Norfolk Birders

Norfolk Birdwatching and beyond!

Bolivia 2014

Trip Report to Bolivia


By Sue Bryan

 

November-December 2014

 

Sue Bryan and Paul Jeffery

Introduction

 

This was a birding holiday organised by Birding Ecotours www.birdingecotours.co.za as a customised trip to Bolivia for the two of us. We had both been to Northern Peru with Eduardo Ormaeche as our guide from Birding Ecotours in 2013 which we had enjoyed immensely and whilst there discussed the possibility of birding Bolivia knowing the problems of the heights involved. I had reservations about this as I struggle with altitude sickness rather badly. Eduardo assured me that with the right diet and taking a small bottle of oxygen with me, which he would supply, I would manage it. Paul also had a few other ideas and over the course of the year we emailed Eduardo with a shopping list of requested birds to see. Eduardo put together a wonderful tour which we partly pioneered to see the critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw which added to the fun and enjoyment at a cost of 2 x £4117.

 

Guide Eduardo Ormaeche     Driver (main tour) Herman Lijeron    Assistant Guide (Beni) Jose Balderrama

 

Itinerary

 

18th November   Heathrow - Madrid (Spain)

 

19th November   Madrid - Lima (Peru) ? Santa Cruz (Bolivia)

 

20th November   Santa Cruz ? Trinidad (Bolivia)

 

21st November Trinidad

 

22nd November Trinidad ? Santa Cruz

 

23rd November Santa Cruz ? Camiri

 

24th November Camiri ? Boyuibe ? Camiri

 

25th November Camiri ? Boyuibe ?Santa Cruz

 

26th November Santa Cruz ? Refugio los Volcanes

 

27th November Refugio los Volcanes

 

28th November Refugio los Volcanes ? Samaipata ? Comarapa

 

29th November  Comarapa -San Carlos ? Comarapa

 

30th November Comarapa ? Cochabamba

 

1st December Cochabamba and Tablas Montes

 

2nd December Cochabamba and Cerro Tunari

 

3rd December Cochabamba- La Paz

 

4th December La Paz and  Coroico (Death Road)

 

5th December La Paz and Lake Titicaca ? Lima - Madrid

 

6th December Madrid -Heathrow

 

 

Flights

 

International flights to Santa Cruz via Lima and Madrid, returning from La Paz via Santa Cruz, Lima and Madrid cost (2x £1019) return with www.ebookers.com booked independently with Lan Airlines.

 

Vehicle

 

Birding Ecotours sub-contracted Herman Lijeron to drive and prepare breakfasts and picnic lunches for us.

 

Money

 

We obtained a small amount of Bolivianos at the airport ATM. Since this was an all-inclusive trip we only spent money on some personal drinks and sweets. (Nearly all drinks were freely supplied throughout)

 

Climate

 

The weather was hot and sunny for all of our time in the lower altitudes but colder, with some rain on one day, at a higher elevation in the cloud forest. It was colder but sunny at higher elevations in the Andes.

 

 

Habitat

 

The beginning of the tour was spent in the Beni province in open scrub, secondary growth areas with some marshes around the town of Trinidad. After flying back to Santa Cruz we birded areas of dry open scrub and Chaco before continuing to cloud forest. At higher altitudes we encountered montane habitats rising to over 4000m high.

 

 

Daily Log

 

18th November

 

Paul and I left Heathrow on an early evening flight to fly to Madrid.

 

19th October

 

Just after midnight we flew from Madrid, Spain to Lima, Peru on an overnight flight. After a few hours wait we flew from Lima to Santa Cruz, Bolivia where Eduardo and Herman were waiting for us with a vehicle. After a quick change of clothing we were on our way to a nearby secondary forest habitat where we both life ticked Chopi Blackbird, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, White-wedged Piculet, Rufous Casiornis, Fawn-breasted Wren and White-bellied Nothura.


White-wedged Piculet                                                                                                                   Yellow-chevroned Parakeet

 

We were both a bit tired from our 24 hours of travel but it was so nice to be out in the sun and warmth birding and away from our hectic working lives back home in a cold grey November with Eduardo once again. Birds came thick and fast as we familiarised ourselves once again with South American birds. Campo Flicker, Burrowing Owl, American Kestrel, Blue Dacnis, Eastern Kingbird, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Turkey Vulture, Black Vulture, Roadside Hawk, Guira Cuckoo, Saffron Finch, Common Potoo are birds often found on S. American bird lists and we added these during the afternoon before making our way to a plush city hotel.

 

We also added Chestnut-fronted Macaw which was one of the first six species of macaw we were to see on the trip. It was good to see Plush-crested Jay, Rufous Casiornis, Blue-crowned Trogon, Blue-winged Parrolet, Crested Oropendola, Purplish Jay and White-rumped Swallow as well.


Chestnut-eared Aricari                                                                                                                       Chestnut-fronted Macaw

 

20th November

Getting up early we birded the nearby grasslands of the airport in the hope of finding Red-winged Tinamou which we duly did. I enjoyed views of Aplomado Falcon, one of my favourite falcons as we added more familiar South American birds to our trip list. Sayaca Tanager, Plumbeous Kite, Picui Ground Dove Tropical Kingbird, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Whistling Heron, Cattle Tyrant, Bay-winged Cowbird, Grey-breasted Martin, Great Pampa Finch, Grassland Sparrow were added before we had good views of Orange-backed Troupial and Brazilian Teal.


 

Aplomado Falcon

 

Herman drove us to the airport where we boarded a flight to Trinidad towards the north of Bolivia. Here we were greeted by Jose, a university lecturer who was to be our assistant guide in the area as we had gained special permission to enter private land in search of the critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw, which is sadly down to last 87 birds left in the wild.

 

The rest of the day was spent birding a road down to a military base and settlement which had good scrubby habitat and secondary forest at Loma Suarez. Here we stopped at various points by marshy areas adding Limpkin, Wattled Jacana, Striated Heron, Black-backed Water Tyrant, Cocoi heron, Great Egret, White-faced Whistling Duck, Yellow-billed Tern, Neotropic Cormorant, Ringed Kingfisher, Plumbeous Ibis, Grey-necked Woodrail, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Muscovy Duck and Southern Screamer.

 

Loma Suarez village near Trinidad                                                                                                                                     Plumbeous Ibis


We spied the first of many Rufous Hornero that we were to see, as well as Grey-crested Cachalote, Plain Softtail, Red-crested Cardinal, Black-collared Hawk, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Black-capped Donacobius, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Black-throated Mango, Speckled Chacalaca, Black-bellied Thrush, Mato Grosso Antbird, Yellow-headed Caracara, Lesser Kiskadee and wonderful Blue and Yellow Macaw.


 Blue and Yellow Macaw                                                                           Black-collared Hawk                                                                          Black-capped Donacobius

 

Unfortunately I had developed a migraine as I often do after flights, and so once back at the hotel I missed the evening meal taken out in town. No doubt the boys had a good evening without me discussing rock bands!!!!!


21st November


Jose                                                                                     This plane didn?t quite make the runway at Trinidad

 Hacienda at Loreto                                                                                                                                   Blue-throated Macaw

 

Eduardo and Jose picked Paul and I up at 5am and together we travelled along a good track-way for an hour and a half to Loreto. This was the pioneering part of the tour to see the endemic critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw. Eduardo had to gain special permission to gain access to the privately owned land. At the village we picked up our contact man who accompanied us along a bumpy track to a private hacienda. We were a bit concerned at the electric wires draped across the track but were assured they were switched off as we hooked them over the vehicle to get through the gate!

