Baron Radi'us Internal Wiring

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WARNING!: The modifications described in these web pages are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I will NOT accept any responsibility if you attempt these modifications yourself. These modification can damage/ destroy/ make the bike UNSAFE/ VOID the Warrantee, injure or cause death to the rider & passenger if the modification are done incorrectly! Seek a Professional motorcycle mechanic if you think your unable to do these modifications yourself or if you think your motorcycle is UNSAFE.  Do the modifications at YOUR OWN RISK!

Now that all the legal mumbo jumbo has been said... I hope these pages help other RS Warrior riders with their mods! Thank you for visiting.

Stay Alert and RIDE SAFE!

Step 1:

To prevent any gas tank damages (scratches & dents), I removed the gas tank from the motorcycle. I also put a towel over the front fender for some protection.

Top left picture shows two of the four screws (2 each side) that hold the tachometer cover to the top triple clamps. Remove these allen head screws.

Top right picture shows the headlight bezel screw. There is one for each side. Be careful that the headlight doesn't fall down and hit the front fender. You can then disconnect the wire connector going to the headlight and put the headlight in a safe place.

There are two more bolts that need removal. The two bottom bolts in the headlight assembly need to be removed. These two bolts hold the headlight assembly to the headlight bracket on the lower triple clamp.

The top two bolts, don't need to be removed. They hold the tachometer assembly to the headlight assembly.

Step 2:

Next step would be to disconnect all the wires from the headlight assembly. You want to disconnect the wire connectors, so that the headlight assembly will be out of the way. All the connectors are color coded and are of different sizes & shapes. It makes the re-connections that much easier.

I used the pictures, to make a note how the factory routed all the wiring.

Step 3:

All the wiring will have to be removed from the wire guide to get access to the handle bar riser nuts (top left photo).

I removed both nuts from the handlebar risers.

Step 4:

Next step was to remove the throttle assembly and the front master cylinder off from the handlebar. I made a note of  how the two colored wires are attached for the brake light switch.

Next to go was the grip, light & horn switch assembly, and the left mirror/ clutch perch. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch lever and also the clutch switch wires.

To remove the left grip, you need to remove the chrome end cap. The chrome end cap is pressed into the end of the handlebar. There are several methods of removing the Left end grip: you can use a channel lock to twist it off (damage may result from the tool if your not careful), you can peel back the rubber grip and tap the cap off away from the handlebar (less chance of damage if done correctly), OR you can try compressed air on the other end of the handlebar to help blow out the end cap. The rubber grip portion is glued directly onto the handlebars. I used some WD-40 with a plastic straw nozzle squirted between the grip and bars to help with the removal. The grip cap is held in place by the rubber grip, it slides right off when you slide the rubber grip off.

Once everything was removed from the handlebars, I applied some side to side movement on the handlebar ends, until the risers worked loose from the triple clamps.

Step 5:

Since, the bolts that Baron provides for the Radius bar is too large (diameter) to go through the wire guides, Baron recommended that the wire guide be removed.

The only way to remove the wire guide is to cut it into several pieces with a Dremel cut off wheel or remove the top triple clamp. I wanted to preserve the wire guide, so I decided to drill the holes larger.

I put a large drill bit into my hand drill and proceeded to enlarge the holes in the wire guide. The hand drill remained stationary and I was careful not to drill into the steel guide in the rubber isolated dampening. With one hand on the drill and the other hand on the wire guide, I moved the wire guide in a circular motion against the drill bit, until the holes were large enough for the Baron bolts to go through. The wire guide has very little free play to get this done, but I got it done with very little effort.

Once the wire guide holes were drilled open for the handlebar bolts. I found some Metric washers that worked perfectly. I found them at a local Ace Hardware. The washers were found in the Metric area and they were called 'M4' washers, I believe they were stainless steel.

The lock washers that Baron provided went onto the bolts provided. The bolts were then fed through the wire guide and through the top triple clamp. Next were the metric M4 flat washers. The bolts were then screwed into the handlebars (I used some LocTite on the bolt). The bolt torque spec for the handlebars is 29 ft lbs.

With the handlebars mounted... the wiring begins...

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Text & Photos © Copyright 2006 REDHORSE