I first visited Ireland in 1998 but that trip almost didn’t happen – it was only due to John Gregory’s rapid driving that we reached the ferry at Stranraer just in the nick of time as the drawbridge was closing! We went on to see the adult Thayer’s Gull at Killybegs along with a first-winter American Herring Gull, 25 or so white-winged Gulls and a Richardson’s Canada Goose in County Sligo. Ever since I’ve tried to make at least one winter trip each year; this short piece will give you a flavour of the birding potential of such trips.
A typical scenario - small numbers of gulls with a high proportion of white-wingers (Rossaveal, February 2008)
A lot of what I’ve done over the years is visit the ‘usual sites’ so there’s not exactly a lot of groundbreaking stuff here – though in the last year or so I have tried to go slightly more off piste with varying degrees of success. I’ll aim to give you a flavour of what can be expected but before I do, I recommend that anyone going over to Ireland should get themselves a copy of ‘Finding Birds in Ireland: The Complete Guide’ by Eric Dempsey and Michael O’Clery. This isn’t some guide for f*ckwits saying Nimmo’s Pier is good for white-winged gulls – it’s the real deal with loads of sites that ooze potential that you’ll barely of heard of. From Donegal to Mayo, Galway to Kerry there’s lots of places where that rare could be lurking for months without discovery.
I’ll start off in the north in Donegal and then head south through the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Galway, Clare, Limerick, Kerry and ending up in Cork. I've tamely called this report 'Ireland in Winter' though the title 'Wingers, Ringers and Mingers' did cross my mind...
COUNTY DONEGAL
The best site in the county is Ireland’s largest commercial fishing port Killybegs. It does seem that it’s been neglected a bit coverage wise in recent years, no doubt due to Martin Garner’s relocation back to the UK from Northern Ireland. Nevertheless with form of two Thayer’s Gulls (an adult in 1998 and a juvenile in 2003) along with several American Herring Gulls and annual Kumlien’s Gulls it’s still worth the trek north to visit. Derek Charles and Dermot Breen have been visiting the site this winter and have recorded a fair few Kumlien’s Gulls.
The main pier, Killybegs
It’s a rather large area to view and unfortunately in the last few years with increased security the main port area at the south-west point of the town is gated and you have to view the gulls distantly by the fence just before the security gate. You can still walk along the main pier in the harbour and this often provides quality views of Glaucous and Iceland Gulls. Just to the east of here the notorious blue roof of Gallagher’s Fish Factory (of adult Thayer’s fame) provides close up views of gulls roosting and a further fish factory near the garage at the eastern edge of town can also provide good views of the gulls. As you head out of Killybegs on the road towards Donegal check the estuary by the small bridge and by turning right just after here, you can go along a road that looks back on the town that is also good for gulls – it was here where I found a well-marked adult Kumlien’s Gull in February 2008 and a 1st-winter American Herring Gull in February 2004.
Gallagher's Fish Factory, Killybegs
Other sites that have proved good for white-winged gulls in the past include the small harbour at Burtonport whilst this winter Derek Charles has recorded a number of white-winged gulls (including an adult and second-winter Kumlien’s Gull) in the Moville/Greencastle area. A small congregation of gulls can often be present on the river in Donegal town whilst heading south towards Sligo, checking the scoter flocks at Bundoran and Rossnowlagh have produced Surf Scoter in previous years.
In the north of the county the area around Lough Swilly (Blanket Nook and Inch Island Lake) has had a couple of American Black Ducks, Lesser Scaup and Ring-necked Duck this winter whilst Fanad Head has a large Eider flock where borealis race birds have been recorded on occasions (see here for more Eider info).
COUNTY SLIGO
Probably not quite as well known as it should be for its wintering population of Barnacle Geese. This species is the prime carrier for vagrant Canada Geese and most winters at least one bird can be found in the Raghly/Ballintemple/Lissadell area to the north-west of Sligo town. Some of the Irish Barnacle Geese move over from Islay midwinter - in fact a Richardson’s Canada Goose that Andrew Holden and I found in 2003 looked suspiciously similar to a bird I’d observed on Islay three months previously.
