Quick Mods Page 1

WARNING!: The modifications described in these web pages are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I will NOT accept any responsibility if you attempt these modifications yourself. These modification can damage/ destroy/ make the bike UNSAFE/ VOID the Warrantee, injure or cause death to the rider & passenger if the modification are done incorrectly! Seek a Professional motorcycle mechanic if you think your unable to do these modifications yourself or if you think your motorcycle is UNSAFE. Do the modifications at YOUR OWN RISK!

Now that all the legal mumbo jumbo has been said... I hope these pages help other RS Warrior riders with their mods! Thank you for visiting.

Stay Alert and RIDE SAFE!

Rear Fender Trim:

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Picture #1: Stock fender.

Picture #2: Remove rear plastic fender from the bike. All the lights have connectors that you can disconnect from the main wiring harness under the fender. No electrical wires require cutting. Remove the license plate frame, rear brake light assembly, red bicycle side reflectors. The license plate light/ reflector unbolts from plastic fender. Don't forget to tape the license plate bullet connectors under the rear fender (main wiring harness) with electrical tape. This will prevent shorts and water proof the exposed connectors a little bit.

Picture #3: Dremel with cut off wheel. Makes cutting the plastic fender real easy. You can also use a hacksaw blade.

Picture #4: License plate light protrusion is outlined with tape, I used the tape as a guide for cutting with the Dremel. Cut the license plate protrusion all the way around with Dremel to remove.

Picture #5: Use license plate frame to mark the top mounting holes. Drill the holes for the license plate frame bolts. I then marked the bottom edge of the license plate frame and cut off the excess fender with the Dremel. Use a hand file or sand paper to clean up all the cut edges.

Picture #6: All the parts removed and cut off from plastic fender. (Bicycle reflectors, license plate light/ reflector assembly, license plate light plastic protrusion, and the bottom part of the plastic fender.)

Picture #7: Fender reinstalled on the bike, after the alterations.

Painted 102 Cam cover:

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Step #1: Remove the 5 allen head bolts from the Cam cover. Remove Cam cover from the bike [Picture #1]

Step #2: Make sure the Cam cover is free from oil and wax. Mask the Cam cover with masking tape. I made sure that the masking tape around the "102" recess was firmly pressed against the cover. Using an Exacto knife with a fresh blade. I carefully cut the masking tape from the "102" recesses. [Picture #2]

Step #3: Using a can of spray paint of your choice, spray a few light coats over the cover. Make sure you spray from different angles to get the "102" recess fully covered. [Picture #3] Before removing the masking tape, let the paint dry thoroughly (couple of hours). If you have any overspray or tape lines, use a small dab of paint thinner on rag and lightly wipe the area. [Picture #4]

Step #4: Re-install the Cam cover on the bike. Use blue LocTite on the bolts as you secure the Cam cover onto the bike. [Picture #5]

Pulley cover painted black:

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BEFORE AFTER

Step #1: Remove pulley cover from bike. Remove center cover parts from pulley cover.

Step #2: Use sandpaper or sand blast the clear coat from the pulley cover. I blasted the cover with aluminum oxide in my sand blast cabinet. Blasting the part, made removing the clear coat quick and easy. The pulley cover had a nice clean smooth surface after blasting with aluminum oxide.

Step #3: Make sure you clean and degrease the pulley cover surfaces to prep it for painting.

Step #4: I used Krylon Semi-Flat Black spray paint. It's better to spray many light coats, than one or two thick coats. This will prevent runs. Let paint thoroughly dry. I cured the paint in the kitchen oven at a low temp (approx 250 degrees) for about an hour. Do the oven paint cure at your own risk! (i.e.: wife or girlfriend alert!, or damaged/ warped part if done incorrectly)

Step #5: Reinstall the center cover parts onto pulley cover. Use Blue Loctite on the bolts when you reinstall pulley cover onto the bike. Make sure the drive belt plastic wheel guides and pins go into their respective slots.

Drilled belt cover:

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BEFORE AFTER

Step #1: Belt guard was removed from the bike.

Step #2: A line was penciled in to mark the center line.

Step #3: The first hole was marked with a pencil, then the point was center punched. I started at the narrow end of the belt guard.

Step #4: Drill bit of the appropriate size was selected and chucked into the drill press. Hole was carefully bored through the belt guard. I selected a hole spacing of about 1 1/2 inches from the holes edge to edge. I had to factor in the diameter of the next size drill bit to get the correct 1 1/2 inch spacing.

Step #5: The Upper belt guard was drilled with ever increasing size of drill bit. I used 9-10 different drill bit sizes. Other Warrior modders have used the same drill bit throughout or used only a couple drill bit sizes. It's a matter of how you want to do yours.

Step #6: Reinstall the belt guard, make sure you use Blue Loctite to prevent bolts from working loose do to vibration.

Note: In the After picture, you can see where I polished the lower belt guard. I was doing some test buffing on the belt guard. The upper belt guard will be buffed out, when I have some free time.

Regulator relocation between frame tubes:

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I relocated my regulator between the down tubes. Gives the bike's side profile a clean look.

Update: I've since relocated the regulator inside the lower cowling. See Quick Mods page 2 for details.

Frame bracket for LCV & Krank Vent filter elements (K&N style):

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The "put-put-put" noise coming from the Krank Vent was getting to me. It's only noticeable when your stopped at a traffic light, but it took away some of the coolness factor sitting at the light as cagers admire the Warrior. So, I picked up another chrome filter element to muffle the noise. Definitely helps muffle the Krank Vent noise.

I just didn't like the fact the filters were just laying on top of the rear cylinder's chrome valve cover. So, I made a little bracket to hold the filters. I made the bracket from 1/16 6061 Aluminum sheet.

I made a template from a piece of cardboard. I made adjustments to the template until it was just the right size to fit between the frame tubes and also to give me enough clearance for the filters. I also had to notch it for the Warriors main wiring harness. I traced the template onto the Aluminum sheet and cut it out with a jigsaw.

I put a bend in the bracket greater than 90 degrees, drilled out the holes for the fuel hose fittings, and a pass through hole for the idle adjustment cable. I also drilled a few holes for zip ties, that I use to secure the bracket.

Filed the edges smooth, sand blasted it, and painted it semi-flat black. I also cut a length of vent tubing to go around the edges to protect the frame and eliminate vibration noises.

Mesh screen for the lower cowling:

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Step #1: Lower cowling was removed from the bike.

Step #2: I made a rough template out of cardboard. (I used cardboard from a cereal box.) I made any necessary adjustments to the templates.

Step #3: When I was satisfied with the templates, I traced it onto some steel screen material. The screen material was cut with a jigsaw. I used files and sand paper to clean up the edges.

Step #4: The screen edges were bent to fit around the opening. I painted the screen black when the fitting was done.

Step #5: I made sure the cowling was clean and grease free. I used black silicon to secure the screen to the cowling. I put some thick beads of black silicon around the opening and pressed the steel screen into place. Let the screen & silicon set overnight for a good adhesion.