The *777* Edition Wits' End Training Method Manual
The *777* Edition Of Your Own
FREE COPY Of
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
100% CONSISTENTLY
NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL
FREE WWW
Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual <{) ; ~ ) >
Dedicated to The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
ANTAGONISTS
on Google / Usenet Dog & Kat News Groups rec.pets.cats.health+behav, rec.pets.dogs.behavior, alt.med. veterinary, rec.pets.dogs.health, rec.pets.dogs.breeds, rec.pets. dogs.rescue, rec.pets.dogs.misc, alt.animals.dog, alt. pets.dogs. labrador, alt.pets.dogs.pitbull, who's dilligent efforts to CRUCIFY HIM, have made HIM the WIZEST trainer in the WHOWEL WILD WORLD,
BAR NONE <{)': - ) >
THANK YOU, FellHOWE DOG LOVERS!
It'll help to study your own FREE COPY of
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL
FREE WWW
Wits' End Training Method Manual
using a text to speech reader, as such, employing
"multiple modalities"
of learning techniques.
There's a free one at http://www.UltraHal.Com.
HOWEDY People,
I'm Jerry Howe,
The Sincerely Incredibly Freakin Insanely Simply
A-M-A-Z-I-N-G
G-R-A-N-D
Puppy, Child, Pussy, Birdy, Goat, Ferret, Monkey,
SpHOWES And Horsey Wizard <{}'; - ) >
In my forty sumpthin years of
SPECIALIZING
in temperament and behavior problems
and
protection training
of mostly giant breed working dogs
I've had the unique pleasure of
IDENTIFYING EXPOSING and DISCREDITING
NEARLY EVERY
professional self professed trainer,
university trained veterinary behaviorists, ethologists,
even human psychiatrists, psychologists
and university professors of
Master's Degree Programs
of BEHAVIORISM and ethology,
in the business:
Punishment ALWAYS Deranges Behavior.
"NO!"
Does NOT Have Any Behavioral Function
EXCEPT
To DERANGE Behaviors.
Here's professor marshall
"SCRUFF SHAKE
and SCREAM NO!
into ITS face for five seconds
and lock IT in a box for ten minutes contemplation,"
dermer, of the
Department of Behavior ANAL-ysis
at UofWI, pryor:
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
Date: 2001-07-12
And how do we know this aspect of his advice is right?
Jerry is not God
and his manual is not the Bible.
His advice could be subject to an empirical analysis.
(Also, it is best to killfile posts
from the few regulars here
who are either ill-tempered,
ill-mannered,
or just plain ill.),
--Marshall
Subject: Subject changed: JUMPING / MOUTHING On PEOPLE
(Ninnyboy)
26 From: Marshall Dermer -
Date: Tues, Aug 14 2001
Email: der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu (Marshall Dermer)
In article <2e501ccd.0108141341.7f18d...@posting.google.com>
mattburns...@yahoo.com (Matthew Burnside) writes:
Dear Matt:
Many have offered Jerry constructive advice
but Jerry has failed to profit from it.
My sincere advice is to filter out Jerry's posts.
--Marshall
PS: I have put "Ninnyboy" in the header
for many of us filter posts with this term.
The term indicates that the post is about Jerry.
I have read rpdb for about five years.
Consequently, I urge newbies to attend to the
civil and rational posts
of the rpdb regulars from whom I have learned much.
They include:
Ann (,Twzl, Sligo & Roy), Amy Dahl,
Diane Blackman, jdoee, Janet Boss, Susan Fraser,
Avrama Gingold, Nancy Holmes, Lynn Kosmakos,
Bob Maida, MaryBeth, Ruth Mays, Cindy Tittle Moore,
Robin Nuttall, Denna Pace, John Richardson,
Sarah Sionnach, Ludwig Smith,
Jane Webb, and Terri Willis.
*(EVERY WON of them got
VERY LONG
POSTED CASE HISTORIES
Of
ACCUTE CHRONIC INCURABLE MENTAL ILLNESS
an HURTIN INTIMIDATIN an MURDERIN
INNOCENT DEFENSELESS DUMB CRITTERS
an LYIN AbHOWET IT.)
Marshall Lev Dermer/Associate Professor/Behavior
Analysis Specialty/Department of Psychology/University
of Wisconsin--Milwaukee/Milwaukee, WI 53201
Office Phone: 414-229-6067/ Home Phone: 414-332-8606
der...@uwm.edu http://www.uwm.edu/~dermer
"If I am not for myself, who will be for me.
But if I am only for myself, what am I?"
_The Talmud_
------------------------------
YOU'RE FRAUDS, drs. p. and dermer!
Either DEFEND your
LIES, ABUSE,
And Degrees,
or get the heel
HOWETA THIS BUSINESS.
From: der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu (Marshall Dermer)
Date: 15 May 2002
Subject: Re: Jerry Howe
In article <SsyE8.20247$t8_.<12...@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com>
"Marisa" <mari...@hotmail.com> writes:
> So I downloaded your Wits End today, and I have
> started reading, and I am planning on using it from
> now on see what results I get.
Marisa you have much hard reading ahead of you
because Jerry's manual is verbose
and spends about as many lines condeming other approaches
as describing what to do.
> Just thought I'd share. I'll post an update
> later on as I have trained with it a bit. I
> hope it helps to make her even better
> than before. I don't want any accidents
> with biting in my house!
> And I hate negitive training, and bribes.
Different events function as rewards for different dogs.
Some dogs seek praise,
some seek petting,
and some seek food.
If you are lucky
your dog will value all three,
but don't count on it.
I doubt any major publishing house
would distribute Jerry's manual
because it is so verbose,
so here you find Jerry giving it away.
There is some wisdom in his manual
but IMHO
there is even more wisdom
in clicker training approaches
which are positive and
though they use food,
food need not always be
presented.
My favorite video, so far, is Karen Pryor's
_Clicker Magic_.
*(karen MURDERED her own DEAD KAT
On AccHOWENTA she COULDN'T
CLICKER TRAIN IT not to shit an piss
in her stovetop)
Perhaps you can view it through your public library.
*(You think karen got a video of herself
MURDERIN
her own DEAD KAT she
COULDN'T TRAIN?)
The major pet supply retailers sell clickers for
about $2.
*(INDEED? You can get empty soda cans
FOR FREE
an put a couple pebbles
in it for NUTHIN.)
Also, try a keyword search with "clicker training" at
www.google.com
as well as "Jerry Howe" or the name of his method.
Then ask yourself this question:
Why is there so much interest in "clicker training"
and so little interest in Jerry's method?
--Marshall
PS: Finally, note Jerry's incivil responses to this
post. BTW, I don't read Jerry's follow-ups.
Marshall Lev Dermer/Associate Professor/Behavior
Analysis Specialty/Department of Psychology/University
of Wisconsin--Milwaukee/Milwaukee, WI 53201
Office Phone: 414-229-6067/ Home Phone: 414-332-8606
der...@uwm.edu http://www.uwm.edu/~dermer
"I basically (and finally) applied my favourite design principle
that perfect is the enemy
of good.
Nothing is perfect, but many things are good." Sitaram Iyer http://www.cs.rice.edu/~ssiyer/
------------------------------
Prepare To MEET THE DEVIL, professor:
From: "Marisa" <mari...@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002
Subject: one day
I started some of the simple techniques in
Jerrys manual today.
The family pack exercise.... come command.....
that's all so far though.
I did get the proper equipment as well.
20 foot leash, cans with pennies partially crushed,
flat collar, etc.
I have also stopped any negative reinforcment
such as
loud "No" and "Bad girl Sonique!"
(Sonique is my Jack russell)
and holding her back, which I normally
MUST do
or she'll jump and nip sometimes,
but always jumping and barking.
Already tonight some has started working.
When someone came to the door,
Sonique went nuts as usual.
I said "Thank you Sonique!"
"It's o.k. girl, thank you!"
And we got a total of about 6 barks and then
no jumping on guests,
no biting, growling
or the worst,
the continued barking she normally does.
She accepted my praise,
and trooted around, still excited over guests,
but she was WAY more under control.
Even my roomates noticed this.
She repeated this same thing
without all her normal fuss later
when another two friends came over.
So I do need more time, going to keep with it
another day,
another month whatever
until I know I am getting results,
although I must say,
so far I am impressed with my dog.
She really responds to praise better than
she ever has responded
to treats as distraction
from the guests and doorbell,
or me yelling "bad girl! go away now! shoosh up!"
all the time.
I am also verbally praising her
everytime she makes eye contact with me.
so hopefully things will continue going well!-
- Marisa
From: "0513chgo" <0513c...@nixspam.net>
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002
Subject: Re: Jerry Howe
Marshall Dermer wrote in message ... >I
n article <SsyE8.20247$t8_.12...@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com>
> "Marisa" <mari...@hotmail.com> writes:
>> So I downloaded your Wits End today,
>> and I have started reading, and I am
>> planning on using it from now on and
>> see what results I get.
> Marisa you have much hard reading
> ahead of you because Jerry's manual
> is verbose and spends about as many
> lines condeming other approaches as
> describing what to do.
Please leave Marisa be and let her be happy
with training her dog the way she wants to!
From: "Jerry Howe" <jho...@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Jerry Howe
He CAN'T.
He's fighting for his career and reputation...
he's F'd.
Jerry.
Subject: "Science and Dog Training,"
Mark Plonsky, Ph.D., JERRYIZED
HOWEDY dr. p,
"Dr. P" <mplonsky@charter.net> wrote in message news:c972edd3.0404171413.2c9dbccb@posting.google.com...
> "The Puppy Wizard" ThePuppyWiz...@earthlink.net wrote in message <news:z1Ifc.10477$zj3.8064@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net>...
HOWEDY People,
Here's dr p of UofWI, professor SCRUFF SHAKE dermer's partner
gettin JERRYIZED <{}'; - ) >
>> Science and Dog Training by Mark
>> Plonsky, Ph.D. Copyright © 1998
>> (originally appeared in the Malinois
>> Handler)
> Sir, I would reply to your comments,
But you got a frog in your throat? Mabe you got a slight SPELLIN problem, professor? You come to the right place doc. The Amazin Puppy Wizard is pertty good abHOWET SPELLIN an critters, reptiles, to boot.
NO PROLEMO!
> but you are so far out in left field
Well, if you're refering to The Puppy Wizard's recommendations for the coqui tree frog eradication project in Puerto Rico or HIS divine sea turtle recipes, you may have a point <{}: ~ ( >
> that it would be pointless.
Right. Lucky thing we're talkin behavior SCIENCE.
> You must be an unhappy individual
INDEEDY, professor.
The Amazing Puppy Wizard is VERY unhappy
that HOWER universities are teachin children
HOWE to HURT and INTIMIMDATE their dogs
and try to get HOWET callin that, trainin.
> spewing forth nonsense
CITES please?
> and bad mouthing people
They kinda go hand in hand with DISCREDITING you.
> on the forums for hours each day.
Let's discuss scientific dog trainin professor.
> I urge you to consider visiting a therapist.
INDEED. Let's DISS-CUSS your methods with a therapist.
> All the best,
The Amazing Puppy Wizard would
NEVER
resort to ad hominum attacks
till HIS prey is THOWERLY discredited
based on their work:
> Dr. P Dog Training Site -
> http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog
HOWEDY People,
Here's dr p of UofWI, professor marshall
"SCRUFF SHAKE" dermer's
partner dr. mark plonsky gettin
JERRYIZED:
> Science and Dog Training by Mark
> Plonsky, Ph.D. Copyright © 1998
> (originally appeared in the Malinois
> Handler)
> In this article, the relevance of science
> to an understanding of dog training
> and behavior will be briefly outlined.
>
> Note that I view dog training as an
> art rather than a science.
Well that's QUEER, AIN'T IT, DOCTOR,
bein as you're supposed to be a SCIENTIST. 
That's CONtraWIZE to The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
STATEMENT
that dog trainin is a PRECISE science.
THAT'S HOWE COME The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual Students
REPORT 100% CONSISTENT NEARLY INSTANT SUCCESS.
> However, just as the artist must
> learn the mechanics of mixing
> paints,
You want to MIX non physical,
non force, non violent, non punishing,
non bribery, non avoidance methods
with pain fear force intimdiation
bribery crating avoidance and
surgical sexual mutilation to suit the
INDIVIDUAL'S NEEDS
FOR YOUR
INSANITY And ABUSE?
> I believe the dog trainer would
> be wise to learn what science
> has to say about dog behavior.
You mean, when they're not GUESSIN?
> Science studies phenomena (events in the world) using
> specific and agreed upon methods. There are many branches
> of science. Two that are particularly relevant to an understanding
> of dog behavior are biology (the study of life) and psychology
> (the study of behavio and mental processes in humans and other
> animals).
Ain't ANIMAL STUDIES often the
BASIS
for HUMAN theraputic models?
Well professor, do you believe in LUCK? 
PRAYER?
Better start PRAYIN for LUCK, professor,
cause The Amazing Puppy Wizard is abHOWET
to DISCREDIT YOU.
AGAIN.
<SNIP>
Coprophagia, counter surfing, raiding garbage, stealing chewing and swallowing illicit items etc. are CAUSED BY MISHANDLING during housebreaking and house training by AVOIDING TRAINING OPPORTUNITIES, by "puppy proofing" SCRUFF SHAKING, spraying aversives in their faces and lockin puppys in boxes with no food water or toilet area and ignoring their cries.
LIKE THIS:
From: der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu (Marshall Dermer) -
Date: 1998/08/28
Subject: Re: Puppy growls and snaps
In article <6s6ea0$8c...@uwm.edu> der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu
(Marshall Dermer) writes: In article <35E60819.65178...@pilot.msu.edu> > >tami sutherland <suthe...@pilot.msu.edu> writes:
>> However, there have been incidences
>> where she has growled and snapped
>> at us...for instance, when we were
>> trying to dry her off after bathtime.
> When your three-month old pooch
> growls or snaps, IMMEDIATELY
> pick her up ONLY by the skin at
> the back of her neck, for 5 sec,
>and loudly say, "NO!" Alternatively
> say "NO!" and hold her mouth
> shut for say 15 sec.
> If she so snaps that you can't do
> the above then you will have to
> find another way to administer
> a prompt correction, for example,
> throwing a can filled with pennies,
> or a tug on the collar. -- Marshall
"Oops! I would start by only holding her mouth shut for say 5 sec.
At this point, "No" does not have any
behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"
pick up the puppy by its neck
and shake it a bit,
and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.
First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established
"No"
as a conditioned punisher.
How much neck pulling and shaking?
Just the minimum necessary
to decrease the unwanted biting.
***IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?***
When our dog was a puppy,
"No"
came before mild forms of punishment
(I would hold my dog's mouth closed for a few seconds.)
whereas "Bad Dog" came before stronger punishement
(the kind discussed above).
"No"
is usually sufficient but sometimes
I use "Bad Dog" to stop a behavior.
"Bad Dog" ALWAYS works,"
marshall dermer,
research professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM
at UofWI.
For MOORE animal abuse, please visit dr p.
BWAHAHAHHAHAAAA!!!!!
That's INSANE. Ain't it.
Marshall Dermer wrote:
> In article <IDnj3.14478$y92.8...@news.rdc1.ct.home.com
> "Suzee" <suz...@home.com> writes:
> Hi,
> I need help with a problem I am having
> with my 9 month old Maltese. She is
> crated and in the morning when I let
> her out side she urinates, but then
> does nothing else. I let her in the
> house and she is fine till later I see
> her poops in the corner of my
> living room.
> She loves to poop in the house.
> I have tried re crating her when she
> comes back in, waiting a while and
> taking her back out. She sniffs
> everywhere but doesn't do anything.
> I really praise her when she goes
> outside and after urinating she
> seems to look at me for approval.
> any advise would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Suez... aka Shayna's mom
Reinforcing a dog for eliminating outdoors is surely
the "way to go,"
but how do you know that praise is an effective reward???
Why not try this. Find something that your dog
REALLY likes
(our Havanese goes crazy over popcorn!),
and when Shayna (A cute Yiddish name for a pooch.)
eliminates
immediately say "good girl" and offer her the reward.
In this way you will be using a strong reward
to consequate her eliminating outdoors
and you will be establishing "good girl"
as a conditioned reinforcer.
If I caught my dog IN THE ACT of eliminating indoors,
I would say "bad dog" and give him a stern lecture
as I took him outdoors
where I would praise him even if he did not poop.
If he eliminated indoors and I did not see it,
I would say "bad trainer"
and give myself a stern lecture
for not watching my dog more closely.
Best wishes,
Marshall
---------------------------
THAT'S HOWE IT'S DONE, SEE?
----------------------
P.S. Contacting Dr. P:
Please note that due to the large number of requests
I receive,
I can no longer give free, personal advice
on problems related to dog training and behavior.
In order for me to give such advice
we would have to "talk" about the problem
at length.
That is, I would need detailed information about
the dog, it's environment and routine,
the problem, and the situation
in which the problem occurs.
Thus, this type of consultation takes time
which I cannot afford to give away for free.
If you wish such advice,
please see the information I have provided
about my K9 Behavioral Consulting practice.
Another alternative to obtaining personal advice
is to participate in e-mail, chat room, & newsgroup discussions.
P.P.S. BWEEEEEEEAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!
YOU'RE FRAUDS, drs. p. and dermer!
Either DEFEND your LIES, ABUSE And
Degrees or get the heel HOWETA THIS
BUSINESS.
From: Marshall Dermer
Date: Tues, Dec 21 1999
Email: der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu
(Marshall Dermer)
In article <tfR74.1$W64....@typhoon3.tampabay.rr.com
> "Jerry Howe" <j...@cfl.rr.com> writes:
> Lemme aks you sumthin, doc?
> When you punish your dog,
> do you find that he masturbates
> more frequently after such
> instances? (referring to your
> post about your dog using a
> pillow to "comfort" hisself)
First, I punish behavior, not dogs.
Second, I rarely issue corrections.
Third, as time goes on my dog uses the pillow less frequently.
I would say he uses it about once a month.
Finally, I'm not really concerned about my dog's masturbating;
I don't find such dog behavior offensive.
Eating dog poop,
for me,
is another story.
And the rate of that behavior
has also diminished with time. :-)
--Marshall
Here's FIVE cases of
COPROPHAGIA CURED
NEARLY INSTANTLY
simply by doing
EVERY THING
EXXXACTLY PRECISELY
OPPOSITE
of
HOWE
these pathetic
miserable stinkin lyin animal abusing
university professors of behavior and ethology
PREFER:
From: lolajo...@webtv.net (lolajo...@webtv.net)
Subject: Re: My greyhound becoming bully of dogpark,help?
Date: 2004-01-07 01:15:04 PST
What is wrong with "The Puppy Wizard"?
I know his posts are a little wacky but his sound distraction technique has worked very well for me. After using traditional training with mixed results,
I was able to stop my dog from jumping up, eating poop, begging from the table and excessive barking using his methods.
Lolajoker.
--------------
AND LIKE THIS:
Subject: to Jerry Howe
From: MArtog
Date: Wed, Jan 17 2001
Email: MArtog <mar...@my-deja.com>
Just wanted to say thanks. The method you told me to stop my dog from eating my other Labs sh-t in the backyard has worked well. She has also improved greatly when off leash out in the woods.
She still sniffs (ofcourse), but I rarely need to stop her from anything else. I've always been diligent about watching her, and cleaning up the yard, but ya just can't be there every second. And she is quick!
So, thanks again for the advice.
I feel more confident now when I turn my back.
And to all you folks going yea, sure, right.
THIS IS NOT A TROLL POST.
HE gave me advice. It worked. Plain and simple.
Nothing more, nothing less.
So Jerry, allthough I don't lurk here, I'm sure you're still putting up with DogButt and his ilk.
So good keep up the good work!
Off course DogButt will read this, even thoe it doesn't have his name on it. Cause he thinks he owns the group.
So to you DogButt.........Well,,,,never mind.
You're already a loser. I don't need to tell you that.
Please feel free to correct my spelling/grammer, etc. Yes, goodbye, good riddance, blah blah blah.
Later..... MArtog
----------------------------
AND LIKE THIS:
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbou...@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Re: Dog eats poo!
Date: 2000-12-05
I used sound distraction to stop my 2 dogs eating cow poo during walkies. I posted here a while ago explaining how I managed to control them from eating it but there were a lot of sceptics. If your interested I'll be glad to tell you what worked for me, just let me know and I'll post a thread on this NG.
Paul
-------------
AND LIKE THIS:
From: AIMEE (countrygirl0...@yahoo.com)
Subject: House training and such...
Date: 2003-10-08
I've been having a problem with my dog, Axel, relieving himself
in the house while I'm away from home.
I've used TPW method's,
and yesterday I was out for 12 hours,
and Axel didn't have one single "accident".
Today, I had hoped that the results would be just as good -
and they were (I was out for 11 hours).
The problem began when, as a puppy,
Axel would relieve himself in the house
and I would point at the mess and tell him
NO" or "Bad Dog".
That made him afraid to relieve himself in the house
or infront of me.
After I got TPW's training manual, I corrected my mishandling
of these instances.
When I came home to an "accident", I would simply drop a can near the area
and ask Axel "What's that?"
Then I would clean it up - with out showing him I was the least bit upset
about the mess,
and when he looked at the spot I would tell him
"Good boy, you're a good dog".
This has been an ongoing problem,
and thanks to the Puppy Wizard,
we've finally got it taken care of...
Also, Axel LOVES the cat's litter box...
He enjoys the "snacks" he can find in there...
I followed TPW's methods by alternating sounds and praising him
while or before he sticks his nose in it,
and today, he's been going into the room with the cat box and barking.
That's because he's thinking about getting into the box,
but he knows he shouldn't.
Thank you, Jerry, for all you help.
You've been a blessing to all of us.
AIMEE
-----------------------
HERE'S HOWE COME:
From: Paul B
Date: Sat, Oct 21 2000
Email: "Paul B" <NOSPAMpaulbou...@clear.net.nz>
The sound distraction and praise method he uses is VERY effective, I use those techniques on my dogs and the results are great. From teaching a dog to recall to preventing unwanted behaviours (shit eating, eating the cats food, growling when taking a bone from a dog, jumping up, even escaping from the property, any behaviour).
To say sound distraction and praise methods don't work is pure ignorance.
I can understand you not liking Jerry and being pissed off with the posts he submits but please keep things in context and don't slam a technique just because you can't stand the person suggesting using it.
Paul.
------------
From: Paul Date: Wed, Dec 6 2000 12:00 am Email: "Paul B" <NOSPAMpaulbou...@clear.net.nz>
I'm not exactly sure why Jerry is saying to ignore me, it's his advice that I found was the most successful. During walks in a particular park the dogs would come across fresh cow pats and munch away happily.
To stop this I'd set them up, I'd find a nice fresh cow turd and stand next to it, when the dogs came over and saw it they would start to munch, at the onset of this I'd chuck a throw chain near the dog to distract it and praise straight away, the reason for the praise is the dog stops eating as soon as it hears the distraction so I'm praising that behaviour, the not eating.
I'd set them up again and repeat, but make the sound come from a different direction, maybe the first time chuck the chain to the right of the dog, the next time to the left, then behind etc, it's the randomness that is effective and always sincerely praise immediately.
Now when I walk through the park they leave the turds alone, they aren't interested in them anymore due to the distraction training. Don't let the dog know that you made the sound, the sound just "occurs" this is important as it removes "you" out of the problem.
Paul
--------------------
AND LIKE THIS:
Lynn is a professional horse and dog trainer of twenty years experience:
Subject: Sweet Coprophagia
From: Lynn
Date: Wed, Sep 18 2002
Email: roudyregal@yahoo.com (Lynn)
I hate to be in such agreement all the time, but am excited about Coco the Rotti we have boarded here. Yes she made my job easier (no poo to pick up) as at her home she eats poo due to major anxiety and being punished with a stick for it. She was living on it just about.
It was gross, and she is a beautiful dog.
I decided to change this. It has taken 6 days for HER to get an appetite and I PICK up poo now. We have yard kennels here, so it's hard to catch every dog doing everything. I took all the pressure off her. SHE is using a dog house, not cowering at her gate. SHE is breaking the habit of body blocking me so I cannot leave her area. SHE is now playing ike a normal doggie.
What did I do? Not much. Just ask as the other's are doing, and be patient. Not making a big deal out of behavior she is used to being punished for.
I can snap a finger now to distract her, and say "Coco back good girl" I move into Hot and Cold on a bad day. The owner just got done putting up a security door due to her taking out the old one. The dog has quit blocking me from getting in my door when out for play. My job is getting easier, it's a pain to be rushed by a pack of dogs all trying to come in.
Call the dogs puppets, they don't care!
Lynn
--------------------------
From: MArtog
Date: Thurs, Jan 18 2001
Email: MArtog <mar...@my-deja.com>
In article <3A65FE5F.70D8D...@Rosenblatt.com>,
Jos...@Rosenblatt.com wrote:
> Ummm OK
> and if you didn't want Dog'butt' or
> anyone else to raad it.. why didn't
> you just email Jerry your thanks?
> I smell a rat....
> Bye Bye
Last reply/post from me just to explain to Joshua. Then I'm outta here (yippee).
No I was not trying to TROLL. I wanted to post a thank you to Jerry. That's it. Never said I didn't
want anyone else to read it. I did say that I knew DogButt would read it even thoe it wasn't for him. He thinks everything in here is his business.
So he had to post some childish response because he can't help it. He is sooo predictable. He will read this too and again post a childish response. If he doesn't, it will show a strength of will that I don't believe he has.
Not trying to be a rat or anything else. I clearly said what I wanted to say about Jerry's help with my dog problem.
It is sad that this group is still so antagonistic all the time.
There is a lot of knowledge here, but it is rarely disseminated in a kindly manner. Most newbies get ran off in fairly short order, and go over to r.p.d.breeds where people are much freindlier. Seems like most posters in here have been around each other too long.
Some sort of internet cabin fever or something (IMHO).
Anyway, I won't be reading your's or DogButt's reply. So feel free to go at each other's throats as usual,flame me and my post, whatever.
Again, thanks Jerry and all of you have a nice day...... well except you DogButt!
Maybe Jerry can help you stop eating sh-t!
BYE!
------------
A. S. Neill, Tthe Famous Founder of The Summerhill School,
Used To Cure Delinquent Children Way Back In The 1950's
By Paying Them For Every Time They Wet The Bed
Or Broke A Pane Of Glass
And Their Behaviour Would Stop, -
As If By MAGICK!
The Embry Study:
"While some may find it strange that reprimands might increase the chances of a child going into the street, the literature on the experimental analysis of behavior is replete with examples of how "attention to inappropriate behavior" increases the chances of more inappropriate behavior.
Thus, suggestions to parents that they talk to or reason with their children about dashing into the street will likely to have the opposite impact. Reprimands do not punish unsafe behavior; they reward it."
Source:
"Reducing the Risk of Pedestrian Accidents to Preschoolers by Parent Training and Symbolic Modeling for Children: An Experimental Analysis in the Natural Environment. Research Report Number 2 of the Safe-Playing Project."
---------------
Sam Corson, Pavlov's Last Student Demonstrated At UofOH, That Rehabilitation Of Hyperactive Dogs Can Easily And Readily Be Done Using TLC. Tender Loving Care Is At The Root Of The Scientific Management Of Doggys. <{) ; ~ ) >
"...all the highest nervous activity, as it manifests itself in the conditional reflex, consists of a continual change of these three fundamental processes -- excitation, inhibition and disinhibition," Ivan P. Pavlov
"Postitive emotions arising in connection with the perfection of a skill, irrespective of its pragmatic significance at a given moment, serve as the reinforcement. IOW, emotions, not outside rewards, are what reinforces any behavior," Ivan Pavlov.
"All animals learn best through play." -- Konrad Lorenz
From: "George von Hilsheimer, Ph.D." <drv...@mindspring.com
To: <d...@arcane-computing.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005
Subject: Doggy advice
Scott, Jerry Howe forwarded me the letter below.
I'm glad that you referred negatively to Jerry's habit of
CAPITALIZING and HOWEING everything.
I personally hate this habit of his.
I think it is his way of diluting his authority -
IME he is a very modest fellow.
However, contrary to your sneer,
he is very competent at living with dogs.
I thought I'd list a series of actions which I found on the list,
folk asking advice on what to do about dogs doing this and that,
for example:
whining,
humping,
hunching,
pacing,
self mutilation -
paw licking,
side sucking,
spinning,
prolonged barking,
barking at shadows,
overstimulated barking,
fighting,
bullying other dogs,
compulsive digging,
compulsive scratching,
compulsive chewing,
frantic behavior,
chasing light,
chasing shadow,
stealing food,
digging in garbage can,
loosing house (toilet) training.
inappropriate fearfulness
aggression.
The thing that is fascinating to me,
as an ethologist who graduated from college 50 years ago
and has spent all of the intervening time working with animals
(including the human animal),
is that you never see any of these behaviors
in wild dingoes, jackals, coyotes or wolves,
you don't even see these behaviors
in hyenas (who aren't dog related).
You see these behaviors in human managed animals,
especially animals who live with neurotic hysterical humans.
As Sam Corson (Pavlov's last student) demonstrated for nearly 50 years
at Ohio University
there is no treatment more useful for dogs
than tender loving care.
George von Hilsheimer, Ph. D., F. R. S. H.,
Diplomate, Academy of Behavioral Medicine
--------------------
From: "Dr. Von" <drv...@mindspring.com>
Date: 12 Sep 2005
Subject: Re: Clicker Training for Dogs Newsgroups?
> Jen "artbylucy" <artbyl...@comcast.net> wrote in message news:OMudnRS23OLEc7zenZ2dnUVZ_tGdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> Hello,
>> Does anyone know of a dedicated
>> newsgroup for positive-only dog
>> training, in particular clicker training?
>> Thanks, Lucy
Jen wrote:
> I would love to know of one as well.
> If there was enough people interested
> maybe we could start one.
> I've just started clicker training my dog
> and have been doing the positive
> training for a while now.
> I think it's great!!
Jen, your request for a positive only dog training list,
needs the same answer as I give the folk
who ask why I don't have a list
for what I do with biofeedback.
The method is so simple,
and if you adopt it and relate to your dog
in such a positive manner
you won't have any more problems
and there is no need for any more technique.
With Puppies we Ph.D. psychologists
have been outflanked by
the entirely practical and effective methods described in
http://www.freewebs.com/thesimplyamazingpuppywizard.
Free download, nothing sold,
no mailing list, no distribution of your name.
Free support if needed.
With ADHD kids I provide similar information at www.drbiofeedback.com
and there is no need for a list dealing with problems with kids.
Apply as directed and have happy healthy doggies or kiddies.
Not difficult.
George von Hilsheimer, Ph.D., F.R.S.H.
P.S. jerk and choke, spanking, shocking, scruff shake, choke, chin chucks,
all those negatives, denial of affection etc. are harmful, dranging, obscenities.
You might want to consider Pavlov's typology to understand
"hard and soft dogs" -
essentially he taught that there are
outward and inward responding organisms
in weak and strong nervous systems
and if you grasp this firmly
you'll shape your training methods effectively.
Punishment ALWAYS deranges behavior,
and so is recommended and given only
by deranged humans.
Of course, it doesn't matter if we are talking dogs,
cats, people, sheep, even husbands. Dr. Von
--------------
"I Am Willing To Take Jerry's Theory On How Dogs Think
As A Likely One,
Simply Because The Dog Training Methodology He Describes
(Based On His Suppositions)
Works So Well," Lisa B.
Here's professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM research at UofWI,
marshall "SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM "NO!" into ITS face
for five seconds and lock IT in a box for ten minutes contemplation,"
dermer PRYOR to gettin
JERRYIZED:
Subject: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
Date: 2001-07-10
In article <HRI27.3908$187.184...@news-rep.ab.videon.ca>
"Jenn" <d...@try.it> writes:
> Hi Lynn,
> I used to have a barking problem with my
> German Shepherd Dog a couple of years ago.
> I tried several things recommended to me by
> different trainers, and nothing was working.
> When I read that section of Jerry's Manual,
> I thought the same way you did.
> "What???? PRAISE her for barking?" It
> sounded counterproductive, but I had
> tried everything else I'd heard so I
> thought I'd try it too.
> Next time she went nuts at a person
> walking by outside, I told her, "Good
> job! Good girl! You are such a good
> protector!" And instead of continuing
> the barking, she came to me for a
> belly rub!
>
> She will still bark (she's a guard dog,
> that's her job), but after one bark, she
> knows she's done her job to warn
> me by my praise, and she stops.
> Jenn,
Could you be so kind as to post here the section
from Jerry's manual
where he writes that you should
JUST praise the dog when it barks?????????
As I recall, I thought he first advocates distracting the dog from barking,
with keys or the soft sound of pennies in a can, before praising.
Perhaps you can tutor me regarding Jerry's system.
Thanks in advance!
--Marshall Dermer
PS: I don't read Jerry's posts but I look forward to your post.
------------------
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
Subject: Re: Clicker training "stay"
Date: 2001-06-21
In article <iqtY6.5456$rA2.1119...@news-rep.ab.videon.ca>
"Jenn" <d...@try.it> writes:
> Hi, DogStar716, sorry you feel this way about
> me. I hope I can change your mind in the future,
> as I love reading your posts, and value (and have
> used) some of your advice.
BWWWWWEEEJAJAJAJAJAJAAAAA!!!
