Australian Pekin Breeders

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As some people say Pekin Bantams is one of the hardest breeds to show. It isn’t really that hard to keep them clean or get them clean if you do things correct.

From hatching its always good though keeps them on small wire so pooh can drop through in brooder to Sawdust, Straw or even shell grit. When out side for the first time I find having a box for them on the floor with a hole cut out makes a good place for the chicks to go to keep warm you might have to put them in box of a night time for the start, fill the bottom of the cage with sawdust and or shell grit change every so often.

 When older make sure the birds have a perch at about 30cm or more off the ground  and have the cage shelled and covered in so no dust wind and sun can get on them. Have the floor covered with a good materiel that’s soft and clean which can be changed every so often.

Washing

Have 2  rinsing buckets or water ready and a bucket to wash the chook in.

 In the 1^st rinse water squish half a lemon in the water this takes the yellowish tinge off the birds.

In the 2^nd rinse have about 5 drops of bluo it’s a laundry product to bring g the color out.

 When washing the bird use wool wash laundry detergent its better for the bird and keeps the feathers in better condition.

 After that softly pat the excess water off the bird, then blow dry the bird with medium heat and then put in small wire cage on grass to bring out shine and colour for a while and keep in clean litter pens .

 When preparing to show it’s good to have small cages for the birds with sawdust, shell grit or wire cage bottoms so no unwanted waste will stick to them.

At a show its always good for your bird to stand out to a judge. One thing when they walk past the birds for a first look is a stand out bird  a red come always is a standout in shows, at shows I put a bit of baby oil on my fingertips and rub it in.

 Its always nice to come home with a prize ticket and if mabey a champion

 Hope this helps.

 Ryan Dawson                                 


  Training your fowls
everyone has there own tried and proven methods and i am not saying mine are better but this may be helpful for beginners

Training your fowl can be one of the most important parts in preparing a bird for a show, and although a lot of judges may not admit it to it, they may look differently upon birds which are flighty and jump all over the pavilion compared to a bird which comes to the front of the cage calmly to be examined by the judge.

Training your birds can start from when they are one day old. This is just a simple case of handling them every now and than so that they get used to being around humans and realize there is nothing to fear (that is unless they end up on the chopping block).

Training does not have to start at this age but can make it easier in the long run. If they were not handled at day olds which can quiet often be impossible when you breed hundreds of chickens a year, than another little trick is to hand feed them every now and than allowing them to come up to you and just gently being stroked on their head and down their backs.

Some may even allow you to pick them up but not always and his should not be done if it causes discomfort to them.

The next step in training your birds is when they are older and about a month away from being entered into a show.

For a pullet this could be 9 months of age and up and a cockerel closer to 11months and over.

For this step you will need some training pens a similar size to the pens that they will be exhibited in at the show.

The birds are placed into their own individual cages with food and water.

They may panic at first but after a few hours or so should come down considerably although every bird is different and will settle down in their own time.

Make sure the cages are in a safe place free from drafts, vermin such as rats and mice, predators and also the weather.

The cages would be best situated at a height at which they can be easily removed without to much effort once again similar to at the show.

The cages need to be dry and also have a good amount of sunlight in the morning although this may not be a great idea for white birds which get sun stained easily.

Makes sure there is a good amount of wood shavings or similar on the cage floor and that it is cleaned regularly.

After a couple of days after when they have settled in slowly walk up to the cage and remove them as though you were the judge. Practice spreading their wings so that they are used to it when the judge comes around on the day.

If it is a breed other than the Pekin than you may wish to use a judging stick but this will not be discussed here as a judging stick should never be used on a Pekin.

Treats can also be given to the birds when you walk up to the cage to encourage them to come over.

While all this is happening over the few weeks they are in the cages prior to the show they should be kept clean with regular washes.

Feeding is also important at this time to keep them in condition a good feeding program should be in place for this to give them their required vitamins and minerals etc.

If the birds start to look as though they may have been cooped up for too long than they can be let out onto a nice fresh patch of grass for a few minutes a day so long as they are closely watched. And also remember not to let two roosters out at once.

If this GUIDE is followed than reasonable success can be hoped for, although this will not make up for the birds overall exhibition quality e.g. type and colouring.

Mark Pollard

N.S.W

Australia

December 2005

                            Breeding Buff Pekins

Line 1                                                            Line 2

White Cockerel x Buff Pullet                1^st year  Buff Cockerel x  White Pullet

Brother x Sister                                       2^nd year  Brother x Sister

Brother x Sister                                       3^rd year  Brother x Sister        

Best Cockerel line1 x Best pullet line2 4^th year  Best Cockerel line2 x Best Pullet Line1

This was created By Keith Dubber Australia

This is a system of bringing in new blood to the stock

There is a chance of a bad selection blunder but this is minimal but can be corrected with perseverance.