Though eclipsed by Killybegs to the north and Nimmo’s Pier to the south, you can normally find the odd white-winger or Ring-billed Gull in Sligo town. The area that you want to aim for is the river between Markiewicz Street and Ballast Quay – make sure you’re armed with a loaf of bread. Heading west into Sligo Bay I’ve also seen Iceland Gull at Cartron. Recent Sligo sightings can be found here.
COUNTY MAYO
The wild, wild west. It’s often rather rainy here and the landscape is bleak but the rewards are evidently out there – just look at what Dave Suddaby has turned up on The Mullet in recent years. The main areas to focus on are the freshwater areas of Termoncarragh Lake and Cross Lough as well as the exposed sandy beach of Annagh at The Mullet’s most northwesterly point and the harbour in Belmullet town. Winter fare recently in this area has included American Herring Gull, a putative Thayer’s Gull at nearby Barnatra (shots here if you’re interested) as well as the standard fare of white-wingers and Ring-billed Gulls. My first visit to The Mullet was in 2003 where I saw a Forster’s Tern and an American Black Duck within a few hundred yards of each other at Elly Bay/Leam Lough! Barnacle Geese are present in good numbers on The Mullet with vagrant Canada Geese recorded occasionally – the main area to look is Termoncarragh although birds can be found spread across The Mullet.
Adult Ring-billed Gull, Belmullet September 2007
County Mayo is possibly the least watched western county in Ireland so any site is worth a look. For example after seeing a drake Ring-necked Duck at Doogan Lough near Newport in 2003 I popped my head in here in March 2008 and found 3 Ring-necked Ducks – a drake, a female and a first-winter female! Other sites that I have visited in the county that are worth having a look at are the loughs on Achill Island – I’ve seen a long-staying drake American Black Duck at Keel Lough whilst the areas of water around Doogort hold waterfowl in my experience. Heading east around Clew Bay, both Mulranny and Westport Quays are worth checking for gulls and waterfowl. Unfortunately Newport Dump has long gone and the memories of Thayer’s Gull and Ivory Gull here in the late 90s are now fading fast.
COUNTY GALWAY
A typical scene at Nimmo's Pier - eight Iceland Gulls are in this photo!
One site is synonymous with winter birding in this county and doesn’t need much of an introduction – Nimmo’s Pier. Located bang in the centre of Galway city where the River Corrib flows into Galway Bay, each winter it attracts good numbers of white-winged and Ring-billed Gulls. The main draw of this site is the porno views you get of the birds as they come down to the bread that locals chuck at the city’s swan population.
juvenile American Herring Gull and juvenile Iceland Gull, Nimmo's Pier March 2008
This winter a Forster’s Tern and a couple of American Herring Gulls have been present – the returning bird now in adult plumage (that I’ve managed to see each year since it turned up as a juvenile in 2004) as well as a fresh juvenile bird – whilst previous winter highlights have included Double-crested Cormorant and Ross’ Gull. Having a look at this gives you recent news for the area.
adult Forster's Tern, Nimmo's Pier March 2008
Although most birders focus their efforts solely on Nimmo’s Pier, I’d recommend at least driving the half hour or so west to check out the small fishing port of Rossaveal. It’s had American Herring Gull previously while a couple of different 2nd winter Kumlien’s Gulls have been seen this winter here along with half a dozen Iceland Gull and smaller numbers of Glaucous Gulls.
COUNTY CLARE
Bufflehead Lough Atedaun & 2nd-winter Glaucous Gull Doonbeg (both January 2007)
Best known for the autumn seawatching at Bridges of Ross, it is still worth visiting this county in winter – just look at the Bufflehead found here by John Murphy in 2007. More usual fare though would include small numbers of white-winged gulls as well as the chance of a Ring-billed Gull or two. The best coastal sites to visit for gulls include Liscannor Bay (where a couple of Bonaparte’s Gulls have been seen), Doonbeg, Quilty and the small harbour at Kilbaha. When the Forster’s Tern is absent from Nimmo’s Pier it can often be found on the Clare/Galway border off Doorus Pier, Kinvarra.
COUNTY LIMERICK
Adult Ring-billed Gull, Limerick December 2007
The River Shannon flows through Limerick city and on the north side of the river just east of the N18 bridge is a slipway where gulls gather. Ring-billed Gull is regular here as well as the odd Iceland Gull from time to time.