> As for my post to Jer, I am just
> attempting to get a plain answer
> about something instead of a
> trash- fest. I just want to know if
> it can be done.
> Jenn Standring
"If I Knew It Would Be That Easy,
I Would Have Done This A Long Time Ago
Saving Myself 5 Years Of Dealing With
A Bouncy, Over Excited Dog!, Jenn.
--------------------------
I'm not Jerry
but sure you could use a clicker to distract a dog
but that is not the purpose of a clicker.
You can also use a teaspoon to cut steak
but that is not the purpose of teaspoon!
--Marshall
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
Date: 2001-07-12
And how do we know this aspect of his
advice is right?
Jerry is not God and his manual is not the Bible.
His advice could be subject to an empirical analysis.
(Also, it is best to killfile posts from the
few regulars here who are either ill-tempered,
ill-mannered, or just plain ill.
"Marshall Dermer"
wrote in message news:9ihtee$7ib$1@uwm.edu...
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpand...@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
Date: 2001-07-12
Hello Marshall,
The way I view it from my observation of how my dogs react
is that the distraction interrupts the dogs thought,
not for good or bad,
just interrupts, the dog is therefore distracted for a second
and then will either continue the behaviour or do something else.
The praise reassures the dog
that the sound distraction is not a threat or punishment,
however if everytime the dog resumes a particular behaviour
it's distracted immediately
(and praised immediately for reassurance)
then it quickly decides this behaviour is not fulfilling
and it ceases.
A dog will offer another behaviour in it's place
and if that is acceptable to us
then we let it be
otherwise the distraction continues
until a suitable alternate behaviour is offered.
One example, Sam used to jump up on me when I arrived home,
I would shake can to distract him right at the moment he was about to jump up,
after about 4 repetitions he tried sitting and offering me his paw,
of course this was fine so I let it be.
While the concept of shake cans is not new,
I haven't read any other advice that says to praise immediately
regardless of what the dog does next
(the common advice is to praise once the dog is doing
a desired behaviour
or at least stopped the unwanted behaviour),
this is unique to Jerry (and Marilyn)
and from my own experiences
is an important part of the process.
> Thanks Paul! He does recommend praising
> a dog for barking, but he appears to recognize
> that this may not work and so distraction
> is recommended as a back up procedure:
> There really is NOTHING new about the
> advice above!
Nuthin EXXXCEPT HOWE IT'S DONE, professor SCRUFF SHAKE <{}: ~ ) >
From: "George von Hilsheimer, Ph.D."
Subject: Alleged Professors of Animal Behavior
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 12:50:51 -0400
Dear Jerry, I paged through some of the "dog business"
and was astonished at the low quality of opinions
arising from professors of behavior analysis.
I had the very great privilege of meeting Sam Corson
(Pavlov's last Ph.D. student) and his dogs
at Ohio University. I even got to spend a night at Sam's house.
There is no question but that you are a spiritual brother to
Corson and to Pavlov,
both of whom knew that the dog's great capacity for love
was the key to shaping doggie behavior.
Paradoxical reward and paradoxical fixing of attention
are both well documented Pavlovian techniques.
Even so humorless a chap as B.F. Skinner
taught students like the Breland's
whose "The Misbehavior of Organisms"
demonstrate the utility of your methods
and their deep roots in scientific
(as opposed to commercial) psychology.
George von Hilsheimer,
Ph.D., F.R.S.H.
you may find my resume in
Who's Who in Science and Technology
------------------
Jerry, the difficulty with these ignorant dog molesters
is that they cannot read.
Negative reinforcement is no response by the trainer.
There is positive reinforcement, an action which is followed by an increase in the targetted behavior (usually called "reward" which is precisely and technically a misnomer),
negative reinforcement is the absence of any response.
Negative means 'No'.
Skinner's last book, "CUMULATIVE RECORD" reviews this thoroughly. http://www.mcli.dist.maricopa.edu/proj/nru/nr.html
Negative reinforcement is stopping an aversive reinforcement
according to this author. Read it, they have a sense of humor!
There are four forms of systematic reinforcement:
do nothing (negative reinforcement)
reward the behavior (positive reinforcement)
punish the behavior (aversive reinforcement) after habituating the subject to punishment,
stop punishing (relief of aversion, which is negative reinforcement).
Logically, failing to reward after habituating a reward
is also negative reinforcement
Actually intermittent rewards work better than consistent, invariable rewards,
so there is actually another two categories.
Invariable reinforcement and random reinforcement
(on varying schedules).
Punishment is AVERSIVE REINFORCEMENT.
Actions which cause the animal being trained to avoid, avert, cringe away from.
Pavlovians always responded to American psychologist's
inability to reproduce Pavlov's results with dogs
with the comment, "American's don't LOVE their dogs".
If you ever observed a Russian psychologist working with a dog,
you'd instantly see the difference.
American psychologists were wooden, robot-like,
wanted to be "scientific".
This meant to them that they should display no affection,
or any other emotion with the subjects.
When a Pavlovian dog started to misbehave or fail to respond,
doggie was taken out of the equipment,
and taken home
for a loving vacation, with much TLC.
Sam Corson, Pavlov's last student,
demonstrated the same relationships at Ohio State.
Interestingly the first page of results for Sam Corson, dog behaviorist
is loaded with Jerry Howe quoting Dr. Von.
heh heh heh
Dr. Von
Oh, by the way, you once had a pompous fellow say that Dr. Von
was a figment of your imagination. I don't normally mention this,
but I have been listed in Who's Who in the S & SE USA since 1982,
and in the big books,
Who's Who in the USA,
WW in the World,
WW in Medicine etc,
and WW in Science and Technology,
since that date.
These are the Marquis Publications, the "real" WW,
and you can't get yourself into them.
GvH
---------------------
Here's professor marshall dermer, Department of
ANAL-ytic BehaviorISM at UofWI AFTER gettin
JERRYIZED:
"We Are Lucky To Have You,
And More People Should Come To Their Senses
And Support Your Valuable Work.
God Bless The Puppy Wizard,"
Professor Marshall Dermer,
Dept Of ANAL-ytic Behavior, UofWI.
From: "Marshall Dermer" <der...@csd.uwm.edu>
To: "The Puppy Wizard" <ThePuppyWiz...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004
Subject: God Bless The Puppy Wizard
Dear Mr. Puppy Wizard,
I have, of late, come to recognize your genius
and now must applaud your attempts
to save animals from painful training procedures.
You are indeed a hero,
a man of exceptional talent,
who tirelessly devotes his days
to crafting posts to alert the world
to animal abuse.
We are lucky to have you,
and more people should come to their senses
and support your valuable work.
Have you thought of establishing a nonprofit charity
to fund your important work?
Have you thought about holding a press conference
so others can learn
of your highly worthwhile and significant work?
In closing, my only suggestion is
that you try to keep your messages short
for most readers may refuse to read a long message
even if it is from the wise, heroic Puppy Wizard.
I wish you well in your endeavors.
--Marshall Dermer
Marshall Lev Dermer/Associate Professor/Behavior
Analysis Specialty/Department of Psychology/University
of Wisconsin--Milwaukee/Milwaukee, WI 53201
Office Phone: 414-229-6067/ Home Phone: 414-332-8606
der...@uwm.edu http://www.uwm.edu/~dermer
The Methods, Principles And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change,
Or They'd Not Be Scientific
And Could Not Obtain
Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective, Safe Results
For All Handler's And All Critters,
And ALL Behaviors
In ALL FIELDS And ALL UTILITIES,
ALL OVER
The Whole Wild World,
NEARLY INSTANTLY,
As Taught In Your Own FREE Copy Of The Sincerely
Incredibly Freakin Insanely Simply
A-M-A-Z-I-N-G
G-R-A-N-D
Puppy, Child, Pussy, Birdy, Goat, Ferett, Monkey
SpHOWES And Horsey Wizard's
100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY
SUCCESSFUL
FREE
WWW Wits'End Dog, Child, Kat, Ferett, Goat, Monkey
SpHOWES And Horse Training Method Manual
<{} ; ~ ) >
Abuse / Fear / Aggression / Hyperactivity / Shyness /
Suicide Attempts AIN'T Genetic Problems,
They're SPIRITUAL PROBLEMS,
Passed On From WON GeneratiHOWEN Of Abuser
To The Next,
Like The 100th Monkey Washin Fruit In The Stream.
After A While It's Not Just NORMAL,
It's -OBLIGATORY-
To Do OtherWIZE Would Be DISRESPECTFUL
Of Your Parental Teachins.
The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROME Is The Perfect Synergy
Of Love, Pride, Desire, Shame, Fear, Guilt, Anger, Hate,
Greed, Ego, Reflex, Self Will, Arrogance, Ignorance,
Predjudice, Cowardice, Disbelief, Jealousy, Embellishment,
Insult, Attrition, Hopelessness, Helplesness, Aversion,
Attraction, Inhibition, Revulsion, Repulsion, Change,
Permanence, Enlightenment, Self Realization,
Embarrassment, Humiliation,
And
Parental / ReligiHOWES / Societal Conditioning.
***YOU ARE***
THE CRITTER YOU WAS TRAINED
It Is The Perfect Fusion Of The Word..., In The Physical.
There AIN'T NO "Gray Area"
Between
RIGHT And WRONG:
"Only The Unenlightened
Speak Of Wisdom And Right Action As
Separate,
Not The Wise.
If Any Man Knows One, He Enjoys The Fruit Of Both.
The Level Which Is Reached By Wisdom
Is Attained
Through Right Action As Well.
He Who Perceives That The Two Are One
Knows The Truth." -
- Bhagavad Gita, Adapted By Krishna,
With Permission, From His Own
FREE COPY Of
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
100% Consistently Nearly Instantly Successful
FREE WWW
Wits' End Training Method Manual <{) '; ~ ) >
"A cheerful heart is good medicine,
but a crushed spirit dries up the bones".
Proverbs 17:22
Disciple Paulie Sez:
"No One Understands How Wits End Training Really Works, They Assume It's All Nicey Nicey And don't Realise It's A Very Disciplined Method That Deals With Any Situation And The Foundation Is Built On Trust And Understanding.
I've never forced my dogs to do anything, I tell them they are good dogs and they seem to follow me, once I told them they were bad dogs and they ran away from me, now I only ever tell them they are good dogs and they always are, always.
Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say "good dog" sincerely at the end of the request and I bet you'll find your dog thinking then responding everytime.
A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies to every aspect of the relationship with your dog.
Obedience and affection are not related, if they were everyone would have obedient dogs.
I have found giving dogs "payment" in advance i.e. "Sam sit goodboy" makes the dogs want to respond, after all, all dogs want to be "good dogs" and if you tell them they are good then they feel an obligation to obey your request.
Telling Sam he's a good dog AFTER he sit's apart from been too late is also a gamble because if he doesn't sit then there's no positive interaction. Paul
If you can't train ALL behaviors NEARLY INSTANTLY withHOWET PAIN FEAR FORCE BRIBERY AVOIDANCE CRATING INTIMIDATION, or witholding UNCONDITIONAL LOVE TRUST and RESPECT you're using an ineffective method or you're doin it wrong.
Here's The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE WWW *777* Wits' End Training Method Manual <{); ~ ) >
It AIN'T just for DOGS, People. The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's NON PHYSICAL psychological and scientific Pavlovian and Ericksonian techniques works for ALL mammals, dogs, kats, rats, ferrets, even birdies *(which ain't mammals), kids, Monkeys,
SP-HOWESES, any sentinent critter. Just substitute the species you're dealin with wherever the text sez dog or puppy.
Study The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE WWW Wits' End Training Method Manual carefully and follow all the instructions and exercises precisely and you'll get your 100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL NEARLY INSTANTLY and ASK ME if you need any additional FREE HEELP!.
An epiphany:
Many years ago The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard thought the SECRET to an effective training manual laid in the INDEXING and CROSS REFERENCING. THEN, HE LEARNED that would be the FAILURE of the method, as people WANT to take the EZ way HOWET and SKIM over the "unimportant drivel", stuff that don't apply to *THEM* and *THEIR* specific PROBLEM.
For that reason and to CONfHOWEND the professional dog abusers and university obsfucationists who'd try to skim through the text lookin for "MISTAKES" to quote, The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard wrote HIS 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual in such a manner as to make it NECESSARY to read the entire text in order to use or criticize it.
And THAT'S HOWE COME we GET 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANT SUCCESS. So RELAXXX and ENJOY learnin HOWE to do it and share it with your friends <{); ~ ) >
The fameHOWES horse trainer Monty Roberts AGREES and teaches similar techniques, begining with his version of The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's Family Ledership Exercise, "The Join-Up".
Monty's 100% NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL techniques likeWIZE teaches us to "JOIN UP" with the horse using their own body language he's OBSERVED which he calls "Equs", similarly as The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard teaches you to do with your dog, kat, rat, bird, kid, goat, ferett, monkey or SP-HOWES using EFFECTIVE NON PHYSICAL PSYCHOLOGICAL TECHNIQUES and PRINCIPLES of behavior as taught in your own FREE copy of The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual which HE has learned through field observation of the most troubled dogs kats kids and people in the WHOWEL WILD WORLD <{); ~ ) >
The Methods, Principles And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change,
Or They'd Not Be Scientific
And Could Not Obtain
Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective, Safe Results
For All Handler's And All Critters,
And ALL Behaviors
In ALL FIELDS And ALL UTILITIES,
ALL OVER
The Whole Wild World,
NEARLY INSTANTLY,
As Taught In Your Own FREE Copy Of The Sincerely
Incredibly Freakin Insanely Simply
A-M-A-Z-I-N-G
G-R-A-N-D
Puppy, Child, Pussy, Birdy, Goat, Ferett, Monkey
SpHOWES And Horsey Wizard's
100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY
SUCCESSFUL
FREE
WWW Wits'End Dog, Child, Kat, Birdy, Ferett, Goat, Monkey
SpHOWES And Horse Training Method Manual
<{} ; ~ ) >
Monty sez abHOWET bribery and food luring:
he's "NEVER seen a horse run to the next blade of grass":
"Despite Skinner's clear denunciation of "negative reinforcement" (1958) NEARLY EVER LEARNING THEORY model involves the USE OF PUNISHMENT. Of curse, Skinner has never to my knowledge, demonstrated HOWE we escape the phenomenon that an expected reward not received is experienced as a punishment and can produce extensive and persistent aggression (Azrin et al, 1966)."
Monty teaches and relies on UNCONDITIONAL LOVE, TRUST, RESPECT, GENTLENESS and CONSISTENTCY and applies his horsey techniques to problem children he fosters at his ranch, as well as in his business consultation for managemet personnel for corporations.
"The IMBECILITY of some of the claims for operant technique simply take the breath away. Lovas et al (1966) report a standard contingent reward/punishment procedure developing imitative speech in two severly disturbed non verbal schizophrenic boys. After twenty- six days the boys are reported to have been learning new words with alacrity. HOWEver, when REWARDS were moved to a delayed contingency the behavior and learning immediately deteriorated."
"Whelan illustrates the simple nature or the learning process by referring to Ferster's engaging study of two three year old chimpanzees taught mathematics through simple procedures. Whelan carries this EVIDENCE a step futher by pointing HOWET it's applicability to disturbed children."
"Skinner (1948, 1953) approaches a definition of the philosophical issues involved, and provides an utopian model of a school, but generally psychologists seem STUCK at a level of MANAGEMENT of an aggressively disturbing child in the classroom, through peer approval, or the aplication of accelerating CONsequences in the classroom, or scientifically S-HOWENDING tactics like "TIME HOWET" (which we used to know more simply as "sendin the kid to the cloakroom")."
Kanner (1954) reports that 13 classically autistic children improved enough to go to school without "anything that is regarded as good psychotherapy or as psychotherapy at all..."
"It is NO WONDER that the marked changes in deviant behavior of children can be achieved through brief, simple educative routines with their mothers which modify the mother's social behaviors shaping the child (Whaler, 1966). Some clinics have reported ELIMINATION ofthe need for child THERAPY through changing the clinical emphasis from clinical to parental HANDLING of the child (Szrynski 1965)."
Autistic children have been known to become permenantely social by deinstitutionalization, BY REMOVAL from the parents, BY RADICAL CHANGES in other environments, and by MASSIVE DOSAGE of TOUCHING, HOLDING, FONDLING LOVE DESPITE THE REJECTION OF THE CHILD."
LeeCharlesKelley Wrote:
From what I've read of Jerry's method it incorporates a completely new model of learning, which is based (in simplest terms) on the idea that all behavior is the result of finding a way to relieve emotional tension.
This is true not just for dogs but all animals.
You don't believe in the validity of this particular model of learning? You don't think it makes sense?
Fine, I guess.
But it makes total sense to me.
And it made sense to Pavlov, too, though not many people know this:
"Postitive emotions arising in connection with the perfection of a skill, irrespective of its pragmatic significance at a given moment, serve as the reinforcement. IOW, emotions, not outside rewards, are what reinforces any behavior."
LeeCharlesKelley is a mystery writer and author of "No Bad Dogs Only Bad Trainers". His work is based on Kevin Behan's "Natural Dog Training". EXXXCLELLENT STUFF, but not for us (The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard <{) ; ~ ) >
"all the highest nervous activity, as it manifests itself in the conditional reflex, consists of a continual change of these three fundamental processes - excitation,inhibition and disinhibition," Ivan P. Pavlov.
Pavlov Told Us So 100 Years Ago. Sam Corson, Pavlov's Last Student Demonstrated At UofOH, That Rehabilitation Of Hyperactive Dogs Can Easily And Readily Be Done Using TLC. Tender Loving Care Is At The Root Of The Scientific Management Of Doggys. <{) ; ~ ) >
"All animals learn best through play," Konrad Lorenz.
Complex activities are LEARNED MORE QUICKLY through OBSERVATION (copying, if you will) than by trial and error with reinforcemet (Luchins,).
The SCIENCE of Dog training and behavior AIN'T LUCK.
"Luck is for SUCKERS," The Puppy Wizard's DADDY <{) ; ~ ) >
Of curse there's PLENTY of folks who WON'T LIKE what they LEARN HERE, even more than the professional dog trainers and university behaviorists / veterinary ethologists who've been discredited by The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's teachings, as it NULIFIES THEIR LIVES.
We call those disgruntled students, PARENTS and TEACHERS.
HOWEver, apupriate handling and training IS a LIFE or DEATH critteria of ETHICAL BREEDING, MORALS and PRINCIPALS.
Monty has FHOWEND as The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ:
A DOG Is A Dog;
As A KAT Is A KAT;
As A BIRDY Is A BIRDY;
As A Horse Is A Horse;
As A CHILD IS A CHILD;
As A SP-HOWES Is a SP-HOWES;
As A Mass Murderer Is A Mass Murderer.
ALL Critters Only Respond
In PREDICTABLE
INNATE NORMAL NATURAL INSTINCTIVE REFLEXIVE
Ways;
To Situations And Circumstances Of Their Environment
Which We Create For Them.
You GET The Critter You TRAINED
ALL TEMPERAMENT AND BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS
And 90% Of ALL DIS-EASES ARE
CAUSED BY MISHANDLING,
Poor Nutrition / Environmental Toxins And Iatrogenic Malpractice.
In The Problem Animal Behavior BUSINESS
FAILURE MEANS DEATH.
SAME SAME SAME SAME,
For The Problem Child Behavior BUSINESS.
"It Is By Muteness That A Dog Becomes So Utterly Beyond Value."
Like A Confessor Priest?
"With Him, Words Play No Torturing Tricks..., "
--John Galsworthy.
Don't Bet Your Dog Won't Tell On You...
Their Behaviors Reflect
HOWER Words, Actions And Training Quirks.
Jerry HOWE, The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard <{} ; ~ ) >
"If You Talk With The Animals,
They Will Talk With You
And You Will Know Each Other.
If You Do Not Talk To Them,
You Will Not Know Them,
And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear.
What One Fears, One Destroys."
Chief Dan George
"The Greatness Of A Nation
And Its Moral Progress
Can Be Judged By
The Way Its Animals Are Treated." -
~ Mohandas Gandhi -
- Adapted with permission
From His Own
FREE COPY Of
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
FREE WWW
Wits' End Training Method Manual <} ; ~ ) >
There Are NO Gray Areas
Between
RIGHT And WRONG.
"Only The Unenlightened Speak Of Wisdom
And Right Action
As Separate, Not The Wise.
If Any Man Knows One, He Enjoys The Fruit Of Both.
The Level Which Is Reached By Wisdom
Is Attained
Through Right Action As Well.
He Who Perceives That The Two Are One
Knows The Truth."
"Even The Wise Man Acts In Character
With His Nature,
Indeed All Creatures Act
According To Their Natures.
What Is The Use Of Compulsion Then?
The Love And Hate Which Are Aroused By
The Objects Of Sense Arise From Nature,
DO NOT YIELD TO THEM.
They Only Obstruct The Path."-
- Bhagavad Gita,
Adapted By Krishna
With Permission From His Own
FREE COPY Of
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
100% Consistently Nearly Instantly Successful
FREE WWW
Wits' End Training Method Manual <{) '; ~ ) >
Force Training JERRYIZES Critters And GETS THEM DEAD.
It's called The Puppy Wizard's Syndrome:
The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROME
Is the Perfect Synergy Of
Love, Pride, Desire, Shame, Greed, Ego,
Fear, Hate, Reflex,
Self Will, Arrogance, Ignorance,
Predjudice, Cowardice, Disbelief,
Jealousy, Embarrassment, Embellishment,
Guilt, Anger, Hopelessness, Helplesness,
Aversion, Attraction, Inhibition,
Revulsion, Repulsion, Change, Permanence,
Enlightenment, Insult, Attrition,
And Parental / ReligiHOWES / Societal
Conditioning.
YOU ARE THE CRITTER YOU WAS TRAINED.
It Is The Perfect Fusion Of The Word..., In The Physical.
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard <{) ; ~ ) >
Ask me if you need any additional free heelp.
Here's ALL the INFORMATION you need to pupperly handle and train your dog:
The Wits' End Dog Training Method Jerry Howe Copyright 6/04/06 Phone: 1-407-425-5092 (Anytime) TheAmazingPuppyWizard at Mail.Com
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
INTRODUCTION HOWE IS WITS' END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT?
PART I
1. METHODOLOGY
1A. Common Misunderstandings
1B. Learn Today!
2. GETTING STARTED
2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling
2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex?
2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes
3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise
4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise
5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command
6, Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex
7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! (Also see conclusion)
7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior
7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance
7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance
7D. How to Correct Mouthing
7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems
7F. Housebreaking Technique
7G. Paper Training
7H Peeing Squeaky Toy
8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover The Alpha Rollover
9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique
9A. The Soggy Potato Chip Theory
10. THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY
10A. State Conditioned Learning
10B. Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct
10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind
10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training
PART II
1. OBEDIENCE
2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK
2A. Back to Work
2B. Stay
2C. Sit From the Side
2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel
2E. Sit From the Front
3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE
3A. Down From the Side
3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command
3C. Returning to the Heel Position
3D. Down From the Front
4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS
5. STAND
Introduction
The Wits' End Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior modification/ obedience and protection training technique available anywhere...
And now, it's FREE!!! It's copyright 2006 information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all.
The no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional, which means no critter is too young, too old, too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train.
Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard to research new methods to instruct humans as well as canines. All behavior problems are caused by our ineffective and inappropriate efforts to control a critters' predictable, innate, normal, natural, instinctive, reflexive responses to circumstances of their environment we create for them.
Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need critters you, your friends and neighbors, society, the WHOWEL WILD WORLD can live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your critter matures, not when it's too late!
This requires a basic understanding of how your creature thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, coupled with installation of the "recall" or "come" command as a conditional reflex, are all that one needs to effectively control the companion dog, child, horse, rat, kat, ferret, birdy, SP-HOWES or professor.
The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are normal natural innate instinctive reflexive challenges to your leadership and authority.
Wits' End Dog Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of training and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet to convince him you are his appropriate leader and make him naturally want to do anything you ask the first time.
Wits' End Training is easy, quick, foolproof, and works every time, with every critter, even university professors, SP-HOWESES and wolves!
The ability to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. These enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dogs' brain.
These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits' End Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, bribery, constant corrections and scolding.
This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn to properly handle and train ANY critter. You will address the most difficult behaviors with safe, gentle, effective tools, real answers and common sense.
Successful completion of The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's program means you will never need another dog training lesson again!
The Wits' End Method trains you to use the most effective, positive, intelligent formulas, based on effective scientific, psychological and behavioral principles and accelerated learning techniques.
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard will teach you how critters learn and how to apply HIS forty years of knowledge and experience to convince your critter to NATURALLY WANT to do anything you ask, the first time, every time!
Howe is Wits' End Training Different?
Wits' End Training is not concerned with "training," but rather teaching the development of the thought process, molding and safeguarding the proper development of personality, stable temperament, good character and SCIENTIFICALLY EXTINGUISHING undesirable traits.
The first thing you may notice is the lack of confusing psychobabble. Sure, it's almost impossible to avoid any use of ANY psychobabble, but there's no need to complicate learning new information with unnecessary technical jargon.
In an effort to eschew obfuscation and for your enjoyment, I have provided a list of several psychological components of behavior. It is helpful to realize that such terms exist, if for nothing else but to reassure yourself that there is a basis for some things we'll be discussing.
You'll find the terminology "eschew obfuscation" listed near the end of part one of this manual, to help make things more understandable as well as lots of other tips and examples.
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard is accustomed to criticism from a variety of pet professionals. Holding different values is not a crime, although sometimes it might be considered a sin.
Consider how you would feel if you'd spent years studying at our best universities, only to be shown by a simple, uneducated, backyard, shade tree, s*it kicking dog trainer, that your education is obsolete, that you've been misled by professors who'd missed the point?
You'd respond, "What degrees do you hold?"
Forty years ago this trainer chose no longer to train dogs according to the techniques available. It simply wasn't worth doing. One experience of souring the spirit of a beautiful, troubled dog, while following the best advice available from the most accredited sources anywhere, was enough for him.
Today, the state of the art in dog training industry remains about the same. Modern dog training has undergone little change since its inception in this country as a sport at the end of World War II, except to have gotten WORSE with the advent of the "clicker method" and pronged spiked pinch choke and shock and aversive spray devices endorsed by university behavior clinics and veterinary ethologists.
Traditional dog training methodology was and still is based on the military model utilized on the Nazis command dogs as taught by william koehler and captain arthur haggerty US Army K-9 Corps (Retired), lying, dog abusing cowards that they are. AnyWON tellin you any different is a MENTAL CASE on accHOWENT of we got it ALL in their own writing <{): ~ ) >
Fortunately, this trainer's family, being in the kennel business, provided many more troubled dogs that didn't have the alternative to decline training or be DESTROYED.
Necessity, being the mother of invention, prevailed.
There had to be a better way. I was at my Wits' End, still am, and now you can be too! The Simply Amazing Puppy
Wizard will never recommend seeking outside assistance or other books, abuse or use of unnatural, artificial, repressive or abusive training aids like electric shock collars, choke collars, spiked collars, aversives of ANY kind, scolding, staring, glaring, shaking, reprimanding, finger pointing, gourmet food recipes used for bribery, threats, intimidation, physical force, sharp
commands, punishing sounds, punishment of any kind, or deviation from the Wits' End Dog Training Method <{) ; ~ ) >
It only takes one lapse of judgment to subvert the deep trust established through our work. Food bribes, or treats associated with training, although generally endorsed by traditional trainers, is strictly against everything we are trying to impart through our unconventional approach.
Getting results at the expense of the higher attributes of learning is, I know, ignorant and dangerous. Any time your creature is more concerned with his gut than your attention or desires, you could be the next course on the menu. We're training companions, not pigs.
For obvious reasons, there are very few training aids I can endorse. The head halter K-9 Kum-A-Long invented by Dra. Alice DeGroote is good if used properly.
The product called Gentle Leader is NOT gentle, nor does it lead. The instructions for fitting the device INTENDS to force control and HURT when "necessary" and must be applied tightly enough to trigger positive thigmotaxis, the OPPOSITION REFLEX <{): ~ ( >
There are many more reasons that I cannot endorse any books or publications regarding training tips. I highly recommend NOT reading other training guides until you fully comprehend this method.
Dogs, being pack animals, not unlike the human family, have rules dictated by nature. We will capitalize on their natural instinct and knowing the nature of the beast, be prepared to anticipate all of your dog's options to cooperate or subvert your efforts to control him.
Your dog's job is to oppose you. Your job is to negotiate then compromise; ask for more, then give up; move to one of the appropriate defaults and then return to your original desired request.
Canine logic and strategy dictate our methodology.
Everything has a rational outcome that is arrived at through the process of elimination of undesired possibilities through a default system. Using this approach we eliminate stress, confrontation and otherwise negative influences in the training session.
All we need to do is to establish a smooth flow of information and allow thoughts to flow fluidly, maintaining an open dialogue without becoming focused on the desired command, or getting stuck in a confrontation.
You are going to teach your dog an entire concept, not just a simple, trite command. We are going to obtain strict discipline without giving the sense of being strict or disciplinarian. The Wits' End Dog Training Method breaks ordinary dog training rules, not a dog's spirit.
PART I METHODOLOGY
There are a few prerequisites to obtain results that will last a lifetime: Nothing will be accomplished without first building the foundation. Addressing behavioral problems without establishing these fundamentals will waste time and further entrench opposition, contempt, fear and misbehavior.
Causes of failure may be:
Over training, or practicing training sessions longer than directed. Our weekly (later monthly) training session is no longer than 15 minutes. Daily training
(may be every other day) sessions take only four minutes.
Training your dog in his backyard (don't make him work in his "free area").
Not taking the time to be certain of your next move. Not taking time to plan your best move. "Telegraphing" your next move. Misreading your dog's intent. Interrupting your dog's thought process. Physical contact of any kind while he's thinking.
Failure to praise every eye contact your dog makes with you (every time your dog glances over toward you requires spontaneous non-physical praise).
Generally not understanding the psychology involved with teaching your dog to think, learn, rationalize, and solve problems.
Being goal-oriented is a major error. We have a methodology based on defaults. We expect you will find some refreshing and incredible differences in our system, quite opposed to what have been formerly held as traditional truths.
Don't make learning this information any more difficult than need be. Just relax, and don't try to commit this text to memory. You'll probably learn what's important on your first review of this material.
There are some confusing thoughts that will become clear as you proceed. Then you may go back to the specific techniques to practice, so don't try to get it all at once.
Don't expect your pet professionals to understand or accept our philosophy, we've tried. We don't accept theirs. Just understand they are only doing what they were taught by other incompetent fearful control freaks.
Follow our system, not their logic. Once your dog recognizes your goals, you lose. Lose? YES. Everything is different at Wits'End.
Surely you'd think we'd want our dogs to recognize our goals, but does Macey's tell Gimbel's?!
We want our dogs to work for us.
To work this system, one must expect things to happen, allow for errors and regard any effort, even an attempt to leave, as positive effort.
You will soon learn that any effort or energy, even negative, can be converted to positive.
Be consistent and never try to "make things happen".
Dogs don't like to be made to do things for no good reason. Dogs are much smarter than most trainers and behaviorists believe. The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities.
Most of your dog's mistakes are an integral part of learning and are welcomed here, as an opportunity to teach and provide a positive learning experience.
1A. Common Misunderstandings
It seems everybody tells their dog "don't do this or that." What he hears is only "do this or that." Dogs don't understand the concept of "don't do something."
You'd communicate more clearly with your dog by simply distracting him with a very brief, random sound and telling him he's a good boy.
It's going to take you a while before you feel comfortable telling your dog he's doing good, when you've just caught him doing something "wrong".
There is a system here.
The problem is that most people think like people. Most dogs think like dogs. It's all explained in the chapter entitled "Learn Today."
That you can't correct a mistake after it has happened is another fallacy that will be dispelled in the chapter entitled "Using Sound To Break Bad Behavior."
One of the most common behavioral problems we hear is when your dog barks incessantly at people approaching your home. Most people find themselves fighting a losing battle, trying to stop their dog from barking aggressively at the door, fence, window, etc...
Here's the scenario. Dog says: "Warning, warning, there's someone out there!"
You say: "Stop That Noise!"
Dog says: "But there is someone out there!"
You say: "Get Off The Door, You're Scratching It."
Dog Says: "They're Coming In! You're Not Listening To Me."
You Say: "You're Not Listening To Me! You're Scratching The Door! They're trying to come In!"
Dog Says: "I'll Save You! Just Let Me Through This Door!"
You say: "Now I'm really mad! You're scratching the door! I Can't Have Them In With You Acting Like This!"
Dog Says: "Me Too! I'm Really Mad! Just Let Me Through This Door! I Can't Have Them In If They Are So Upsetting To You!"
The situation continues to worsen; as the dog does what he knows is best for his home and you. The dialogue just continues to become more confusing.
The more concerned you become about his behavior, the more he believes you are worried about these unknown persons. Your upset will make him protective. He doesn't realize that it's his behavior you are worried about.
Here's HOWE the scenario should be:
Dog says: "Warning, warning, warning, there's someone out there!"
You say: "GOOD BOY! Who's there?"
Dog says: "I don't know, but you'd better be careful!"
You say: "Good boy, I can see them, it's friends."
Dog Says: "I Don't Think So, You'd Better Be Careful!"
