SleepyDee Geckos

Other Gecko Care Guides

My growing collection now includes several other species of nocturnal and/or crepuscular geckos all of which have their own unique niche and care. I hope the following guides provide a source of information and help to other owners or newcomers and although the guides are basic I hope to expand them as time passes.
Where possible I have included both the geckos old latin classification and their more recent re-classification if applicable

Helmeted Gecko
Geckonia chazaliae/Tarentola chazalia

Helmeted Geckos are small but 'chunky' nocturnal geckos found living along North Africa's West coast running from Senegal in the south to Agadir in Morocco in the north ~ their natural habitat consists of a desert type environment formed primarily by arid rocky areas with sparse vegetation where it finds slightly cooler and moister shelter under rocks and various nooks and crannies formed by other debris. Although for the most part a dry area with little rainfall because of the areas closeness to the coastal regions it receives heavy rolling fogs which come off of the Atlantic Ocean.

Recently reclassified from Geckonia chazaliae to Tarentola chazalia, the Helmeted gets it's more common name from the row of enlarged scales lining the back of the head which gives the shape and appearance of a “helmet”... and also a rather grumpy looking expression. Despite the grouchy looks the Helmeted is quite an easy-going little gecko measuring between three and four inches in length with a short slender tail who, whilst not liking being constrained, will tolerate gentle handling and who will also quickly learn when it's meal-time ~ it took less then a week for mine to learn when it was feeding time and begin making their way to the front of their enclosure as soon as I walked into the rep-room.
Helmeteds do not have eyelids so cannot blink or close their eyes, instead they 'wash' them with their tongues, the eyes are covered by a "glass eye" which is thought to be developed from former eyelids. Helmeteds have nocturnal colour vision so can see and distinguish colour even in very low light levels.... they also have acute hearing ~ their ears are to be found just beneath their 'helmet' and are partially hidden.... trying to watch them at night without being noticed can be a challenge with them either giving a chirrup (I've found they can be very vocal) and running towards you in the hope of more food or a 'bark-squeak' and them either scuttling off or doing what I call a 'I am a rock and you can't see me' impression. For a good 'rock' impressionist Helmeteds can move very quickly when they want and ~ as I have found out ~ they are also capable of jumping a fair distance.

Care ~ for the most part Helmeteds are hardy little geckos if given the correct care; a pair consisting of either a male and female or two females can be kept easily in 24" x 12" faunerium/tank ~ as with many species of gecko it is not advisable to keep two males together.
As said previously although they come from an arid habitat it does get moisture so I also provide a low, small moist-hide and once a day I give one end of their tank a light misting of water..... not enough to soak everything but damp enough so that it's dry within a few hours.I've not seen mine drinking but I provide a small water-dish along with a calcium dish.
Like most other geckos Helmeteds periodically shed their old skin, this generally comes off in one piece and mine have eaten the old skin. It's worth making sure that no old skin is retained especially around their toes.
Heating ~ A heat gradient is required for a Helmeteds set-up ~ I use a statted heatmat placed underneath their tank to cover approximately a third of their floor area to create a warm end of around 88*f-90*f (31*c-32*c) with a temperature gradient range down to 75*f (23*c).
Substrate and Furnishings ~ substrate for adults consists of a very thin layer of fine sand with a mix of slate, various rocks, wood and sparce fake 'plants' along with small shelters ~ I would advise making sure any furnishings are well secured as while I haven't seen mine digging they can and do climb. With young it is advised that substrate consist of non-loose flooring such as kitchen-roll paper or similar.
Feeding ~ I've found that Helmeteds will eat a varied diet of suitably sized livefoods (all livefood being no bigger then the space between their eyes) consisting of crickets, locusts and roaches; they will also eat mealworms ~ all food is dusted with calcium during the week and vitamins/D3 weekends and well gutloaded.

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Viper Gecko
Teratolepis fasciata/ Hemidactylus imbricatus

Viper Geckos are a small species of terrestrial gecko found in Pakistan. growing to appriximately four inches they are also commonly called 'carrot-tail geckos' for the shape of their tail. Viper geckos have striking colouration of browns/greys with a 'knitted' overlaying pattern of white, grey or cream which also affords excellent camoflage. Their natural habitat consists of arid, rocky ground with the geckos spending most of the daytime hiding in various rock crevices, under stones and other assorted debris as well in some cases in various dry stone walls.
Although some describe them as nocturnal I would say that they seem to be more crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk), they are active hunters and not at all afraid.
As with the Helmeteds Viper Geckos do not have eyelids so keep their eye's clean by licking them and they also have acute hearing.

