Introduction
As part of my annual holiday allowance, I factor in a week or so of it to go on what I describe as a ‘non-birding holiday’ with my girlfriend. You could take your pick through the many exotic destinations that are available nowadays, but I have to think about a location that is going to produce a moderate birding experience where I won’t be tempted to neglect Karen and be out in the field all day. Hence for September 2006
Also coming with the territory of a ‘girlfriend holiday’, this wasn’t a budget trip and we stayed at the 5* The Annabelle, Paphos for a paltry (!) £749 per person for 7 nights including flights and private transfers. Don’t be put off by this price as it’s on the extreme side of what you’d pay for a week in
We hired a car for 5 days using Paphos Car Rentals but it skipped my mind as to how much this was as my credit card had been hammered too much already and I was beyond the stage of caring. Compared to my visit in August 2000, it seems as though the general cost of living in
Literature and websites
I’ll be honest and say that planning for this trip was somewhat last minute. Over the years I’d done my research and I knew the last week of August and the first week of September would coincide with the Demoiselle Crane passage but beyond that I kind of relied upon the sites that I’d visited on my previous trip. The only literature I took with me (bar internet print outs) was my well used, grimy copy of ‘Finding Birds in Cyprus’ by Dave Gosney, a simple map of the island that I’d got given free with the hire car during my last visit, a Rough Guide to Cyprus so that we could look around the more popular tourist attractions and a scribbled map of Akrotiri that Chris Lamsdell kindly drew for me at the Bird Fair a couple of weeks prior to my trip.
The first port of call for any birding trip is the Travelling Birder website, a search engine for trip reports that are hosted on other websites (bar Surfbirds by the looks of things). As you’d expect with a place like
It’d be unfair if I didn’t mention one trip report – that of Frederic Jiguet detailing his observations of Demoiselle Cranes at Akrotiri. Although this report is in French, you can translate it into pigeon English here.
Acknowledgements
Whilst in
Demoiselle Cranes at Akrotiri
Having failed to see the relict population of Demoiselle Cranes on the steppes surrounding Bulanik, Turkey in July 2004, my research suggested that the end of August/beginning of September in Cyprus would offer the greatest chance of seeing this elegant species in the Western Palearctic.
When - the timing of Demoiselle Crane passage at Akrotiri is by no means predictable within the period specified above and, as the table below illustrates, can vary in timing and intensity each year. When using this table, please remember that it is constructed from my own research and therefore may not be fully comprehensive.
|
|
2003 |
2004 |
2005 |
2006 |
|
20th Aug |
8 |
|
|
|
|
21st Aug |
|
|
|
|
|
22nd Aug |
|
|
|
|
|
23rd Aug |
47 |
|
|
|
|
24th Aug |
|
|
|
|
|
25th Aug |
|
|
39 |
|
|
26th Aug |
|
|
|
|
|
27th Aug |
|
|
|
|
|
28th Aug |
150 |
|
131 |
|
|
29th Aug |
130 |
|
140 |
|
|
30th Aug |
16 |
|
4 |
|
|
31st Aug |
180 |
5 |
37 |
132 |
|
1st Sept |
|
|
9 |
|
|
2nd Sept |
|
|
31 |
|
|
3rd Sept |
|
|
|
3 |
|
4th Sept |
32 |
|
|
47 |
|
5th Sept |
|
|
2 |
20 |
|
6th Sept |
7 |
|
|
|
|
7th Sept |
7 |
|
|
10 |
|
8th Sept |
|
|
|
11 |
Sources: Frederic Jiguet & Birdlife
Where - the best place to scan the salt lake is the area immediately adjacent to Sylvana’s Restaurant on the north-east side of the
How - the strategy to see Demoiselle Cranes in
Fortunately or unfortunately, whatever your luck may be that day, it’s a case of get out of the car and scan with your binoculars or scope – if the Demoiselle Cranes are there, despite the distance, you will see them immediately. If they aren’t there, they’re not coming in til that evening at the earliest, so it’s a case of try again the next day. There’s plenty of birding nearby though to keep you occupied until your next attempt.
