The Fish Girl's Algae Page
Let's face it. Algae can be a fish keeper's pain-in-the-rear. These simple photosynthetic life forms operate according to simple principles… availability of space, light, nutrients, and a lack of predators and competitors. Use these tips that have worked for me and others to fight and win that war with the predator called algae. Now where's that ice pack...
Can Algae harm my fish??
No, actually, the only problem with algae is that it just looks bad. Period. Actually, aquariums with algae are known to have easy spawning and healthy fry. But you know what happends when you have too much of a good thing, it turns into a bad thing. Nobody wants their tank glass covered in filth, plus cloudy water everywhere! Maybe you're obsessed with having a spotless, clear view to see your fishy friends, or are too lazy to get up off that computer chair and do something about your festering problem. No matter who you are, these tips should help you solve your algae dilema. (Don't worry, that little, tiny green speck won't harm anything, we promise.)
How did it get there?
Like I said, all algae needs is space, light, nutrients, etc. etc. The main reason you probably have a big algae outbreak is either the aquarium is too close to natural sunlight, or your tank light is being turned on for too many hours in the day. Try to remeber to only leave your light on for 8-11 hours a day. (unless you have algae eaters to feed!) Fish need to sleep, and since they don't have eyelids, it is very important to turn the light off at night. (Or, do it the other way around! Turn it off in the day, and on at night! Makes a cool night light.) Whatever you do, make sure it's on for the same length of time every day. Having it on for 8 hours one day and 14 hours the next will confuse your fish. Getting a timer for your light is a good idea if you have a busy schedule and can easily forget. On at 6am, off at 6pm, or whatever. Algae can also come from the water your fish came from, the water in your tap, the air, or decorations and plants. Algae is everywhere.
Algae: Every shape, color, and form!
It's pretty easy to tell the different types of algae a part, once you know their differences. Every type of algea has a different color, texture, stubberness... You just gotta learn the ropes of algae indentifing. Sounds fun, doesn't it?
click name for a picture from www.aquaticscape.com
Beard Algae:
This form of algae grows on plant leaves. It's bright green, and individual strands have fine texture but it grows in thick patches much like a green beard, growing up to 4 cm. It does not indicate poor water quality, but it grows very fast and overtakes the tank. It cannot be removed mechanically. It can be eliminated with Simazine (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "Algae-Destroyer").
Blue-green Algae:
Also known as slime or smear algae, Blue-green algae is actually not true algae. It is actually cyanobacteria. Blue-green algae spreads rapidly over almost everything, and smothers and kills plants. It usually indicates poor water quality. However, Blue-green algae can actually fix nitrogen in aquariums. It looks like a slimy, bright green-ish blue material that covers everything. Scrub it off and then do a 50% water change. That should help, but it may come back. If you have a terrible outbreak of this stuff 200 mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water will usually eliminate blue-green algae, but it has been said that this can harm biological filters. If you use this stuff, be sure to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels.
Brown Algae:
I've found this the most easy algae to clean up. They're not true algae either, but are actually diatoms. They cover the glass, gravel, ornaments, plastic and real plants with a brown coating. Gravel siphoning and scrubbing it off should remove it. Most algae are attracted to an excess of light, but this form of algae comes up usually in new tanks or tanks with less light. Increasing the light will get rid of brown algae, but might bring up other types of algae. There are only very few algae eating fish who will eat brown algea. Plecostomus and otocinclus are the most likely fish to eat it, and probably only if they have no other food source.
Brush Algae:
This algae grows in feathery tufts 2-3 mm long. It tends to collect on slower growing leaves and wide leaf plants, and also on mechanical equipment. Remove and discard the effected leaves. Equipment can be soaked in a 25% bleach solution, then scrubbed and cleaned of the dead algae. Siamese algae eaters are known to eat this form of algae.
Film Algae:
Grows on the aquarium glass and forms a thin haze. Easily removed by wiping the glass.
Fuzz Algae:
Grows mostly on plant leaves as short, seperate strands. Easily controlled with algae eaters such as black mollies and siamese algea eaters.
Green Water:
Green water unicellular algae can reproduce so quickly that the water turns green. It's usually caused by too much direct sunlight. Filter with micron cartridges or diatom filters. Green water is very useful in the raising of daphnia and brine shrimp.
Hair Algae:
Hair algae grows in bright green clumps around mechanical objects, gravel, and at the base of plants. Easily removed by twirling a stick, toothbrush, or finger in it. American Flag Fish and Rosy Barbs are said to have eaten this.
Staghorn Algae:
Grows in single branching strands and is gray-green. Tends to grow near the surface and on tank equipment. Soak the equipment in a 25% bleach/water solution to remove it.
Hope this helps! If there is a type of algae I did not mention, or if you have any suggestions or pictures, or questions or comments, please
e-mail me!
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