French Woman's Daywear
|
Most of the women at Michilimackinac would have been the wives of French fur traders or British soldiers. The French population adapted to the native way of life and living on the frontier, incorporating elements drawn from the native culture while still maintaining their European sensibilities. A French woman would typically have worn her skirt shorter than a British woman--very practical for working outside or over an open fire. This outfit would be appropriate to wear while interpreting in one of the French houses, demonstrating cooking or craft methods of the time period. It could also be worn with moccasins in place of buckle shoes.
This outfit is an example of daywear for an informal occasion. The jacket is modeled after a c. 1770 French-style caraco jacket that was sold on Vintage Textile in 2004. It was built from the same bodice pattern as the print polonaise, with length added at the waist and the neckline changed. Another French jacket from a slightly later period at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (seen here) is made from a very similar fabric. That Pierrot jacket is silk, while this is a cotton from Hobby Lobby's home decorator clearance. It is 100% cotton, verified by a burn test, with a woven pattern of textured stripes and flowers. The lining is the same stout linen as the Metis chemise and the gentleman's shirt. The original was lined with linen and the woven pattern of the fashion fabric has long "floater" threads on the back, so I wanted a sturdy lining to protect it. The petticoat is a mid-weight, spring-green linen from Fabrics-Store.com. It is sewn completely by hand, part of a demonstration on-site. Like most 18th c. petticoats, two widths of fabric are pleated to tapes and tied around the waist. The hem is narrow, as it would have been in period. This particular length of linen is rather sheer because of its light color, so two petticoats are worn underneath for modesty and to give the correct shape. Like the print polonaise, this outfit is also worn over a chemise and stays. The neckline is very low, similar to that of the original French-style caraco. A fichu (also called a modesty shawl or kerchief) fills in over the chest, as was common in period. This one is a 36" square of silk gauze from Dharma Trading Co. The Kyoto Costume Institute's book Fashion shows several examples of fichus with varying degrees of embellishment, from very plain like this one to highly embroidered. |
The petticoat comes to about mid-calf and could be worn with other petticoats layered over or under it. The shorter length is less likely to drag through the fire, catch on things, get stepped on, or drape on the ground while bending and lifting. The shoes are reproductions from Jas. Townsend & Son, as are the brass buckles.
Completely hand-sewn for demonstration, the cap is a lightweight linen/cotton blend of a fine weave. The pattern is the "Adelaide" variation from the Fleur de Lys pattern. The ribbon is approximately 2" wide, 100% silk, purchased from M&J Trimming. A number of studies from period paintings in Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail ribbons worn around caps in a similar fashion.
The under-petticoat is made from rose-colored linen from the same source as the green. Like the green one, it is completely hand-sewn, part of an on-site demonstration. It has a deep hem so that it can be lengthened if necessary. Both petticoats have slits approximately 8" long on both sides to allow for a pocket--or a pair of pockets--to be worn underneath. Also, the center front of the caraco jacket is closed with straight pins, which allows for adjustability in size.
A view of the fingerwoven sock garters. This pair is woven of twelve strands of wool yarn in a solid color and is long enough to wrap around the knee twice and tie in a bow. Also, this gives an additional view of the layers of petticoats. The stockings are brown knitted cotton from Jas. Townsend & Son.
A better view of the neckline and fichu. The silk gauze is very sheer and compacts very small, so it creates very little bulk around the neck when tucked into the bodice. The earrings are made of pink and green glass beads and silver hardware on leverback findings.
