Trip Report
August 8th -27th 2006
Sue Bryan and Paul Jeffery
Lois and Bill Lang
Ann and Peter Joliffe
Thomas Valqui
Introduction
Peru
is a fascinating country with many diverse habitats, including lowland
jungle, cloud forests, high altitudes and deserts. It claims to have
one of the highest species count of birds in the world. Because of
difficult logistics (with no available roads or tracks in the Amazonia Basin) Paul and I knew we would need some help in the ground arrangements. At Birdfair 2005 we met Thomas Valqui ( tvalqu1@lsu.edu)
who seemed to have part of the package we required consisting of the
Manu Road, Manu Wildlife Centre, Cock of the Rock Lek, High Andes,
Machu Picchu and some coastal work. The dates Thomas offered through
his company of Gran Peru (www.granperu.com) in alliance with Inka Natura Travel (www.inkanatura.com)
seemed to offer most of what we wanted with the exception of coastal
birding. This did not bother us as this was easy to arrange as an
addition to the main tour.
Machu Picchu
Flights costing £793 to Lima (via Amsterdam) from Norwich were arranged using www.lastminute.com
Thomas has recently published a site guide for Peru
and is currently researching tinnamous for his doctoral thesis. Thomas
acted as our guide along with 4 other participants for most of our tour
and Gran Peru in conjunction with Inka Natura arranged all accommodation (hotels or wildlife lodges in Amazonia) and logistics. Given the nature of travel in the jungle and on the Manu Road, involving an internal flight between Lima and Cusco,
boats, a small 12 seater plane, trains, raft and minibuses, Paul and I
were impressed by the organisation. The cost for this section of the
tour (barring a couple of meals) amounted to around £2600. With Thomas
we visited a coastal marsh in Lima, Machu Picchu, Cusco, Manu Road, and Manu before retuning to Lima.
After bidding farewell to Thomas we hired a car from Budget (www.budget.com) at Lima Airport and drove southwards along the coastal Pan American highway to Paracas in the Atacama Desert. Paracas is a small fishing community offering boat trips to the Ballesteros Islands. We stayed for the first night at the El Mirador Hotel (reserves@elmiradorhotel.com)
a reasonably priced but fairly basic hotel minutes from the beach.
Because the hotel was fully booked for the next few nights we found
some self-catering accommodation in the village for our remaining
nights.
After
returning to Lima via San Pedro Fields (see Thomas’s site guide) for
another night we headed north along the Pan American highway to a
reserve at Lachay for our last remaining habitat of coastal scrub,
where Paul got his much desired Least Seedsnipe tick! It must be said
though; driving in the city of Lima
is not for the feint hearted as there don’t seem to be any ‘rules of
the road’! A city map is essential as road signs are few and far
between. Once out of the city the Pan American highway was easy driving.
Birding around Cusco and the Manu Road
involves high altitudes. I spent part of my time feeling very unwell
with altitude sickness. This condition can affect the young and old,
fit and unfit alike. We also took tablets for Mararia prevention
because we were in a Malaria region at Manu Wildlife Centre. We used
American Dollars at the bigger hotels but obtained some local currency
(Sol) for local craft markets and café purchases. This is available at
the hotels in exchange for American Dollars.
6th August
Flew from Norwich to Amsterdam with KLM. Over-night in Amsterdam
7th August
Flew from Amsterdam to Bonaire Island just off the Venezuelan coast. (Lesser Antilles) Onward to Lima. Over-night in Lima.
8th August
An early morning walk in the park just outside our hotel produced Amazilia Hummingbird, Saffron Finch, and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet as well as many common species. After our walk in the park we drove just outside Lima to Villa Marshes for some coastal/marsh birds. Highlights included Least Bittern, Puna Ibis, Plumbeous Rail and Andean Duck. The day was ended at Pucusana, a busy fishing harbour where Peruvian Pelicans and Guanay Cormorants bedecked every available rooftop.
