04-9-6: Added much-needed rules for my servers.

04-8-26: Basically finished the Castle guide.  Not much, but I give less of a damn.

04-8-25: Started my Castle guide.

04-8-16: Cleared up some inaccuracies with the Scarey Game 2 guide, as well as added to what is mentioned.

04-8-15: Made a guide to Scarey Game 2.  Enjoy this as well!

04-8-11: Started this section off with my guide to The Sky is Falling.  Enjoy!

This is where I'm going to put my own, rag-tag guides for games on BYOND (http://www.byond.com) or other places.  They will not have perfect information, and will not be perfect.  They will also only be based upon my own experiences and skill.  I do not guarantee that they will be a helpful method for you to do better in your own game, or that you will even bother to read them.  They're here for anyone that may give a damn, so enjoy the read.

So you know I host games often, and you want to play on them.  There's some common sense involved in being allowed to play (but to most on BYOND, it isn't).

Rule #1: Thou shalt not spam (If you don't know what spamming is, get out of my server.  It's common sense.)

Rule #2: Thou shalt act like a decent person (Don't go around telling everyone to fuck themselves, or anything immature like that.)

Rule #3: Thou shalt respect thy host (I (ScouSin) am hosting the game off of my own computer's bandwidth.  In some cases, there are sacrifices I might make so you can enjoy my relatively fast connection (such as playing other games).  So I ask of you not to maliciously lie to me, or insult me.  Common sense really.)

Rule #4: Thou shalt not use loopholes (There will obviously be things that I did not mention in the above rules, or that are specific to the game (example: No bug abusing.))

And lastly, if you don't like me, the game, or my server, then don't play on it.  The way I see it, it doesn't matter how bad you think my server is, there will always be an alternative to playing on it (like not playing on it).

The Sky is Falling (referred to from now on as TSiF), is a fairly popular game at the time of writing this article.  There is a lot of competition involved, whether it is getting a high score, or just trying to be the last one alive.  This simple concept was achieved by the people of BYOND's Immortal Productions (main coder and all is Zi).  Anyway, onto the guide!

Basics Of Gameplay.

In this game, left and right move you left and right respectively, up makes you jump, and down does nothing.  You press the join button to join if the game hasn't started yet, and autojoin automatically makes you join the round upon logging in, assuming it's pre-game.  If you have an object directly under you when a block hits your head, you die for the round (my wording is very important).  Flashing blocks destroy all blocks on the same row as them, when they hit any object, but do not kill you.  Other than flashing blocks, block color is irrelevant.

The host has the ability to change the game's width from 9 to 21, and to enable and disable blocking.  The game's width and blocking as default are 12 and on.  Also as a helpful rule of thumb, most people like to play 21, and sometimes 9.  No matter the width though, most everyone likes blocking, for many reasons.

How To Improve Your game.

Now that you know how the game works, you need to become better.  First important thing to learn is how the blocks work when killing.  If you jump up and hit a block, you will not die unless something is directly under you, whether it is a block that already fell, a block as it is falling, or another player.  This makes escaping narrowly a common thing that you will need to do.

When you jump, you move up four spaces above your current position.  It is a very important fact to learn, because knowing if you can jump over that wall without having to test your height is crucial in the endgame, as it could easily mean death if you are wrong.  Another important fact about jumping is the "Metroid rule".  In Metroid, if you are on a walking terrain (a platform for example), and walk off, you can still jump when in mid-air.  This works here too.  As long as you haven't jumped since the last time you hit something under your feet, you can jump again.

Of course even if you know the most ridiculous of survival methods, there will always be a time where you seem to be doomed.  Regardless of sometimes when this is true, there are some panic buttons you can pull.  For instance, if there is a bunch of blocks coming down at you, in a diagonal fashion, it is possible to hit a high one, keeping it from falling for a split second, and going above one of the lower ones, effectively going above the blocks, to safety.  Another important method is if you are stuck down a hole, and the only thing above you is a block.  Well if you repeatedly jump into the block, you could delay the block long enough for a flashing block somewhere else to destroy it, or even the line clear.

Something that not many people know, is what determine the 4 line clear, every now and then.  Simply put, when the 150 point mark is hit, it happens, and every 50 points after that.  Effectively, because of this the 500 + period is given the name: Endgame, meaning that the terrain is much less important, and blatantly dodging the blocks as they fall is crucial.

Player Interaction.

