ISLAY, ARGYLL IN WINTER.
Lying to the west of the Kintyre peninsular and at the southerly tip of the Hebrides, the island of Islay is one of contrasting landscapes: moorland in the north-east, rugged sea cliffs in the south-west (on The Oa) and two large sea-lochs (Loch Gruinart and Loch Indaal) that surround a deciduous, central glen near Bridgend. With habitat diversity prevalent on the island, it is no surprise that over 100 species of bird are present on Islay in every month of the year. However, it is the winter months that this small island of only 60,000 hectares provides one of the most impressive avian spectacles in the British Isles. With internationally important numbers of wintering Barnacle and Greenland White-fronted Geese, thousands of birds can be seen flying into roost each evening on the two sea-lochs and departing the next morning, grazing on the islands’ pastures during the day. Whether you are interested in vagrant geese or simply the magnificent sight of thousands of wild geese coming into roost on a crisp mid-winter evening, Islay allows one to share both of these experiences simultaneously.
It is easy to presume that wherever there are open fields and grazing areas, geese will be present. In part this is true as Greenland White-fronted Geese can be located virtually anywhere on the island in suitable habitat yet the vast hordes of Barnacle Geese display more site fidelity primarily being present on the lowland flats between Loch Gorm (NR2366) and Bridgend (NR335625). With upwards of 40,000 geese present on Islay during the winter months, it is inevitable that each year a selection of ‘minority’ species are recorded in amongst the Greenland Whitefronts and Barnacle Geese. In particular, the island has become renowned for vagrant Canada Geese in recent years, with this winter (2002/2003) producing at least 13 vagrant Canada Geese and the previous winter (2001/2002) producing at least 7 of these birds. In addition to this species, the island boasts an impeccable record for Lesser Snow Goose with this species being recorded almost annually here for at least the last ten years. As if this was not enough, an immaculately plumaged adult Red-breasted Goose has returned with the wintering Barnacle Geese at Loch Gruinart RSPB Reserve for its second successive winter.
Vagrant Canada Geese
Since the first British record of a vagrant Canada Goose (probably a Richardson’s Canada Goose Branta canadensis hutchinsii) on Islay in 1958 (Palmer, 2000: 65 – 66), vagrants of this species have become an annual occurrence on the island. At least four subspecies (parvipes, taverneri, hutchinsii and interior (as well as a minima-type individual this winter)) have been reliably recorded on the island (see Batty et al, 2001 and Batty & Lowe, 2001 for identification of these distinct forms). Although there is some evidence that vagrant Canada Geese arrive on the island with Greenland White-fronted Geese, within a matter of days they primarily associate in amongst the black-and-white Barnacle flocks. As a rule, wherever there are Barnacle Geese, there is always a realistic chance of locating one of the vagrant Canada Geese. Nevertheless, certain areas on the island seem to fair better for Canada Geese despite Barnacle Geese numbers being lower in these areas than elsewhere on the island. In particular, the unclassified road running from the A846 just south of Bowmore (NR312594) to Gartbreck (NR283582) is a prime site for Canada Geese (both hutchinsii and parvipes forms have been noted here) despite the comparatively small Barnacle flock. Perhaps the most easily found Canada Goose on Islay is a large individual of the form parvipes (Lesser Canada Goose), which this winter is accompanied by its Barnacle Goose mate and two hybrid young (that on first glance look very Canada-like). This bird remains faithful to the area just east of Mulindry along the track to Mulindry Farm (NR357596), three miles east of Bowmore, during the day and can often be found in the roost at Loch Indaal in the evenings/early mornings.
With the number of Canada Geese on the island varying each winter, it is most advisable to merely suggest favoured areas of previous vagrants as opposed to talking about specific individuals. Combined with the impressive numbers of Barnacle Geese, the two roost sites (at the head of Loch Indaal and at Loch Gruinart) offer an extremely good chance of locating a vagrant Canada Goose though the overwhelming numbers of Barnacle Geese present render this venture somewhat challenging. It is necessary to be at these sites at dawn (which is not too early due to the northerly location!) as the Barnacle Geese start leaving from first light. The Loch Indaal roost can be viewed from several lay-bys on the A846/A847 south and west of Bridgend – with the roost normally concentrated from NR329612 on the A846 right the way round to Blackrock (NR305630) on the A847. At Loch Gruinart, the steep-sided pastures on the west side always provide you with a niggling doubt that you may have missed some birds, yet Kilnave (NR284714) provides an adequate vantage point to view the outer roost. Similarly, Barnacles on Gruinart Flats and at the head of the loch are best scanned from the track on the east side of the loch near Craigens (NR296672) and at Bun-an-uillt (NR296694).
