Trip Report to Bolivia
By Sue Bryan
Sue Bryan and Paul Jeffery
This was a birding holiday organised by Birding Ecotours www.birdingecotours.co.za as a customised trip to Bolivia for the two of us. We had both been to Northern Peru with Eduardo Ormaeche as our guide from Birding Ecotours in 2013 which we had enjoyed immensely and whilst there discussed the possibility of birding Bolivia knowing the problems of the heights involved. I had reservations about this as I struggle with altitude sickness rather badly. Eduardo assured me that with the right diet and taking a small bottle of oxygen with me, which he would supply, I would manage it. Paul also had a few other ideas and over the course of the year we emailed Eduardo with a shopping list of requested birds to see. Eduardo put together a wonderful tour which we partly pioneered to see the critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw which added to the fun and enjoyment at a cost of 2 x £4117.
Guide Eduardo Ormaeche Driver (main tour) Herman Lijeron Assistant Guide (Beni) Jose Balderrama
18th November Heathrow - Madrid (Spain)
19th November Madrid - Lima (Peru) ? Santa Cruz (Bolivia)
20th November Santa Cruz ? Trinidad (Bolivia)
21st November Trinidad
22nd November Trinidad ? Santa Cruz
23rd November Santa Cruz ? Camiri
24th November Camiri ? Boyuibe ? Camiri
25th November Camiri ? Boyuibe ?Santa Cruz
26th November Santa Cruz ? Refugio los Volcanes
27th November Refugio los Volcanes
28th November Refugio los Volcanes ? Samaipata ? Comarapa
29th November Comarapa -San Carlos ? Comarapa
30th November Comarapa ? Cochabamba
1st December Cochabamba and Tablas Montes
2nd December Cochabamba and Cerro Tunari
3rd December Cochabamba- La Paz
4th December La Paz and Coroico (Death Road)
5th December La Paz and Lake Titicaca ? Lima - Madrid
6th December Madrid -Heathrow
International flights to Santa Cruz via Lima and Madrid, returning from La Paz via Santa Cruz, Lima and Madrid cost (2x £1019) return with www.ebookers.com booked independently with Lan Airlines.
Birding Ecotours sub-contracted Herman Lijeron to drive and prepare breakfasts and picnic lunches for us.
We obtained a small amount of Bolivianos at the airport ATM. Since this was an all-inclusive trip we only spent money on some personal drinks and sweets. (Nearly all drinks were freely supplied throughout)
The weather was hot and sunny for all of our time in the lower altitudes but colder, with some rain on one day, at a higher elevation in the cloud forest. It was colder but sunny at higher elevations in the Andes.
The beginning of the tour was spent in the Beni province in open scrub, secondary growth areas with some marshes around the town of Trinidad. After flying back to Santa Cruz we birded areas of dry open scrub and Chaco before continuing to cloud forest. At higher altitudes we encountered montane habitats rising to over 4000m high.
Paul and I left Heathrow on an early evening flight to fly to Madrid.
Just after midnight we flew from Madrid, Spain to Lima, Peru on an overnight flight. After a few hours wait we flew from Lima to Santa Cruz, Bolivia where Eduardo and Herman were waiting for us with a vehicle. After a quick change of clothing we were on our way to a nearby secondary forest habitat where we both life ticked Chopi Blackbird, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, White-wedged Piculet, Rufous Casiornis, Fawn-breasted Wren and White-bellied Nothura.
White-wedged Piculet Yellow-chevroned Parakeet
We were both a bit tired from our 24 hours of travel but it was so nice to be out in the sun and warmth birding and away from our hectic working lives back home in a cold grey November with Eduardo once again. Birds came thick and fast as we familiarised ourselves once again with South American birds. Campo Flicker, Burrowing Owl, American Kestrel, Blue Dacnis, Eastern Kingbird, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Turkey Vulture, Black Vulture, Roadside Hawk, Guira Cuckoo, Saffron Finch, Common Potoo are birds often found on S. American bird lists and we added these during the afternoon before making our way to a plush city hotel.
We also added Chestnut-fronted Macaw which was one of the first six species of macaw we were to see on the trip. It was good to see Plush-crested Jay, Rufous Casiornis, Blue-crowned Trogon, Blue-winged Parrolet, Crested Oropendola, Purplish Jay and White-rumped Swallow as well.
Chestnut-eared Aricari Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Getting up early we birded the nearby grasslands of the airport in the hope of finding Red-winged Tinamou which we duly did. I enjoyed views of Aplomado Falcon, one of my favourite falcons as we added more familiar South American birds to our trip list. Sayaca Tanager, Plumbeous Kite, Picui Ground Dove Tropical Kingbird, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Whistling Heron, Cattle Tyrant, Bay-winged Cowbird, Grey-breasted Martin, Great Pampa Finch, Grassland Sparrow were added before we had good views of Orange-backed Troupial and Brazilian Teal.
Herman drove us to the airport where we boarded a flight to Trinidad towards the north of Bolivia. Here we were greeted by Jose, a university lecturer who was to be our assistant guide in the area as we had gained special permission to enter private land in search of the critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw, which is sadly down to last 87 birds left in the wild.
The rest of the day was spent birding a road down to a military base and settlement which had good scrubby habitat and secondary forest at Loma Suarez. Here we stopped at various points by marshy areas adding Limpkin, Wattled Jacana, Striated Heron, Black-backed Water Tyrant, Cocoi heron, Great Egret, White-faced Whistling Duck, Yellow-billed Tern, Neotropic Cormorant, Ringed Kingfisher, Plumbeous Ibis, Grey-necked Woodrail, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Muscovy Duck and Southern Screamer.