Remember type first, feather quality nest and then combined withunderfluff then comes colour last. Using the formula you’re sure for success.

When looking for colour look for a medium orande colour and as close to a one colour shade. A blackfeather intails ok for breeding. Most Birds moult out any black after 1st year.

hope you find this helpful

What you feed your birds can be the most important thing you do for them, wether it be for showing, breeding, laying or just as a backyard pet feed is the most important for them. Ill start off with showing now I will refer back to the old term of “what you put in is what you get out.” This applies in feeding your birds because the better the feed your birds the better the bird will perform at the show. The recommended protein level is 15%.

This can be achieved very easily by feeding your birds a simple commercial layers pellet.

Enhancing the colour of yellow legged birds can be done at least two easy ways one way which is a bi slower than the other is grass. Having your show birds run on the grass during the day is a nice, easy way to achieve yellow legs but may take a couple of months. The second way to enhance the leg colour is to feed them corn or otherwise known as maize. This may be a bit more expensive than grass but is a bit quicker taking around a month and easier if you don’t have access to lots of fresh grass all the time.

Now for the birds plumage condition. Molasses can be added to the water for feather quality and is especially good for black birds as it is said to help with the sheen.

I know of many other ways to do this but to me this is a very easy way of doing it and it can sometimes be bought from supermarkets.

Now for the next one, breeding. Now breeding birds’ nutrition may be very important but it is not difficult to get right. The recommended protein level may vary according to different people but I think 17% is a good level but a little higher would not hurt. No other special feeding is required for breeders but every once and a while a treat can be given to them, after all they are the birds you are relying on giving you your next “Champion Bird of Show.”     

Now onto the layers. The laying hens are not too hard to look after, all they need is 15% protein and a bit of shell grit on the side for calcium to make hard egg shells and they will be happy. But if you want you can give them corn for yellow yolks although this is an unproven fact.

Last but not least are backyard pets. These are very simple all they need is a bit of layer pellets and they will be happy and healthy.

This is just a simple article written for the simple reason of resource. I feel that there are not enough articles out there to help people and I hope that this will help someone.