During the day, some Barnacle Geese remain on Gruinart Flats (NR2866) and can be seen from the RSPB Centre (NR275672) yet the whole network of fields between Loch Gruinart and Loch Indaal hold Barnacle Geese. In particular, the B8017 between its junction with the A847 (NR299630) and Coullabus (NR296662) has a good record for Richardson’s Canada Goose Branta canadensis hutchinsii as well as it hosting the Red-breasted Goose on more than one occasion. Away from this area, the south side of Loch Gorm between Rockside (NR223638) and Sunderland Farm (NR246646) are favoured by Barnacle Geese and frequently attract vagrant Canada Geese. The fields on the south and west sides of Loch Gorm are also favoured by large flocks of Greenland White-fronted Geese and this winter a Todd’s Canada Goose Branta canadensis interior appears settled with them in fields by Coull Farm (NR208646). The track to Scarrabus (NR348653) just north of the A846, east of Bridgend, and fields near Ballitarsin (NR355612), Knocklearoch (NR399649) and Neriby (NR362605) are all worthwhile locations that play host to Barnacle flocks. As well as Canada Geese, small numbers of Pink-footed Geese and Pale-bellied Brents can be found in amongst the hordes of Barnacle Geese.
Winter 2002/2003 Canada Geese
With higher than average numbers of Barnacle Geese (with a large percentage of first-winter birds) present on Islay this winter, the winter of 2002/2003 has also been an exceptional one for vagrant Canada Geese with at least thirteen individuals (6+ hutchinsii, 4+ parvipes, 2 interior and 1 minima-type) being present. As many of these individuals lack site fidelity, when you find a vagrant Canada Goose it will be necessary to assign it to a particular form and consider whether or not you have previously seen the respective individual elsewhere on the island. Light conditions vary day-by-day and with it the colour and texture (especially the coverts and flanks) of a bird often changes, so probably the best way to be certain that you are looking at a new individual is to analyze the colour (white or milky/dusky) and the shape (rounded/kinked in a certain place/extension towards the crown) of the chinstrap of each bird. Using the example of the regular parvipes residing at Mulindry, this bird displays a milky/dusky, ‘hooked’ chinstrap (broad-based, narrowing and bending away towards the ear-coverts) and combined with a well-proportioned bill, rounded head, relatively short-necked (compared to interior at least) and long-bodied appearance identify it to an individual and to the form parvipes. In addition, although slightly subjective, features such as rear-flanks to fore-flanks to breast colouration, obvious upperpart scalloping (or lack of) and a half-collar (or lack of) at the base of the black necksock help to assign birds to specific individuals and form.
Despite some of this winter’s vagrant Canada Geese roaming around the island’s fields, several appear to be far more site specific especially the two Todd’s Canada Geese (form interior) that are in amongst Greenland Whitefront flocks – one at Leorin (NR354485) and the other at Coull Farm (NR208646) on the southwest side of Loch Gorm. A relatively small, dark Lesser Canada Goose (form parvipes) looks set to winter with Barnacle Geese in fields at Knocklearoch (NR399649) and, of course, the ever-faithful Lesser Canada Goose (form parvipes) remains at Mulindry with its two hybrid young. There have been sightings of at least five birds (1+ Lesser Canada (parvipes) and 4+ Richardson’s Canada (hutchinsii)) northeast of Bridgend and directly north of the A846 between Druim Aladh (NR354636) and Esknish Dairies (NR367648), especially in fields either side of the track to Eorrabus (NR358647). Canada Geese have also been noted this winter in favoured localities such as Sunderland Farm (NR246646), Rockside (NR223638), Kilnave (NR284714) and Craigens (NR296672) but wherever there are geese on the island, there is a very real possibility that a vagrant species may be found.
Vagrant Snow Geese
Unlike the Barnacle Geese, the Greenland Whitefronts on Islay do not communally roost and can be found almost anywhere on the island – from Portnahaven (NR1752) in the west, Port Ellen in the south (NR365455) and Port Askaig (NR431694) in the east. What is noticeable in comparison to the Barnacle Geese is that the Whitefronts flock in smaller numbers. Amongst these dark beasts, the island has an impressive reputation for attracting Lesser Snow Geese. Although the regularly wintering white morph has failed to appear this winter or the previous winter in the Port Charlotte area (it used to favour the fields at Octomore (NR248589)), it appears to have been replaced by an adult blue morph that resided with Greenland Whitefronts in the Loch Gruinart area in winter 2001/2002 and this winter, it has been seen at the south end of the island, northwest of Port Ellen in the Cornabus Farm (NR334465)/ Leorin (NR354485) area amongst large numbers of Greenland White-fronted Geese.