Loma Suarez village near Trinidad Plumbeous Ibis
We spied the first of many Rufous Hornero that we were to see, as well as Grey-crested Cachalote, Plain Softtail, Red-crested Cardinal, Black-collared Hawk, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Black-capped Donacobius, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Black-throated Mango, Speckled Chacalaca, Black-bellied Thrush, Mato Grosso Antbird, Yellow-headed Caracara, Lesser Kiskadee and wonderful Blue and Yellow Macaw.
Blue and Yellow Macaw Black-collared Hawk Black-capped Donacobius
Unfortunately I had developed a migraine as I often do after flights, and so once back at the hotel I missed the evening meal taken out in town. No doubt the boys had a good evening without me discussing rock bands!!!!!
Jose This plane didn?t quite make the runway at Trinidad
Hacienda at Loreto Blue-throated Macaw
Eduardo and Jose picked Paul and I up at 5am and together we travelled along a good track-way for an hour and a half to Loreto. This was the pioneering part of the tour to see the endemic critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw. Eduardo had to gain special permission to gain access to the privately owned land. At the village we picked up our contact man who accompanied us along a bumpy track to a private hacienda. We were a bit concerned at the electric wires draped across the track but were assured they were switched off as we hooked them over the vehicle to get through the gate!
Along the track we were treated to Crane Hawk, Grey Monjita, Savanna Hawk, Hoatzin, Jabiru and Wood Stork. Once we arrived at the hacienda we waited by the vehicle for Eduardo to make the necessary arrangements and we were treated to views of Blue-fronted Parrot, Olivaceous Woodcreeper and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper. We were very excited at the privilege to which we were being treated as there are less than 86 Blue-throated Macaw left in the wild and most of the population is difficult to see. All of a sudden Jose said that he could hear the Blue-throated Macaw approaching and we scanned the tree-line in the distance. All of a sudden we had a pair of Blue-throated Macaw fly right over our head and out of sight. We thought that this was the only view we would have but after crossing a wet area and into a nearby forest we were treated to another pair sitting on a nest box erected by a small NGO group in an attempt to encourage breeding. Sadly Blue-throated Macaw are often evicted from nest holes by the more aggressive Blue and Yellow Macaw.
In the forest we were treated to views of Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher and Golden-collared Macaw. Mosquitoes were beginning to nibble at us and we beat a hasty retreat and birded the more open track-way where we watched Brown-crested Flycatcher, Hooded Tanager, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Bare-faced Ibis, Lineated Woodcreeper and Lineated Woodpecker.
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Bare-faced Ibis
We left the hacienda and dropped off our contact man in Loreto and stopped to add birds to our ever-growing list. Another track by the side of a development produced Epaulet Oriole, Red-capped Cardinal, Yellow-rumped Casique and White-tailed Goldenthroat. We continued along our route back towards the hotel and stopped to take photos of a Barred Antshrike. We also saw Rusty-collared Seedeater, Nacunda Nighthawk, Great Black-Hawk and a Rufous-tailed Jacamar.
We arrived back at our hotel in Trinidad for lunch before driving out of town to find more birds. We added Dusky-headed Parakeet and Amazon Kingfisher before Eduardo asked Herman to stop the vehicle. He had heard an Undulated Tinamou in the roadside vegetation. The next half an hour was spent peering into thick vegetation as we realised that the bird was very close. Eduardo and Paul moved a bit further along the roadside just before I was treated to a full view of an Undulated Tinamou in full view through the smallest of gaps in the vegetation. No matter how hard we tried it did not re-show for Paul.
Roseate Spoonbill, Social Flycather, Purple Euphonia and Cobalt-winged Parakeet were all added to the list before we headed back to another hotel for the night.
During the night I had been kept awake by a Striped Owl calling and spent some time standing by the window of my room. Eventually I saw the bird fly from a nearby tree before going back to bed. As we had a flight to catch today we made the most of some early morning birding around the town marshes of Trinidad. Purple Gallinule and Gilded Hummingbird were added to the list as we made our way down to a lake edge where Paul spotted some Black Skimmer in his scope. We watched a Greater Thornbird add some nest material to its nest in company with a Grey-crested Cacholote and added Solitary Cacique, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail and Large-billed Tern before going to the airport.
Peach-fronted Parakeet Gilded Hummingbird
Greater Thornbird Grey-crested Cacholote
Once at the airport we duly checked in as normal but wondered why there did not seem many for our flight. We soon found ourselves boarding a small 19-seater plane. We didn?t mind but our huge camera bags on our laps, was a bit cramped given how hot the flight was! We were thankful that the bottle of water we had been given was ice cold. It all adds to the adventure and we smiled. It was certainly better than a long road trip back to Santa Cruz.
Paul hauls down his huge camera bag from the flight from Trinidad to Santa Cruz with Eduardo in hot pursuit (literally!)
Once back in Santa Cruz we unloaded at the hotel and after a break birded the Santa Cruz Botanical Gardens. On the lake we added Least Grebe and around it Amazonian Motmot, Thrush-like Wren, Squirrel Cuckoo, Black-fronted Nunbird and Green-cheeked Parakeet.
We followed the track into what seemed like excellent habitat to find it totally devoid of birds. We were all surprised at how little we saw for our efforts. As darkness fell we watched White-fronted Capuchin Monkey as well as Black-crowned Night Heron, Green Ibis and Snail Kite all coming into roost.
Today was going to be a long day as we had a lot of driving to do to reach Camiri. Just before we had left the UK my back had given way again and I was in a lot of pain. However we stopped along the way for breakfast and lunch and this gave me an opportunity to get my back mobile again.
Eduardo, Paul and Herman stopping for breakfast Somewhere near Monteagudo
Birding is not always done in ideal conditions and along the route we encountered some rain. This made viewing and taking photographs difficult. I felt sorry for the Scaly-headed Parrots and the Glittering-bellied Hummingbird sat on its nest in the pouring rain. Herman was also tested trying to prepare our food in it too!
