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Review of new Manx2.com route to Gloucester


THE COSTWOLDS AND WALES 4-6 Sep 2007

Visit to the shires of Gloucester, Oxford, Worcester and Hereford followed by the wilds of Powys, S.E. Wales and concluding in Monmouthshire and The Forest of Dean 

[To enlarge/see albums (except 'Gari own' photos) ,  hover over picture and click Finger. If no finger, click source name] 

21 Jan 2009 
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Broadway, Worcestershire
(© Gari own photo )

Home . Back . Forwards to Wiltshire 

GLOUCESTERSHIRE
~>Map at
Gloucestershire, Wiltshire and the South West 

Manx2.com trip - 04-06 Sept 2007 (Report split by county at ~>Homepage )
Hyperlinks to source photographs and references are all well worth clicking as they lead to a wealth of information, history and picture galleries.


~>Manx2.com started a new daily service from the Isle of Man to Gloucester (Staverton) and onwards weekends to Jersey details of which are at the end of this report.    In order to check out the regional touring possibilities afforded, I went down to Gloucester on one of the first flights for a couple of days

The ~>Metro 23 (pic) flight from the Isle of Man (which took off early in both directions in my case) takes only 55mins and is as comfortable as it is rewarding in that an initial one way fare of below £50 brings one to a nice small quiet airport right next to the M5 motorway between Gloucester and Cheltenham with the Vale of Evesham, Stratford upon Avon (Warwickshire), Herefordshire, the Welsh Black Mountains & Brecon Beacons, Abergavenny, The Forest of Dean and the Severn Bridge at Chepstow all within easy, and most rewarding, reach. 
An abundance of quaint Costwolds market towns, stately manors and parks and themed gardens together with majestic cathedrals and spires and innumerable castles are all the rewards for a local drive.

There is no airport bus service to Staverton Airport (but there is a local bus to within 6mins walk away) and one is advised to rent a vehicle in advance, ensuring that they provide a pick-up and drop-off service

Gloucestershire Airport Main Terminal    View of aircraft landing
Gloucestershire Airport Terminal                                   A landing at GLO
     (thanks to
gloucestershireairport.co.uk)

In my case, the pick-up worked but no drop-off service was provided (as promised).
Taxi fare to/from Cheltenham is around £9 and to/from Gloucester £15

Gloucester Cathedral
Gloucester Cathedral
(
gloucestershireairport.co.uk)

Details of recommendations of services and accommodation used can be found at the end of this report and, in detail at:
http://travel.holidays.com/recommendations  under SW England (Gloucestershire and Wiltshire), SE England (Oxfordshire), West Midlands (Worcestershire and Herefordshire) and Central Wales (Brecon) and South Wales (Monmouthshire, Newport)

The trip described below was to reconnoiter the possibilities and could well have been exteneded to 1 to 2 weeks.  In fact, a week in The Forest of Dean region and Herefordshire would not bore and I shall re-visit Gloucestershire at a later date and drive out to an area which I have yet to visit - Pembrokeshire and Cardigan Bay.

Plan your trip - Check opening times
Customer service
is not a British virtue when it comes to visiting buildings and gardens or eating and drinking and frustrating on this trip were the castles, stately homes and gardens that either didn't open until 10 or 11am , closed too early in the afternoon or were closed on certain days of the week.  "Open on Wednesdays" is of little consolation to a "Tuesday traveller".   One got the impression that one had to be grateful to be able to pay the entrance fees.  Check out websites or perhaps ring before planning the extra journeys into your tour. 
The UK habit of opening late and closing early any food and drink establishment that you might need is also off-putting.  Foreign visitors should be aware that eating times tend to be restricted in the UK and food and drink might not be available when you so desire.  Careful route planning helps considerably (I used Microsoft Auto Route Express which compares with a similar product from the AA and a free trip planner is also available at michelin.co.uk ). 
One should not necessarily plan visits to Castles or stately houses before 11am or after 4pm without checking their opening times.  Mines and caves might admit last visitors as early as 3pm.

"B-road Britain"
Interesting was the fact that my love of using B roads conincided with an ITV production "B-road Britain" with Robbie Coltrane which ran as I travelled - but which I never got chance to see.  I can fully recommend keeping away from the main arteries as that way one see the England that is lost to most tourists.  Indeed, the section from Cheltenham to Cirencester was the longest main road stretch that I travelled in all 3 days and not all of that was on the main A-road.

Day 1 - 4 Sep 2007

Isle of Man to Gloucester and onwards via Wiltshire and Oxforshire to the upper Cotswolds

After picking up a hire-car in Gloucester I paid a short visit to 

Cheltenham
is probably one of the most complete Regency towns in Britain today. It sprang from an Anglo Saxon village well over a thousand years ago. It became a market town in 1226. In the 18th century, medicinal waters were discovered and by the end of the century it was one of the countries leading Spa towns. By the end of the 18th century it's hey day as a spa was over, and many of the Regency buildings the visitor can see today were built in this period. (visit-gloucestershire.co.uk/gloucestershire/towns ).  The town is 
best known for its racecourse (hosts the National Hunt and the Gold Cup Race) and also has a strong festival history (jazz, folk, literary and science festivals) as well as the prolific Cheltenham Music Festival. 

Mid morning traffic encouraged me to move on without having done Cheltenham justice and it was down the quieter roads to the beautiful and much quieter Cirencester  for coffee on the first floor of an antique shop on the main square.


The Fleece Hotel, Cirencester
cotswolds.info

Cirencester lies on the River Churn, a tributary of the River Thames, and is the largest town in Cotswold District. It is home of the Royal Agricultural College, the oldest agricultural college in the English-speaking world founded in 1840. The Corinium Museum is well-known for its extensive Roman collection. Its Roman name was Corinium.  (visit-gloucestershire.co.uk/gloucestershire/towns)

Next was close to the source of the River Thames (map) and to Somerford Keynes (locally pronounced 'kayns') where a distant relative has a house straddling a weed filled ditch that is the young Thames


Comfortable living in Somerford Keynes
(© Gari own photo)

The actual spring which marks the source of the Thames is marked by a commemorative headstone at Trewsbury House (note fort and ancient village remains) between Tarlton and nearby Kemble (A433) - see thames-search.com/source.

Onwards into Wiltshire and to neighbouring village of  Ashton Keynes, Wilts 

Home . Back . Forwards to Oxfordshire

WILTSHIRE
Map at Gloucestershire, Wiltshire and the South West 

Much of Wiltshire is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Trowbridge is the vibrant, industrial and commercial county town. Salisbury is a stunning medieval city with the beautiful Salisbury Cathedral boasting the highest spire in England. Boating along the famous Kennet and Avon Canal is a popular and relaxing pastime. Wiltshire has a multitude of exciting attractions including, the worldwide famous ancient monument 'Stonehenge' symbolizing mystery, power and endurance. Other local places of interest are Swindon, the biggest town in the county, Chippenham, and the quaint old town of Devizes. (picturesofengland)


The White Hart Inn, and village cross Ashton Keynes, Wilts
(© ashtonkeynes.org.uk)

The Manx2 trip brought me to Ashton Keynes  and the comfortable White Hart Inn where I had had such a good meal some years back.  Nearby is the lovely Malmesbury Abbey (built on the site of an 8th century Saxon monastery and which by the 12th century was an important Benedictine Abbey and noted seat of learning which  possessed the second largest library in Europe) and the lovely Abbey House built 1542 on the foundations of the old 13th century Abbots House, and its magnificent gardens.  The house was once the Abbott's home and part of a former Benedictine Monastery. 

