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KENNEL COUGH IN DOGS 

 

Kennel Cough in dogs will stimulate a coarse, dry, hacking cough about three to seven days after the dog is initially infected. It sounds as if the dog needs to "clear it's throat" and the cough will be triggered by any extra activity or exercise. Many dogs that acquire Kennel Cough will cough every few minutes, all day long. Their general state of health and alertness will be unaffected.  They usually have no rise in temperature, and do not lose their appetite. The signs of Canine Cough usually will last from 7 to 21 days and can be very annoying for the dog and the dog's owners. Life threatening cases of Kennel Cough are extremely rare and a vast majority of dogs that acquire the infection will recover on their own with no medication.  Cough suppressants and occasionally antibiotics are the usual treatment selections.

WHAT IS KENNEL COUGH?
Actually, clinical cases of Kennel Cough are usually caused by several infectious agents working together to damage and irritate the lining of the dog's trachea and upper bronchii. The damage to the tracheal lining is fairly superficial, but exposes nerve endings that become irritated simply by the passage of air over the damaged tracheal lining.  Once the organisms are eliminated the tracheal lining will heal rapidly. The most common organisms associated with Canine Cough are the bacteria called Bordetella bronchiseptica and two viruses called Parainfluenza virus and Adenovirus and even an organism called Mycoplasma

HOW IS IT TRANSMITTED?
The causative organisms can be present in the expired air of an infected dog, much the same way that human "colds" are transmitted. The airborne organisms will be carried in the air in microscopically tiny water vapour or dust particles. The airborne organisms, if inhaled by a susceptible dog, can attach to the lining of the trachea and upper airway passages, find a warm, moist surface on which to reside and replicate, and eventually damage the cells they infect.

The respiratory system is also your dog's main air-conditioning system.  Cooling occurs via evaporation as air passes over the saliva-laden mucous membranes of the tongue and throat.  As things heat up, your dog's tongue hangs out to allow further evaporation.  For maximum cooling, your dog broadens the tip of its tongue to increase the surface area available for evaporation.  Despite this cooling mechanism, dogs can easily overheat and it can be fatal.  Here's what you should know about heatstroke.

PREVENTION

1. Never leave your dog in a closed car on a sunny day or when the temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degreesCelsius)
2. Stop exercising your dog when the tip of its tongue widens during exercise.
3. When your dog is outside in warm weather, provide constant access to shade.
4. Keep your dog in a well ventilated indoor space when it's oppressively hot and humid outdoors.

SIGNS

1. Early: heavy panting, bright red gums, and body temperature above 105 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius)
2. Late: stupor, pale gums, vomiting and diarrhoea
3. Termina: coma, no breathing.

TREATMENT

1. Move the dog to a cool ventilated area
2. Administer rescue breathing and chest compressions if the dog is not breathing
3. Soak the dog in cool (not cold) water until its rectal temperature drop to 103 degrees Fahrenheit (39.4 degrees Celsius)
4. Transport the dog immediately to a veterinary surgeon.

Finally, know your dog's normal respiratory rate so that you can tell if something is amiss.  Always visit a vet if your dog seems NOT to be breathing easily.

Dog Heatstroke Survival Guide
Know how to treat and prevent this dangerous condition.
Robert Newman

What is heatstroke?
In simple terms, heatstroke occurs when a dog loses its natural ability to regulate its body temperature. Dogs don’t sweat all over their bodies the way humans do. Canine body temperature is primarily regulated through respiration (i.e., panting). If a dog’s respiratory tract cannot evacuate heat quickly enough, heatstroke can occur.

To know whether or not your dog is suffering from heatstroke (as opposed to merely heat exposure), it’s important to know the signs of heatstroke.

A dog’s normal resting temperature is about 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Once a dog’s temperature rises above 105 degrees, physiological changes start to take place, and the dog begins to experience the effects of heatstroke. At 106 to 108 degrees, the dog begins to suffer irreversible damage to the kidneys, liver, gastrointestinal tract, heart and brain.

If a dog is experiencing heatstroke, you may observe excessive panting; hyperventilation; increased salivation; dry gums that become pale, grayish and tacky; rapid or erratic pulse; weakness; confusion; inattention; vomiting; diarrhea; and possible rectal bleeding. If the dog continues to overheat, breathing efforts become slowed or absent, and finally, seizures or coma can occur.
The amount of damage a dog sustains when stricken with heatstroke depends on the magnitude and duration of the exposure. The longer and more severe the exposure, the worse the damage will be.

What to do
1 Pay attention to your dog. Recognizing the symptoms of heatstroke and responding quickly is essential for the best possible outcome.

2 Get into the shade. If you think your dog is suffering from heatstroke, move it into a shaded area and out of direct sunlight. Apply cool water to the inner thighs and stomach of the dog, where there’s a higher concentration of relatively superficial, large blood vessels. Apply cool water to the foot pads, as well.

3 Use running water. A faucet or hose is the best way to wet down your dog’s body. Never submerge your dog in water, such as in a pool or tub – this could cool the dog too rapidly, leading to further complications, including cardiac arrest and bloating.