Any player could be your friend or foe.  Not surpringly enough, most are your foe.  If blocking is on, the game becomes not only a danger by looking for blocks, but a danger where you stand compared to where everyone else stands.  If you are set where there is a block under you, to your right, and to your left, then you are in danger of being stepped on top of, and blocked.  This is bad because the blocker could easily just walk to the left or right off of you at the last minute, killing you.  But this is just the basic case.

When you're in a larger hole, at least two blocks deep, you are actually safer than you would be in a one block deep hole.  This is because if you jump down, and someone jumps down to block you, someone could jump on top of the blocker, to block them too.  If the blocker thinks ahead, they will think twice before going down to block you, although there could always be someone willing to kamikazi to kill you, so be careful.

Granted, if you are stuck in a hole, there will always be that chance that a flashing block may happen, or a clear.  This is why the Endgame is the worst time to block someone, as you will most likely fail.  It also means that anyone who is trapped has a chance of living, even if they're on the bottom of a 4-block deep hole.  But of course even if there's no clears, you could still escape from that, but you gotta be very lucky...

Everyone gets blocked eventually.  Don't let anyone say they haven't been in a situation with several people trapped above them before.  However, it is possible to escape alive.  Let's take for example, I am trapped on the very bottom.  Two people above me also trapped (ZeroCrash and Doh), and the top person able to move to the left or right freely, to escape from death, while keeping the rest of us down here (Game_Hunter).  Should Game_Hunter not be trying to kamikaze, and the blocks are starting to fall around him, so his own safety is being jeopardized, he might jump away, freeing everyone else in the pit, including me (assuming the hole isn't 5 blocks deep).  Another method of luckily escaping, is if Game_Hunter moves, and Doh tries to escape, but fails.  ZeroCrash might jump up, being doh's platform, and killing Doh.  Zero then immediately jumps (because I jumped to keep him up too), fail and die (note that if this happens fast enough, the block should still have a one-block gap off to the side that you can escape from), and I can jump, and make it out.  I have personally only done this with one person above me, and only twice.  But I have seen the top three people in a four block deep hole die, and the bottom one escape.  There's lots of hoping upon what the trapped people above you do, and much luck is required.

Naturally though, if you're paying attention, you won't get blocked too often.  Pre-game is a good place to start blocking people (like if someone helps you in blocking someone at the corner, or three people help you to block someone on the ground).  To prevent being blocked, stay away from the crowds, or the game as you see it could be over before the first block falls.  In the middle of the game however, having high elevation is crucial, as the higher you are, the more amount of people it would take to block you (and the less chance of having to go in a hole for a split second, risking being blocked).

Now that you know about blocking, allow me to explain some fun you can have.  As a simple example, players count as platforms in blocking on matches, so you can jump on them and die while on them easily.  No blocking matches are different.  If you land on someone just right, you can jump off of them, or die off of them just as easily as blocking on matches.  But granted, if you hit someone from the bottom in a no blocking match, they could effectively stuff your jump, ending it prematurely.  In the Endgame, this can be the most dangerous thing.

The master the above tactics and you could easily be getting to the top 10 in the high score tables, or higher.  Practice goes a long way.

A lot of people who play Scarey Game 2 (made by WildBlood) are a little less understanding of how to play.  And personally, I don't blame them.  Learning how to play is the biggest hump for this game, and mastering how to play is also very hard.  Ironically though, I won't explain the basics in this guide, since that would make for a long period of time I would waste on this guide.  Anyway, onto the guide!

What to do: Have a plan set-up pre-game, based upon where you are, mode of play, how many players are playing, and whether or not you are psycho.

Get a set of three items ready for most situations.  I personally take a non-melee attacking weapon, a disorienting weapon, and a healing-type item.

Trust noone.  It is incredibly easy to kill someone without giving a damn whether they're psycho or not.  Treat everyone as if they are out to get you (unless you are in psycho costume next to ANOTHER psycho in costume).

What NOT to do: Use melee killing weapons (i.e. knife, psycho knife) to kill random people.  If you do this and are NOT psycho, then you run the risk of killing another non-psycho, forcing the game to kill you also.  Use a long-range/indirect weapon/method instead.

Go where everyone else is going.  Many people take a chance and go for the drug dart, poison needle, and trip bomb (eastern first floor), and take a chance in not getting them before half the server gets there first.  There's plenty of other places where goodies are hidden (first floor freezer contains nitroglicerine for making ice weapons).