Stopping at a roadside pool we watched Black-necked Stilt, Snowy Egret and Ringed Teal. Near Abapo we added Short-tailed Swift, Scaly-headed Parrot, Comb Duck, Red-crested Finch, Military Macaw (sadly not photographable) Yellow-crowned Parrot and a Laughing Falcon begging for his photo to be taken. A Creamy ?bellied Thrush looked worse for wear as we added House Wren and Black-capped Warbling Finch to our list. A Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant gave us a hard time as we searched for it deep inside a bush. I was pleased with the Ultramarine Grosbeak and Striped-backed Antbird as they were ticks!
Scaly-headed Parrot Glittering-bellied Hummingbird
Laughing Falcon Toco Toucan
Eduardo, Paul and I made the most of our food stops and we soon spotted more birds for our list. We had a distant King Vulture soaring above the mountains and a White Monjita sat on a wire. The ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow jumped on our list as well as Masked Yellowthroat, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, Red-eyed Vireo, White-crested Elaenia and Golden-billed Saltator. These were familiar birds to us but we were pleased to see them again but adding a lifer is always a thrill as Bolivian Slaty Antshrike and Ochre-cheeked Spinetail were life ticks as they jumped on our lists. We added Greater Wagtail Tyrant, Picazuro Pigeon and Chaco Chacalaca before arriving at the JR Hotel (I kid you not!) at Camiri.
I can recommend the JR Hotel for its delicious Passion-fruit Mousse. Not to be missed!
The reason for our visit to Camiri was that this was the nearest accommodation to the habitat around Boyuibe where we had wanted to try and find the Black-legged Seriema. We have seen the red-legged version but the Black-legged Seriema is more difficult to see as it is more arboreal lurking amongst vegetation rather than out on open fields.
Up at 4am we drove to Boyuibe and had difficulty finding the right track that would lead us onto the track towards Paraguay. The day was hot as we added Lark-like Bushrunner, Many-coloured Chacofinch, Black-backed Grosbeak, Cinereous Tyrant, Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Hooded Siskin and Blue-crowned Parakeet.
Eduardo, Herman (cooking breakfast) and Paul Paul
After a cooked breakfast we continued on the track towards Paraguay and watched a White-tailed Hawk overhead and found Southern Beardless Tyrannulet and White-fronted Woodpecker. We heard Black-legged Seriema but did not see it. After 30 km down the track we came to a junction and explored in amongst the vegetation and found a Crested Hornero and Little Thornbird, both of which were ticks for Paul and I.
Eduardo decided that we had better turn around and listen as we retraced our route back towards the main track. Just as were nearing Boyuibe, Eduardo heard a seriema calling. The bird had to be close as we tumbled out of the vehicle. We knew it was nearby and could not get far as there a was a sheer cliff-drop just behind the bird. No matter how hard we tried the bird evaporated into thin air! Grrrr?
We added Tropical Parula, White-bellied Tyrannulet and Chaco Suiri Flycatcher for our troubles as we were looking. I seemed to have developed a cold which annoyed me as I was still struggling with my back. As we returned to the hotel I reluctantly gave up the pillow I had borrowed, but Herman went out into town and found me a marvellous hard foam cushion which did the trick for the rest of the journey. I was now much more comfortable travelling. Thanks Herman!
Crested Hornero White-fronted Woodpecker
South American Grey Fox
We had to drive back to Santa Cruz today but Eduardo does not give up easily and luckily for us decided to give the track at Boyuibe another go. We got up at 4am and were soon on our way to the track. Once again we heard the seriema calling and searched the area in vain. It was so frustrating as we had a deadline time by which we had to leave to continue our trip. We had all but given up hope when suddenly Herman spotted a Black-legged Seriema standing right by the roadside. We stared in amazement but were far too slow with our cameras as it hot-footed it back into the vegetation. The long drive back to Camiri was full of happy bunnies! We returned to the JR hotel where we had lunch and Herman re-fuelled the vehicle. Soon we left for the long hot drive back to Santa Cruz. We added White-browed Blackbird, Cattle Egret along the way and Chaco Puffbird as we neared Santa Cruz.
Not everything goes to plan on our birding adventures and it makes life interesting! Today was one of those days. We left at 5.30am and started along the old Cochabamba road. We entered the Bermejo Canyon and came across a queue preventing us from continuing any further. I decided to walk along the line of vehicles to see what the hold-up was. As I rounded a corner I was just in time to see several massive lumps of rocks descending from the mountainside completely blocking the road.
Bermejo Canyon Landslide blocks the road People dogging rocks
After a few hours wait, a workforce of men and a lone digger made a route through the rock fall. It was with some trepidation that Herman drove through it!
A single-file of vehicles making their way through the rock fall.
Once we had arrived at the bottom of the steep track to Refugio los Volcanes we bid goodbye to Herman and got into the 4x4 jeep that was to take us up to the ecolodge. It was a bumpy ride as we climbed and then descended again. About a kilometre before the lodge we got out and birded our way down.
We added Palm Tanager, Dusky-green Oropendola, Guira Tanager, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Moustached Wren, a pair of Bolivian Tapaculo, Black-goggled Tanager, Swainson?s Thrush, and White-backed Fire-eye as we walked down before adding White-tipped Swift Giant Cowbird, Mitred Parakeet from the open area around the lodge.
Eduardo and Paul negotiating one of the streams along one of the birding trails
After a short rest we joined forces with other visitors from the lodge and were taken by the owner of the lodge along one of the trails where we were shown the nest site of the Blue-banded Toucanet. The adult flew as we walked along the trail. It was almost dark as I spotted a Grey-throated Leaftosser sitting at eye-level. Luckily we all had good views.
