Trip Report to South
March/April 2005
Sue Bryan and Paul Jeffery
Introduction
This
bird watching holiday was organised mainly using resources found on the
internet. Although primarily a birding trip we also tried to find some
time to visit local places of interest. Although we have both birded in
Itinerary
25th March Fly from Heathrow to
26th-29th March Atlantic Cloud Forest and Coast with Richard Raby at Marica rrabybrasil@yahoo.com www.brazilbirding.com
30th-31st March (Tourist time) Staying at
1st-3rd April Fly to
4th-9th April Cloud Forest, Serra dos Tucanos Birding Lodge with Andy Foster www.serradostucanos.com.br
Flights
International flights to
Climate
The
weather was very warm and sunny along the coast at Marica. North of
Marica the low lying mountains attracted some cloud which increased the
humidity, nevertheless this was far from uncomfortable. Thankfully the
threat of rain was minimal and we luckily avoided a tropical downpour.
As we drove into
The
habitats we visited during our 5 day stay at Marica were the coastal
lagoons, marsh, restinga and the beach just south of the town. Most of
these habitats could be reached with as little as 5 minutes drive from
the birding lodge. To the north of the town there were open fields and
lowland grasslands. There were three jungle trails to be explored,
Boqueirao was the steepest climb rising to 600m, Espriado was rather
easier rising to 300m to 400m, Serera de Tiririca like was a low
hill-side and the climbing effort was minimal. To the east of Marica
there were large lagoons and salt pans at
At
The birding lodge at Serra dos Tucanos was in a wonderful setting with fantastic views of the cloud forest viewed from the terrace. Daily trips to cloud forest and steep mountain trails were arranged passing open fields. One high altitude trail affords some wonderful scenery.
Daily Log
25th March
After an uneventful flight from Heathrow via

Paul and Richard Raby
26th March (Marica)
After a 0630hrs breakfast we were out in the field by 0700hrs, this was the pattern throughout our stay at Marica. After a short 5 minute drive, Richard took us to a coastal marsh; here there were small marshy pools, reed beds and larger lakes. This habitat was adjacent to the restinga coastal dune system. A good full-day’s birding was enjoyed without venturing too far, a perfect day after a day of travel. The weather was cloudy all day with the threat of rain which fell intermittently but lightly. By the end of the day we had clocked up 93 species.


White-headed Marsh Tyrant Tropical Kingbird

Yellow-chinned Spinetail Masked Water Tyrant

Masked Yellowthroat Campo Flicker
27th March (Marica-Mount Boqueiro)
An early morning visit to the coastal marsh preceded a short drive east along the BR101 the main road to


Greater Kiskadee Scaly-headed Parrot
At the end of the day Richard took us to a parrot roost, but although the noise was tremendous viewing conditions were difficult and we could only see a few birds flying in.
March 28th (Marica- Espiado)
Unfortunately I woke up clearly unwell. I think I have the flu. However we head off for the marsh again and I decide that I would rather take it easy so stay in one spot digiscoping whilst Paul and Richard go off in search of new birds. After a while we wander along the beach where I attempt a few shots of plovers in the heat running on the sand. Later we headed inland to climb the smaller dryer slope of Espiado. Luckily for me the climb is much more open and pleasant with a climb of 300 to 400m. The good early light remained with us throughout the day. In the evening Richard and Paul returned to the marsh but I take to my bed to nurse my now aching limbs, hoping that I may feel better in the morning.



Rufous-tailed Jacamar Collared Plover Savannah Hawk
March 29th
My
flu has not abated and I have had a bad night of cold shivers. We set
off visiting lowland fields before moving into the lowland forest at
Serera de Tiririca. Luckily the trail is only a gentle one and I manage
to keep pace. Moving east along the BR101 towards

Guira
Cuckoo
March 30th (
Another bad night of tossing and turning meant that by
After breakfast Richard had kindly agreed to take us to


Aracetiba Lagoon at Marica Sue with Christ the Redeemer
March 31st (
A lie in Yipee! So the extract in my diary reads. I know that my ill body desperately needed to rest so the lie in was greatly welcomed. Today we took a taxi to Sugar Loaf Mountain at an exorbitant price. Had we known that it was so close we could have walked it (if I had been fit!). The trip to the top involved 2 cable car rides, but once again the views were stunning. The afternoon was spent lazing on the beach, or in Paul’s case swimming in the surf and getting badly burnt once again (will he ever learn?) The only birding involved was watching the numerous Magnificent Frigate birds wheeling around overhead as we soaked up the atmosphere on the beach.