Ryan Dawson  

An article from The Pekin Handbook of Australia
Written by Bruce Treloar
The Mottle variety is one of the most attractive of all the Pekin Family and has queit a large following in overseas countries.
unfortunately many breeders in this country have started the breed than got into trouble producing colour which was completely lost.
I have heard reports that some fair specimens have been here but no one has really fixed the Mottle colour. Now and than we see a Black Pekin showing various amounts of white in the footings and wings but this is a long way from Mottle.
If anyone takes the trouble to read the British Poultry standards they will see that the colour should be "evenly mottled all over". This leaves alot to the imagination as do many things appearing in that particular publication. There is no suggestion of what shape the White tip should be so we can take in any shape is ok providing they are evenly marked from head to feet.
The size of marking and shape is once again to the discretion of the breeders and judges.
This chould not affect this variety in shw competition as it gives the breeders and judges more chance of getting a mottle up for top awards.
This will no doubt suit myself and anyone else who wishes to take on this variety. First and foremost the variety will not suffur from divided opinions abou colour. I repeat once again, the standard requires them just to be evenly mottled.
The V-shape white tip as seen in Anconas is okay and so would be the round moon shaped markings as seen in the spangled varieties.
However, when breeding Mottles some come through with V-tips and some approaching te moon shaped tip.
The white tip should be clear enough in so as to appear quiet white from outside the pen. When examined however some small black marks will be een in ths white area. This Can not be avoided and will be present in the very best marked specimens. From outside the pen they should look contrasty in black and white and not show heavy white markings which would make the bird look white wih black markings. They should be gay enough to show a fair sized white tip on a black( green sheened) ground colour. To create the effect of the white tip could be like on Anconca or even going further than the size of a three-penny peice.
Personaly i like the medium sized markings which are a little gayer than the Ancona.
before anyone sets out to produce thi variety some knowledge of the variety is necessary. To produce the Mottle feather pattern there are three colours, Black, White, and just enough red to make the Black and White seregate.
Mottling is alos recessive to black or recessive White.
In other words if we mate a Black or a White Pekin to  Mottle the results will be all Blacks. These Black birds carrying the mottle factor are potential Mottle breeders and when mated amongst themselves can be relied upon to produe some mottled chickens.
To illsutrate how this takes place we first start with a Mottle and a Black, and from these we have chickens whose genetical makeup will be Black and Mottle. I will apply the symbol N to denote Black mo for Mottle. N is capital as Black is dominant. mo is written in lowercase for Mottle which is recessive.
Note that in the second generation we have three different genotypes and only two different phenotypes.
if say 100 chickens were hatched we would end up with about 25 mottles. These mottles when mated among themselves will, in most cases, breed true to colour.
Probably a better way to illustrate the F2 results as expectations with chickens reared.
Notice the combination and segregation which is practicaly a  complete illustration of Mendel's theory.
As previously mentioned Mottle relies on the presence of Black, White and enough red to segregate. I originaly mated a black and a buff together and produced a form of Black Reds over which a White male was mated. I hoped to get Mottle in this way but apparently the amount of red was incorrect. If anyone wishes to have ago at this than always use the Black red female and White male. black red over White will not produce Mottle,  white male must always be used. As I did not get any mottle chickens after several tries i procured a mottle sport from a pen of Black Leghorns. This female was the basis of my present mottles which have been produced over the last seven years using White, Black White and Blue bred Blacks. During this time the usual colours ahve appeared such as Black, White, Mottle, Reddish looking spangles with a black tip on each feather and greyish blue splashed wheatons.
at present the Mottle are breeding quiet true though Blacks are being used to improve type when colours will allow.
These red spangle females i feel would produce Mottle from a white male.
These white males will produce a small number of mottles if mated to black females. ideal birds to start this experiment of mottle breeding would be as follows:
male: BLACK PEKIN - low set extensive abundance of losse soft wide feather, small comb, being white in undercolour, extra good footings and centre te feathering, high tail carriage and short backed, the softness and looseness of feather is essential an if you can find a maleor female with wings so loose that the wing hangs open well all the better. By this i mean that when walking around the bird can not hold its wing closed i.e the primaries are well up where the wing should be. This will give the impression of the wings held like a half open fan. in other words the looser and softer the bird, the better. If you can, try to select a male that is preponent, in other words, amale that has a proven breeding record when mated to a variety of females and produced good quality young stock.
Female: ANCONA - The Ancona used in the first cross should be as soft as possible and quiet gay in colour, legs as short as available, comb straight and as low as you can find.
From time to time we find ourselves hatching a few crossbreds for broody replacements but i have found that mottles fill their place as broodies admirably.
When pullets start to lay than put a couple of settings down straight away and you will find it is possible to rear three generations in two years. With this excersize you will get a greater concentration of Pekin characteristics in a shorter time. It is remarkable how the ancona type disapears so quickly.After five backmatings to the Black have been made than the mottles are really starting to look like class.
This pof course will take you ten years, breeding one generation per year.
If you breed cuckoos, Buffs, or Whites, than this article would help you alot to upgrade these colours. All the colours we have in Pekins help one another and while we have excellent Blacks than the whites will be improved.
The whites and the blacks improve the blues. The whites improve the buffs. The blacks and whites improe the cuckoos and so on.
Colour is extremely interesting and there are many attractive varieties yet to be produced. Silver pencilled, Silver spangled gold laced and many others would make worthy contributions to the Pekin family. Mr Warren Dickson is well on the way with Partridge which are very attractive.
If i have started anoyone on breeding a new variety I wll fell rewarded for the effort writing the article.






              