Green Heron
Slate-colored Coot
Band-tailed Gull
Peruvian
Pelican
Peruvian
Thick-knee
Black Vulture
Walking around the cliff-top just before dusk Humboldt Penguins can be seen coming and going from the sea-caves. Inca Terns and Surf Cinclodes can also be seen around the rocks. We ended the day on 61 species.
9th Aug
An early morning flight took us over the Andes and into Cusco.
The ‘thin-ness’ of air was immediately apparent with laboured breathing
and pounding hearts. After dropping off our luggage at the hotel we
tried to bird a higher valley, however we were all feeling the effects
of the altitude with bad headaches. The weather turned cold and
generally miserable. The birds were obviously not keen on it and
disappeared. However we had excellent views of Giant Hummingbird and our first tanagers. Blue-grey Tanager is a bird, along with Chiguanco Thrush, that we were to see many times. Our tally rose to 80 species.
Blue-grey Tanager
10th August
At
a busy station we boarded the train that took us down a river valley
for two hours to the bottom of a steep track-way that lead to Machu Picchu.
Luckily we had been allocated river-side seats that allowed us to
birdwatch for the whole journey. The fast-flowing mountain river had
many Torrent Ducks posing on rocks as well as Torrent Tyrannulets
catching any available food that the river provided as it crashed on
its way. On reaching the end of the train track we transfered to a
never ending stream of buses that transported us up a hair-pin bend
track-way that doubled as a road.
Torrent Duck
The hair-pin track-way
Machu Picchu
It is an understatement to say the sight of Machu Picchu
was wonderful. It was AWESOME. Words cannot describe this wonderful
place, so I won’t! During a tour from well-meaning tourist guide, I
managed to sneak away, just to take in the beauty of the place by
my-self. We then re-grouped in the search for Inca Wren. The climb up to the Sun Gate was arduous with the lack of oxygen and racing hearts. However Inca Wren was soon located as was Cusco Brush-Finch. Superciliaried Hemipingus
also left us tongue-tied for a while! We returned back down the track,
after leaving the ruins a little late to make the most of the birding,
to our hotel at Machu Picchu.
11th Aug
The gardens at the Machu Picchu
hotel are ideal for birding. It was easy to sit at one spot and watch
the birds in the trees and on the feeders. Tanagers and hummingbirds
were everywhere. Humming birds included Chestnut Coronet, Sparkling Violetear, White-bellied Woodstar and Violet-throated Starfrontlet. The tanagers came thick and fast at times and included Hepatic Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Beryl Spangled Tanager, Fawn-breasted Tanager, Blue and Black Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Blue and Black Tanager, Silver-backed Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager and small parties of Silver-beaked Tanagers. Mid-afternoon we boarded the train back to Cusco
but unfortunately did not have river-side seats and viewing conditions
for birding was very restricted. It was nightfall by the time we
returned to our hotel.
Silver-beaked Tanager
12th August
An early rise meant that we were out birding on Haucarpay Lake in the early morning. This RAMSAR site is an excellent high Andean
marsh holding many waterbirds as well as the endemic Bearded Mountaineer Hummingbird. Puna Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Cinnamon Teal and Yellow-winged Blackbirds were all easy to see. However the Bearded Mountaineer gave us the run-around and quickly flitted through. Another endemic that gave us a hard time was the Rusty-fronted Canastero that we located in the scrub on the hillside at the side of the lake. The day finished with a superb flight of a pair of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles above the mountain-side in a clear blue sky.
Yellow-billed Pintail and Cinnamon Teal
13th August
Today was going to be a long day with the start of the journey along the famous ‘Manu Road’.
We first had to travel back to HuarcarpayLake, which given the stunning
scenery was a pleasure. We stopped for another quick scan as Paul is a
wader fan and was keen to increase his chances of his sought after
waders. Unfortunately I was not able to put him onto a disappearing
view of Puna Snipe quickly enough. Once we left the lake, the ascent of the Andes
started and the road surface disappeared. The bumpy track-way was set
to continue for the next 4 days, which ordinarily would not be a
problem, but for those of us throwing up because of altitude sickness,
it was to become a real headache (literally)! Still at this point we
were all still OK and enjoying the scenery from the minibus as we
started the ascent. Very soon we were near the top of the first pass at
3900 metres. We stopped to watch a pair of Mountain Caracaras just
before another couple of stops, one to admire some pre-Inca ruins and
another for lunch. The lunch stop proved productive with Moustached Flowerpiercer, Great Thrush, Brown-backed Chat-tyrant and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager all being added to the list as we ate.
