Quick Mods Page 2

WARNING!: The modifications described in these web pages are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I will NOT accept any responsibility if you attempt these modifications yourself. These modification can damage/ destroy/ make the bike UNSAFE/ VOID the Warrantee, injure or cause death to the rider & passenger if the modification are done incorrectly! Seek a Professional motorcycle mechanic if you think your unable to do these modifications yourself or if you think your motorcycle is UNSAFE.  Do the modifications at YOUR OWN RISK!

Now that all the legal mumbo jumbo has been said... I hope these pages help other RS Warrior riders with their mods! Thank you for visiting.

Stay Alert and RIDE SAFE!

Warrior 19mm front axle tools:

Chisel Axle Tool

[Click thumbnails for larger photo]

The front axle requires an 19mm (or 3/4" they are the same size!) Allen socket for removal & installation. Not something you will find normally in your tool box or local hardware store.

It was time to replace my front tire. It was then I noticed what tools I needed to remove the front axle. I didn't have an Allen socket or Allen wrench large enough to fit.

So, I started to look through the tool boxes to see if I could find something that could work. I found a couple of chisels from my tool box that were about the right shape, and I found one that fit perfectly! Then got a 19mm wrench from another drawer that fit over the chisel's shaft. Now it's real easy to remove & install the axle, and I didn't have to drive around town to look for a 19mm Allen socket.

Step #1: Place motorcycle on a suitable stand so that the front wheel is elevated.

Step #2: Remove the left & right brake calipers.

Step #3: Remove right side fork guard. Loosen wheel axle pinch bolt from the right fork leg.
Step #4: Insert chisel (size = 19mm or 3/4 inch) shaft into axle.

Step #5: Use 19mm or 3/4" inch wrench to loosen or tighten the axle.
 

If you still have trouble loosening the axle, try a bigger wrench for more leverage. Just make sure your turning the wrench the right direction and have the axle pinch bolts loosened all the way.

Sparkplug Axle Tool

[Click thumbnails for larger photo]

Another tool that can work as an axle tool for the Warrior is a 5/8 sparkplug socket. These are Craftsman 5/8 sparkplug sockets that may already be in your toolbox. You just have to have one that you can use a 3/8 ratchet extensions through the inside of the socket. Just insert the 3/8 extension and ratchet through the socket and the hex end of the socket should fit the Warrior axle perfectly.

Bolt & Nuts Axle Tool

If you can't find a tool to work or don't want to spend a lot of money. You can just make a trip to the local hardware store and pick up a bolt and a couple of nuts:

You can go to Home Depot and buy a bolt & 2 each (3/4" outside diameter size) nuts. Lock the two nuts together on the bolt. Insert the nut end into the axle and then use a wrench on the bolt head to remove the axle. Cheap too! Maybe $2.00

Regulator relocation inside the lower cowling:

[Click thumbnails for larger photo]

Step #1: I decided to relocate the regulator to the inside of the lower cowling, behind the screen mesh.

Step #2: I made some measurements with a tape measure. I then picked up some aluminum bar stock and cut two pieces.

Step #3: With some more measuring I bent the aluminum straps in three places. I test fitted the brackets against the frame & cowling to make sure I was putting the bends in correctly.

Step #4: After the fitting was done, I drilled a couple mounting holes. I mounted the regulator to the brackets and adjusted the regulator wire connectors for the proper slack.

Step #3: I decided to get some metric studs to replace the two top bolts for the cowling. The bolts took more time to align up than I wanted to bother with. The studs allow me to just hang the regulator relocation bracket off them, then install the cowling over the studs. I use a washer and chrome acorn nuts to secure the top of the cowling.

I don't use the stock metal lower brackets to mount the bottom of the lower cowling to the frame rails. I now just use zip ties to secure the bottom of the cowling to the frame rails. It's a lot faster to install & remove the lower cowling, and a whole lot less frustrating. Fits tighter with a lot less vibrating compared to the stock metal lower brackets.

Painted Fiberglass Tach Cover:

Under Construction...

[Click thumbnails for larger photo]

Step #1: Tachometer cover was removed from the bike. REMOVE: four stainless steel allen head bolts from Tach cover, 2 Phillip head  screws from headlight bezel, two top 8mm  bolts from inside the headlight bowl. Disconnect four quick connect wire connectors.