Daily Diary
2nd September 2006
An early afternoon departure from Gatwick saw us arrive late evening and on time at Paphos after a rather uneventful flight. As it was dark, all we did was check into the hotel and get a bite to eat in the nearby (tacky) resort.
3rd September 2006
Our hire car got delivered to our hotel late morning and therefore a casual breakfast was had at a reasonable hour. We chilled out in the hotel until mid afternoon and then drove the ¾ hour to Akrotiri, a site that I was to visit on numerous occasions during the week.
Karen tried to divert the plan of attack by suggesting we visit various archaeological sites on the way down, but I stood firm and managed to get to Akrotiri without any ‘non-birding detours’. I birded the track from Sylvana’s restaurant to
The pools on the landward side of the road along
4th September 2006
I headed off from Paphos in the pitch dark in what was to become an almost daily pre-dawn drive to Akrotiri. I arrived at Akrotiri shortly after first light and it was with some nervousness that I got out of the car and commenced my scan of the area. Then a second scan, and another but I was by now certain that no Demoiselle Cranes had roosted and that was the case. Driving the short distance back to the village, I had a quick chat (as I had done the previous evening) with Doug Radford who concurred that no cranes were present this morning. A couple of Lesser Grey Shrikes and Marsh Harriers were seen, as were a lot of Crested Larks.
Doug directed me to a small church just to the SW of the village that he thought looked good for migrants. I wasn’t to be disappointed and in an hour or so I’d clocked up some decent birds including an adult Masked Shrike, a Great Reed Warbler, about 8 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, a female Cyprus Warbler, a couple of Red-rumped Swallows amongst large numbers of hirundines, 3 Willow Warblers whilst a ringtail Montagu’s Harrier flew low west. To reach this site - coming into Akrotiri village from the north (Phasouri) after passing under the radio masts turn right before the Environmental Centre by the bakery/café. After a couple of hundred yards, turn right again. Go through the new houses, the tarmac road will bend sharp left once and then after this turn right as it bends left again. Follow this road to where it terminates by a small church – search the bushes in the churchyard and the adjacent scrub.
I arrived back at the hotel in Paphos in time for breakfast and after a relaxing rest of the morning, we headed out for the afternoon to the north-west of the island. I’d been to this area with my father on a previous trip and knew that it was pretty pleasant scenery. I think Karen was relatively content as we visited the tourist attraction of The Baths of Aphrodite (to the west of Laatchi and Polis) whilst I encountered a couple of Cyprus Pied Wheatears, a male Red-backed Shrike, many Sardinian Warblers, a Spotted Flycatcher and a couple of Blackcaps in the vicinity. We arrived back in Paphos at a relatively civilised time.
5th September 2006
Similar to yesterday, I arrived at Akrotiri just after first light and parked the car by Sylvana’s restaurant. I could give you a spin on things and say that I scanned and scanned but in reality it was simple – a group of 20 (16 adults and 4 juveniles) Demoiselle Cranes were immediately apparent as they stood on the dried up lake. Initially a group of 14 and a group of 6, but a plane went over at 6.30am making the smaller group fly and join the other 14 birds. After walking out onto the lake and gaining excellent views of the birds from a sensible distance, I left the site at 7.30am. A first-winter Lesser Grey Shrike was also present.
Retracing my drive through Akrotiri village, I headed north under the radio masts and took the first tarmac road on the left. I then turned left again after a few hundred yards, going through a small area of agriculture, until the Phasouri Reedbeds and pool were visible on the left. Birding was excellent here with the undoubted highlight being a juvenile Little Crake skulking in the reeds at the back of the pool. An array of other species were present here including a drake Ferruginous Duck, a juvenile Purple Heron, half a dozen Garganey and Little Stints, a handful of Black-winged Stilts, 3 Whiskered Terns, 15 Yellow Wagtails (feldegg), a Hoopoe and a couple of Red-rumped Swallows.
Once again I made it back to the luxury of our hotel for a decent breakfast and whilst chilling out during the morning a couple of Purple Herons flew west.
