photograph below). Correctly sexing females is more difficult however, as a female can only be identified by the lack of a hemipenal bulge and the lack of pre-anal pores (and pores can often be difficult to see, especially in highly patterned or spotty geckos, and they can even develop late in some smaller individuals). Females should not be bred until they weigh at least 35gm. This is usually attained at around 14-18 months. Immature females should not be housed with males until they are of size to avoid accidental breeding.
 Male Crested Gecko preanal area (above) Click for larger picture
Female Crested Gecko preanal area (above) Click for larger picture
Morphs and Colours: One of the most interesting and endearing qualities of Crested Gecko is the wide range colours and patterns they can be found in. The different colours and patterns of the Crested Gecko are known of as ‘morphs' and are very widely varied, meaning that even the most extensive collection can always be added to. Examples of most of the morphs of these animals are provided in the page titled 'Crested Gecko Morphs'.
Throughout their lives, Crested Geckos change colour in varying degrees in response to stimulus such as activity, time of day, lighting, mood, stress and other unknown factors. This process is known as 'firing up' and the transformation can often be quite pronounced. Although all geckos are different, most people find that their geckos display the brightest and darkest colours at night.
Behaviour: Crested Geckos have great personalities and can be very entertaining! I have been told by longterm keepers of other popular geckos, such as Leopard Geckos, that their first experience with a Crested Gecko completely changed their opinions about just how personable a gecko can be! Each of my geckos has a different personality, although I find all of my adults are very tame.
Some of the behaviours their geckos display often seem to worry new owners (and often surprise experienced owners too!) and so I decided to include a brief section including some of the behaviours you can expect.
1) Sleeping patterns: Crested Geckos are nocturnal animals, meaning they sleep during the day, so don’t be surprised
2) Vocalisation: Crested Geckos can be quite vocal, especially when they're kept in a breeding group. Most of the noises you will hear will be squeaks and clicks, usually expressed between each other to signal annoyance or mating behaviour, or towards you as a warning that it is unhappy with what you are doing. Crested Geckos are not usually particularly aggressive, but like any animal they can have those days where they want to be left alone!
3) Aggression: Crested Geckos are not particularly |
need to think about whether you can provide them with love and adequate attention and maintenance for their entire life BEFORE you buy one. 
Being semi-arboreal, the Crested Gecko is equipped with sticky pads called 'lamellae' on each of its toes and the tip of its tail. These lamellae are made up of thousands of microscopic hairs called 'Setae', which then divide even further into 'Setules'. These hairs use simple form of molecular attraction called 'Van der Waals' forces to stick to any surface they come into contact with. The beauty of this design is that the gecko can break the attraction simply by altering the angle of its foot, so it can move effortlessly along vertical surfaces. 
The Crested G
cko sheds it's skin periodically, the technical term for which is 'sloughing'. The sloughed skin is often eaten by the gecko and if you are lucky you can catch the gecko using its mouth t
o tear off the loose skin (as in the photograph on the right), or sometimes using wood or bark to help rub it off. A gecko that is about to shed will usually have a whitish appearance, and the skin will look papery and thin. Adequate levels of humidity are vital for the shedding process, and if humidity levels are too low the old skin can remain stuck to the gecko, particularly around the toes and tail. If this skin is allowed to build up it can result in serious problems including the necrosis (death) of the affected limbs.%20161.jpg)
The Crested Gecko has only small ineffective teeth which are unable to masticate (chew) its food. The Crested Gecko therefore swallows insects whole, and chooses overly-ripe, soft fruits, such as figs which are found on the forest floor.
Madame Mim not fired up (left) and the same gecko fired up (right)
if they don’t appear to be moving in the day! Like us, they are creatures of habit and so they will often pick a nice spot to sleep in during the day and return to the same spot every night! In the wild, unlike other 
aggressive animals, but there are a few tell-tale signs that will let you know if your gecko is angry or stressed. The usual signs shown by Crested Geckos are mouth gaping, and tail flicking and twitching. It may also make noises such as clicks and squeaks. These are all signs of irritation and so you should leave the gecko alone. Although Crested Geckos are not known for being overly protective of their eggs (unlike Housing
Alone or in groups?: Crested Geckos can be kept singly or in groups with I house all hatchlings and sub-adults singly so I can observe the eating habits of each gecko so make sure each animal is as healthy as possible. Crested Geckos should be housed only with others of the same species.
