Not only does Brownlow House claim' to be the largest Orange Hall in the
world but as the headquarters of the Imperial Grand Black Chapter of the British
Commonwealth, it is in fact well known throughout the world.
Brownlow House, built in an age of grandeur and cultured tastes, is an
imposing building. It has retained much of the atmosphere of bygone days and one
can readily pause and still imagine what life was like when it was occupied as a
dwelling. While the echo of successive Brownlow Households along its corridors
has long since died away, the building has however remained alive ever since it
became the home of Orangeism in Lurgan almost one hundred years ago.
Situated within a few minutes walk from the centre of the town, the House is
a prominent land mark with its lantern-shaped tower and forest of tall chimneys
dominating the skyline. It commands a fine view across the park and lake, which
were once part of Lord LurganS estate and are now owned by Craigavon Borough
Council. The building which is of Scottish sandstone was designed in the
Eliza-bethan style by the famous Edinburgh Architect, William Henry Playfair and
it was recently listed by the Department of Environment (NI) as being of special
architectural and historical interest. (The collection of Playfair's 383
drawings of the House are in Edinburgh University Library.) The elegant wrought
iron entrance gates are also listed. Originally the entrance to the avenue
started at Market Street where there was a stone-arched gateway and lodge house,
but no trace of either remains today. Likewise Castle Lane, where the previous
Lurgan Orange Hall Building had stood has also been demolished with other houses
once occupied by many of the tradesmen employed by the Brownlows.
The House contains many interesting features. The walls of the octagon shaped
reception room for instance have some of the finest examples of vert-antique
marble plaster, panelled and painted by Italian craftsmen. The ceilings of
several rooms are grained to represent expensive wood and over the grand
staircase carved from native oak, there is a beautiful example of free brush
work in the ceiling panels. Four heraldic shields of the McNeill, Kilmaine,
Brownlow and Dornley families, who were related by marriage, adorn the ceiling
of the entrance hallway and these same armorial bearings together with the
crests, are executed as eight stained glass windows on the grand staircase. The
House also had a warm air heating system ducted from a furnace in the
basement.
The early history of Lurgan has been associated with the Brownlow family
since the plantation of Ulster. Lurgan is derived from the name
Lurganballyvacken or Ballylurgan. John Brownlow and his son, William, came from
Basford near Nottingham when they were granted 2500 acres of land in the barony
of O'Neiland East by James 1 in 1610.
Carew in his Report of 1611 records that John and William Brownlow were both
resident and dwelling in an "Irish House". They had brought over six carpenters,
one mason, one tailor and six workmen and had placed one freeholder and six
tenants upon their lands. Prepa-rations were being made to build two bawns and
they had some muskets and other arms in readiness for defence of the properties.
By 1619 John Brownlow was dead and William came into posses-sion of the two
manors. Pynnar's "Survey" of that year states that there was "upon Ballynemony a
strong stone house within a good island and at Doughcoron a fair house of stone
and brick with a bawn of timber and earth with a pallazado about it and in
readiness lime and stone to make a bawn thereof in the summer". There was then a
very fair town consisting of forty-two houses, all inhabited by English
families, with streets paved clean through. There were also two water-mills and
a wind mill, all for corn, and a store of arms in the manor.
In 1629 William had a re-grant of the two manors by which they became united
as the Manor of Brownlow's Derry. At the same time a patent was issued for a
market every Friday at Ballylurgan and two fairs on the Feast of St. James and
Feast of St. Martin. By this time the town had become a place of importance in
the social life of the area and gives Lurgan's markets and fairs an ancestry of
over three hundred and twenty years.
In 1641 the Civil War broke out and Lurgan was taken by a force of native
soldiers said to have numbered 1,000 men. From Carte's "Life of Ormonde" the
outbreak was not entirely unexpected for Sir William Brownlow had been supplied
with powder for the defence of his Castle. The attack took place on the 23rd
October, 1641 (in his later account he changed the date to l st November) and
the raiding par-ties under the Macans, Magennises and the O'Hanlons burnt the
town and murdered several inhabitants. The Castle surrendered and Brownlow was
taken prisoner with his wife and children, first to Armagh, later to Dungannon
and finally to Charlemont where he was eventually freed by the English.
According to O'Mellan's Jour-nal there was a second burning of Lurgan in May
1642.
