An Introduction to Coops
There are many different types of coop. Some people keep small numbers
of chickens in arks, and there are bigger coops, some with runs
attached and some without.
The major things to look for in a coop are:
- Size. Does the coop hold as many birds as you need it to? Bear in mind that companies often over estimate the number of birds that can be comfortably put in and chickens are addictive so your collection will grow.
- Ease of use. It's a real bonus if you can stand up in the run to catch them. You also need it to be easy to keep clean.
- Price. Is it good value for money? It is usually far more cost-effective to build your own.
The major things to look for in a coop are:
- Size. Does the coop hold as many birds as you need it to? Bear in mind that companies often over estimate the number of birds that can be comfortably put in and chickens are addictive so your collection will grow.
- Ease of use. It's a real bonus if you can stand up in the run to catch them. You also need it to be easy to keep clean.
- Price. Is it good value for money? It is usually far more cost-effective to build your own.
Space Requirements
Floorspace in the coop:
Only usable floor space (i.e. not where the feeders and waterers are) is counted in the above table.
However, the larger the amount of space you give them, the happier they will be. If you choose to give them less space than this then you may end up with problems such as feather pecking.
| Sq ft/bird inside | Sq ft/bird outside | |
| Large Chickens (sussex, wyandotte) | 2 | 10 |
| Laying hens (leghorns, hybrids) | 1.5 | 8 |
| Bantams (serama, dutch, apanese, diminuative breeds) | 1 | 4 |
Only usable floor space (i.e. not where the feeders and waterers are) is counted in the above table.
However, the larger the amount of space you give them, the happier they will be. If you choose to give them less space than this then you may end up with problems such as feather pecking.
Coop Types
My Coop
This is my coop. My two standard size chickens stay in it all day, although it can hold three quite happily.. They aren't allowed to free-range because of predators. The coop is about 3'x3' plus nesting boxes and the run is about 12'x3'. There are several advantages to building the coop up off the ground;
1. Gives the chickens more space in a confined area
2. Stays dry so they always have a dustbathe available.
3. Rats and mice don't like to live under there as it is too high off the ground and they will feel exposed.
4. If you are in an area with hawks then it gives them an extra place to hide under.
5. I don't have to bend down to clean it out, saving muddy knees and backache!
This is my coop. My two standard size chickens stay in it all day, although it can hold three quite happily.. They aren't allowed to free-range because of predators. The coop is about 3'x3' plus nesting boxes and the run is about 12'x3'. There are several advantages to building the coop up off the ground;
1. Gives the chickens more space in a confined area
2. Stays dry so they always have a dustbathe available.
3. Rats and mice don't like to live under there as it is too high off the ground and they will feel exposed.
4. If you are in an area with hawks then it gives them an extra place to hide under.
5. I don't have to bend down to clean it out, saving muddy knees and backache!
My Ark
This is my ark (called chicken tractors in the USA). I built it by myself and is my carpentry masterpiece. I also did it on a bit of a budget. It cost me £8. All apart from the frame, chicken wire, nails and hinges is recycled, mainly from when the neighbours were getting a new kitchen put in. The ends can be removed and then it folds. It is only suitable for use for a couple of hours every few days in the summer so they can get out of the coop and eat some grass in safety. Sorry for the appalling pic quality, this was done on my old camera.
This is my ark (called chicken tractors in the USA). I built it by myself and is my carpentry masterpiece. I also did it on a bit of a budget. It cost me £8. All apart from the frame, chicken wire, nails and hinges is recycled, mainly from when the neighbours were getting a new kitchen put in. The ends can be removed and then it folds. It is only suitable for use for a couple of hours every few days in the summer so they can get out of the coop and eat some grass in safety. Sorry for the appalling pic quality, this was done on my old camera.
Eglu
The eglu is an easy to clean coop made of plastic. It is small and overpriced (£395 with chickens or £360 without) but fashionable (it has been credited with bringing large numbers of city keepers to the hobby) and has a good customer support team. In my opinion it's only suitable for two or three bantams, although they say it can be used for up to three standards. It can be seen at www.omlet.co.uk. New! The eglu is now available in the US at www.omlet.us for the princely sum of $760 with chickens or $740 without. You can also get an eglu for rabbits, and a version for ducks is also planned.
The eglu is an easy to clean coop made of plastic. It is small and overpriced (£395 with chickens or £360 without) but fashionable (it has been credited with bringing large numbers of city keepers to the hobby) and has a good customer support team. In my opinion it's only suitable for two or three bantams, although they say it can be used for up to three standards. It can be seen at www.omlet.co.uk. New! The eglu is now available in the US at www.omlet.us for the princely sum of $760 with chickens or $740 without. You can also get an eglu for rabbits, and a version for ducks is also planned.