Vivarium choices: Crested Geckos are a moderately Normally, a glass vivarium is used, not only as it enables you to see your animals, but because it aids retention of heat and humidity better than screen. Screen tanks are more often used in the An ideal enclosure for these geckos are the 'Exo terra glass terrariums' (no smaller than the 45cmX45cmX45cm for 1 individual or a pair of adults), as the front opening doors enable easy access for cleaning and the screen top aids ventilation. Being semi-arboreal, the vertically oriented vivariums are the best option. I personally prefer the 45X45X60cm (WXDXH) and 60X45X60cm Exo terra vivaria.
For hatchling geckos, you may prefer to use a smaller enclosure, and for these I would recommend either the 30X30X45cm (WXDxH) glass Exo terra terrarium, or small/medium standard height Exo terra faunariums.
Decoration: The Crested gecko is semi-arboreal, and therefo
Lots can be done with a vivarium, so much in fact that designing the tank can become as much fun as the geckos themselves! I have dedicated a separate section to describing some of the different options you have with regards to the vivarium as it is too much for this care sheet. Please click here for a link to the Vivarium Design section
The most essential things in the vivarium are listed below;
A Water Bowl - Water must be provided at ALL times. The water must be dechlorinated (no tap water) which can be done simply by using a water conditioner such as 'Exo terra's Aquavite'. Generally, the dish should be large enough for the gecko to sit in, but no deeper than the animals height at rest. This prevents accidental drowning. You may observe that your Crested Gecko prefers to drink from water droplets left on plants after misting, but a water bowl must still be provided so that water is accessible at all times. For geckos that prefer to drink from droplets, regular misting becomes even more important.
Climbing Material - Crested geckos are classified as semi- arboreal, spending the majority of their time climbing in the lower canopy of the lowland rainforests of Southern Grand Terre an Hiding Places - Being Semi-Arboreal, the Crested gecko can spend a portion of its time in the rainforest floor, seeking refuge from heat or protection as it sleeps during the day. Therefore coverage If you are less green-fingered, you can use silk or plastic fake plants. These are available from exotics companies and pet shops, or for a cheaper option, you can use those found in handicraft and hobby stores. Before adding the fake plant to your tank, you will need to test the dye to ensure it is colour-fast. Do this by submersing the plant in a bowl of lukewarm water and rubbing it. Pat dry with kitchen towel and if any dye leaches, it is unsafe to use. Suitable substrate - There is much debate about what constitutes a 'suitable' substrate for geckos. I, along with many people believe that the safest option is to steer clear of loose substrates such as wood chippings, gravel and sand. It is believed that the gecko can easily ingest loose substrate whilst hunting, and often have difficulty passing it through, which can lead to a build-up of the material in the animals stomach called 'impaction'. The only real cure for this is surgery, which is risky in such small reptiles. Click here to view a photograph of sand impaction - Warning Graphic.
