BAK, coil & sensors relocation

(click photo for larger picture)

WARNING!: The modifications described in these web pages are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I will NOT accept any responsibility if you attempt these modifications yourself. These modification can damage/ destroy/ make the bike UNSAFE/ VOID the Warrantee, injure or cause death to the rider & passenger if the modification are done incorrectly! Seek a Professional motorcycle mechanic if you think your unable to do these modifications yourself or if you think your motorcycle is UNSAFE.  Do the modifications at YOUR OWN RISK!

Now that all the legal mumbo jumbo has been said... I hope these pages help other RS Warrior riders with their mods! Thank you for visiting.

Stay Alert and RIDE SAFE!

Step 1:

There are a lot of hoses, sensors, brackets, clamps to loosen and to be removed.  I took pictures of every step with my digital picture, so that I could reverse the procedure or if they were required for this web page.

The air box can now be carefully removed from the bike.

I installed the K&N 1290 filters onto the throttle bodies, as soon as I got both air boxes off the motorcycle. This was so that nothing would fall into the throttle bodies as I worked on the bike.

As I removed any connector/ wires/ vacuum hose, I took a digital picture or marked the connector with a permanent marker in a way that I would know how to re-assemble. I numbered the coil leads wires and the blades on the coils with numbers 1-4, so that it would go back together just right.

After removing the air boxes, I started to remove the coils, sensors, and hoses. I also removed all the brackets & hoses that were no longer needed.

The IAP sensors on the right side can now be removed.

The front cylinder IAP sensor is located in front of the gas tank rubber mount on the right side. Make a note that the IAP connector is light gray in color. Also make a note of where the vacuum hose goes to. Remove the bracket from the frame of the bike, and then remove the front IAP sensor from the bracket and the vacuum hose.

The rear cylinder IAP sensor is located about midway on the right frame rail. It has a black connector and a short vacuum hose. The black connector looks exactly like the AP sensor from the left side of the motorcycle. So, either mark one connector or both connectors so that they don't get mixed up. Remove the rear IAP sensor from the bracket and disconnect the vacuum hose.

The coils are located up by the frame down tubes. They are bolted to the bracket with two stainless steel hex bolts. Remove the bolts. There are two wire leads going to each coil. Make a note of what color wires go to each terminal. I marked the wires and terminals with a black Sharpy marker. Remove the wire leads, and also remove the spark plug wires from each sparkplug. You may have to carefully unwind the spark plug wires through all the hoses and brackets. The coils should then come right off the motorcycle.

With the coils out of the way, next to go is the LCV. There are two very long bolts holding the LCV & the bracket to the frame. Remove these two bolts. It may take some time to remove these bolts. There are also three vacuum hoses that you'll have to remove from the LCV. Make a note of which hoses are attached to which tubes on the LCV. The middle hose is easy to remember as it's much larger than the vacuum hoses that go to each cylinder. The middle hose is too short to reuse latter on, so I used 1 ft length of 7/16 fuel line hose and a small air filter attached to the end (explained latter below).

Step 2:

Next thing I did, was to print out Bill1943 (You the MAN!) BAK mod pages and diagrams. I transferred the measurements onto a piece of cardboard. I cut out the cardboard template and test fitted it on the bike and made any necessary changes to the template until I was happy with the fit.

Next, I traced the template onto an Aluminum 6061 sheet (1ft x 1ft). I meant to purchase two aluminum sheets 1/8 inches thick, but I grabbed the thinner1/16 thick aluminum sheets by mistake. Instead on going back and getting the right ones, I thought I'd work with what I had.

After I was finished, I was satisfied with the 1/16 aluminum sheet's sturdiness. Sturdy enough for the purpose intended. I'd probably prefer the thicker 1/8 plate and will do my next one with the thicker plate.

I picked up 2 each of the 1ft x 1ft Aluminum 6061 1/16 thick sheets for approx $2.50 each at a local Metal supplier. It was sold by weight.

Step 3:

I drilled a  few jig saw starter holes for the Coil cut outs. I put a fresh fine metal blade in my jig-saw. Proceeded to cut along the lines transcribed. Make sure you wear safety glasses, as aluminum particles were flying!

Step 4:

After cutting the plate into shape, I started marking the holes for the IAP & AP sensors. I proceeded to drill out the clearance holes. I didn't have an 11/16 drill bit required for the IAP & AP sensors, so I drilled pilot holes for the jig saw. I rough cut the large holes with the jig saw and cleaned them up with a rat tail file.