Coccidiosis is caused by a number of different species of coccidoa, which are members of the simple, single celled animal form call protozoa. Coccidia damage the wall in different parts of he intestine and caeca.
 Fowls are affected more than other species of birds, with toung birds being most vulnerable.
TWO FORMS OCCUR
Caecal coccidiosis is mostly found in chickens up to eight weeks of age.
Affected birds havea  dirty appearance and do not eat, and stand with eyes closed, wings hanging down and feathers ruffled. In sever cases, pure blood is passed in the droppings. Caecal coccidiosis is usually acute and results in mortalities up to 50% unless treated immediately.
Intestinal coccidiosis is most likely to occur between six and sixteen weeks of age. intestinal and caecal forms of coccidiosis can occur together.
The intestinal form is more difficult to detect and usualy more insiduous.
It can still cause a heavy economic loss,often with a low but steady mortality.
Birds eat but lose weight and have a staggered gait. Their head feathers are raised, and they have a dirty, ruffled appearance because they do not feel like preening. A slight, whitish soiling is present around the vent.
DIAGNOSIS
definite diagnosis can be confirmed only by a laboratory examination.
METHOD OF SPREAD
Coccidiosis is transmitted through bird droppings containing fertile coccidia eggs. the eggs need moisture ad warmth before they can go through the next stage of the life cycle and become infective. This stage is than picked up when birds scratch and peck in the litter, and so infect the intestine , starting the destructive stages of the life cycle  and causing the disease.
PREVENTION
By management - It is better to acheive prevention by good management than to be forced to rely on drugs to cure an outbreak. Because coccidia require moisture to become infective, floor litter must be kept dry.
Ventilation must be good, and overcrowding should be avoided.
Imunity is developed after ingestion of the organism and a partial completion of its life cycle within the intestine. If the orgnaism's challenge develops to far, a disease outbreak will occur. Immunity is temporary and repeated exposure is necessary.
Immunity to one species of coccidoa does not protect poultry from other species.
By medication - Coccidiostats are drugs that are available for use at low rates in feed or water as preventative medication.
coccidiostats are used to help develop immunity by inhibiting a major build up of coccidia and to reduce the challenge to the bird and so prevent outbreaks.
TREATMENT
When coccidiosis has been diagnosed, treatment should be started immediately.
Severeal drugs are available abd the choice will dpend on age and type of flock and the type of coccidia. Whichever drug is used, the maker's instructions must be followed explicity.
Sulpha drugs must not be used in metal drinkers or drinking systems because rustin the system reacts with the chemicals in the drugs rendering them toxic.
Complete reliance must not be placed on medication.
good management, which includes recognition of early signs of trouble, should be constant aim.
The addition of small quantites of hydrated lime help to dry out damp areas in the litter.
PROBLEMS
Investigations have revealed many reasons for outbreaks of coccidiosis:
incorect quantity of coccidiostat used in rations.
Failure to include extra coccidostat during restrictive feeding period for growing pullets.
Withdrawing the coccidiostat too early before immunity has built up.
Leakage from waterers and hose joints providing damp spots in teh floor litter which are ideal for coccidoa.
In treating an outbreak, incorrect concentrations of drugs beign iven and duration of treatments cut short.
Using sulpha drugs with rusty troughs.
Dosage not being re-calculated during hot weather when birds excessively drink.



Author of this article is not known.
Article from the 1981-1982 bantam Club year book 

White Cochin (Pekin)
The Beautiful Bantam
The White Cochin Bantam is not a variety of the Cochin family that is becoming extinct.
The White Cochin together with the Black Cochin are the two most popular varieties of the Cochin family and rate very high in popularity among bantam breeds.
It is not difficult to get good, high quality stock as there are many top breeders.
To know the shape and the general characteristics of the Cochin is very important to successful breeding. The general characteristics of the Cochin male and female are very much alike so the following description in most part applies to both. Head is small, fine and neat with single comb that is neat and small; perfectly straight and erect, well serrated and nicely curved from front to back. The beak rather short but stout and slightly curved. Eyes are bright and large.
Face smooth and fine in texture with wattles long and neatly rounded.
The wattles and earlobes in the male are much larger than in the female.
 Neck is short, full, nicely arched and carried rather forward and furnished with and abundant and rather long hackle reaching well to the back.
Back short and broad, increasing in width to the saddle which should be very full, rise well from between the shoulders and be furnished with long soft feathers. Wings are small, short and neatly tucked up with ends hidden by the saddle. The tail is most important in making the ideal Cochin shape. A poor tail means a poor Cochin.
It should be full and abundant with coverts hiding the main tail and the whole tail forms and unbroken curve with the back and saddle.
Breast is broad, deep, full and rounded in appearance.
Thighs are broad, short and well set apart. The hocks should be fully covered with soft feathers that curl around the joint and stand well out.
Legs are short and thick, abundantly covered with soft feathers. Feet and toes strong and straight with the middle and outer toes covered with soft feathers, to the end on each toe.
The plumage is soft, long and abundant. The Cochin has the appearance of a ball of soft feathers and are of a docile nature.
 The eye colour is a reddish bay. The beak, legs and toes are yellow. The comb, face, wattles and ear lobes are bright red. The feathering in all sections is pure white from tip of feather to skin.
Birds should be free from all foreign colours and from brassiness or a creamy colour surface.
 Mos strains of white can be bred from a single mating. Select a male that has good colour and free from any brassy or creamy surface colour, good shape and heavily feathered.
His head points should be near perfect as possible. Mate four or five females that possess ideal type and good colour. From such a mating excellent exhibition cockerels and pullets should result. Good stay white cochins are available and with these the colour problem is solved. Where poor colour is in the strain this can be improved by the introduction of a black Cochin cock and mate to good type and coloured females – white Cochin. Second season mate the best cockerel back to the hens. Careful breeding will eliminate the black. White Cochins must be kept clean and in shaded runs during the hot summer months and especially during and after the moult.
The white feathers like anything else will be affected by the hot sun and there is a change of colour that can not be washed out. Any white bird will get soiled from one moult to the next hence for showing they should be washed twice for the show, the first wash about a month ahead.
White Cochin a grand Bantam.    
   


Article from the May 1997 Fanciers gazette
Autor Unknown