For young geckos especially, my opinion is that the best substrate option by far is kitchen towel. This is safe from impaction, easily replaced and cheap. It is also useful for monitoring your geckos 'bowel movements'. I use paper towels in my hatchlings enclosures so I can monitor them closely. Another relatively 'impaction safe' option is to use linoleum floor tiles, or a product called Repti-grass, which is a synthetic grass, much like Astroturf. A reptile vet once told me that a hatchling Crested gecko's stomach is 1/4 the size of a pea, as such any lumps of substrate have the potential to block the geckos digestive system and cause serious harm. Once a gecko is over 3" SVL (snout to vent length) I feel comfortable in using other suitable substrates as discussed below. It should be noted however, that gecko's stools should always be monitored when on any substrate, as some individuals can be such clumsy eaters that they will gulp mouthfulls of substrate down when feeding, and so it is obviously best not to keep geckos that do this on substrate! The Crested Gecko's natural habitat is lowland rainforest, and so many people choose to use peat compost (without vermiculite or added chemicals) or a product called coco-fibre. The coco-fibre (also known as coco-earth, eco-earth or other variations on this theme) comes in brick form, and expands on addition of water to form a soil type substrate. Although not ideal for young geckos, if patted down until it is firm, coco-fibre can make an excellent substrate for adult geckos (or those over around 3" SVL). I have had personal success in using coco-fibre substrate with large (over 4") smooth pebbles placed firmly on top of the coco-fibre. The pebbles help reduce the risk of impaction further, and the geckos seem to enjoy it too! Another natural option is to use just smooth large river rocks, and with the right lighting and moisture levels, live mosses can be planted on top, as I use in my adult set-ups (See Advanced Gravel-Bottom Set up) As Crested geckos are not a desert species, there is no need to use sand. The use of sand in vivaria is a controversial subject with desert living species but as the Crested Gecko does not naturally live in a sandy area, there is no reason to use sand. In my opinion none of the various forms of sand should be used.
NOTE: When putting together your vivarium, it is important to make sure everything is secure. Crested geckos like to jump, and so there is always the possibility that injuries can occur if something collapses when they land on it! This also applies to sitting under things as many animals have been known to get stuck or squashed by tank decoration. Never assume your gecko cant get into somewhere - it will try and it could get stuck. |
equal success. However, not more than 1 male should be present in each enclosure, and close attention must be paid to groups to make sure all animals are getting access to food and space. 1.1 (1 Male-1 Female) pairs of geckos should be carefully monitored to ensure that the lone female is not being hassled by the male geckos 'attention'. In 1.1 pairings it is usually wise to ensure the pair are separated for an extra long period of time over winter to make sure her health is maintained.
sized animal, capable of jumping surprising distances, and so they require a reasonable size enclosure. As a general rule of thumb, 1 adult Crested Gecko requires 20 (
re, lots of branches and vines must be provided for them to climb on. A tall vivarium is better than a long one for the same reason.
d the Ilse des Pins. Therefore, in order to be happy and active in the captive environment, Crested geckos need things for them to climb on. Crested Geckos can reach weights of 40-60gm and can be clumsy, so branches should be sturdy and thick enough to support the weight of the animal 
needs to be placed on the floor of the enclosure also. Geckos tend to get stressed Heating, Lighting and Humidity
Heating: New Caledonia has a variable and Rainforest, New Caledonia. Picture property of Tim Waters A good day/night cycle is still beneficial, and so artificial lighting can be placed on a timer in order to simulate daylight cycle. My lighting set-up is timed to come on at 7am and turn off at 6pm. Make sure however, that the bulb you use does not produce a lot of heat or you will risk overheating. Any bulbs placed inside the vivarium require a guard to prevent burning. The best option is to place the bulb outside the vivarium where is cannot burn the inhabitants. Red or blue coloured bulbs can be bought for night-time viewing of your animals at their most active. It is believed that they cannot see these wavelengths of light so it, in theory does not interfere with their natural activities. I have not used these however so I cannot speak from personal experience. Humidity: Correct humidity levels are important to the gecko's health and also aid the shedding process. Therefore a good hygrometer is an essential in the vivarium. In The amount you need to mist your tank will largely depend on the temperature, size, set-up and even the material the tank is made of, which reiterates the necessity of a hygrometer. Good ventilation is essential, and can be easily created with a screen lid (such as those found on the Exo Terra terrariums or created by modifying traditional plastic lids.) 
relatively cool climate, and so specialist heating is not needed. An ideal temperature range is from 65-80F (21- 28 C), with a slight drop at night. If exposed to temperatures of over 85F Crested geckos can go into hyperthermic shock which can be fatal. Therefore, adequate ventilation during summer and a good thermometer are vital. During winter, a small heat mat attached to a thermostat can be used to maintain temperatures in the correct range. It is good practise to place the heat mat in one of the lower corners of the vivarium (on the outside of the glass stuck to either the back or side wall, or placed underneath). This enables a temperature gradient to develop in the tank allowing the geckos to choose the temperature most comfortable.