Go into rooms without giving a damn what might be on the other side.  This easily means that you could get glued or hit by a tripbomb before you even know that it is there.

Game's Items/Mechanics.

Many people assume things that just may not be true about the game.  Many common false assumptions include the powers of Speed-X, or where tripbombs can or can't go.  This section will explain each part of the game individually.

Knife: The knife is a basic weapon.  If you are a non-psycho and kill another non-psycho with it, you will get killed by the game.  The knife's attack speed and attack power are at least half that of the psycho knife, so you do not want to use this to go toe to toe with a psycho.  Also note that there is no reason you would want to use this instead of the psycho knife.  I suggest that you only use a knife if you are just about alone with a psycho, and have a method of freezing them in place, that goes beyond that of other weapons you may find.

Psycho Knife: This is in every way better than the knife, and psychos get it upon game start.  This means that you can only attain it after a psychos dies or drops it.  There's not much reason you would want ot discard this weapon.  Will kill you if you ue it as a non-psycho to kill another non-psycho.

Dart (versions: Drug dart, poison dart, and ice dart): The dart alone is useless, as it deals no damage when you hit a target with it (in contrast to Scarey Game: Remake).  Instead, you want to mix something with it to give it features.  The three results of hitting a target with a dart are: Drugging, Poisoning, and freezing respectively.  When you hit a target successfully with a dart, the dart reverts back to a normal dart, so make sure when you hit someone, you have a follow-through plan.

Ketchup: When you use ketchup, you feint death as a DENSE corpse.  I personally find it useless unless you are in a relatively off-placed area at the end of a match, and hope the other players die by their own means.  Most skilled players check all corpses they see in the endgame (and sometimes midgame).

Gasoline: Gasoline is one of the best ways to start traps, as when someone steps on it, they slip a significant distance, at a VERY significant speed.  Gasoline only goes away when lit on fire (yes, it is flammable).

Matches (applies to: Spray-paint can): Matches can be used to light flammable things (such as gasoline), and can be used to make a flamethrower, when mixed with spray-paint.

Spray Paint (versions: Flamethrower): Spray paint temporarily blinds anyone you use it on.  When it is in flamethrower form, it shoots several flames about 4 tiles ahead of you in a straight line, and can be used this way 4 times.  It is great for starting large-scale fires, or blowing up barrels behind walls that hide secret passages.  Not to mention it makes a nice weapon.  Just be careful when moving while you're shooting flames.

Ice Cube Launcher: This relatively well-hidden weapon shoots ice cubes a very far distance ahead of you, which when they hit something that's not a target, bounce all over the place.  This weapon's ice cubes latch onto the target for the rest of the game, regardless of fire encounters.  The ice cubes not only hurt their target, but permanently lower the cap of life of the target.  Ice cubes also increase chances of being frozen by sitting in the freezer and being sprayed at by ice sprayers.  If you know where this weapon is held, it is a great starting weapon to have.  Just remember that a full blast can only kill a victim at full health, not a psycho.

Tripbombs: This is the ultimate weapon in making traps for people.  Soon after you place this, a red line goes across the opposite direction from which it was placed (including diagonally).  The explosion (like TNT) moves 2 tiles away, which means you can trip it and not die, in many cases.  In contrast to popular belief, the train will not trip a tripbomb.  Note that if you use Speed-X to pass through a tripbomb's beam, the explosion will be delayed until the last echo passes the red line.  Meaning you can easily pass by a trip bomb when in Speed-X.  However, this effect is not gained from a Psycho's bloodlust ability, but you can jump over lines using springboards.

Glue (applies to: cannons): The glue is placed very similar to gasoline, and exists for a limited time (although very long).  Anyone who steps on is stuck until it expires.  The only effect glue has is that you cannot be moved, or moved (which is pretty significant).

Speed-X: Possibly the most underrated item in the game.  Speed-X allows about 3 uses before it expires, with each lasting about 30 seconds.  Using a Speed-X means that you will move at ridiculous speeds whichever direction you press, until you hit another direction or object.  Using a Speed-X, you can safely pass tripbombs until the last echo passes the beam, making tripbombs very easy to pass and live through.

Wirecutters: Very basic tool.  You use it to cut wires, so periodically they will shoot electricity, killing anything on them (same effect as frayed wires).  It's only good if you're trying to get luck-kills.