The town seems to have suffered little inconvenience during the Williamite
Wars. Some of Schomberg's troops were stationed in the town and neighbourhood
and the General made them responsible for the repair of the highway, with, of
course, an ulterior object in view - the facility of his troops when the
occasion should arise. Tra-dition says that during this work the General once
used the Blue Stone at Lylo as a luncheon table. The famous landmark is now
buried.
In the closing years of the 17th century Lurgan began to develop as a linen
manufacturing centre and Dr Thomas Molyneaux (of Castledillon) in his book
"Journey to ye north" written in 1708 de-scribes the town "at present the
greatest mart of linen manufacturers in the north being almost entirely peopled
with linen weavers, and all by the care and cost of Mr Brownlow, who on his
first establish-ing the trade here, bought up everything brought to the market
of cloth (linen) and lost at first considerably, but at length the thing fixing
itself, he is now by the same methods a considerable gainer. This gentleman is
more curious than ordinary and has by him sev-eral old Irish manuscripts which
he can read and understand very well. He shewed me one in parchment of the Bible
(as I remember) pretended to be written by St. Patrick's own hand but this must
be a fable. This gentleman is not satisfied about the petrifying qualities of
Lough Neagh waters .... Having supped with him we lay at an Inn."
In 1712 James Quin of Carlow was induced by William Brownlow to take up his
abode in Lurgan and begin the manufacture of damask and by 1714 fine cambric was
being produced in the district.
At that time the making of linen was an essentially domestic affair. Farmers
grew the flax on their wn lands and it was scutched at home. The families then
combined to spin the effected by the same hands. From Young's Tour Of Ireland
published in 1780, the writer mentions the great improvements Mr Brownlow had
made in his demesne. Although mainly concerned with agriculture but being in the
town on a Market Day he walked to the mart to see the way which linens and
cambrics were sold and gives an excellent account of the Proceedings. Weavers
were able to earn by coarse linens 1/-per day and by fine 1/4d, and the same
applied to the spinners - they received more for the fine yarns.
A Parcel of linen woven in 1809 was of such excellence that it was presented
to Princess Charlotte; and later on Lurgan canibrics were sent to Queen
Victoria.
The town then boasted a handsome Market House situated in the old Middle Row,
and a Line Hall built in 1825.
Lurgan was the second town in the County in importance in 1819 and it
contained 379 houses and 2207 inhabitants. The weekly trade in linen then
averaging from £2,500 to £3,000 per week.
The first power loom factory was built in 1855 by the Malcolms who, in the
days of handloom weaving, had been engaged in the manufacture of cambric. The
new venture was unpopular with the hand-loom weavers who gathered together on
one occasion to wreck the plant.
The Mechanics Institute was opened in 1858 and in 1865 the Liner, Hall was
abolished. Owing to industrial changes it had outlived its usefulness. In 1866
the Malcolms also established the first hem-stitching factory in the town.
Johnston, Allen & Co. was set up in 1867 for the manufacture of linen and
cambric by handloom but transferred to power-loom weav-ing in 1888. In an
account of Lurgan written in 1751 by the Rev. Richard Barton, there is a vivid
representation of the Lurgan linen market. While the linens were sold in the
open market they were measured under cover in the public houses and custom had
made it a rule that the sellers of webs should expend at least three-pence in
liquor for the good of the house.
In 1793 the Irish Militia was re-organised and county units raised. Lurgan,
possibly due to its geographical position, sent very few men into the Armagh
Militia. Three years later Yeomanry Corps formed and Lurgan acquired a Cavalry
and Infantry Corps - the latter in the next century became involved in certain
squabbles of a political na-ture, whereby its loyalty to authority became
suspect. Part of the trouble was due to the then agent who was very anti-Orange
in his views. A coat of the Lurgan Corps survives in the National Mu-seum,
Dublin, and very full records presented by the late Sir William Allen are
preserved in Armagh Museum.
In 1795 when the Orange Order was formed, its principles were quickly adopted
in Lurgan. In 1797 the town was the place of meet-ing for the second
demonstration since the Order's formation. Great preparations had been made.
From sunrise that morning crowds of people were on their way. Districts west of
the Bann joined together at Portadown where they were inspected by Major Acheson
(later Lord Gosford) then a candidate for the county.