Feeding and Supplementation
Feeding: The Crested Gecko is partly frugivorous, it’s wild diet consisting of non-citrus fruits as well as the usual insects. Crested Geckos can be fed daily, or every-other day with most diets. It is best to feed your geckos in the late evening or before you go to sleep, as they will be at their most active at night. This is particularly important with live foods as they can quickly hide themselves if left and have also been known to bite the animals while sleeping. There are a number of options open to Crested Gecko Allen Repashy has recently developed a new '2part formula' which is made up of an unflavoured 'base' and a flavoured 'nectar' which comes in different flavours so you can vary the geckos diet. This is available from websites such as, http://www.pangeareptile.com/ The CGD is formulated to provide all nutrition necessary when it is fed as the only, or staple food item, but live insects can be fed in addition to provide interest and hunting experience so long as they are dusted with a vitamin powder prior to feeding. I have noticed a trend recently of keepers having problems when feeding CGD as only part of the diet and assuming it will still provide all the nutrients necessary. If live foods are fed regularly (i.e more than once a week) or the CGD is mixed with fresh fruit or baby food, it will alter the composition of the diet and additional supplementation will most likely be needed. I would dust live foods with pure calcium or a multivitamin powder, or mix a little extra calcium into the CGD/baby food mixture once or twice weekly to prevent supplementation problems arising. I feed all of my animals on a staple of CGD as I feel it provides the best nutrition and also prevents Calcium crashes after laying. Before CGD was developed, keepers used a mixed diet of feeder insects and mashed non-citrus fruits. Although this diet is still used by many keepers, it is far more difficult to get supplementation right, and it would appear that Rhacodactylus geckos are somewhat prone to vitamin (mostly calcium) deficiency. It is for that reason that I choose to use CGD and would recommend the same to other keepers, as it vastly reduces the risk of supplementation problems that it can be extremely difficult to spot (even for experienced keepers). Like most gecko species, Crested Geckos can be fed live-feeder insects of a suitable size, such as Crickets, Roaches and Locusts (although Henkel and Seipp's book 'Rhacodactylus 2000' claims that Locusts may be less readily accepted than others). Feeder insects should be fed live, and should be no bigger than the width of the gecko’s head to avoid choking. There are many different feeder insects available in many pet shops, or online, the more common of these I have outlined in a paragraph below. Providing your geckos with live foods occasionally can be beneficial for young gecko’s growth (it seems that geckos raised solely on CGD may have a slower initial growth rate, and providing live foods once per week may speed up growth) and it can also be great fun to watch! Crested geckos appear to be quite clumsy hunters as you can see in the video below! Video property of J. Boeke
Mashed fresh, non-citrus fruits should be provided in addition to just live foods. Mango and Banana are particular favourites of most Cresteds! Many keepers feed fruit flavoured baby foods to their geckos in replacement of fresh fruit; however I will not feed this to my animals for a number of reasons. Not only do the pre-packed baby foods contain many preservatives and chemicals which are undesirable, they are also high in sugar, which most often leads to the gecko refusing to eat the far more nutritious CGD, and is much less healthy for the animal. Rhacodactylus geckos should not be fed citrus fruits due to the citric acid content. Even non-citrus baby foods usually have citric acid added as a preservative, and it seems nonsensical to me to avoid citrus fruits, while then feeding baby foods where citric acid is an additive. If you choose to use baby food to feed your geckos, please carefully read the ingredients list and choose a baby food without citric acid, or rice and pasta.
Here is some information on some of the common feeder insects... Crickets - Come in either Black or 'Silent' Brown variety. Silent browns are usually preferable as they make less noise, and as they have a shorter lifespan, there is less risk of infestation. In themselves, they are relatively low in nutritional value and so must be dusted with supplement, and gut-loaded before feeding. The average lifespan is approximately 3 weeks from birth. Downsides to Crickets are the noise and smell of keeping them, and the occasional escapee is common. Easily available in many different sizes, inexpensive, and generally considered as a good stable feeder insect for most species.