 

Along the track we were treated to Crane Hawk, Grey Monjita, Savanna Hawk, Hoatzin, Jabiru and Wood Stork. Once we arrived at the hacienda we waited by the vehicle for Eduardo to make the necessary arrangements and we were treated to views of Blue-fronted Parrot, Olivaceous Woodcreeper and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper. We were very excited at the privilege to which we were being treated as there are less than 86 Blue-throated Macaw left in the wild and most of the population is difficult to see. All of a sudden Jose said that he could hear the Blue-throated Macaw approaching and we scanned the tree-line in the distance. All of a sudden we had a pair of Blue-throated Macaw fly right over our head and out of sight. We thought that this was the only view we would have but after crossing a wet area and into a nearby forest we were treated to another pair sitting on a nest box erected by a small NGO group in an attempt to encourage breeding. Sadly Blue-throated Macaw are often evicted from nest holes by the more aggressive Blue and Yellow Macaw.



Jabiru

 

Golden-collared Macaw

 

  

In the forest we were treated to views of Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher and Golden-collared Macaw. Mosquitoes were beginning to nibble at us and we beat a hasty retreat and birded the more open track-way where we watched Brown-crested Flycatcher, Hooded Tanager, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Bare-faced Ibis, Lineated Woodcreeper and Lineated Woodpecker.



Crowned Slaty Flycatcher                                                                                                                                      Bare-faced Ibis

 

We left the hacienda and dropped off our contact man in Loreto and stopped to add birds to our ever-growing list. Another track by the side of a development produced Epaulet Oriole, Red-capped Cardinal, Yellow-rumped Casique and White-tailed Goldenthroat. We continued along our route back towards the hotel and stopped to take photos of a Barred Antshrike. We also saw Rusty-collared Seedeater, Nacunda Nighthawk, Great Black-Hawk and a Rufous-tailed Jacamar.


 


Great Black-Hawk


We arrived back at our hotel in Trinidad for lunch before driving out of town to find more birds. We added Dusky-headed Parakeet and Amazon Kingfisher before Eduardo asked Herman to stop the vehicle. He had heard an Undulated Tinamou in the roadside vegetation. The next half an hour was spent peering into thick vegetation as we realised that the bird was very close. Eduardo and Paul moved a bit further along the roadside just before I was treated to a full view of an Undulated Tinamou in full view through the smallest of gaps in the vegetation. No matter how hard we tried it did not re-show for Paul.


Roseate Spoonbill, Social Flycather, Purple Euphonia and Cobalt-winged Parakeet were all added to the list before we headed back to another hotel for the night.


22nd November

 

During the night I had been kept awake by a Striped Owl calling and spent some time standing by the window of my room. Eventually I saw the bird fly from a nearby tree before going back to bed. As we had a flight to catch today we made the most of some early morning birding around the town marshes of Trinidad. Purple Gallinule and Gilded Hummingbird were added to the list as we made our way down to a lake edge where Paul spotted some Black Skimmer in his scope. We watched a Greater Thornbird add some nest material to its nest in company with a Grey-crested Cacholote and added Solitary Cacique, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail and Large-billed Tern before going to the airport.


Peach-fronted Parakeet                                                                                                                             Gilded Hummingbird


Greater Thornbird                                                                                                                                     Grey-crested Cacholote

 

Once at the airport we duly checked in as normal but wondered why there did not seem many for our flight. We soon found ourselves boarding a small 19-seater plane. We didn?t mind but our huge camera bags on our laps, was a bit cramped given how hot the flight was! We were thankful that the bottle of water we had been given was ice cold. It all adds to the adventure and we smiled. It was certainly better than a long road trip back to Santa Cruz.

 

 





Paul hauls down his huge camera bag from the flight from Trinidad to Santa Cruz with Eduardo in hot pursuit (literally!)


Once back in Santa Cruz we unloaded at the hotel and after a break birded the Santa Cruz Botanical Gardens. On the lake we added Least Grebe and around it Amazonian Motmot, Thrush-like Wren, Squirrel Cuckoo, Black-fronted Nunbird and Green-cheeked Parakeet.


We followed the track into what seemed like excellent habitat to find it totally devoid of birds. We were all surprised at how little we saw for our efforts. As darkness fell we watched White-fronted Capuchin Monkey as well as Black-crowned Night Heron, Green Ibis and Snail Kite all coming into roost.



23rd November

 

Today was going to be a long day as we had a lot of driving to do to reach Camiri. Just before we had left the UK my back had given way again and I was in a lot of pain. However we stopped along the way for breakfast and lunch and this gave me an opportunity to get my back mobile again.


Eduardo, Paul and Herman stopping for breakfast                                                                                                                 Somewhere near Monteagudo

 

Birding is not always done in ideal conditions and along the route we encountered some rain. This made viewing and taking photographs difficult. I felt sorry for the Scaly-headed Parrots and the Glittering-bellied Hummingbird sat on its nest in the pouring rain. Herman was also tested trying to prepare our food in it too!

 

Stopping at a roadside pool we watched Black-necked Stilt, Snowy Egret and Ringed Teal. Near Abapo we added Short-tailed Swift, Scaly-headed Parrot, Comb Duck, Red-crested Finch, Military Macaw (sadly not photographable) Yellow-crowned Parrot and a Laughing Falcon begging for his photo to be taken. A Creamy ?bellied Thrush looked worse for wear as we added House Wren and Black-capped Warbling Finch to our list. A Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant gave us a hard time as we searched for it deep inside a bush. I was pleased with the Ultramarine Grosbeak and Striped-backed Antbird as they were ticks!


Scaly-headed Parrot                                                                                                                               Glittering-bellied Hummingbird


Laughing Falcon                                                                                                                                                Toco Toucan


Eduardo, Paul and I made the most of our food stops and we soon spotted more birds for our list. We had a distant King Vulture soaring above the mountains and a White Monjita sat on a wire. The ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow jumped on our list as well as Masked Yellowthroat, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, Red-eyed Vireo, White-crested Elaenia and Golden-billed Saltator. These were familiar birds to us but we were pleased to see them again but adding a lifer is always a thrill as Bolivian Slaty Antshrike and Ochre-cheeked Spinetail were life ticks as they jumped on our lists. We added Greater Wagtail Tyrant, Picazuro Pigeon and Chaco Chacalaca before arriving at the JR Hotel (I kid you not!) at Camiri.

 

I can recommend the JR Hotel for its delicious Passion-fruit Mousse. Not to be missed!

 

 

24th November

 

The reason for our visit to Camiri was that this was the nearest accommodation to the habitat around Boyuibe where we had wanted to try and find the Black-legged Seriema. We have seen the red-legged version but the Black-legged Seriema is more difficult to see as it is more arboreal lurking amongst vegetation rather than out on open fields.

 

Up at 4am we drove to Boyuibe and had difficulty finding the right track that would lead us onto the track towards Paraguay. The day was hot as we added Lark-like Bushrunner, Many-coloured Chacofinch, Black-backed Grosbeak, Cinereous Tyrant, Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Hooded Siskin and Blue-crowned Parakeet.


Eduardo, Herman (cooking breakfast) and Paul                                                                                                                                                                                    Paul


The village with no houses between the signs. If you look carefully you just may see the other sign at the other end of Mandeyapacua.

                                                          Cinereous Tyrant


  

After a cooked breakfast we continued on the track towards Paraguay and watched a White-tailed Hawk overhead and found Southern Beardless Tyrannulet and White-fronted Woodpecker. We heard Black-legged Seriema but did not see it. After 30 km down the track we came to a junction and explored in amongst the vegetation and found a Crested Hornero and Little Thornbird, both of which were ticks for Paul and I.