On to the historic town of Cricklade (on Thames) and its many gracious Cotswold stone properties and impressive church.   Cricklade prospered as a Saxon town in the 9th cent.and medieval times and depended largely on wool.  The beautiful 


St.Sampson church, Cricklade, Wilts 
threehorseshoescricklade.co.uk

was originally Saxon but much of what can be seen today is thanks to restoration work in the 14th-15th centuries. The interior displays much Norman work, whilst the magnificent exterior is dominated by a layered tower dating from 1553. The churchyard houses ancient tombstones and the town's 14th-century cross.

A Historic Tour of Swindon
The Swindon and Cricklade Heritage Steam Railway Line,
heritagebritain.com

a project which  began 25 yrs ago and is still extending is to be found here also.  

Crossing into Oxfordshire  after Highworth, the next destination on the way to Wantage was to be Waylands Smithy and the Uffington White Horse - adequately described and illustrated by
the TJ  trip report  (~~~> SE England, Oxfordshire).  

Favourite parts:  Especially Somerford and Ashton Keynes and the Heritage Steam Railway.   Next - Oxfordshire below

Home . Back . Onwards back to Gloucestershire


OXFORDSHIRE


Waylands Smithy, Oxon ©NatRail
Pictures of England for map & detail of Oxfordshire

(TJ) contd   Cryptanalysis, chalk horses and co-habitation! .....We then went to the Oxfordshire Kelmscott, where William Morris and Rossetti lived in a ménage a trois with Morris's wife Jane and where the Morris's are buried (very very pretty) and Buscot, a nearby Georgian house which had a Burne Jones room which was stunning.

The walk along The Ridgeway (a Neolithic pathway still in use along the tops of the hills in Oxfordshire, Wiltshire, Berkshire and stretching from the North Wessex Downs [Marlborough] to the Chilterns [Ivinghoe Beacon NE of Aylesbury]) 3 miles to the Uffington White Horse (map, story and pics of the chalk figure) via Waylands Smithy, Oxon (a long barrow which the Saxons thought was the smithy of their god Wayland).  Map and the history of The Ridgeway to be found at Canyx.tv which produced the BBC programme "7 Wonders of the South" pres. by Prof Aubrey Manning  in May 2005.  A video clip and the photographs in original size are fantastic.

   
Ridgeway - The White Horse and Uffington Castle © Carnyx.tv

Uffington Castle is an Iron Age hill fort crowning White Horse Hill.  A simple design of one rampart and ditch, the castle, at 857ft (262m), forms the highest point in Oxfordshire. The original W entrance remains, whilst smaller entrances through the S and NE ramparts were created by the Romano-British during their occupation of the site.  Between the castle and the Horse lie a number of burial mounds (notably the Pillow Mound). These date from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages and are unusual in that they were reused for Romano-British and Anglo-Saxon burials (Carnyx.tv from NationalTrust.org.uk)

Manx2.com trip - Sept 2007 (Report split by county at ~>Homepage )

This trip, which starts under SW England > Gloucestershire also went near Waylands Smithy and the Uffington White Horse Hill (described above by TJ), passing close to Farringdon on the way to Wantage for lunch.. 

After lunch it was off northwards via as many B-roads as possible via West Hanney to:
Faringdon
  is a town of immense historical interest, being home of King Alfred, and his son Edward.  The first King of England died in Faringdon. During the 1930’s Lord Berners built England’s last folly on the outskirts of the town.
Longcot  (Vale of the White Horse) - The heart of the village is very much centred around its green and the 13th Cent church.
Longcot grew as a result of its wharf which saw coal, wool, beer and grain passing along the canal. With the demise of the canals, dairy farming became the dominant employer. The tower of the church was rebuilt after its collapse in 1722. The churchyard is carefully managed to ensure that it is a wildlife garden.  Longcot was awarded the Marlborough Trophy for Oxfordshire's Best Kept Village in 2002  (Local area map showing Buscot, Farringdon, Longcot, Vale of the White Horse, Uffington, Wantage)

 

   
          Buscot Park and Gardens,              St Mary's Church
 dkimages.com                   costwolds.info                         oxfordcitybranch.org.uk

Buscot, Oxon (a lovely mansion) -  a "must" for you itinerary.  However, the house is open Wednesdays but not Tuesdays and so I had to make do with viewing the beautiful gardens.
Advised to see the wonderful stained glass windows of Buscot Church, I moved on to the nearby village of Buscot but shyed away when a charming young lady told me that I had half a kilometre walk across the fields in front of me to get to church (they must be very religious in Buscot).  Hardly had I returned to the road direction Lechlade, Glos, than I saw the church of Buscot with small track and parking places (sinners can drive to church!).  However, the house of prayer was closed and locked and I'll have to see those windows online if I can find them.  It is a cute little church and well worth the stop however.  

Buscot church is located on the banks of the upper Thames just to the S of the village. There is a fine Norman chancel with tower from the 15th Cent.  The pulpit is said to be made from Flemish altar panels. To the rear of the church lies the idyllic Cheese Wharf, a beautiful stretch of water that loops off from Buscot Lock. 

From Oxfordshire (see SE England > Oxfordshire above) between Buscot and Kelmscott, Oxon  the route led to the nearby village of


Lechlade-on-Thames (
Glos)
  
thames-path.org.uk

This beautiful little market town, beside the upper reaches of the River Thames, is dominated by the elegant spire of the beautiful parish church of St.Lawrence, so named on the order of Catherine of Aragon.  The 400yr old door, leading from the chancel to the vestry, has a carving of a Pomegranite - the badge of Queen Catherine. Built in the 15th-century, it is Perpendicular style of local stone.  The is decorated with gargoyles and statues. As with many other Cotswold churches,  St.Lawrence's thanks the generosity of local wool merchants. The interior of the church houses some fine treasures including a magnificent brass chandelier above the centre aisle, made in London in 1730.  The poet Shelley visited  the town in August 1815 when he wrote 'Stanzas in Lechlade Churchyard'. The visit is recorded by a plaque and the walk through the churchyard affectionately called, Shelley's Walk.  .

Onwards then to the nearby 


    Kelmscott, Oxo
  
 c.KelmscottManor.co.uk

Kelmscott, Oxo  A majestic country hall by the River Thames (described above by TJ) but which is closed for the 2007 season following flooding in July.  Kelmscott manor gates were not locked but it did have a dog that quite definitely was not welcoming visitors.