Locusts - Locusts make less noise that Crickets, and are slower moving so are easier to catch for most reptiles. However, they are much more expensive than Crickets and so are not commonly used as a staple. Locusts have a longer lifespan than Crickets, but also get to a much larger size, so adult locusts are an unacceptable food item for Crested Geckos for risk of choking. Juvenile Locusts are often called 'Hoppers'. Locusts have a similar nutritional content to Crickets, and so require supplementation and gut-loading. Breeding is relatively easy, and so a colony of Locusts may provide a reliable food source and also an interesting display, as adults are quite beautiful. Henkel and Seipp's 2000 publication 'Rhacodactylus' claims that Locusts are less readily accepted as a prey item than other live foods, but this seems to be down to the individual gecko's preferences.
Roaches - Roaches are becoming more and more popular as a food item in the reptile keeping community. The species most commonly used are Blatta Lateralis and other tropical species. It is thought that due to the climate in the
Mealworms - Mealworms make a poor choice as a staple feeder insect due to the high level of Chitin in their outer coating. The material is difficult to digest and can actually cause impaction in some cases. Horror stories of mealworms 'burrowing' through live animals from the inside float around the internet, but these are unconfirmed and unlikely to be true. In any case, many keepers remove the heads from the mealworms before feeding as they do have nasty jaws. I do not feed mealworms to any of my animals, although they would be fine for an occasional treat.
Morio/Super worms- These are a very large version of mealworms, which are an even worse choice, in my opinion, than mealworms. The jaws on these worms are quite large and can inflict considerable damage to a gecko, and are mostly far too large to be fed to a Crested gecko.
Waxworms - Waxworms are also a bad choice of staple feeder as they have a high fat content which can lead to problems with obesity and fatty liver disease, however they are a great treat item, and useful for feeding females that have just laid a clutch. They do not have the same chitinous coating as mealworms, and so are a much better choice. Waxworms are readily available online and from pet stores, mostly delivered in small plastic containers filled with sawdust. They will survive for a number of weeks, before encasing themselves in a cocoon. If given the right conditions, the moths will emerge and can also be used as a feeder item, or used to start a colony.
Supplementation: If you feed only the Crested Gecko Diet, no additional supplements will be needed as it is designed as a complete diet. However, if CGD is not the only thing in their diet, supplements may be necessary as the diet will have been altered.
The correct supplementation of Calcium and vitamin D3 is particularly important in keeping healthy animals, and is often misunderstood. In the wild, animals produce vitamin D3 in their skin via exposure to UVB light. In a captive environment, the natural synthesis of vitamin D3 cannot occur and so it must be provided artificially. Vitamin D3 is used by the body in order to uptake Calcium, and without D3 the body cannot utilise the Calcium it obtains in its food and it will suffer Ca deficiency problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) even if it is eating enough Calcium. Therefore, D3 must be supplemented to captive animals. However, if too much artificial D3 is given, the animal’s body will uptake too much Calcium, and the results can be as debilitating as MBD itself. It is important to know if your supplements include D3 or not. D3 should not be supplemented everyday, and so a pure Ca powder (such as Calypso) is needed in addition to a combinational supplement that includes the D3 (such as Nutrabal). CGD includes both Calcium and low levels of D3 making it safe as an everyday food source.
Here are examples of the supplementation regimes that should be followed with various diets…
CGD: Requires no additional supplementation. Additional pure Calcium may be safely provided if you want. Live foods (once or twice a week) and CGD: Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium 1-2 times a week. No extra D3 needed. Livefoods (more than twice a week) and CGD: Dust feeder insects with a multivitamin including D3 (i.e. Nutrabal) once a week, and with pure Calcium on every other feed. Live foods only (Not Recommended): Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium at every feed, and with a multivitamin including D3 1-2 times per week. Live foods and Fresh fruit/baby food: Dust feeder insects with pure Calcium at every feed. Add multivitamin powder including D3 to fruit/baby food 1-2 times per week.