We were up early and started walking back up the track. We had a good start with good views of a Short-tailed Antthrush. We were hopeful of a good day ahead as the habitat seemed wonderful. The track was steep and I was very grateful that the jeep arrived and took us up to the gate so that we could walk back down. We added Long-tailed Hermit, Plumbeous Pigeon, Black-banded Woodcreeper and had lovely views of Saffron-billed Sparrow which Paul had spotted lurking in the leaf-litter. However it was hard going and considering all our efforts we were seeing very little and added no more to our list by the time we arrived back at the lodge.
Sue Eduardo and Paul arriving back at Refugio los Volcanes
Whilst I busied myself with some domestic chores and notes Paul and Eduardo went back up the track but saw very little.
I was keen to do some active birding and soon settled well into my hammock! I added Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Andean Condor, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Sparkling Violetear from my perch but also enjoyed views of Blue-crowned Trogon. It was all too much for the boys and I was soon hauled off back up the track in the jeep. We were quite amazed at how little we saw that afternoon, failing on a couple of target species. Can?t win them all!
As darkness fell Eduardo played the call of Rufescent Screech-Owl which we duly saw in the trees at the edge of the clearing. I cursed as I had left my camera back in the room.
Refugio los Volcanes Black-backed Grosbeak
After a 5am breakfast we left Refugio los Volcanes and took the little jeep back up the bumpy track to the gate where Herman and our main vehicle was waiting for us. We saw Large-tailed Dove on the route to the gate. Herman drove us back down to the main road but not before I saw a Ruddy Quail Dove on the side of the track. We drove to Samaipata and stopped at several spots to see if we could find Giant Antshrike, a world tick for me. We failed miserably! We added Variable Antshrike, Ringed Warbling Finch and White-tipped Plantcutter.
Herman took a side road that lead near to the spot where Che Guevara was eventually found and killed where we searched by chicken farms for Grey-crested Finch. It was now very hot. Eared Dove, Chaco (Spot-backed) Puffbird and Blue and Yellow Tanager were added to the list before we carried on with our journey. All of a sudden Eduardo shouted and there at the top of a cactus was a Grey-crested Finch.
Chaco (Spot-backed) Puffbird
Another stop produced Rufous-capped Antshrike and a Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet gave us a very hard time. We arrived at Comarapa but drove further on up an extremely dusty, wind-swept road where despite our best efforts we failed to find our crescentchest. We heard it but it was too far up an extremely steep slope and the wind and dust was all too much for us. We did add Brown (Rusty)-capped Whitestart to our list though. A bit disappointed we drove back to town to check into our hotel for the night. Here we added Blue and White Swallow, Southern Martin and Grey-hooded Parakeet.
Paul, Sue and Eduardo at San Carlos San Carlos
San Carlos Reserve sign Red-fronted Macaw
Today was going to be another special day, especially for Eduardo as it was his birthday, as we were destined for the San Carlos Reserve where there is a roost cliff where the critically endangered Red-fronted Macaw may be seen before it leaves for the day?s feeding activities. Red-fronted Macaw is down to the last 130 birds left in the wild. They suffer from persecution from farmers who shoot them raiding food crops and from the usual pressures of the despicable parrot trade.
We set off along the rough track at 4am flushing several Scissor-tailed Nightjar on the track. Soon after first light we arrived at the cliffs and Eduardo set up a scope and we all shared his delight at finding a pair of Red-fronted Macaw preening on the cliff edge. I certainly had my work cut out trying to get a decent photo. We were overjoyed at seeing them and realized what a huge privilege it was. We also had a few Cliff (Monk) Parakeet sat on the cliff edge too.
After breakfast we made our way slowly back along the route we had come adding Bolivian Blackbird, White-bellied Hummingbird and Cliff Flycatcher to our trip list.
Further along the road the next frustration with thick vegetation occurred. This time it was me that had the frustration as a Giant Antshrike called deep from within a bush. This is a bird that has eluded me many times in South America no matter how hard I have tried. Eduardo and Paul had had several glimpses of the bird and did their best to try and help me. Each time I missed it. Nearly in tears with frustration at my own incompetence, somehow the bird had crossed the track without any of us seeing it. This time the vegetation was not as thick and after several attempts I laid eyes on a Giant Antshrike. I can?t believe how long it has taken me to add this one to my world list! Thanks Eduardo and Paul!
Another stop along the road and it was Paul who suffered the frustration with disappearing birds. We had seen a Bolivian Earthcreeper but it was to be quite a while before Paul could add it to his list as we all did our best to help him see it. We added Spot-breasted Thornbird, too. It was an extremely hot day and we returned to the hotel for a short break before we went in search of the crescentchest once more. It was not to be as the winds defeated us. However we added Azara?s Spinetail and Small-billed Elaenia before the day was out.
Bolivian Brush-finch Tyrian Metaltail
Sue and Paul San Benito
We left Comarapa at 5am to begin our long journey on the old road to Cochabamba. The old road is more of a track really. We were now going to begin the high altitude birding in the Andes. First we climbed up to Siberia into cloud forest where it was wet and cold. Bolivian Brushfinch, Light-crowned Spinetail, Buff-banded Tyrannulet and Trilling Tapaculo were all world ticks but we also added White-throated Tyrannulet, Masked Flowerpiercer, Tyrian Metaltail, Pearled Treerunner, Andean Tyrant, Common Bush Tanager, Cinnamon Flycatcher and Glossy Black Thrush. The altitude was beginning to tell on me and I took some medication which together made me doze off in the vehicle. Luckily by the time we reached our lunch stop I felt a bit better.
At the lunch stop we added Sierran Elaenia, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, Pale-legged Warbler and I saw a Pale-footed Swallow fly over. In the vegetation we watched Fulvous-headed Brushfinch, White-browed Brushfinch and also saw Andean Swift. As we neared Epizana we saw our first Andean Gull from the vehicle and added Rufous-bellied Bush Tyrant at another stop. Puna Ibis was on a small lake and we saw a Mountain Caracara from the vehicle.
Garages Bolivian Style!