 

Eduardo decided that we had better turn around and listen as we retraced our route back towards the main track. Just as were nearing Boyuibe, Eduardo heard a seriema calling. The bird had to be close as we tumbled out of the vehicle. We knew it was nearby and could not get far as there a was a sheer cliff-drop just behind the bird. No matter how hard we tried the bird evaporated into thin air! Grrrr?

 

We added Tropical Parula, White-bellied Tyrannulet and Chaco Suiri Flycatcher for our troubles as we were looking. I seemed to have developed a cold which annoyed me as I was still struggling with my back. As we returned to the hotel I reluctantly gave up the pillow I had borrowed, but Herman went out into town and found me a marvellous hard foam cushion which did the trick for the rest of the journey. I was now much more comfortable travelling. Thanks Herman!


Crested Hornero                                                                                                                                   White-fronted Woodpecker

 







South American Grey Fox

25th November

 

We had to drive back to Santa Cruz today but Eduardo does not give up easily and luckily for us decided to give the track at Boyuibe another go. We got up at 4am and were soon on our way to the track. Once again we heard the seriema calling and searched the area in vain. It was so frustrating as we had a deadline time by which we had to leave to continue our trip. We had all but given up hope when suddenly Herman spotted a Black-legged Seriema standing right by the roadside. We stared in amazement but were far too slow with our cameras as it hot-footed it back into the vegetation. The long drive back to Camiri was full of happy bunnies! We returned to the JR hotel where we had lunch and Herman re-fuelled the vehicle. Soon we left for the long hot drive back to Santa Cruz. We added White-browed Blackbird, Cattle Egret along the way and Chaco Puffbird as we neared Santa Cruz.










White-browed Blackbird

26th November

 

Not everything goes to plan on our birding adventures and it makes life interesting! Today was one of those days. We left at 5.30am and started along the old Cochabamba road. We entered the Bermejo Canyon and came across a queue preventing us from continuing any further. I decided to walk along the line of vehicles to see what the hold-up was. As I rounded a corner I was just in time to see several massive lumps of rocks descending from the mountainside completely blocking the road.


 Bermejo Canyon                                                                           Landslide blocks the road                                                                         People dogging rocks

 
The workforce arrives!

 

After a few hours wait, a workforce of men and a lone digger made a route through the rock fall. It was with some trepidation that Herman drove through it!

A single-file of vehicles making their way through the rock fall.

 

Once we had arrived at the bottom of the steep track to Refugio los Volcanes we bid goodbye to Herman and got into the 4x4 jeep that was to take us up to the ecolodge. It was a bumpy ride as we climbed and then descended again. About a kilometre before the lodge we got out and birded our way down.

 

We added Palm Tanager, Dusky-green Oropendola, Guira Tanager, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Moustached Wren, a pair of  Bolivian Tapaculo, Black-goggled Tanager, Swainson?s Thrush, and White-backed Fire-eye as we walked down before adding White-tipped Swift Giant Cowbird, Mitred Parakeet from the open area around the lodge.


Eduardo and Paul negotiating one of the streams along one of the birding trails


After a short rest we joined forces with other visitors from the lodge and were taken by the owner of the lodge along one of the trails where we were shown the nest site of the Blue-banded Toucanet. The adult flew as we walked along the trail. It was almost dark as I spotted a Grey-throated Leaftosser sitting at eye-level. Luckily we all had good views.

27th November

 

We were up early and started walking back up the track. We had a good start with good views of a Short-tailed Antthrush. We were hopeful of a good day ahead as the habitat seemed wonderful.  The track was steep and I was very grateful that the jeep arrived and took us up to the gate so that we could walk back down. We added Long-tailed Hermit, Plumbeous Pigeon, Black-banded Woodcreeper and had lovely views of Saffron-billed Sparrow which Paul had spotted lurking in the leaf-litter. However it was hard going and considering all our efforts we were seeing very little and added no more to our list by the time we arrived back at the lodge.


Sue Eduardo and Paul arriving back at Refugio los Volcanes

 

Whilst I busied myself with some domestic chores and notes Paul and Eduardo went back up the track but saw very little.

 

Sue


I was keen to do some active birding and soon settled well into my hammock! I added Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Andean Condor, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Sparkling Violetear from my perch but also enjoyed views of Blue-crowned Trogon. It was all too much for the boys and I was soon hauled off back up the track in the jeep. We were quite amazed at how little we saw that afternoon, failing on a couple of target species. Can?t win them all!


As darkness fell Eduardo played the call of Rufescent Screech-Owl which we duly saw in the trees at the edge of the clearing. I cursed as I had left my camera back in the room.










Blue-crowned Trogon

28th November

Refugio los Volcanes                                                                                                                                   Black-backed Grosbeak

 

After a 5am breakfast we left Refugio los Volcanes and took the little jeep back up the bumpy track to the gate where Herman and our main vehicle was waiting for us. We saw Large-tailed Dove on the route to the gate. Herman drove us back down to the main road but not before I saw a Ruddy Quail Dove on the side of the track. We drove to Samaipata and stopped at several spots to see if we could find Giant Antshrike, a world tick for me. We failed miserably! We added Variable Antshrike, Ringed Warbling Finch and White-tipped Plantcutter.

 

Herman took a side road that lead near to the spot where Che Guevara was eventually found and killed where we searched by chicken farms for Grey-crested Finch. It was now very hot. Eared Dove, Chaco (Spot-backed) Puffbird and Blue and Yellow Tanager were added to the list before we carried on with our journey. All of a sudden Eduardo shouted and there at the top of a cactus was a Grey-crested Finch.


Grey-crested Finch


Chaco (Spot-backed) Puffbird

 

 

Another stop produced Rufous-capped Antshrike and a Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet gave us a very hard time.   We arrived at Comarapa but drove further on up an extremely dusty, wind-swept road where despite our best efforts we failed to find our crescentchest. We heard it but it was too far up an extremely steep slope and the wind and dust was all too much for us. We did add Brown (Rusty)-capped Whitestart to our list though. A bit disappointed we drove back to town to check into our hotel for the night. Here we added Blue and White Swallow, Southern Martin and Grey-hooded Parakeet.


29th November

Paul, Sue and Eduardo at San Carlos                                                                                                                                                                  San Carlos

San Carlos Reserve sign                                                                                                                            Red-fronted Macaw


Today was going to be another special day, especially for Eduardo as it was his birthday, as we were destined for the San Carlos Reserve where there is a roost cliff where the critically endangered Red-fronted Macaw may be seen before it leaves for the day?s feeding activities. Red-fronted Macaw is down to the last 130 birds left in the wild. They suffer from persecution from farmers who shoot them raiding food crops and from the usual pressures of the despicable parrot trade.


We set off along the rough track at 4am flushing several Scissor-tailed Nightjar on the track. Soon after first light we arrived at the cliffs and Eduardo set up a scope and we all shared his delight at finding a pair of Red-fronted Macaw preening on the cliff edge. I certainly had my work cut out trying to get a decent photo. We were overjoyed at seeing them and realized what a huge privilege it was. We also had a few Cliff (Monk) Parakeet sat on the cliff edge too.


Cliff Flycatcher

 

After breakfast we made our way slowly back along the route we had come adding Bolivian Blackbird, White-bellied Hummingbird and Cliff Flycatcher to our trip list.

 

Further along the road the next frustration with thick vegetation occurred. This time it was me that had the frustration as a Giant Antshrike called deep from within a bush. This is a bird that has eluded me many times in South America no matter how hard I have tried. Eduardo and Paul had had several glimpses of the bird and did their best to try and help me. Each time I missed it. Nearly in tears with frustration at my own incompetence, somehow the bird had crossed the track without any of us seeing it. This time the vegetation was not as thick and after several attempts I laid eyes on a Giant Antshrike. I can?t believe how long it has taken me to add this one to my world list! Thanks Eduardo and Paul!