You say: "I can see who it is, they are friends, you're a good boy."
Dog says: "Cool! Maybe we'll have tea and biscuits!"
Most dogs are simply not validated for their efforts at doing their job, and so many problems are a result of just such misunderstandings.
We have ways of dealing with all kinds of behavior, those we can observe, as well as those that (in most cases,) occur when we are not present. Most trainers agree that you cannot correct your dog after the fact.
Their logic is that dogs can't remember mistakes they committed earlier, perhaps only earlier today.
If this is the case, then how do you think dogs can remember a "lost" toy, hidden under a piece of furniture many weeks after it had gotten misplaced? Do you really want to believe he cannot remember doing something mischievous earlier today?
Here are two more misunderstandings about dogs and horses:
"He would never bite" or "he will never kick". Although most dogs and horses never do bite, or kick, you can never be sure that any dog or horse no matter how well you know him, will never bite or kick.
While watchin a horse dealer sellin his favorite yearling he said "this horse is a sound as can be" and lovingly slapped him on the rump at which point the colt gave it to him with both barrels.
The sale was COOKED.
"Wagging tails are an indicator of mood or temper." Wrong again! You can determine some information by observing a dog's tail movement, but don't count on it to tell you about his intent. IN FACT, most wagging is a SYMPTOM of ANXIETY. That "happy dance" trainers talk about when thir dogs see their leash and collar coming is often a PLEA to not be choked.
Some things you'll be able to determine are how comfortable he is with the command or situation he's in. If the tail is kept tightly underneath, this means he's very uncomfortable, nervous, or scared.
If the tail curves around the flanks when he's sitting or lying, this shows he's somewhat comfortable.
If it is straight out behind him, this indicates he is very comfortable and eager to be working with what we're asking of him.
If he is sitting on it, with a slight curl at the base, this indicates he's in the process of learning something.
1B. Learn Today!
Today, you will learn to use and become proficient with the "recall" or "come" command, through the installation of a conditional reflex. Conditional reflex can be used to teach any command, but for our purposes at this time, it will only be used for "recall," or "come," as it is not useful in the development of higher learning and thought processes.
Howe Dogs Learn
Dogs can learn and UN-learn any behavior in four properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme, these four repetitions should be performed in four different places with four different but similar situations.
EXAMPLE:
The first time your dog hears a new command, he probably has no idea what is being requested. When he hears the command a second time, he begins to comprehend. The third time, he fully understands, but dogs being dogs, he is going to resist the new command.
This hesitation is called a learning plateau.
Learning plateaus require a few moments to sort and file information, not unlike your computer. I get easily frustrated with these computers, because unlike humans and animals, I expect a ommand to my computer to be followed immediately.
But even at the speed of light, commands need to be sorted out to go to memory.
Just like your computer asks, "do you really want to delete this file?" your dog does the same. This usually happens on the third request, or instance, of trying to teach or break a behavior.
So, when your dog thinks about the new behavior being learned or unlearned, praise (non-physical praise) and patience, are required during the few moments it takes to correctly file this new information.
However, once again, although your dog may fully understand what you are trying to accomplish now that you've demonstrated this behavior three times, means he's going to try to go against your desire!
His job is to oppose you.
He needs to think things out during the third request. This moment requires praise, regardless of what the dog is thinking.
He's going to ponder the idea, then glance at you. Back to the idea, now thinking of you. Then think about the idea, and then think about you. Follow his thinking, and re-enforce it with praise.
Non-physical praise only.
You cannot second-guess what he might be thinking at this time. Presume nothing. Allow his choice to dictate your next move. Chances are, he's going to continue one last try at having his own way.
There are only two choices he can make. He's either going to do it correctly, for which you'll continue praise and wait for the forthcoming opportunity to est him out, or, he's going to do it wrong, for which you'll continue to praise until you are sure he got it wrong, for which you'll perform the correct move to re-enforce the desired behavior, while continuing to praise, non physically, of course.
Using this system, you cannot go wrong. Simply praise whatever he might be thinking. This process of elimination / extinguishment gives us the opportunity to allow your dog to progress at his own speed.
The third time your dog is given a command, he'll probably do it incorrectly just to see if you are going to be consistent. Once that has been done, the fourth occasion will completely "delete" the old information or "open" the new "file."
2 GETTING STARTED The equipment you will need:
A 6 ft. leather or web lead. Nylon or rope may slide through the fingers, causing a burn or blister. A chain may do likewise, and is too heavy, making the dog feel that you are pulling.
A flat collar or non restrictive harness or K-9 Kum-A-Long by Dra. Alice DeGroote.
A retractible lead or twenty-foot long line, or rope.
Four empty but clean soda cans, slightly crushed so as to be "square" to prevent them rolling and creating a prolonged sound, with six pennies inside each, with tape over the opening.
A utility bag for carrying equipment.
Lastly, you'll need an open mind and a desire to improve the quality of life for your pet.
2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling
Failure to handle your lead properly is usually the first mistake that leads to your next and more crucial mistakes.
The lead must be handled in a casual and relaxed manner to avoid transmitting tension and triggering the opposition reflex in your dog.
Start by opening your hand with the thumb extended and palm facing you. Hang the loop or handle over the thumb, and gently close fist around both lengths of the handle.
Close your thumb down over the second joint of the index finger. Pull down so the handle is snug over your thumb as you maintain a gentle grasp around the handle. This is a safety. If your dog should pull hard, the handle will not accidentally slip through your palm.
If it is imminent that you will lose balance and fall, opening the fist will release you and prevent a fall.
Next, take the length of your lead and bring it upward, placing it under the fingers and in contact with both sides of the handle in your closed palm.
You should now be able to pull or slide the running length through the palm to make adjustments. Drop your arm down to your side and RELAXXX your elbow and shoulder. The length should break just at your kneecap if you're dog were in the heel position.
Ordinarily, the heel position is with your dog on your left side and the lead will be held in your right hand. Your left hand must never (until you are trained) hold the lead while in the heel position, except to collect the length to return it to your right hand.
The length of your lead shall break just below your left kneecap. If you need to work your dog on your right side, or from in front, or at a distance, the lead will be in your left hand. (If you are going to heel your dog on your right side, for our purposes, you will need to make the appropriate adjustments with regard to left and right signals, turns, etc.
I recommend not doing so at this time, unless physical needs dictate).
The heel position means your dog's shoulder is at your knee. It does not matter whether he is standing, sitting, walking, lying down, or jumping straight up in the air!
In fact, if I could get all of my dogs to heel while jumping straight up in the air, I would be ecstatic. If your dog's shoulders are aligned at your knee and he is facing the same direction as you, that's the heel position.
Trivial as this may seem, nothing in the Wits' End Dog Training Method (at this point) is arbitrary.
Pay close attention to the above details. Notice that the running length of the lead should easily flow through the closed fingers. The arm should hang relaxed at your side. Keep your back straight; don't lean over your dog. The length of the lead should break at your kneecap.
Never allow the length of your lead to loop over or between any fingers, as this will create a block, creating tension in your hand, causing a bend at the elbow, creating tension on your dog's collar, triggering the opposition reflex, thus defeating our method.
There should never be any tension applied to your dog's collar. A flat collar, one that does not choke, is required to prevent unintentional constriction or pulling. If you expect your dog to try to slip out of his collar, you may "back it up" with a choke collar to prevent his slipping free.
One word of caution: you should never need to apply enough tension to cause your dog to back up and slip his flat collar. Whenever pulling occurs, just immediately give slack into the lead (without stepping forward) and follow with "good boy."
Tension on the collar must be released instantly.
If pulling continues, you may need to pull your dog back just one inch, just enough to gain the slack necessary to give it back to him, while praising.
This technique and a practice exercise will be covered in detail in the trouble shooting section.
Here's a brief aside you may appreciate. Once in a training session, I was instructing a male student regarding how to praise his terribly out of control Cocker Spaniel. He told me flat out that he could not "do that" (meaning praise his pet as I requested).
This had happened once before, that a rather "macho" student of mine refused to follow directions at the onset of our lesson. As I sadly began to collect my equipment, I asked, "Why can't you speak to your pet as I request?" He lowered his eyes, and mumbled that he just couldn't talk to his dog "like that".
In desperation I asked, "Well, how do you talk to your dog?" He said that he had a very special relationship with his critter and he always talked to her in a particularly loving manner. "Show me how you do talk to her," I said. At this point, he began a litany of cooing and prose that in remembrance still causes me to choke with laughter!
I realized then that my concern was for naught, and my efforts would be valued and appreciated. So feel free to use your own choice of words for such commands as "praise," or "take a break," "you're free," "back to work," and even other commands such as heel, sit, stay, etc.
Contrary to customary belief, we know that dogs DO understand words. We do not anthropomorphize (give human qualities to animals), but we do recognize a dichotomy of cognitive intelligence based on our experience and empirical evidence, versus traditional ideology.
This sets the Wits' End Training Method apart, for which we will remain eternally grateful. One point of caution, however: be careful not to use words such as "O.K." in any command sequence, as it is so commonly used, you may find yourself accidentally releasing or otherwise inadvertently signaling your dog.
2B. What is a Conditional Reflex?
Dr. Ian Pavlov discovered conditional reflex in the first decade of this century. He came upon this discovery quite by accident while working with some dogs in an experiment for human psychology.
He noticed that some of the dogs coming to his research laboratory began to drool in anticipation of the food rewards that were going to be offered during his experiment, even prior to entering the laboratory.
This piqued his curiosity to the point that he needed to see what was going on. He invited some dogs to stay in the lab for this study. No doubt you have heard of "Pavlov's bell."
The dogs were presented with some liver while a bell was struck. After several occasions of this conditioning, the bell was struck without the promised treat.
The dogs naturally got excited anticipating the liver and began to salivate (drool). Thus came the discovery of conditional reflex.
Conditional reflex is just that. Conditioning, which simply put means the same stimuli, presented in the same manner, so as to be exact; and reflex, that is to say, a reaction over which one has no control. Be aware, that in order to meet these criteria successfully, each element must be adhered to precisely.
That is to say, the exact same treat presented with the exact same sound, in the exact same manner each time. Be aware that we are not suggesting that you use any food for our purposes, as it would be contra- indicated.
2C. How to Install a Conditional Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes
Just as a child steps into the street without being aware of the meaning of the blast of a car horn and continues on his way in oblivion and maybe INTO oblivion, it takes experiences to become conditioned to understand the meaning of the horn. I'll bet that when you step off of a curb and hear a car horn blow, your head spins both ways at once, as you jump back, looking for the impending accident.
The difference is conditioning.
This is going to require a few minutes of practice, without the presence of your dogs. It would be preferable to do this with the help of available friends or family members, but may be successfully done alone.
What we need to do is develop a sense of timing.
Here is where the previously called for cans with the pennies will come in. Have the cans rinsed clean and dry. Insert six pennies in each can, tape the top shut and crush the sides of the cans, so as to make them square to prevent the cans from rolling, to avoid creating a prolonged sound.
! Silence is Golden !
It is imperative that you handle these cans silently! At any time, should these training aids accidentally create a sound, praise must accompany the event.
This will tell the dog you were not addressing his behavior and that he should disregard the incident. When more than one dog is present and any dog is being addressed through the use of sound, each dog must be individually praised and acknowledged with direct eye contact and non-physical praise.
Praise Must Always Accompany Sound, with one exception.
That is, when a behavior is being addressed after the fact.
When you have discovered a behavior that occurred when you were not present, this would be the only time the sound shall be presented without verbal praise. The details are covered later in "using sound to break bad behavior."
To teach your dog the "recall" or "come" command, we must first create a phrase and select a "key" or "cue" word in that phrase. Example: "your dog's name, come, good boy." In this phrase, we shall select "come" as our "key" or "cue" word.
The objective is to create a brief sound exactly on the "key" or "cue" word. The phrase must be spoken with no pauses, commas, or breaths in between words. The phrase must be spoken quickly, in an even-tempered tone of voice.
The sound will be applied ONLY on the KEY or CUE words ONLY on the second and fourth requests. In other words, give him the opportunity to respond correctly on each first request following a command given with a sound cue.
The second request must be accompanied by sound. The next request would be treated as a first request.
You'll see later.
The first instance of any phrase you will use must be presented without the accompaniment of sound. If your dog should respond properly to this first request, "your dog's name, come, good boy," praise him immediately, even before he begins to move.
Any response, the twitch of an ear or tail, a shuffle of a foot, a brief glance, any reaction at all, to any command, always requires spontaneous, instant, continuous praise, for five to fifteen seconds or however long your dog is thinking about your request (even if he' thinking of leaving or ignoring you!).
Continue praising constantly until your dog comes all the way to you, even if it requires that you move backward as you continue to speak praise and coax, even plead or beg, but do not repeat the command phrase.
As long as you are moving backward and he is coming forward, he's still coming. In this example, let's say the dog properly (maybe coincidentally) performed.
However, that does not mean that he will always respond.
Remember, a conditional reflex means that your dog has ABSOLUTELY NO CHOICE BUT TO RESPOND PROPERLY!
Later, when you are done with all of the intricacies involved, test it out like this: Find yourself and your trained dog in a comfortable situation, like yourself sitting in your easy chair and him snoozing by the fireplace.
Ask him to come in the prescribed manner. When he gladly jumps up and sticks his big wet nose in your face, pat him, and tell him he's free.
Let him resume his leisurely pursuits and call him again. Repeat this until maybe on the fourth or fifth occasion that you call him, when he believes there is no point to getting up and coming all the way over to you just so you can tell him he's cool and that he may resume his pursuits.
Just as soon as he refuses your trivial request to come to you, follow the procedure to make him come.
Remember: any time that your dog does not respond the first time you ask him to come, regard this as a major behavioral problem and take the appropriate action to remedy the situation (reinstall the come command as a conditioned reflex during the FPLX).
So now we must try again to set up the situation whereby your dog refuses to perform a request.
Once again, repeat your (1st request) "dog's name, come, good boy." If he does not spin immediately to respond, instantly repeat the phrase with the accompanying sound:
*(upper case denotes command with sound, not shouting. All commands much be given in an even tempered tone): your (2nd request) "dog's name, COME, good boy," this time, using the can, by giving it one brief, hard, downward shake (not a rattle), and only EXACTLY on the "key" or "cue" word, in this example, COME.
Let the sound from the can emphasize your "key" or "cue" word, not your voice. Your voice must always be used in a calm, even-tempered, never commanding or authoritative tone.
If any response at all (even an obvious attempt to run away) occurs, instant praise, once again, is required. For this example, let's say your dog chose to continue away from you.
Immediately repeat your phrase without the accompanying sound and your (3rd request) "dog's name, come, good boy." At this point, you might figure that the dog would not respond.
While this may be so, we do not know for sure. Observation is required. He may have experienced the desired conditioning from even just that one instance of presenting the "key" or "cue" word in association with the sound.
For this reason, we presented our command on this, your third request, without the conditioning sound. If any response occurred, again, even a seemingly negative response like running further away, praise is required.
If you're certain your dog is not responding, on this, his third request, the request will then once again be repeated, for the fourth occasion, this time, while presenting the sound from another direction, preferably beyond your dog, and exactly timed to occur with the "key" or "cue" word.
SOUNDS MUST NEVER BE REPEATED FROM THE SAME POSITION TWICE IN SUCCESSION!
In this instance you will repeat the command phrase, your (4th request) (toss can now) "dog's name, COME, good boy" and toss your can beyond (not at, but beyond) your dog, so as to cause the can to strike the ground exactly on time with the "key" or "cue" word.
This requires just a little bit of skill, because the can must be ejected several moments prior to repeating the command phrase, (because of the distance), so as to strike the ground exactly at the same time as our "key" or "cue" word and the entire sequence must occur as quickly as possible, *and, the can must be carefully tossed so as not to sound accidentally from your hand while being ejected and you must avoid causing the can to tumble through the air causing inappropriately timed sounds.
Yes, I agree, things sounded simple enough until all of this first and third without sound, and second and fourth with sound stuff. Relax, we'll try this again, in "real time," and then you may try to practiceon your own for a few minutes.
Let's run through the command sequence as if your dog were not cooperating. We'll use UPPER CASE to denote command accompanied with sound.
Practice this while not in the presence of your dogs. Read it aloud, and actually using the cans. Set a target about 10 feet away to practice your throw on the fourth command. Start now: take a deep breath, hold it, read aloud: "dog's name, come, good boy"- (next create sound on COME) "dog's name, COME, good boy"-(repeat quickly) "dog's name, come, good, boy"-(toss can now) "dog's name, COME, good boy." Breathe!
See? It's easier than it sounded the first time. Try this until you've got the timing down so the "key" or "cue" words and sounds are in sync.
If any response occurs, instant, spontaneous, constant praise must follow, until your dog is close enough to pat. Remember, even begging and pleading are O.K., as long as you do not move toward him and you do not repeat the command.
Repeating commands will cause the dog to cause you to continue repeating commands.
But are we not repeating the command in the exercise? Yes, we do repeat the command, but never without punctuating the command on its first repetition, which will fix that command into the reflex system. As soon as the conditioned reflex is installed, the command may not be ever needed more than once.
That's it! And it happens that fast!
Over some period of time the conditioning may deteriorate for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, calling your dog in a more casual manner might deteriorate the conditioning.
Not following through with enforcing, or not properly reinforcing correct performance of the command could deteriorate the conditioned reflex.
The most common reason would likely be repeating commands. Dogs thrive on the extra attention, and will keep you entertained for countless hours, or for as long as you will repeat commands.
Once any command is issued, it must be completed.
We have a system that will guide your dog's correct performance, or provide you with a strategic withdrawal.
You are the one in charge; so therefore, you may change your mind, as you so desire. We'll show you how to insure that you come out looking smarter than your dog.
The first time your dog fails to respond properly to the "recall" or "come " command, regard that as a major behavioral problem.
Make the effort to correctly reinforce the command during the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise," explained in detail later on.
Of course, in our last example here, the plan was to perform the command sequence as quickly as possible, with no pauses, just as though your dog were not responding and you were correctly operating the sounds.
Well, let's continue, and presume that our dog did not respond after the fourth request. At this point, your job is to turn and walk determinedly away without looking back, speaking continuously and praising him without breaking your stride, without looking back, until you can pat him.
You may ask, "What leads you to believe Rover is going to suddenly respond by following us when we turn and walk away?" Easy! The training in our next two exercises is going to instill the concept in one's mind.
First comes the "Hot and Cold Exercise," which will get the dog settled and paying attention to you. Then, the "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" which is the single most important training technique available.
The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise," combined with the installation of the conditional reflex to the "recall" or "come" command, will give you unimaginable control of your dog.
You could start with a strange dog, and in fifteen minutes of work, have him responding just as though you've been "good buddies" for a "dog's age!"
Once again, things seem simple enough, so we'll throw in a little extra. Initially, just getting Rover to come in response to the "recall" command, close enough to be able to pat him, would seem to be sufficient.
While that may be good enough for most people, the Wits' End Training Method promises and requires strict and exacting discipline. For now, in this initial phase of training, it would be counter productive to be any more exacting than to just be satisfied with a brief pat.
However, after this initial phase of training is complete
(maybe just one session of work, but do follow directions, and do this four times), you will be expected to cause your dog to sit directly in front of you to "finish" the "recall" or "come" exercise.
This will be extremely important in the "big picture." But, for now, we do not need to be so exact. The hard part is done!
3 The "Hot And Cold" Exercise
Remember the children's game in which an object is selected, and the one who is "it" is directed to find same based on directions of "hot or cold" to indicate proximity to the object? We are going to do the same with your dog's attention, with you being the selected object.
This "Hot and Cold" exercise takes about two minutes to perform but MAY require thirty minutes for EXXXTREMELY anXXXIHOWES untrusting / fearful critters. Done properly, this exercise will have the effect of shutting off his attention to anything other than you.
This practice should be used any time your critter becomes distracted or is not keeping his attention focused on you.
Our objective is to cause your dog always to have one ear and one eye focused on you. If this is done correctly, your dog will end up directly in front of you, relaxed, and waiting for your next idea.
To begin, ask your dog if he "wants to go to work," tell him "good boy," as you show him your lead and lean back away from him. This will help command his attention up and toward you, without focusing on putting on the lead.
We want to be sure not to give the impression that we're assaulting him with the lead! Bend at the knees, keeping your back straight as you affix your lead to his collar, gently talking, but not physically touching any more than necessary. Tell him he's a good boy as you head out the door.
As soon as you have cleared the area in front of your door, come to a halt. As your dog moves forward and back, around and in front of you, allow your lead to flow smoothly through your hands, the free hand reaching out to collect your lead at its mid point, and place it in the palm with the handle to keep it out from under your dog's feet as he moves in towards you, playing it out as he moves away, collecting it as he returns.
Just get used to the feeling of allowing your lead to flow through your hands, collecting it again and allow it to feed out as your dog moves. Be sure not to pull or allow tension on the collar.
Do not lean toward your dog or move toward him, as this will cause the opposite effect, consequently subordinating ourselves and subverting our efforts.
If your dog looks toward you, you'll tell him he's a good boy. Always, every time, no exceptions ever, no matter what, when, or where, if your dog looks toward you, even a brief momentary glance out of the corner of his eye, that requires praise.
This rule will never vary. *If necessary maybe squatting down will bring him in close, but we don't want to call or force him in.
After just two or three minutes the dog should be settled and paying attention to you with one eye and one ear and his tail gently swaying. If this exercise requires more time, that's fine too.
Spend twenty or thirty minutes in one spot, just calming the dog and gaining his trust and commanding his attention through the intermittent praise.
4 The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" (May Be Done Solo)
Before starting the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, you should perform the "Hot and Cold" exercise to get your dog's attention focused on you.
Because of its simplicity, the "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" is often discounted or ignored. By the way, you don't need your entire family to do this exercise. You may do it with some family members or even by yourself.
The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" is equally important as the "recall" or "come" command. It is the basis for your total relationship with your dog, your success or failure as a team, but its subtlety is decieving.
It requires about fifteen minutes to perform on the first occasion, about twelve minutes for the second occasion, about eight minutes on the third occasion and no more than six to eight minutes on successive occasions.
This exercise is best done with the entire family on four successive occasions, preferably in four different locations. (The ideal scenario would be to perform the "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" four times at the first location, four times at the second location, four times at the third location, and four times at the fourth location).
Thereafter, this exercise should be used as needed, that is, any time your dog seems not to pay close attention to you, or seems easily distracted, or any time any behavior problems arise.
It is a good practice to do on a weekly basis (just once, at one location is fine) after the initial series, later, on a monthly basis, kind of like a "tune up."
If you've noticed a pattern developing here, you're right: Dogs learn on the basis of four properly performed repetitions. These applications should be performed in four different locations or training situations.
You are going to be walking with all of the immediate members of your family and your dog, in a large square.
What you will need is an area large enough to encompass a twenty-foot square area, including additional space to provide clearance for the length of your twenty-foot lead. In other words, you will need a 60'x60' area.
If it is impossible to find such a large area, you could get by with less space. Once again, although training should not be conducted in your dog's own back yard, this exercise and "COME" ARE exceptions to the rule, but not for the initial or regular practice.
Do this in your yard after the dog understands the principles in neutral territory. Insofar as it is necessary to do these exercises in his back yard, you will find it counterproductive if over used.
If you are with the members of your family, gather in a close-knit group, and proceed to walk as one unit from your starting point, at the rate of about one step per second, forward, for the distance of
20 feet.
Do not look at your dog. If he moves along with you, tell him he's a good boy. Everybody must speak, all together any time he looks up at you, that requires praise.
If he does not follow the group, that's fine. Every time he comes toward the family, praise him. If he wanders off, that's fine too. As he returns to you, praise. Turn left at your first 20-foot mark, and proceed slowly on the second leg of this square.
Each time he looks up at you, praise. If he wanders, that's fine; do not speak to him unless he is returning toward the family pack.
Notice where the turns are and try to find each corner of this square as you continue walking slowly to your next corner and turn left again.
As you proceed around this imaginary square, simply praise him as he returns to the family pack and ignore him as he wanders away.
You will notice that as you continue around this square, your dog will begin to stay closer to the family pack.
On about your fourth trip around the square, your dog should be fairly comfortable maintaining a close proximity to the group.
When this is so, simply come to a halt at any corner of our square. Face each other, and speak amongst yourselves.
Your dog should be ignored, unless he looks directly up at the family, for which praise is required. If he comes close enough, a pat would be in order.
Remain at this corner, chatting casually, until our subject dog joins the group, but for no longer than two minutes.
When Rover settles next to the family, give him just another moment or two to get nice and comfortable. Now, altogether and on cue, without telegraphing this to our subject dog, move forward all together, slowly toward your next corner.
As soon as your dog starts to get up to follow, everyone must sound off with praise, and everyone must stop praising just as soon as your dog's attention wanders, or he moves away toward the end of his 20-foot lead.
As before, come to a halt at your next corner, face each other and converse casually amongst yourselves until your dog joins the group, settles, or gets comfortable, and then as before, move forward toward the next corner as a group.
Repeat this at each corner. That's it!
Now if you'd like, you can get a jump on the advanced work in Part 2 by simply walking as a group to the opposite corner of the square taking four steps forwards, turn left for two steps, turn right and continue four steps, turn left for two, right for four, and finish up with a 180 degree turn to your left, and return to the opposite corner in the same manner, completing that with a 180 turn to the right.
Now, the reason we covered the "recall" or "come" command at the very beginning, is because during the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise," you will likely have several opportunitiesto install the come command as a conditional reflex.
At some point during this "Family Pack Leadership Exercise", I expect your dog will go all the way off to the end of his 20-foot lead and not care to follow the family or, he may become distracted looking around at whatever might interest him.
If he gets involved smelling a spot, or looking at something and your pack has moved to the point where your lead is becoming taut, stop.
Do not pull.
Turn facing your dog and use the cans to condition him to "come" at this time. One member of the family should be responsible for working the command, but every member should participate with the praise as your dog is coming in on the "recall."
Also, if it is necessary to back up to help to coax him to come to you, the entire family should also participate in backing up.
If these directions have been followed properly, the obvious difference in your dog's demeanor and attitude will be stunning.
5 Practicing The "Recall" or "Come" Command
After completing the pre-requisite "Family Pack Leadership Exercise", any area is good to complete training to install the come command as a conditional reflex.
Note: to ensure that the "recall" or "come" command is properly installed, ideally you should achieve four perfect recalls on lead during each training session, in four different locations.
It is vital to achieve this before practicing the "recall" or "come" command off lead.
The "recall" or "come" command may be practiced on lead anywhere, off lead in a fenced area, or inside the house, provided there are no hiding places that your dog may get into or under....
Let's not defeat ourselves by attempting to do something prematurely-that is, not properly installing the command prior to attempting it in a more difficult situation, or a command we know he is going to resist, without having done all of the basics, prior to attempting to tempt fate!
If you know your dog has never come to you after he has gone under the couch to hide, don't try calling him out from under there, or even in that room, because you know that as soon as you call him he's going to try to escape to the security of where you can't get him, until you have accomplished the preliminaries and you know he is properly conditioned in at least four other places.
Let's say we're dealing with a real sharp dog, one that knows just how to manipulate each of the family, one against the other, each in turn.
You know the kind I'm talking about, the one who's just "so cute," he takes advantage of any opportunity to get his way, usually ending with a fight between family members. Got one like that? Just because we're gentle and humane, does not mean we can't be vindictive.
Let's get ready to burst his bubble!
Divide yourselves into two groups, equally divided between those whom he favors. Each group will have one can, and one person responsible for operating the manipulation of the sound cues.
Of course, the person in command will change, as each individual takes his or her turn. Remember, it is not necessary to have the person responsible for issuing the command also responsible for creating the sounds, unless they are proficient at this technique.
Using the 20-foot lead, space your two groups 20 feet apart. Observe carefully to determine which group should issue the "recall" or "come" command, based upon whomever he is least attentive towards being the group to ask him to come.
Issue the requests to come as previously described. In the event we need to pursue this command to its fourth request, the second group will create the sound on the fourth occasion and one and all, moving together will continue towards the group issuing the command and lead the dog as a group toward the individual issuing the command, until completed upon being petted.
Spend a few moments socializing among you, as a subterfuge, and then drift apart to repeat this exercise as necessary.
This will have the effect of putting your dog at the bottom of the ladder of the pecking order of importance, and everyone else above, which will take away his sense of being a peer, or equal in importance, to any member of your family.
Once again, as always, successfully repeat this exercise at least four times with each individual and do so in four different places. If these exercises are done properly, it should feel like you've got a new dog at home, and he'd feel better fast, knowing that everyone in his family is an appropriate leader.
6 Teach Any Command Through Conditional Reflex
Any command may be taught in the same manner as you have just learned. Don't use this technique indiscriminately. We can work several commands at once, but right now while everyone is just getting familiar with this new approach and your dog is still "upside-down" with the changes he's going through, don't rush.
If your dog is used to being forced and punished, it's likely to take a few sessions for him to believe you've really changed your approach. Dogs who aren't used to being treated gently are not comfortable offering trust till you've proven your intent. One lapse of judgement or correction will restimulate all the previous mishandling and impede your progress.
Here is an example of a commonly desired command that you will find useful. This example is meant to more thoroughly show you the concept.
Any command, for any reason, in any circumstances, can be substituted. But remember, we do not want your dog to "do things," we want him to learn things.
Conditional reflex MAKES things happen, without understanding. Use it sparingly, especially at the beginning.
Let's say you want your pet to go in the other room. You might select the phrase, "go in the other room, good boy." You might select the word room as your "key" or "cue" word.
Present your command in the described manner and continue on to your fourth request, and present your sound appropriately beyond your dog. At this, move forward while continuing to praise him as you go into the ordered room and thoroughly praise and pat him upon completion.
But what if he did not follow through? Defer to your "come" command, to which you know he has been properly conditioned. Upon completing the "come" command, you should find him there, in the other room, with yourself.
Now, as you return to where you were when you first issued your command to "go in the other room good boy," and you should find your dog satisfactorily waiting in the other room.
Don't be surprised if you find him right there with you, in your original places. What went wrong?
Well, if he negotiated his way into the other room, even if only to follow you on your fourth request, did he not perform the original command?
Of course he did, but he immediately broke it when you left that room.
What may be done when your dog breaks his command? Also, what may be done when your dog does a behavior you would rather he not do?
7 Use Sound To Break Bad Behavior!
The fastest, easiest and most effective approach is to recreate the undesired situation in a controlled setting, and correctly use sound distractions with praise to erase the misbehavior.
*Please note: any sound may be used as long as it is variable in direction, that's why we use the cans with pennies. The sound doesn't have to be loud, only noticeable and instantly followed by prolonged, exuberant non physical praise.
The sound must be brief and you should be able to present it from different directions on each consecutive instance. Snapping fingers from opposite directions (if you're close to the dog), one time to the left or right or behind or in front, next time opposite, followed by praise, will work fine.
You may also use keys or whatever else comes to mind, only remember that the dog should take notice of the sound, not be intimidated by it.
If the dog doesn't "APPEAR" to notice the sound, just follow through as though he did, cause he did if you created it and he'll quickly become conditioned if you simply follow the technique. You're not going to SEE a lot of what we're working with, just follow the techniques regardless of what your intuition sez.
Dogs can learn or unlearn almost anything in four properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme, these four repetitions should be performed in four different places, or with different people, dogs, or whatever the "props" involved may be.
Understanding how dogs think, learn, and process information is a stretch of the imagination for most of us. It is obvious that animals know more about psychology than we do.
They think, have a sense of humor, communicate, tease, lie, steal, etc., just like any one else. But they don't think like humans.
Dogs are limited to thinking like dogs. It's your responsibility to think things out from their perspective and try to use good judgment.
Be consistent. Dogs get confused if you're not consistent.
Now that you are getting familiar with teaching a command through conditional reflex, you can use similar techniques to stop or extinguish any behavior whatsoever.
Using the cans *(or other source of sound so long as it is brief and so long as it can be presented from opposite directions [in front/behind, left/ right]), on each consecutive instance, are all that you need to do to extinguish any behavior.
Simply create the sound and follow through with praise! It's that simple. Any behavior can be stopped or extinguished, simply by creating a sound, and praising immediately.
Following the technique for a few successive repetitions will quickly extinguish the behavior, not just interrupt it every time it keeps happening.
We're looking for total 100% perfect behavior.
The secret is to ALLOW the dog to THINK of begining the undesired behavior again and simply present the sound from the opposite direction and follow through with praise.
Of course you have to understand how your dog thinks and learns in order to achieve this successfully.
Each time you create a sound to stop or extinguish a behavior, you must praise him INSTANTLY and continue for as long as he refrains from continuing such behavior
(at least until he no longer thinks about that instance, usually ten or fifteen seconds) and be prepared to create your sound distraction and praise as soon as the behavior begins again.
This is the sticking point with so many trainers. "HOWE COME should I praise this critter if he's not even doing what I want?"
Remember, dogs do not think in human terms.
Most behavioral problems are simply a failure to communicate clearly. This is a scientific conditioning technique and it cannot fail if you use the techniques accordingly.
*Of course, you could continue correcting your dog forever, as most trainers do. We do not understand HOWE COME a trained dog needs "corrections".
If he were trained, that should be the end of the matter. This would imply that if a trained dog makes a mistake, that this mistake is probably not an accident, but rather, a failure of the training methods used, not a challenge to your authority.