Herman filling up with fuel?note where the fuel pipe is!
We often have amusing incidents on our travels and today we had another one. We were running short of fuel and garages in high altitude mountain routes are often few and far between. We stopped at the only available garage and tried to fill up with fuel. Unfortunately we met up with a ?jobs worth? petrol attendant and he had a ?system?. This involved queuing several times and filling up from the other side of the vehicle from where the tank-filler hole was. Unfortunately the pipe would not reach and had to be passed through the vehicle! Hey ho!
Near Sacambambilla we enjoyed views of Chiguanco Thrush and Brown-backed Mockingbird
The scenery had been stunning for most of the day and we had been at 3600m high. I was pleased that I had not suffered too much from altitude sickness and had actually felt fine for most of the day considering the heights we had travelled at. Now at Cochabamba we watched White-collared Swift over the city. We found our hotel and checked in and enjoyed an evening meal together.
Leaving at 5am we drove up to Tablas Monte, where we walked a track-way in cloud forest. It was chilly and the weather did not look promising. We were hopeful of many lifers today as the habitat looked good and it seemed quite birdy as we ate our breakfast. We saw Citrine Warbler, Black-throated Thistletail, Crowned Chat Tyrant, Superciliaried Hemispingus, and Violet-throated Starfrontlet. It started to rain lightly and we set off walking down the track adding White-throated Quail Dove, Mountain Cacique, White-collared Jay, Hooded Mountain Tanager and Mountain Wren.
Unfortunately even with umbrellas we were now getting very wet and we decided to sit it out in the vehicle for a while. However after a while it was obviously not going to get any better and Eduardo decided to see if we could drive back up the mountain at another elevation to see if the weather was any better. It wasn?t and after sitting in the vehicle for lunch we drove back to Cochabamba and birded the lake.
Herman making the most of the downpour to clean his vehicle!
We added birds to our trip list that included Rosy-billed Pochard, Cinnamon Teal, White-tufted Grebe, Andean Duck, Andean Coot, Spotted Sandpiper, Puna Teal and White-cheeked Pintail. Unfortunately all the ducks were too far away for photographs.
I was looking forward to today as I love remote high altitude birding but I was concerned whether my body would be able to tolerate the altitude. Jose had re-joined us as he knew the area and it was good to have him along. It was a beautiful day as we started the climb up the mountain at Cerro Tunari. The first bird we saw was our ?let?s play hard to get? Olive-crowned Crescentchest. Don?t hold your breath for the picture as it did not want its photo taken!
Olive-crowned Crescentchest Andean Condor
A small truck then passed us with a blanket-covered crate in the back. The people driving knew Jose and stopped to chat to him. Imagine our surprise when they lifted the blanket off the crate to reveal an Andean Condor inside. It was a juvenile bird that had gorged itself too much and was unable to take off. It had been rescued and after some TLC was going to be released back into the wild.
Paul, Eduardo and Jose
I was finding the walking uphill difficult in the thin air but very much enjoying the birding and scenery. We soon added Maquis Canastero, Greenish Yellowfinch, Creamy-breasted Canastero before I spotted some small parrots feeding which turned out to be Andean Parakeet on closer inspection. Three life ticks in little over an hour wasn?t bad going for us! We watchedCinereous Conebill and soon had two more life ticks in the shape of Rufous-bellied Saltator and Bolivian Warbling Finch.
Andean Parakeet Eduardo and Sue
Looking down into the river valley we addedBrown-capped Tit Spinetail, Giant Hummingbird, Red-tailed Comet and Tutfted Tit Tyrant. Rock Earthcreeper was a bit tricky but added itself to our life list as did Cochabamba Mountain Finch. Overhead we watched a gracefulVariable Hawk. They are so beautiful against a sun-lit blue sky. Andean Condor flew overhead as we added White-winged Cinclodes, Tawny Tit Spinetail and then we spotted a White-capped Dipper that soon flew down the river. I was delighted with views of a Puna Tapaculo whilstAndean Swallow flew overhead.
We drove a bit higher up the road and pulled into a small grass track way that was a good spot for a break. A Cream-winged Cinclodes and a Black-winged Ground Dove were on the grassy track along with a Guinea Pig. A small group of Plain-coloured Seedeater fed on the ground as D?Orbigny?s Chat Tyrant, Red-crested Cotinga, Rufous-sided Warbling Finch and Black-hooded Sierra Finch were located in the trees at the side of the track.
Cream-winged Cinclodes Black-winged Ground Dove Guinea Pig
After some lunch and a very short snooze in the sun we drove up to over 4000 metres high. The scenery was amazing with Llamas grazing the short grass available. We enjoyed views of Cordilleran Canastero.
Considering the height and the thinness of air I have never been able to enjoy such a height before without being ill. We had to move very slowly though.
Eventually we drove back down the mountain and back to a smelly marshy area at the back of the airport at Cochabamba. Here we added Wren-like Rushbird, Many-coloured Rush Tyrant, Andean Lapwing, Plumbeous Rail, Collared Plover, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Greater Yellowlegs, Yellow-billed Pintail and Pectoral Sandpiper.
Leaving at 5am we left Cochabamba and started our accent towards La Paz. We took a detour to the chaotic city of Oruro but not before we had climbed up and over a pass of 4500 metres high. I enjoyed the scenery as we travelled. Once in Orurowe were met with chaotic road conditions and many road-works. It seemed a very sensible option of hiring a local taxi to lead and navigate our way through to the lake as road signage was non-existent!
The alto plano scenery en-route to La Paz near Parotani
Chilean Flamingo Cinnamon Teal Puna Plover
Once we had arrived at the lake we were saddened that this wonderful habitat was full of litter and being filled in to make way for development. This is happening all over the world and is very sad that we do not value such wonderful places. We admired Bright-rumped Yellow Finch as a life tick and added Andean Avocet, Crested Duck, Puna Plover, Chilean Flamingo, Baird?s Sandpiper, Wilson?s Phalarope and Andean Goose as trip ticks.