Care ~ a pair or small group of females could be kept comfortable in either a large faunerium or a 24" x 12" viv/tank ~ I would not keep a male with the females until the females are at least 12 months old and it is not recommended to keep two males together due to fighting. Ample hides should be provided along with small water and calcium dishes.
Heating ~ A heat gradient is required for the Viper Geckos set-up ~ as with many of my geckos I use a statted heatmat placed underneath their tank to cover approximately a third of the floor area to create a warm end with a hotspot of between 88*f -93*f (31*c-33*c) and a temperature gradient range down to 75*f (23*c).
Substrate and Furnishings ~ substrate use is varied with some keepers using fine sand and others using kitchen-paper, I prefer to use kitchen-paper with a sprinkling of fine desert sand for my Viper Geckos with various rocks and wood as well as bark pieces and various bits of tubing to provide small shelters ~ I would advise making sure any furnishings are well secured as Vipers can be good at climbing.
I provide the geckos with several small low moist-hides for use when shedding and which also simulates the cool more moist nooks and crannies they'd hide in naturally.
Feeding ~ like many I've found that Vipers will eat a varied diet of suitably sized livefoods (all livefood being no bigger then the space between their eyes); mine regularly eat various crickets (both blacks and browns), locusts and small roaches ~ all food is dusted with calcium during the week and vitamins/D3 weekends and well gutloaded. Hatchlings are small and need suitable sized livefood; I feed mine 'pinhead' crickets.

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Barking Gecko
Underwoodisaurus milii /Nephrurus milii

Barking Geckos ~ and yes they do 'bark' ~ are lovely medium sized nocturnal geckos from Australia, recently re-classified from Underwoodisaurus milii to Nephrurus milii have grown in popularity in recent years ~ with their background colouring of shades of browny red pickled with white or yellow spots and big eyes they are certainly striking. There are two distinct types of U.milii to be found though those from the Southern regions tend to be more readily available then the Eastern variety.
Barking Geckos can be found in a variety of different habitats though generally they are to be found in semi-arid scrublands where they hide during the day under stones, roots etc or in various niches. Although they are not diggers plenty of hiding spots should be provided.

Care ~ A pair could be housed comfortably in a viv with at least 200 square inches of floor space ~ I'd recommend a 24" x 12" for a pair or a 36" x 12" for a trio ~ providing plenty of hides, bark etc for them to retreat to or explore. I have found my trio to be extremely curious and checking out everything in their home. As with many species of gecko I would not recommend trying to keep males together due to fighting nor do I recommend trying to keep a male in with the females all the time.
Heating ~ I provide a heat gradient for my geckos using a statted heatmat on the floor at one end providing a heat gradient that ranges from 88*f (31*c) at the warm end to 75*f (23*c) at the cool end ~ I find this works well for mine and allows them ample room to thermoregulate. They do not like temperatures over 32*c.
Substrate and Furnishings ~ Barking Geckos do not burrow or dig so I prefer providing them with a solid flooring covered with a dusting of desert/fine sand with plenty of small hides, bark, stones etc for them to use and explore. I also provide a small moist-hide part-filled with a damp sand/peat mix for them to use whilst shedding.... they do not seem to eat their shed skin like other species do instead I often know when they have shed by the left-overs discarded in the moist-hide. A water dish along with a calcium dish are provided as standard.
I have found that like leos Barking geckos will also choose one ~ or two ~ particular areas to defecate in which can make spot cleaning daily a lot easier.
Feeding ~ I've found mine will eat a variety of livefoods such as suitable-sized brown and black crickets, locusts, roaches and mealworms ~ all food well gutloaded and dusted with either calcium or vitamins/d3

Breeding ~ To Come

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Knob-Tailed Gecko
Nephrurus levi levi

Knob-Tailed geckos ~ nick-named due to the knob on the end of their tail ~ to give them their latin name of Nephrurus levi levi are another medium sized Australian gecko becoming more popular with reptile-keeping enthusiasts in recent years. Like the Barking geckos Knob-Tails are also another vocal species given to 'growling' or 'barking' amongst other vocalisations especially when feeling threatened.
Growing to just over four inches Barking geckos come in a variety of brown/reddish colourations splattered in random spots, with white/pale cream underbellies and large hooded eye's ~ they do not have eyelids so wash their eye's with their tongues to keep them moist and clean. Although relatively tolerant of being gently handled these geckos are not as tolerant as more friendly geckos such as leos and ideally are more a 'look but don't touch' gecko, if distressed or frightened they can like other gecko species drop their tail and although it will eventually regrow it will not be the same.