4 Use cool – not cold – water. Many people make the mistake of using cold water or ice to cool the dog. When faced with a dog suffering from heatstroke, remember that the goal is to cool the dog. Using ice or extremely cold water is actually counterproductive to this process because ice and cold water cause the blood vessels to constrict, which slows blood flow, thus slowing the cooling process.

5 Don’t cover the dog. One of the keys to successfully cooling your dog is ensuring the water being placed on the dog can evaporate. Never cover an overheated dog with a wet towel or blanket. This inhibits evaporation and creates a sauna effect around your dog’s body. Likewise, don’t wet the dog down and put it into an enclosed area, such as a kennel. Any air flow during the cooling process is helpful in reducing the dog’s body temperature. Sitting with the wet dog in a running car with the air conditioner blowing is an ideal cooling situation.

6 Keep the dog moving. It’s important to try to encourage your dog to stand or walk slowly as it cools down. This is because the circulating blood tends to pool in certain areas if the dog is lying down, thus preventing the cooled blood from circulating back to the core.

7 Allow the dog to drink small amounts of water. Cooling the dog is the first priority. Hydration is the next. Don’t allow the dog to gulp water. Instead, offer small amounts of water that’s cool, but not cold. If the dog drinks too much water too rapidly, it could lead to vomiting or bloat.

8 Avoid giving human performance drinks. Performance beverages designed for humans are not recommended because they are not formulated with the canine’s physiology in mind. If you can’t get an overheated dog to drink water, try offering chicken- or beef-based broths.

See a veterinarian
Once your dog’s temperature begins to drop, cease the cooling efforts and bring the dog to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Your dog’s temperature should be allowed to slowly return to normal once cooling has begun. A dog that’s cooled too quickly may become hypothermic.

Even if your dog appears to be fully recovered, the veterinarian needs to check to determine if the heatstroke caused any damage to your dog’s kidneys and liver. The effects of heatstroke can continue for 48 to 72 hours longer, even if your dog appears normal.

William Grant, DVM, a veterinarian for 20 years and former president of the Southern California Veterinary Medical Association, has treated hundreds of cases of heatstroke, ranging from mild to fatal.

According to Grant, the most common cause of death following heatstroke is disseminated intravascular coagulopathy (blood coagulating throughout the body), or DIC, which can occur hours or days after the heatstroke episode.

DIC can also be caused by pyometra or septicemia, but Grant says heatstroke is the most common cause. “Once a dog develops DIC, it may bleed in the thorax, abdomen, nose and intestine,” Grant says. “Once the blood-clotting factors are consumed, there is an inability of the blood vessels to prevent leaking; the condition is almost always fatal.” For this reason, follow-up veterinary care is essential following a heatstroke episode, even if your dog seems to be completely fine.

Prevention is the best medicine
The best treatment for heatstroke is prevention. Especially during the summer months, it’s essential to be aware of the potential for heatstroke. Knowing the signs of heatstroke, and taking the necessary steps to prevent it, will ensure your dog can have a safe and active life year-round.

 

 

Tools

Any animal in pain, even your dog, may snap at you or try to bite as you clean a scrape or close a wound. The first thing you should do is muzzle her. You can purchase a muzzle, or take strips of pantyhose or other material to tie around her snout.

Learn Dog Handling techniques to help you muzzle and restrain your dog.

Other necessary tools for your dog first aid supplies include the following.

• Needle and thread, or a skin stapler
• Razor blade (paper wrapped for protection)
• Small blunt end scissors
• Tweezers
• Hemostat forceps
• Rectal thermometer made specifically for dogs
• Tongue depressors or ice cream sticks (can also be used as splints)
• Oral syringe (3 cc) for administering liquid oral medicines, or for getting an ear drying solution into your dog's ears
• Eye dropper (instead of the syringe)
• Oral syringe (10 cc) for cleaning and flushing wounds
• Safety pins in several sizes
• Small empty containers for pain pills and medications
• Rubber gloves
• Instant ice compress
• Tourniquet
• Splints
• Washcloth
• Nail trimmers

Supplies for External Use

Your dog is likely to suffer from far more external injuries than internal injuries or illnesses. These can range from scrapes and scratches, to bites and stings, to open wounds and punctures.

These dog first aid supplies will help you clean and stabilize any wound, small or large.

• Sterile non-stick pads (2" x 4")
• Cotton gauze pads
• Cotton gauze wrap (1.5" width and/or 3" width)
• VetWrap™ (2" width and/or 4" width)
• Ace bandage (self adhering)
• Regular Band-Aids
• New Skin liquid bandage or "Mole Skin" (to quickly repair splits in pads)
• First aid tape or 1" vet tape
• Cotton balls and swabs
• Small bottle of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
• Alcohol or antiseptic wipes (the ones that come in small individual packets)
• Bottle (at least 8 ounces/225 ml) of 3% hydrogen peroxide (for cleaning wounds and to induce vomiting when necessary)
• Iodine wash
• eye wash/sterile solution
• Antibiotic ointment (Neosporin, Bacitracin, Betadine or generic)
• Ophthalmic (eye) antibiotic ointment
• Small jar of Vaseline

If you live in, or plan to visit, tick country, add one or two small plastic bottles with tight seals to your dog first aid supplies. Before you go, label them "Ticks" and partially fill them with rubbing alcohol.