The afternoon excursion was to a relatively impressive archaeological site at Kourion (just to the east of Kensington Cliffs). Looking west from here, 6 Griffon Vultures thermalled just above the cliffs whilst a couple of Eleonora’s Falcons were seen hunting late afternoon. On the return journey to Paphos, we stopped off at the
6th September 2006
I had a lie in this morning before Karen and I headed off to the
The only birds noted on the journey up were a Long-legged Buzzard, being mobbed by Hooded Crows, as it circled the valley bottom just north of Kidasi whilst in the vicinity an adult and juvenile Masked Shrike were noted. After driving through some extremely picturesque and secluded villages we arrived at the visitor’s centre at Troodos village. A Cyprus Pied Wheatear was present here as were several Jays (glaszneri), a couple of Chaffinches and in amongst the large numbers of House Martins there were half a dozen or so Red-rumped Swallows.
During a walk to the waterfall on the Kaledonia Trail, several Coal Tits (cypriotes) were calling whilst a Wren and 3 Spotted Flycatchers skulked in the forest whilst 10 Red-rumped Swallows lingered overhead.
The journey back down towards Paphos was uneventful with the exception of an adult Lesser Grey Shrike on wires near Mamonia whilst a brief stop at the southern end of Aspokremmos Dam produced a roadside Long-legged Buzzard, a Hoopoe, 2 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, a couple of Spotted Flycatchers and an adult Yellow-legged Gull (michahellis).
7th September 2006
Today was the last full day that we had the car. As a result I wanted to make use of it and left Karen at the hotel for the day whilst I had pretty much a full day of birding. As you’d expect the first place on the agenda was Akrotiri salt lake where, once again, my luck was in – 10 Demoiselle Cranes were present early morning. This flock was seen to depart at 9.10am in a southerly direction after gaining immense height.
A search for migrants at the church just SW of Akrotiri village was relatively fruitful. A couple of Golden Orioles were noted, as was a Lesser Grey Shrike, 3 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, a pair of Cyprus Warblers and numerous Crested Larks. The adjacent gravel pit held a couple of Little Ringed Plovers, a Greenshank and 7 Grey Herons.
As I drove the short distance to Phasouri Reedbeds, a Honey Buzzard flew low over the road and fantastic views were obtained. Highlights on the ground here were an ever-elegant adult Marsh Sandpiper, a Spotted Redshank, a couple of Green Sandpipers, a juvenile Whiskered Tern, a Kingfisher, a Cattle Egret and a handful of Garganey. Passerines here included several Fan-tailed Warblers, a couple of Willow Warblers and a few Yellow Wagtails (feldegg).
Not having to be back for breakfast meant that I went back to Akrotiri village and spent a couple of hours from 9.10am to 11.30am looking for raptors from The Environmental Centre. Honey Buzzard passage was decent enough with 122 birds seen, including ‘kettles’ of 58 birds at 9.30am and 49 at 10.10am. A couple of Eleonora’s Falcons flew over as did a dark morph Booted Eagle, 4 Marsh Harriers and 5 Montagu’s Harriers. Other birds noted here included a couple of Red-rumped Swallows and a pair of Red-backed Shrikes on wires on the opposite side of the road.
With raptors tailing off I headed to the pools on the landward side of Ladies Mile Beach where an impressive 121 Kentish Plovers were present with 10 Little Stints and a couple of Dunlin. Further along this road, near the port, is a reed-fringed freshwater pool surrounded by reeds at Zakaki. Birds here included a Little Egret, 18 Grey Herons, 3 Kingfishers, a Whiskered Tern and a couple of Garganey whilst a Honey Buzzard circled over the port. I decided that this was it on the birding front and returned to Paphos where I chilled out for the remainder of the day.
8th September 2006
Although I’d stayed in Paphos for the week, all my birding to date had been away from this area so it would have been rude not to explore Paphos Headland at least once. Therefore I got to this site before the tourist masses were up, not expecting too much as my regular visits here on my previous trip had been pretty birdless. I’d heard conflicting reports as to whether you could get into the fenced area surrounding the archaeological diggings before my trip. I need not have worried as there’s an obvious track that you can walk along where there’s a gap in the fence – this allows access to the area without having to go through the main gate (and pay?).