 

Another stop along the road and it was Paul who suffered the frustration with disappearing birds. We had seen a Bolivian Earthcreeper but it was to be quite a while before Paul could add it to his list as we all did our best to help him see it. We added Spot-breasted Thornbird, too. It was an extremely hot day and we returned to the hotel for a short break before we went in search of the crescentchest once more. It was not to be as the winds defeated us. However we added Azara?s Spinetail and Small-billed Elaenia before the day was out.

30th November


Bolivian Brush-finch                                                                                                                                         Tyrian Metaltail

Sue and Paul                                                                                                                                            San Benito

 

We left Comarapa at 5am to begin our long journey on the old road to Cochabamba. The old road is more of a track really. We were now going to begin the high altitude birding in the Andes. First we climbed up to Siberia into cloud forest where it was wet and cold. Bolivian Brushfinch, Light-crowned Spinetail, Buff-banded Tyrannulet and Trilling Tapaculo were all world ticks but we also added White-throated Tyrannulet, Masked Flowerpiercer, Tyrian Metaltail, Pearled Treerunner, Andean Tyrant, Common Bush Tanager, Cinnamon Flycatcher and Glossy Black Thrush. The altitude was beginning to tell on me and I took some medication which together made me doze off in the vehicle. Luckily by the time we reached our lunch stop I felt a bit better.

 

At the lunch stop we added Sierran Elaenia, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, Pale-legged Warbler and I saw a Pale-footed Swallow fly over. In the vegetation we watched Fulvous-headed Brushfinch, White-browed Brushfinch and also saw Andean Swift. As we neared Epizana we saw our first Andean Gull from the vehicle and added Rufous-bellied Bush Tyrant at another stop. Puna Ibis was on a small lake and we saw a Mountain Caracara from the vehicle.


Garages Bolivian Style!

 

  

 

Herman filling up with fuel?note where the fuel pipe is!

 

 

 

We often have amusing incidents on our travels and today we had another one. We were running short of fuel and garages in high altitude mountain routes are often few and far between. We stopped at the only available garage and tried to fill up with fuel. Unfortunately we met up with a ?jobs worth? petrol attendant and he had a ?system?. This involved queuing several times and filling up from the other side of the vehicle from where the tank-filler hole was. Unfortunately the pipe would not reach and had to be passed through the vehicle! Hey ho!

 

Near Sacambambilla we enjoyed views of Chiguanco Thrush and Brown-backed Mockingbird

 

The scenery had been stunning for most of the day and we had been at 3600m high. I was pleased that I had not suffered too much from altitude sickness and had actually felt fine for most of the day considering the heights we had travelled at. Now at Cochabamba we watched White-collared Swift over the city. We found our hotel and checked in and enjoyed an evening meal together.


1st December

Leaving at 5am we drove up to Tablas Monte, where we walked a track-way in cloud forest. It was chilly and the weather did not look promising. We were hopeful of many lifers today as the habitat looked good and it seemed quite birdy as we ate our breakfast. We saw Citrine Warbler, Black-throated Thistletail, Crowned Chat Tyrant, Superciliaried Hemispingus, and Violet-throated Starfrontlet. It started to rain lightly and we set off walking down the track adding White-throated Quail Dove, Mountain Cacique, White-collared Jay, Hooded Mountain Tanager and Mountain Wren.








Unfortunately even with umbrellas we were now getting very wet and we decided to sit it out in the vehicle for a while. However after a while it was obviously not going to get any better and Eduardo decided to see if we could drive back up the mountain at another elevation to see if the weather was any better. It wasn?t and after sitting in the vehicle for lunch we drove back to Cochabamba and birded the lake.


Herman making the most of the downpour to clean his vehicle!






We added birds to our trip list that included Rosy-billed Pochard, Cinnamon Teal, White-tufted Grebe, Andean Duck, Andean Coot, Spotted Sandpiper, Puna Teal and White-cheeked Pintail. Unfortunately all the ducks were too far away for photographs.


White-tufted Grebe


2nd December


I was looking forward to today as I love remote high altitude birding but I was concerned whether my body would be able to tolerate the altitude. Jose had re-joined us as he knew the area and it was good to have him along. It was a beautiful day as we started the climb up the mountain at Cerro Tunari. The first bird we saw was our ?let?s play hard to get? Olive-crowned Crescentchest. Don?t hold your breath for the picture as it did not want its photo taken!


Olive-crowned Crescentchest                                                                                                                                           Andean Condor


A small truck then passed us with a blanket-covered crate in the back. The people driving knew Jose and stopped to chat to him. Imagine our surprise when they lifted the blanket off the crate to reveal an Andean Condor inside. It was a juvenile bird that had gorged itself too much and was unable to take off. It had been rescued and after some TLC was going to be released back into the wild.





Paul, Eduardo and Jose


I was finding the walking uphill difficult in the thin air but very much enjoying the birding and scenery. We soon added Maquis Canastero, Greenish Yellowfinch, Creamy-breasted Canastero before I spotted some small parrots feeding which turned out to be Andean Parakeet on closer inspection. Three life ticks in little over an hour wasn?t bad going for us! We watchedCinereous Conebill and soon had two more life ticks in the shape of Rufous-bellied Saltator and Bolivian Warbling Finch.

Andean Parakeet                                                                                                                                          Eduardo and Sue


Looking down into the river valley we addedBrown-capped Tit Spinetail, Giant Hummingbird, Red-tailed Comet and Tutfted Tit Tyrant. Rock Earthcreeper was a bit tricky but added itself to our life list as did Cochabamba Mountain Finch. Overhead we watched a gracefulVariable Hawk. They are so beautiful against a sun-lit blue sky. Andean Condor flew overhead as we added White-winged Cinclodes, Tawny Tit Spinetail and then we spotted a White-capped Dipper that soon flew down the river. I was delighted with views of a Puna Tapaculo whilstAndean Swallow flew overhead.


We drove a bit higher up the road and pulled into a small grass track way that was a good spot for a break. A Cream-winged Cinclodes and a Black-winged Ground Dove were on the grassy track along with a Guinea Pig. A small group of Plain-coloured Seedeater fed on the ground as D?Orbigny?s Chat Tyrant, Red-crested Cotinga, Rufous-sided Warbling Finch and Black-hooded Sierra Finch were located in the trees at the side of the track.


Cream-winged Cinclodes                                                                   Black-winged Ground Dove                                                                                       Guinea Pig

 

After some lunch and a very short snooze in the sun we drove up to over 4000 metres high. The scenery was amazing with Llamas grazing the short grass available. We enjoyed views of Cordilleran Canastero.

 

Considering the height and the thinness of air I have never been able to enjoy such a height before without being ill. We had to move very slowly though.




Cerro Tunari


Eventually we drove back down the mountain and back to a smelly marshy area at the back of the airport at Cochabamba. Here we added Wren-like Rushbird, Many-coloured Rush Tyrant, Andean Lapwing, Plumbeous Rail, Collared Plover, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Greater Yellowlegs, Yellow-billed Pintail and Pectoral Sandpiper.

3rd December





Leaving at 5am we left Cochabamba and started our accent towards La Paz. We took a detour to the chaotic city of Oruro but not before we had climbed up and over a pass of 4500 metres high. I enjoyed the scenery as we travelled. Once in Orurowe were met with chaotic road conditions and many road-works. It seemed a very sensible option of hiring a local taxi to lead and navigate our way through to the lake as road signage was non-existent!