       
Burford Main Street                                                    The Tolsey Museum, Burford
(© Gari own photos)

Plan the next stop Burford into your itinerary.  Burford is an historical market town in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds which indeed earns all the praise it receives for attractiveness. Its church ranks amongst the top 20 churches in England and the town cannot fail to inspire visitors who walk through its ancient streets.  Once a thriving wool town, 'The Tolsey' - an ancient market house on the main street - where once wealthy traders would meet and do business bears evidence. 
Sadly, I hit the wrong road and found myself on the B road to Charlbury which was to be a later destination (below) and thus missed the following section in italics:

Taking the A40 and A4095 it is not far to Minster Lovell (renowned as one of the loveliest villages along the Windrush valley).


Pretty home at Minster Lovell
completely-cotswold.com

Minster Lovell has all the attributes of the perfect English village, including age old legends. Francis Lovell, of Minster Lovell Hall (video at www.cotswoldswebsite.com), supported the 15th cent.  pretender Lambert Simnel. He hid in a secret room which was known only to one servant.  However, the servant died suddenly, leaving Lovell unable to get out, and to eventually die of starvation. In the early 18th century, during alterations, the skeleton of a man was discovered in a concealed room which, according to many, was the body of Francis Lovell, and the legend thus confirmed.
Minster Lovell has beautiful honey mellow Cotswold stone houses and inns - The Mill and Old Swan is a fine example, which stands (for over 600 years) in the midst of a lovely estate on the banks of the river.  The village 
in its beautiful dream-like setting against the gently rising Cotswold landscape, has a history going back to Saxon times and has a 500yr old bridge spanning the meandering Windrush, attractive cottages, and spectacular 15th century ruins of a once great house, home of the Lovell's, which was visited by Henry VII on no less than three occasions.


Blenheim Palace
Shakespeare-Country.co.uk)

Close by is Witney (see 'The Buttercross' and the History Museum relating to the blanket trade) followed by  Blenheim Palace (Woodstock) home of the 11th Duke of Marlborough and birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill who is buried at nearby Bladon.
Woodstock was a favoured place of royalty and it is believed that before the Norman Conquest, Kings of England stayed in the town. King Alfred is thought to have visited and Woodstock was granted market rights by Henry II. Borough status was gained by the 13th-century. The town has a particular charm, with a pleasant market place and historic inns and handsome 18th-century buildings, some of which link to Blenheim. The home of the poet Geoffrey Chaucer is here, and the 17th-century museum - Fletcher's House.Now via the A44 and B4437 over

Charlbury and unnumbered road N to Chadlington.  Set on Chadlington Downs amidst attractive walking country just a short distance away from the lovely River Evenlode the picturesque Chadlington has lovely old Cotswold cottages, an atmospheric inn from the 17th cent, a couple of pleasant shops, and beautiful countryside footpaths to wander. A short distance away is the enchanting Wychwood Forest, where Henry VIII, and other Tudor monarchs hunted. The forest is a romantic place, offering wonderful scenery and a rich variety of wildlife and has been designated an area of outstanding natural beauty.

                                              
Wynchwood Forest                                                                     Wooden Signposts
(wychwoodnetwork.org.uk)                                                 (© ardingly.fsbusiness.co.uk)

In both Oxfordshire and in Gloucestershire, one must watch out for the black and white wooden signposts which suddenly appear and demand a change of direction - especially to the many other lesser known villages and hamlets to explore in this part of the Cotswolds   Their quiet charm makes for a pleasant alternative to the popular tourist filled resort towns. Often you come across the unexpected - in the outlying hamlet of Taston you can see an old village cross and a Victorian commemorative fountain.  The Bronze-Age Hawk Stone can be seen in a field a short distance away from the village, and at Spelsbury are interesting ancient buildings of the 17th cent.

On to Chipping Norton  which lies in the midst of beautiful cotswold countryside and is surrounded by other villages that radiate the glory of traditional honey-coloured Cotswold stone manor houses and magnificent Churches.


Cotswold stone alms houses
cotswoldswebsite.com

It is a town to be explored and enjoyed and indeed lives up to its descriptive superlatives.  This picturesque Cotswold town had a woollen mill that continued in production until 1980 (Bliss Mill) It contributed to the establishment of the town as a centre for fine cloth.  
Chipping Norton (700ft) is the highest town in Oxfordshire. The winding,  'higgledy-piggledy' roads add to the charm of the place. Evidence of medieval  merchants who flocked to the Cotswolds and how the town thrived from the riches gleaned from the fleece of the sheep who grazed in the lush countryside beyond is evident. This is the area of the 17th-century 'wool towns'.  The fine parish church of St.Mary the Virgin is one of the largest parish churches in Oxfordshire. The south porch is hexagonal and stands two storeys high. Close to the church are almshouses from the 17th-century.  In the  town centre there are several early Cotswold stone properties. The Crown and Cushion (coaching) Inn dates from 1497.  The old Guildhall has Tudor windows and some former private historic houses have been converted into interesting antique shops.


The main circle at Rollright, Oxon
(© Gari own photo)

Nearby Attractions:  On no account miss a visit to the nearby Rollright Stones - mysterious relics of a Neolithic burial site, to the north or Chipping Norton nr the village of Great Rollright in the Oxfordshire/Warwickshire borderlands.  A charming B-road leads via Over Norton to this well signposted site.

Back through Chipping Norton, we take the B4450 to Churchill and  the zig-zag way to Gloucestershire.  After crossing the River Evenlode, do not take the sharp right to Bledington, Glos but a sharp left to nearby Foscot, Oxon and a right fork there to Bould and onwards to Idbury (see its church.  The ancient hill fort can be seen larger at www.ucl.ac.uk/prehistoric/past/past40.html). 

           
     Idbury Church              Hill Fort Idbury
completely-cotswold.com           www.ucl.ac.uk

After Idbury one joins the main A424 road at Idbury stone, leaving Oxfordshire and headed for Upper Risslington. (Contd. SW England > Gloucestershire 

Favourite parts of Oxfordshire:  All Oxfordshire including the parts missed out and especially the northern Cotswolds

Home . Back . On to Worcestershire

RETURN TO GLOUCESTERSHIRE (from Oxfordshire)

After, Kelmscott, Chipping Norton and an exciting zig-zag route to Idbury (see SE England > Oxfordshire)  I left Oxfordshire via the A424 and, after approx 2km, turned left and through the delightful Upper and Little Rissington headed for 

Bourton-on-the-Water (Venice of the Cotswolds) which is absolutely delightful  if the River Windrush is at normal water levels.  Passing by B-roads over the nearby Lower and Upper Slaughter it isn't far to Stow-on-the-Wold.  Lower Slaughter is absolutely charming but is surpassed by the extremely picturesque photo-stop Upper Slaughter.  

   
Bourton-on-theWater                                                                          Upper Slaughter 
shakespeare-country.co.uk)                        
                                  (© Gari own photo)

Stow-on-the-Wold is yet another busy Cotswold market town and can be seen by clicking its name.


Stow-on-theWold
visit-gloucestershire.co.uk

Leaving Stow-on-the-Wold by the A429 and forking left onto the A424 it is once again not far to

Longborough and a good meal at a local inn and the night at the fabulous
 
Windy Ridge House - a 5 star B&B manor with wonderful gardens, indoor swimming pool and a decor that reflects years of travel and care (see Recommendations SW England). 
 