It’s not all geese
For those who wish to diversify from the goose spectacle, Islay provides excellent winter birdwatching (see the excellent site-by-site guide by Dr. Malcolm Ogilvie (website below) for a more comprehensive list of sites). Even on the ferry from the mainland to the island, it is hard not to be impressed by the large numbers of Great Northern Divers present on the sea and the odd Black Guillemot that fly past in their winter-plumaged marble attire. A large wintering flock of Scaup annually winter in Loch Indaal being best viewed from either Bowmore Pier (NR310610) on the south side of the loch or closer views are often obtained from the various pull-ins on the A847 on the north side of the loch (particularly the stretch from Glenburn (NR308620) to Bruichladdich Pier (NR264609). Birds also present on the loch in winter may include Long-Tailed Duck, Velvet and Common Scoters, Eider, divers (predominantly Great Northern, with the other two species present in much smaller numbers), Pale-bellied Brent Goose as well as a good variety of waders including Purple Sandpiper (often present on the rocks between Bruichladdich Pier and the memorial (NR260602) on the A847). Especially in late winter (march/April) there is a real possibility of Glaucous and Iceland Gull on either of the two sea lochs or at the small rubbish dump (NR295583) just outside Bowmore.
The island also boasts a healthy population of Chough, these birds being best seen on the southwest side of Loch Gorm near Kilchoman (NR215633) or along the west side of Loch Gruinart (NR277673 north to NR286728), particularly around outhouses and derelict buildings, with the rough ground near Ardnave Loch (NR285727) being particularly productive. Chough can, however, be encountered almost anywhere on the island with the cliffs at The Mull of Oa (NR268416) well documented as being productive for this species. Golden Eagle is a scarce resident, favouring the Rhinns (an upland area to the east of Portnahaven). Merlin, Peregrine and Hen Harrier are all fairly common on the island in the winter months – during five days geese watching this November, I noted eight separate sightings of the latter species without making a concerted effort to see one! Although birdwatchers tend to remain in the Loch Gruinart/Indaal area, anywhere on the island has the potential to produce interesting records. With limited coverage, Frenchman’s Rocks (NR152540) has produced some impressive seabird sightings and the nearby town of Portnahaven hosted an American Redstart on 1st November 1982. Indeed, the rocky shoreline in the south-eastern corner of the island between Ardbeg (NR414464) and Claggain Bay (NR463535) is worthwhile scanning, particularly as the latter site hosted a Harlequin Duck in October 1987.
Timing, getting to and staying on Islay
It is possible to visit many of the geese sites within a day, yet at least three full days are preferable in order to scan the flocks in search of that potential stray species. It is also necessary to remember that as the geese, in particular the Barnacles, roost in two large flocks (one at Loch Indaal and one at Loch Gruinart) there is invariably interchange of individuals each day at their daytime grazing grounds. For example, a vagrant Canada Goose seen at midday one day in the Loch Gorm area (NR 2366) may be relocated the next day grazing with Barnacle Geese in fields near Kilnave. In terms of timing, Greenland Whitefronts are present on the island throughout the winter yet Barnacle Goose numbers fluctuate considerably with numbers tailing off during mid-winter (late-December to mid February) when some of the population visits northwest Ireland. These birds return to Islay from late winter into early spring before partaking in their northbound migration. Interestingly, a Taverner’s Canada Goose Branta canadensis taverneri present on Islay in November/December 2001 was the same individual seen in Co.Sligo in January 2000 and Co.Donegal in February/March 2001.
Whilst on the island, you will often encounter goose flocks at extremely close range and the best way of viewing them without disturbance is from the car. There are several specially created birdwatching lay-bys that can be used yet if there are geese that are only viewable from the road, pull-in and be careful to avoid parking in dangerous locations such as blind summits and sharp bends. Although Islay is an island, it is easily accessible by a car ferry from Kennacraig that sails to Port Ellen/Port Askaig up to twice a day, with one sailing on Sundays (see Caledonian MacBrayne website, details below) and British Airways offers daily flights from Glasgow. The small towns of Bowmore, Port Ellen and Port Charlotte all offer accommodation (hotels/bed and breakfasts). Whilst on the island, sheet 60 of the Ordnance Survey Landranger series is essential as many of the sites detailed here are not signposted and are therefore difficult to find. Whilst in the field, the excellent RSPB Centre at Loch Gruinart (tel: 01496 850505) has a live camera on the geese at Gruinart Flats as well as providing toilet facilities.
Useful Reading and Websites
References
Batty, C., Hackett, P. & Lowe, T. 2001 Vagrant Canada Geese in Britain: autumn 2001. Birding World 14: 515 – 519.
Batty, C. & Lowe, T. 2001 Vagrant Canada Geese in Britain and Ireland. Birding World 14: 57 – 61.
Palmer, P. 2000 First for Britain and Ireland 1600 – 1999. Arlequin Press. Harlow.