Gut Loading: In themselves, feeder insects are relatively low in nutritional value. All live foods need to be fed in order to keep them alive, and so by feeding the insects with nutritional foods the content of the live food can be boosted. Most feeder insects will drown if left a dish of water to drink, and so by far the easiest way to provide moisture is with fruit and vegetables such as potato and apple, which also provide essential vitamins and minerals which are then passed on to the gecko. Crickets and Roaches will eat almost anything, and so a range of items can be used to gut-load them, from fish food, to vegetables, to specifically made gels which are designed as a gut-load. Leftover CGD is a perfect gut-loading item, as the insects appear to enjoy it, and it’s very high in nutritional content. |
keepers, but the best all round option is to use a meal replacement powder known as 'Crested Gecko Diet'. The company ‘T-Rex’, in conjunction with renowned US breeder ‘Allen Repashy’ has developed a complete diet range for all of the Rhacodactylus species, which provides all of the nutrition needed to keep the species healthy. Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) is commonly available in small 1.35oz pots in most pet stores, or can be bought in larger quantities online from the Breeding
The Crested Gecko is a relatively easy species to breed. Their prolific nature means that unlike many other gecko species, they can be successfully paired relatively easily. Crested Geckos are usually less picky about their mates than other species in the genus (such as R. leachianus), and so pairing the geckos can be as simple as placing male and female healthy, mature geckos in the same vivarium. Pairs and groups of geckos should be closely observed for any fighting or bullying issues, but this is not usually a problem with this species. Some breeders choose to leave the male in with the female/s for a few months at a time (as do I), however other breeders may leave the male in the females vivarium for only a few hours or a week, just long enough for copulation. If the male is to be left in with the females, then he must be separated for at least 2 months per year (usually during winter) to give all geckos a break from breeding and a chance to build up their reserves. I separate my males for at least 4 months each year, usually between September and February. Introducing the Geckos: Before introducing male and female/s, all geckos must be healthy, and weigh at least 35gm. This is usually reached at around 14-18months, although some individuals may take longer. This weight limit is recommended as a minimum as it Male Crested Gecko sniffing female upon introduction The Mating Process: During the mating process, the male will mount the female, and grasp the soft crested part of her neck Pair of Crested Geckos just finishing mating; note the shape of the hemipenes! These wonderfully disgusting photographs are courtesy of James Huth (www.ExtremeCream.org)
Close up of hemipenes. Courtesy of James Huth Production of the Eggs: The gestation period is usually between 30-35 days. The female will produce 2 eggs in each clutch, and may lay 1 clutch approximately each month. Sperm may be retained in the female and used to fertilise eggs, usually up to 4 months after a single copulation. It has even been noted that fertile eggs have been laid 8 months after mating. Egg Laying: The female will usually bury her eggs in a moist substrate to ensure that they do not dry out. It is important to supply females with a suitable lay-box for her to deposit her eggs. If no suitable place is provided, it may lead to the female becoming egg-bound. An open container, large enough for the gecko to sit in (such as a Cricket tub or Tupperware box) should be filled with damp substrate, a few inches deep. Suitable substrates may be Coco-earth, peat compost, Sphagnum moss or a mixture of these with vermiculite. The lay-box should be concealed to provide a private and secure place for the female to lay. This can be done with pieces of cork bark or driftwood, or anything you can think of. Incubation:The lay-box should be checked daily, and eggs removed carefully. Unlike poultry eggs, once laid reptile eggs should not be turned for risk of drowning the developing embryo by severing the attachment to the shell. A small mark or line should be carefully drawn on the top of the egg in pencil to ensure that they do not get turned by accident. Picture above; Crested Gecko eggs next to Penny for size comparison. The egg on the left is freshly laid, The other two eggs are two months into incubation. Note the size difference, and the vertical stretch marks on the older eggs. Crested Gecko eggs should be maintained at a temperature between 72-79F. Although an incubator as used for reptile eggs requiring more heat is not needed, a steady temperature should be maintained, and so a home-made incubator is perfect for this job. Eggs should be kept in a plastic container, such as a Tupperware tub or tackle box on a substrate of moistened vermiculite or perlite. A few small holes may be pierced into the container, although if you find that humidity is difficult to maintain, an airtight box, opened twice weekly to freshen the air will work just as well. I choose to use an airtight container to allow me to maintain moisture levels. Here is a short step-by-step showing the method I use for incubating Crested gecko eggs: 1. 