Care ~ Knob-Tails are relatively hardy geckos providing the correct care and attention is given to them. They are nocturnal and spend most of the daytime buried inside their hides often with a 'plug' of sand covering the entrance and only venturing out once daylight is sufficiently faded ~ because of their need to be able to dig it is recommended that they be kept in large fauneriums or tanks with a good covering of sand which should be gently sprayed at one end every other day to provide the humidity they also require. Unless breeding then it's recommended that the male be kept seperate from the females.
Heating ~ Knob-Tails need to be able to thermoregulate so I provide warmth at one end of their floor area using a statted heatmat providing a heat gradient from 88*F (31*c) at the warm end down to 75*f (23*c) at the cool end.
Substrate and Furnishings ~ As said previously Knob-Tails need to be able to dig so I provide them with a good layer of natural sand sloping from one end to the other with variable depths ranging from one inch to two inches with small hides buried in it along with other bits of bark, slate/flat rocks etc to provide ample shelter ~ any furnishings need to be safely used as anything not secured could potentially fall and harm the geckos if they dig under it. I also provide a moist-hide part-filled with damp sand along with water & calcium dishes.
Feeding ~ Knob-Tails in captivity have shown to be ferocious feeders and will eat most livefood offered to them ~ I feed mine suitably sized and dusted crickets (both browns and blacks), locusts and roaches... I have tried them with mealworms but the geckos are more movement orientated and go for more active foods.

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Mourning Gecko
Lepidactylus lugubris

Mourning Geckos (Lepidactylus lugubris) or as I call them 'Pocket Rockets' are an unusual gecko in that they are parthenogenetic ~ the females can reproduce without a male and without having mated. This is something to be aware of if ever buying one of these delightful, small geckos. Another thing worth noting is that Mourning Geckos are also accomplished escape artists and any vivs/tank used should be escape-proofed as much as possible. These small three inch or so geckos are widespread and can be found in many areas ranging across the Pacific from the Hawaiian Islands to Central and Southern Americas, Australia and more. They are highly adaptable and live in a variety of habitats and though classed as nocturnal can often be found out and about during the day too especially if conditions and environments are correct.

Care ~ Mourning geckos do well in social groups and a small group of three or four would be comfortable in a 12" x 12" x 18" tall exo-terra or similar given plenty of cover, bark, plants and hanging leaves etc to provide adequate cover as well as branches and/or vines as they are for the most part arboreal climbing not just plants and branches but also glass (even upside down) and are capable of jumping both horizontally and vertically.
As with most communal geckos not only can social interactions be watched and listened too (Mourning geckos being another vocal species) but also a hierarchy can develop ~ so long as there is plenty of cover any bickering or squabbling should not be too severe. Again as with many keeping any males together is not recommended although it has to be said male mourning geckos are rather rare..
Heating ~ These geckos do well kept in a temperature range of 75*f -80*f either in a warm room or with the subsidised heat of a small statted heatmat on the side of the tank with daily gentle misting for humidity ~ misting twice a day with warmer temperatures ~ the environment should not be left wet all the time but allowed to dry out by the end of the day.
Substrate and Furnishings ~ the tanks substrate can, depending on whether you want real plants, fake plants or a mix of both, be either a suitable growing medium for the plants or a basic substrate of tiles or similar ~ Mourning geckos have a tendency to defecate anywhere and everywhere (including the tanks ceiling) so I would say this needs to be taken into account especially with cleaning. Either way plenty of cover in the form of plants and greenery (both upright and hanging) along with climbing branches or vines should be provided as varied content increases your geckos activities.
A sample of a Mourning Gecko set-up can be seen below ~

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*The information written on my website and in my various care sheets has been gathered
through my own personal experiance and research over the years ~
Please do not use or replicate any information or photographs without permission ~ thankyou *