Why not spoil yourself for a night and enjoy the private bathroom and embracing bed
(Highly Recommended)

Windy Ridge Hall B&B
(© 
WindyRidge )


2nd Day - 5 Sep 2007

After a fine breakfast and thus late start next morning, Moreton-in-Marsh is but a short drive via B roads and the A429. 


Moreton-in-Marsh
visit-gloucestershire.co.uk)

I personally preferred this, also busy market town, to Stow and stopped for souvenir cards and banking.  Via exciting B roads over Draycott, it was off towards Chipping Camden.  These back roads lead passed an impressive manor house and through the best hidden gem of a village - Broad Camden where each and every cottage is thatched.  Indded a treasure right next to but not on the tourist route.

Broad Campden  
Charming Broad Camden                         Chipping Camden
(umdiewelt.de)  (© visit-gloucestershire.co.uk)

Chipping Camden is larger than the road atlas gives credit and it is also a stop for tours having been to Broadway.  Nice if you like the company of tourits and love to drop into souvenir boutiques but one can admire whilst passing and continue to the well signposted Hidcote Manor, again via quaint B roads with white signposts.  Hidcote Manor is a National Trust property with wonderful gardens and an excellent cafe.  I spent too long here but could have spent half a day admiring the house and gardens.  Don't miss the manor or the Maize Maze next door which is accessible from the extended car park.

Intended were visits from Longborough via Ford to nearby Sudely Castle nr Winchcombe (opens 10.00) and Snowshill Manor (opens 11.00), but these had been dropped together with the recently flooded but delightful Tewkesbury in favour of the Broadway,  Elmley Castle, Upton-upon-Severn, Worcs. route to The Malvern Hills (~~~> West Midlands, Worcestershire) 

Home . Back . On to Herefordshire

THE WEST MIDLANDS
Map at  West Midlands

Shropshire and Staffordshire - in the north.  West Midlands - central.  Herefordshire, Worcestershire Warwickshire - in the south. 

WORCESTERSHIRE

Manx2.com trip Sept 2007 - from Gloucestershire
One can move on to Broadway in Worcestershire via direct B-road from Hidcote Manor but easier is via Chipping Camden (Glos),
taking the B4081 to the A44.  One doesn't appreciate how heigh one has climbed until shortly before the descent down Fish Hill to Broadway, a signport to the left indicates Broadway Tower - a folly overlooking the plains of Worcestershire and built in 1800 by the Earl of Coventry who delighted in viewing his folly from the family home in 20ml away Worcester.


Broadway Tower
(© Gari own photo)

Broadway has been called the "show village of England" - a title which one cannot deny (see title photo).  Show villages attract busloads of tourists and one cannot deny that either.  As tourists eat at lunchtime, it is therefore a quieter time to see the village with its mile long wide main street and gracious honey coloured Costwold limestone houses.  The village is so neat and manicured that it tends to be a bit cool and aloof but the people are very friendly and the steep gabled larger houses rising above the dormer-windowed cottages with the odd black and white thatched roof helps to soften the bluffness of weathered stone dwellings.  A cute rural Cotswold village indeed.

Onwards via B roads over Sedgebarrow to Elmley Castle detouring the roads still closed following recent flooding. 
Of course, it pays to research fully before planning as the Castle at Elmley Castle hasn't existed "for 800 years" some amused gents informed me.  I was reminded of Stromferry in Scotland which has a road sign pointing towards it and the words "(no ferry)" in brackets after it.

Elmley Castle cottage

Had I read up properly, Elmley Castle is described as: "one of the most beautiful villages in England. The main street is tree lined, and peeping from behind the trees are well tended gardens backed by a memorable picture of enchanting black and white cottages with creeper clad walls and thatched roofs.  One is reminded of a cross between Cotswold charm and a French village main street.  Little now remains of the Norman stronghold of Elmley Castle but its name and its stones. The castle built in the 11th-century,
for many years was the seat of the Beauchamp family, was a ruin by 1316. It is believed that the castle was rebuilt in the 14th-century but by the 16th-century the castle fell once more into a state of decay, never to be repaired again.                                                                                       (Cottage in Elmley Castle  © britainexpress.com)

Onwards over the River Severn at Upton-upon-Severn and a stop at the friendly Pheasant Inn,  Welland (lovely view of the Malvern Hills from here),


The Pheasant Inn, Welland 
(© Gari own photo)

 before the ascent of the Malvern Hills south of Great Malvern and into (Contd ~~> West Midlands, Herefordshire

Home . Back . On to Powys (Breconshire)

HEREFORDSHIRE

(Manx2.com trip 2007) - coming from Worcestershire, W Midlands

After the welcome stop in Welland, Worcs, the A4104 climbs to the Malvern Hills ridge and joins the A449 as it crosses into Herefordshire and into the attractive market town of Ledbury.


The age-old Trumpet Inn, Trumpet, Herefs
(© Gari own photo)

Headed for Hereford on the A438, one comes to a cross-roads with the A417/A41720 at Trumpet - a name given to the intersection by the quirky 14th century half-timbered Trumpet Inn - The inn is said to be so named from the obligation of coaches that passed by to blow their coach horns. The crossing must have been an important intersection of the Gloucester to Leominster and Tewkesbury to Hereford roads.  The inn serves good ale and has a camping ground.

Hereford 
is a destination county town for many but really does suffer under immense traffic.  Noticable is the prescence of agricultural vehicles and high speed tractors on the main roads.  It isn't the 'Chelsea Tractor' 4x4s that you have to fear in Hereford but massive hands on and quite definitely off-road tractors. 
Leaving Hereford via the A465 Abergavenny road and veering northwards onto the B4349 Clehonger, I headed for


Vowchurch Church
(© Gari own photo)

Vowchurch in The Golden ValleyDo stop at the Vowchurch church which has been totally renovated by volunteers in the passed few years.  The purchase of cards, the history of the church and the jars of jam made by local ladies will all help to further restoration work.  The brother of Lewis Carroll (Skeffington Hume Dodgson) was vicar at Vowchurch from 1895 to 1910 and was visited by the 'Alice in Wonderland' writer on occasion. 


The River Dore next to Vowchurch Church
(© Gari own photo)

This is a beautiful, quiet place for thought and rest on the River Dore and I fear that I dwelt too long for my schedule for that day.  Whatever, I returned home with cards, the history of the church and one jar of Japanese Pear & Ginger jam richer.  The Golden Valley was featured recently on BBC TV as a butterfly rich valley.

Now any normal traveller (especially one who was 3hrs behind schedule) would have returned to the 'main' small B-road to proceed to Hay-on-Wye.  However, I can't count myself as a normal traveller and chose the unmarked road - no, single track with no passing places - over Michaelchurch Escley on the River Monnow and just below Offa's Dyke Path on the Black Mountains


Standing stone on Offa's Dyke nr Michaelchurch Escley
PEN Y BEACON STONE CIRCLE. SO239373 c.  celiahaddon.co.uk

This track headed up and up towards Cefn Hill (486m) which lies close to 


Cusop Hill (402m) c. york-house.eu

(where the beutifully situated York House B&B is located - at very payable price) and almost the top of the Black Mountains from where a wonderful and breathtaking setting sun view of Central Wales could be enjoyed
Tip: 
If you take this route then only with dipped headlights turned on the whole way.