Paul at
April 1st (
A


Iguacu Falls


The Tropical Das Cataratas HotelIguaçu
April 2nd (

Red-breasted Toucan
After lunch we had arranged for a taxi to take us to
The collection of shops in the building we were taken to, were all selling electrical/high value camera goods, ostensibly duty free. We had been pre-warned that many could be fake. We had a nightmare of a return journey, as sure enough the police had closed the bridge and we had no option but to sit in an enormous queue for hours and wait for it to reopen. The ensuing scrabble to reach the bridge first, once it was reopened, was not an experience that I would want to repeat in a hurry.
Once we were safely returned to our hotel, we walked down to the Falls to see the Great Dusky Swifts swirling around overhead, just prior to their roosting behind the Devil’s Throat Falls.
Our tally of birds seen in
April 3rd (
We woke up to the sound of a tropical downpour. It was also very chilly. After breakfast it was still raining but at least the ferocity of it had eased a little. I decided that we would need the assistance of an umbrella if we were to have any chance of keeping our optics dry. We ventured out following a cutting through the forest made for the electricity pylons. This proved quite productive and brought our tally to 183 species. A Surucua Trogon seemed to be amused as much by us, as we were of it, as it posed on the wires and trees.

Surucua Trogon
The rain continued even more heavily into the afternoon. I decided to call it a day and caught up with bird notes back in the hotel whilst Paul continued on getting very wet indeed!
April 4th (Iguaçu Falls- Serra dos Tucanos)
After
birding in the early morning on another trail out of the back of the
hotel, leading to the other vista of the bend in the river, we saw more
toucans and trogons. By 1030hrs we were back on our way to the airport
and flight, for our return to
It
was truly tropical here, very hot and sticky. Once again I find myself
wondering if it is the climate making me feel unwell. However I have
been in tropical climates before and realise that I have still not
shaken off a flu bug. After the evening meal I retire to bed hoping
that I shall be fit enough to take part in tomorrow’s birding.
April 5th (Serra do Tucanos- Boca do Mato- Sumidouro)
Serra
dos Tucanos offers superb accommodation and food. It is very isolated.
The owner Andy Foster is a young British birder who has set up the
lodge to offer individuals and groups birding holidays. He has a
variety of day trips on offer that can be purchased separately visiting
a variety of habitats using his new minibus. He is very enthusiastic
and has had the experience of working and birding in
Today we joined an American birder, Bob, and a fellow birder from
Eventually we pulled of the main road onto a track and the hunt began for the Three-toed Jacamar. Andy had seen it on a regular basis but it took the five of us a little time to locate it. Good views were had but it only sat in poor light making photography too difficult.
We returned to the lodge a bit late due to traffic jams in a local town, but the staff at the lodge had prepared a wonderful meal fitting for a wonderful day’s birding.
Our tally reached 219 species
Least Grebe
April 6th (Serra do Tucanos- Cedae Trail)
We
woke to a tropical downpour. We were due to bird a wetland but Andy
said that it would be impassable and decided to take umbrellas to one
of the near trails to the lodge. The rain was certainly very heavy as
only the tropics knew how!
We are determined not to let the rain spoil our enjoyment and are surprised by how many birds we saw given the conditions. Although wet, it was also warm and we felt over-dressed. The forest trail was very productive and gave us good views of many birds. As this was a half-day excursion, we returned to the lodge for lunch and Paul decided to sleep the afternoon away, whilst Bob, Rachel and I sheltered from the rain on the lodge terrace watching the birds coming into the feeder.
After the evening meal, during the log call in the lounge, I spotted a large black cat running along the terrace outside. Andy ran for a mammal field guide and I realise that I have just seen a Jaguarindi. It was no doubt what the guard dogs had been barking at moments earlier.

Plain Parakeet
April 7th (Serra dos Tucanos- Serra dos Oigaios)
We were out of the lodge by
However the birding to get to the trail was good. I saw one of the birds that I have missed in

Lunch stop at Serra dos Oigaios
April 8th (
This
is the first day that I had woken up feeling well. At last my ‘flu bug’
has abated. The weather had also brightened and it was a lovely sunny
day. Andy took us to the
Towards the end of the day I was trailing behind the others and spotted a raptor sat some distance at the top of a dead tree. We had long stopped looking at every Black Vulture but this one just looked odd. The others were some way in front, but I felt it was necessary to examine this raptor through a scope. I called the others back to look. Excitement grew but we were unsure of the identification. I managed to take a picture through Bob’s scope by hand holding my camera to it. Once back at the lodge we were still unsure as to the raptors identification. It was eventually identified as a juvenile Crowned Solitary Eagle an unusual record for the area.