Perhaps this is why so many trainers seem to enjoy correcting their dogs forever. I suppose the real reason it is so difficult for us to share the Wits' End Training Method with other pet professionals is because we take all the satisfaction out of "dealing with" an obstreperous dog.
The problem is that corrections do not teach new behavior no more than can they EXTINGUISH undesired behaviors. Our technique actually deletes errors in your dog's thinking. It takes only a few moments to permanently cancel or delete a behavior.
Correcting a behavior, rather than deleting it, takes the entire lifetime of your dog. Make your choice, to solve behavioral problems permanently in a few moments, or get the dubious satisfaction of correcting your dog's behavioral problems each time they occur, for the entire life of your dog.
When you get tired of correcting, whining, nagging, and arguing, start reading this manual again, follow the directions, and change your values.
Change is difficult.
So let's go back to the prior example using the "other room" command. As you prepare to exit the room after having shown him the meaning of your request, create a sound just before your dog reaches the exit or doorway.
As always, instantly praise him. Continue to exit the room yourself, and if he continues to try to exit, create the sound behind him and praise again.
If he successfully exits the room against your command, simply repeat the original command "go in the other room good boy." Of course, this will be treated as a new request, to be performed according to the progression of events as required.
In other words, you must pay attention to the last instance in which sound was used, and try to insure that in the next instance, the sound comes from the appropriate source even from day in to day out, one day to the next, never vary the routine.
In other words, if your dog went into the "other room" on his first request without sound, perhaps strictly as a coincidence, then, after you've tried to correct him from leaving, the next instance would require the application of sound with your next request, which in actuality, would be his second request to "go in the other room good boy."
To review:
First request, "Go in the other room, good boy." Second request, "Go in the other ROOM good boy" Third request, "Go in the other room, good boy"
Let's say he accomplished the request properly. When he violates the command, your next request to send him back there would be, in actuality, his fourth request, requiring sound on this command.
If you are not thoroughly confused at this point, I'm surprised. Here's the rest of the secret: The sequence of events never starts over again, but always continues from the last instance in which the sound was used.
It is imperative to try to remember the last occasion in which your dog was given a command. For example, let's say he's out in the back yard.
You call him to come in, and he fails to respond. So you reach for the can, and repeat your request accompanied with one hard downward shake to create sound. Naturally, your dog will respond on this occasion.
Next time that he is out in the yard-even if it's the next day-and he fails to respond when you ask him to come in, you've got to try to remember when it was, that you last needed to re-enforce the command, using sound.
So you might stop for a moment to think, "Gee, wasn't it just last night, that I asked him to come inside and failing that, needed to create the sound on my second request for him to come in?"
Did the sound come from my hand, or did the can need to be tossed beyond him?
Follow through thinking this out and make the right decision. If you can't remember the last instance, that's O.K. Simply do your best and set yourself an appointment to do the "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" when you plan to re-install the conditional reflex to "come." It'll take about ten minutes.
7A. Other Examples of Using Sound to Correct "Bad Behavior"
As stated earlier, any sound, accompanied by praise, is sufficient. For example: let's say your dog walks right over to you while you're eating dinner and expects to help himself, without permission, to your food.
If you were to snap your fingers in front of his face and say "good boy, nice dog, what a good dog you are," you'd feel pretty much like an idiot, until he opened his mouth to grab your food, at which point you'd reach around behind him and snap your fingers again, following through with lavish praise.
If your timing and tone of voice were correct, he would have stopped, but yet still be thinking of taking your food without permission.
That's what we WANT.
So we expect him to try again to get your food. As he leans his big wet nose over your plate, and again you were to snap your fingers in front of his nose and following the procedure, using lavish praise for this horrible mistake, you'll find him leaning back a little, thinking, thinking, thinking, thinking, and thinking (and find yourself praising, praising, and praising), praising IN ADVANCE of his impending mistake.
Now, he's going to look at your food, then look up at you, then back at the food. Inasmuch as it goes against everything you've ever been lead to believe, you must praise this thought, this learning plateau. You can learn to overcome your natural instincts.
It's not easy being human.
Now we fully expect him to try once again to get your food. At the moment he begins to make his move, if you were to reach around behind him and snap your fingers and speak praises, this should be the last time you need address this behavior, possibly for the rest of your life, or until you change your location.
Pick up your plate and move to another chair and your loving pet will try again to steal your food. Now, begin the procedure again, taking it to its fourth properly performed repetition.
Now, he'll probably never try to steal your food as long as you sit at either of the two positions at your table that he has been conditioned to.
Taking this example to a third seat at the table, and then to a fourth seat at the table will permenantly break this behavior. That is, until someone else sits there with their food in front of them.
The point is that we will need four people or plate settings at this table to permanently eradicate this behavior. O.K.?
How about if we rearrange the dining room, and move the table to another location? If you figure this to be a "new environment," you've begun to understand how your dog figures it to be.
Now, you know what to do, and how to do it.
NHOWE all you gotta do is understand HOWE COME you're DOIN IT!!!
To review, Lauren, a tech writer offers this:
Everything Jerry does is positive reinforcement. In fact, a lot of it is completely counter-intuitive (eg, praise the dog even when he's doing the WRONG thing)... but for some bizarre reason, it works.... His methods *don't* quite match up with what Cesar does... but... I figure, if you're willing to give it a try, the *worst* that could happen would be the dog gets a lot of extra praise and there's no effect whatsoever :-).
The way Jerry's training works, *any* problem is sorted out after four iterations of extinguishing the behaviour. He says
*anybody* can do it, *every* time, because if a method doesn't work 100% of the time, for everybody, it's not a good method.
Here's *my* quick summary of it all....
Basically, Jerry's method is based on a foundation of:
a) Focusing the dog's attention on you (the Hot and Cold exercise)
b) Establishing yourself as pack leader (the Family Pack Leadership exercise) - Note that he does this by dominating *mentally*, never by dominating *physically* (no alph rolls, no leash corrections)
c) Praising EVERYTHING the dog does - desired or undesired !!!
This is the weird part !! because you are praising the dog for *thinking* and *deciding* (even if he decided something you didn't want him to do). This part is so counter-intuitive, that a lot of people just won't even try this method of training, because they "know" it couldn't possibly work.
You *never* show the dog displeasure, raise your tone, emphasize a word strongly, sigh in disgust, *nothing* negative (a hard habit for a human being to break), EVER. Everything is completely calm and matter of fact.
All the dog ever hears is what a good dog he is, and you're
*telling* him what a great dog he is, even when he's doing the behaviour you DON'T want him to do (!). As I said, this makes so little sense to human beings that a lot of people won't even *try* this method of training a dog.
d) You *never* put *any* pressure on, or pull on, the dog's collar. the lead is *always* kept loose. NO corrections are done by pulling on the collar (a hard habit for a human being to break).
e) Every behaviour can be created, or extinguished, with only four repetitions of the training session (another wildly counter- intuitive concept).
f) Interrupting and eliminating bad behaviours from the dog's repertoire is done by using sound distractions to condition the dog *not* to do certain things (or, rather TO do certain OTHER things)....
Part (f), the sound distraction part, always consists of an unvarying sequence of saying the exact same thing, four times in a row (the only new thing being the insertion of the command keyword <sit, down, come, whatever>) into the sequence, and with no tonal emphasis on the words at all... and you say all four sequences in a row, as if they were one long monotone word... Two of the verbal iterations are accompanied by a sound <pennies rattling in a can> and two aren't. It's the timing of the sound to come at the same time as the keyword, that is critical...
Iteration 1: Doggy-<keyword>-good-boy. (and he may have NO clue what "<keyword>" means)... immediately followed by: Iteration 2: Doggy-<keyword> <shake can with pennies on the word "<keyword>"> - good-boy.... immediately followed by: Iteration 3: Doggy-<keyword>- good-boy.... immediately followed by:Iteration 4: <toss can with pennies so that *just* as you say the <keyword>, the can hits the ground, somewhere on the far side of the dog>: Doggy-<keyword> <can lands as you say the word "<keyword>"> - good-boy.
So, it's really: Take a deep reath: Doggy-keyword-good-boy- Doggy-[keyword/NEARBY-SOUND]-good-boy-Doggy-keyword-good-boy- Doggyy-[keyword/FAR-SOUND]-good-boy,
The important part is that the sound has to come from two different locations, and it has to occur precisely when the keyword is said.
I, personally, have the most trouble with timing the toss so that the far-away can lands precisely on the keyword.
Jerry explains how to communicate to the dog what "<keyword>" means, with your own actions. Initially, the behaviours are based on the dog's motion (coming, going), and the foundation that was established in the first two exercises, and then he focuses on extinguishing undesirable behaviours (barking, jumping, aggression, slamming against fences, bolting through doors). Establishing desired behaviours like "sit" and "heel" takes up a lot of the third file.
I'm warning you right up front that Jerry's method seems COMPLETELY counter-intuitive. Not just counter-intuitive, it seems completely stupid, impossible, unlikely, ridiculous, and even *uncomfortable* (for you, the human being) to do.
You reward the dog when he hasn't seemed to do *anything* yet.
(boy, do you feel stupid! "This can't work!" ... but it does.)
You reward the dog when he's very pointedly doing something you DON'T want.... (keep that smile on your face, in your tone, and in your body language! very difficult! "Why am I rewarding him when he's disobeying or being bad?" Jerry explains why !! )
It's the weirdest thing in the world, and yet it seems to work anyway.
I know you don't have tons of time, and it is, of course better to read the original author's version than a summary! But, here's a quick summary of the exercises I'm hoping you'll think are worth trying...
The "Hot and Cold" exercise:
- Done in four different sessions on the first day.
- Takes about 2-3 minutes. You praise the dog every time he comes towards you, or even looks at you, even out of the corner of his eyes. Very shortly, he's hovering close to you and keeping at least one eye on you. Now he's paying attention.
The "Pack Family Leadership" exericise:
- Done in four different sessions on the first day. The first session takes about 15 minutes the first time, the second session that day takes about 12 minutes, 8 minutes for the third session,
6 minutes for the fourth session. You do it in a 60' x 60' foot square (you'll be using a 20' x 20' section, the rest is for the dog's 20 foot leash to play out, if he wants to roam).
Ideally each of the four sessions is done in four different physical locations. Do this weekly for the first month, then monthly as a "tune up" thereafter. What you do is, preferably the entire family
(although it can be done by just one person) marches very slowly
(one step per second) around the square, stopping at the corners, talking only to each other, never pulling the dog along with them, never looking at the dog. If he comes, or looks at the group, he gets praised. If he looks away, or walks away, he hears nothing.
That's it!
Pretty soon, he's hovering around his "pack", seeking attention.
Now you have the foundation to build on.
You build on the "Pack Family Leadership" exercise, to get a come/ recall, by adding in the four iterations plus sound distractions, as per Jerry's instructions.
After that, any undesired behaviour is interrupted with brief variably alternating sound distractions INSTANTLY followed by prolonged NON PHYSICAL praise (if it takes as many as four), and praise in advance as per his instructions, and any new desired behaviour is taught using the four iterations plus sound distractions, as per Jerry's instructions.
He specifically addresses dogs who bark too much/fling themselves at windows/throw themselves at the door/etc. and bolting out the front door, dogs who throw themselves against fences, people- aggressive dogs, etc., and more.
Well, hope that didn't drown you with information....
Anyway, I hope you get a chance to read through it, and are willing to give it a try. It takes less time than correcting the dog over and over for the rest of his life, and it's more fun all the way around for everybody.
Thanks,
-Lauren
A student called one day because although things were moving along well with her dog, the dog continued to jump up on the couch. When asked how does she address the problem, she stated hat she reaches over for one of the cans, gives it a shake and praises, and indeed, the dog gets off the couch, but gets back on again shortly thereafter.
"How do you deal with that?" I asked.
"I reach for the cans and give it another shake and as always, she gets right off, but gets back on it again shortly thereafter."
"Don't you remember that the sound must ALWAYS come from another direction?" I asked.
"Oh yes, now I remember. Creating the sound will not be effective without alternating the source or direction it comes from. Sorry to bother you about that," she said.
"Before you go, tell me, did you continue to do the "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" at three other locations, and finish reading the manual?" I asked.
7B. Unacceptable Demonstrations of Dominance
Your dog needs to control totally, or to be controlled totally. In the big scheme of things, barring any unusual tendencies, outward appearances should look and feel like you are expressing proper control.
Even in the best of situations, most of us try to get as much as we think we can get, or at least as much as we feel we deserve. For the most part, your dog doesn't want to get your job, your possessions, or any thing else, except you.
All things being equal, you are the ultimate challenge. You might be considered kind of like a doggy version of Mt. Everest.
When climbing a mountain, one rule of thumb is to obtain a good purchase before aiming for another handhold or foothold. Just about every interaction with your dog might be considered a purchase on your summit. We don't want him to fall, but there's no room at the top.
You might look at the intricacies of the relationship with your dog sort of being like a chess game. Every interaction is a strategic assault that has to be analyzed, assessed, and at some point countered.
Most canine interactions center on control issues. These power plays go on all the time and usually take place without us even being aware that we are the pawn in a power play.
Although most of these ploys are harmless and laughable, they do add up and scores are kept.
You don't have to play well, but like it or not, you're in the game. Being consistent means you get extra points.
Let's look at an example of how we innocently participate and the ramifications that occur as a result.
Your dog jumps up on your couch. You look over and tell him to get off. Being a good dog he jumps right off, and resumes his appropriate spot.
Being a dog, he's going to try again. So he does. And, doing your best, you remind him that you had just asked him not to do that. But, he ignores you, and you insist. So he goes.
But (being a dog) he tries again, and you (being human) have got other things to do. Besides, he's just been groomed and you're getting another couch soon and you've decided to put this couch in a good spot so can have it and you're tired, and it really doesn't matter.
So you ignore him.
This One Instance Of Inconsistency Just Fractured His Entire Concept Of The Infrastructure Of Your Home And your and His Roles In It.
If you cannot make up your mind as to what is important, then he needs to make decisions so as to insure stability in his den.
7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance
How about every time your dog steps on your feet? Don't you think your dog knows where each of his feet are, and where they belong?
Or, how about his tail? Does he accidentally smack you as he goes by? Maybe he clears your coffee table as he moves past?
Certainly you can't expect your dog to understand that this long, unwieldy appendage can rearrange your knick-knacks or whatever.
"Maybe it's best to keep him out of those areas. Besides, he's like a bull in a china shop."
We don't need to put up with these sorts of "unavoidable" impositions on our lives or property.
You may say, "But surely there's no way to correct such innocent impositions."
If you believe that, then you've wasted your time reading this manual. Either start over again, or reexamine your thinking. Let's look at how you might remedy these situations. Remember, your dog is going to model your behavior and act in kind.
You set the standard for good behaviors by demonstration.
7D. How To Correct Mouthing
Every puppy goes through a mouthing stage. It's usually out grown by the end of teething. That means he needs to chew something to cut new teeth.
Provide appropriate items to be chewed. Everything else is not to be touched. Establish appropriate mouth behavior right from first contact. There's no excuse for being abused by your dogs teeth until he's finished teething.
*Some trainers teach "bite inhibition." That's almost the right idea.
First, mouthing is a bonding activity, so we don't want to discourage it antagonistically. Appropriate mouthing activity is up to you to determine. Some of us don't like dog's mouths on us at all. Other's don't mind and even enjoy it.
I always play with my dog's mouths, and I don't mind gentle mouthing. Whatever you attitude, just realize that others are going to be mouthed or not in the same manner as you accept.
There's no such thing as being too young or too old to learn any behavior, within the physical limits of his body.
His brain is ready to be programmed to learn everything he will ever need to know by the age of 18 days old. Training your dog is not much different than creating a filing system om our computer.
Just as you address each page that appears on your screen, each behavior your dog performs should be dealt with before moving on to something else. Of course, if you are not prepared to cope with a behavior because of, perhaps time restrictions, make note of that behavior and set and appointed time to recreate the situation and address it totally.
The first instance your dog puts his mouth on you inappropriately is to be regarded as a problem. Each time you permit any inappropriate behavior to continue without being addressed, you are setting the precedent for more of the same behavior.
TECHNIQUE:
Subtle. Just be subtle. Whenever you have a situation that needs immediate response, be very careful to not let your dog know you are either upset or going to "correct" him or he'll quickly learn TO DO that behavior to command
100% of your undivided attention.
Casual. Just act as casual as you would be as though you were explaining to your best friend how to find a tool in your garage. If your friend couldn't find something, you'd just tell him where to look and expect him to try again. And, if he returned empty handed, you'd probably suggest a better way to find the item or go show him.
Matter of factly. Just as matter of factly as you would if your friend were to return without the desired item once again. You'd calmly and matter of factly get together and show him how to get it.
No big deal.
When your dog first opens his mouth toward you, or any inappropriate matter, just create a sound and praise for five to fifteen seconds. If he refrains from that behavior, continue to praise intermittently till he's occupied thinking of something else.
If he continues with the misbehavior repeat the sound distraction from another direction followed by prolonged, non physical praise, as always.
If he continues, use the command " 'Out!,' good boy, nice dog..." as you gently remove his teeth from the object, immediately releasing his mouth and praising all at the same time.
Once again, it is necessary to allow the behavior to resume. As he thinks once again to open his mouth toward an inappropriate item, repeat the above procedure.
Understand that this process will require four properly performed repetitions in four different environments or with four different people or objects. Observe carefully for the momentary hesitation on his third attempt, and be careful to praise that moment and continue praising for up to fifteen seconds or until the thought of the behavior stops or resumes and follow the technique.
And don't forget, once you've successfully inhibited the behavior on one such item, you have at least three more occasions for which this behavior must be addressed to permanently delete it from his repertoire of behaviors.
Bear in mind, this technique will need to be repeated in four different places and perhaps with four different items such as people, as well as any item into which he may choose to sink his little teeth.
In other words, if he's chewing on your left hand, addressing this behavior for four consecutive occasions will prevent him chewing ONLY on your left hand and ONLY in that one environment.
To successfully extinguish this behavior, allow the behavior to resume on the other hand, perhaps ENCOURAGE it without seeming to tell him it's O.K. to do it.
Next, he'll probably look forward to chewing on your ankle, and then he'll try the other ankle.
Sure, it sounds like a lot of work and a young puppy may indeed forget a previous lesson, especially if he is in the process of cutting new teeth.
Address each instance with patience and consistency.
Soon you'll see him think of the undesirable behavior and look right at you expecting the praise for having restrained himself.
Remember, any time you show annoyance, you are actually re-enforcing the undesirable behavior.
At some point in your dog's early life, it was likely that his mom had the duty to correct him for something like chewing on her, or for taking her food.
Perhaps you'd think mom dogs would share all their food with their puppies. That may be true most of the time, just as most mom dogs won't get thoroughly upset when their babies chew on her.
But at some point, mom needs to protect herself from her puppies; and furthermore, nature dictates appropriate rules of behavior that she is compelled to enforce.
Mom dogs will bat at their pups sideways with their mouths, while making a guttural sound much like the word "out," kind of like an umpire might be heard to say it. This, if your pup had ever been corrected by his mom, it will have a profound effect on him, much like Pavlov's bell.
In many instances this sound will stop even a strange dog dead in is tracks.
If you fail to praise immediately after creating this sound, you will not have the benefits of it. Remember any sound created to address misbehavior must INSTANTLY be followed by spontaneous, instant, constant, non- physical praise, until the thought process has finished, usually lasting between four to fifteen seconds.
Let him think about the occurrence of these sounds, and their relationship to his behaviors. Allow the behavior to once again begin to ooccur.
As soon as you determine that he's thinking of opening his mouth again, simply create another sound from a different source of origin and resume praise.
Once again, allow the behavior to begin to start and before he can complete the thought to begin the act, create another sound followed with praise.
This time, your dog should understand the reasoning behind the sounds. He's going to think about the behavior and pause while he's thinking about the prior instances of this.
THAT'S A LEARNING PLATEAU.
You must praise this time period that he is processing this information. It's critical that you observe him each time after you have created a sound to interrupt a behavior, to recognize this hesitation period during which he is momentarily refraining from engaging in this behavior so you can PRAISE HIM IN ADVANCE.
Because this problem of mouthing is so common and difficult and serious, here is an artificial aid that can be used to insure success. Please use all of the recommended suggestions first, at least to be fair that your dog has had the opportunity to learn through appropriate methods.
REMEBER, AVERSIVES DO NOT TRAIN DOGS, the behavior will only change to other, seemingly non related bheaviors as anxiety relief mechanisms or TRAINsfer behaviors:
Dr. Sloan created a linament that bears his picture on the label. This is guaranteed to inhibit mouthing or chewing on such items as electric cords, leads, anything.
Be sure to avoid contact with eyes, even long after this preparation has been handled. You'll find it on the shelf in any Rexall store, or ask your pharmacist to order it. "Sloan's liniment." A little goes a long way, so get the small size and be prepared to put up with the not unpleasant but pervasive aroma for a few days.
7E. "No Dogs on Beds?" And Other Problems
If you don't want your dog to use your bed, or to come up on your bed only when invited, you can use a combination of sound distraction/praise and reflex command installation to achieve the goal you desire.
For the purpose of this exercise, let's assume that you want your dog to come up on the bed only when he is invited.
Scenario: your dog jumps on the bed without permission. You should look for the most appropriate "correction" based on the dog's thinking. Let's examine how the dog sees this picture and then we'll be able to understand better how the Wits' End Dog Training Method works.
So... your dog is cruising through the house, he sees the bed and says, "Hey, Mom/Dad isn't using the bed. Maybe I'll jump up and wait for them."
That's not inappropriate, so when you see him just say "Get off the bed good boy" and if necessary repeat the request with the sound cue on the key word "bed." Failing that, a come command would be appropriate.
(This scenario demonstrates HOWE COME it is necessary to install a proper "recall" or "come" command as described earlier in the manual.)
Let's now assume that your dog has obeyed your "come" command, but then tries another leap on the bed. This time, use sound distraction with praise.
If he gets his feet on the bed and refuses to come off after the third time of sound distraction and praise, ask for the "come" command. Use the "come" command as a default for any unfulfilled request, but only after giving all other options first.
This will become more evident as we get into the heeling pattern exercises.
If you are already on the bed and your dog jumps up without permission, use sound distraction and praise (3 times), and then if this is not obeyed, give the command "get off the bed good boy" and follow through.
If necessary, you would get off the bed, call him to come and sit in front of you, return to heel, and release him and get back into bed and wait until he attempts again.
(You can learn more about the "return to heel" exercise in Part II of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)
As Paul B and Lisa taught us, it's not the "say it once" that's important, but SAY IT RIGHT that counts:
"2tails" <wagginta...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:3B4140B6.2D86D0DA@hotmail.com...
Something funny happened the other night....
Late in the evening, I usually relax on our bed for a while before turning in... both of my dogs are nearly always on the bed with me, sleeping.
When my husband comes up to go to bed for the night, usually one of the dogs is on his side of the bed. His usual response is, "Get off, you *G--d----d* dogs! OFF!... Get OFF!"
Both dogs ignore him completely until he pushes them off....
Well, the other night he did this, and as usual there was nary a twitch from either of them. I said casually, "Maybe you should just ask them."
He stared at me for a second. "Pepper, get off the bed... please," he said grudgingly.
Immediately, Pepper got up and hopped off the bed!
Another pause. "Beau, off...good boy." A little more subdued.
Beau got up, stretched, and jumped off the bed too.
I said, "See? You just have to ASK them."
He got into bed, rolled over to go to sleep, and grouched, "Never thought I'd have to plead with a *G--d----d* dog to get offa MY bed!"
But... he hasn't been yelling OFF at the dogs anymore... :-)
-Lisa
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbou...@clear.net.nz) Subject: Good dogs!!! bad dogs.?? Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior Date: 2000/10/21
Something occurred this morning that made me think how we treat our dogs and what expectations we have of them.
Because it was a Saturday we slept in and the dogs eventually jumped up on the bed on my wife's side.
After a brief greeting she very abruptly demanded they get down, "OFF THE BED" she insisted, Sam looked at her perplexed, so she repeated the "order", so Sam tried to lick her face, "GET OFF" she said abruptly.
Sam got down but was unsure what he had done wrong. After a bit they both came over and jumped up on my side, I patted them etc and eventually asked them to get down, "off the bed, good dogs" and they hopped off immediately with no prob's.
Eileen asked me why they obey me and not her so easily. I told her they got down for me because I asked them to, they know the command "off the bed" or "off anything" so there is no need to demand it of them, ask them and they will comply, demand it and they get confused because they think you are annoyed with them but they don't know why so they try to "make amends" which is why Sam licked her.
I have found giving dogs "payment" in advance i.e. "Sam sit goodboy" makes the dogs want to respond, after all, all dogs want to be "good dogs" and if you tell them they are good then they feel an obligation to obey your request.
Telling Sam he's a good dog after he sit's apart from been too late is also a gamble because if he doesn't sit then there's no positive interaction. Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say "good dog" sincerely at the end of the request and I bet you'll find your dog thinking then responding everytime.
"A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies to every aspect of the relationship with your dog," Paul.
Lastly, if you detect that your dog has been on the bed when you weren't present, drop a sound can on the bed casually in his presence while not on the bed, and be silent. Follow the technique as in any other "after the fact" behavior.
7F Housebreaking Technique
HOWEsbreakin is a critters' most normal natural innate instinctive terrortorial imperative. Dogs HOWEsbreak INSTINCTIVELY at four weeks of age.
The more you try to "housebreak" your dog the more anxiety he'll associate with it and you will never get it done. Here are directions that will quickly get you in good shape with her, but you must follow the directions exactly.
Some dogs like to exercise, run around for a few minutes before they relieve themselves. If that's what your dog likes and if that's what you want, by all means do that first but get back into the Technique so you'll have the ability to teach your dog to take his break on command, in two minutes flat.
Part of the solution is to teach the dog to relieve himself on command so that the dog knows the purpose of his trip outside, and that he's got two minutes to relieve himself.
That can be done in a couple of days with a determined effort to supervise and walk the dog when appropriate breaks are necessary, or when the dog shows signs that he needs to go out.
Two minutes of standing in one appropriate break area, without walking or talking (which would will only distract the dog).
The request to "take a break good boy" should be given and if the dog sniffs the ground he should be praised. If he looks around at the birds or other distractions, a second request to "take a break good boy" should be given.
If he sniffs the ground he should be told he's a good boy again, if not, you should elapse the two minutes without walking around and return inside on command, if you're working on obedience.
Don't fixate on the lack of results, we're talking about learning and conditioning a habit, not just the mechanics of the alimentary canal and bladder.
If the dog did not relieve himself, constant SURREPTITIOUS (subtle, unnoticed) supervision will be necessary until the dog again shows signs of needing to relieve himself.
When that happens (it may only be five minutes after having just been out), he should be offered another break, and the same procedure should follow.
You've got to wait till the pup "asks" or shows signs of "discomfort" indicating he needs to relieve himself, or you won't be teaching him to be able to develop the self control to contain himself.
That's HOWE COME many "trainers" can't quickly house train their dogs, they never TRAIN them to be able to "hold it," because they walk them every hour or two because they're WORRIED about the dog making a mistake.
They WORRY more about "allowing an unwanted behavior" than they THINK about TEACHING a desired behavior. Two minutes, and that's it. No more than two requests to relieve himself, and no unnecessary walking while on command to "take a break."
He should be handled on a six foot lead to prevent him from wandering around and getting distracted from his task. Conclude the break with the "back to work" command and have the dog return to heel and sit, before continuing.
THIS IS CRITICAL for more advanced trained dogs, as you'll understand as you read the Wits' End Dog Training Method manual.
IF THE DOG FAILS TO RETURN TO HEEL AND SIT, THAT MEANS HE'S STILL GOT TO RELIEVE HIMSELF.
You can then ask him if he needs to relieve himself again, INSTEAD OF the default for breaking a command as per the Wits' End Dog Training Method manual and he's GONNA KNOW that he's between a rock and a hard place.
He's going to have to make a decision. That's the fundamental principle of the Wits' End Dog Training Method. It's a very powerful technique.
You may not have just a housebreaking problem, but also a behavior problem. Every time you react to your dog's "housebreaking mistake", you are reinforcing it as a negative attention getting device.
That's HOWE COME screaming NO or scolding or doing anything to call your attention to a behavior TEACHES the dog he can pull your chain.
Here's what you need to do to end your dog's ability to pull your chain. Any malbehavior is reinforced when you confront the dog about the behavior.
The problem with housebreaking is, you may not know if the accident was because the dog NEEDED to relieve himself, or maybe he didn't KNOW any better, or if he's SICK, or if he's just stabbing you in the back for scolding him when he tried to steal your toast this morning.
So, don't scold, and we can eliminate ANXIETY as a MAJOR CAUSE of HOWESbreaking accidents.
This becomes a vicious cycle, the punishment or scolding only create more stress and anxiety, which may cause other behavior problems as a replacement, even though confronting the dog may seem to "work" at the moment.
From: AIMEE (countrygirl0...@yahoo.com) Subject: House training and such... Date: 2003-10-08 16:18:56 PST
I've been having a problem with my dog, Axel, relieving himself in the house while I'm away from home.
I've used TPW method's, and yesterday I was out for 12 hours, and Axel didn't have one single "accident".
Today, I had hoped that the results would be just as good - and they were (I was out for 11 hours).
The problem began when, as a puppy, Axel would relieve himself in the house and I would point at the mess and tell him "NO" or "Bad Dog".
That made him afraid to relieve himself in the house or infront of me.
After I got TPW's training manual, I corrected my mishandling of these instances.
When I came home to an "accident", I would simply drop a can near the area and ask Axel "What's that?" Then I would clean it up - with out showing him I was the least bit upset about the mess, and when he looked at the spot I would tell him "Good boy, you're a good dog".
This has been an ongoing problem, and thanks to the Puppy Wizard, we've finally got it taken care of...
Also, Axel LOVES the cat's litter box...He enjoys the "snacks" he can find in there...I followed TPW's methods by alternating sounds and praising him while or before he sticks his nose in it, and today, he's been going into the room with the cat box and barking. That's because he's thinking about getting into the box, but he knows he shouldn't.
Thank you, Jerry, for all you help.
You've been a blessing to all of us.
AIMEE
Obviously, confronting the dog should not have been the recommended method to deal with this, or any behavior problem. If that's the kind of advice your getting from your pet professionals, run from them like HEEL and tell them to call Jerry.
Keeping the lead on your dog while you go about the house is often recommended and might occasionally work. HOWEver, you can't just tie a dog on your belt and expect him to act like a key chain or drag him around like a sack of sand and expect him to set where you leave him.
The only time the dog should be on lead with you is when the dog is properly on command. Otherwise, the restriction will cause stress and further promote other behavior problems.
HOWE can you deal with the dog tied to you if you haven't learned proper lead handling techniques? The pup isn't a sack of sand that can be dragged around and dropped anywhere you put it. Any pulling on the dog's collar will cause out of control behavior.
It's called the opposition reflex, positive thigmotaxis. Now, when accidents happen, how do you deal with this? It's real simple, but you have to not let the dog see your reaction, or he'll still be "rewarded" for the "crime."
Ignore the incident. Walk right past the "mistake."
It may not have been a mistake, and you can't call your physical or verbal attention into the problem without creating more difficulty for yourself.
Prearrange a soda can with six pennies in it, in a convenient central location. The can must be picked up silently and unobtrusively, casually. In the presence of the dog, walk by the "dirty deed."
You should just ask, "what's that?" in a calm, curious tone as you SUBTLY drop the can next to the spot and continue about some other business, without breaking stride or glaring at the dog or saying ANYTHING further.
That's HOWE you'll address any chewing or other damage AFTER THE FACT when you weren't there to extinguish the behavior using distraction and praise. Continue doing something else for a moment (like open the window) and then ask the pup if he'd like to do something like go outside, or anything to get him out of the way so that you may clean the spot and retrieve the can without him observing and hearing you cuss under your breath about the mess and extra work.
When the dog returns to that room with you, he's going to look at the spot, and look back up at you.
You must tell him he is a good boy and sound like you REALLY mean it. This will blow the dog's mind and will render his negative attention getting device that he's using against you, useless.
With a couple examples of this, the dog will begin to search for other ways to command your attention.
Hopefully, he will pick a positive attention getting device. If not, don't worry about it, just address the behavior according to the techniques and gently extinguish each in turn, based on their importance to your lifestyle.
All dogs need attention. What you need to do, is give him that attention prior to the dog getting into trouble.
Any time the dog makes even brief eye contact, or glances out of the corner of his eye at you, that moment requires prolonged (5-15 seconds) of non physical praise unless he's at your side, and then you may pat him if you like.
7G Paper Training.
Many self professed trainers don't believe dogs can or should be paper trained because they don't know HOWE to train the dog NOT to use the papers when the time comes.
That's ABSURD.
Offering an approved area where a 3'x3' square of newspaper on top of a tray will give the pup an area he can feel comfortable about using when he's alone or can't wait to get your attention to take him out. It'll relieve anxiety just knowing it's there for him if necessary.
Most pups are raised on newspaper in the litterbox at the breeders. Smelling the newsprint will inspire him to relieve himself there. Just follow the same instructions as above for training him to relieve himself on command.
7H Peeing Squeaky Toy
Dr. Phil McGraw the T.V. psychologist uses The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's Peeing Squeaky Toy Technique to HOWEstrain children IN WON DAY.