Converting a Shed to a Coop
One way to build your own coop is to buy a garden shed at a place like www.diy.com (UK) and add some internal nesting boxes, perches and a pophole. If bird flu does come, although my belief is that it is all a scare story, and we are forced to keep our chickens in during the migrating season then this could be a good option.
One way to build your own coop is to buy a garden shed at a place like www.diy.com (UK) and add some internal nesting boxes, perches and a pophole. If bird flu does come, although my belief is that it is all a scare story, and we are forced to keep our chickens in during the migrating season then this could be a good option.
Coops That Don't Look Like Coops
Some people have designed their coops so that they look nothing like coops. Sometimes it is done out of necessity, like the coop shown. This coop was made by Cezanne (www.cezannesgarden.com) because chickens are outlawed in her city, The aim of this coop is to make any passers by think it is a children's playhouse. Others do it purely for fun.
Some people have designed their coops so that they look nothing like coops. Sometimes it is done out of necessity, like the coop shown. This coop was made by Cezanne (www.cezannesgarden.com) because chickens are outlawed in her city, The aim of this coop is to make any passers by think it is a children's playhouse. Others do it purely for fun.
Stable conversion
Some people have moved onto a property that has horse stables, but they either have no interest in horses or not enough horses to fill them all. A stable is quite easy to convert into a chicken coop, as, much like a garden shed, all it needs is a pophole, perches and nestboxes.
Photo courtesy of Rob in WA from BYC message board
Some people have moved onto a property that has horse stables, but they either have no interest in horses or not enough horses to fill them all. A stable is quite easy to convert into a chicken coop, as, much like a garden shed, all it needs is a pophole, perches and nestboxes.
Photo courtesy of Rob in WA from BYC message board
Run
A run is almost a half-way house between 'barn' and 'free range' chickens. It protects them from predators and your garden and veggie patch from the chickens!
A roof over your run is a very good idea, because a solid one is biosecure (so long as the mesh is small enough to stop other animals such as wild birds getting in), and even just a chicken wire one will protect your chickens from airborne predators such as hawks.
Biosecure run
Photo courtesy of
A roof over your run is a very good idea, because a solid one is biosecure (so long as the mesh is small enough to stop other animals such as wild birds getting in), and even just a chicken wire one will protect your chickens from airborne predators such as hawks.
Biosecure run
Photo courtesy of
House Chickens
I feel that we ought to give a mention here to chickens that live inside people houses.
Why?
Some house chickens have come inside during an illness and never quite wanted to go back outside with the riff-raff again. A person I know lives in a city where, if her chickens are outside, they are classed as livestock, and if they are inside they are pets. Others know that chickens are just plain illegal in their town and don't want to risk having them outdoors where neighbours can complain. Many say that it is great having a chicken inside, and apparently they love to watch TV!
How?
How, I hear you ask, do you stop them pooping inside the house? Well, the lovely people at www.chickendiapers.com have invented chicken diapers. They work by catching the poo in a pouch at the back. This can be kept clean by using part of a sanitary towel. However, you have to check that your hen hasn't laid an egg in there! Overnight, they are normally put in a puppy cage or similar.
Photos courtesy of Ken and Gail
Why?
Some house chickens have come inside during an illness and never quite wanted to go back outside with the riff-raff again. A person I know lives in a city where, if her chickens are outside, they are classed as livestock, and if they are inside they are pets. Others know that chickens are just plain illegal in their town and don't want to risk having them outdoors where neighbours can complain. Many say that it is great having a chicken inside, and apparently they love to watch TV!
How?
How, I hear you ask, do you stop them pooping inside the house? Well, the lovely people at www.chickendiapers.com have invented chicken diapers. They work by catching the poo in a pouch at the back. This can be kept clean by using part of a sanitary towel. However, you have to check that your hen hasn't laid an egg in there! Overnight, they are normally put in a puppy cage or similar.
Photos courtesy of Ken and Gail
Coop Features
Nestboxes
A nestbox is where your hens lay eggs and go broody. It should be kept clean to prevent eggs getting dirty.
There are several options:
1. Metal, wood or rubbermaid container?
2. If your hens have an egg-eating problem, then you can get roll-away nestboxes.
3. Outside or inside? Inside is much better, as the eggs are less likely to freeze and therefore crack during winter months, it is darker, discouraging egg-eating and encouraging laying in the nestbox.
4. Multi-tier or single tier?
5. Internal or external? Yes, this is different to outside or inside. Internal nestboxes just sit inside the coop, and can only be accessed by going into the coop. External nestboxes poke out of the coop, giving you easy access.