I priced a couple 11/16 drill bits at the local hardware stores and most were over $20. I didn't think it was worth the money for two plates. So, I made do with what I had.

I didn't like all the minor scratches made by the jigsaw & clamps, so I sand blasted the plate with aluminum oxide.

Step 5:

After drilling the large clearance holes for the IAP & AP sensors, I test fitted the sensors and marked & drilled the mounting screw positions.

Coils were done next. I used the coils to marked the mounting screws positions and drilled the holes out.

I then bolted the coils & the AP sensor onto the plate. I did this, so that I can position the Linear Control Valve on the plate for proper clearance. After I was satisfied with the positioning, I marked the two mounting holes for the LCV.

The AT sensor was positioned over the LCV. As the LCV mounts in an angle. It allows enough clearance that I was able to overlap their position as there was more than enough clearance for both.

After drilling and cutting, I used rat tail file & mill files to debur and clean up the edges and large holes.

I mounted the plate onto my vise and made two bends near the top. This is so that the plate sits lower between the bike frame rails.

I also drilled three holes on the plate for zip ties. So that the back portion of the plate could be secured onto the frame.

Step 6:

I then started work on the wiring harness. I made sure all the connectors could reach where they were supposed to go.

I then rewrapped the wiring harness for a factory look. I actually re-wrapped the wiring harness three times. A few of the connectors required either more slack or required to be shortened for a cleaner look.

May take some time to get it right, but in the end it's worth the effort.

I mounted all the sensors & coils onto the plate for a test fit on the bike. When all was fine, I removed the sensors & coils and proceeded to paint the bracket.

Step 7:

After painting, I was worried about grounding issues, so I took my Dremel and ground off the paint in the areas I thought might need it on the underside. I then mounted all the coils & sensors.

I had a tough time finding a "lock nut" for the Temperature sensor. I ended up getting a brass nut from the pipe & hydraulic fitting section in the local hardware store. Total cost for the brass nut & a brass spring washer was $0.99.

I also picked up 14 each "allen button head" black bolts and some nuts (with integral star lock washers) for about $4.62 . I only needed a dozen bolts and nuts, but I picked up a few extra just in case I lose a few pieces.

Step 8:

(updated pics: repainted bracket with semi-matt black spray paint and I made LCV & Krankvent bracket)

I reconnected the LCV  to the wiring harness connector. I couldn't find emission rubber hose for the larger middle tube on the LCV, the stock tube was too short to reuse. So, I used 1ft length of 7/16 fuel line for $1.35.

I got a chrome tapered filter (Spectre breather filter P/N 3998 - ala K&N style) at a local auto store (Autozone) for about $8, it matches very nicely with the K&N 1290s. I used the stock hoses (shortened) for the other two LCV connections.

I got a 2 ft length of 5/32 inch vacuum hose ($2.00) for the IAP sensors. It was more than enough. I installed the IAP sensors using the respective connectors from the wiring harness (Front & Rear cylinder). I also made sure that the respective vacuum hose were plugged into the right IAP sensor (Front & Rear cylinder)

The AP sensor doesn't require a hose! I just plugged it into the wiring harness, using the AP sensor connector.

I reattached the Coil leads (I had previously numbered them 1-4 during the removal process), so this was easy. Front coil for the front cylinder and rear coil for the rear cylinder. The spark plug wires are either long (rear cylinder) or short (front cylinder). The spark plug wires are also labeled L (left) & R (right) for the respective spark plugs.

Air temperature sensor was plugged back into the wiring harness.

I recycled a lot of the hose clamps and clips for the re-install.

When all the wires/ hoses/ and spark plug wires were routed as efficiently and cleanly as possible, I used a few large zip ties to keep everything organized and secure.

I used 1/4 inch vacuum hoses that was slit down with a sharp scissor on each side of the coil/ sensor plate. The 1/4 inch vacuum hoses were cut to size on slid onto each side of the plate, before the plate was zip tied to the frame rails. This will prevent the plate from rubbing directly against the frame rails and scratching it up. This will also eliminate any noise from the plate vibrating against the frame rails. With the plate bolted in the front and zip tied in three place in the rear... it stays put and doesn't move.

I also installed the ET-Performance SPYKE Krank Vent at the same time as I was doing the BAK. Pretty straight forward install. I routed the exit hose, so that it goes to my Krank-Vent & LCV Filter bracket.

Glossary:

Big Thank You goes out to:

I'd like to thank Bill1943 for his excellent plans and DIY mod website and all of the mod gurus at RS Warrior forum for making this project/ mod  as easy as it was.

Text & Photos © Copyright 2008 REDHORSE