The Manu Road with Pre-Inca ruins
Profile of the Manu Road
As we descended over the last pass we stopped in a village to stretch our legs for some welcome birding. I spotted a Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan high up in one of the trees that was quickly followed by a Blue-capped Tanager and a Cinnamon Flycatcher. We were to see many of these delightful flycatchers all down the Manu Road. As night fell we disturbed a Band-winged Nightjar from the road and our driver knew of a spot where, superb views of Lyre-tailed Nightjars were had. What a tail!
We
arrived at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge in the dark, tired but very pleased
with all the events of the day. The lodge provides wooden cabins with
shower/toilet and candles to see in the dark with so a torch is a
‘must’ for getting to the wooden dining room that has a wonderful
veranda with feeders and flowering shrubs suitable for hummingbirds.
14th August
The
day I had been waiting for, for many years had finally arrived. After
getting up before first light I was in position sitting in a hide on a
mountain-side looking through the tree canopy. It was still very gloomy
as strange noises began. Suddenly we were aware of spots of bright red
appearing as 10 or more male
Cock-of-the-Rock males stared lekking, by flapping their wings
displaying to several females that were also present. As day dawned it
was a stunning display!
Cock-of the-rock
Cock-of-the-rock Lek
Sun Bittern
I could have sat for hours but breakfast called at the lodge, after which we walked a jungle trail
below the lodge following the course of a river. At one point, we had
to cross the river in a contraption suspended on a wire! We had a good
mix of birds including, Black-bellied Thorntail, Booted Racket-tail, Yellow-throated Bush-tanager and wonderful views of a Sun Bittern standing on the rocks of the fast flowing river.
Woolly Monkey
After lunch we returned up the Manu Road for more spotlight views of the Lyre-tailed Nightjar at dusk but not before we had seen, Paradise Tanager and Bay-headed Tanagers as well as Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Many-spotted Hummingbird, Yungas Manakin and Violet-fronted Brilliant. We also heard and saw a family party of Woolly Monkeys crashing through the trees
15th August
We were up before first light and boarded the minibus to return up the Manu Road.
The altitude was beginning to get to me and I developed a nagging
headache. Never-the-less I obviously didn’t want to miss out on the
birding. White-throated Tyrannulet, Glossy Black Thrush, Three -striped Warbler and Common Bush-tanager were recorded. Hummingbirds still abounded with Scaled Metal-tail, Mountain Velvetbreast, Long-tailed Sylph and Brown Violetear
all being added to the list. However it was becoming more and more
difficult to focus my eyes as my headache intensified. My stomach was
soon heaving and I was having difficulty standing up. I realised I was
in trouble and a decision was made that I needed to lose some altitude
and fast! The driver of the minibus was superb as we had to stop three
times on the way back down to the lodge for me to throw up. Every bump
on the road was agony for my head and stomach. I was never so pleased
to see my bed where at that moment death seemed a preferable option!
16th August
Once
again I was up before first light to get into the Cock-of-the rock hide
to get a last chance to witness the amazing sight of the lek. Once
again I was not disappointed. I waited until everyone else had left to
have a few special moments to myself. I looked up and to my amazement a
Cock-of –the-rock came to pose just above my head by the track-way. A
memorable way to say goodbye!
I re-joined the others quickly adding Slaty Ant-wren, Yellow-throated Tanager, Crimson-crested Woodpecker and Striped-chested Ant-wren. After breakfast we bid our fare-wells to the lodge and continued our way down the Manu Road. As we lost altitude I began to feel better. Suddenly the habitat changed as we met the lowlands.