You should have one nestbox for every three to five hens.
Internal Nestboxes
Photo courtesy of www.wickedbass.com/chickens
External nestboxes
Hens making use of their nestboxes!
Photo courtesy of Kelly from NY
A nestbox is where your hens lay eggs and go broody. It should be kept clean to prevent eggs getting dirty.
There are several options:
1. Metal, wood or rubbermaid container?
2. If your hens have an egg-eating problem, then you can get roll-away nestboxes.
3. Outside or inside? Inside is much better, as the eggs are less likely to freeze and therefore crack during winter months, it is darker, discouraging egg-eating and encouraging laying in the nestbox.
4. Multi-tier or single tier?
5. Internal or external? Yes, this is different to outside or inside. Internal nestboxes just sit inside the coop, and can only be accessed by going into the coop. External nestboxes poke out of the coop, giving you easy access.
You should have one nestbox for every three to five hens.
Internal Nestboxes
Photo courtesy of www.wickedbass.com/chickens
External nestboxes
Hens making use of their nestboxes!
Photo courtesy of Kelly from NY
Perches
Perches are important for the chickens to sleep on. Showing their jungle heritage, they perch as they would in the wild, with tree subsitutes. Perches can be made of many things:
1. 2"x4" wood, with the 4" side up, top two edges rounded off with sandpaper, thinner for bantams
2. A wooden ladder, put horizontally across the coop.
3. Branches. However, this is not too brilliant, as the bark will lift off, giving a perfect place for red mite and other nasty bugs to hide.
Perches should not be round, as then the hens will not be able to stay upright, and will end up sliding round, looking like bats.
All perches should be the same hight, or there will be scrapping every night over who gets the highest perch.
You can have it lower than this, like I have, but this is the optimum height. Perches should be lower (perhaps 1ft) for particularly heavy breeds such as Jersey Giant and the Brahma.
Space requirements
Nestboxes should not be higher than the perches or they will sleep in them and fowl them, causing mucky eggs.
Photo courtesy of ALBALD1, from BYC message board
Perches are important for the chickens to sleep on. Showing their jungle heritage, they perch as they would in the wild, with tree subsitutes. Perches can be made of many things:
1. 2"x4" wood, with the 4" side up, top two edges rounded off with sandpaper, thinner for bantams
2. A wooden ladder, put horizontally across the coop.
3. Branches. However, this is not too brilliant, as the bark will lift off, giving a perfect place for red mite and other nasty bugs to hide.
Perches should not be round, as then the hens will not be able to stay upright, and will end up sliding round, looking like bats.
All perches should be the same hight, or there will be scrapping every night over who gets the highest perch.
You can have it lower than this, like I have, but this is the optimum height. Perches should be lower (perhaps 1ft) for particularly heavy breeds such as Jersey Giant and the Brahma.
Space requirements
Nestboxes should not be higher than the perches or they will sleep in them and fowl them, causing mucky eggs.
| Length/ layer hen | 15 cm |
| Width | 3" |
| Depth |
2" |
| Height |
2' off the ground |
Photo courtesy of ALBALD1, from BYC message board
Pophole (a chicken's door)
This is necessary if the chickens are to get outside. It should be 12"x12", or bigger if you have 35+ hens in the same coop.They can be pull-up (like a portcullis on a castle), drop down (to create a ramp, pictured) or like a regular door. For bantams, a cat flab which is lockable can be used.
Drop down pophole open
Photo courtesy of PawsPlus from BYC message board
Drop down pophole shut
Photo courtesy of Pawsplus from BYC message board
Pull-up pophole. The little box at the top is an auto-pophole-opener, which works by sensing light and dark
Photo courtesy of Nmantime from BYC message board
This is necessary if the chickens are to get outside. It should be 12"x12", or bigger if you have 35+ hens in the same coop.They can be pull-up (like a portcullis on a castle), drop down (to create a ramp, pictured) or like a regular door. For bantams, a cat flab which is lockable can be used.
Drop down pophole open
Photo courtesy of PawsPlus from BYC message board
Drop down pophole shut
Photo courtesy of Pawsplus from BYC message board
Pull-up pophole. The little box at the top is an auto-pophole-opener, which works by sensing light and dark
Photo courtesy of Nmantime from BYC message board
Feeders and Waterers
All feeders and drinkers should be kept inside to minimise disease risk (particularly from bird flu) and to keep the food dry, as well as minimising consumption of your food by wild birds (it can get quite expensive feeding all those wild birds!)