Fill a squeaky toy with water and ASK IT if IT needs to "take a break". Walk it at heel just as you'd do the pup to the newspaper and go through the entire routine, just like he was REAL. THAT'S allelomimetic behavior AT IT'S BEAST!
8 Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover
When your dog presents you with inappropriate displays of "dominance" behavior, many behaviorists, trainers and veterinarians will recommend the Alpha Rollover as a remedy.
WRONG! The Alpha Rollover as it is performed by them is a forceful, negative, punishing experience, administered by ABUSIVE dogs and wolves, to dogs and wolves. Mimicked by humans, we are poorly equipped to fulfill the life and death reality expressed in nature, and this sets both man and beast up for another fall from grace.
Who in their right mind is going to attempt to mimic the behavior of two dogs challenging each other aggressively for dominance in the pack hierarchy?
And, if our human stooge does get the upper hand, what shall he do with the loser? Perhaps sink his teeth into the loser's throat, glareing and growling "No!"? Perhaps he will remain in this posture until his poor, frightened little dog, belly up, flanks exposed, urinating all over, gets big enough to turn the tables?
I've never seen this technique successfully done on a mature Great Dane or St. Bernard, although I have often seen the results in mature dogs that had this practice performed on them when they were little.
Think allelomimetic behavior. You're TEACHING your dog to act aggressively when he runs out of ideas, information and METHOD to deal with his fear.
They are the sorts that have problems only with the alpha in their lives, problems with AUTHORITY.
Others are not considered a challenge worth confronting. Of course, you as a human, would be told to grab the sides of your dogs throat with both hands, force him onto his back, stare into his face, and growl "No!" until he goes limp into submission.
While this is definitely a display of your dominance over him and in a language "he can understand," it is perceived as a challenge, which makes this a very dangerous move that frequently backfires, inviting a sneak attack in retaliation at some point when the dog feels he has the upper hand or is caught by surprise.
In nature, this challenge might go on every season, until the alpha is no longer able to continue this winning streak. Then, the former alpha goes off alone, or to the rear of the pack if he's lucky.
Alpha Rollover
>From watching mother dogs with their puppies, we have learned the correct way to use a different version of the Alpha Rollover as a way to cement the appropriate dominant / submissive relationship between you and your dog.
A mom dog, when allowed to raise her pups for several months, not just six weeks, will be seen standing over a resting puppy and chewing on the side of its neck, up behind the ears with her front teeth (as though flea-biting).
Pups enjoy the affectionate encounter and usually go belly up, relaxed and happy. She is saying, "I'm your elder, and because you respect my authority, I make you feel good." We humans can use the same technique and get the same results.
Approach your dog when he is stretched out on his side, relaxed and content. Do not force him into this position and don't startle him if he's asleep.
Stand over him, bend down, and scratch him behind the ear. If he rolls over offering you his belly, that's all you need to do. Tell him he's a good boy, and walk off before he gets up.
Mission accomplished! No force, no punishment, no negativity. Remember, your dog is going to model your behavior and act in kind.
You set the standard for good behaviors by demonstration.
9 Surrogate Toy Separation AnXXXIHOWESNESS / Bed Time Calming / Fear Of Thunder / Car Sickness / Submissive Urination / Obsessive Compulsive Masturbation / Chronic Urinary Tract / Bladder / Irritable BHOWEL / Obsessive Compulsive Marking / Self Mutilation / Spraying / Defecating Syndrome Technique (Howling, Barking, Whining, Chewing, Messing Stuff Up When You Go Out!)
If all of our techniques and advice have been followed correctly, there is no obvious reason your dog should undergo stress just because he's home alone.
Although most dogs (and people) prefer not to be alone, there's never any excuse why your dog should ever do anything other than what you desire, being his pack leader, nor should he ever BE AFRAID, given he's NEVER LEARNED FEAR.
If he gets nervous just because you are away, that implies something is amiss. The techniques articulated in the obedience section under "Four Step Heeling Pattern Exercise" will instill in him a sense of self-confidence that will override his boogey man.
Separation anxiety has NOTHIN to do with separation, it's got to do with NO CONTROLLER to issue commands and corrections to keep him out of more serious trouble.
That's HOWE COME they chew when the "boss" is away and suffer car sickness, fear of thunder etc.:
"Dan Moore" <mooret...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message news:fS2Lc.114567$OB3.42357@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net.
Tracy,
What worked for me, in just one storm, was to praise the dog after each clap of thunder, telling him he's a Good Dog!
This is an almost 13 year old Doberman, BTW.
The next time it thundered, he did not even react at all--you could not tell it was the same dog as before.
There was more thunder just the other day, and same thing, nada, nothing, zilch, no cowering, whimpering, trying to hide at all, it was that simple.
I got this idea from Jerry Howe, who might seem to be a "wild and crazy" character, but his non- abusive way of handling dogs WORKS.
Wonderfully.
Praise.
It's that simple.
Juanita
-------------
Chris Williams writes:
"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual I do find valuable. Much of it I recognize as what I've always done without thinking of it as "training". New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased the last of Mac's fireworks trauma,"
But we have another secret to share! Try this before laughing. Like your dog, we don't like to the laughed at! Say "good bye" to an article of his, maybe a toy or a bone.
Do this LAST after saying goodbye to him. Make a big fuss over this article, explaining TO IT that you've got to go away and that you expect "it" to behave while your gone.
Put it down, without looking at your dog, and go.
Upon your return, search for and find this article prior to speaking to or in any manner addressing your dog, even if he is jumping up and down to say 'HOWEDY!'. Just ignore him until this procedure is finished. Pick "it" up and exuberantly explain HOWE much you've missed "its" company while you've been absent and how pleased you are that "it" has been SO good while you've been away.
Then you may look at and address your dog, regardless of any damage or destruction he's imposed, and tell him he's been good too EVEN IF HE WASN'T, and that you've missed him.
Ignore any damage he might have caused in your absence.
This is effective and will probably "blow his mind."
The next time you need to go out, he's going to try to emulate the behavior of this inanimate object. professor of ANAL-ytic behavior marshall dermer had GREAT FUN ridiculing this CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL technique till Marilyn REPORTED her success with it, quickly followed by two other Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual Students and a report from a pediatrician Dr. Z. who sez he teaches his patients a similar technique for use on their children:
"Just Want To Second Jerry's Method For Dealing With This (Destructive Separation Anxiety). I've Suggested It To Quite A Few Clients Now And It's Worked 'EVERY TIME The Very First Time' - marilyn, Trainer,
33 Years Experience.
From: Hoku Beltz To: The Puppy Wizard Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 6:12 PM Subject: Mahalo
Aloha Jerry,
Just wanted to let you know that the surrogate toy technique is working wonders. I have not had a shredded sheet for over a week now. It is nice to be able to leave the bed made and come home to a made bed.
Your program is awesome, but you already know that. Keep up the good work!
Hoku
Dave Cohen <coh...@total.net writes: Re: Barking Deterrants Needed...
Hi.
Please understand that I do not know Jerry and have spoken with him briefly once by email.
I have no stake or interest in the success of his business. I simply want to thank him publicly for one of his tips, with regards to separation anxiety.
I thought it seemed far fetched to praise a stuffed animal and then say good bye to my own dog, but I am usually a very open minded person, so I tried it. Well, lo and behold- the damn trick worked!
I think Jerry has some intriguing techniques, and personally I think everyone who constantly criticizes him is not understanding his logic.
Thank you Jerry!
Date: 2001-11-14 09:13:21 PST "Yves Dussault" <ydussa...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:3b1110ff.3798143@news1.on.sympatico.ca...
> Hi! > I have downloaded Wit's End Dog Training Method... > In there there is that trick with a toy about > "Separation anxiety surrogate toy technique."
> Anybody has tried that... I would like to give it > a try with my GSP (German shorthair.....pointer) > Comments? Yves Dussault
Yves,
I for one have tried it... in fact I use this all the time. I just used it last evening while my husband and I went out to see "The Mummy Returns" (a horrible turkey of a movie, but at least the house wasn't chewed from end to end in the meantime).
Yes, it really works. :-) So do the other distraction/praise techniques described therein.
If you are interested in the manual, you will probably want to begin the exercises as well.
Regards, Lisa
---------
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard uses this technique EVERY TIME HE leaves HIS dogs.
Now you understand this procedure must be done for four consecutive occasions. Do this on a couple of brief absences, and you'll see the problem disappear.
Of course, we do have a technique using sound to correct any misbehavior that might occur in your absence. Upon your return, disregard any damage. Leave your attitude outside. Don't gasp, sigh, swear, or show any negative emotion.
Say hello, as you should ordinarily, and before touching any damaged or soiled area, search for one of those cans. Picking it up very carefully so as to not create any sound, walk past the "bad spot" and casually point toward it and ask "What's that?" as you drop the can next to it, as you continue to go about your business not relative to this incident.
Put your dog out of sight while you clean or repair any damage.
When you're done cleaning and you've invited him back in, he's going to look at that area and look up at you. Your going to tell him what a good dog he is, even though he wasn't. This will "blow his mind." He's going to wonder, "What can I do to get your attention?"
9A. The Soggy Potato Chip Theory
Here's something that's probably been funded by our federal government, for probably zillions of dollars in grant money, to some big shots at one of our more prestigious universities.
This psychological study explores the idea that given two bowls of potato chips at a party, one bowl being nice and fresh, the other being old and soggy, that people invited to this party will refrain from eating the soggy chips, until all of the fresh ones have been eaten.
With more time, and the absence of any more fresh chips, the soggy ones will be eaten just the same!
The experiment boils down to the hypothesis that "lacking positive attention, we will substitute less desired behavior to fill the void." Go figure.
Nonetheless, it's true. Lacking positive attention, your pet will do something negative in order to get the amount of attention he requires.
Your job is to insure that you give proper attention thereby avoiding the negative attention-getting devices that your pet may employ against you.
Don't let your attitude or your temper be seen, as this will be determined by your pet to be the most effective way in which to get all of the attention he wants.
Most of the difficulties we have with our pets are as a result of our own resistance to doing what we now know is correct. Any time your dog can get you to stop in your tracks and command 100% of your undivided negative attention, you have just inadvertently taught him how to manipulate you.
Don't make yourself a Victim!
Each time your dog looks at you, even fleetingly, requires a positive verbal response, to appease his need for emotional contact with you.
THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY:
ESCHEW OBFUSCATION: That's what we're trying to do, to avoid complicating matters, to clarify the terminology, without confusing psychobabble.
But if you would like a little bit of psycho type talk, the following should do it for you. There's plenty of good information in this list, but there is no need to worry about the language in the etiology of behavior, any more than what is already in the text above.
ETIOLOGY: The study of causative factors creating symptoms. DOGS DON'T DO THINGS WITHOUT REASONS.
REASONS: Those reasons may not be obvious to you, but if you looked at life from a dog's point of view, it would be evident. We'll do that later.
But first, when your dog is disruptive, what gets all your attention is its behavior. Don't worry about the misbehavior; find the cause.
As we solve one problem, another will surface in its place. As we become focused on the misbehaviors, our attention further compounds the problem.
In fact, any attention or reaction to misbehavior can vicariously reward the dog or further incite him.
EXAMPLE; "My dog barks every time I'm on the phone." This always starts a cycle of disruption. Any time your dog can break your routine, and command 100% OF YOUR UNDIVIDED ATTENTION, HE WINS.
SOLUTION: DON'T FALL VICTIM to these negative attention- getting devices. Don't engage in a shouting match. PRAISE FIRST and then break the cycle subtly, with distraction techniques as interruptions, and, as always, follow up with immediate, non-physical praise.
The most common cause of anxiety / hyperactive behavior problems is the need for DIRECTED ATTENTION.
Unstructured love and attention and excessive exercise alone won't suffice. Just exercising your dog cannot structure his thinking to make him calm and accepting of changes in your family life:
"BAD DOG ALWAYS WORKS!!!" - professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM at UofWI, marshall dermer
Aggression, Opposition And Allelomimetic Behavior - Teaching RESPECT For Your HIGHER INTELLIGENCE - Date: 2003-07-27 08:17:43 PST
HOWEDY People,
Here's professor of ANAL-ytic behavior at UofWI marshall SCRUFF SHAKE AND SCREAM "NO!" into ITS face for five seconds dermer:
Mine will go "bonkers" if he has been exercise deprived.
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu) Subject: Re: new puppy bitting/chewing hands Date: 1999/07/05
In article <976F54CA8C2C77AB.9DF245927D0DAB8B.90BA464FE454E...@lp.airnews.net > Jason <asl...@removethisline.geocities.com> writes: > > I would assume that all puppies like to bite and > chew on just about anything. How do you train a > young puppy NOT to chew on hands and feet? Although > there is a time and place for saying 'no' and giving > the dog a scruff shake I do no know if this is > appropriate at this age.
At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function. But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases then you will have achieved too things.
First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased; and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.
How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted biting.
When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).
My dog is about 1.5 years old. "No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog" to stop a behavior.
"Bad Dog" ALWAYS works.
then, of course, quickly say "Good Dog" when he is appropriately behaving.
In providing verbal punishment and reinforcement as in using nonverbal punishement and reinforcement, timing is very important.
Use these consquences to control behavior much as in the game where a child is told "your getting hot" or "your getting cold." If the delay between the behavior and the consquence is too long then the behavior will not appropriately change.
--Marshall
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu) Subject: Re: Update on Puppy Biting Date: 1999/06/14
In article <37675817.19034...@news3.bga.com> clayn@NO_JUNKdillonet.com writes: > > My previous thread seems to have deteriorated > off topic, but I would still like some input on > biting and aggressive behavior. To recount I > have a Chow/Lab mix who is now 9 weeks old. > The biggest problem I had with him is biting. : > This could have been when petting him, walking > by, or when playing. This seems to be his way of > playing or getting attention, but it can drive me nuts.
> To stop this I've distracted with chew toys,
Distraction can be a BIG mistake! Why? Because if your manipulation of the chew toy is reinforcing then you are inadvertently reinforcing your dog for biting if you follow his biting with activating the chew toy.
The standard way to curtail biting is to either "yelp loudly," "clamp the dog's mouth shut with your hand," or "pick him up by the scruff of his neck" and say "no" whenever he bites.
All of these are punishment procedures and to work they must be put into place promptly, within say .5 sec, after the bite.
Isolating the dog after a bite is another form of punishment called time-out (from reinforcement but it is hard to rapidly implement--within .5 sec of a bite.
If one of these procedures does not work, that is, your dog behaves as if it were a game, then you are not using an effective punisher/procedure.
> I said NO, and failing that put him in my room > alone for a few min. When in there he barks and > whines, but afterwards behaves much better. > > After about a week of this the biting has decreased > remarkably, but hasn't stopped outright. Still does > it when he gets into hyper Puppy Jihad mode.
Well, be patient.
You can, of course, use differential reinforcement of other behavior to eliminate biting. If there is a situation in which your dog often bites. then create the situation and if your dog goes without biting for
1 sec. offer a reinforcer (click and treat if you use a clicker).
Then gradually increase the time that your dog must go without biting for the reinforcer to be delivered. Eventually, your dog will not bite and the other behaviors that you have been reinforcing will be more frequent.
Another factor to consider is whether your dog is getting sufficient exercise.
Mine will go "bonkers" if he has been exercise deprived.
Best wishes,
Marshall
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
"Distraction" as taught by university Masters Degree of behaviorISM professors REWARDS inapupriate behaviors and causes HOWEsbreaking problems, coprophagia (poo eating) and the necessity of SCRUFF SHAKING the dog which further hyperEXXXCITES the dog and consequences in necessitating five miles of EXXXCESSIVE EXXXORCISE on a daily basis to stop the dog from humping the couch pillows.
Over time, these imbecilic efforts to force control result in chronic deathly stress induced auto-immune DIS-EASES aka The Puppy Wizard's Syndrome <{); ~ ) >
Seems coprophagia and humping are allelomimetic behaviors, sez The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard <{): ~ ) >
ALLELOMIMETIC BEHAVIOR: This comes from the word "mimic." Your dog will copy your ACTIONS and ATTITUDES. Monkey see; monkey do. Monkey takes right after you!
That's right. Use this to your advantage. If you handle roughly, he'll respond likewise. The more concerned or nervous we are about our dogs behavior, the more we MAY ACTUALLY COMPEL SUCH BEHAVIOR TO BEGIN!
EXAMPLE: If your dog is about to growl at a stranger and he sees you become upset, he doesn't think we are worried about his actions, but those of the stranger. Now he has a real cause to be wary.
SOLUTION: Use allelomimetic behavior to demonstrate a sense of calm and trust. Don't take chances, but the more upset you are, the more relaxed you must appear.
Jerry's Dog Training Manual
"I Am Willing To Take Jerry's Theory On How Dogs Think As A Likely One, Simply Because The Dog Training Methodology He Describes (Based On His Suppositions) Works So Well," Lisa B.
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu) Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual Date: 2001-07-10 13:34:38 PST
In article <HRI27.3908$187.184...@news-re=3DADp.ab.videon.ca> "Jenn" writes:
> Hi Lynn, > I used to have a barking problem with my > German Shepherd Dog a couple of years ago. > > I tried several things recommended to me by > different trainers, and nothing was working. > When I read that section of Jerry's Manual, > I thought the same way you did. > > "What???? PRAISE her for barking?" It sounded > counterproductive, but I had tried everything else > I'd heard so I thought I'd try it too. > > Next time she went nuts at a person walking by > outside, I told her, "Good job! Good girl! You are > such a good protector!" And instead of continuing > the barking, she came to me for a belly rub! She > will still bark (she's a guard dog, that's her job), > but after one bark, she knows she's done her job > to warn me by my praise, and she stops. > > Jenn,
Could you be so kind as to post here the section from Jerry's manual where he writes that you should JUST praise the dog when it barks?????????
As I recall, I thought he first advocates distracting the dog from barking, with keys or the soft sound of pennies in a can, before praising.
Perhaps you can tutor me regarding Jerry's system.
Thanks in advance!
--Marshall Dermer
PS: I don't read Jerry's posts but I look forward to your post.
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu) Subject: Re: Clicker training "stay" Date: 2001-06-21 20:25:38 PST In article <iqtY6.5456$rA2.1119...@news-r=3DADep.ab.videon.ca> "Jenn"
<d...@try.it> writes: > Hi, DogStar716, sorry you feel this way about > me. I hope I can change your mind in the future, > as I love reading your posts, and value (and > have used) some of your advice.
BWWWWWEEEJAJAJAJAJAJAAAAA!!!
> As for my post to Jer, I am just attempting > to get a plain answer about something instead > of a trash- fest. I just want to know if it can be > done. > Jenn Standring
I'm not Jerry but sure you could use a clicker to distract a dog but that is not the purpose of a clicker.
You can also use a teaspoon to cut steak but that is not the purpose of teaspoon!
--Marshall
Hi Marshall,
I'll do my best to answer you... please bear with me, ok? :-)
Marshall Dermer wrote: > In article <3B4B013F.914E0...@hotmail.com=3DAD> > 2tails <wagginta...@hotmail.com> writes: > > <snip Dave's response> > > > Not to mention, the manual has a lot regarding how dogs > > think, which can't be explained just by a short description > > of "what to do." The psychology behind the method is > > needed so that the person reading it will be able to figure > > out their dogs' problems by themselves.
> > Problems, as in "why is my dog doing 'X,'" and figuring > > out ways to address it, if necessary. > > regards, > > Lisa
> Dear Lisa, > How would you know if Jerry's analysis > of "how dog's think" is correct?
> That is, if thinking is some invisible process inside of a > dog's head how would we know if Jerry or anyone is correct?
Of course, it isn't necessary at all to know how dogs think, or even if they *do* think. I believe that they do, but of course I can't prove it, and neither can Jerry.
The heart of the matter is, the discussion in the manual regarding "how dogs think" is part of a wholistic approach to dog training.
It helps to comprehend the reasoning behind the methodology. The methodology works quickly and easily, therefore lending credence (as far as I'm concerned) to his theory of how dogs think.
It's the same sort of thing regarding theories of whether the earth revolves around the sun, or contrariwise. Is it possible to send a rocket to the moon, based on the assumption that the sun revolves around the earth?
The answer is, of course, yes, though it would most likely be enormously complicated. The better solution is to begin with the theory that the earth revolves around the sun.
In other words, the simplest answer or description is the best, even though it may not be empirically provable.
And so, I am willing to take Jerry's theory on how dogs think as a likely one, simply because the dog training methodology he describes (based on his suppositions) works so well.
I hope this helps you to understand from which perspective I say the things that I do about Jerry's method and manual.
regards, regards, Lisa
"If I Knew It Would Be That Easy, I Would Have Done This A Long Time Ago Saving Myself 5 Years Of Dealing With A Bouncy, Over Excited Dog!" Jenn.
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu) Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual Date: 2001-07-12 06:49:13 PST
> Paul B wrote: >> While the concept of shake cans is not new, >> I haven't read any other advice that says to >> praise immediately regardless of what the dog >> does next (the common advice is to praise once >> the dog is doing a desired behaviour or at least >> stopped the unwanted behaviour), this is unique >> to Jerry (and Marilyn) and from my own experiences >> is an important part of the process.
And how do we know this aspect of his advice is right?
Jerry is not God and his manual is not the Bible.
His advice could be subject to an empirical analysis.
--Marshall
"Marshall Dermer" <der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu> wrote in message news:9ihtee$7ib$1@uwm.edu...
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpand...@zfree.co.nz) Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual Date: 2001-07-12 00:13:28 PST
Hello Marshall,
The way I view it from my observation of how my dogs react is that the distraction interrupts the dogs thought, not for good or bad, just interrupts, the dog is therefore distracted for a second and then will either continue the behaviour or do something else.
The praise reassures the dog that the sound distraction is not a threat or punishment, however if everytime the dog resumes a particular behaviour it's distracted immediately
(and praised immediately for reassurance) then it quickly decides this behaviour is not fulfilling and it ceases.
A dog will offer another behaviour in it's place and if that is acceptable to us then we let it be otherwise the distraction continues until a suitable alternate behaviour is offered.
One example, Sam used to jump up on me when I arrived home, I would shake can to distract him right at the moment he was about to jump up, after about 4 repetitions he tried sitting and offering me his paw, of course this was fine so I let it be.
While the concept of shake cans is not new, I haven't read any other advice that says to praise immediately regardless of what the dog does next (the common advice is to praise once the dog is doing a desired behaviour or at least stopped the unwanted behaviour), this is unique to Jerry (and Marilyn) and from my own experiences is an important part of the process.
> Thanks Paul! He does recommend praising > a dog for barking, but he appears to recognize > that this may not work and so distraction > is recommended as a back up procedure:
"Brandy Kurtz" <KraftyKur...@wmconnect.com> wrote in message news:2f66e35d.0407302331.1f18b8c6@posting.google.com...
Hello everyone! We have a 2 1/2 year old male
Well I just printed out the Amazing Puppy Wizard info, so I haven't actually started to train yet.
Today a salesman knocked on the door, and Pokey was going balisstic. I calmly go to the window to see who it is, and off-handly say Good Boy, It's a stranger, Good Boy.
Pokey shut right up, gave me a quizical look, and came and sat beside my feet!
OMG, I could not believe it!
I was totally floored, as this has been his behavior since a pup. Just wanted to update, and Pokey and I are hitting the sack...;)
Brandy
"Estel J. Hines" <ejhi...@comcast.net> wrote in message news:w86dna9lBfNZgbTdRVn-hA@comcast.com...
Until i read the Jerry method of Bark reductioon, it went something like this with our 11 month old puppy "Yoshi"
Yoshi: Bark, bark,
us: HUSH Youshi
Yoshi Bark, bark......................
us: Hush Youshi
Yoshi BARK, BARK, BARK, .................................
it stopped when Yoshi got tired barking
We decided to try the Jerry method:
Yoshi: BARK, BARK
US: GOOD Yoshi, Good Boy, who is it?
Yoshi Bark, Bark US: It's ok, good boy Yoshi, We know them
Yosh without fail, now stops after we say that
I must say, it is so much more fun, when we can praise him, to deal with things like this
Thanks Jerry
ps: We are just starting to go thru the Jerry Papers, and learn how to live with our son "Yoshi", whom we love very much.
-- Best Regards,
Estel J. Hines
-------------------------------
"melisande" <melisand...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rLo08.751$0H.535937@paloalto-snr1.gtei.net...
> your website,
It's moore than a chapter, it's a comprehensive,
total, complete, gestalt method to train all animals
to any level you desire.
Excellent.
> that, well, frankly, we're stunned.
My methods work faster than any others, anywhere at
any price, including the thirty five level of medical grade
static like stimulation devices and pronged spiked pinch
choke collars our "experts" here love so much.
> with (no crates, no choke chains).
Good. Crates aren't inherently bad, only
the way they're misused.
> (he's an 84 year old dog lover,one of those about whom
> people say, "dogs really like him." He's never had a badly behaved dog.
Good. I've got a lot in common with folks
who are gentle and treat animals kindly.
You mean the sound distraction and praise techniques.
Yes, one of my students Paul B wrote an excellent post
recently I'll include it at the bottom. It'll explain HOWE
the distraction and praise process works from his POV
as an experienced handler using my methods.
> us to implement is the verbal praise only.
Why? That should be spontaneous and in association
with every glance towards you and every thought.
> (especially our seven month old).
Oh. Pattng is O.K., only not in conjunction with a
thought or command, as it will interrupt the thought
process and may lock the dog's thoughts on an
inappropriate idea.
It's called positive thigmotaxis, the opposition reflex.
Like if we're walking our dog and want to prevent him
from interacting with another dog, and we pull back
on the collar, that often triggers the dog to go out of
control.
As long as there's contact on the collar, the dog will
continue his original thoughts about interacting with
the passerby. Then because the dog is out of control,
the handler needs to further force restraint, making
communication with the dog's MIND, impossible.
Any time your dog is close enough to be patted is
fine to pat him, as long as we're not working with a
command or thought we want him to process.
Yes, it's caused quite a stir here. If my methods are as
effective and fast and safe as I claim and my students
confirm, that pretty much means that
all of my critics are
DEAD WRONG,
and all's that's left for me to
do is shovel some dirt over them
and let 'em push up daisies. 
-----------------
From: Paul Bousie
To: The Puppy Wizard
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003
Subject: Geday.
Hey J,
I see nothings changed on the NG. Still the same old crappy advice and misunderstanding of the only advice worth reading.
The problem with your method J is that I can't answer the questions on the NG no more, people are after a quick fix, they don't want to understand that dog training requires a disiplined method, I'm now really understanding that they are all result orientated, they want the dog to sit, to down, to stay, to come, to stop it's "bad" behaviours, they want to stamp out each anxiety one at a time not realising they create a new one as they deal with the last.
I feel sorry for them, they don't understand, they don't even realise the errors of thier ways and they arn't self thinkers, they follow the majority, after all if everyone says thats the way then it must be. I've finally realised people don't want to learn to train dogs they want a trained dog, they want a little puppet that sits and stays and downs and does all the nice doggy stuff or so they think, then when the dog acts like a dog they come squealing to the NG asking how to stop the dog being a dog.
I have a nice little visulisation of a dogs mind that I think demonstrates the way we approach dog training. Imagine lots of little circles all in a cluster, each one representing a dog anxiety or behaviour ( desied or not), each circle represents something about the dog, all of them create what a dog is.
The traditional way to train a dog is to stamp out the "bad" circles, try to eliminate as many as you can, problem is each one you stamp out another takes it's place (anxiety circles can't be destroyed they just change), obviously it's a futile exercise, but thats the traditional way.
Now imagine a big circle that completely surrounds all the small circles, this big circle is the whole dog, that's what we get hold of with all the little circles inside, we don't see the little circles we see the BIG circle the macro as you put it and use that to train.
I laugh now when I see posts critisising you, they are critising something they don't even understand or even have the capacity to understand.
See ya,
Paul
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Many times we see people try to calm their pet by patting. As they become more nervous, they pat faster and faster. This quick patting further excites their pet.
Try to stroke the full length of the body at about the normal rate of respiration.
POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS: The opposition reflex.
This is the MOST DIFFICULT CAUSE OF BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS, because we AUTOMATICALLY FALL VICTIM TO IT.
EXAMPLE: As your dog pulls, you pull back. Now you are both pulling. Next, you get frustrated and mad. Then ALLELOMIMETIC BEHAVIOR COMES INTO THE PICTURE and your dog copies your actions and attitudes and gets frustrated and mad.
What may have begun as a nice walk could soon become a tense, frustrating situation. This anxiety, without a vent or release mechanism, continues long afterward.
SOLUTION: Don't allow pulling. When your dog pulls, relieve the tension on the leash and praise immediately.
Do this consistently. We have just a split second to praise him after releasing the tension on the lead or the message will not get across.
Pulling on the leash, even as little as one pound of pressure per square inch, for just a second and a half is enough to trigger the opposition reflex.
"Greg M. Silverman" <gmsNOS...@no.umn.edu> wrote in message
Hey, Mr. Wizard, or Alchemist or whatever your alias of the day is, have to say that our dog heels much better than she did. This is after reading and implementing the bit in your "Wits End" treatise.
And she's a royal nutter (but then again, aren't they all?).
Cheers! Greg--
AND LIKE THIS:
"Hennie van Dalen" <h.vandalen11***removethis...@chello.nl> wrote in message news:TlsCb.2895$7U1.7896@amstwist00...
RTFM is age-old computer lingo.... It stands for "Read The F***ing Manual" ;-) I used the manual and it works very good!
But it is a long text to read (76 pages printed on A4-size paper) My lab is 1year old now, and teaching him something new takes about 30minutes (depending on what to teach of course)
My other dog (a 7year old staffordshire terrier-mix) is a bit slower in learning, but he is used to me calling him a "bad dog"whenever he did something i didn't want him to do, or it might be the age.
Sometimes it looks like Sam (the lab) WANTS to learn something new: he wants me to bring along the can filled with washers whenever we go for a walk. It is a very "humane" way of teaching: the dog is allways a "good dog", and never a "bad dog"
There is nu punishment or prong-collars involved.
For a fact i tought him to heel in 15min's without beeing on a leach at-all !!! When he spotted a dog, he used to run towards it, but now i tought him to "ask permission" first, and to my surprise it worked!
My dogs never went to puppy-training (lucky for them), maybe this helped too.
-- Hennie van Dalen
That's just one small example. Here's the real story on POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS, the OPPOSITION REFLEX: ANY PULLING OR EVEN SLIGHT TENSION on your dog's collar, or PUSHING OR PULLING ON HIS BODY can SHUT OFF his ability to think and or listen to you, even while praising him.
Like when you might ask him to sit and then reach back to place him, he may just stop going into position. Look at it like this: Your dog's first obligation is to oppose you. It's built in. Once he understands the object of your desire, forget it!
He is naturally obligated to do EXACTLY OPPOSITE....
Physical opposition, say as you reach for his collar while greeting a guest at the door, will cause exactly the behavior you wanted to avoid. Next, as he becomes familiar with your hand coming out to restrain him, he consciously goes faster to avoid being restrained.
Physical opposition, as you try to prevent jumping or bolting, or even vocal opposition as you shout to prevent whining or barking or fighting, can trigger the opposition reflex, compelling the undesirable behavior to begin.
In just moments your dog can learn to out-manouver you.
This physical opposition soon becomes a mental opposition. Learn to control without restraint or confronting.
Forced restraint or forced control will always defeat its own purpose. It's like trying to grab a handful of water... Try to grab a fistful of water, and all you will get is a wet hand. Scoop gently, and you could empty the whole basin.
Subject: Re: It doesn't work. Do it harder.
"Chris Williams" <k9ap...@webtv.net> wrote in message news:16008-3E52F7CF-697@storefull-2171.public.lawson.webtv.net...
> Interesting question posed in this article: why do humans > persist in doing things that are unsuccessful?
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/=AD=ADarticle.cgi?f=3D/c/a/2003/02/15/=AD=ADH= O240381.DTL
There may be a few reasons, sometimes it's ignorance, simply a failure to realise what you are doing is futile and you need to adopt a different approach.
Sometimes you may be learning a new technique and need to experiment with it to be sure it's not just the way you are applying it that is the problem, you may need to try slight variations of the same technique to see if there is a different result before you dismiss it completely.
Sometimes you are doing the only thing you can think of, even though it's not working but you simply don't know what else to do.
Either way as long as you are able to reflect and learn from your experiences and move forward then a few failed attempts are all part of the learning process.
My best example was teaching both dogs to walk to heel, alone and together in the brace position.
I was determined to teach them without any aids (choke, prong collars or treats etc) and without forcing the heel by jerking or restraining them using a leash, I knew it could be done, despite the scorn of friends and even family who "knew better" (but had never actually trained a dog in their lives).
It took me a while trying various ways to entice them to want to walk beside me, someone else at the dog park whose dog appeared to heel very well ( but held it's ears back and tail down and looked very intimidated about being at heel) suggested I give up and use a choke collar like him, but I was obstinate.
One day like a switch it all fell into place, first one dog then the other then both together all walked to heel, then I tried without leads and it worked, the dogs were happy and so was I.
I had persevered and succeeded and learnt alotin the process.
People said "it took you long enough" but now I could teach heel easily and quickly when I need to do it again. And now when I walk my dogs and I see the same scornful people with their dogs still pulling on the choke collars saying "heel, heel".