Luckily Herman managed to find his way back out of the city and we settled down to the long drive toLa Paz. On the way we noted Andean Flicker andBlack Siskin at one of our stops. Once we arrived at La Paz I felt sorry for Herman who had to negotiate the traffic which was very congested in the narrow streets.
We endured a slow service at the evening meal but I did enjoy it!
We were ready to leave at 5am but there was no vehicle. Herman had been to fetch it but the hotel car park man had insisted on driving it out of the underground car park. Unfortunately he had lost control of the vehicle, rammed it into the entrance gate, twisting it and now it was stuck and would not open! After a delay the vehicle was extracted and we felt sorry for Herman and his damaged vehicle.
Today we were heading for high altitude and the famed Bolivian Death Road! The most notorious, dangerous road in the world and we were going on it! We climbed up to La Cumbre 4676 metres high. Eduardo had supplied me with a small oxygen bottle for me to use and boy did I need it! The air was very thin.
Paul looking not so happy and Sue with her oxygen bottle La Cumbre
We stopped to admire a Puna Canastero before continuing onto the start of Death Road. Herman stopped near the beginning of Death Road to prepare breakfast whilst we added a few trip ticks in the shape of Collared Inca, Rufous-breasted Chat Tyrant and Band-tailed Seedeater. Eduardo and Paul saw Diademed Tapaculo, which would have been a lifer for me but it didn?t want me to see it. We eventually gave up and went back for breakfast. I was disappointed?grrrrr?.
Death Road Eduardo and Sue on Death Road
Now we started the drive down Death Road and I wish I could show you a video clip that I took. Every few metres there was a memorial cross to someone who had lost their lives over the edge. We walked carefully as we birded. We added Blue-capped Tanager, Barred Fruiteater, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager followed by excellent views of a White-rumped Hawk as it made a swoop into the vegetation to catch something before perching for us to watch it. I had not carried my camera today as I was concerned about the altitude and did not want to carry any extra weight around. This was a shame as we had some excellent views of birds especially the amazing sight of a Band-tailed Fruiteater feeding young. We had brief views of Bar-bellied Woodpecker before re-boarding the vehicle and having lunch at a picnic spot.
We stopped again at the start point and addedBlue-black Conebill. I was not going to let poor Eduardo off the hook that easily though and we walked back down to the tapaculo spot and I am pleased to say that Diademed Tapaculo is now firmly on my world list! Thanks Eduardo!
Eduardo and Herman
By now the mist and fog had descended and thanks must go to our amazing driver Herman who had kept us all safe on this notorious road.
We drove back up to La Cumbre where we admired White-winged Diuca Finch and Andean Gull. It took us some searching before we locatedScribble-tailed Canastero though.
Andean Gull White-winged Diuca Finch
The lake at Los Yungas
At 4676 metres high in the Andes the thinness of air was noticeable and I had to walk slowly to the edge of the lake where Eduardo had located aGiant Coot. The light was stunning as we admired the scenery. We were certainly lucky to be here. All too soon we returned to the madness of La Paz. I was so grateful that I had been able to enjoy the day with the help of my little oxygen bottle!
Sue and Paul at Lake Titicaca Paul andEduardo Lake Titicaca
Leaving La Paz at 4.30 am we drove to Lake Titicaca which was shrouded in fog. However this soon cleared and we watched a few Short-winged (Titicaca Flightless) Grebe out on the lake. Down by the lake edge I took a photo of a Puna Tealbefore finding a hotel for breakfast.
Andean Coot and Short-winged Grebe Puna Teal
Rufous-collared Sparrow Cinereous Harrier
After breakfast we wandered down to the lake edge again and took a few photos of ourselves before admiring a hunting Cinereous Harrier. Spot-winged Pigeon also jumped on our list as we addedPeruvian Sierra Finch too. A Rufous-collared Sparrow begged to have its photo taken.
The Andes at Lake Titicaca Chilean Flamingo
We knew our time was nearly up but stopped once more to admire the scenery and walk to a marshy area where I loved the flight views we had of Puna Ibisand Chilean Flamingo. Soon we were back in the vehicle and Herman drove us back to the airport at La Paz. We said goodbye to Herman and Eduardo and thanked them for a wonderful trip. We have no hesitation in recommending Eduardo as a guide and hope to meet up again one day.
We flew back to Santa Cruz, changed planes and flew to Lima in
We arrived in Madrid in the afternoon and then boarded our plane to Heathrow.
Arriving quite late in the day we stopped at Crowne Plaza airport hotel where we had left our car for the duration of the holiday and spent the night here. This was only just marginally more expensive than a Heathrow park-only car park.
Drove home from Heathrow.