More on beautiful Herefordshire & The Wye Valley at VisitHerefordshire.co.uk  or request their lovely brochure from Tourist Information Centre, Ross-on-Wye tic-ross@hereforshire.gov.uk or talk to them at +44 (0)1989/562 768.  There will be more written about the other regions of this lovely county at /travelreports/#wmidl

Hay on Wye (pop 1900) greets as a Herefordshire town  (This part of the town is administratively separate, and is called Cusop) but announces itself to be Hay-on-Wye / Y Gelli Gandryll, Powys in the middle of the town.   ( ~~~> Central Wales, Powys (Breconshire)   

Home . Back . On to South Wales

Powys (Breconshire/Brecknock)

Manx2.com trip 2007 - from Herefordshire

Hay-on-Wye / Y Gelli Gandryll, Powys is often described as "the town of books".


A book shop in Hay-on-Wye
c. touristnet.uk.com .Stephen Nunnery

The King of Hay-on-Wye.  On 1 Apr 1977, bibliophile Richard George William Pitt Booth declared Hay-on-Wye to be an independent kingdom with himself as its monarch. He sought publicity by declaring Hay an "independent kingdom" with himself as its king. This subsequently developed a healthy tourism industry based on literary interests.  Booth recently announced plans to sell his bookshop and move to Germany and, local MP Roger Williams was quoted as saying "His legacy will be that Hay changed from a small market town into a Mecca for second-hand book lovers and this transformed the local economy"

(TJ trip)
When we went via Oxfordshire to Wales, and stayed one night at Clyro Court, Hay-on-Wye, Powys at the Baskerville Hall ,


Baskerville Hall nr Hay-on-Wye
(© conferences-uk)
 
now an hotel (and I use the word in the very loosest sense). It was where Conan Doyle stayed when he had the idea for The Hound of the Baskervilles story, and isn't on Dartmoor at all, but on the Welsh borders. We got worried when we arrived at the hotel as the place was in darkness and not a soul about. We rang the reception bell and the chef appeared. He managed to find our room key and we were told the hotel was full. Our room was right up in the eaves - old Victorian servants quarters - and not decorated since the 1960s at the very least. We had to turn the lights on as we went up the interminable staircases, didn't see a soul and are convinced we were the only guests.
Our room was cramped. My partner turned down the bed and a huge spider ran out. The window was so badly fitted that the wind whistled through the sides of the frame and the shower only worked if you held the shower-head below waist level. To cap it all, there was something lurking at the bottom of the lavatory bowl from a previous occupant and, when we arrived for breakfast, we were told that we hadn't been expected and the breakfast things had been packed away! We had been told that breakfast was served from 8.00 to 9.30 (it was 8.30). We just treated it as a joke and a very bad one at that. I lost my £20 deposit but refused to pay the balance. Want the address? I think not! This place is really for those who want a "mystical weekend".  
After Baskerville Hall and after perusing the bookshops at Hay on Wye (Y Gelli), we stayed in a fine hotel, The Swan at Hay
The Swan at Hay Hotel
Swan at Hay - ©  hotels.uk.com 
 
 

European Geoparks  
The Black Mountains
 © breconbeacons.org                 © heduin.com

As the evening was drawing closer, I sped on past the impressive Black Mountains (very specially illuminated by the setting sun) towards Brecon which lies under impressive moorland hills to the west of Brecon. - the famous 

(c) Wales Tourist Board. All rights reserved
Brecon Beacons
Thks to ©  ukstudentlife.com (Wales Tourist Bd)

Brecon can be by-passed and a choice of directions is offered: 

1.-Either the short route A40 east between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons to Abergavenny in Monmouthshire 
2.-The A470 direction Cardiff

 through the brecon beacons - Wales
over/through the Brecon Beacons
(Photo by aarrgh Virtual Tourist)

to Merthyr Tydfil (contd there)


3.-The tourist route via A470 as above to Libanus (YH here) turning west onto the A4215 and the unnamed road over Heol Senni to the A4067 and the ... 

Dan-yr-Ogof Image
Dan-yr-Ogof Showcaves, Powys
© showcaves.co.uk

..in the Fforest Fawr under the Carreg Goch. 

These caves close at 15.00 (see their website).  From here, the route would have been to Merthyr Tydfil over Abercraf


Castle Craig-y-Nos, Abercraf 
©  bedsearcher.co.uk

then A4221 to Glynneath (see Neath & Port Talbort) and A465 over Hirwaun (see Rhondda, Cynon, Taff). 
The plan was to visit the show caves via plan 3. above but delays had put this out of the question and route 2. was chosen
(Contd ~~~> 
S Wales, Merthyr Tydfil below)

SOUTH WALES

South Wales (with prior 1974 names): Pembrokeshire // Carmarthenshire // Bridgend, Caerphilly, Cardiff, Merthyr Tydfil, Neath, Port Talbot, Rhondda, Cynon, Taff, Vale of Glamorgan, Swansea Cnty (Glamorgan) // and Monmouthshire, Newport, Blaenau, Gwent, Torfaen (Monmouthshire)

Home . Back . On to Rhondda Cynon Taff

Neath, Port Talbot (Castell-nedd Port Talbot)  (Cty Borough)

Manx2.com trip - Too late for the showcaves 
The extended tour from Brecon via the Dan-yr-Ogof Showcaves in Powys (above), would then have taken me over Abercraf then A4221 to Glynneath (Neath Port Talbot) and A465 over Hirwaun (Rhondda, Cynon, Taff) to Merthyr Tydfil.

Home . Back . On to Merthyr Tydfil

Rhondda, Cynon, Taff (Rhondda Cynon Tâf)  (Cty Borough)

        
       Ty Newydd Hotel, Hirwaun
     © iknow-wales.co.uk

Manx2.com trip - Too late for the showcaves 
From the Dan-yr-Ogof Showcaves in Powys, the route would have been over Abercraf then A4221 to Glynneath (Neath Port Talbot) and A465 over Hirwaun (Rhondda, Cynon, Taff) to Merthyr Tydfil (below).

Home . Back . On to Caerphilly

Merthyr Tydfil  (Merthyr Tudful) (Cty Borough)

 
Cefn Cil-Sanws quarry and religious place
© ggat.org.uk

Cefn Cil-Sanws, Merthyr Tydfil - Unenclosed upland, minor agricultural industrial extractive landscape; disused rifle range; historic religious place name associations.  Today the area abounds in forgotten industrial neglect art and ugly mass housing estates.