It's me who has the last laugh.
Paul
----------
Amanda wrote:
No, the dog learned that I would hold still the second she began to pull. She would pull to go where *she* wanted.
Well if she wanted to stop and go in another direction.. say to sniff my neighbors yard..
she learned if she wanted to do it I would stop walking and she could go.. and if there wasn't enough slack on her lead she would just pull me.
Then when she got done doing *her* thing, she woudl heel.. smile at me and wait for me to say "let's go" and finish *my* thing. I would refuse to move .. i looked like an idiot.. freezing mid walk for minutes waiting for *my* dog to heel and give *me* permission to go again.
I did the treats and the let's go... she got to do her stuff and get a cookie.. if she even wanted the cookie.
I wound up calling Jerry.. as I have a half red nose pit and half amstaff.. who is incredibly protective..
we had a new pup on the way.. and i needed help.. i followed petsmarts trainnign guides.. memorized them... and they *did* work, don't get me wrong.. but only when my pet wanted a cookie or felt the cookie was better than what she wanted.. which was not often.
She quickly learned to ignore my commands if she could see my hands were empty. So I called Jerry... he chatted me for about an hour and a half.. gave me his link... and even when i had probs intro'ing the pup he called me withn i5 mins of my email for help at 10pm on a sunday night.
One.. singular.. uno family pack exercise after the hot and cold exercise and i could zig zag down my street.. about face .. whatever.. and never had tension.
two men were acrossed the street and she walked right by them... ordinarily she'd snarl and protect us.
And in two days.. my dog.. who bit the puppy if he even looked like he was going near my husband or kids.. is nursing him every hour.. cleaning him.. rough housing gently.. and teaching him to go potty outside..
actually watches him to make sure he doesn't go in the house... and has milk.. which is awesome since she's 19 months old and has never had a litter.
She also has stopped barking non stop at our neighbor's dogs and pig.. does not bark at eveyr car that drives by and has stopped jumping on people. she's even starting to ignore our cat who has lived on her dome litter box and our window sill (literally) for over a year and a half.
She also does her commands on cue.. and doesn't look for a treat.
---------------
Vocal opposition, or shouting, needs further mention.
We see this quite often, especially when people try to prevent fighting or aggression. The first thing they usually do is express panic by screaming. Just think of how your dog might copy this.
HOW CAN WE BREAK POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS?
Four properly timed interruptions WITH PRAISE!
VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX: Just as with "Wiley Coyote," compelled to catch the Road Runner, he cannot stop to think. He sees the Road Runner, cuts the string to the anvil and instead of waiting, he is compelled to catch him.
The consequences of this move are not thought out. Strictly reflex. Let's look at this again. Your dog sees a fly overhead, and just snaps him out of the air. This action is not thought out. It goes from the eye right through the right side of his brain, to catching it in the air.
That's VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX. What if it were a hornet? Same thing, but with different consequences... He'd find out too late.
HOWE about when you see a fly? Most likely you see it and think: You want to grab the fly swatter, make sure the fly isn't on the expensive drapes, and simply send it on to a higher level of existence. The thought process is done with the left side of the brain. That's why you may miss.
You have to think to aim. No reflex.
HOW CAN WE BREAK THE VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX?
Four properly timed interruptions WITH PRAISE!
SOMATIC MEMORY: Unconscious, automatic, involuntary, natural reflex. Just as a spring or curl regains its shape. Most often, your dog does not think about his actions, just like "Wiley Coyote," he doesn't stop to think out the consequences of his actions.
Strictly reflex.
He sees a door, he's gone. He sees you, he jumps. He sees a cat, he's gone. If so much K-9 behavior were reflexive, wouldn't it be fair to believe that he does not understand that his behavior is wrong?
How could you correct him if he doesn't even think he'd done anything wrong?
HOW CAN WE BREAK SOMATIC MEMORY?
Four properly timed interruptions WITH PRAISE!
SURVIVAL INSTINCT: The oral desire.
Your dog is programmed to do what it must to insure the survival of itself and its species.
That's one powerful tool that is often overlooked as a training aid. Most trainers utilize this with food bribes. To get results at any price is their motivation.
Other aspects of survival instinct can be more successfully employed. At some point bribery will cause trouble, as with each treat, survival instinct comes into play.
Soon your dog's appreciation level of you is lowered from a mind appreciation to the gut level.
When your dog would rather go to his food than you, look out!
Pack mentality is one manifestation of survival instinct. Your dog looks upon his family as his "pack." We can manipulate this instinct, or be victimized by it.
"Checking back," which is a familiar term with hunters, is a sideways glance to keep from straying too far from the hunter, or in our case, the pack or family. Praise when you see your dog "checking back," and he will move in closer.
If he forges on ahead, turn and he will "check back" on you. If you keep moving away he will turn to follow. Praise him and he will continue. Just don't get caught checking back on him, or he will expect you to follow.
This principle will be used effectively in our program later.
Symptoms of behavior, good as well as bad, may be attributed to survival instinct. These symptoms may be manifested outwardly or inwardly.
Over protectiveness or cowering could be examples of very closely related but opposite ways of dealing with circumstances of the environment.
They are often inter-changeable within the same individual.
Other symptoms of a self-concerned rigid nature could be compulsive scratching, paw licking side or leg sucking, hiding, balking, withdrawal, cowering, and submissive urination.
From: Eric To: jho...@bellsouth.net Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 7:54 AM Subject: just checking in..
Jerry!
You helped me with my pal Dundee about a year ago regarding submissive peeing. Just wanted to let you know he's doing great- he was "cured" in about 2 days using your techniques!
He has since become the "smartest dog in the world"! Once I stopped thinking like a human and got inside his head, I can teach him ANYTHING, usually in a matter of minutes. Makes me look like an expert dog-trainer.
I rescued two strays last week, cleaned 'em up, wormed 'em, and am getting them their shots. Time to get inside their heads and teach them to teach themselves how to be good dogs!
Instead of feeling like "training" is a chore, I look forward to working with these guys a couple times a day...
Although I don't follow your instructions "to a T", I learned from you to "think like a dog" and stimulate their brain rather than beating ass or pinching, or any of that nonsense.
I know damn well I would NOT be loyal to someone who beat MY ass lol!
Well, just wanted to thank you for rattling the bushes out there and teaching folks the RIGHT way to "train" dogs.
A horseman friend of mine uses very similar techniques in training his horses- he calls it "natural horsemanship". He is hated by nearly all the local "trainers" yet somehow he repeatedly wins at every show he attends. He rarely shows any more, but goes now and then to rub their noses in it
(pun intended)... Too cool....
Have a great holiday season and keep up the good work!
Eric , Dundee, Sammy, and Maynard
--------------
EXAMPLE: Fear biters can be made to be aggressive biters. "My dog bites/shies out of fear when strangers try to pat him."
SOLUTION: WARNING!!! Don't try this without our professional guidance!!! (This graphic solution is just one of several possibilities.) Teach the dog to bite on command, thus building confidence, overcoming shyness or fear.
HOW CAN WE BREAK ANY OF THESE BEHAVIORS?
Four properly timed interruptions WITH PRAISE!
CHAINED DOG / BARRIER FRUSTRATION SYNDROME:
Often for convenience, but frequently because of lack of proper control, we must tie or otherwise restrict our pets.
The barrier, crate or chain that is used causes a natural frustration, because everything is out of reach.
This can cause stress, which can result in serious behavior problems, even extreme viciousness.
This condition needs further mention. It is natural for most dogs to become very protective or territorial about the area of their confinement or tie out.
Never allow strangers to greet or pat a dog while tied out or confined in a run or crate.
HOWE can we restrain a dog on a chain or behind a barrier without risking difficulty? Either remove the source of stimulation, such as keeping him out of sight and/or hearing of children, guests, etc., or work to break the cycle of over-stimulation using PRAISE IN ADVANCE and brief variably alternating distraction instantly followed by prolonged non physical praise.
EXAMPLE: "I crate my puppy during the day when I'm at work. He seems fine, but gets really upset when we're home and have to put him inside."
SOLUTION: Use the distraction and Surrogate Toy Techniques contained herein to break the barrier frustration syndrome.
From: "LEE " <> To: <ThePuppyWiz...@EarthLink.Net> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 6:11 AM Subject: Wits end training in England
HOWEDY Lee,
> Hi, > I have stumbled across your training method on the internet
EXCELLENT!
Nuthin happens by accident or coincidence.
> and I am pleased to say, one part of it has worked > already after only 3 days of training.
Wonderful! Please follow the method entirely and PRECISELY. It NEVER FAILS, but it's very unforgiving of mistakes and doesn't play well with other methods.
> I own two boxers, one of which is a rescue dog who > sufferred from 'seperation anxiety'
SA usually takes no more than WON day or two, to break.
> and would constantly chew his bedding in his crate > when in the house alone. After only 2 sessions of > praising his favourite nylon bone and leaving it in > front of the crate before leaving, the behaviour is gone!
HOWETSTANDING!
> Now I only have the rest of the 2 boys problems to solve.
NO PROBLEM! We'll make your dogs PERFECT NEARLY INSTANTLY or The Puppy Wizard will get the heel HOWETA this business!
> I have read the manual and the main problem I wish > to solve with both dogs is pulling on the lead.
That's EZ! All you gotta do is follow the method from the begining and work the technqiues till the end of the the method.
> It says in the manual that methods will be discussed > in the troubleshooting pages but I cannot find these.
Yes, I think I left out a couple things when I rewrote it, like the glossary and trHOWEbleshootin.
> You also say that you have to pull the dog back > slightly by one inch then praise.
Right. That's only if the dog is already pulling.
> By the time I get good out of my mouth the dog > is dragging me down the street again!
That's HOWE COME you've got to handle the lead and set your stance and balance PRECISELY as instructed.
> Could you give me more advice on this issue please.
Sure. Ask me any time you've got a question.
> Also, I assume that the training will work better if I > train one dog at a time.
At least for the initial training, just a couple days.
> Is this correct or could I do both at once?
No, work them individualy till you've got them in control, then you can work them together on the more advanced work.
> I look forward to your reply and thank you for your help.
The SECRET to breaking the pulling is to handle the lead GENTLY and not restrain the pup. Tension on the lead must be released INSTANTLY and praised. But you must not be moving forward and you must praise in advance, and when you're working the heeling exercises, you'll reverse and praise instantly when the pup breaks the heel position.
Basically, every thing relies on every thing else in the text. Work the method from the begining to the end and don't be afraid to spend additional time doing the H&C Exercise, the FPLX and the come command. Get that all generalized in several different environments.
> Having been told that boxers are nearly untrainable
AIN'T NO SUCH CRITTER.
> your guide has given me hope.
Just relax, follow the method, and ask me if you have any difficulty. Try PRAISING FIRST, instead of relying on distraction and praise to break a behavior. We don't want the pup to think of the distraction sound as an aversive.
PRAISE INSTANTLY to the sound, and do not introduce it in the heeling or H&C Exercise until the techniques have been thouroughly conditioned.
> Lee
Stick close to me till you've got all their behaviors in 100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL.
Yours,
The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{}; ~ ) >
HOW CAN WE BREAK THE CYCLE OF OVER-STIMULATION?
Four properly timed interruptions WITH PRAISE and the Surrogate Toy Technique!
From: "LESPERANCE/DEAKIN" <madea...@total.net> Date: 1999/10/06 Subject: Re: Separation Anxiety
Well Jerry, I have to hand it to you. It worked!
Our dog was very well behaved until I had to go on the road for my work this summer. I was gone twice for 10 long days each time. Although there were still people home, I am the "primary care-giver" to my dog, so he became destructive (shoes, books, rugs, papers etc)
We have a crate, but I believe it is too small for him now - he is a cross golden/gsd and when he sits or stands he cannot hold his head up as the top is too low, so I didn't want to crate him while I went to work for sometimes
8 hours.
Anyway, I decided to try your method with the toy.
I would find a toy, tell it to be good and place it in his crate. After just 3 days, there was no more destruction in the house - even when daughter or hubby forgot to put their shoes away! Now the toy stays in the crate all day, and he even crawls in to be with the "good toy" when I leave.
He seems quite proud when we come home.
I have not tried the can thing - don't quite understand that, so I think my dog may be confused too!
Marcie (Winslow's mom)
------------
MALINGER/SUBTERFUGE: To pretend injury or illness in order to avoid responsibility or work; a scam or ploy to avoid doing something. Dogs are great, even witty when it comes to thinking up ways to avoid or get out of doing what you want.
EXAMPLE: "Every time I try to train my dog, he becomes 'lame,' like my uncle with that old 'war injury' any time there's WORK to be done!"
SOLUTION:
Make sure there is nothing wrong, start to train, and when that old affliction appears, say "You poor baby, I hate to see you so lame. Let's quit this work stuff and we'll take a ride and buy you an ice cream."
As soon as "old sooner" jumps for joy and heads for the car, you've caught him "FLAGRANTE DELICTO." Point it right out to him and really rub it in. Dogs don't like to be made fun of... the embarrassment might cause a good laugh!
SEPARATION ANXIETY:
When you leave, your dog may become worried that you may not return. Or, because while you-are-gone, a visitor or disturbance of some sort may have come by--- causing a tense disruption.
EXAMPLE: "Every time I go out, my dog barks/whines, chews things, soils the house, etc. He's vindictive. He does it on purpose! I can't leave him alone! I can tell he knows he's done wrong just by the look on his face!"
SOLUTION: There could be several factors involved. If a dog is indiscriminately relieving himself in the house while you are gone, it could be caused by stress if you have been in the habit of scolding him for any mischief he had done in the past.
That could make him nervous enough that he needs to relieve himself every time you go out.
Or, it might be the result of barrier frustration, or just a negative attention getting device satisfied by your response upon return.
Don't fall victim to these tactics. Don't scold or make an issue out of these problems.
To cure separation anxiety, refer to the distraction technique in the section, "Using Sound to Correct Bad Behavior" and the Surrogate Toy Technique.
BARKING/BITING/CHEWING:
The command "OUT" is used to stop any behavior with the mouth. As we have discussed, the word "OUT" might ring "Pavlov's bell" if he was ever to have been corrected while with his mom and littermates.
When you use it to stop any misbehavior, especially something with the mouth, like chewing, aggressiveness or barking, it may get an instantaneous response.
One problem we often see is the dog's natural desire to protect his home and family being thwarted by his owners desire to raise him in a friendly atmosphere.
If, at the onset of each alarm the dog sounds, he is reprimanded for barking or showing aggression, then he may become overly anxious due to never having been validated for what he thinks is his obligation to protect the home.
EXAMPLE: "My dog barks at every sound he hears on the street, or when company comes. He's totally out of control. He won't shut up."
SOLUTION: As soon as he starts to bark, praise him.
This will validate him for doing a good job; one that he thinks is expected of him. Ask him "what's that?" and go look. Next, tell him "Out, it's O.K., friends." Upon commencement of his next bark, use the sound distraction technique. If that fails, ask him to come.
This should work very quickly to bring him under control.
CHEWING/RAIDING TRASH CANS/STEALING FOOD:
These are in the same category as "BARKING/ BITING/CHEWING" because they involve the mouth and may occur in your presence or behind your back.
The solution lies in extinguishing the misbehavior rather than avoiding the problem by means of hiding food out of reach or moving the trash can.
Don't reinforce the problem by becoming involved with it. If it occurs in your presence, address it, as you will any other behavior problem by utilizing the sound distraction techniques. Set aside some time to recreate and solve the problem PERMENANTELY and NEARLY INSTANTLY.
If this occurs when you are not there, here is what should happen:
EXAMPLE: You come home and the dog has chewed the woodwork, bedspread, shoes, trashcan, etc.
SOLUTION: Use the technique for curing separation anxiety to prevent this from happening. If it happens use the sound correction for dealing with problems after the fact, like this:
Don't become part of the problem by making a big scene out of it. The damage is already done.
Simply go over and subtly pick up a can, and casually walk over to the damaged area, calmly ask, "What's that?" as you drop the can and casually walk away, without speaking.
Clean up the damage when he is not in sight.
The can sounding without praise will emphatically tell him he shouldn't have done that and you won't be creating further problems by becoming involved. Often, just one correction like this is enough to solve the problem.
BALKING/SHYING/OBSTACLES:
Anyone would balk or become nervous when faced with an unusual or frightening obstacle. One of the biggest problems we have when the dog on leash balks or shies away from something is that we, through restraining him, or our body language or anxious behavior reinforces the dogs' fear about the situation.
If you negotiate an obstacle calmly and smoothly the dog will most likely follow your lead and continue through it with little difficulty.
Using proper handling techniques with the lead and the subtle use of allelomimetic behavior, even long ingrained phobias can be overcome in just minutes.
The bonding and sense of security that come with being properly on command can reassure and give confidence to even the most insecure animal.
EXAMPLE: "My dog is afraid to get into the car, elevator, boat ramp, etc."
SOLUTION: This is very common, and a major problem if it is your dog that won't go into the car or otherwise.
Usually the problem starts when he first balks, by the handler pulling on the leash and trying to force him inside.
REMEMBER... Any pushing or pulling on the dog's collar will trigger positive thigmotaxis, the opposition reflex, thus compelling exactly the behavior you wanted to avoid.
Handle the lead properly and ask him to go inside.
Face the direction you want him to go, and move forward. Praise immediately. If he balks, repeat the command with sound and praise again.
Usually it requires no more than two repetitions.
SIBLING RIVALRY: SIBLING RIVALRY???
YES. When you have more than one pet, or when you have children, this can be a big problem.
If you scold one sibling (children included) in front of the other(s), a natural resentment or jealousy is instigated. This is common with any peer group, adults as well, office workers, etc.
The others take this as an opportunity to follow your lead and use their authority to further humiliate or even attack the "trouble maker."
Given that scolding is a poor example of proper discipline, it need not be mentioned at this point.
EXAMPLE: "My dogs fight if they have a bone,
(or food, or a pat, etc.)."
SOLUTION: Set the example of proper leadership and don't engage in verbal arguments as our attitude will only be copied. And don't show physical attention to jealous dogs in front of each other.
Use all of these training techniques as a guide.
When you see an argument beginning, resort to praise. Praise? Yes. This will always be your first response to diffuse and solve a problem.
As always, avoid physical praise, as it will in this case create worse jealousy. If proper discipline and leadership are expressed, the dogs do not have an option to fight among themselves.
COMMUNICATION: Dogs can communicate in a variety of interesting ways. They often have a pretty good sense of humor, and are often caught in lies and deception. Dogs need not be as obvious as to bark to make known their wishes.
Sometimes, growling may only be an effort at vocalization, with no malice intended. Subtle attempts, like maybe a shuffle of feet, a wrinkle on the face or brow, panting or chatter of teeth, in the dog's mind, are clear-cut messages.
Take notice and he will do the rest. He will be consistent, although the same signals/signs/gestures may apply to several needs.
EXAMPLE: Your dog chatters his teeth. Look at him and say, "Good boy, what do you want?"
He may say, "It's about time you noticed me!"
SOLUTION: Ignore his sarcasm. Ask if he wants to do this, that, or the other thing, and when he gives a big sigh, DO IT!
I've quoted other dog trainers and authors on dog behavior in the misstatement that "dogs don't think." In light of the fact that I've also have quoted and subverted most of their training techniques as nonsensical and ineffective, let's not get boggled down in semantics.
My philosophy is based on experience and observation:
The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. By challenging our dogs to think, they develop the areas of the brain where thinking, rationalizing and solving problems occur.
DOMINANCE: Your dog needs dominance, MENTALLY, NOT PHYSICALLY.
Lacking proper direction, your dog must become dominant. It is survival. In the human family, as he expresses dominance, he realizes something is drastically wrong.
This causes insecurity and frustration, so any change in the household becomes intolerable.
Dogs have many different ways of expressing dominance, in subtle yet physical ways. Their objective may not be really to take over, but be aware that the casual standing on your foot may actually be one of their sly attempts at self-expression.
Forewarned is forearmed.
These attempts may be as subtle as nudging or covering you with a paw or chin, to actually mounting. In a mature dog, this could lead to more aggressive behavior.
When your dog comes over with a ball in his mouth, and drops it at your feet, and you stop to pick it up, he just established control.
Don't fall into his subtle trap.
Tell him he has to wait. Then, after a couple of minutes, when you pick it up, ask him if he wants to play ball. He's going to think, "How did you know I wanted to do that?" Then, it will be you initiating the lead, setting the role for him to follow.
10A. State Conditioned Learning
State Conditioned Learning is when we learn a particular skill under a particular circumstance or setting.
This may mean we may not have that behavior or skill readily available to the reflexive or kinesthetic memory system when we want to access that learned skill, behavior, or information, in another situation or setting, until it is GENERALIZED.
Kinda like trying to dial your own phone number.
In other words, every aspect of the environment and circumstances surrounding a learning situation is "linked" to the behavior or information we are studying.
For example, a college student studying for exams might drink excessive amounts of coffee, or have a couple of beers while studying. The next morning during the exam, the information learned while in the state of mind accessed while studying under the influence of caffeine or alcohol, is NOT ACCESSIBLE to the student, unless opened up, with the same amount of caffeine or alcohol as used during the learning process the night before.
That's HOWE COME it's often recommended to study and take notes with the exact same pen you'll be using to take an exam.
These SMALL CRITERIA add up to BIG ADVANTAGES or BIG LOSSES, when it comes down to the nut cutting.
As dog trainers, it is important to bring as many of the peripheral attributes of the learning environment into play when trying to repeat a learned behavior in another setting or circumstance.
This USUALLY REQUIRES repetition of the learning process in four different environments, to GENERALIZE the idea or behavior.
Scientific conditioning is enhanced and memory is more easily accessed, when more details are added to the learning situation, hence the more generalized the information or behavior will become.
That's why when training your dog it BEHOOVES YOU to use both hand signals and voice commands AT THE SAME TIME.
This will create more "memory locator tags" to the learned behavior. Pulling down any ONE memory locator tag pulls down ALL of the associated memory.
Distractions are considered by MOST trainers to be a detriment in the early stages of training.
THAT'S INSANE.
Learning with many stimuli of the environment makes for a more quickly and deeply ingrained behavior.
Many behaviors are what we call state dependent, i.e., depending on the circumstances and environment we've learned something in, repeating or eliminating as many similar but different stimuli mimicking the first instance the behavior was elicited, will facilitate generalizing the behavior and will make it happen for you...
Bear in mind, the "territory" extends well beyond the physical plane.
The state of mind, or emotional conditions at the time the behavior was learned, will also have the same usefulness, if we recognize and access or avoid accessing, such states of mind.
This is HOWE COME so many of our "expert" trainers here encounter failure in the trial ring, because they are NOT ALLOWED to use the force, corrections and equipment they've used while training the dog initially. They're not accessing that same state of fearfulness or intimidation in the dogs' mind where the lessons have been stored.
LIKE THIS:
Chris Williams writes:
"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual I do find valuable. Much of it I recognize as what I've always done without thinking of it as "training". New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased the last of Mac's fireworks trauma,"
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10B.T raining Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct
Everyone agrees dogs are territorial creatures of habit, that's HOWE COME we can train them.
The environment they are in has much bearing on HOWE the dog will respond to a stimulus, based on his appreciation of the area as "his territory" or "his or toy"his people," etc., as well as his past habits regarding those behaviors, such as door charging or bolting, toy and food guarding, protectiveness, aggression, barking, and just about every command or issue you'll always need to deal with.
These behaviors are reinforced in his environment or territory, and therefore may not be EZ to change without changing his environment.
Removing the dog from his familiar territory, or taking him to "neutral grounds" as is often recommended for introducing a dog to get along with a new dog in your home, or taking the dog to a different area to train, if he has difficulty maintaining control in his own area, is the same idea as I'm getting at here...
Keep in mind that when we teach a command or extinguish a habit we need to generalize the area. That's HOWE COME taking a dog to neutral territory to meet and new dog works, because we've got no habituated or other proprietary issues to consider.
Let's say your dog bolts or charges through, or sneaks out the front door. He's already got a history of doing that and has a history of not coming back once he's made the break.
Or let's say, you've got a dog who guards her bone or toy or any other object, and won't let you remove it.
Or maybe we've got a dog who's just very protective of guests coming in the home or backyard. Every incident you've encountered with these behaviors has further reinforced the behaviors, so by the time you recognize that you've got to address the issues, they're already long ingrained, and it's likely to take more effort to retrain or break the habits.
So, when we begin to address a behavior, taking the dog out of his familiar territory will break much of his reflexive behaviors based on his past experiences with those behaviors.
Let's say we're talking about the dog bolting out the front door. If we attempt to break him of going through your front door where he is already habituated to bolting through on occasion, we would be complicating our efforts were we to begin with teaching the concept of NOT bolting through doors using his own front door as a starting point.
Take the dog out of the environment he is familiar with and the habit will no longer have the same old "triggers" associated with it.
Try working the exercise from a neutral territory, maybe another door in another room of your house.
Maybe ask a friend whom the dog is not familiar with their home, if you can visit for an hour with your dog to teach him not to go out of the door.
That will give you a strong likelihood that you can quickly and easily change his approach to thinking about doors in general. After just a few demonstrations to the dog, any door is just a door, not to be to challenged passed or through without permission.
The same approach would be effective for teaching a shy or aggressive dog to accept guests in the house.
If he's not aggressive toward people when he's outside at the park, then it makes sense the reason he'd be aggressive in his own back yard or inside his house, is because he is territorially protecting his environment.
Taking him into another similar but different environment, will likely negate his sense of ownership, and diminish his past reinforcement of the protective behavior..., so that new behaviors can be conditioned without the protective thoughts that have been associated and reflexes conditioned over time.
Same goes for the toy or bone or food guarding. He's likely to have reflexive behaviors to someone trying to touch his dish or bone.
Taking him to neutral territory, like maybe feeding him in another room while initially working with taking the dish or article away from him in an environment he is not familiar with, will negate his past behavior and his reinforced successes at keeping the object.
Example: if your dog is possessive of his bone, take three bones with you on a somewhat long walk. Give him one as you're casually moving along, and awhile later as you continue walking, offer him the second, and keep moving slowly forward.
He's likely to want to give you the first to get the new one, and so forth. Then, go to another environment the next time and do the same.
Many behaviors are what we call state dependent, i.e., depending on the circumstances and environment in which we've learned something.
Repeating or eliminating as many similar but different stimuli mimicking the first instance the behavior was elicited, will facilitate generalizing the behavior and will make it happen for you...
Bear in mind, this "territory" extends well beyond the physical plane. The state of mind, or emotional conditions at the time the behavior was learned, will also have the same usefulness, if we recognize and access or avoid accessing, such states of mind...
But then again, if you just follow the TECHNIQUES taught here you'll CONDITION ANY BEHAVIOR NEARLY INSTANTLY no matter WHAT the past experience has been.
LIKE THIS:
From: Momi...@webtv.net (misty) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:29:09 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: Jerry, why non-physical praise?
Beth wrote: > So, jerry's techniques didnt' work for Peach?
Never had a chance to try them on her... I was still using the e-fence and chains to keep her in the yard.
The suggestions I received here to keep Peach home were: build a fence... wasn't going to happen.. we plan on putting a modular home here within the next few years... put more fence at the top of the pen I used so both dogs could play bitey face w/o tangling, and similar suggestions.
Jerry was the only one to mention border training... but he was kook supreme ;-P So I ignored him... no killfiles with webtv.. at that time Jerry had his own troll, somewhat like Candace, so the group was not very conducive to learning anything.
At one point I even b*tched about Jerry.
By the time I tried out Jerry's manual Peach had already ran away.
Not very good at the google groups search but you'll find my first post at "runaway dog message 30" within that thread is mention of the dogs taking off and being gone for 2 days. I stopped posting for a bit... my middle boy was devastated that his dog was gone... Zelda came home but not her mom.
The next few posts from me were ones about/to Jerry.
Then Jerry made the WETM accessible for webbes, I put it in my e-mail (no storage otherwise on webby unless you put stuff on a webpage) and read it, read it and read it.
Once I understood what the concept was, I implemented it on Zelda. It worked and I now have a great housedog!
I only regret that my own distrust of Jerry caused me to lose another wonderful dog. Peach was an absolute gem with little kids. I and my boys still miss her. Sometimes I still look to see if she came home when we get back from trips.
Maybe Peach would still have ran away... I don't know and never will....
~misty
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From: "Jerry Howe" <jho...@bellsouth.net> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:16:59 -0500 Subject: Re: Jerry, why non-physical praise?
Peach would be there sittin pretty had our pals not given you a bum steer cause they're EMBARRASSED and AFRAID of losing their careers and reputations....
Stick around, we're just startin to have FUN learning and sharing...J;~)
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"misty" <Momi...@webtv.net wrote in message news
I don't now whether Peach is dead or alive. I do know she's not here with us. I really can't blame anyone here for her loss.
I'm the one who ignored your advice. I did it because of how you write/wrote. I was unwilling to accept the idea that my using a shock collar could have any bearing on Peach not wanting to stay home.
Up until I started using it my main concern had been keeping my dogs in their own yard.
Once I started using the e-fence... well, then my concern became how to keep them from running off for days on end.
I lost valuable training time becoming embroiled in the anti-shock debate and the "Jerry sux" tirades.
I lost one dog but I have the bestest dog in the world now <g> A Wits End Trained dog, one who is completely housetrained, doesn't chew up stuff, stays in the yard, and doesn't bark all the time.
IOW a great companion and friend.
Thanks Jerry!
---------------
misty" <Momi...@webtv.net> wrote in message
We just installed a PetSafe brand fence this Spring. Two dogs, two collars We now have one dog and no collars.
Peach and Zelda would run thru the fence, not want to come back in the yard and would run for days.
The last time, Peach didn't come back home.
I used the Wit's End Training Manual to learn how to train my dog. She is now border trained. A few minutes each day reinforces her desire to stay in the yard.
She no longer runs out into the road, I can stop her from chasing cats and she no longer cringes when we walk around the yard.
I can not say loud or long enough how much I hate the e-fence and its collars. If you can't get a regular fence then you need to train your dog.
I will never rely on an electronic collar to keep my dog in our yard again.
The price was too high:-( ~misty
--------------------------------
"misty" <Momi...@webtv.net> wrote in message
Hi Cathy!
Yes I used The Wits End Method to train my girl, Zelda. You can check the archives and see I'm a real person..
I post in misc.kids.breastfeeding, alt.cats rec.pets.cats.annecdotes
(not lately, my kitty died) rec.pets.dogs.behavior rec.pets.birds and a ton of webtv firewalled ngs.
Zelda and her mom, Peach (RB) both loved to run the neighborhood with my neighbors 2 male dogs. An e-fence couldn't keep them home, chains pulled up and Peach could jump/climb a 5 ft. fence.
I wrote in here for advice and felt like Jerry had jumped down my throat. Upon re-reading his post to me..well..it hit home hard that I was being abusive to my dog.
The thought of shocking my dog ever again makes me want to puke.
Like I've said before... I might not like the way Jerry treats some of the other posters but he gave me ( for _free_) a way to teach myself and my dog.
I can let Zelda outside and not worry that a potty break will mean she'll be gone for 2 days or, worse yet, not ever come home...like her mom.
Zelda stopped chewing everything in sight once I started applying Jerry's methods. One time of "bad slipper!" and she never chewed another one up :-D
I don't post here a lot because I don't ave any problems needing solved. I do join in occasionally or post informative lnks. I just feel that my limited experience precludes me from jumping in every thread <shrug> but I do read all of them.
If you want my phone number, e-mail me. We would have to set up a time because I'm on the webbie a lot and we only have 1 phone line.
~misty
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
"misty" <Momi...@webtv.net> wrote in message
You can check Google for my posting history... here, breeds, cats, kids and birds... and I have a dog who doesn't : chew inappropriate items , jump on people, counter-surf, be aggressive, bark too much, get in the garbage no matter what yummy morsel is waiting, can be left overnight in the house w/o pottying or any of the above... no, she has no titles other than beloved pet.. but that is enough for me.
Yes, some dogs are just good dogs but... Zelda used to destroy stuff..kids toys, stuffed animals, shoes, and even my pillow. She would pee in the house. She would go on barking jags because the neighbor's dogs were barking.
Byusing Jerry's manual I worked things out... I got rid of the crate and put the kibosh on plans of getting another shock collar (for e-fence) and had a plan to follow which trained Zelda to stay in her yard and not go roaming with her buddies.
Zelda came ito my life as a 3-4 month old pup who lived outside, ran free and had never been inside.
We adopted her and then her mom, spayed both and tried to cope with one dog who refused to stay home... jumped fences, broke chains and finally chewed off collar to be able to go go go.
Peach didn't come back the last time.
Zelda started out running off with her mm and her buddies.. she continued to do so until I did the step by step plan Jerry's manual outlines.
She stays home... she doesn't chew up stuff and she is 1000% housebroken.
Again.. Jerry might be "crazy" but his methods work and they are free...
~misty
-------------
AND LIKE THIS:
From: Nevyn (greatd...@badmama.com.au) Subject: Re: radio fence Date: 2003-11-05 04:17:45 PST
Hi folks,
In my opinion the use of a radioshock fence is a waste of time, effort or money. I can understand it if you a rich snob who cares nothing about their dogs safey or behaviours.