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
White-bellied Nothura Nothura boraquira 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Greater Rhea Rhea americana 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Short-winged Grebe Rollandia microptera 05/12/2014 Lake Titicaca
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Snowy Egret Egretta thula 23/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Great White Egret Egretta alba 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 25/11/2014 Camiri
Striated Heron Butorides striatus [striatus] 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Rufescent Tiger-heron Tigrisoma lineatum 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Wood Stork Mycteria americana 21/11/2014 Loreto
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria 21/11/2014 Loreto
Whispering Ibis Phimosus infuscatus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi 30/11/2014 Epizana
Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus 23/11/2014 Abapo
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis [ruber] 03/12/2014 Oruro
Southern Screamer Chauna torquata 20/11/2014 Trinidad
White-faced Whistling-duck Dendrocygna viduata 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera 03/12/2014 Oruro
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 23/11/2014 Abapo
Ringed Teal Callonetta leucophrys 23/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Crested Duck Anas specularioides 03/12/2014 Oruro
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Puna Teal Anas puna [versicolor] 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Rosy-billed Pochard Netta peposaca 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
American Black Vulture Coragyps atratus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa 23/11/2014 Abapo
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus 05/12/2014 Lake Titicaca
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens 21/11/2014 Loreto
Great Black-hawk Buteogallus urubitinga 21/11/2014 Loreto
Savannah Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis 21/11/2014 Loreto
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Black-chested Buzzard-eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
White-rumped Hawk Buteo leucorrhous 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Variable Hawk Geranoaetus polyosoma 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus 30/11/2014 Epizana
Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans 23/11/2014 Abapo
American Kestrel Falco sparverius 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata [motmot] 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Grey-necked Wood-rail Aramides cajanea 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
American Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Common Gallinule Gallinule galeata 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Slate-coloured Coot Fulica ardesiaca 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Limpkin Aramus guarauna 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Black-legged Seriema Chunga burmeisteri 25/11/2014 Boyuibe
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana [spinosa] 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus [himantopus] 23/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Andean Avocet Recurvirostra andina 03/12/2014 Oruro
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
Puna Plover Charadrius alticola [falklandicus] 03/12/2014 Oruro
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria 21/11/2014 Loreto
Spotted Sandpiper Tringa macularia 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Baird's Sandpiper Calidris bairdii 03/12/2014 Oruro
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
Wilson's Phalarope Steganopus tricolor 03/12/2014 Oruro
Andean Gull Larus serranus 30/11/2014 Epizana
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Picazuro Pigeon Columba picazuro 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Spot-winged Pigeon Columba maculosa 05/12/2014 Lake Titicaca
Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata 30/11/2014 San Carlos
Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Ruddy Ground-dove Columbina talpacoti 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Picui Ground-dove Columbina picui 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Bare-faced Ground-dove Metriopelia ceciliae 01/12/2014 Cochabamba
Black-winged Ground-dove Metriopelia melanoptera 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi 21/11/2014 Loreto
White-faced Dove Leptotila megalura 28/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
White-throated Quail-dove Geotrygon frenata 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Ruddy Quail-dove Geotrygon montana 28/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Blue-throated Macaw Ara glaucogularis 21/11/2014 Loreto
Military Macaw Ara militaris 23/11/2014 Abapo
Red-fronted Macaw Ara rubrogenys 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Yellow-collared Macaw Ara auricollis 21/11/2014 Loreto
Blue-crowned Parakeet Aratinga acuticaudata 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Green-cheeked Parakeet Pyrrhura molinae 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Grey-hooded Parakeet Bolborhynchus aymara 28/11/2014 Comarapa
Andean Parakeet Bolborhynchus orbygnesius 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera cyanoptera 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani 23/11/2014 Abapo
Blue-fronted Parrot Amazona aestiva 21/11/2014 Loreto
Yellow-crowned Parrot Amazona ochrocephala 23/11/2014 Abapo
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin 21/11/2014 Loreto
Greater Ani Crotophaga major 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Rufescent Screech-owl Otus ingens ingens 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Striped Owl Asio clamator 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda 21/11/2014 Loreto
Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis brasiliana 29/11/2014 San Carlos
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris 30/11/2014 Cochabamba
Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura 23/11/2014 Abapo
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus 30/11/2014 Siberia
Planato Hermit Phaethornis pretrei 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura 22/11/2014 Trinidad
White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi 21/11/2014 Loreto
White-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia chionogaster 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganura 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina 30/11/2014 Siberia
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Amazonian Motmot Momotus momota 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda ruficauda 21/11/2014 Loreto
Spot-backed Puffbird Nystalus maculatus 25/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Blue-banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco 21/11/2014 Loreto
White-wedged Piculet Picumnus albosquamatus albosquamatus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Bar-bellied Woodpecker Veniliornis nigriceps 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola 03/12/2014 Oruro to La Paz Road
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus 21/11/2014 Loreto
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus 21/11/2014 Loreto
Black-banded Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes picumnus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus picus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris 21/11/2014 Loreto
Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus 21/11/2014 Loreto
Bolivian Earthcreeper Upucerthia harterti 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Rock Earthcreeper Upucerthia andaecola 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Cream-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes albiventris 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Crested Hornero Furnarius cristatus 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Brown-capped Tit-spinetail Leptasthenura fuliginiceps 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Tawny Tit-spinetail Leptasthenura yanacensis 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Black-throated Thistletail Schizoeaca harterti 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Cinereous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Ochre-cheeked Spinetail Synallaxis scutata 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Stripe-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca pyrrhophia 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Light-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca albiceps 30/11/2014 Siberia
Iquico Canastero Asthenes heterura [pudibunda] 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Creamy-breasted Canastero Asthenes dorbignyi 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Puna Canastero Asthenes sclateri 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Scribble-tailed Canastero Asthenes maculicauda 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Plain Softtail Thripophaga fusciceps 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Plain Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Little Thornbird Phacellodomus sibilatrix 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Spot-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus maculipectus 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