The alto plano scenery en-route to La Paz near Parotani

 

Chilean Flamingo                                                                                        Cinnamon Teal                                                                                                 Puna Plover

                                 Andean Avocet


Once we had arrived at the lake we were saddened that this wonderful habitat was full of litter and being filled in to make way for development. This is happening all over the world and is very sad that we do not value such wonderful places. We admired Bright-rumped Yellow Finch as a life tick and added Andean Avocet, Crested Duck, Puna Plover, Chilean Flamingo, Baird?s Sandpiper, Wilson?s Phalarope and Andean Goose as trip ticks.





La Paz


Luckily Herman managed to find his way back out of the city and we settled down to the long drive toLa Paz. On the way we noted Andean Flicker andBlack Siskin at one of our stops. Once we arrived at La Paz I felt sorry for Herman who had to negotiate the traffic which was very congested in the narrow streets.


We endured a slow service at the evening meal but I did enjoy it!

4th December


We were ready to leave at 5am but there was no vehicle. Herman had been to fetch it but the hotel car park man had insisted on driving it out of the underground car park. Unfortunately he had lost control of the vehicle, rammed it into the entrance gate, twisting it and now it was stuck and would not open! After a delay the vehicle was extracted and we felt sorry for Herman and his damaged vehicle.


Today we were heading for high altitude and the famed Bolivian Death Road! The most notorious, dangerous road in the world and we were going on it! We climbed up to La Cumbre 4676 metres high. Eduardo had supplied me with a small oxygen bottle for me to use and boy did I need it! The air was very thin.

Paul looking not so happy and Sue with her oxygen bottle                                                                                                                               La Cumbre


We stopped to admire a Puna Canastero before continuing onto the start of Death Road. Herman stopped near the beginning of Death Road to prepare breakfast whilst we added a few trip ticks in the shape of Collared Inca, Rufous-breasted Chat Tyrant and Band-tailed Seedeater. Eduardo and Paul saw Diademed Tapaculo, which would have been a lifer for me but it didn?t want me to see it. We eventually gave up and went back for breakfast. I was disappointed?grrrrr?.


Death Road                                                                                                                                                                       Eduardo and Sue on Death Road


Now we started the drive down Death Road and I wish I could show you a video clip that I took. Every few metres there was a memorial cross to someone who had lost their lives over the edge. We walked carefully as we birded. We added Blue-capped Tanager, Barred Fruiteater, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager followed by excellent views of a White-rumped Hawk as it made a swoop into the vegetation to catch something before perching for us to watch it. I had not carried my camera today as I was concerned about the altitude and did not want to carry any extra weight around. This was a shame as we had some excellent views of birds especially the amazing sight of a Band-tailed Fruiteater feeding young. We had brief views of Bar-bellied Woodpecker before re-boarding the vehicle and having lunch at a picnic spot.


Paul Eduardo and Sue

Eduardo and Paul celebrating with a Pacena Negra (Beer) the fact that we were Death Road survivors!




We stopped again at the start point and addedBlue-black Conebill. I was not going to let poor Eduardo off the hook that easily though and we walked back down to the tapaculo spot and I am pleased to say that Diademed Tapaculo is now firmly on my world list! Thanks Eduardo!


Eduardo and Herman


By now the mist and fog had descended and thanks must go to our amazing driver Herman who had kept us all safe on this notorious road.


We drove back up to La Cumbre where we admired White-winged Diuca Finch and Andean Gull. It took us some searching before we locatedScribble-tailed Canastero though.





Andean Gull                                                                                                                                          White-winged Diuca Finch







The lake at Los Yungas


At 4676 metres high in the Andes the thinness of air was noticeable and I had to walk slowly to the edge of the lake where Eduardo had located aGiant Coot. The light was stunning as we admired the scenery. We were certainly lucky to be here. All too soon we returned to the madness of La Paz. I was so grateful that I had been able to enjoy the day with the help of my little oxygen bottle!







5th December

Sue and Paul at Lake Titicaca                                                                                                                        Paul andEduardo Lake Titicaca


Leaving La Paz at 4.30 am we drove to Lake Titicaca which was shrouded in fog. However this soon cleared and we watched a few Short-winged (Titicaca Flightless) Grebe out on the lake. Down by the lake edge I took a photo of a Puna Tealbefore finding a hotel for breakfast.


Andean Coot and Short-winged Grebe                                                                                                                                                                  Puna Teal

Rufous-collared Sparrow                                                                                                                                                                           Cinereous Harrier


After breakfast we wandered down to the lake edge again and took a few photos of ourselves before admiring a hunting Cinereous Harrier. Spot-winged Pigeon also jumped on our list as we addedPeruvian Sierra Finch too. A Rufous-collared Sparrow begged to have its photo taken.


The Andes at Lake Titicaca                                                                                                                                    Chilean Flamingo


We knew our time was nearly up but stopped once more to admire the scenery and walk to a marshy area where I loved the flight views we had of Puna Ibisand Chilean Flamingo. Soon we were back in the vehicle and Herman drove us back to the airport at La Paz. We said goodbye to Herman and Eduardo and thanked them for a wonderful trip. We have no hesitation in recommending Eduardo as a guide and hope to meet up again one day.


We flew back to Santa Cruz, changed planes and flew to Lima in


6th December

 

We arrived in Madrid in the afternoon and then boarded our plane to Heathrow.

 

Arriving quite late in the day we stopped at Crowne Plaza airport hotel where we had left our car for the duration of the holiday and spent the night here. This was only just marginally more expensive than a Heathrow park-only car park.

 

7th December

 

Drove home from Heathrow. 

 

Species List

 

Birds

 

Undulated Tinamou       Crypturellus undulatus   21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Red-winged Tinamou    Rhynchotus rufescens    20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

White-bellied Nothura  Nothura boraquira        19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Greater Rhea    Rhea americana            19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

White-tufted Grebe       Rollandia rolland           01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Short-winged Grebe     Rollandia microptera     05/12/2014      Lake Titicaca   

Least Grebe     Tachybaptus dominicus 22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Neotropic Cormorant   Phalacrocorax brasilianus          20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Whistling Heron            Syrigma sibilatrix           20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Snowy Egret     Egretta thula     23/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Cocoi Heron    Ardea cocoi     20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Great White Egret         Egretta alba      20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Cattle Egret      Bubulcus ibis    25/11/2014      Camiri 

Striated Heron  Butorides striatus [striatus]        20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Black-crowned Night-heron     Nycticorax nycticorax   22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Rufescent Tiger-heron   Tigrisoma lineatum        20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Wood Stork     Mycteria americana      21/11/2014      Loreto 

Jabiru   Jabiru mycteria 21/11/2014      Loreto 

Whispering Ibis Phimosus infuscatus      20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Puna Ibis          Plegadis ridgwayi          30/11/2014      Epizana           

Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens            20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Buff-necked Ibis           Theristicus caudatus      23/11/2014      Abapo 

Green Ibis        Mesembrinibis cayennensis       22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Roseate Spoonbill         Ajaia ajaja        21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Chilean Flamingo          Phoenicopterus chilensis [ruber]            03/12/2014      Oruro  

Southern Screamer       Chauna torquata           20/11/2014      Trinidad           

White-faced Whistling-duck      Dendrocygna viduata    20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Andean Duck   Oxyura ferruginea         01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera           03/12/2014      Oruro  

Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata          20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Comb Duck     Sarkidiornis melanotos  23/11/2014      Abapo 

Ringed Teal      Callonetta leucophrys    23/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Brazilian Teal    Amazonetta brasiliensis 20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Speckled Teal  Anas flavirostris            02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Crested Duck   Anas specularioides      03/12/2014      Oruro  

Yellow-billed Pintail      Anas georgica   02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