Manx2.com trip Sept 2007  - Merthyr Tydfil coming from Brecon, Powys (Central Wales)

Delays had put a visit to Dan-yr-Ogof showcaves out of the question and route 2. (A470 direction Cardiff over/through the Brecon Beacons to Merthyr Tydfilwas chosen and which proved to be a worthwhile and rewarding journey passing through wild rugged scenery that reminded of Scotland and through lush forestry peculiar to South Wales.
The road from Merthyr Tidfil passed through a small portion of the (~~~> County Borough of Caerphilly, below)

Home . Back . On to Blenau Gwent

Caerphilly (Caerffili) (Cty Borough)


Caerphilly - one of the finest castles in Europe
©  bbc.co.uk D Bodgert

Manx2.com trip Sept 2007 - coming from Merthyr Tydfil. Just passing through

The County Borough of Caerphilly lies above Cardiff and Newport and the main town name is renowned for its Caerphilly Cheese and its castle.  This trip only passed through the northern part of the County Borough however and on through (~~~> Blenau Gwent, below).

Home . Back . On to Torfaen

Forwards

Blaenau Gwent (Cty Borough)

Brynmawr Market Square
©  bbc.co.uk
 
Manx2.com trip 2007 - coming from Caerphilly, and also just passing through

Coming from Merthyr Tydfil over some of Caerphilly, the road passes north of Tredegar and Ebbw Vale to Brynmawr (all Blenau Gwent which lies north of Torfaen and Newport) showing the southern side of the Brecon Beacons from their mining and "upper valleys" side.  Since the loss of this industry, the air appears to be cleaner and the industrial passed bcomes the attraction instead of the "turn-off" that it once was.  This trip only passed through Brynmawr and the northern part of the county borough however and on to 
(~~~> Monmouthshire, below).  See also note at ~~~>Torfean, below
 
 
Torfaen (Tor-faen) (Cty Borough)
 
Manx2.com trip Sept 2007 - Too late for a visit to the Big Pit
From Brynmawr, signs directed to the
Underground 
©  Big Pit Mining Museum nr Blaenavon (Torfean)

but this regretably closes at 16.00 and had to be missed...read on at ~~~> Monmouthshire, below
 
Home . Back . On to Forest of Dean (Glos)

 
Monmouthshire (Sir Fynwy)
 
A lovely area that changed from Wales to England and back.  The River Wye and Symonds Yat at the northern end of the Forest of Dean (Glos) stick in memory. 

Manx2.com trip - coming from Blenau Gwent
Coming from Brynmawr, the road from Gilwern to Abergavenny passes through lovely forested scenery which more than compensates for the current road building activity and speed restrictions. 
Abergavenny Castle
Abergavenny Castle (©  visitwyevalley.com)
Abergavenny (Y Fenni) itself is a lovely town steeped in history and a "must halt" stop.  I didn't get enough time to have a good look as it was already evening and still quite a way to the overnighting stop.

Returning to the A40, the road east passes north of Raglan whose castle lies north of (and is visible from) the fast road and onwards


Raglan medieval castle
 © llanegwad-carmarthen.co.uk

to Monmouth which is the market, administrative and touring centre for a large region.  A lovely destination and also a "must" for your trip. More another time about Monmouth and its castle.


Monmouth - Monmow Gate
©  bbc.co.uk

From Monmouth, to find the A4136 to Gloucester, one presumably has to head south towards Chepstow on the A466 first. 
Anyhow, I never found the A4136 to Gloucester road from Monmouth and continued on the A40 fast road to Goodrich (Herefordshire) where Symonds Yat (East) was indicated. 

Home . Back . On to Monmouthshire

 
THE FOREST OF DEAN (Glos) 
 
Manx2.com trip - coming from Monmouthshire
 
  RETURN TO GLOUCESTERSHIRE FROM WALES

The deep gorge of the River Wye is crossed by a small road from Goodrich via a small bridge which winds its way up and up a scenic single track road to Symonds Yat (East) with Symonds Yat Rock on the Herefordshire/Gloucestershire border and onwards to Berry Hill and English Bicknor (Glos)  and Dryslade Farm where excellent farmhouse accommodation awaits. 

 The second night was at Dryslade Farm, English Bicknor, Forest of Dean (close to Symonds Yat East and Symonds Rock) which is a tremendously well kept farm and is very nicely laid out for B&B guests.  
The prices are good for the quality obtained
(see Recommendations SW England). 
Enjoy the a farmstay and don't miss the local sights mentioned below.
(Highly Recommended)


Dryslade Farm, English Bicknor, Glos (© drysladefarm.co.uk )

Day 3 - 6 Sep 2007 -

On no account miss the view from Symonds Yat Rock (border but access from Glos) and keep you eyes open for the wild peregrine falcons

To the west (in Herefordshire) is King Arthur's Cave, the Harkening Rocks (in Wales) and the curious Wyastone Leys where the Monmouthshire border leaves the river and encloses part of the hamlet into Wales. 
Similarly, Wyesham, May Hill and Kymin on the Redding Inclosure east of the River Wye, lie in Monmouthshire and all a stones throw away from Gloucestershire.

After a hearty farmhouse breakfast next morning, it was southwards through the Forest of Dean to Clearwell Caves (at Clearwell nr Coleford) which are both historically, geologically and naturally fascinating.  This once mining facility is open to visitors for a modest entrance fee and should definitely be on the "must see" list.  Take a look at their website at www.clearwellcaves.com Even semi-deep level and deep level descents are available.


© Clearwell Caves

Whilst in the area, do pay a visit to Saint Briavels and Saint Briavels Castle. 


Saint Briavels Castle and Youth Hostel
(© Gari own photo)

The age-old castle is a Youth Hostel (requires months ahead pre-booking.  YHA membership, however, not essential)  The village boasts an interesting church and some fine old inns.

I descended from Saint Briavels (Glos) to Blockweir to cross the River Wye near

Home . Back . On to Newport

Manx2.com trip - coming from Gloucestershire

RETURN TO MONMOUTHSHIRE (Tintern, Usk)

Llandogo (Monmouthshire) to visit Tintern Parva and Abbey - a further "must see" in The Forest of Dean.  There is also a crossing point at Tintern.

Tintern Abbey, Wales           
Tintern Abbey Anglo-Norman 1131               Forest of Dean - R Wye
( © paradoxplace.com)                                   (©  relaxsouthwest.co.uk)

Now it was time for the B roads again and a very very small single track road leads uphill from the centre of Tintern Parva towards Llanishen or Llansoy.  It passes through DevaudenLlansoy and Gwernesney on its way to

Usk 
I am so very glad that I didn't miss Usk (Brynbuga) with its Roman Fort (Burrium), castle 

Usk Castle
Usk - Norman castle (© visitwyevalley.com)

and very interesting little Museum - definitely a must.

From Usk it was down the A449 to ..

NEWPORT (Casnewydd)  (City)
 
Manx2.com trip - coming from Monouthshire

..Newport and westwards one junction on the M4 motorway.  Caer Leon is indicated as an exit and well signposted from thereon. 
Caer Leon is a Roman baths and camp and close by there are the remains of an amphitheatre (free to view). 
 
Newport Castle   
Newport Castle -  almost squeezed out of existence                        Roman  Ampitheatre - Caer Leon
(© visitwyevalley.com)                                               (© Gari own photo)
 
Many believe Caer Leon to be the scene of King Arthur's Camelot  (caerleon.net/).  In 830 AD Nennius listed 'Cair Lion' as one of Britain's 33 cities.
 