COUNTY KERRY
Juvenile Glaucous Gull, Dingle Harbour December 2007
Gull action and winter birding in The Kingdom is generally best to the south and west of Tralee. Probably the best site in the county is Dingle Harbour where decent numbers of Glaucous and Iceland Gulls are present each winter as well as the occasional American Herring Gull. The best area is the main harbour itself where there’s no restricted access and, at low tide, Milltown Bay just west of the town is good for bathing gulls.
Dingle Harbour and its fishing boats
Other areas on The Dingle peninsular worth checking out for gulls and waterfowl are the beaches of Smerwick, Ferriter’s Cove and Ventry – the latter site holds a long-staying but elusive drake American Black Duck.
Drake American Black Duck, Ventry December 2007
Just to the west of Tralee, the estuary at Blennerville is probably the best bet for Ring-billed Gulls in the county. In particular the grassy area by the road bridge over the canal and the small boating lake near the new houses are the prime areas to chuck out a bit of bread. North-west of Tralee the pier at Fenit has recorded American Herring Gull as well as small numbers of white-winged gulls while concentrations of gulls at Black Rock Strand are worth scanning for Ring-billed and Iceland Gulls. The natural harbour at Barrow is also worth a quick look – like many sites mentioned here in the mid to late 90s it had a long-staying American Black Duck whilst on a visit here in 2003 I saw a Forster’s Tern and a Common Crane.
Near-adult Kumlien's Gull, Reenard Point October 2007
Heading south along The Iveragh Peninsular Cromane Point has attracted white-winged gulls in recent years. Just west of Cahersiveen, in September 2007 whilst on one of my ‘wader finding weekends’, I stumbled on a fish processing plant at Reenard Point as well as a near adult Kumlien’s Gull. On return visits to this site in December 2007 and February 2008 I recorded a handful of white-winged gulls and it’s only a matter of time and increased observer coverage until an American Herring Gull will be recorded here. The nearby harbour at Portmagee holds a few gulls whilst scrutinising the scoter flocks at Ballinskelligs Bay may produce a Surf Scoter – I located a drake here in October 2007.
Ballinskelligs Bay looking west towards Bolus Head
COUNTY CORK
I’ll be honest and say this is the county that I have visited least over the years in winter. Nevertheless, my most recent visit here in December 2007 to its most western extremity did produce a 1st-winter Ring-billed Gull in the large fishing port at Castletown Berehaven at the end of The Beara Peninsular. Although this site has recorded white-wingers over the years, an increase in visits by birders here would undoubtedly produce a few interesting records given its locality.
Heading east the estuaries at Ballydehob, Unionhall, Rosscarbery and Clonakilty are all worth checking – my last winter visit to this latter site produced a couple of Ring-billed Gulls in February 2003 and Lesser Yellowlegs have wintered at Rosscarbery - remarkably two different 1st-winters in consecutive years!
1st-winter Lesser Yellowlegs, Rosscarbery October 2006
The Cork city area itself has long been known as a gull mecca with Thayer’s, American Herring, Laughing and Bonaparte’s all having been recorded. Cork City Dump unfortunately is no longer but Cork City Lough in the city centre attracts Ring-billed Gulls and white-winged gulls (that have included a subtle adult and well-marked 1st-winter Kumlien’s this winter). Cobh Harbour of multiple American Herring Gull fame is always worth a look with Ring-billed Gull regular here as well as one or two white-wingers each winter. Other sites worth checking include Cuskinny Marsh and Tivoli where Ring-billed Gulls are the most likely scarce species to be recorded. That bit further east Youghal Dump has been relatively well-watched over the last couple of years and as well as regular white-winged gulls, both American Herring and Caspian Gulls (the latter mega status in Ireland) have been seen.
Acknowledgements
Over the years many people have accompanied me on winter Irish trips not least Karen my girlfriend who has still yet to master the art of distinguishing any type of gull and remains completely disinterested. Apologies if I’ve missed anyone out but birders include Pete Antrobus, John Archer, Stu Brown, Alan Clewes, Andy Clifton, John Gregory, Andrew Holden, Gary Howard, James Hunter, Mark Lopez, John Pegden, Jonathan Williams, Barry Wright and the main man Garry Bagnell.