Step #2: Carefully tape/ mask off the electronics underneath and the LCD & button faceplate with masking tape. OR you can remove the electronics from the Tach cover. [Pictures #1-#3]

Step #3: I carefully cleaned and waxed (two coats of wax) the Tach cover. I then sprayed the Tach cover with mold release. Mold release is like a spray on wax substance that allows the fiberglass to not stick to the item. It may not be necessary, but since I had a spray can... I used it.

Step #4: Items required: Fiberglass cloth, fiberglass resin, resin activator, brush, scissors, paper/ plastic cups. Cut a large enough pieces of fiberglass cloth to completely cover the Tach cover. Mix a small batch of resin and use the proper amount of resin activator. Thoroughly stir the resin in a plastic or paper cup (I mixed up about 1/2 oz. of resin at a time). Lay fiberglass cloth over the Tach cover. Carefully brush on the resin over the cloth, making sure you thoroughly cover the fiberglass cloth.  I used a small amount of blue die in the first resin batch, so that you can see it in the pictures. Make sure that you don't have any air bubbles and all the edges are tacked down and not lifting. Let the first cloth layer to set and dry.

Step #5: When the first layer of cloth is set, mix another resin batch and lay a second layer of fiber cloth. I didn't use blue die on the second layer. Let second layer of cloth and resin set. I only planned to lay only two layers of cloth, you can lay as many layers of fiberglass cloth as you would like. Two layers is solid enough and yet flexible enough for easy removal and install on the Tachometer.

Step #6: When the second layer has set, I used a permanent marker to mark the edges for trimming (since the fiberglass shell is translucent the edges are easy to see). Carefully remove fiberglass shell from the Tachometer cover. My fiberglass shell came off real easy. It didn't harm the Tach cover at all. I just wiped off the mold release and used some detail spray to clean it the Tachometer up. Trim the excess fiberglass cloth with a scissor. I mixed up a third batch of resin and brushed it over the shell to smooth out the surface and to strengthen the shell further. Let resin set until it's completely dry. [Pictures #4 & #5]

Step #7: Sand fiberglass shell smooth. Use more resin if necessary to fill out any low spots or rough spots. Use sand paper to cut the edges to size and smooth them over. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to make easy work of cleaning and shaping the edges. [Pictures #6]

Step #8: When the shell is sanded smooth. Clean the shell of any dust and spray on some primer. When Primer is dry, paint shell with the color of spray paint of your choice.

Step #9: Reinstalled Tachometer onto the bike. Reconnect all the wires and bolt everything back together. Cut a small strip of thin double sided tape or Velcro and install on Tach cover and painted fiberglass shell.

Painting belt guard:

[Click thumbnails for larger photo]

Step #1: First step was to clean the belt guard, then to lightly sand the parts. Just to make sure the primer sticks to the parts well.

Step #2: I sprayed the belt guard and MISC parts with primer. I sprayed two-three light coats of primer. After each coat had dried. (I sped up the drying process in the kitchen oven, set to 150 degrees. Don't do this while your wife/gf is home.)

Step #3: I wet sanded the primer coat smooth. It smoothed out the coat and got rid of any the dust bunnies in the primer coat.

Step #4: Next, I sprayed Krylon "Semi-Flat Black" paint onto the parts. I sprayed at least two coats. I did do some wet sanding in-between the coats. Then one last light coat of semi-flat black spray paint. The Krylon paint does a pretty good job of matching the frame/ swingarm color.

Step #3: Installed belt guard back onto the bike, using blue LockTite on the bolts.

Drilling drain holes in the left turn signals:

[Click thumbnails for larger photo]

I noticed the front & rear LEFT turn signals would have moister/water in them from the morning dew, washing the bike, or riding in the rain. The right side turn signals don't seem to be having these water/ rusting issues. Just the left side turn signals.

So, I drilled little drain holes in the turn signal housing. I drilled my holes at a slightly steeper angle than what your forced to anyways. My thinking, was that while riding the wind passing underneath the hole would create a low pressure atmospheric condition and suck out any water.

My front left reflector was really rusted thoroughly and the rear left bulb was difficult to remove (rusted shut). I bead blasted the front reflector clean and used some steel wool on the few small rust spots of the rear reflector (wasn't as bad as the front). I also cleaned out the rear bulb socket with a wire brush, WD-40, air compressor.

The factory reflector is coated with something to make it more reflective, but that all rusted away. Sand blasting the rust away made it better, but it's not as reflective as the factory coating. I will probably paint the blasted reflector with some silver paint, the next time I open it up. It's noticeably dimmer than the right side, but not nearly as bad when it was all rusted up.

Text & Photos © Copyright 2008 REDHORSE