At work I boundary train all the dogs to the bricked area
(Four kennels with 26 cages with 1 dog in each, 1 services building and 2 catterys which is surrounded by scrubland to the east and woodlands to the north and a lake to the west).
This works well, because then when people buy them the dogs are easier to boundary train to a door or fence or yard.
However on a personal note, my two shelter mutts, who I trained using the WITS END DOG MANUAL available at www.doggydoright.com will not go past the back door, or the back gate or the front gate without permission.
And it is nice, for when you are having a party, you can leave your gates open for people, and your dogs won't be the least concerned.
I find this better then spending your well earned money on a piece of junk Why not use it to invest in a horse? Or a new house? Make a nice aquarium? Build a nursery for a child?
Save your money. Train your dog. Please. -- Thankyou, Nevyn
Nevyn E.D. Veterinary Nurse & Animal Trainer greatd...@badmama.com.au "You can judge a man's heart by his treatment of animals" __________________________________
AND LIKE THIS:
Here's Nevyn, my Student from Austrailia, now a professional trainer:
"Nevyn" <greatd...@badmama.com.au> wrote in message
HOWEDY Group,
Here some SUCCESS STORIES ive had using JERRY'S MANUAL
1) My dogz, two bitches - Vicious, barking, aggressive, pulled on leash, wanted to kill any dogs they saw, fought between each other. TWO WEEKS using Jerry's manual, they were calm, friends, my companions.
2) ADDED A BEAGLE PUPPY (male) to my "PACK", the girls had -NO PROBLEMS- with him from the moment I dropped him by their noses.
3) My FRIENDS dogs 2 MALES barking and jumping at the fence all night 3 DAYS TRAINING WITH JERRY'S MANUAL they were CALMED AND HAVEN'T BARKED ONCE!
Added a NEW MALE DOG (2 yrs old) AND WELCOMED HIM WITH NO WUCKAS !
4) POODLE that ATE food from the KITCHEN BENCH - lock him in a box? NO! USE JERRYS MANUAL! 4 DAYS AND HES NEVER DONE IT SINCE!
5) ABUSED DOGS AT THE SHELTER I WORK AT - HAD TO BE FED WITH A BUCKET ON A STICK - ONE WEEK ON JERRYS MANUAL, THE SUPERVISOR TOLD ME TO PUT THEM IN THE PUBLIC KENNELS FOR SALE !
Quite amazing to - I thought they were just dull coloured dogs, but after I had removed the fear and anxiety their hairs coloured up amazingly.
6) STAFFY FEMALE who would NOT DROP HER BALL! She carried it around all day and night - 3 DAYS on jerrys MANUAL and she now DROPS it when u ASK her to!
BWHWHAHAHAHAAHA !!!!
Nevyn
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10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind
Here's a valuable tool you may use on your dogs, your mates, your children, your employee's, anyone, anytime, anywhere at all.
We're going to look at setting or linking a favorable state of mind to a cue of some sort, and triggering that state of mind, when circumstances are appropriate or when changing the state of mind of our dogs, children, mates, etc., is desirable.
We may use any kind of a cue, signal, sound, touch, whatever, just so long as it is consistent and EXACT, for use with the same state of mind we are looking to access.
Additionally, we may link several states of mind to each other, and trip them one at a time in succession, to develop a highly charged thought pattern.
Here's HOWE it works. Picture a beautiful scenario. Develop that thought to the extent you actually feel you are there on that beach or mountain top.
When you think you can smell the sea breeze or mountain air, touch a spot on your body that you will always use to access that state of mind.
Next, add a favorite companion or other accouterment, and when that thought is fully developed, touch another spot to use as a trigger point. Continue to add mental stimuli to this visualization technique.
Be sure you only set the trigger point when each thought is fully visualized and felt. Use all of your senses during this visualization and anchoring process.
Then, take a momentary break, think about something totally different, something irrelevent, like what did you have for breakfast yesterday. Then repeat the exercise being sure to use the correct scenarios with the corresponding trigger points, with as much joy and pleasure as you can muster.
Repeat the process a few times. The benefit is about to be seen, as you try to use this conditioned state of mind for a practical purpose.
Perhaps use it to dispose of a thought or feeling of something distasteful or fearful, a boogyman, if you will. When you reach that thought of the "boogeyman," trigger the first point and proceed to the next and then the next.
You'll feel the stressor collapse, you'll find yourself no longer accessing the state of dread, the next time this boogyman raises it's ugly head.
And if it ever does, just touch the anchor points and they'll collapse it once again.
You can use this technique to overcome any kind of fears or phobias or aggression your dog has.
To use this on your dog, you've got to catch him in the act of REALLY enjoying himself or really occupied in a state of mind, to install the triggers.
Just be sure to condition the state of mind using the exact same trigger mechanisms linking one or more drives or emotions to carry the idea over into a command.
Do that with praise and timing in conjunction with the commands, even if the dog has made a mistake.
He is obligated to "catch up" with the flow, or be left out of the excitement.
Do that by praising every eye contact, even if it's only a momentary glance.
When that dog looks over at you, you gotta be praising him like he did something great. That way the dog is always expecting lots of positive attention, and he knows HOWE to get it when he starts feeling like doing something like getting into mischief... It's a safe way the dog can pull your strings and not interrupt your routine to get some attention.
The praise can be substituted with a hand signal like the international O.K. sign, or even a wink. My dogs will wink at me when they want to get cute or make me laugh...
10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training
I've got my dogs behind a four foot fence. They'll jump that fence as though it weren't there at all. The fence doesn't keep them in, their training does.
If I want them to hop the fence, no problem. My front windows are open. They can just walk right through, if they want. Why don't they just go?
I want them to stay, that's why they don't split.
Use the sound distraction and praise technique to teach your dog your borders. Teach him not to go within three feet of the fence ANYWHERE in the yard.
You'll need to be judicious about alternating the direction of the sound, never twice in succession from the same direction. And you'll need to be cautious about NOT accidentally making a sound.
If you should (and you probably will) accidentally create a sound, THAT COUNTS. FOLLOW the technique and use that accidental sound as though it were intentional...don't break the progression of events, even from one day to the next.
Casually walk about the yard, and as the dog approaches the three foot border, create the sound and praise profusely for five to fifteen seconds as you step back, and then casually move on towards that spot again, and repeat.
Go through the yard randomly approaching the borders and make the sound from you on one occasion, and from the ground in front of him on the next occasion.
Make the sound at a spot praising and stepping back ALL AT THE SAME TIME and move forward and repeat and continue working each spot straight on, back and forth, until she no longer approaches that spot as you approach it.
Go round like that addressing each spot where he violates the three foot border until he won't cross the border.
BE SURE TO PRAISE WHEN HE RECOGNIZES THAT SPOT AND THINKS OF GOING OVER IT... don't TRY to make him violate it, let him attempt to trespass on his own
Increase your speed as you develop confidence in the technique... then, when you KNOW he won't violate the spot while you're in the yard with him, leave him there, and go outside the fence and work the same routine, luring him *(without TELLING HIM) to violate the border ONLY BECAUSE YOU are approaching the fence.
Once you see that he remains steady as you move straight forward and back to "lure" him forward into the fence WITHOUT ENCOURAGING HIM to trespass, you are then ready to eyeball him from inside the house or outside the fence, until you know he won't go over the border.
Repeat the procedure a couple times a day for a couple of days, and that's the end of that story.
If you did everything correctly, he won't challenge the fence. For the future, observe him and at the first sign that he is willing to violate the border, repeat the procedure and you'll be fine.
Now, that's to teach him not to go out. What you should do, in order to settle him so he has no desire to go out, is to do the heeling pattern exercise in part 2 of the manual.
It'll take you three or four short sessions to get the exercise learned properly. Then, do a five minute session daily or every other day for about a week, and then once every three days for a few weeks just to keep him balanced.
The heeling exercise is POWERFUL MEDICINE.
I've seen extremely nervous or shy or aggressive dogs totally overcome their phobias with ONLY THAT as a remedy in about ONE HOWER.
LIKE THIS:
"Leprechaun" <Leprech...@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:m01Hc.20882$uK.16329@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
>Jerry believes he's a dog trainer.
Fortunately, I happen to believe he is too. I took a rescued three year old beagle that had been kept outside all of its life that didn't even recognize or respond to its name to Jerry's home (That ugly cinder block shack??? get real) and in just over one hour of working with the dog, he was coming on command
(not a quickly as he does now, but still...) and walking with us on a loose lead.
His "hot/cold" exercise and "come when called" command and pack exercise WORK!
> and in all likelihood he's never even been near a dog.
Well, he's been near mine, and done wonders for him.
You don't have to like him. You don't have to agree with his methods, but as far as I am concerned, I've never seen any other training approach that was as fast and easy.
<<<< Rest of original post deleted >>>>
Ron Flanagan Orlando, Florida
-----------------------
AND LIKE THIS:
"Zack Pellers" <ZackPell...@GUESSWHERE.cc> wrote in message dlin...@towson.edu (Derek) wrote in news:
697700b8.0405202039.5c737...@posting.google.com:
Your dog needs to be retrained. Contact Mr. Jerry Howe.
You can start by downloading the free training manual available on the site above. I used it on my 4 year old Fila Brasileiro.
When I first brought him home from rescue, he was similar to the way you decribed your dog. After using Mr. Howe's training method, the dog was cured within 72 hours.
-Jack
--------------------
Valerie wrote in on 5/31 with a 3 y.o. Dalmatian who'd spent two years in a shelter gettin beat up by other dogs.
When Val took him to her HOWES he became aggressive to dogs and children and snapped at her when she tried to stop him from attacking.
Val writes Monday, 6/3/02:
Well, for what it's worth, I am praising without physical contact and she does seem to listen better than when I would praise with it. I agree that it is a distraction.
Anyway, no more aggressive behaviors from her since I started the Wits' End on 5/31.
-------------
From: Seeing Spots \(Val\) (Holme...@worldnet.att.net) Subject: Re: Dear Wits End Date: 2002-06-04 18:19:07 PST
HEY!!!
There is a Valid Valerie with a REAL Dalmatian who is a real sweet dog with a few issues that I am working to resolve after adopting her from a shelter she spent 2 years in.
All I want is to get some decent help for my dog.
There is some decent stuff in Jerry's manual. My dog has ACTUALLY been responding to her training. The deal is you have to seperate your opinions and impressions from the guy who is writing these posts and take from the manual what you want.
Personally, I get a pretty good chuckle out of the whole Jerry thing. I have to say the guy is pretty clever, you're letting him get under your skin.
It makes for a very amusing game I think.
I'm sure he would agree, or he wouldn't be playing everyday. He also wouldn't be playing if he didn't believe that his method of training weren't valid.
Perhaps I'll learn from my mistakes, but so far, using the Wits' End, I have gotten my dalmatian to listen to me, to look to me for direction, to wait for me to say when.
I have changed her from an aggressive dog to one who is willing to please her owner, willing to listen, willing to assume her role in the pack.
The real Valerie M. Holmes speaking
P.S. Jerry, don't get any ideas about morphing into me, ok?
-----------------
THIS CONCLUDES PART ONE OF
THE *777* Edition W.E.D.T.M. MANUAL
ALL temperament and behavior problems are
CAUSED BY MISHANDLING.
PART II
1. Obedience
We'll be approaching our obedience training programas a piecemeal quilt puzzle; that is to say, that any one point has got to fit within the entire context, and as you develop skills, you may "mix and match" commands to suit your needs or situation at that moment.
But we do have a procedure that is very much like the kind of steps you would follow as though you were starting your car or computer system. These steps are like your keys to your car or password to your files. It's unlikely that your dog, when trained, will listen to anyone that does not approach the "control panel" to his mind, without the "keys" imbedded in this
series of commands.
He'll understand that anyone asking business of him is not approved, without "them keys."
Practice on a daily basis should not exceed four minutes to accomplish the exercises.
Practice needs to be performed at least every second day. With problem dogs, this is critical.
If you are using this training to suffice your dog's emotional needs, whether it be anxiety from separation, aggression, or stress from any source, the benefits of this exercise will wear off in three days, at least until some time down the road.
Also, dogs do tend to forget a lesson if it has not been re-enforced for several days. After the initial training period, practice may be limited to once a week.
When your dog becomes fully trained and his behavior is not an issue or goal for improvement, a brief exercise should be formally done once a week, later once a month.
We are going to give your pet 100% of your undivided positive attention, in an intense, four-minute exercise which will have the benefit of exercising the dominant and submissive nature of your dog's personality.
These "natures of your dog's personality" are easily accessed through the positions and postures physically in relationship to your position, as you and your dog perform your obedience routines.
Each position will elicit particular sorts of body language from your dog (and vice versa, so act natural). If you pay close attention you can determine how well or not your dog is relating to you.
Each exercise or command in the following text will articulate what must be paid close attention and how to make this knowledge work for you and your dog.
We have special routines to break stress and tension as well as methods to express dominance and elicit and enforce strict, exacting discipline.
You will develop a feel for these as you progress through this system.
The METHOD GUARANTEES total non physical control but you've got to give up forced control entirely or you'll be challenging the dog and you'll learn the hard way, "I told you so."
Any time you are in doubt about what your next move should be, just relax, take your time to review in your mind the exercise you are performing, and then execute the correct move.
Everything has a particular progression. Try not to stop while working through any of the exercises or you'll CONfHOWEND your dog.
Admittedly, this is a complicated system. HOWEver, there is no need to worry about mastering the technique and psychology involved right away.
It will become very clear as you begin to work on it. Just as we will expect your dog to learn something new with practice, you too will develop a sense for what we are doing, but only with practice. You'll develop a feel for what we're doing as will your dog. The pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, and,like a jigsaw puzzle, you start by dumping the whole
thing out in front of you and then try to put it in some sort of order.
Think of our method like that puzzle. Keep in mind also that things change here, according to what has been mastered.
2. Ask Your Dog To Work
We'll start with a preliminary command to set the tone for our lesson. Ask your dog if he would like to go to work. Do so in an upbeat manner, with a questioning tone, as you lean or step backward just a little bit, praising all the while. (For more details on this, see the "Hot and Cold" exercise, in Part I of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)
We don't care if he wants to "go to work" or not.
He's going to, but we would do much better if he were looking forward to enjoying it.
This does not mean we're going to play, because just as soon as you finish this phrase "Do you want to go to work? Good boy," you're going to follow through with his next command to come to order.
2A. Back To Work
"Back to work," is his next command, it's rather like the command "attention" in the military. It
functions as a tool we can utilize to command his attention under emergency conditions as well as for daily requests to come to order...
"Back to work" is to be followed in the same breath, without pausing or hesitating, with the forthcoming commands, while at the same time giving the hand signals and foot signals.
It's going to seem much like rubbing your head and patting your stomach at the same time.
There are several events that are going to take place one after the other, quickly in succession.
Your hand and foot signals will coincide with the voice commands. It's crucial that signals and voice commands all coincide, as your dog will be learning all of these at once.
2B. Stay
The "stay" command is very complicated. There are two hand signals and a foot signal as well as, of course, your voice command. It changes depending on whether you are at the side or "heel" position, or at a distance in front of him, or whether you are leaving his side with him remaining behind, or if you are returning toward him.
Don't worry about anything other than the hand signal from the side at this point.
Leaving your dog on the stay command is covered later. It's simple, but get used to the basics first.
Stay from the side is a sweeping motion with your left hand coming forward, high from above your elbow, fingers together, as if to touch the tip of your middle finger to the top of your dogs nose, being careful to keep your hand from breaking into your dogs vision directly over his head.We don't need to be close, just in the line of peripheral vision at about 15 degrees his snout.
Give it high and forward of your body. Follow through by bringing your hand back up and sweeping it around toward your chest, placing your left wrist at your dog's right shoulder, as you place your palm on his breast bone, as you pat him once or twice, and continue into the "sit straight" (or "stand straight" or "down straight") command, described below.
What I'm trying to show is the stay signal comes in high in front and is brief.The hand then recedes high in an arch towards the handler before coming into the dog's chest parallel to his right shoulder.
The idea being that we don't want to lean over the dog to set his chest, neck, and head. It's a defensive position as some dogs may snap, that's why we're calming them in the forthcoming moves.
2C. Sit From The Side
Sit from the side involves just the hand and voice signals. The left palm comes up, until your elbow is bent ninety degrees. In due course, all you'll need to do is cup your palm. But for now, let's make it easy for your dog to notice.
Sounds pretty easy so far, so let's throw in some body language to make you THINK harder!.
Before your dog has completed any command in these series, the next command in that series will be issued. We will do this slowly, so that your dog can think out what you are asking yet moving into the next phase before the prior has been completed.
Not too slowly, but not too fast.
You're going to be leading and directing his attention, rather than his body. His body will follow his attention and thoughts. When you are ready to begin the "return to heel command,"
get a visual fix on a landmark, so as to be sure to orient yourselves correctly after your dog has completed sitting.
At the beginning, we'll not worry too much about this orientation, or for that matter, any orientation, but it will quickly become extremely important to be precise.
Your hand signal for "return to heel" is with your left index finger, pointing to the ground just behind your left side, as you look down and back, toward where your finger is pointing.
Leaning your weight on your right foot, so as to facilitate the movement of your left foot signal,
just about one half step backward, not too far so as to lose balance, but enough to get your
dog inspired to move.
This is an action command, and the motion you use will help start your dog's movement.
At the same time your left foot moves, your hand signal and eyes will be pointing and moving in sync with your foot, as your upper body twists, just kind of a quarter turn left twist of your upper body as your foot moves, and back to forward.
"Back to work, heel, good boy, nice dog, sit, stay, good dog" said all in one breath without pausing. That's your voice command to get him to the return to heel position.
When this series has finished, and while you are still saying "good dog," you'll need to pat him, just once or twice on his chest, as you give him his next command to "sit straight," and adjust his front square at your side by lifting his weight by his breast bone, and move his
front just a little, as you help (actually cheat), by adjusting yourself at the same time to be square at the heel position.
Next, run your hand from his breast bone up under his throat, to his chin, at which point you'll repeat your stay signal, as you run your hand down one side of his body from the left shoulder down along his ribs. Then the right side, then, to one front foot, then the next.
You'll see later. We're looking for PRECISION and RELAXATION. EVERY THING is crucial, from asking for the sit straight to even the point on the compass you're oriented towards, and even picking up and relasing your dog's paws, to getting the PERFECT WORKING DOG EVERY TIME.
2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel
The heel position means your dog's shoulders must be parallel to your knees and he should have ONE EYE and ONE EAR attending to YOU and the other eye and ear attending to the environment. It signifies PARTNERSHIP, working together as a TEAM or PACK, like a couple of buddies goin down the street together. Return to heel is the means by which he arrives there, kinda like coincidentally meetin your pal on the street and shaking hands and joining up to a walk to a spot you can relax and enjoy some conversation.
Both commands are action words and require movement on your part to teach your dog what it means. The voice command for both tasks is the same.
The movement of your left foot and the direction you point your index finger and direct your eyes do change, depending whether you are going to move forward on the heel, or to have your dog return at your side to resume the heel position.
It is imperative that your dog return to the heel position in the manner described herein. Many guides to training for the obedience ring, schutzhund, and police dog training will permit your dog to return to the heel position by moving himself around behind the handler, coming in toward your right side and around to your left, from behind you.
Avoid allowing him to return BEHIND you, as it is likely to create problems.
Likewise, if you allow your dog to "come" when called and resume his place at your side, you're looking for trouble, although it is allowed in other "trainers" methods.
Every detail is important for matters only your dog (and The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard) understands at this time!
The return to heel is done entirely on the left side. If he circles into the left side in a clockwise direction, he's avoiding looking up at you, giving you his dominant side. If he's turning in a counterclockwise direction he's looking up at you ready to work willingly.
UNLESS he's "left handed". That's rare, but it does happen.
The come command is important as it causes a sense of subordination and dominance in the front, and partnership in the return to heel.
Familiarity breeds contempt...We want to keep it formal but not "STRICT" in the dominence sense of the word, to instill discipline.
The heel position is one of equality. It's as if you were to go out to the field to hunt. You would heel your dog to an area you want to search and then give him his opportunity to do his dog thing.
At the moment you send him off to search, he's taken the position of leader. Once he makes his find, he gives that job back to you. You fire, and he's in charge again. He gets his bird, and brings it back to you and gives it up to his leader.
Then he gets another chance to repeat this performance.
It's a 50/50 proposition. That's where we'd like to start.
Fair, 50/50. But first, we still have to finesse the command sequence to get there.
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbousie@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Re: Leash pulling was Re: Prong Collars
Date: 2001-01-25 22:03:02 PST
Getting a dog to walk to heel is really a matter of getting the dog to want to be with you. You have to be able to command the dogs attention whenever you ask of it. If the dog is pulling on a leash and you call it and it ignores you then the problem is not the leash pulling but a lack of attention on the dogs part, which in turn is due to a lack of basic training.
Once you can command the dogs attention anytime then you can work on other exercises including walking to heel.
Teach your dog the heel command so it sits or stands to heel while your standing still then move onto a walking heel. Soon as you move forward with your left foot say "heel" and praise
immediately, get and hold the dogs attention take a few steps then turn right angles and take a few more steps all the time praising and coaxing.
If the dog breaks the heel ask him to "come" so he sits in front of you then ask for a heel so it is heeling beside you then move forward again with the left leg while saying heel. Read Jerry's manual there's a good section on teaching heel in there, it may seem long winded but if you want a really good heel it's necessary.
Practicing the heel should be fun for both of you. When I was teaching Sam and now when I give him refresher lessons he loves the heeling exercises, I don't need a leash any more and
he will stick by my side as I turn left and right and stop etc, he gets very excited and jumps up without breaking the heel.
I really don't think it's necessary to use anything other than a flat buckle collar and a lead, both Sam and Roz were devout pullers but they are both fine now.
Paul
From: Paul B
Date: Sun, Feb 25 2001 3:54 am
Email: "Paul B" <NOSPAMpaulbousie.@clear.net.nz>
Groups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Just another idea that helped me working with Roz.
Using the exercises I described in the copied thread she stopped pulling but was reluctant to stay beside me at heel for very long, she would drift off to the left or drop back or sniff something etc.
I got tired of reminding her to "heel" all the time and eventually decided to let her do her own thing and I would "heel" to her.
As she veered left so did I making sure I was keeping her in the heeling position even though she was effectively leading me, if she slowed or anything I did the same always keeping her at the heel position.
She soon started glancing at me so I said "good girl" everytime she paid me attention and I kept saying " good heel" to her even though it was me heeling.
This stumped her, she couldn't shake me and very soon accepted that if she was on leash I was beside her.
The next step was for me to slowly take control of our direction, it actual fact it didn't take long at all, just a couple or 3 sessions.
--
Obedience and affection are not related, if they were everyone would have obedient dogs.
Paul
---------------------
Try this sequence without your dog, but with your leash in your hands and in the privacy of the most comfortable place you can find. If you are fortunate enough to have a friend or family member interested enough to help out, give them the script to follow, and have them read to you and supervise the details.
=========
Disciple Paulie Sez: "No One Understands How Wits End Training Really Works, They Assume It's All Nicey Nicey And don't Realise It's A Very Disciplined Method That Deals With Any Situation And The Foundation Is Built On Trust And Understanding."
Disciple Paulie Writes:
I've never forced my dogs to do anything, I tell them they are good dogs and they seem to follow me, once I told them they were bad dogs and they ran away from me, now I only ever tell them they are good dogs and they always are, always.
Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say "good dog" sincerely at the end of the
request and I bet you'll find your dog thinking then responding everytime.
A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies to every aspect of the relationship with
your dog.
Obedience and affection are not related, if they were everyone would have obedient dogs.
Paul.
-----------------------------
Paul B <pand...@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message
news:3c638e36@clear.net.nz...
"James Roberts" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:3C637444.20DD6735@privacy.net...
> I have downloaded and have read Jerry's
> Wit's End document. Ignoring what you
> think of his participation, what is your
> assessment of the merits of his techniques?
Hello James,
I have used his recommended techniques and ideas with great success, and over the period I've used these methods the more I've become to understand and appreciate how his methods work and how effective they can be if carried out correctly.
His manual isn't conventional and as such gets critisized and misunderstood. The basic concept is to allow the dog to choose whatever behaviour it wants for any situation but to distract (and immediately praise ) it from behaviours we deem undesirable, because of the correctly timed distractions repeated usually about 4 times (in each location) the dog
decides of it own accord that this behaviour is undesriable and therefore pursues something else, if that behaviour is also inappropriate to us then we carry on distracting, very soon the dog finds a behaviour that is mutually acceptable.
The benefits of this type of approach are numerous,
Firstly we aren't challenging the dog so there is no conflict so the dog does't develop any possible negativity to us, the dog decides of it own free will that a behaviour is unsatisfying so chooses to cease it (in other words even if we are gone the dog won't have any desire to pursue that behaviour i.e. bin raiding etc).
I would recommend his manual.
Paul
--------------------------
When you're ready to try working this on your dog, only try the command sequence once or twice, and then tell him he's "free."
"You're free" is a command just as important as heel or sit. It tells him he can relax. Make it
sound like the umpire who says, "Play ball!" Don't forget to smile and say, "Good boy."
Review in your mind how your dog took to this and how you performed your commands. Don't worry about making your dog actually perform his commands. We have plenty of time to teach him, and you both are just getting used to many different stimuli.
It's impossible for you to make mistakes at this time.
In other words, if your dog doesn't know what you want, then he won't realize when you have
made a mistake. And besides, you're in charge, and can make or break any rules you choose!
Starting and stopping this command sequence is good exercise, as it is brief and comfortable for your dog. Feel free to ask him to "go back to work, heel, sit, stay, good boy, sit straight," several times a day if you like, but only do it once at each session, ending as always, with "You're FREE! GOOD BOY!."
You may escape from any command sequence only upon completion of that sequence. However, you can escape any situation or command sequence by asking your dog to "come."
Your "come"command has been described earlier under "conditioned reflex." At that time, we were only interested in the "come" command. Now, you are going to learn to have your dog come and sit in front of you before returning to the heel position.
This sequence will always be followed exactly at any time you issue the "come" command.
When your dog comes to you, he is subordinating himself to you. When you ask him to sit in front of you, you are dominating him. When you ask him to return to heel, he's once again equal.
Use this to COMMAND 100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CON-TROLL!
Subject: Independant dog with lot's of confidence
From: Jerry Howe
Date: Sat, Jul 29 2000 12:00 am
Email: "Jerry Howe" <j...@cfl.rr.com>
Groups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
"corey" <johnson1...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:DEjg5.16607$5N1.581205@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
> Any advice on how to respond to willful
> disobedienc of a command? My 3 mo.
> boxer pup listens to all commands she
> knows (sit, shake, bob dole (shake left-
> pawed), stay) but when I give the down
> command, she'll look around and either
> lay down somewhere else or blink at me.
>
> She knows the command and will do it
> for food, treat, or to go outside.
>
> suggestions?
Hello Corey,
The following will explain a bit about dogs and their challenges to our commands. I expect that from dogs, and their refusals to perform are a necessary aspect of learning. Responding to their challenges out of frustration or anger or with force or confrontation, only teaches the dog to be mistrustful of you, and it makes them nervous and out of control.
"Paul B" <NOSPAMpand...@newnet.co.nz>
wrote in message news:3981114a@news.iprolink.co.nz...
> Roz has an interesting peculiarity. When
> I call her when she is off leash she comes
> trotting back immediately and when I ask
> her to sit she does.....facing away from
> me. It appears to be her last little protest
> at being subservient to me and still thinks
> of herself as an equal.
You got it exactly right again, with this behavior she's doing. It's an "equality" thing, the so called dominance issue. If she sits in front facing you, she's in a subordinate position. If she sits at the heel, she's in an equal or partnership position, i.e. more equal, less subordinate...
When she sits in front on the recall facing away from you, she's in effect saying she's as equal as you, less subordinate.
> Now this isn't a major issue, she is
> obedient and never challenging or
> threatening to me or any person.
> This issue clearly underlines that
> a dog can still keep it's
> independence and confidence
> without displaying any "dominant"
> behavior.
Right. I use that to set the dog up to challenge me, so I can counter with another move, like asking her to come, which will subordinate her once again. It teaches her that the "consequences'' of not doing a behavior is that she'll be asked to come, and redirected to do the behavior again.
We ''get out from under'' using a distraction, in a sense, and starting off on a clean slate with no aversion to the commands or conflict with us.
> I consider it to be a very good
> trait and not one that I want her
> to lose, but she must realize
> I'm the pack leader and she
> is subservient.
Right. That's called training.
> Challenging this problem head
> on is not the solution as it is not
> just the fact she faces away from
> me but rather the reasons for
> her doing it.
EXACTLY. She's testing you out to see how exacting and consistent, you are going to be.
> I'm doing subtle things at the
> moment to try to make her
> more subservient but without
> her realizing what I'm up to
> ( always making her sit or
> down or come etc before
> giving her attention and
> ensuring she doesn't "lead"
> me around the house).
I use the heeling pattern exercise to get that balance. It only takes about four minutes to thoroughly work through all the dogs' issues and get them back on the beam...
> She is very sharp however, I
> tried ignoring her for a couple
> of minutes on leaving the house
> and returning to make her calme
> as she used to worry Sam a bit
> when I came home. On the 3rd
> day doing this I came home and
> she wasn't there to greet me, I
> wandered around the back and
> there she was, she had decided
> to ignore ME until I came looking
> for her then all was well.
There you go. Tit for Tat. It's allelomimetic behavior at it's BEAST. Fun, isn't it???
> I've stopped that approach now.
> It seems her attitude was "2 can
> play that game".
That's always the way it is. We teach our dogs to respond to us in the manner we respond to them. That's why I insist on no force, no confrontation.
> I'm interested to hear how
> others would deal with this,
> let the flames begin.
Your question brings up a lot of thought about dominance issues, and maybe this will help put some of those issues into perspective for others who are doing their "Alpha fighting" in a less etheric manner.
Try this. When she's coming in on the recall to sit, just as soon as she begins to turn, treat that moment as a mistake, and create a sound and praise (she should recognize her mistake
and correct it on her own with no further comment from you.
Or, you could simply treat it as if she is entirely breaking a command and you could ask her to come *(the default for most refusals to perform a command).
Which is the best ''correction'' to do in this situation, is hard for me to determine...
If we simply create a sound and praise at the instant she begins to turn around in front of us, she should quickly correct herself, IF she were ''making an honest mistake," if you know what I mean...
However, if as we suspect, this is one of those ''dominance'' or equality things, she will be doing this as a conscious attempt at overriding your ''authority,'' and therefore I suspect she may try to do something OTHER than correct herself, as she would ordinarily do, were the mistake we were dealing with was less of an "ISSUE'' with her.
It will be interesting to see what her response will be when you call her out on this mistake...
I suspect she may up the ante, and try to take off on you, or in some other manner violate her command.
Make note of this for me, and let me know, I'm VERY curious about what she's thinking here...
Pay close attention to her the next few times you call her to come, so you won't miss observing any "planning" that she might start going through, as she realizes she's being taken to task for her "intentional affront to your authority," (as our koehler trainers would call it).
You might notice her eye movements looking for a ''safe haven" or another position that she might think YOU will compromise on. This should be fun, so don't get to feeling frustrated about it, this is a learning plateau,if, as I suspect,, this is not a REAL mistake...
My guess is that once you make a sound and praise as she starts to turn on the initial recall, she'll immediately turn around again to correct herself, and CONTINUE turning to face once again in the forward position, rather than facing you looking up (a subordinate position). That would be pretty ballsey, a real affront to you and your authority!
(If that's as bad as it gets in our lifetime, we're not doing too bad!)
Or, she'll compromise, by sitting at a 45 degree angle in front of you. THAT'S her most likely alternative, as it would be less ''rebellious'' than just walking away, or laying down, or in some other manner refusing the command.
Presumably she'll need to be "corrected" once or twice (using sound distraction and praise), as she begins to make her turn to face forward, before settling on a compromise of simply sitting at an angle in front of you on the initial recall command, and furthermore, my guess is, that she'll sit facing you angled towards your right, which would be the same idea in her mind, as returning to heel in a clockwise (dominant) circle.
Ordinarily, we would simply ask her to sit straight, and square her in front of us. But, because of the nature of this being a "pregnant moment," we might want to treat that moment as a violation of your command, and give up on the sit straight issue (because it's not a matter not understanding what was required, or just not being precise enough), and ask for a come command.
> Paul.
That's all for now. Let me know what you think.
Yours, Jerry.
----------------------------
When you ask your dog to return to heel, and maybe he "snubs" you, just repeat the command with sound followed by instant praise, on the word heel.
Failing that, simply give up on that request, and ask him to "come." You'll need to switch the lead to your left hand, use the signal for come with the right hand, and certainly be prepared to enforce the come command with sound, if you find it necessary to repeat the come
command.
Work as quickly as you can, but take your time to make sure the timing is correct. You should begin to see a pattern developing here. That when the dog fails to perform a command the next command is come.
From: "Paul Bousie" <paulbou...@clear.net.nz>
To: "'Don Fitz'" donfit...@hotmail.com;
<Ama...@DCFWatch.com>
Cc: <jho...@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003
Subject: RE: Jerry Howe
If you have read the newsgroup posts then you must already have a good idea about what I think.
His methods are the best I have come across.
They aren't a quick fix but an entire training concept so if you aren't in for the long haul then don't bother.