A village appeared as did some smoke as the villagers practised ‘slash and burn’ to raise crops and feed animals. I spotted a Cuvier’s Toucan perched high in a tree as Magpie Tanagers made their way through the lower bushes. A Plum-throated Cotinga added
to the new delights. Soon we reached the end of the road, literally!
The only way to continue our journey was by boat. We boarded the boat
with all our luggage and set off down the Madre de Dios River,
one of the Amazon’s tributaries. The wide river was flowing at great
speed due to the recent rains. Skilful boatmen weaved us in and out the
fallen trees as made our way to Amazonia Lodge, an hour downstream in
the rain. The river held several new ticks for us including, Faciated Tiger Heron and Ringed Kingfisher. Many Snowy Egrets stood by the river’s edge throughout our journey.
On arrival at the lodge we sat on the balcony and watched a Pale-legged Hornero pick his way under the bushes as a variety of birds visited the flowering shrubs and feeders.
Amazonia
Lodge
Black-billed
Thrush
Red-capped Cardinal
A Blue-tailed Emerald delighted us on the flowers as did a Red-capped Cardinal, Black-billed Thrush and Masked Crimson Tanager on
the bird table. However the rain increased and thunderstorm intensified
as we had our evening meal and made our way to bed. It certainly knows
how to rain in the tropics!
Masked-crimson Tanager
17th August.
After breakfast we climbed our way up a steep jungle trail. It was disappointingly quiet but we did see White-necked Jacobin and Emerald Toucanette
before we started our ascent. The observation tower at the end of the
trail was about 100 foot high. Normally I don’t have a problem with
heights but this one was on the wobble and I didn’t feel at all safe.
Even climbing up the steps gave me the jitters. Once at the top, the
views were magnificent but I chose to sit for most of the time where I
felt a little safer. We had excellent views of Purple Honeycreeper, Green Honeycreeper, Blue Dachnis and Blue-chinned Sapphire in the canopy of the tree. Up in the air White Hawk and a King Vulture put on a marvellous display. I was pleased with a Horned Screamer that flew by in the distance.
Later we walked around an Ox-bow lake that produced our first Howatzins. A Double-toothed Kite perched in a tree above our heads as I spotted a Short-tailed Swift in
the air. After lunch we were thwarted by rain and sat on the balcony
waiting for it to abate. An hour before dusk we set off down a jungle
trail in search of tinamous. We were not to be disappointed. On the
track a Greater Tinamou walked around 20 metres in
front of us. The rain however had other ideas about our birding and we
beat a hasty retreat back to the lodge, but not before I flushed a
second tinamou off the pathway.
18th August
Heavy
rains overnight continued as we awoke. Our birding was confined to
views from the balcony. However, today was to be a day of river travel,
as we were due to go downstream to Manu Wildlife Centre, a place that
many birders in England
have told us about. Firstly we had to travel upstream to get rid of
most of our luggage that was going to be taken back to our hotel in Cusco.
Eventually we would be taken out of the jungle on a small aircraft that
only had a small luggage allowance. We boarded our boat to deliver our
luggage to our faithful driver who had the unenviable job of driving
over the bumpy track-way over the pass back to Cusco.
After an hour or so on the much raised river levels we bid fare-well to
our driver and turned the boat around for our 7 hour journey down the
river to Manu.
A White-banded swallow was an addition to our list as was a Capped Heron and Yellow-billed Tern as
we started our journey down stream. It was still raining and those of
us at the front of the boat were glad of our waterproofs but we still
managed some excellent sightings in the shape of a Great Black Hawk and a Red-throated Caracara. For me this completed the Caracara set but I was still impressed by sightings of Black Skimmers, a
species I have seen before but one of nature’s wonders. After 7 hours
and some excellent relaxing birding we arrived at Manu to be greeted by
the manager of the centre.
Docking at Manu Wildlife Centre
Our Cabin at Manu Wildlife Centre
After settling in we added Bluish-fronted Jacamar to the list as well as Spix’s Woodcreeper but our owling efforts after our evening meal came to nothing except finding a scorpion on the pathway!