White-cheeked Pintail   Anas bahamensis          01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Puna Teal         Anas puna [versicolor]  01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera           01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Rosy-billed Pochard     Netta peposaca            01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

American Black Vulture            Coragyps atratus          19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura  19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus 20/11/2014         Trinidad           

Andean Condor            Vultur gryphus  27/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

King Vulture     Sarcoramphus papa      23/11/2014      Abapo 

Snail Kite         Rostrhamus sociabilis    22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Plumbeous Kite            Ictinia plumbea 20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Cinereous Harrier         Circus cinereus 05/12/2014      Lake Titicaca   

Crane Hawk     Geranospiza caerulescens         21/11/2014      Loreto 

Great Black-hawk        Buteogallus urubitinga   21/11/2014      Loreto 

Savannah Hawk           Buteogallus meridionalis            21/11/2014      Loreto 

Black-collared Hawk    Busarellus nigricollis      20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Black-chested Buzzard-eagle    Geranoaetus melanoleucus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes   

Roadside Hawk            Buteo magnirostris        19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

White-rumped Hawk    Buteo leucorrhous         04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

White-tailed Hawk       Buteo albicaudatus        24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Variable Hawk Geranoaetus polyosoma            02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Mountain Caracara       Phalcoboenus megalopterus      30/11/2014      Epizana           

Southern Crested Caracara       Caracara plancus          19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Yellow-headed Caracara          Milvago chimachima     20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Laughing Falcon           Herpetotheres cachinnans         23/11/2014      Abapo 

American Kestrel          Falco sparverius           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Aplomado Falcon         Falco femoralis 20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Chaco Chachalaca        Ortalis canicollis            23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Speckled Chachalaca   Ortalis guttata [motmot]            20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Grey-necked Wood-rail           Aramides cajanea         20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus          02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

American Purple Gallinule         Porphyrio martinicus     22/11/2014      Trinidad

Common Gallinule Gallinule galeata 01/12/2014 Cochabamba           

Slate-coloured Coot     Fulica ardesiaca            01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Giant Coot       Fulica gigantea  04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Limpkin            Aramus guarauna          20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Black-legged Seriema   Chunga burmeisteri       25/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana [spinosa]            20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Black-necked Stilt        Himantopus mexicanus [himantopus]     23/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Andean Avocet            Recurvirostra andina     03/12/2014      Oruro  

Collared Plover            Charadrius collaris        02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Puna Plover      Charadrius alticola [falklandicus]           03/12/2014      Oruro  

Southern Lapwing         Vanellus chilensis          19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Andean Lapwing          Vanellus resplendens     02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Greater Yellowlegs       Tringa melanoleuca       02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Solitary Sandpiper        Tringa solitaria  21/11/2014      Loreto 

Spotted Sandpiper        Tringa macularia           01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Baird's Sandpiper         Calidris bairdii  03/12/2014      Oruro  

Pectoral Sandpiper       Calidris melanotos        02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Wilson's Phalarope       Steganopus tricolor       03/12/2014      Oruro  

Andean Gull     Larus serranus  30/11/2014      Epizana           

Yellow-billed Tern        Sterna superciliaris        20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Large-billed Tern          Phaetusa simplex          22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger 22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Picazuro Pigeon            Columba picazuro         23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Spot-winged Pigeon     Columba maculosa       05/12/2014      Lake Titicaca   

Band-tailed Pigeon       Columba fasciata          30/11/2014      San Carlos      

Pale-vented Pigeon       Columba cayennensis    20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes           

Eared Dove      Zenaida auriculata         28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Ruddy Ground-dove     Columbina talpacoti      19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Picui Ground-dove       Columbina picui            20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Bare-faced Ground-dove          Metriopelia ceciliae       01/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Black-winged Ground-dove      Metriopelia melanoptera 02/12/2014    Cerro Tunari    

White-tipped Dove       Leptotila verreauxi        21/11/2014      Loreto 

White-faced Dove        Leptotila megalura        28/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

White-throated Quail-dove       Geotrygon frenata         01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Ruddy Quail-dove        Geotrygon montana      28/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Blue-and-yellow Macaw           Ara ararauna    20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Blue-throated Macaw   Ara glaucogularis          21/11/2014      Loreto 

Military Macaw            Ara militaris      23/11/2014      Abapo 

Red-fronted Macaw     Ara rubrogenys 29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Chestnut-fronted Macaw          Ara severa        19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Yellow-collared Macaw           Ara auricollis    21/11/2014      Loreto 

Blue-crowned Parakeet            Aratinga acuticaudata    24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Mitred Parakeet           Aratinga mitrata            26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

White-eyed Parakeet    Aratinga leucophthalmus           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Dusky-headed Parakeet           Aratinga weddellii         21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Peach-fronted Parakeet            Aratinga aurea  22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Green-cheeked Parakeet          Pyrrhura molinae           22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Monk Parakeet            Myiopsitta monachus    29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Grey-hooded Parakeet Bolborhynchus aymara  28/11/2014      Comarapa       

Andean Parakeet          Bolborhynchus orbygnesius       02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Blue-winged Parrotlet   Forpus xanthopterygius             19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Yellow-chevroned Parakeet      Brotogeris chiriri 19/11/2014    Santa Cruz      

Cobalt-winged Parakeet           Brotogeris cyanoptera cyanoptera         21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Scaly-headed Parrot     Pionus maximiliani         23/11/2014      Abapo 

Blue-fronted Parrot       Amazona aestiva           21/11/2014      Loreto 

Yellow-crowned Parrot            Amazona ochrocephala 23/11/2014      Abapo 

Squirrel Cuckoo           Piaya cayana    22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin    21/11/2014      Loreto 

Greater Ani      Crotophaga major        20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Smooth-billed Ani         Crotophaga ani 19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Guira Cuckoo   Guira guira        19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Striped Cuckoo            Tapera naevia   20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Rufescent Screech-owl Otus ingens ingens 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes    

Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia         19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Striped Owl      Asio clamator   22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Common Potoo            Nyctibius griseus           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Nacunda Nighthawk     Podager nacunda          21/11/2014      Loreto 

Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis brasiliana    29/11/2014      San Carlos      

White-collared Swift     Streptoprocne zonaris   30/11/2014      Cochabamba   

Short-tailed Swift          Chaetura brachyura      23/11/2014      Abapo 

White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes   

Andean Swift    Aeronautes andecolus   30/11/2014      Siberia 

Planato Hermit        Phaethornis pretrei           27/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Sparkling Violet-ear      Colibri coruscans          27/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Black-throated Mango  Anthracothorax nigricollis          20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Glittering-bellied Emerald          Chlorostilbon aureoventris         20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Gilded Sapphire            Hylocharis chrysura      22/11/2014      Trinidad           

White-tailed Goldenthroat         Polytmus guainumbi      21/11/2014      Loreto 

White-bellied Hummingbird       Amazilia chionogaster   29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Giant Hummingbird       Patagona gigas  02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Collared Inca    Coeligena torquata        04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Violet-throated Starfrontlet       Coeligena violifer          01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Red-tailed Comet         Sappho sparganura       02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina      30/11/2014      Siberia 

Blue-crowned Trogon   Trogon curucui 19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Ringed Kingfisher         Ceryle torquata 20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Amazon Kingfisher       Chloroceryle amazona  21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Amazonian Motmot      Momotus momota        22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Rufous-tailed Jacamar   Galbula ruficauda ruficauda       21/11/2014      Loreto 

Spot-backed Puffbird   Nystalus maculatus       25/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Black-fronted Nunbird  Monasa nigrifrons         22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Blue-banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis 26/11/2014        Refugio los Volcanes   

Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis 19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Toco Toucan    Ramphastos toco          21/11/2014      Loreto 

White-wedged Piculet   Picumnus albosquamatus albosquamatus           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker      Melanerpes cruentatus  20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

White-fronted Woodpecker      Melanerpes cactorum   24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Bar-bellied Woodpecker          Veniliornis nigriceps      04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola          03/12/2014      Oruro to La Paz Road 

Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris      19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Lineated Woodpecker  Dryocopus lineatus       21/11/2014      Loreto 

Olivaceous Woodcreeper         Sittasomus griseicapillus            21/11/2014      Loreto 

Black-banded Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes picumnus 27/11/2014     Refugio los Volcanes   

Straight-billed Woodcreeper     Xiphorhynchus picus     20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Narrow-billed Woodcreeper    Lepidocolaptes angustirostris    21/11/2014      Loreto 

Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus      21/11/2014      Loreto 

Bolivian Earthcreeper    Upucerthia harterti        29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Rock Earthcreeper       Upucerthia andaecola   02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Cream-winged Cinclodes          Cinclodes albiventris     02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

White-winged Cinclodes           Cinclodes atacamensis  02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Rufous Hornero            Furnarius rufus  20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Crested Hornero          Furnarius cristatus         24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Brown-capped Tit-spinetail       Leptasthenura fuliginiceps          02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Tawny Tit-spinetail       Leptasthenura yanacensis          02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Black-throated Thistletail          Schizoeaca harterti        01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis         23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Azara's Spinetail           Synallaxis azarae           29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Cinereous-breasted Spinetail     Synallaxis hypospodia   22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Ochre-cheeked Spinetail           Synallaxis scutata          23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Stripe-crowned Spinetail           Cranioleuca pyrrhophia 24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Light-crowned Spinetail            Cranioleuca albiceps     30/11/2014      Siberia 

Iquico Canastero          Asthenes heterura [pudibunda]  02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Cordilleran Canastero   Asthenes modesta         02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Creamy-breasted Canastero     Asthenes dorbignyi       02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Puna Canastero            Asthenes sclateri           04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Scribble-tailed Canastero          Asthenes maculicauda   04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Plain Softtail     Thripophaga fusciceps  20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Plain Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons            20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Little Thornbird Phacellodomus sibilatrix            24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Spot-breasted Thornbird          Phacellodomus maculipectus     29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Greater Thornbird         Phacellodomus ruber    22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Wren-like Rushbird      Phleocryptes melanops 02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Lark-like Brushrunner   Coryphistera alaudina   24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Pearled Treerunner       Margarornis squamiger 30/11/2014      Siberia 

Grey-crested Cacholote            Pseudoseisura unirufa    20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Grey-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus albigularis 26/11/2014        Refugio los Volcanes   

Giant Antshrike Batara cinerea  29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Great Antshrike            Taraba major    21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Barred Antshrike          Thamnophilus doliatus   21/11/2014      Loreto 

Bolivian Slaty Antshrike            Thamnophilus   23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Variable Antshrike        Thamnophilus caerulescens       28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Rufous-capped Antshrike         Thamnophilus ruficapillus           28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Stripe-backed Antbird  Myrmorchilus strigilatus 23/11/2014      Abapo 

Mato Grosso Antbird   Cercomacra melanaria  20/11/2014      Trinidad           

White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota       26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Short-tailed Antthrush   Chamaeza campanisona 27/11/2014     Refugio los Volcanes   

Olive-crowned Crescent-chest Melanopareia maximiliani           02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Trilling Tapaculo           Scytalopus parvirostris  30/11/2014      Siberia 

Bolivian Tapaculo Scytalopus femoralis bolivianus         26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Puna Tapaculo  Scytalopus simonsi        02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Diademed Tapaculo      Scytalopus schulenbergi            04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Red-crested Cotinga     Ampelion rubrocristata  02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

White-tipped Plantcutter           Phytotoma rutila            28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Band-tailed Fruiteater   Pipreola intermedia       04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Barred Fruiteater          Pipreola arcuata            04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus 26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant        Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer  23/11/2014      Abapo 

Ochre-faced Tody-flycatcher    Todirostrum plumbeiceps          28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher  Todirostrum latirostre    21/11/2014      Loreto 

Southern Beardless Tyrannulet  Camptostoma obsoletum          24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet      Phaeomyias murina       28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Chaco Suiriri Flycatcher            Suiriri suiriri      24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

White-crested Elaenia   Elaenia albiceps            23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Small-billed Elaenia       Elaenia parvirostris        29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Sierran Elaenia  Elaenia pallatangae        30/11/2014      Siberia 

White-throated Tyrannulet        Mecocerculus leucophrys          30/11/2014      Siberia 

Buff-banded Tyrannulet            Mecocerculus hellmayri 30/11/2014      Siberia 

White-bellied Tyrannulet           Serpophaga munda       24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Greater Wagtail-tyrant Stigmatura budytoides 23/11/2014         Monteagudo Road       

Tufted Tit-tyrant           Anairetes parulus          02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Many-coloured Rush-tyrant      Tachuris rubrigastra      02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet       Phylloscartes ventralis 27/11/2014        Refugio los Volcanes   

Cinnamon Flycatcher    Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea          30/11/2014      Siberia 

Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea    29/11/2014      San Carlos      

Black Phoebe   Sayornis nigricans         26/11/2014      Bermejo Canyon        

Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant     Ochthoeca rufipectoralis           04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

D'orbigny's Chat-tyrant Ochthoeca oenanthoides           02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Rufous-bellied Bush-tyrant        Myiotheretes fuscorufus            30/11/2014      Epizana           

Grey Monjita    Xolmis cinerea  21/11/2014      Loreto 

White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata    21/11/2014      Loreto 

White Monjita  Xolmis irupero  23/11/2014      Abapo 

Cinereous Tyrant          Knipolegus striaticeps   24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Andean Tyrant  Knipolegus signatus      30/11/2014      Siberia

White-winged Black Tyrant Knipolegus 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari

Black-backed Water-tyrant      Fluvicola albiventer [pica]         20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Cattle Tyrant    Machetornis rixosus      20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Rufous Casiornis           Casiornis rufa   19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Brown-crested Flycatcher         Myiarchus tyrannulus    21/11/2014      Loreto 

Tropical Kingbird         Tyrannus melancholicus 20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Fork-tailed Flycatcher  Tyrannus savana           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Eastern Kingbird           Tyrannus tyrannus         19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Variegated Flycatcher   Empidonomus varius     24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Crowned Slaty-flycatcher         Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus      19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Boat-billed Flycatcher   Megarynchus pitangua  20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes   

Streaked Flycatcher      Myiodynastes maculatus           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Social Flycatcher          Myiozetetes similis        21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Lesser Kiskadee           Philohydor lictor           20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Great Kiskadee            Pitangus sulphuratus      20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Barred Becard  Pachyramphus versicolor          04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Masked Tityra  Tityra semifasciata        26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

White-rumped Swallow            Tachycineta leucorrhoa 19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Brown-chested Martin  Phaeoprogne tapera      20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Grey-breasted Martin   Progne chalybea 20/11/2014    Santa Cruz      

Southern Martin            Progne elegans 28/11/2014      Comarapa       

Blue-and-white Swallow           Notiochelidon cyanoleuca         28/11/2014      Comarapa       

Pale-footed Swallow    Notiochelidon flavipes   30/11/2014      Siberia 

Barn Swallow   Hirundo rustica 20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Andean Swallow          Hirundo andecola         02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