2. Using a non-toxic pen or a pencil, gently mark the top side of the egg with a line. This is so that you can make sure the egg does not get rolled during incubation. 3. Take a cocktail stick and break it into 2 equal halves. 4. Using a marker (here I use a whiteboard marker) colour the cocktail stick in a bright colour to make it stand out from the vermiculite. 5. Insert the coloured cocktail stick into the vermiculite near each egg. This acts as a marker so you know where each egg is buried and do not disturb it by accident. 6. Cover the egg in a light covering of vermiculite/perlite. I choose to completely bury my eggs because this prevents condensation dripping from the lid of the tupperware directly onto the egg and suffocating the embryo. 7. Replace the lid of the container, making sure it is air-tight. I do not drill any holes in the lid of my containers, as I found that humidity was too hard to maintain. I ensure my eggs get good ventilation I 8. On the lid of the container, over the area that the eggs are placed, use a whiteboard marker (or some other pen which is easily wipeable on plastic) to mark the details of the eggs. I include the lay date (L:Day-Month-Year), prospected hatch dates (D:Day-Month-Month) (calculated 2-3months from lay date) and the parents of the egg. Marking the container; Mim = mothers name. L= lay date, D= due dates, therefore these eggs were layed my Madame Mim on the 17th September 2008 and are due to hatch on the 17th November -December 2008. 9. Leave the eggs to incubate at an appropriate temperature (I incubate at around 75-78F) for around 60-90days. Candling: A few days after the eggs are laid, the eggs can be carefully candled with a torch to give an idea of whether they are fertile or not, and in some cases you can even see the developing embryo. Being careful not to turn the egg, darken the room and gently shine a torch through the egg. The egg should glow softly if you have done it correctly. A fertile egg should glow pink or red, and an infertile egg will glow yellow. Of course this is just an indication and should by no means be used as an exact science and so if you candle an egg as yellow, please do not throw it away until you are 100% it is not going to hatch. Eggs that are infertile or dehydrated will usually dent or collapse, and infertile eggs will also often begin to mould. Small dents caught quickly may sometimes resolved by placing a single sheet of dampened tissue paper loosely over the dent if the dent is due to dehydration, although be careful not to smother the egg with the tissue. Small amounts of mould may result from the incubator being too humid, in which case it is sometimes possible to save the egg by gently wiping the mould off of the egg, however if the mould keeps returning then it is unlikely that the egg hatch. Hatchling Care: Eggs should hatch between 60-100 days. Lower temperatures will result in longer incubation times, It is good practise to weigh hatchling geckos so that you can keep a record of the geckos growth rate. Hatchling Crested Geckos usually weigh between 1 and 2g. Young Crested geckos are very skittish and fast, and so handling should be kept to a minimum to avoid stress and accidents. I advise always handling or Crested Geckos close to floor level, to minimise the risk of them falling or jumping and hurting themselves. Hatchling enclosures should be kept minimally, with either no substrate, or kitchen paper to avoid impaction or accidents. It also helps you to monitor the hatchlings 'bowel movements'. Geckos should not be offered up for sale until they are at least 4 weeks old. This may all depend on the individual gecko, and those that are weaker or smaller than others may need to be kept for longer. Geckos younger than this are very fragile and do not cope well with the stress of moving, and even more so where courier and delivery is involved. I personally try not to sell geckos under 2 or 3 months old unless I know that the buyer is experienced enough to raise it and it is locally collected. |
ensures that they are large enough to remain healthy during egg production and have the reserves necessary to do so. Egg production and laying is a very demanding process and, as with humans, if the female doesn't have enough reserves of important vitamins (such as Calcium) to produce the eggs, she will reabsorb them from her own skeleton which will lead to calcium crashing and in the worst cases, Metabolic Bone Disease.