Chickens need to eat and drink, and we must provide them with it. We do this in feeders and waterers. It is a good idea to keep them off the ground, either suspended, on a block of wood or on a shelf. This is for several reasons:
1. Bedding is not kicked in, preventing access to the feed or water and fouling it.
2. Chickens cannot poo in it.
3. If it is kept at back height, it can prevent 'billing out' which is a nasty habit involving using the beak to flick food out of the feeder, wasting it.
All waterers where chicks have access should have a thin area of water (up to around 2cm) so that the chicks cannot fall in / climb in and drown.
Both can be made of several materials:
Plastic
I use these, and I like being able to just look at it and tell how much food/water is left. These are easily obtainable at pet stores (usually sold as aviary feeders) and are fairly cheap. Some come with a place to put a hook on the top, so that they can be suspended from the ceiling. They will need replacing every few years, as they can crack, particularly if dropped on a hard surface such as concrete. However, this should not put you off.
Galvanised
These feeders are made of galvanised metal, and are very long lasting and durable. However, they are relatively expensive, and you cannot see the level of food. They should not be used with Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) as the acetic acid has a tendency to corrode the metal, causing the chickens to ingest sometimes dangerously large amounts of the metal.
Piglet feeders
This may seem unlikely, but these wall-mounted feeders can work surprisingly well. Feeders can be made of galvanised metal, or homemade versions can be made of wood. The advantage of these is that you can simply add more food at the top and it will drop down, it will hold a large amount of food, as well as being low-maintenance. Not suitable for water.
Troughs
I do not like troughs, even for chicks, for the following reasons:
1. They can easily be pooed in, which is not healthy
2. They can be tipped over
3. They can be rained in (although feeders and waterers should always be indoors anyway)
4. Chicks can fall in and drown
5. They take up a relatively large amount of floorspace for the amount of feed that they contain.
Chickens need to eat and drink, and we must provide them with it. We do this in feeders and waterers. It is a good idea to keep them off the ground, either suspended, on a block of wood or on a shelf. This is for several reasons:
1. Bedding is not kicked in, preventing access to the feed or water and fouling it.
2. Chickens cannot poo in it.
3. If it is kept at back height, it can prevent 'billing out' which is a nasty habit involving using the beak to flick food out of the feeder, wasting it.
All waterers where chicks have access should have a thin area of water (up to around 2cm) so that the chicks cannot fall in / climb in and drown.
Both can be made of several materials:
Plastic
I use these, and I like being able to just look at it and tell how much food/water is left. These are easily obtainable at pet stores (usually sold as aviary feeders) and are fairly cheap. Some come with a place to put a hook on the top, so that they can be suspended from the ceiling. They will need replacing every few years, as they can crack, particularly if dropped on a hard surface such as concrete. However, this should not put you off.
Galvanised
These feeders are made of galvanised metal, and are very long lasting and durable. However, they are relatively expensive, and you cannot see the level of food. They should not be used with Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) as the acetic acid has a tendency to corrode the metal, causing the chickens to ingest sometimes dangerously large amounts of the metal.
Piglet feeders
This may seem unlikely, but these wall-mounted feeders can work surprisingly well. Feeders can be made of galvanised metal, or homemade versions can be made of wood. The advantage of these is that you can simply add more food at the top and it will drop down, it will hold a large amount of food, as well as being low-maintenance. Not suitable for water.
A homemade wooden piglet-style feeder
Photo courtesy of Squishy0024 from BYC message board
Galvanised piglet feeder
Photo courtesy of Terri Haute
This feeder can be made to any size you like, although I would recommend more holes around the base than thisPhoto courtesy of Squishy0024 from BYC message board
Galvanised piglet feeder
Photo courtesy of Terri Haute
Barrel Feeders
A homemade option for those with a large number of chickens. A plastic barrel is taken, several holes cut around the bottom, a circular tray larger than the base of the barrel is placed underneath the barrel. The lid of the barrel is kept to keep chickens out of the top, making sure it can be taken off to add more feed. Feed then comes down, as with the plastic feeders above. These are extremely cheap or even free to make, if you have the materials. Not suitable for water.
Photo courtesy of Edster951 from BYC message board
A homemade option for those with a large number of chickens. A plastic barrel is taken, several holes cut around the bottom, a circular tray larger than the base of the barrel is placed underneath the barrel. The lid of the barrel is kept to keep chickens out of the top, making sure it can be taken off to add more feed. Feed then comes down, as with the plastic feeders above. These are extremely cheap or even free to make, if you have the materials. Not suitable for water.
