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From
the outside, the yellow sandstone and white marble mogul style temple
is not much different from other temples in India. What is different
are the temple's inhabitants. The town of Deshnoke, 30 kilometers
south of Bikaner, is home to world's only temple where rats are
the main creature of devotion. About 20,000 rats are fed, protected
and worshiped. The Karni Mata temple is one of the more curious
places in all of Rajasthan. The site has been a place of worship
for the last 500 years and the current Karni Mata temple was founded
by the Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner at the turn of the century.
Before visiting the temple, many people
envision scenes resembling those of the "Raiders of the Lost
Arc." The reality is a little more tame, in the daytime at
least. "They seemed sickly and apathetic... I was prepared
to see big aggressive rats , instead I saw rats that are no bigger
than mice," said an Australian tourist about his experience
of the Karni Mata temple. The temple rats are brown, size of a western
laboratory mouse and quite used to interacting with people. As most
tourist come to the temple during middle of the day, they find only
part of the rat metropolis. This is a time of rest for most rats,
who hide in the closed rooms and underground tunnels. The rats that
do stay outside are most often the sick, wounded or dying. Many
of them have scars testifying their coming demise: bitten off, broken
tails, bleeding bite marks, falling out hair. To see the temple
rats in their full splendor one has to come late at night or before
sunrise. Then the temple floor is covered with rats running at full
speed in all directions. The hungry creatures are trying to get
feed for the rest of the day.
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