Crowned Solitary Eagle
April 9th (Serra dos Tucanos-
We were up early for a few hours birding from the terrace before one of the staff at Serra dos Tucanos took us back to the airport. We said our goodbyes. My species list ends on 278 but as always Paul claimed a few more! It has been an enjoyable experience but just a shame that I spent most of it with a ‘flu bug’!

Green Honeycreeper
1) LEAST GREBE Tachybaptus dominicus
Sumidouro on the 5th
2) PIED-BILLED GREBE Podilymbus podiceps
10+ on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th with a single on the 29th.
3) BROWN BOOBY Sula leucogaster
20+ on the 26th and 10+ on the 28th, observed from the beach south of Marica.
4) NEOTROPIC CORMORANT Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Numerous and common where ever water was present.
5)ANHINGA Anhinga anhinga
6) MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD Fregata magnificens
Always present by the coast, there were 300 together over the
7) WHISTLING HERON Syrigma sibilatrix
4 present in the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th and 3 on the 29th.
8) LITTLE BLUE HERON Egretta caerulea
20+ on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th and 1 or 2 the following day.
9) SNOWY EGRET Egretta thula
Numerous and common in the coastal lagoons south of Marica.
10) CAPPED HERON Pilherodius pileatus
Serra dos Oigaos on the 7th
11) COCOI HERON Ardea cocoi
Observed in small numbers in the coastal lagoons south of Marica, a maximum of 3+ on the 26th.
12) GREAT WHITE EGRET Egretta alba
Numerous and common where ever water was present.
13) CATTLE EGRET Bubulcus ibis
100+ present in lowland fields with cattle north of Marica on the 29th. Small numbers were observed
from a moving car the following day.
14) STRIATED HERON Butorides striatus
10+ on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th and a single on Aracetiba Lagoon observed
from the birding lodge decking on the 30th.
15) BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON Nycticorax nycticorax
Observed in small numbers in the coastal lagoons south of Marica.
16) STRIPE-BACKED BITTERN Ixobrychus involucris
A single bird was flushed from reeds on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
17) LEAST BITTERN Ixobrychus exilis
A single bird was flushed from reeds on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 28th. In the
evening of the 28th another bird was observed on the marsh just south of the birding lodge.
18) PINNATED BITTERN Botarurus pinnatus
A single bird was flushed from reeds on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
19) ROSEATE SPOONBILL Ajaia ajaja
Good numbers on the coastal lagoons south of Marica with up to 50 on the 26th. There were 5
present on the salt pans at
20) WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK Dendrocygna vinduata
50+ present on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
21) BRAZILIAN TEAL Amazonetta brasiliensis
Observed on the marsh south of the birding lodge in very small numbers with a maximum of 4
on the 27th.
22) WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL Anas bahamensis
200+ on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
23) AMERICAN BLACK VULTURE Coragyps atratus
Numerous and common every where.
24) TURKEY VULTURE Cathartes aura
Marica on the 27th
25) LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE Cathartes burrovianus
3 around the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th with 1+ on the 28th. An excellent view of 2 perched in the restinga at
26) SNAIL KITE Rostrhamus sociabilis
27) SAVANNAH HAWK Buteogallus meridionalis
Singles observed in the lowland fields north of Marica on the 28th and 29th.
28) CROWNED SOLITARY EAGLE Harpyhaliaetus coronatus
Single juvenile photographed on the 8th
29) ROADSIDE HAWK Buteo magnirostris
Observed in small numbers every day around the coastal lagoons south of Marica and in the
lowland fields to the north.
30) SHORT-TAILED HAWK Buteo brachyurus
A single bird soared past Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Jeneiro on the 30th.
31) WHITE-TAILED HAWK Buteo albicaudatus
Boca do Mato on the 5th
32) BLACK HAWK-EAGLE Spizaetus tyrannus
Serra dos Tucanos on the 6th April
33) SOUTHERN (CRESTED) CARACARA Polyborus plancus
2 were present around the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th, with singles also there on
the 28th and 29th.
34) YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA Milvago chimachima
3+ were present around the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th, with 2+ also there on the
28th and 29th.
35) APLOMADO FALCON Falco femoralis
3 were hawking over lowland fields near the lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
36) RUFOUS-SIDED CRAKE Laterallus melanophaius
Observed on the marsh just south of the birding lodge, 1 on the 26th, 3 on the 27th and 1+ on the
28th. Excellent scope views were enjoyed in the early morning light.
37) GREY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL Aramides cajanea
4 were observed on a small beach at Aracetiba Lagoon from the decking at the birding lodge on the
30th. Also heard on the 26th.
38) SLATY-BREASTED WOOD-RAIL Aramides sacacura
Boca do Mato on the 5th
39) AMERICAN PURPLE GALLINULE Porphyrio martinicus
Sumidouro on the 5th
40) COMMON MOORHEN Gallinula chloropus
10+ were present in the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th with 3 on the 28th.
41) WHITE-WINGED COOT Fulica leucoptera
A single bird was present on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
42) LIMPKIN Aramus guarauna
Serra dos Oigaos on the 7th
43) RED-LEGGED SERIEMA Cariama cristata
Boca do Mato on the 5th
44) WATTLED JACANA Jacana jacana spinosa
50+ present on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th, recorded in fewer numbers on
subsequent days.
45) SEMIPALMATED PLOVER Charadrius semipalmatus hiaticula
50+ roosting in the dunes on the leeward side of the beach just south of the birding lodge on
the 26th.
46) COLLARED PLOVER Charadrius collaris
10+ afforded excellent views on the beach just south of the birding lodge on the 28th.
47) SOUTHERN LAPWING Vanellus chilensis
Common and vocal around the coastal lagoons south of Marica and in the lowland fields to the
north. Present near damp pasture or where water is present.
48) GREATER YELLOWLEGS Tringa melanoleuca
Good numbers present around the coastal lagoons south of Marica, maximum 30+ on the 26th.
49) LESSER YELLOWLEGS Tringa flavipes
Present in small numbers around the coastal lagoons south of Marica, maximum 10+ on 26th,
27th and 28th.
50) SPOTTED SANDPIPER Tringa macularia hypoleucos
3+ present on the marsh and the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th with fewer observed
on the 27th,28th and 29th.
51) RUDDY TURNSTONE Arenaria interpres
6+ in the dunes on the leeward side of the beach just south of the birding lodge on the 26th.
52) SANDERLING Calidris alba
500+ on the beach just south of the birding lodge on the 26th, also observed in smaller numbers
on subsequent days.
53) WHITE-RUMPED SANDPIPER Calidris fusciollis
10+ in the dunes on the leeward side of the beach just south of the birding lodge on the 26th.
54) KELP GULL Larus dominicanus
Present in small numbers around the coastal lagoons south of Marica, maximum 6+ on the 29th.
55) GREY-HEADED GULL Larus cirrocephalus
16 on a coastal lagoon east of Marica near
56) ROYAL TERN Sterna maxima
2 present on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th. 10+ were present on a coastal lagoon
east of Marica near
57) CAYENNE TERN/SANDWICH TERN Sterna sandvicensis
4 were present amongst Royal Tern on a coastal lagoon east of Marica near
58) BLACK SKIMMER Rynchops
200+ present on the coastal lagoons south of Marica on the 26th.
59) PICAZURO PIGEON Columba picazuro
Only observed in very small numbers around the coastal lagoons. Commoner in the lowlands with
20+ on Serera de Tiririca on the 29th .
60) PLUMBEOUS PIGEON Columba plumbea
61) EARED DOVE Zenaida auriculata
(Only seen in a short trip across the border to
62) PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND-DOVE Columbina minuta
Usually observed singular in the restinga south of Marica.
63) RUDDY GROUND DOVE Columbina talpacoti
Common but seldom more than 2 together. Observed in the restinga, coastal lagoons south of
Marica and in the lowlands to the north with 20+ on Espriado on the 28th and Serera de Tiririca on
the 29th.
64) WHITE-TIPPED DOVE Leptotila verreauxi
A single bird observed very well sat low in a bush in the restinga just south of the birding lodge on the 27th.
65) MAROON-BELLIED PARAKEET Pyrrhura frontalis
Serra dos Tucanos on the 6th
66) BLUE-WINGED PARROTLET Forpus xanthopterygius (passerinus)
67) PLAIN PARAKEET Brotogeris tirica
Serra dos Tucanos on the 6th
68) SCALY-HEADED PARROT Pionus maximiliani