About that time William Blacker of Carrickblacker received a present form his
grand-uncle, Col. Carey, of some horse furniture used by King William at the
battle of the Boyne, and the meeting was deemed a most fitting occasion for its
exhibition. Blacker, accordingly, placed it upon a magnificent black hunter and
escorted by twelve of the finest looking men in the country, all above six feet
high and dressed alike, two of whom led the horse whilst the others tried to
keep off the crowds who strove to touch the valued relics as they passed along.
They were accompanied by several hundred well-mounted horse-men, many of whom
had come from Killyman and other parts of Tyrone followed by the districts in
their order with all manner of music. The story from this point had best be told
in William Blacker's own words.
"At Lurgan we were met by two other processions from Down and Antrim and
there we found General Luke, the Commander-in-Chief of the Northern district,
waiting to receive us, attended by one or two other General officers and their
entire staff in full rig. We de-filed past these grandees near the head of the
Castle Lane, down which we proceeded into Mr Brownlow's demesne and round the
lake which was completely surrounded and more, the head of the procession having
reached the street of Lurgan again ere the last had entirely quitted it. 1 do
not recollect having ever since seen a sight so beautiful as the lake surrounded
as it was upon that occasion by a slow moving processional mass. The day was
extremely fine. The women gaily dressed were as numerous as the men. There was a
marked sparkling of scarlet, the Yeomanry wearing their uniforms, the Banners,
the music coming softened across the water, the gen-eral appearance of cheerful
exultation, all conspired to form a scene which can never be obliterated from my
memory. In less than two hours afterwards the town was cleared. My father and 1
dined there with a large party of gentlemen and on going home on horseback about
ten at night 1 do not think we saw four people on the road between Lurgan and
Carrick. One of these was old Frank Baird, a fiddle playing school-master from
Drunilyn Hill, whom we came up with near the "Red Cow" fiddling and dancing a
pass seul along the road which he actually kept up with unabated spirit until we
reached the turn to Carrick and no doubt continued it the entire way to his
domicile. It has frequently happened to me to traverse many miles of the country
on the night of the 12th of July and 1 can safely assert that I invariably found
the roads more quiet on that night than on any other. It seemed a point of
honour among the Protestants to keep that night from becoming marked by an
impropriety. Men whose conduct might be loose enough 364 nights in the year were
on their guard on that one."
In September 1912 the Ulster Covenant was signed at Brownlow House by
thousands of Lurgan people and not a few were called to make the supreme
sacrifice between 1914 and 1918. Many of them were Orange Brethren and their
names are all recorded on the roll of honour at the town's war memorial.
At the outbreak of the first World War, Brownlow House was the headquarters
of the 16th Battalion Royal Irish Rifles and the 10th Battalion Royal Irish
Fusiliers. The flag of the Old Comrades Association of the former Battalion and
the Kings Colour of the 2nd Battalion of the Royal Irish Fusiliers are laid up
in Shankill Parish Church.
In the second World War that readiness to serve King and Country was again
demonstrated and indeed more recently many have been serving in the defence of
freedom and for the right to remain British.
Various contingents of British and American troops were stationed in Lurgan
between 1939 and 1945 and when the United States forces were billeted in
Brownlow House, General Dwight D. Eisenhower, the Supreme Allied Commander is
said to have spent at least one night there with his men. The corridor to the
room in the House where he slept is still called the Officer's Corridor. One of
the stained glass heraldic panes on the grand staircase was removed then
reputedly by the Yanks as a memento of their stay. It has however been replaced
by a replica.
A few years before the re-organisation of local government took place in 1973
in Northern Ireland, the Trustees of Brownlow House were pleased to put part of
the House at the disposal of Lurgan Borough Council, The RUC had requisitioned
the Town Hall after the barracks in Church Place had been bombed by the IRA. The
dining room of the House was used as the Council Chamber. The Brownlow family
motto "Esse quam videri" surrounds the cipher letters WAB (William Arthur
Brownlow) above the archway in this room. The Latin can be freely translated "To
be, rather than to seem" and the sentiment is not unlike that of Lurgan Borough
Council motto, which was "Be just and fear not", (Craigavon Borough Council's
motto is "Together we progress")
The first Lord Lurgan was one of the fourteen members elected to the newly
formed Town Commissioners in 1843, the predecessors of Lurgan Urban and Borough
Councils. The 4th Lord Lurgan in fact presented Lurgan Borough Council with the
Mayoral chain of office. It incorporates the Brownlow armorial bearings. The
link with the new Borough is perpetuated as the same chain is still is use and
worn by the Mayor of Craigavon Borough Council.
