For the freshwater aquarium fish fanatic!
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This page will help you understand how each piece of equipment works, along with a printout checklist! Make sure to read this before you head off to the petstore to purchase the supplies. You'll learn about everything from the tank glass, to lighting, to accessories. And if you wanna use your handy dandy notebook to take some notes, it should really help you out, like when you're shopping for lighting and can't remember if you needed a 15 watt or an 18 watt lightbulb! he he. It's happend to me on occasion... Anyway, if these instructions sound intimidating, don't worry! Take it one step at a time. If you have any questions, don't be afraid to drop me an e-mail.
Checklist This list is something you can take with you to the petstore when you go shopping. It lists everything you'll need to set up your tank. Remember that down the road, you may have to purchase additional supplies, but these supplies are all you need to purchase now. Each thing on the list is talked about in detail below. Equipment:
Other Supplies & Accessories:
Starter Kits? Things called starter kits are becoming more and more popular, mainly because they offer you everything you need to get started for a cheap price! I really don't mind these, because sometimes purchasing everything seperately can be a pain, but I prefer purchasing everything seperately so you know what you're getting. The cheap starter kits usually don't have a very good filter, and sometimes they don't even come with everything you need. If you purchase a starter kit, you won't need to buy things seperately such as a filter or a light strip, but make sure everything that comes in your kit is on the list. Look at what your kit comes with and if there is anything remaining on the list that is not in your kit be sure to purchase it!
The Tank The first decision you will have to make is if you want a glass or acrylic aquarium. Glass tends to be more popular, acrylic being more expensive, but they both have their advantages and disadvantages. Acrylic tanks are manufactured using single piece construction, giving them a rounded, more modern look. They also have a clearer look than glass, and they hold up better in earth quakes. An acrylic tank tends to scratch easier, though, and it kind of bows slightly when it's filled with water. Glass tanks are manufactured by gluing panes together with silicone rubber sealant. I like the look of acrylic, but glass is cheaper and looks just fine to me. The next decision you'll have to make is what shape of aquarium you'll want to get. They come in every shape and size, it will be hard to choose just one! An aquarium with flat sides is best. The one shape I don't recommend is spheres and tall tanks. Most fish prefer to swim farther than deeper. You can also put more plants and decorations in a longer tank, giving your fish more hiding places. Try to purchase a tank with the largest surface area possible. (It's how your fish get oxygen!)
Tank Covers Most light fixtures act as covers for your tank. It is important to cover your tank so that it prevents things from getting into the tank, and prevents things from crawling or jumping out of the tank. You can purchase plastic or glass covers, and some covers come with a light built in, others you have to buy the light seperately. It is important to measure your tank's width to find a hood or cover that will fit your tank properly.
Lighting Lighting has little influence on the fish, yet it is important for healthy plant growth and illumination. Your dealer may carry a wide variety of lighting to choose from. The most popular types are incadescent and flourescent bulbs. Flourescent lights are cool and do not unnecissarily heat the water. It gives a bright, even flood of light, and uses little electricity. Incandescent bulbs offer the good lighting that is necissary for healthy plant growth. Whether you choose incandescent or flourescent, make sure you choose a white or natural daylight-grade color light. Do not buy colored bulbs because they are detrimental to the health of your tank. So how do you choose the right wattage for your aquarium light? This is debatable, but most experienced aquarists reccommend using these figures. Please note that they are rough guides and you should talk to an expert if you want the perfect wattage for your aquarium size. Standard flourescent tubes meet these needs: Length Strength Typical sizes for incandescent bulbs are 15-watt for 10-gallon tanks and smaller, and 25-watt for larger units.
Aquarium Stands An aquarium stand is not neccissary if you have a sturdy table to hold your heavy tank. If you don't have a table, desk, or dresser that can hold such weight (about eight pounds per gallon of water), than an aquarium stand is for you. There are many styles to choose from and your dealer will carry various styles. Choose the one that best fits the decorating scheme of the room and your taste of style. Whatever you choose, make sure that the stand does not wobble. *Tip* You can slip a piece of cardboard under a table leg that is wobbly to make it sturdier.
Filtration First, let me say that filtration does not replace the need for maitenance in your tank. There are many types of waste that cannot be removed by the filter, and your aquarium needs your help to get rid of those by doing your routine water changes. Filtration does prevent the need for very frequent water changes, though, and it can be the aquarist's best friend. The filter has two or three purposes. It cleanses and purifies the water, it circulates the water, and it aerates the water. There are three basic types of filtration that your filter system needs to provide:
Mechanical filtration is when particles of solid waste are physically removed by passing the water through filter media. Bio-filtration uses helpful bacteria to break down fish waste. Chemical filtration means using a chemical compound to collect certain types of dissolved waste. Now, let's talk about a few of the most popular and best kind of filters for beginners that perform these three tasks. Box or Corner Filters This consists of a small plastic box into which you put a top layer of polyester filter floss on top of a layer activated carbon, and then on the bottom is another layer of polyester filter floss. Water is passed up through a tube that is submersed in the tank. It then passes through the small plastic box with the filter media (the polyester floss and the carbon) inside. The first layer, the polyester filter floss, sifts out any large debris (mechanical filtration). The next layer, the activated carbon, purifies the water, taking out any toxic materials as well (chemical filtration). The bottom layer of polyester filter floss performs biological filtration. Then it flows back into the tank. Box filters are very cheap, but aren't the best type of filtration. Undergravel Filters And undergravel filter is a simple type of filter that is submersed inside the tank. It involves a perforated, plastic sheet that is placed inside the tank before anything else. Gravel, plants, and other decorations are placed on top of this. Air is pumped to the bottom of the filter, where it goes back up a tube, forcing water, which is allowed entry, up the tube. This creates a suction, drawing water from underneath the gravel. In this filter, the gravel is being used as a filter medium. Because you don't have to replace any filter media, they are very cheap to maintain. As the water is pulled through the gravel, debris get trapped between the stones (mechanical filtration). Helpful bacteria living on every particle of gravel will break down ammonia that is excreted by the fish (bio-filtration). Some models have small, activated-carbon cartridges atop the lift tubes. These provide minimal chemical filtration. Outside Power Filters The motorized plastic boxes hang on the back of the aquarium. Changeable filter media, usually a sandwiched version of the filter media in the box filter, go inside the box. The intake tube hangs in the tank, and the motor draws water directly up through it, passing through the media and returned to the aquarium via waterfall chute. The newer models are now coming out with a "bio-wheel". After the water passes through the filter media, it passes right through a spinning wheel, that looks almost like a water wheel, and it helps the helpful bacteria multiply (bio-filtration). These are excellent for the beginner, and are cheap, although you have to change the filter media monthly. These are just a few of the types of filtration that are probably cheapest and most popular.