Lark-like Brushrunner Coryphistera alaudina 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger 30/11/2014 Siberia
Grey-crested Cacholote Pseudoseisura unirufa 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Grey-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus albigularis 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Giant Antshrike Batara cinerea 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Great Antshrike Taraba major 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus 21/11/2014 Loreto
Bolivian Slaty Antshrike Thamnophilus 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Stripe-backed Antbird Myrmorchilus strigilatus 23/11/2014 Abapo
Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria 20/11/2014 Trinidad
White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Short-tailed Antthrush Chamaeza campanisona 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Olive-crowned Crescent-chest Melanopareia maximiliani 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Trilling Tapaculo Scytalopus parvirostris 30/11/2014 Siberia
Bolivian Tapaculo Scytalopus femoralis bolivianus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Puna Tapaculo Scytalopus simonsi 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Diademed Tapaculo Scytalopus schulenbergi 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Band-tailed Fruiteater Pipreola intermedia 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer 23/11/2014 Abapo
Ochre-faced Tody-flycatcher Todirostrum plumbeiceps 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher Todirostrum latirostre 21/11/2014 Loreto
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Chaco Suiriri Flycatcher Suiriri suiriri 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae 30/11/2014 Siberia
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys 30/11/2014 Siberia
Buff-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus hellmayri 30/11/2014 Siberia
White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Greater Wagtail-tyrant Stigmatura budytoides 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Tufted Tit-tyrant Anairetes parulus 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Many-coloured Rush-tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea 30/11/2014 Siberia
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans 26/11/2014 Bermejo Canyon
Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
D'orbigny's Chat-tyrant Ochthoeca oenanthoides 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Rufous-bellied Bush-tyrant Myiotheretes fuscorufus 30/11/2014 Epizana
Grey Monjita Xolmis cinerea 21/11/2014 Loreto
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata 21/11/2014 Loreto
White Monjita Xolmis irupero 23/11/2014 Abapo
Cinereous Tyrant Knipolegus striaticeps 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Andean Tyrant Knipolegus signatus 30/11/2014 Siberia
White-winged Black Tyrant Knipolegus 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Black-backed Water-tyrant Fluvicola albiventer [pica] 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufa 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus 21/11/2014 Loreto
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Crowned Slaty-flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Brown-chested Martin Phaeoprogne tapera 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Southern Martin Progne elegans 28/11/2014 Comarapa
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca 28/11/2014 Comarapa
Pale-footed Swallow Notiochelidon flavipes 30/11/2014 Siberia
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Andean Swallow Hirundo andecola 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Fawn-breasted Wren Thryothorus guarayanus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
House Wren Troglodytes aedon 23/11/2014 Abapo
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Brown-backed Mockingbird Mimus dorsalis 30/11/2014 Sacambambilla
Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco 30/11/2014 Sacambambilla
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater 30/11/2014 San Carlos
Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus 30/11/2014 Siberia
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus 23/11/2014 Abapo
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola 21/11/2014 Loreto
White-collared Jay Cyanolyca viridicyana 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Black Siskin Carduelis atrata 03/12/2014 Oruro to La Paz Road
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Brown-capped Redstart Myioborus brunniceps 28/11/2014 Comarapa
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus 30/11/2014 Siberia
Two-banded Warbler Basileuterus bivittatus 26/11/2014 Bermejo Canyon
Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus 30/11/2014 Siberia
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Common Bush-tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus 30/11/2014 Siberia
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata 21/11/2014 Loreto
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Hooded Mountain-tanager Buthraupis montana 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager Anisognathus igniventris 04/12/2014 Death Road
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica 21/11/2014 Trinidad
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Bolivian Brush-Finch Atlapetes rufinucha 30/11/2014 Siberia
Fulvous-headed Brush-finch Atlapetes fulviceps 30/11/2014 Siberia
White-browed Brush-finch Arremon torquatus 30/11/2014 Siberia
Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis 21/11/2014 Loreto
Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Many-coloured Chaco-finch Saltatricula multicolor 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Red Pileated-finch Coryphospingus cucullatus 23/11/2014 Abapo
Black-hooded Sierra-finch Phrygilus atriceps 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Peruvian Sierra-finch Phrygilus punensis [atriceps] 05/12/2014 Lake Titicaca
Grey-crested Finch Lophospingus griseocristatus 28/11/2014 Samaipata
White-winged Diuca-finch Diuca speculifera 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Bolivian Warbling-finch Poospiza boliviana 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Rufous-sided Warbling-finch Poospiza hypochondria 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Cochabamba Mountain-finch Poospiza garleppi 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Ringed Warbling-finch Poospiza torquata 28/11/2014 Samaipata
Black-capped Warbling-finch Poospiza melanoleuca 23/11/2014 Abapo
Bright-rumped Yellow-finch Sicalis uropygialis 03/12/2014 Oruro
Greenish Yellow-finch Sicalis olivascens 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Great Pampa-finch Embernagra platensis 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris 21/11/2014 Loreto
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis 04/12/2014 La Cumbre
Plain-coloured Seedeater Catamenia inornata 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Grey-bellied Flower-piercer Diglossa carbonaria 30/11/2014 Siberia
Masked Flower-piercer Diglossopis cyanea 30/11/2014 Siberia
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris 23/11/2014 Monteagudo Road
Rufous-bellied Saltator Saltator rufiventris 02/12/2014 Cerro Tunari
Ultramarine Grosbeak Cyanocompsa brissonii 23/11/2014 Abapo
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela 21/11/2014 Loreto
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus 01/12/2014 Tablas Monte
Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius 22/11/2014 Trinidad
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis 21/11/2014 Loreto
Orange-backed Troupial Icterus icterus 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius 02/12/2014 Cochabamba
White-browed Blackbird Leistes superciliaris 25/11/2014 Camiri
Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Bolivian Blackbird Oreopsar bolivianus 29/11/2014 San Carlos
Velvet-fronted Grackle Lampropsar tanagrinus 20/11/2014
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius 20/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Screaming Cowbird Molothrus rufoaxillaris 20/11/2014 Trinidad
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis 23/11/2014 Abapo
Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora 26/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
White-eared (Bolivian) Titi Monkey Callicebus donacophilus 19/11/2014 Santa Cruz
Capabara Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris 20/11/2014 Trinidad
White-fronted Capuchin Monkey Cebus albifrons 22/11/2014 Santa Cruz
South American Grey Fox Lycalopex griseus 24/11/2014 Boyuibe
Brown Capuchin Monkey Cebus paella 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Nine - banded Armadillo Dasypus novemcinctus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
Bolivian Squirrel Sciurus ignitus 27/11/2014 Refugio los Volcanes
White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus 29/11/2014 Comarapa