Day 1 (Pucallpa to Huanuco) "Were off !"
We are very tired, and have had a world of experiences in just this first day, but I will try to condense it.
We worked until late (2 am) the night before leaving on the trip (NOT smart) trying to get all the last minute things done to the motos. 
We stayed out at the South American Mission which is at km 15 on the highway out of Pucallpa. That is where everyone was to meet at 6:30 am for the photo shoot and the goodbye. Lots of friends there to see us off, but no TV guys like they promised, so we are off.....
We are 11 total (nine friends accompanying us as far as Cuzco). There are 2 other 250's, and all the other bikes are big thumpers (that's one-cylinder big-bore engine motos). Luke and I had difficulty keeping up except on pavement but there wasn't much of that ! The first section was beautiful pavement, but that ended abruptly at km 60 (Neshuya for those that know the area). The dust began (and the deep holes that you can't see BECAUSE of the dust ! 
Within 3 1/2 hours we were at the Boqueron de Padre Abad, a fantastic pass thru the mountain jungle with waterfalls on each side and Cock of the Rock birds flying overhead.
Immediately after began the REALLY ROUGH stuff. Basketball-sized boulders sticking up everywhere in the road and no path between them. That mixed with tight corners and big trucks and busses elbowing their way past each other. To top it all off, the climb began. As we reached 2,000 ft the motos began running rough due to the change in altitude. Over a 3,000 ft mountain jungle pass (picture) and down the other side towards Tingo Maria (a town that mostly lives off the cocaine harvesting and processing, but very beautifully surrounded by jungle covered mountains.
During the last 50 km I had been feeling like something was not right with the rear wheel, it felt like it was going flat. I stopped to glance at it, barely seeing it below the rear saddlebags. It looked fine. But my rear brake was locking up too. I drove on longer, picking up speed as the road got better, but the feel was still there. Finally I stopped, got off the moto and looked closely. It was then I saw the condition of the rear axle (pix) ! The nut and washer had come off and the axle was more than 6 inches out the other side. 
A moment or two longer and I would have been sans a r
ear wheel (probably while passing a truck!)
I knelt right there on the pavement and thanked God for his protection...... then I took pictures because you all might think it a tall tale!
Craig came back looking for me and we knocked the axle back in place and wrapped safety wire around the treads, and took off (albeit much slower) down 15 km into Tingo Maria. It was Sunday (AND a holiday) and there was no fix, so we secured the wire better and headed the remaining 120 km (thankfully all pavement) to our destination
of Huanuco where the real Andes begin. Luke (or Craig) drove beside me regularly looking to see if the "fix" was holding. A light rain greeted us as we rolled into Huanuco as daylight faded. The bed never felt soo good.
I am AMAZED at Luke as he has so little moto experience and has done so well today, making smart decisions on passes and choice of where to put the tires on the rough stuff ! There are many days to go, but a very good start. See you tomorrow.....
NEXT DAY: day2huanucotohuancayo.htm
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