If you go his way then you have to forget all the other gibberish that other people spew, you have to believe in what you are doing, then and only then will you get the results.
You can't combine his methods with other training methods, not until you understand what you are trying to achieve, and even then I have only ever combined about 2 other trainers ideas and even then just a snip of what they suggest which works in parallel with the Wits End concept.
His methods make you as the trainer completely responsible for your actions, his methods make you think and work out your own solutions for any given situation, the default (the recall) is always there to get things under control again.
His ideas and concepts teach you to work with the dog, to develop a team and a willingness to work together which is surely the best way to be. is methods don't use force or intimidation but they do totally emphasize the absolute importance of pack (family pack) structure, without that you can achieve almost nothing.If you are wondering how a dog can be trained without any negativity the answer lies in the recall, anytime your dog doesn't follow through with a
request you call him / her to you, since the recall is the first thing taught and it is taught in such a way it becomes a reflex the dog always returns to you, it is a subordinate position for the dog and we release it by asking for a "heel" which is an "equal" position.
His methods are very good, his understanding of dogs is excellent.
I recommend his methods.
Paul Bousie
-----------------------------
2E. Sit From the Front
While working commands from the front of your dog, do not practice the recall or come command, until he is proficient with the other aspects of these commands, or you'll create problems with all of the following.
We have just learned the command "sit from the side" or heel position, and, as with most commands, each different position or orientation will appear to your dog to be an altogether different command.
Even commands given from a different distance than what has been familiar, is equally as difficult as learning the command initially.
The hand signal is only slightly different, being given with the right hand. As it was with the original command from the side, we'll give a full upward sweep of the hand, bringing it up from your side by your leg, until the forearm is parallel to the ground with the palm up.
Once he becomes familiar with your commands, the signal can be diminished to just cupping your hand briefly. When you ask your dog to come, it is required that he sit himself so he is directly in front of you, his toes about 6 inches away from your toes. This is a crucial
element of establishing strict discipline.
It is a good barometer of how readily your dog is willing to work for you. If he comes and sits directly in front of you with his back toward you, this could indicate several possibilities.
The first likelihood is that he is not willingly working as your subordinate. In this case, he may be trying to establish the 50/50 equality we discussed earlier in the heel command.
Remember, when he comesand sits in front of you, he is looking up to you as an appropriate authority figure and thereby subordinating himself.
We know that dogs do not do things for no reason.
Therefore, if he has chosen to perform this command incorrectly, it may be for reasons other than simply to challenge your authority. Perhaps, in his opinion, he has done this for security measures, and has changed his orientation to your command.
Were that to be the case, we might allow this discrepancy to permit him to observe the suspected or perceived threat.
If that were the case, asking him to return to heel would cause him to back himself into the heel position, without taking his eyes off of the front view. That would be O.K. under certain circumstances.
Right now, we'll look at this as an example of performing the command incorrectly due to inexperience. This is why we have not yet covered how to get your dog to sit.
It's important to understand that accomplishing a command is not relevant to our agenda. So
first of all, you must hurry up and relax. When we ask our dog to sit from any position, it is our ultimate goal to get him to sit exactly where we indicate. Therefore, whether he sits or not, is secondary to our ultimate goal.
This is important mainly to enforce strict discipline.
In other words, we have the option to cause our dog to work harder and harder to satisfy our request.
I'm trying to show the difference between what we want for today Vs what we'll want in a few days.
Today it's only important to teach the sit command, so wherever we get it, we're thrilled. In a couple of days we'll only settle for exactly straight to the side or in front, etc.
We will apply the knowledge and techniques on which we've been working in order to format a routine for training and temperament development.
This routine is the heeling pattern exercise, which will give you the ability to exercise your dog's mind in a manner that cannot be accomplished through any other means.
The heeling pattern will exercise will balance the dominant and submissive nature of your dog's personality, and it only requires about four minutes of work.
3 THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE
Start your dog, as you always will, by showing him the lead and asking him if he wants to go to work.
Follow through by telling him he's a good boy, and then order him "Back to work," follow through with heel, good boy, nice dog (to keep his attention), and ask him to sit.
Remember now, that on the return-to-heel, your left foot and index finger will be the signal or CUE, and the movement of the left foot and hand, must coincide with the voice command.
All of your weight must be on the right foot. As your dog returns to the heel position he must return counter clockwise on your left side, and square himself to the heel position.
As in all of these exercises you must orient yourselves by using a landmark in relationship to the direction you are facing, and make sure that your dog, when finished, is properly lined up towards it. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.
If he refused to turn counter clockwise, that could indicate a problem, such as an effort to resist working properly for you. However, to be fair, we must be certain this is the case. It's possible that he is "left-handed." We'll see very shortly.
First, we must accomplish getting him to sit. We expect your dog will not want to sit when you ask him. While he is making the counter clockwise turn, when his nose is pointing directly opposite of yours, you will ask him to sit.
Do not wait for him to complete turning around, or he will continue moving out of position.
Follow through with the stay signal (and voice command) before he comes to a sit.
NOW we can work on the sit!
As you collect your lead by inching your way down the half-length of it with your right hand, you may extend your right arm with the elbow straigh tforward *elbow locked and arm straight ahead. to take up the extra slack and prevent his head from spinning around.
Your left hand can reach back, as you shift your weight on to your left foot, and put your
middle finger and thumb just in front of his hips. In this manner you will be able to move with him if he tries to move around. You can pivot to maintain the heel position while negotiating the sit but you must not walk from that spot.
You can control the front of your dog with the lead, by gently applying alternating tension on the lead as you gently touch without applying pressure, to try to get him to flex his rear into the sitting position.
When he begins to flex to assume the sit, your hand must come away from his rear, and follow through with the stay signal. Do not try to push him all the way down, and do not try to force him into the position.
Just touch the middle finger and thumb in front of the hip a for a moment till he pushes back,
and immediately release. If he begins to flex to assume the sit, your hand must come away from his rear, and follow through with the stay signal and the praise and then the sit straight command, etc.
If he didn't sit as we'd expect, you may repeat the command a second time, with a sound cue accompanying the signal and voice followed immediately by prolonged, non physical praise.
Continue working in this manner until it seems that he no longer remembers your request or resists.
That being the case, you may in a conversational tone, repeat the command and hand signal without a sound cue for your third request to sit during this command sequence.
While negotiating the sit, it is appropriate if necessary, to turn in any direction to maintain the heel position to your dog's shoulder.
It doesn't matter where you end up facing to the original point of orientation, so long as you find him sitting at the heel position. Praise him for completing the sit, and then ask him to sit straight, as you adjust him towards the orientation point or landmark that you were facing originally.
Now you must adjust him to the appropriate position.
Don't try to do this all at once, or you'll upset the apple cart! At first, just square him to your side till he feels comfortable being adjusted. You'll extend your right arm to control his front;
the left foot must remain stationary at the heel position. The right foot may step back a few inches as you bend at the knees, and using the left palm on the large muscle of the rear leg of your dog, gently push just a little as you ask him to sit straight.
Be sure to follow through with the stay signal, and praise. Once again you may adjust his
front. Soon, you will be able to turn him any amount in order to accomplish making him return to the heel position. And after just a few days of practice, he'll adjust himself on your command "sit straight."
Of course, all of the above presumes that your dog performed the initial phase of the return to heel command. If he did not, then you will have to ask him a fourth request with sound on the cue word to "return to heel" (the command to your dog is simply heel, the "return to" is for your understanding only).
So, let's say he refuses the fourth request. That's O.K. Simply place the handle of your lead into the left hand, and step backwards dropping the length of the lead while giving the come command signaling with the right hand, and collect the lead, taking the half length in your right hand, and placing it into your left palm along with the handle of the lead.
Your signal, of course, for the come command must accompany the voice command. As you move backward, you may go as little or far as you need to accomplish getting him to come
straight in to you. The come command should have been properly conditioned earlier, so that now all you need to do is work on sit from the front!
While he's in motion on the recall, ask for the sit before he gets to you. Do this while he is about three feet away. This will give him time to process thinking of your command.
Your lead will be in your left hand, and you may shorten it by taking the length with your right hand, and slide it through your left palm, as you follow through with the hand signal to sit from the front.
Keep that signal open, and wait. Stand erect, and try to lean towards him a little. Bring your right hand forward, and with the middle finger and thumb, touch just in front of his hip bone.
If he starts to flex into position, follow through with the stay signal, even before he has finished sitting.
Of course, you will follow through with praise, and while doing so, pat him on the chest as you ask him to "sit straight," and adjust him square in front of you.
You may turn as much as is necessary to maintain the position directly in front of your dog.
Where he sits is relevant only to his position to you at this time.
If necessary, you may repeat the command to "sit from the front," using sound on the cue
word (the command sit is for the dog, and sit from the front is for your clarification).
As soon as you've got him seated squarely in front of you, the lead will be placed into your right hand, and complete the exercise by returning him to the heel position.
Now you're ready to move forward on the heel.
Your voice command must coincide with the movement of your left foot, your eyes must be
directed forward, you may signal with your left index finger forward, and step forward speaking to him as though he were working perfectly. You'll go forward at least three full steps, speaking a word of praise with each step.
If he moves along with you, that's fine. If not, that's O.K.; collect your lead as you step directly backward into the heel position.
Some dogs will simply sit there. Give a second request using sound on the cue word and signal, and follow through as before. If he again refuses to move along into the heel, simply step back again, and prefix your third request as before. If he has broken the sit command, disregard that.
The prior command is not being broken, the new command "heel" is the one we're now concerned with.
This point is crucial so don't rush through it!
Let's look at this from your dog's point of view. Your dog is sitting at the heel position. You step forward on the heel, and he lies down. He broke the heel command, not the sit.
Once a new command is issued, the previous command no longer exists.
So, once again you find yourself on the heel command, three steps in front of your dog, and he is sitting at the starting point. After your fourth request to heel, give up on that, and ask him to come.
Of course, he must come to a sit in front of you, and after all of the prerequisites have been attended to, return him to heel, and try again.
Now you should be working well, with the default system being quite well understood by your dog. As we move forward on the heel, expect him to do so for only three steps.
I don't expect he'll want to cooperate, and even if he did, it's still his obligation to try to get away with as much as he can!
As he breaks forward on the heel, usually on your third step forward, simply reverse your
direction by pivoting in the exact opposite direction, being sure not to allow any contact with the collar.
We don't want to make him follow you. Anyone can take a dog on a six-inch length of chain,
and force him to heel. It does not matter if you are forcing him on a six-inch chain, or a six -
foot lead.
Any force is undesirable and will result in problems.
Doing these exercises correctly does not require that your dog perform properly, just you!
Each time your dog charges past your side, simply make a sound and praise as you reverse, moving smoothly and fluidly, exactly opposite of the direction his nose is pointing. He will break past you, maybe every three steps.
And you will alternate sounds with praise as you reverse.
Soon, he's going to do one of three things and your response should be spontaneous and fluid at each of these junctures. We will deal with each possibility in turn.
He will go behind you on your right side. If he does this, you will pivot to your left.
He will not turn with you. At this point, you should simply give up on the heel command, and ask him to come. By now you should realize that the lead must be put into your left hand, etc., before asking for the "recall" or "come" command.
This requires a sit from the front, before returning once again to the heel position. Follow through with the sit from the side, and begin again.
He will cut you off by shouldering in front of your knee. This time, you're going to handle
things just a little bit differently. As he tries to cut you off, he's actually trying to force you into a circle to your right. At this time, you must circle him to the left.
Remember, everything you do is opposite of the direction your dog chooses. In order to turn left when he's trying to go to the right in front of you, you'll have to get your left foot over in front of him, as you make another sound distraction and tell him good boy.
You'll probably need to correct him in this manner two or three times alternating the direction of the origin of the sound distractions always followed by praise as you shorten your lead just enough to apply a very slight amount of tension on the lead, using your right hand out to your right side and release which will cause him to drop back to heel.
Try to move him into a complete left circle, and come to a sit when you have come full circle.
This circle will start off being rather large, perhaps six, eight, ten feet or more in diameter.
It is important to finish at EXACTLY three hundred and sixty degrees.
Come to a sit at this point, follow through with your stay command, praise, adjust him to sit straight and proceed into a three hundred and sixty-degree right circle.
*Next, we're going to try again to move forward on the heel command, and proceed only four steps, and make a ninety degree left turn, taking only two steps, and making a ninety degree right turn, and continue for only four steps.
You may need to make a slight correction with each turn. This correction must be performed
without pulling back on the lead with your left hand.
The right hand is the only hand on the lead, proceed slowly and deliberately speaking with
each step 1) heel good boy, step 2) nice dog! step 3) that's a good fella, (next tuning left)
step 4) heel good boy as you make a ninety degree left turn and continue only one more
step while praising and then turn right with another request to heel followed by good boy,
and continue as before for three steps, and on the fourth step turn into a full left hand
circle and come to a halt where you've taken a fix on a landmark as you start/finish point, and ask for a sit.
We'll follow through with the sit straight command, and the relaxation, and then move into a three hundred sixty degree right circle.
If everything is going quite well, you should just about get dizzy, with all of this turning and pivoting.
At this point, do not try to go for any distance in the heel position. You'll have many years of walking with your dog at the heel position.
This heeling exercise will give you and your dog all of the basic practice that you need to accomplish anything you desire.
3A. Down From the Side
At any time you have your dog sitting correctly in the heel position, you may ask him to lie down.
Your left hand will come up from your side, palm open, fingers together, and pointing directly
towards the left.
Bring your hand from high above your dogs head, and slightly forward, so as to not come into his line of vision abruptly or close to his eyes, at the moment you give the voice command to down.
Keep the signal open, and wait. Give him plenty of time to think about this command. After several seconds, and when it seems that he is no longer thinking about this command, repeat the signal and voice command with the appropriate sound cue and follow through with praise.
Continue praising once again, until you are sure he is no longer thinking about your request.
Repeat the third request and praise without the sound cue. Keep this hand signal open as you bring your right arm forward, placing the length of the lead under your left palm, and place your left thumb over the lead.
You'll have no tension on the collar; the lead will be under your palm, coming between your
index finger and thumb. Do not apply pressure. This will protect your face as you reach for his left leg with your left hand with the length of the lead in it. The right hand will have the lead at the half-length as it was during the heel.
Now place the right hand on the dogs' right leg and gently lift to place his paws forward. Do
not try to force him to lie down.
If you place his feet just a few inches forward, follow through with the stay signal, stand up
straight, and praise him. Wait for him to finish laying down on his own, even if it's ten or
twenty minutes later.
Do not praise with your hand when he is in the down position. And as always, you may ask him to down straight. You might touch his shoulders with your middle finger and thumb gently between his shoulder blades, or the flat of your palm on the large muscle of his shoulder or rear legs to ask him to down straight. At this time you may pat him.
3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command
You may begin to leave your dog on a stay command from either a sitting, standing, or lying down position. Sitting would be easiest.
The stay command is much easier than it sounds.
Proper timing will make this command simple.
The secret is to use all of the cues we have available at the same time.
We will teach your dog to heel automatically when you step forward with your left foot, and to stay automatically when you step forward with your right foot.
Your right foot will be an additional signal to teach your dog to stay. It must coincide with the voice command, and at the same time, you will drop the length of your lead directly in front of your dog's face as you move directly toward the end of your lead.
If done correctly, we have four signals working in our favor. Dropping the length of your lead
(but not the handle) will have a visual impact on keeping him in the stay command.
Give your stay hand signal, voice command and movement of your right foot all together, as
you bring your right arm forward and release the length of the lead from your palm.
As you step forward with your left foot, place the handle of your lead into your left hand.
If he should break the stay command before you have stepped forward with your left foot, use your sound and praise and take the middle of you lead with your left hand to collect the lead back into the palm of your right hand, and step back into the heel position, and if necessary, repeat your sit command.
If this sounds contrary to the earlier discussion about correcting the last command that your dog broke, I agree. However, to your dog, stay is a non-action!
That means that he did not break the stay command, but rather, he broke the sit command.
The position he was in was the stay command; the concept of stay does not mean much to your dog. If you leave his side correctly, and he breaks the command from the side, he must be corrected from the side. Most of the time, you'll just step back as you make a sound cue and if necessary sit, stay, good boy, sit straight, and repeat the stay signal and voice command as you step forward again.
Once you have taken two steps forward, even though he is behind you, if he breaks the stay
command now, he has broken it from the front. That means you'll need to place the handle of
the lead into your left hand, turn to face him, collecting the length of your lead with your right
hand, and placing it into the palm of your left, as the signal to sit comes with your right hand.
Try to get him sitting with as little physical contact as possible, drop the length of your lead, step all of the way back to the end of your lead, repeat your stay signal from the front, at the same time as you step forward on your right foot and continue directly towards him, collecting the length of your lead into your left palm.
Now you may physically praise him, ask him to sit straight, adjust him, repeat the stay signal
from the front as you drop the length of the lead and step back.
Initially, we will give extra stay signals (with voice commands) at each point of our movement.
We expect him to break the stay command when we move, so move smoothly, and distinctly, giving the signal with each new movement.
When correcting a broken stay command use a sound and praise only, and return the dog to
the position without comment or physical contact, if possible.
Return to the point where he was when he broke the command, praise from that distance, repeat the stay command again as you quickly move in toward him, ask him to sit straight again, praise, pat, repeat the stay command and go back.
Each point of movement requires handling of the lead properly to correct any mistakes quickly and without fussing. (By point of movement, I mean when you leave the side, when you reach the end of the lead and turn to face him, and when you begin to return to him.
3C. Returning to the Heel Position
Now you are ready to return to the heel position by going behind your dog. As you move toward your dog, repeat your stay signal from the front, place the handle of your lead into your right hand and side your left hand down the length of the lead, to keep it adjusted as you go to your right, along the left side of your dog.
As you return to your dog, if he breaks the stay command before you get directly behind him, the lead must go back into your left hand as you step backwards to correct him from the front.
As you return to your dog, if he breaks the stay command when you are directly behind him, the lead will return to your right hand, and you will "correct" him from the side.
*Once he's used to that, get him used to paying attention to your feet as you pass by, lulling him into a false sense that he's going to remain there, as you plant your left foot at the heel position and pass by stepping off on your right foot with your stay signal and command.
After several repetitions, plant your right foot at his shoulder and pass by on your left foot,
asking for a heel and taking just one step, ask for a sit.
Long stay commands are simply a matter of understanding how long your dog will remain in the desired position before moving. If your dog is willing to remain in position for any given period of time, it is likely that he will be consistent, and remain in that position for whatever amount of time as long as he feels comfortable.
Carefully time his limits, and just before that time span has elapsed, make a move using the appropriate signals. This should have the effect of "re- starting" his clock.
So, if you expect he'll remain sitting for ten seconds, make your move at about eight seconds into the command, and return to your original point and wait.
Anticipate when he will break the command, and you'll have no difficulty extending the amount of time that he is able to stay on command.
The American Kennel Club (A.K.C.) requires that a stay command last for only three minutes of sitting, and six minutes in the down position.
That is probably due to time constraints in the show ring. For our purposes, you determine the quantity of time that you would prefer your dog to remain in a stay command.
Remember, each time you must "correct" your dog for breaking a stay command is an opportunity to extend his ability to wait. Be consistent, patient and persistent. Don't ask him to do something and forget about following through to properly enforce the desired command.
3D. Down From the Front
When both you and your dog are comfortable with working on stay commands, you may go
on to down from the front.
Start at the six-foot distance, and use a full sweep of the forearm, keeping the signal open,
fingers together, palm down, fingers pointing toward your dog.
Give your signal and wait as before, and if necessary repeat your second request with
sound on the cue word. On your third request, as your signal is coming down, collect your
lead with your right hand at the half-length, placing it into your left palm.
Keeping your right hand on the length of the lead, control the lead with your right thumb, as you move in to grasp the left front leg with your right hand, being careful not to release the length of the lead.
Your left hand will do likewise, keeping the lead folded as you place your left hand on his right front leg, making sure that the collar has no tension on it, but that the lead has no slack.
This will protect your face while working on placing your dog down. Gently pick up on his front feet, and move them forward. Even if they come forward only a couple of inches, follow through with your stay command, drop the length of your lead as you step all the way back.
In the unlikely event that your dog remains in the down position, you must return to the heel position quickly, thus avoiding the likelihood that he will now break the down-stay command.
This would require that you again place him into the down position from the front. Once
you've returned to the heel position, if he should break the down stay command, you may correct him from the side.
4 PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS
Try leaving your dog from the heel position on a sit or down-stay command, stepping off with
your right foot as you issue the stay signal with voice command, dropping the length of your lead directly in front of his nose as your left foot is proceeding into its first movement of your
second step.
As you plant your left foot on the ground, the handle of the lead must go over the thumb of
your left hand, and your right foot should be moving forward into your third step, and continue
to the six foot length of your lead.
Turning to face him with a flash of your right
palm and a repeat voice command to stay, tell him he's a good dog, repeat your stay signal
and voice command as you once again step forward on your right foot.
Depending on whether you want to move directly into him to adjust his position, or to pat and
reassure him, or continue to go around him to return to the heel position, requires different
handling techniques with the lead.
These differences are important so that any errors may be corrected efficiently, and also so that we will not give any unintentional cues that might cause him to break his command. We want to throw the dog off guard to keep him distracted while we're moving.
If your intent is to keep him sitting or down while in front of you at a distance, you'll need to control the lead with your left hand. If he should break the stay command, just sound and praise and if necessary repeat the signal and the command that he broke (in this case either sit or down), and without speaking, collect the lead with your right hand, keeping the signal open, and placing the lead half way down into your left hand.
If your intent is to return to the heel position, you'll need to hold the handle of your lead with the right hand, sliding your left hand down the length of your lead as you approach him.
So, when you're at the six-foot distance in front of him, as you're about to move toward him, repeat your stay signal as you step forward with your right foot.
Move directly forward, collecting your lead into your left hand, step right up to your dog, pat, praise, adjust, repeat the stay signal, and step directly back as you drop the length of the lead, and return to the six foot distance in front of your dog.Repeat your stay signal once again as you step forward on your right foot, place the handle of your lead into your right hand, slide your left hand down the lead as you extend your arms enough to keep the extra slack out of the way, and proceed to your right around your dog.
As you step past his head, this is the moment when he will be likely to break position. If he does, make a sound distraction and praise while placing the lead into your left hand, repeat your signal with your right hand and voice command with praise, correct his position, drop the length as you step all of the way back, praise from this distance, repeat your stay commands, and try again to return around him.
As you do so, if he breaks position as you approach directly behind him, correct him as you would from the side.
Next time, plan your move so that you plant your left foot at the heel position, as you move without hesitation into the stay command, passing by him with your right foot, moving directly to the end of your lead.
Repeat this several times, just moving forward and returning around from behind him and leaving him seated as you pass by.
After several tries, plan your move so that when you are directly behind him you will plant your right foot at the heel position, and pass his shoulder as you step out of the stationary heel position and into the forward heel with your left foot, hand signal, and voice command to heel.
Take three steps, speaking with each step and come to a halt, asking for a sit or down.
STAND COMMAND:
The signal for stand may be given from the side or the front (front is easier) with the palm open, facing down, just a sweep in front of your chest. You may move your right foot at the same time, forward when at his side, and backward when you're in front.
As with the other commands, repeat after a few moments with sound and praise. If he seems to no longer be acknowledging recognition of the command repeat the request and praise and on your fourth request with sound and praise gently coax him into position.
From the front, as soon as he begins to break command and move forward, follow through with sound and praise and the stay signal and go directly toward him, asking him to stand straight while praising.
Adjust his front, come around behind him into the heel position, repeat the stay signals, run your hand along the sides of his body, adjust his feet so they are lined up properly, and move forward to the end of your lead.
To exit a stand-stay command, return to the heel position and take one step forward on the heel and ask for a sit or down.
Try to avoid asking him to come to you from a standing position.
Down In Motion (On Heel Or Recall):
Now that we have the heeling pattern exercise we can use it to teach other more advanced work.
The down while in motion is particularly easy to teach if we give the down command on our third step, when the dog is going to expect us to turn left. He's ready to turn with you and that's a perfect opportunity to ask him to do something different, like drop as we give the down signal on our left foot and step past him on our next step with our right foot with a stay command as we continue to the end of the lead.
Same idea with the down on recall. The dog is familiar with coming nine feet, the six foot length of your lead and three foot length of your arm.
That means the dog is used to coming nine feet and sitting. So, when we ask for a down on recall, we just ask for a come command, step back six feet and ask for a down as we step one step forward, follow through, and step back to the full length of the lead to praise.
Then you can ask again for a come to finish. Now that we have these distances established the dog is able to work with it, we can use it for all kinds of commands.
6 Conclusion / Review:
As you interrupt barking or breaking command patterns, notice the time it takes between bursts of barking or instances of breaking the stay, for example
If there's a three second pause, interrupt the forthcoming behavior praise the bark or break, and praise again after two and a half seconds.
That'll reset his timer to allow five seconds of silence or staying between barking or staying spells.
When the dog first begins to break his barking you'll hear an "extinguishment" barking pattern. The regular barking will begin to break up, and there will be "spaces" in between the barks. Those "spaces" require instant praise. ANY WHINING IS GOOD if you're breaking barking.
It's NOT barking, so PRAISE THE WHINING.
When the barking is fully extinguished, THEN work on the whining just as you did the barking. The same tact is used with any repetetive behavior.
The praise must be timed just right, so that we're praising the first instant of silence, then break our attention to allow the dog to think of resuming, and praise just before the anticipated time that he'll take before resuming the bark.
Usuall it starts out at two or three seconds between bursts. Strategically interrupting and praising will quickly extingush the habitual aspects of the behavior. If you have difficulty with anything here, call or write me for assistance.
SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE:
Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach.
A few preliminary exercises in the Wits' End Dog Training Method manual will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency.
The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion.
When you are told these methods have been tried and didn't work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly.
If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin.
I've heard a couple of the "experts" saying they've tried it, and it didn't work for them or it
made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts who choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound AVERSION instead of choking or shocking... Many of them have never read the techniques presented here and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods.
There are some people who do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people who do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful.
There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice.
Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible.
A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin.
That's why several penny cans are required, or a friend or family member can be enlisted to clap their hands or snap their fingers to create another source of sound distraction.
You cannot use the same penny can for more than two occasions in succession. Once it's been tossed, it must remain where it falls till the exercise if finished.
The sound must always be instantly followed by PROLONGED (5-15 seconds), non physical praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession.
The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dogs know it was not intended for them.
When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed.
The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed.
The behavior MUST be allowed or CAUSED to be repeated and interrupted AGAIN using sound and praise until the behavior is broken.
And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That's right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, praise him at that exact moment, and the previous DISTRACTIONS will be restimulated in the dogs mind and the behavior will be QUICKLY extinguished.
That's why trying to prevent the dog from doing a behavior is COUNTERPRODUCTIVE.
You end up distracting the dog's thoughts from the behavior we are teaching or extinguishing.
That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog's thought process.
The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors.
It ONLY takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques."
The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established.
Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. Phyisical opposition is triggered through force or pressure, emotional opposition is triggered through negative emotions.
What further complicates the process for the trainer is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to THINK about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary, search for a can or figure out some way to create an appropriate, brief, distraction, and follow through with the appropriate sound distraction and praise.
(If you're still following, you now understand why "traditional?" trainers confound their dogs, by jerking the lead and shouting "NO!".
Someone ought to mention that, don't you agree?) The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption.
An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption, a can with some pennies may be used, a coincidental spontaneous occuring sound might serve us well.
Just imagine HOWE your dog is going to react if you knew there's going to be a peal of thunder, and you timed it so as to correspond to a failed come command???
We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn.
Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dog's mischief.
Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise.
Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing "no," or telling the dog to "stop it."
That's going to cause animostiy, and teach the dog to control you.
The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound distraction and praise.
That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control.
The sound must never occur twice in succession from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you'd praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers.
The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound
(except our voice!), followed by prolonged, non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior, or resumes it.
The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time...
That split second of thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation.
That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner.
They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore.
But only on the one shoelace!
He must take that behavior to other instances to fully extinguish his desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior.
And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places to generalize it.
That means that the worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise.
Usually it happens much quicker than that.
Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn't get any satisfaction from it.
The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his idle mind from doing the devil's work.
"Linda" <llindaleedan...@msn.com wrote in message
I have been trying for the last 18 months to help my dog who became fear aggressive at 18 month of age. I do not know what started the problem but he came aggressive first with dogs and then began lunging and snapping at people. Until this time he loved everyone and could play with any dog. He was well socialized ad I took him with me everywhere.
At 13 months he passed the Canine Good Citizens Test except he could let me leave him. I had used clicker training to teach him manners and tricks but it was not working on his aggression problem.
I took him to vets who suggested a low protein diet, trainers who charged $800 to only make him worse.
They tried to use a prong collar and he froze, urinated and tried to climb on my head to help him. they then suggested a shock collar I knew this approach was not working as he was becoming more aggressive.
I took him to an animal behaviorist with Ph. D. 400 miles away who told me to "KEEP HIM SAFE" and read a book on the fearful canine. I tried another trainer who tried to use a nylon chock collar but it only made him worse.
I read hundreds of books,"CULTURE CLASH", "DOG ARE FROM NEPTUNE", "THE OTHER END OF THE LEASH", ETC looking for help. We finally went to Purdue University Small Animal Behavior Clinic and they said he had fear aggression, punishment would not work, use the gentle leader and when out walking and he got stressed have the people stop until he could get in control using treats, and work on clicker training.
At that point I knew more about clicker training and using the gentle leader than they did! Nothing was working--he would not come when I called him and would run away when I tried to catch him. I was afraid to walk him even in the neighborhood as we had become that "mean dog and women who hasn't trained her dog"
I went to four trainers in both Michigan and Florida who were trainer/specialists in aggression and the last two were so afraid of him they could not approach him. No one said I should give up on him and kill him but they would say "You have to realize he is dangerous and you are responsible for him."
*(You got LUCKY, Linda... They coulda got Sunshine DEAD on us. Damned near did... too.)
As last resort I tried the internet again--I had had on going discussions with trainers from Triple Crown and Dr Meister with out any help-and I found the ad to Doggy Do Right and messaged Jerry to ask if this might help my dog. He said solving the aggression problem was EZ but I could not believe him even when I downloaded the manual.
The name of the method was right I was at my Wits End.
I had been working for 18 months!
Using the can sound three time he came, and still comes from anywhere with the command-"comegoodboy" Next I tried the can when walking him--when he saw a dog three blocks away he went off-lunging and snapping-I used the can sound and he looked at me like uhn?
I used it three more times and we got to the other dog--the looked at me wagging his tail--the other person looked at me like why are shaking that can but just walked on by.
When ever I try to explain about the sound people look at me like "you must be out of your mind"
The results can make a believer!!!
Three weeks since beginning the Wits End Training Manual program I walked him without the gentle leader in a busy shopping area with many dogs.
He just seemed to not notice anyone.
When people talked to him or ask his name he would look at then and wag his tail and let then pet him.
I still can not believe the change in him--we can now enjoy life out in public.
If I had not found the Wits End method I know there was no hope for him and he would have hurt someone Through all this he never growled at me, guarded his toys or food or showed any sign of aggression with me.
My goal is to get the message out to all dog lovers that dogs can be trained fast, easily and problems solved with out force, pain, food or anything but sound and praise!!!!
I know most people would have given up on him a long time ago but he was and is my life. Solving the problem was EZ but only with the right approach-sound and praise.
I know because I tried everything else and nothing worked!!
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From: Linda Daniel To: Jerry Howe
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003
Subject: Re: - Re: dog aggression
Thanks for writing--I would be happy to do almost anything
to get your approach out to dog owners as I know it would
save so many lives.
I know at times I was so frustrated I thought of giving up on Sunshine but of course I never would have but many people would have. The world just does not know you can train a dog in just a few sessions and actuall solve problems.
We will be here until late April and we really have no plans--just to enjoy the warmth and sun of Florida, so
any time you could meet us would be great. I drive so I would be happy to come to you anytime anywhere!
We went to Celebration today and two little poodles got right into his face and he just sat there--I GOT a little scared but he handled it just fine.--a couple of times people would ask his name and want to pet him and he just went to them tail wagging and rolled over for them rub his tummy.
He really just is not concerned about people passing, even those on rollerblades! I have always used a gentle leader in public but he spent most of time rubbing his face on the grass--today I used his collar and he was so much happier!!
Only problem is he will stop to smell and I can not get stopped soon enough to keep the leash loose. He never pulled ahead of me but when he gets into smelling I have a hard time getting him going--at times I think he could smell a blade of grass for 10 minutes.
I can never thank you enough for giving Sunshine back!!!!!
I wrote to Purdue and told them about him being able to walk in a crowd with out the /gentle leader and not having a problem with other people and dogs.
I told them their advice did not work. Their advice was to use the gentle leader at all times and when he was around people or dogs to have him sit and reward with treats--one really good suggestions was to have people coming toward us stop when he got stressed or aroused and not move until we backed away-
- can you just see me yelling at people to stop on the street until I get his attention with treats.
They also suggested the possibility of using drugs-prozac- but thought he was too dangerous as the drug would make him less fearful and then he might attack or become more sure of himself and become dominate aggressive. Just had to share their great advice with you but I am sure you have heard it all--even I am becoming an expert on bad advice.
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