Further evidence of the Brownlow link with Lurgan is seen in Shankill Parish
Church. The stained glass window on the south side the chan-cel, representing
Faith, Hope and Charity was erected by the second Lord Lurgan in memory of his
father. Shankill meaning the "old church" is a very ancient parish as the name
implies. Documentary evidence traces its history back to 141 1, when the parish
of Kilwilke was subsequently changed to "Kilymlcon" and later to "St Finton
alias Caillmore". The church originally stood in the townland of Annaloiste on
the shores of Lough Neagh to the north of Lurgan. When Lurgan developed, a site
in the town for the Church of Shankill was found in what is now the old Shankill
graveyard. This site is now occupied by the Brownlow family vault. In the
intervening years with the increasing population a new site for the Church had
to be obtained and with permission from the Irish parliament, it was built on
the "Fair Green of Lurgan"
The present Church was erected and consecrated on 8 August 1725. The spire,
which had been added, was burned by a fire in 1792 and the wooden one that
replaced it was blown down by the wind one stormy evening in 1839. Enlarged in
1832 at a cost of £1,000 it was subsequently taken down to allow the present
building to be erected in 1863. The new Church cost £8,000 and is reputed to be
the larg-est Parish Church in Ireland, capable of seating almost 2,000 peo-ple.
The only relic from the old Church in Shankill graveyard transferred were the
stone baptismal font, dated 1684, and the silver communion vessels made in
1696.
Lurgan like other towns of Northern Ireland has had its share of sectarian
violence and vandalism. The murder of the young Soldier, Private Paul Genge by
the IRA on 7th November 1971 near the hospital was the first of many tragic
deaths in and around our town, Good men and women, as they endeavour to maintain
law and order have been severely tried and tested in the cause of Civil and
Religious liberty. The destruction of property which has been widespread has
included Brownlow House. There have been at least three serious attempts to burn
it. The wing occupied by the Imperial Grand Black Chapter was destroyed by a
petrol bomb on the night of 28 November 1979 and a similar attack on a previous
occasion damaged another part of the building occupied by Lurgan Purple Star
Orange Lodge.
Major repairs and renovations were carried out with the assistance of a
government grant aided ACE scheme and the House was restored somewhat to its
former glory. The building was re-opened after the first phase of restoration by
the Most Worshipful Brother Rev. Martin Smyth BA, BD, MP, Grand Master of the
Grand Lodge of Ireland on 3 July 1982 and it was followed by a mini- twelfth
parade through the town. This parade has now become an annual event and is an
important part of the twelfth celebrations in the town.
The furnishing of the room by the Imperial Grand Black Chapter in memory of
the late Brother and Sir Knight H A Cushnie MBE, JP, has been a fitting tribute
not only to his long service as Grand Registrar but also to the fact that he was
45 years Secretary to the House Management Committee.
Brownlow House was opened as an Orange Hall on 4 July 1903 and the ceremony
was performed by Brother Colonel Wallace. Brother Sir James Strong, County Grand
Master of Armagh presided and the brethren present were not only from County
Armagh but special trains to Lurgan conveyed some 1200 from Belfast and 400 from
Dublin.
During 1996 several attempts were made to bum the building but on 30th August
an arson attack destroyed almost 50% of the building. The magnificent oak carved
staircase and stained glass window bearing the Brownlow family crest were
completely destroyed as were many other priceless artifacts. At the height of
the fire nine fire crews including crews from Armagh and Belfast were in
attendance As a result of their actions in arduous conditions a considerable
amount of valuable memorabilia, documentation and relics were saved, including a
famous painting of Sir William Allen by Frank McKelvey and the mounted hares
used in the Waterloo Cup won by Master McGrath were saved.
As the firemen damped down the blaze members of Lodges and Preceptories
formed a human chain and worked tirelessly to salvage drums, banners and
paintings.
Ignoring warnings by the fire crew the Worshipful District Master Samuel
Gardiner and Bro Clive Higginson entered the building and through the smoke and
burning embers made their hazardous joumey to the tower where they proudly
hoisted the Union flag.