Home . Back . Further Information/Recommendations

Manx2.com trip - coming from Newport

FINAL RETURN TO GLOUCESTERSHIRE (from Wales)

From the Roman remains at Usk and Newport and short of time, it was over the Bristol Channel back to Gloucestershire via Chepstow and the M48 Old Severn Bridge (less popular/crowded than the M4 new bridge).  There is no toll payable leaving Wales. 
   Picture of The Old Severn Bridge - Free Pictures - FreeFoto.com
Chepstow and Castle          Old Severn Bridge
(visitwyevalley.com)                     (freefoto.com)

Taking the M5 northwards as far as the Falfield exit #14 for Berkeley it was off to Berkeley Castle (one of the oldest inhabited castles in England) which is indeed a tourist attraction and is a grand castle with lovely gardens and which also has a Butterfly Farm.  Indeed well worth a visit.

   
Berkeley Castle and a magnificent Scottish Pine in the gardens
(© Gari own photos)

Also well worth a visit is Slimbridge Wildfowl Centre further up the A38 towards Gloucester. 

Should you have time to spare then travel via Stroud and then north to Painswick Rococco Gardens on the outskirts of Gloucester. Due to a deviation, I tried to find them following the adequate signage on and off the A38 via Gloucester but the signs petered out just short of the gardens and I never found them.  They are on the B4073 "Gloucester Rd" which branches NW near Painswick town centre and church.

 
Chafford Village nr Stroud              Painswick Rococco Gardens
visit-gloucestershire.co.uk 
)

Manx2.com trip Conclusion

In conclusion, a few words about Gloucester,  known as The Crossroads of England and the gateway to the West of England,  It is a cathedral city nestling in a wonderful Cotswold valley on the River Severn - the longest river in the UK.  The Severn Estuary is famed for its bore tides (severn-bore.co.uk) that can reach a height of 50ft and are second in the world only to the tides of the Bay of Funday in Canada.

Gloucester is surrounded by some of the most beautiful countryside that you could wish for with plenty of places to visit . There are many historical sites in the city and surrounds and lots of good pubs, hotels and restaurants.  This fruitful county is litterally riddled with castles and stately homes and manors and is not only to the east but also to the west of the River Severn where the wonderful Forest of Dean and the county boundry River Wye afford some spectacular "must see" scenery.

Gloucester man John Stafford Smith (1750-1836) was the composer of the Star Spangled Banner and this is why you will see the stars and stripes flying from Gloucester Cathedral.

The River Severn has been a very important highway for goods for over two thousand years. When the Romans established a fort at Gloucester, their decision is assumed to have been based not only as a defensive structure but as a means of supplying men and materials between the Midlands and Wales. Today the docks are used more for leisure than work.


Gloucester Docks
visit-gloucestershire.co.uk )

The Saxon and Medieval Quay was first sited to the north of Westgate St on the banks of the third branch of the river ( now vanished ) that joined the present east channel. The first record of this quay is 1390 and it was built following the silting up of the original channel in the thirteenth century.  Wool, cloth, corn and iron were shipped out of Gloucester during the medieval period.
In 1580 Queen Elizabeth granted Gloucester the status of a port and a custom house was opened in the following year.

Over the next two hundred years trade continued to grow. In 1780 over 600 ships were recorded as having berthed at Gloucester docks. Because the larger ships could only approach Gloucester on the highest spring tides a proposal was made to open a canal to Berkley. This would not only bypass the obstruction but would link with the Stroudwater and Thames Canals opening a direct route to the Midlands and London. An act of parliament was passed in 1793 and the canal started the following year
(gloucesterdocks.visit-gloucestershire.co.uk)

=========

Home . Back . Back to Travelreports 1

FURTHER INFORMATION/RECOMMENDATIONS

This ended the short trip with Manx2.com from the Isle of Man to Gloucester for the purpose of checking out the areas that can easily be visited.  Indeed a worthwhile and exciting few days covering Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, Oxfordshire, Worcestershire, Herefordshire, Powys, Merthyr Tydfil, upper Caerphilly, Blenau Gwent, Monmothshire and Newport.  There is a lot to see from the honey coloured straw thatched villages in the Costswolds to the wild and barren heights of the Brecon Beacons and the beautiful Forest of Dean and the River Wye. Pleasant was also the fact that Manx2 took off early on both flights.  This especially as members of my IsleofMan Yahoo group were complaining about delayed flights with another airline at the same time.

Favourite parts: 
All parts of Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire but especially the middle and north Cotswolds (I really enjoyed the part of the trip from Chipping Norton, Glos to Elmley Castle,Worcs). as well as Herefordshire, the wilds of Powys and the Forest of Dean.
Most rewarding was the long stay at Vowchurch, Herefs and beside the River Dore where one is induced to write poetry.  The ensuing exciting journey to Hay-on-Wye and the impressive and almost threatening Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons stand in sharp contrast to Herefordshire.  The B roads were especially rewarding and sights unfolded that to this day do not appear to have made it to the guide books - such as Broad Camden.

Less favourite parts:
The larger towns during rush hour
The main A-road arteries and tourist centres and the 'resortified' "beautiful villages" which have to be seen by all to the detriment of the calm and rewarding atmosphere that they all once emanated..  Surprisingly enough, the industry of the Welsh Valleys is now a thing of the past leaving lovely photogenic industrial waste scenes to milder the continuing sprawling and unsightly "housing estates in the sky".

TRANSPORTATION

Manx2 (manx2.com) who fly Beechcraft 1900D, Metroliner and LET410 between Isle of Man and Gloucester (and weekends on to Jersey).  They also connect the Isle of Man with Belfast City, Belfast International, Blackpool, Leeds/Bradford and Nottingham-East Midlands (EMA).

Timetables IOM-GLO-JER at end of this report below.

GLOUCESTERSHIRE AIRPORT   (GLO / EGBJ)      http://www.gloucestershireairport.co.uk/

Located just outside Cheltenham next to the M5 at Staverton.  Location map at Manx2.com and also at gloucestershireairport.co.uk/Directions.php .
 
The airport has a Pilot Shop (in case you lose a wing or need a GPS) and  is an excellent location for islanders interested in the following locations: 
- 10 mins drive to Cheltenham (racing) or Gloucester and only 27 mins to Worcester.
- 40 mins to  
Swindon or Bristol.  45 mins to Warwick or Shrewsbury. 
- 49 mins to Newport or Hereford
- 1 hr will bring you to Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon, Cardiff, or Leamington Spa. 
-
Reading is a 75 mins drive away.

Aviator Restaurant (WiFi enabled) just opposite the terminal at Gloucestershire Airport - The Aviator Restaurant offers superb views of the airfield, serving hot and cold food from 07:30 to 21:00 every day and is also licensed to sell alcoholic and soft beverages.