The rocks at the extreme west end of the headland held the main prize here – a couple of winter plumaged Greater Sand Plovers, and an adult European Golden Plover looked somewhat out of place on the same rocks. Migrants were pretty thin on the ground although 2 juvenile Red-backed Shrikes, a Yellow Wagtail, a male Sardinian Warbler, 2 Fan-tailed Warblers and a Whinchat were all nice to see.
I returned to the hotel for the rest of the morning but in the afternoon, we both walked back to the headland where one Greater Sand Plover was still present with additional birds noted being a couple of Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, an adult and juvenile Yellow-legged Gull, a Common Sandpiper and a Kingfisher.
9th September 2006
This was to be the last day of the holiday and as such rewarded myself with my first lie in. Much of the day was spent relaxing in the hotel grounds but I did manage to get a little bit of birding in at Paphos Headland during the afternoon.
A Shag (desmarestii) in
We were meant to fly back to London Gatwick late evening but the usual charter plane delay reality reared its ugly head again. We eventually got back to Gatwick at 4am on the Sunday morning and were back in
Species List
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
15 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep, common there on 7-Sep with 15 at Zakaki Pool 7-Sep
Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis desmarestii
1 in Paphos harbour on the afternoon of 9-Sep.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
1 at Phasouri Reedbeds on 5-Sep and 7-Sep.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
1 Akrotiri Salt Lake 3-Sep, 7 Akrotiri Gravel Pit 7-Sep, 3 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep and 18 Zakaki Pool 7-Sep
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
1 juvenile Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 2 west over Paphos 5-Sep.
Teal Anas crecca
20+ Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 1 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
1 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 5 Zakaki Pool 7-Sep
Garganey Anas querquedula
6 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep, 5 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep and 2 Zakaki Pool 7-Sep
Shoveler Anas clypeata
10 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 20 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
1 drake Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep.
Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
1 Phasouri Reedbeds 8.23am 7-Sep, 122 over Akrotiri Environmental Centre 7-Sep (58 at 9.30am, 5 at 9.55am, 6 at 10am, 3 at 10.02am, 49 at 10.10am and 1 at 10.24am) and 1 over Zakaki Pool 7-Sep
Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus
6 Kensington Cliffs 5-Sep
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
2 Akrotiri Salt Lake 4-Sep, 1 Phasouri Reedbed 7-Sep and 4
Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus
1 ringtail Akrotiri Gravel Pits 4-Sep, 5 (1 male)
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus
1 just north of Kidasi 6-Sep and 1 Aspokremmos Dam 6-Sep
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
1 dark morph from Akrotiri Environmental Centre 7-Sep.
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Regularly seen throughout the island on all days.
Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae
1 at Akrotiri 3-Sep, 2 Kensington Cliffs 5-Sep and 2 at Akrotiri 7-Sep.
Little Crake Porzana parva
1 juvenile Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep.
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Common at Phasouri Reedbeds and Zakaki Pool
Coot Fulica atra
Common at Phasouri Reedbeds and Zakaki Pool
Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo
20 (16 adults, 4 juveniles)
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
5 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 1 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
2 Akrotiri Gravel Pits 7-Sep
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
10 Ladies Mile 3-Sep and 121 Ladies Mile 7-Sep
Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii
2 on rocks at the western tip of Paphos headland early morning on 8-Sep, with 1 in the afternoon on the same date and still present there on 9-Sep
Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria
A moulting adult present on rocks at the western tip of Paphos headland early morning on 8-Sep
Sanderling Calidris alba
1 Ladies Mile 3-Sep
Little Stint Calidris minuta
8 Ladies Mile 3-Sep, 6 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 10 Ladies Mile 7-Sep
Dunlin Calidris alpina
2 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 2 Ladies Mile 7-Sep
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
2 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
1 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
1 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Greenshank Tringa nebularia
1 Akrotiri Gravel Pits 4-Sep and 2 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
4 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep and 2 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
1 Paphos Headland 8-Sep and 9-Sep.
Western Yellow-legged Gull Larus (cachinnans) michahellis
1 adult Aspokremmos Dam 6-Sep, 2 (adult and juvenile) Paphos Headland 8-Sep and 1 adult Paphos Headland 9-Sep.