19th August
Sand-coloured Nighthawks and a Channel-billed Toucan started
our day off as we headed down river towards what Manu is famed for.
After landing at the river-side a short walk took us to a floating hide
that was definitely aground! As we settled in for a long vigil amply
supplied with drinks and Maple Syrup Pancakes (yummy!), parrots seemed
to be everywhere. Hundreds of Blue-headed Parrots came down onto the clay-lick in front of us.
Blue-headed
Parrots in their hundreds on the
Clay-lick
Blue-headed Parrot
Red-and-green Macaws on the clay-lick
We searched amongst the parrots and found Mealy Parrots, Orange-cheeked Parrots and Yellow-crowned Parrots. A Zoned-tailed Hawk caused consternation amongst the birds as it wheeled overhead. Soon Red and Green Macaws started
settling in the tops of trees and took their time coming onto the lick.
However it was a spectacular sight not to be missed. Meanwhile at the
back of the hide a Barred Antshrike was putting on a good show in the reeds. As we walked back to the boat several hours later we spotted a Lineated Woodpecker high up in the trees.
Our
next stop was a river island. These can often be good for birding as
they offer a different habitat, particularly if they have a large patch
of Bamboo. We added White-lined Antbird, Red-billed Scythebill, Dusky-tailed Flatbill, Cabanis’ Spinetail and Great Antshrike to
our lists. We returned to our cabins very satisfied with our day’s
sightings. However the day was not finished, as we set out once again
to the most bizarre lick to date! En-route we had an excellent view of
a Variegated Tinamou that performed very well for those with cameras. An Ocellated Poorwill also perched well as we watched it in the torchlight.
After
what seemed like an age we arrived at our destination along the trail.
It was now pitch-black and we were a little unsure as to what was
expected of us or what was going to happen. The Amazon jungle is a dark
place at night and we were instructed to climb up the platform onto an
individual mattress under a mosquito net without using our headlamps or
torches. I could not even see Paul who was right next to me! It is a
strange feeling being in the jungle without any light at all, listening
to all the noises that a jungle has to offer! Sleep seemed a good
option after a good day’s birding, but I was all too aware of something
happening and so after a short wait I popped my head outside the
mosquito net. A chap indicated that I should walk along the platform a
short way and sit in the complete darkness! I grabbed Paul for some
security, not that he knew what was happening either. I could still not
see him sitting right next to me.
Eventually
a crashing noise was heard and an infra-red torch was switched on.
There in front of us was a Tapir that had come down to a small
clay-lick. The animal was much bigger than I expected. All too soon the
torch was switched off as tapirs are extremely shy nocturnal animals.
Later the torch illuminated another animal and we returned along the
trail back towards our cabins. Along the way we were suddenly surprised
as a Tapir crashed through the undergrowth across our path. It was a
heart-stopping moment!
20th August
Once
again after a short boat ride we climbed up the observation tower at
Manu. Luckily this time, although much higher, it was at least stable!
Excitement grew as an eagle landed in a distant tree that appeared to
be all white in colour. A scope was needed to get a decent view.
However it was not a Harpy Eagle as we had all hoped but a juvenile
Ornate Hawk-eagle.
Steps up to the Observation Tower View
from the
top Ornate Hawk-eagle
It was a slow start but a lovely morning. Black-tailed Tityra, Large Elaenia and Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet gave some of our party difficulty as often birds appear all at once and skill is required to make sure that they are all seen. An Orange-fronted Plushcrown showed at the same time and quickly disappeared as a Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner put in appearance in a different tree.
Canopy
birding can often be exciting as it is wonderful to be at the same
height as the birds themselves. After several hours we suddenly
realised that we had a Great Potoo sharing our tree and we were right underneath it. I could not get over the fact that exactly the same had happened to me in Ecuador in 1997.