Photo courtesy of Edster951 from BYC message board
Troughs
I do not like troughs, even for chicks, for the following reasons:
1. They can easily be pooed in, which is not healthy
2. They can be tipped over
3. They can be rained in (although feeders and waterers should always be indoors anyway)
4. Chicks can fall in and drown
5. They take up a relatively large amount of floorspace for the amount of feed that they contain.
Bedding
You need to put bedding down in the coop to absorb moisture and help it stay smelling better. It also gives your chickens something to scratch around in.
The following types of bedding are for adult chickens, not chicks. Bedding for chicks is dealt with on the raising chicks page.
Wood shavings
Wood shavings are, as I see it, the best type of bedding around. It doesn't harbour mites, it doesn't matt and it doesn't go mouldy easily.
I buy dust-extracted shavings from the local sawmill. I've seen exactly the same thing being delivered to the pet shop for use with rabbits, guinea pigs and other more traditional household pets. It costs me about £6 for a 1x0.5x0.5m bale of compacted wood shavings. These last me about 6-8 months, so it's a lot cheaper than buying from a pet store, where I'd probably be spending £3 a month on exactly the same stuff.
Note: Sawdust is not suitable because it can cause respiratory problems. Make sure you don't get cedar shavings as they are poisonous.
Straw
Some people use it, but I don't because there are small holes down the middle of each bit. These are a perfect hiding place for mites and all manner of parasites that you don't want living on your chickens. It also has a tendency to conceal dampness and mould, which can cause respiratory disease.
Hay
Works fairly well as a bedding material, particularly in the nestboxes. However, it has a tendency to conceal dampness, just like straw, and it is becoming very hard to find (for a variety of reasons) in some areas of the US.
Shredded Paper
Junk mail that has been put through a paper shredder can work well in the nestboxes. However, I wouldn't recommend it as a bedding for the rest of the coop because it's not very absorbant.
The following types of bedding are for adult chickens, not chicks. Bedding for chicks is dealt with on the raising chicks page.
Wood shavings
Wood shavings are, as I see it, the best type of bedding around. It doesn't harbour mites, it doesn't matt and it doesn't go mouldy easily.
I buy dust-extracted shavings from the local sawmill. I've seen exactly the same thing being delivered to the pet shop for use with rabbits, guinea pigs and other more traditional household pets. It costs me about £6 for a 1x0.5x0.5m bale of compacted wood shavings. These last me about 6-8 months, so it's a lot cheaper than buying from a pet store, where I'd probably be spending £3 a month on exactly the same stuff.
Note: Sawdust is not suitable because it can cause respiratory problems. Make sure you don't get cedar shavings as they are poisonous.
Straw
Some people use it, but I don't because there are small holes down the middle of each bit. These are a perfect hiding place for mites and all manner of parasites that you don't want living on your chickens. It also has a tendency to conceal dampness and mould, which can cause respiratory disease.
Hay
Works fairly well as a bedding material, particularly in the nestboxes. However, it has a tendency to conceal dampness, just like straw, and it is becoming very hard to find (for a variety of reasons) in some areas of the US.
Shredded Paper
Junk mail that has been put through a paper shredder can work well in the nestboxes. However, I wouldn't recommend it as a bedding for the rest of the coop because it's not very absorbant.
Links
http://www.omlet.co.uk
They make some really funky looking coops called the Eglu. Eglus are made of brightly coloured plastic and look rather like an Apple Mac moniter. They have now extended their range to include chickens, rabbits and (coming soon!) ducks. My opinion of them is that they are overpriced and undersized - only really suitable for bantams, but they say otherwise. You can now buy them in the USA.
http://www.backyardchickens.com/coopdesigns.html
Lots of different coop designs, submitted by people from all over the world. You can submit your too, by emailing the owner.
http://www.forshamcottagearks.co.uk
Some more sensible looking chicken coops but they also do housing for other domestic animals. Rather small yet pricey. Now available in US. Visit http://www.forshamusa.com
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/thecitychicken/tractors.html
A site with lots of pictures of chicken arks but no words or blueprints.
They make some really funky looking coops called the Eglu. Eglus are made of brightly coloured plastic and look rather like an Apple Mac moniter. They have now extended their range to include chickens, rabbits and (coming soon!) ducks. My opinion of them is that they are overpriced and undersized - only really suitable for bantams, but they say otherwise. You can now buy them in the USA.
http://www.backyardchickens.com/coopdesigns.html
Lots of different coop designs, submitted by people from all over the world. You can submit your too, by emailing the owner.
http://www.forshamcottagearks.co.uk
Some more sensible looking chicken coops but they also do housing for other domestic animals. Rather small yet pricey. Now available in US. Visit http://www.forshamusa.com
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/thecitychicken/tractors.html
A site with lots of pictures of chicken arks but no words or blueprints.
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