Unfortunately all sightings were fly overs. There were 4 flying over the lowlands to the north of
Marica on the 27th and a singular sighting on the 29th.
69) ORANGE-WINGED PARROT Amazona amazonica
A roost site was visited in the lowlands to the north of Marica. The birds could not be observed in
the roost site only heard. Despite this at least 50 flew in on the 26th.
70) SQUIRREL CUCKOO Piaya cayana
A single bird in the lowland hills at Serera de Tiririca to the north of Marica on the 28th..
71) SMOOTH-BILLED ANI Rrotophaga ani
Numerous and common in the lowlands, usually sat out in the open.
72) GUIRA CUCKOO Guira guira
50+ on the 26th, usually in small groups of 6 or 7.
73) STRIPED CUCKOO Dromococcyx phasianellus
A single singing bird observed very well in the restinga on the 26th.
74) BURROWING OWL Athene cunicularia
Common in the lowlands usually sat on fence posts, singular or two together.
75) COMMON POTOO Nyctibius griseus
A single bird located at a traditional day roost site in someone’s garden on the 26th.
76) GREAT DUSKY SWIFT Cypseloides senex
Many birds seen at dusk near the waterfalls on the2nd
77) WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT Streptoprocne zonaris
100+ over the lowlands on the 29th.
78) BISCUTATE SWIFT Streptoprocne biscutata
79) ASHY-TAILED SWIFT Chaetura andrei
Small numbers observed most days.
80) SCALE-THROATED HERMIT Phaethornis eurynome
Serra dos Oigaos on the 7th
81) PLANALTO HERMIT Phaethornis pretrei
Boca do Mato on the 5th
82) REDDISH HERMIT Phaethornis ruber
4+ along the mountain jungle trail of Boqueirao on the 27th.
83) SAW-BILLED HERMIT Ramphodon naevius
A single bird coming to a flowering tree along the mountain jungle trail of Boqueirao on the 27th.
84) SWALLOW-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD Eupetomena macroura
Small numbers observed every day. Two or three present in the birding lodge garden regularly
coming to the feeders.
85) BLACK JACOBIN Melanotrochilus fuscusto
A single bird coming to a flowering tree along the mountain jungle trail of Boqueirao on the 27th.
86)PLOVERCREST (Stephanoxis lalandi)
A single bird seen briefly flitting over shrubs on
87) GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD Chlorostilbon aureoventris
A single bird near the coastal marsh just south of the birding lodge on the 27th.
88) FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH Thalurania furcata
A single bird on the mountain jungle trail of Boqueirao on the 27th.
89) VIOLET-CAPPED WOODNYMPH Thalurania glaucopis
6+ on the mountain jungle trail of Boqueirao on the 27th and 10+ along the lowland jungle on
Serera de Tiririca on the 29th.
90) WHITE-CHINNED SAPPHIRE Hylocharis cyanus
2+ along the jungle trail of Serera de Tiririca on the 29th.
91) WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT Polytmus guainumbi
Single birds in the lowland jungle trails of Espriado and Serera de Tiririca on the 28th and 29th.
92) GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALD Amazilia fimbriata
Single birds along the lowland jungle trails of Espriado and Serera de Tiririca on the 28th and 29th.
93) SAPPHIRE-SPANGLED EMERALD Amazilia lactea
Boca do Mato on the 5th
94) SOMBRE HUMMINGBIRD Aphantochroa cirrochloris
Frequent sightings at the jungle lodge at Serra dos Tucanos
95) BRAZILIAN RUBY Clytolaema rubricauda
Serra dos Oigaos on the 7th
96) BLACK-THROATED TROGON Trogon rufus
97) SURUCUA TROGON Trogon surrucura
98) RINGED KINGFISHER Ceryle torquata
Regular sightings on the coastal lagoons.
99) AMAZON KINGFISHER Chloroceryle amazona
A single bird on the coastal lagoons on the 26th.
100) GREEN KINGFISHER Chloroceryle
Small numbers observed on the coastal lagoons 26th-28th.
101) RUFOUS-CAPPED MOTMOT Baryphthengus ruficapillus
Serra dos Oigaos on the 7th
102) THREE-TOED JACAMAR Jacamaralcyon tridactyla
Sumidouro on 5th April
103) RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR Galbula ruficauda
2 birds were observed along the lowland jungle trail of Espriado on the 28th.
104) WHITE-EARED PUFFBIRD Nystalus chacura
2 birds were observed in the lowland country and a probable nest site located on the 28th.
105) CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI Pteroglossus castanotis
106) SPOT-BILLED TOUCANET Selenidera maculirostris
107) CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN Ramphastos vitellinus
Serra dos Oigaos on the 7th
108) RED-BREASTED TOUCAN Ramphastos dicolorus