Later
on we walked to an Ox-bow lake where a raft was awaiting us. Our
boatmen paddled us quietly along the lake. This was absolute bliss in
the hot sun streaming down on us! This is what I call easy birding, so
relaxing! Absolutely wonderful! Lesser Kiskadees accompanied us until a Swallow-tailed Kite sailed overhead. Purus Jacamars sat on over-hanging branches as we glided underneath while a Sungrebe was an addition to the list. A Troupial brightened up the morning still further as a Rufescent Tiger-heron alighted from its perch. We were also intrigued by some bats that were roosting on the side of a tree led in the water.
Bats at the side of the side of the tree Thomas
working really
hard!
Great Potoo
All
too soon our wonderful morning was over and it was back to the lodge
before some did ‘The Grid’ whilst I caught up with my notes lying in a
hammock. Peace! Once darkness had fallen Paul, Thomas and I went
‘owling’. Unfortunately only two owls were heard but not seen.
21st August
We
said our goodbyes to Manu and boarded our boat for our last trip up
river. Two hours later we arrived at a tiny grass air-strip and a
12-seater plane that was to take us back to Cusco.
We had wonderful views of the vastness of the Amazon Jungle as well as
the mountain passes that we had travelled over along the Manu Road.
Our 12 seater plane
Paul in Cusco
Once back in Cusco we were re-united back with our luggage and birded the valley that we had seen so little in, on our first arrival in Cusco. This time it was a little better and Paul got his Puna Snipe as well as us all seeing Andean Goose and Plumbeous Sierra Finch. Streak-throated Canastero and Puna Ground-tyrant were
also added to the list. We tried to make it to the top of the pass but
once up above the cloud-line it was a hopeless task for birding. We
could not see a thing in the thick cloud. We were up so high
(4100metres) that the altitude was making two of us feel quite ill
again. This was our last night with Thomas and our fellow travellers
and although not feeling very well, Paul and I both made it to the
farewell meal in Cusco.
22nd August
We caught the morning flight to Lima and said our farewells to our fellow birders. Thomas helped us with the hiring of our car once we were back at Lima Airport,
which was just as well as it took over an hour of inefficiency of the
staff to sort out even though we had pre-booked it. Once into the Lima
traffic, the night-mare started. There are no ‘rules of the road’. The
free-for-all is not helped by the lack of road signs or non-existent
street names. I had three road maps none of which had any scale on for
the city driving. Luckily Thomas had drawn a route to leave the city on
which he said was the main flow of traffic. After an hour of
hair-raising driving (don’t tell Paul that I had my eyes shut half the
time, even though I was meant to be navigating) Paul managed to get the
car out of the city without a major incident. Once onto the Pan American Highway it was all plain sailing!
One small point I had failed to notice when planning the trip was that Lima to Paracas is part of the Atacama Desert.
The scenery was…………….well desert, lots of sand! With the guide book
that Thomas had kindly given to us (Where to Watch Birds in Peru, Thomas Valqui) we stopped off at San Pedro Fields. Here we saw Wilson’s Phalarope, Willet, Least Sandpiper, Peruvian Tern, Semi-palmated Plover and Semi-palmated Sandpiper as well as Grey Plover and Sanderling as additions to the list. A hundred miles later we arrived at Paracas and found The Mirador Hotel. (reservas@elmiradorhotel.com)
Paracas is a small bustling coastal village set in the middle of
nowhere surrounded by sand! We could not see how we were going to
encounter any birds at all. However………………
23rd August
A lie-in today! We got up for 7am so that we could be at the Quay-side for the early morning boats to the Ballesteros Islands.
However the coastguards at Pisco deemed it too misty and we had a few
hours delay on leaving. Once on the water Paul and I were amazed at the
sheer numbers of sea-birds. Peruvian Booby, Blue-footed Booby, Peruvian Pelican and Guanay Cormorant were everywhere. Over a million
cormorants were
nesting on one of the islands, 12 birds per square metre! Constant
streams of boobies were in flight above our heads, as we tossed about
in the waves. Inca Tern and Red-legged Cormorants Peruvian Boobies in flight were also nesting on the cliff ledges as we edged near to get photographs.
.