Parrots

   This site is deticated to parrots of all types, whether wild or domestic, so to say.

On this site I will talk about my parrots and their habbits, as well as, care for these birds.

Still under construction!! ;)

   I currently own 7 parrots, they include: 2 Budgies, 3 Cockatiels, 1 Dusky-Headed Conure, and a Meyers Parrot.

    This is a general bird care and facts sheet.

*I am not a vet or claim to be. What is featured on this site is from my experiences and the experiences of others.*

    First, every bird is different and may require specific care. If your bird if sick or you suspect it to be sick seek out a qualified avian veterinarian soon!

Diet:

Every bird should be offered fresh foods daily, along with a pelleted suplement and for some species seeds, in moderation, are accepted as well. Diets are dependent on the species and what it naturally eats in the wild. Commercial diets are not perfect in meeting the complete needs of parrots either. The diet of the individual species I own are on their care pages. I believe that either a cuttlebone or a mineral block/perch, or both should be provided in the cage of most pet parrots. Cuttlebones come from the cuttlefish and are almost 100% calcium, birds require calicum for feather forming, egg producing, and healthy bones. A mineral block does much the same except it has other key minerals that are benefical to the bird.

Cage Requirements:

Buy the largest cage you can afford that will fit your bird appropriatly. Be sure to know maximum bar spacing, and if you do not it is the maximum spacing the bird can safely live in and not fit his head through.

Stay away from cages with a lot of scroll work or wiring, as the birds can get their feet caught. Rusty cages are bad because the bird will ingest the rust and can die from heavey metal poising. Cages with a lot of plastic that is flimsy enough the bird may be able to chew off and ingest. There are certian cages made out of strong plexi-glass that are acceptable but not always practical. Also, buy a cage that is strong enough to withstand the beak of your bird. Some macaws have been known to rip bars (that were once welded to the frame) off of cheaper models of cages.

Excersize and Good Mental Health:

All parrots require time out of the cage during the day, and they need some sort of mental stimulation. Routines tend to work well with the larger parrots that may have a greater tendancy to feather shear or pluck.

Toys are an absolute must!!! Toys, like with small children, provide them with something to do. Always put toys in even if you do not see them playing with them, it maybe that the bird simply chooses not to play while you are there, and you are giving him the option to play. Toys should be rotated every week!

Playstands are wonderful to have around, they provide another place in the home in which you can enjoy the birds company and you can usually take the bird with you room to room as you need, which is usually more enjoyable on both sides. Imagine how bored you'd be if you were stuck in a small cage all day with nothing to do but sit on a perch and eat? A bird with nothing to do will often take it out on himself by picking or mutilating.

Perches, provide a variety of perches with many different shapes and sizes.

Noise:

All parrots make noise, like us, that is their main form of communication. Parrots will scream or yell when they are excited, happy, bored, or angry. There are a couple of times during the day when you can expect them to be loud, that is: Morning, Noon, and Night, or during times of excitement. If a bird is developing a screaming habbit, you must check the surroundings for changes or things that may scare the bird. It can be anything from other animals, colors, new furniture, routine change, illness, etc.

General Maintnence for Parrots:

Wing trims. If you cannot provide a safe enviroment for the bird and be able to maintain this for the birds safety, I would reccommend wing trimming. If you have never done it before seek out and avian vet to show you how, or they can just do it. Wing trimms are harmless and only cut the primary flight feathers. It is as simple for them as getting a hair cut, however, you need to be aware of any bloodfeathers.

Molting. All birds molt about every six months. A molt is when a bird begins a cycle of loosing its feathers and growing in new ones. Not all feathers are lost at once, this is a gradual process in which can take a few weeks.

A new feather comes up wrapped in a keratin sheath with a blood supply. As it grows and the feather reaches completion the blood supply will retreat and the sheath can be removed. These new feathers are known as bloodfeathers because of the blood supply in the feather.  

Nails and beak: Their nails and beaks are much like ours and need to be trimmed. Nails should allow the foot to sit on a flat surface and not raise the toe. There is a quick in the nail that is painful when cut and will bleed. The beak is much the same except that you shouldn't need to trim it, and if you think it needs to be trimmed take the bird to an avian vet who will know how to properly trim the beak. Provide many chewing opportunities for the bird as that is the primary way of wearing the beak down. Beaks and nails are constanly growing.

Baths: They are best offered everyday or once a week at least. You can offer a shallow bowl of water, or try misting. It may take a few times but the bird will eventually learn to love them! Never ever submerge the bird in water as you will easily drowned them.

Cleaning: Good hygene is good for everyone! Changing bedding, wiping down cages, and floor/wall cleaning is a must at least once a week. For bedding I use newspaper and it is very easy to change and replace. Toys, perches, and food dishes should be cleaned weekly as well. Be aware, parrots are very messy animals, and love to throw everything!!