Whiskered Tern Chilidonias hybrida
3 (adult winter and 2 1st winters) Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep, 1 1st winter Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep and 1 adult Zakaki Pool 7-Sep.
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus
Several noted in the Troodos foothills 6-Sep
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Common throughout the island.
Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
3 Akrotiri 3-Sep
Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
1 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep, 3 Zakaki Pool 7-Sep and 1 Paphos Headland 8-Sep and 9-Sep.
Hoopoe Upupa epops
1 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep, 1 Aspokremmos Dam 6-Sep and 6 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Common and vocal throughout, especially at Akrotiri and Paphos Headland.
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Good numbers seen in the Akrotiri area on all dates visited
Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common in the Akrotiri area, smaller numbers noted elsewhere
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
2 Akrotiri 4-Sep, 2 Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep, 6+ by the visitor centre at Troodos 6-Sep, 10+ Kaledonia Trail 6-Sep and 2 Akrotiri 7-Sep
House Martin Delichon urbicum
Very common, especially in the Troodos mountains
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg
All birds seen well appeared to be of the race feldegg. 15+ Phasouri Reedbeds 5-Sep, 10 Mandria 5-Sep, 5 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep and 1 Paphos Headland 8-Sep
Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
1 along the Kaledonia Trail, Troodos 6-Sep.
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
1 Paphos Headland 8-Sep.
2 west of Laatchi at the Baths of Aphrodite 4-Sep and 1 around the visitor centre at Troodos 6-Sep.
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
5 Phasouri Reedbeds 7-Sep and 2 Paphos Headland 8-Sep.
Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
1 at the small church SW of Akrotiri village 4-Sep.
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida
8 at the small church SW of Akrotiri village 4-Sep, 2 Aspokremmos Dam 6-Sep, 3 at the small church SW of Akrotiri 7-Sep and 2 Paphos Headland 8-Sep.
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
10 west of Laatchi at the Baths of Aphrodite 4-Sep and 1 Paphos Headland 8-Sep.
1 female in scrub near the small church SW of Akrotiri village 4-Sep and a pair there on 7-Sep.
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
2 west of Laatchi at the Baths of Aphrodite 4-Sep.
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Relatively common, with small numbers most days. Peak of 10+ noted at Akrotiri on 7-Sep.
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
1 west of Laatchi at the Baths of Aphrodite 4-Sep and 3 Kaledonia Trail 6-Sep
Coal Tit Parus ater cypriotes
5 along the Kaledonia Trail 6-Sep
Great Tit Parus major aphrodite
Common in suitable habitat throughout the island
Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus
2 immature/females at the small church SW of Akrotiri village 7-Sep
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio
1 (male) west of Laatchi at the Baths of Aphrodite 4-Sep, 2 (pair) Akrotiri 7-Sep and 2 (juveniles) Paphos Headland 8-Sep
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor
Akrotiri – 4 on 3-Sep, 2 on 4-Sep, 1 on 5-Sep, 2 on 7-Sep and 1 at Mamonia 6-Sep
Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus
1 adult at the small church SW of Akrotiri village 4-Sep and 2 (adult and juvenile) just north of Kidasi 6-Sep
Jay Garrulus glandarius glaszneri
4 by the visitor centre at Troodos 6-Sep and 2 Kaledonia Trail 6-Sep
Magpie Pica pica
Small numbers noted on most days
Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Common, especially in the arid interior of the island
Hooded Crow Corvus corone
Common to abundant throughout.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Common to abundant throughout.
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
2 by the visitor centre at Troodos 6-Sep and 1 Kaledonia Trail 6-Sep
Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Small parties around the island – largest concentration being 15 at Akrotiri 4-Sep
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Relatively common, with 40 on Paphos Headland 8-Sep
Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Small numbers seen throughout the island