Air Pumps Air pumps are mainly used to drive various types of filters. They can also be used to power decorative airstones that add oxygen to the water. (You know, those sunken treasure chests that have the lids that open and close with bubbles coming out?) Depending on what kind of filter you decide to use, you can then decide what size air pump you need. For an undergravel filter, you will need a large air pump, then with a little sunken treasure chest. Talk to your dealer. He should be able to advise you regarding various brands and models.
Heater If you keep tropical fish, then you should know that they come from warm climates and need a constant temperature of around 74-78* F. Just as lights, you buy heaters in wattage. The average rule is 5 watts for every gallon of water. Heaters come in different sizes and shapes. There are three basic types of heaters. There is the submerged heater, which attaches to one corner and has external controls. There are undertank, or dry heaters, that act as heating pads that fit under the tank. And then there are completely submersible heaters, which are mountable with included suction cups or brackets. Place your heater where it will come into contact with the circulating water, so it that it will warm the water effectively and maintain temperatures consistently. Thermometers You should have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the water. There are many types that do the job just fine, but some can have varied temperatures by a few degrees. You can buy a cheap $2.00 one at the petstore that generally serves its purpose well.
Other Supplies You Need Gravel- Gravel is neccissary if you want an undergravel filter, and it provides places to plant the roots of your plants in, and hide the shoes of the plastic plants you use. It's what covers the bottom of your aquarium. You can find gravel in practically every color of the rainbow! Using dark colored gravel will tend to bring out the darker colors in your fish, though. One-eighth to one-quarter inch stones are best. Two good rules of thumb to use to decide how much gravel you'll need is to use one and a half pounds of gravel per gallon, or 10 pounds of gravel per square foot of bottom. Water Conditioner- To remove chlorine in your tap water. Water Test Kits- Always purchase a pH testing kit. They are inexpensive and easy-to-use. It is important to monitor the pH of your water for the health of your fish. It is also a good idea to purchase an Ammonia and Nitrite kit. They are highly recommended for new tanks. Fishnet- You'll come to find that you will use your fishnet frequently so it is a very important piece of equipment. It should not be too small or too big. There are two types of nets: fine nets and coarse nets. Fine nets usually have white mesh with very small holes in the mesh. They tend to be easier on you fish. The small holes make it less likely for their fins to get caught in them and torn. Coarse nets are green in color, with a looser weave with holes in the mesh. There is less drag, making it quicker and easier to catch fish. I prefer coarse nets. Gravel Vacuum- This is my favorite piece of equipment because it makes water changes SO much easier!! They are small hand pump siphons that extract debris from the aquarium floor without scooping up gravel. It also makes a partial water change at the same time. They also make a thing called a Python, which performs this same function, only it connects to the tap and fills your tank back up with water, too! There's no need for any bucket. This may be a better option for larger tanks or tanks far from a faucet. Whatever you choose, be sure you purchase one, they are lifesavers! Algae Scraper- This will also assist you in the cleaning of your tank. It scrapes algea off of tank glass and decorations without damaging the glass. They make these especially for glass or acrylic tanks so make sure you read the label to see which one it's for. Decorations and Plants- From driftwood to rocks to action aerating ornaments; from live plants, to silk plants, to plastic. Decorations are neccessary to create the ultimate environment for your fishy pals. They need hiding places, resting spots, and places to lay their eggs. Decorations are what make your tank original and artistic. Show off your sense of style! With all the products on the market today, that is very possible. You can even create a whole tank devoted to Spongebob Squarepants! This part is so fun it's easy to forget about the fish! You can use almost anything as long as it has not been treated with any chemicals. That includes soaking it in bleach! Only clean decorations with hot water. Do not put sea shells in an aquarium. See our live plants pages for more information on live plants. Munchies- Don't forget to get food those fishies can snack on! I recommend to use a variety of foods. You want to offer a "staple" flake, which is the basic diet of most fish, but they like to get offered at least one other food to make things interesting for the fish. Frozen brine shrimp or freeze dried bloodworms are a nice treat. What you choose to feed your fish depends on their species, so you might want to wait until you choose what species you are going to buy before you buy the food.
Wow! I realize this was a lot of information, but you guys can handle it! Once you've purchased all of the supplies, or at least all of the equipment for your tank, then you are ready to complete the next step, putting it all together! Click the "next" button to get there! Step Three: Setting It Up
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