White-capped Dipper   Cinclus leucocephalus   02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Black-capped Donacobius        Donacobius atricapillus 20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Thrush-like Wren          Campylorhynchus turdinus        22/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Moustached Wren        Thryothorus genibarbis  26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Fawn-breasted Wren    Thryothorus guarayanus 19/11/2014     Santa Cruz      

House Wren     Troglodytes aedon        23/11/2014      Abapo 

Mountain Wren            Troglodytes solstitialis   01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Chalk-browed Mockingbird     Mimus saturninus          20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Brown-backed Mockingbird     Mimus dorsalis 30/11/2014      Sacambambilla

Swainson's Thrush        Catharus ustulatus         26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Chiguanco Thrush         Turdus chiguanco          30/11/2014      Sacambambilla

Great Thrush    Turdus fuscater 30/11/2014      San Carlos      

Glossy-black Thrush     Turdus serranus            30/11/2014      Siberia 

Rufous-bellied Thrush   Turdus rufiventris          27/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Creamy-bellied Thrush  Turdus amaurochalinus  23/11/2014      Abapo 

Black-billed Thrush       Turdus ignobilis 20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Masked Gnatcatcher    Polioptila dumicola        21/11/2014      Loreto 

White-collared Jay        Cyanolyca viridicyana   01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Purplish Jay      Cyanocorax cyanomelas           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Plush-crested Jay          Cyanocorax chrysops   19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

House Sparrow            Passer domesticus        19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Red-eyed Vireo            Vireo olivaceus 23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Hooded Siskin  Carduelis magellanica    24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Black Siskin     Carduelis atrata            03/12/2014      Oruro to La Paz Road 

Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi            24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Masked Yellowthroat   Geothlypis aequinoctialis           23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Brown-capped Redstart           Myioborus brunniceps  28/11/2014      Comarapa       

Spectacled Redstart      Myioborus melanocephalus       30/11/2014      Siberia 

Two-banded Warbler   Basileuterus bivittatus    26/11/2014      Bermejo Canyon         

Pale-legged Warbler     Basileuterus signatus     30/11/2014      Siberia 

Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis 01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Cinereous Conebill       Conirostrum cinereum   02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Blue-backed Conebill   Conirostrum sitticolor    04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Black-faced Tanager    Schistochlamys melanopis         20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Common Bush-tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus      30/11/2014      Siberia 

Superciliaried Hemispingus        Hemispingus superciliaris           01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Orange-headed Tanager           Thlypopsis sordida        28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Guira Tanager   Hemithraupis guira        26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Hooded Tanager          Nemosia pileata            21/11/2014      Loreto 

Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops           26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Silver-beaked Tanager  Ramphocelus carbo      19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Sayaca Tanager            Thraupis sayaca            20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Palm Tanager   Thraupis palmarum       26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Blue-capped Tanager   Thraupis cyanocephala  04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Blue-and-yellow Tanager          Thraupis bonariensis     28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Hooded Mountain-tanager        Buthraupis montana      01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager           Anisognathus igniventris            04/12/2014      Death Road     

Purple-throated Euphonia         Euphonia chlorotica      21/11/2014      Trinidad           

Blue-and-black Tanager           Tangara vassorii            04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Blue Dacnis      Dacnis cayana  19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Rufous-collared Sparrow          Zonotrichia capensis     23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Grassland Sparrow       Ammodramus humeralis            20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris       27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes        

Bolivian Brush-Finch     Atlapetes rufinucha       30/11/2014      Siberia 

Fulvous-headed Brush-finch      Atlapetes fulviceps        30/11/2014      Siberia 

White-browed Brush-finch        Arremon torquatus        30/11/2014      Siberia 

Red-crested Cardinal    Paroaria coronata         20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Red-capped Cardinal   Paroaria gularis 21/11/2014      Loreto 

Yellow-billed Cardinal  Paroaria capitata           19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Many-coloured Chaco-finch     Saltatricula multicolor    24/11/2014      Boyuibe           

Red Pileated-finch        Coryphospingus cucullatus        23/11/2014      Abapo 

Black-hooded Sierra-finch        Phrygilus atriceps          02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Peruvian Sierra-finch     Phrygilus punensis [atriceps]      05/12/2014      Lake Titicaca   

Grey-crested Finch       Lophospingus griseocristatus     28/11/2014      Samaipata       

White-winged Diuca-finch         Diuca speculifera          04/12/2014      La Cumbre      

Bolivian Warbling-finch Poospiza boliviana        02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Rufous-sided Warbling-finch     Poospiza hypochondria 02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Cochabamba Mountain-finch    Poospiza garleppi         02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Ringed Warbling-finch  Poospiza torquata         28/11/2014      Samaipata       

Black-capped Warbling-finch   Poospiza melanoleuca   23/11/2014      Abapo 

Bright-rumped Yellow-finch      Sicalis uropygialis          03/12/2014      Oruro  

Greenish Yellow-finch   Sicalis olivascens          02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Saffron Finch    Sicalis flaveola  19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Great Pampa-finch        Embernagra platensis    20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Blue-black Grassquit    Volatinia jacarina          19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Rusty-collared Seedeater          Sporophila collaris        21/11/2014      Loreto 

White-bellied Seedeater            Sporophila leucoptera   20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Band-tailed Seedeater  Catamenia analis           04/12/2014      La Cumbre

Plain-coloured Seedeater          Catamenia inornata       02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Grey-bellied Flower-piercer      Diglossa carbonaria      30/11/2014      Siberia 

Masked Flower-piercer            Diglossopis cyanea       30/11/2014      Siberia 

Black-backed Grosbeak           Pheucticus aureoventris 24/11/2014      Boyuibe 

Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens 22/11/2014 Trinidad               

Golden-billed Saltator   Saltator aurantiirostris   23/11/2014      Monteagudo Road       

Rufous-bellied Saltator  Saltator rufiventris         02/12/2014      Cerro Tunari    

Ultramarine Grosbeak   Cyanocompsa brissonii 23/11/2014      Abapo 

Crested Oropendola     Psarocolius decumanus 19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Dusky-green Oropendola         Psarocolius atrovirens   26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

Yellow-rumped Cacique           Cacicus cela     21/11/2014      Loreto 

Mountain Cacique        Cacicus chrysonotus     01/12/2014      Tablas Monte  

Solitary Cacique           Cacicus solitarius          22/11/2014      Trinidad           

Epaulet Oriole  Icterus cayanensis         21/11/2014      Loreto 

Orange-backed Troupial           Icterus icterus   20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Yellow-winged Blackbird         Agelaius thilius  02/12/2014      Cochabamba   

White-browed Blackbird          Leistes superciliaris 25/11/2014            Camiri 

Scarlet-headed Blackbird         Amblyramphus holosericeus      20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Chopi Blackbird           Gnorimopsar chopi       19/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Bolivian Blackbird        Oreopsar bolivianus      29/11/2014      San Carlos 

Velvet-fronted Grackle Lampropsar tanagrinus 20/11/2014   

Bay-winged Cowbird   Molothrus badius          20/11/2014      Santa Cruz      

Screaming Cowbird      Molothrus rufoaxillaris   20/11/2014      Trinidad           

Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis   23/11/2014      Abapo 

Giant Cowbird  Scaphidura oryzivora   26/11/2014      Refugio los Volcanes   

  

Mammals

 

White-eared (Bolivian) Titi Monkey Callicebus donacophilus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz

Capabara Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris 20/11/2014 Trinidad

White-fronted Capuchin Monkey Cebus albifrons 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz

South American Grey Fox Lycalopex griseus 24/11/2014 Boyuibe

Brown Capuchin Monkey Cebus paella 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes

Nine - banded Armadillo Dasypus novemcinctus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes

Bolivian Squirrel Sciurus ignitus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes

White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus 29/11/2014 Comarapa

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