with his mouth. Various clicks and noises may be heard whilst mating is happening, and although it may look quite rough, it is perfectly normal. After copulation, the male will dismount and begin to lick his hemipenis, which will be protruding from the cloaca. The male will lick the area until they return to their normal position. NOTE: If the hemipenis can still be seen a few hours after copulation, then a prolapse may have occurred. This will require veterinary attention. Please see the M
Carefully remove the eggs from the vivarium, and place in a tupperware container filled with around 1-2 inches of moistened vermiculite or perlite. NOTE: Take care not to roll the eggs. This can kill the developing embryo.
Step 6; Covering the eggs
open the lid of the tupperware at least once per week.
but overall will lead to healthier, stronger hatchlings. Higher temperatures result in shorter incubation times, but the hatchlings may be weak due to developing too fast. It is not a race to produce hatchlings the fastest, but the healthiest hatchlings possible. Once hatched, the hatchling should be carefully transferred to a small, ventilated container such as a 'Faunarium'. Any perlite/vermiculite stuck to the hatchling should be carefully removed with something such as a paintbrush or cotton bud, as when the hatchling has its first shed,
the perlite may get swallowed with the skin and cause the gecko to choke.
A small dish of water and a dish of CGD (Crested Gecko Diet) should be provided as soon as the gecko hatches. The gecko may need encouragement to start eating the CGD, so apply a small drop onto its nose, and watch it lick it off. It will soon begin eating the CGD readily. If the gecko is feeding on CGD, then live foods are not required, however, suitably sized live foods may be given a week or so after hatching if you decide to. It appears from other breeders records that geckos raised with live foods in their diet may have a faster initial growth rate, and so you may prefer to feed suitably sized crickets once a week. Young Crested Geckos have a very small stomach capacity, somewhere around the size of 1/4 of a pea! Therefore many keepers worry that their young geckos are not eating as it doesn't seem to have made a dent in its food. This is one of the reasons I highly recommend using a substrate of kitchen paper, as you can easily spot when the geckos has been to the toilet, and so tell if it is eating. Hybridization
Although a very controversial topic in the Rhacodactylus community, hybrids of R.ciliatus (Crested Gecko) and R.chahoua (Mossy Gecko) have been successfully produced in captivity. ciliatus/chahoua hybrid. Courtesy of Mike @Dragontown Due to the more predictable nature of Crested gecko reproduction, the vast majority of hybrid breeding projects have used a male chahoua and female ciliatus. The hatch rate for these geckos is very low, partly as the shell is highly calcified (a trait inherited from R.chahoua). The controversy of hybridization stems largely from concerns about the captive gene pool becoming 'tainted' with hybrid blood. At present, only male hybrids have been produced, so HybridXHybrid breeding has not been able to be attempted. However, the hybrids produced so far are fertile, and attempts at breeding a hybrid back to a female Crested or Mossy gecko have allegedly been successful. The 75:25 hybrids that would result from breeding a hybrid back to a pure Crested or Mossy gecko look increasingly similar to the pure animal, and this causes the fear that the pure species gene pool will become 'tainted' with hybrid blood. Hybrids are very rarely offered up for sale due to their rarity in the hobby, but also due to this controversy. The sales of such hybrids are closely monitored and vetted to ensure that 'unscrupulous' breeders do not jeopardize the captive population, and turn the cynics fears into reality. I personally cannot see these fears being justified, as the hybrids are harder to breed than either of the parent species, and so selling hybrids as 'normal/pure' Crested or Mossy geckos would be nonsensical as hybrids would be worth more. At present, no other success in hybridizing the other Rhacodactylus species have been successful and further experiments are not encouraged. NEWS: At least one female ciliatus/chahoua hybrid has now been produced In the USA! She is not yet of breeding age, so it is not yet known if she is fertile or if the pairing of hybridXhybrid will be successful! |