GLOUCESTERSHIRE TRANSPORT - BUSES
Bus  #94 goes somewhere near the airport (get off at Business Park Factory and walk)  see http://ww4.gloucestershire.gov.uk/Bustimes/times/094MF.HTML

Route Map is via http://www.gloucestershire.gov.uk/index.cfm?articleid=9179   hit 'Gloucestershire bus routes' on the upper right
[The map shows a bus #652 to the airport - Ignore as once a week only at 13.15]

TAXIS
The taxi service that took me from Gloucester to the airport was Five2One (01452) 521 521 and cost £15
Kestrel Taxis are located between Gloucester and Cheltenham and quoted £15 and £8-9 respectively.  (01452) 537404

CARHIRE
Only take carrental that pick-up and drop-off.  Mine picked me up but the £15 taxi to the airport went to my expense.

I checked with a multitude of companies (see http://travel.holidays.com/recommendations in the SW England section) and got the best deal from Thrifty USA.  Thrifty via the UK website would have cost £25 more so its worth trying the .com as well as the .co.uk.  They also didn't have staff to drop me off at the airport on return.  Otherwise, the new Ford Fiesta was agile for those narrow country lanes.

[DRIVING TIP:  If you want to avoid spending half a day filling out insurance claim forms and/or a police accident report, always drive the narrow lanes with dipped headlights and, if winding and only one-car wide, with flashing warning lights. The oncoming drivers will see you quicker.]


ACCOMMODATION
I stayed first night at the wonderful country mansion bed & breakfast Windy Ridge 5* Longborough (between Stow-on-the-Wold and Moreton-in-Marsh) which is shown and described above and at http://travel.holidays.com/recommendations#r-SWUK.  Highly recommended.

The second night was at Dryslade Farm, English Bicknor, Forest of Dean (close to Symonds Yat East and Symonds Rock) which is a tremendously well kept farm and very nicely laid out for B&B guests.  This is also described at the above link and also Highly Recommended

For those who need a decent hotel close to the airport, Macdonald-Hotels.co.uk - Hatherley Manor, Staverton, Cheltenham - 3mls from airport GLO on B4063,  should do the trick.  Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to drop in this visit but their website looks promising and the little contact that I had was pleasant and promising.

Out of season bed and breakfast accommodation would not appear to be a problem - especially if you are motorised. 

The Youth Hostels at YHA in England & Wales are also worth considering as no longer are there chores and these are no longer the domain of  "Youth" only.  Ask for a single or double/family room.  The biggest chore would be making your own bed and the biggest bore would be single or double rooms without en-suite.  Destinations such as Saint Briavels Castle require months ahead booking as they are very popular.

ATTRACTIONS - TOWNS, VILLAGES AND VIEWS

The splendid manor house between Moreton-in Marsh and Chipping Camden near Draycott and Blockley, was no doubt

Image of Northwick estate and house
Northwick Park Estate ( © cotswold.gov.uk)

home of the Spencer-Churchill family.   Northwick Park was and perhaps still is know by more Americans, Germans and Poles than British despite its ideal location.   327th Station Hospital was built there in 1943 as an American field hospital in anticipation of D-Day and was operational from December 1943.  On 1st June 1944 the camp became an American Red Cross Unit POW hospital under the control of the International Red Cross.  Many German POW's were treated there. However, the hospital closed in June 1945.    In 1947/8 Northwick Park camp was handed over by the War Department to the Ministry of Works and the Ministry of Health and became home to many displaced Polish families who lived there until the 1960's. Today the camp is a business centre.  (wartimememories.co.uk/hospitals/northwickpark.html).   Another site even concerns itself with this piece of Polish history at northwickparkpolishdpcamp.co.uk .  This, just one illustration of the places one comes across by frequenting the B-roads.   Apart from those mentioned in the report above (all of which are well worthwhile), here a few that "got away"

CASTLES, MANORS AND GARDENS

Sudeley Castle (http://www.sudeleycastle.co.uk ) nr. Winchcomb opens at 10am £7 sgl/£4 ch/£20 fam)
Snowshill Manor (NT) (£8 sgl/£4 ch/£20 fam)

           
Sudeley Castle                          Snowshill Manor
© visitcheltenham.gov.uk                         © armin-grewe.com

INFORMATION, MAPS, BROCHURES

A special thanks goes out to those counties which supplied excellent illustrative brochures and maps.  A special thanks to the Tourist Information Centres of  Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire and Herefordshire and also to the National Trust and local institutions which allowed us to reproduce their photos (as indicated).  Thanks also to Manx2.com who enabled this rewarding trip with their new service. 

Manx2.com Timetables

Flights
Isle of Man - Gloucester
(M5) (Since 03 Sep 2007)   Beech 1900D or Metroliner 
-IOM-GLO - Mon-Fri  07.45 / 08.40 & 17.30 / 18.25 . Sat 08.05 / 09.00.  Sun 15.00± / 15.55±,  14.00† / 14.55†
-GLO-IOM - Mon-Fri  09.00 / 09.55 & 18.55 / 19.50.  Sat 12.15 13.10 . Sun 19.15± / 20.10±, 17.55† / 18.50†

Gloucester (M5) - Jersey (Since 08th Sep 2007)  Beech 1900D or Metroliner
-GLO-JER -Sat  09.25 / 10.25. Sun  16.25± / 17.25± , 15.15† / 16.15†
-JER-GLO -Sat 10.50 / 11.50.   Sun  17.50± / 18.50±, 16.35† / 17.35†

Isle of Man - Jersey (Since 08 Sep 2007)  Beech 1900D or Metroliner
-IOM-JER  Sat 08.05 / 10.25.  Sun 15.00± / 17.25±, 14.00† / 16.15†
-JER-IOM Sat 10.50 / 13.10.   Sun 17.50± / 20.10±,  16.35† / 18.50†

± - Available from start date until 27/10    † - Avialable from 28/10/07 only 

The weekend IOM-JER flight stops down at GLO.  Initial rates should be in competition to Blue Islands who aren't exactly the Ryanair blue that would make them beautiful.  Manx2 offers GBP 98 return flights (incl taxes and fees) to GLO from IOM and IOM-JER return comes to GBP 274 incl.

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Disclaimer

This website is purely a non-commercial of data from proven reliable sources and does not contain any data not already publicly made known. No company is individually recommended in this website and no claim can be made for subsequent failure of whatever website you use to supply the goods and services you expect from them at the prices indicated or expected. Where recommendations are indicated (e.g. on /tips or in TravelReports) then they were recommendable at the time of the recommendation but no continuation of such good service can be relied upon. A mere mention or recommendation by the business owner or other third parties is to be regarded as passed on information and always subject to re-checking. Certain comments are passed on in good faith from third party sources and maintain no claim to original or continued accuracy.

Copyrights

All material on this site is copyrighted and may not be downloaded or reproduced without the owner's consent and then only with hyperlink (full clickable link) to the owner's website. No financial gains have been obtained from this site whose sole purpose is informative/recreational. If you own the copyright of any of the material/content on this site, this will be reflected and linked where known. Should it not have been possible to contact you or should you not have replied to copyright permission requests and should you object to its use here, please inform us and we will remove it at once. This does not apply to indirect copyrights (where you assigned the rights to others) where our source is duly credited. Even with express copyright permission, material on this site may only be used if full hyperlink/s (clickable URL credits) to this site AND clear indication of the source site which we, in turn have credited. You expose yourself to legal consequences if full cumulative source credits are not stated at all times.

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