Crossbow (requires bolts): An underrated weapon, due to having to find arrows and load them into the crossbow, which is time consuming, and often not as worth it as many other methods of killing.  When a crossbow bolt hits something that is not a target, it bounces around (and does so very much).  When a target is hit, a bolt is stuck in them, effectively capping their max life permanently.  A very good thing to use in a small space, to give others handicaps.  The flaw of looking for arrows is easily beaten by finding a set of three arrows, grabbing all three, then loading them into the crossbow, which is when you then get the crossbow.  3 bolts is enough to screw up a lot of people, as long as you don't miss, and takes about as much time as getting to the drug darts, and what-not.  Highly underrated.

Bolts (are loaded into crossbow): See crossbow.

TNT (applies to decoy boxes, mixes with other TNT to make bundles (only BYOND Reason members can make bundles)): TNT is properly lit using matches, and when lit, can be picked up and thrown (if it explodes in your inventory, you'll blow up bringing everything in a 5x5 area with you, which is only 2 tiles in all directions, which is the range).  A good mathod of hastily opening secret passages.  Bundles of TNT serve little purpose to me, as they don't do much, just explode repeatedly.

Leaf Blower (versions: Poison blower, plunger gun (only BYOND Reason members can make plunger guns)): Leaf blowers are basically better ways of pushing people, as they don't hurt.  They have about 3 charges.  You can mix a poison needle with a leaf blower to make a poison blower, which is three chances to poison your target (and push him).  A very good trade compared to poison dart or poison still in needle form.  The plunger gun is basically a plunger but the plunger is shot.  When the one plunger is shot, the item is discarded.  The plunger caps the health of its target.

Plunger (applies to leaf blower): Melee weapon which caps the health of what it hits.  Not worth the risk.  (UNCONFIRMED) If you kill your target as a non-psycho, which is also a non-psycho, it kills you too.

Med-Kit: Heals you, but doesn't removed cap-damage.  Quite useful.

Anti-Toxin Kit: Removes drug effects and poison effects.  Often my choice of safety thing to hold.

Cure All (mix med kit and anti toxin kit either way): (UNCONFIRMED) Heals you to full AND undrugs you.

Eyedrops: Cures your sight from fire extinguishers and flashbangs.  Not really very useful, as not many people use fire extinguishers to blind or flashbangs.

Flashbangs: (UNCONFIRMED) Chucks a flashbang out which blinds anyone near the blast except for the thrower.  The blindness last a very long time.

Fire Extinguisher (versions: Ice Sprayer): Underrated ailment causer, the fire extinguisher's shot goes out about 3 tiles and has about 3 charges.  Can be used to put out fires, naturally.  The ice sprayer has 3 charges to freeze anything about 3 tiles in front of you (if you move forward while using this, you WILL get frozen).  If you're only in the blast for a VERY short amount of time, it will only make you colder.  The best disorientating weapon in the hands of a pro.

Decoy (versions: Decoy Mark II): A decoy reproduces a highly underrated decoy, that runs around randomly.  (UNCONFIRMED) A Mark II decoy explodes when it hits someone or otherwise dies.

Vitalus Syrup: (UNCONFIRMED) Being very blunt, this item is crap.  When you drink it, you adopt an uncurable decay similar to poison, while at the same time get a boost of strength in stabbing moves.  The effect of the syrup lasts until you win, or die, so it is only good in the endgame during a stab-off.  And even then, if your opponent runs, you better catch them fast.

Nitroglicerine (applies to: Fire extinguisher, dart, and fire pillar): This alone is useless.

Drug Needle (applies to: Dart): This causes the drug effect, which can easily ruin someone, especially when mixed with being poisoned.

Poison Needle (applies: Dart, leaf blower): This causes the poison effect.  Poisoning basically makes it so someone slowly takes damage, unless they get an anti-toxin kit.  Good to NOT be poisoned in the endgame.  Highly recommended that you mix this with a leaf blower.

Golden Plunger Gun (Golden Plunger Mode only): This shoots out plungers, and has infinite ammo.  When you have this, it is for the most part your best weapon, but many people rely on it beyond other equipment too much (like special darts).

Gadget Boxes (1 and 2 = Spring Board, 1 and 3 = cannon, and 2 and 3 = boulder: Mix with each-other to form a boulder, spring board, or cannon.

Boulder: Stands still until it is pushed or pulled.  Then it moves around, pushing aside moveable objects, and killing what it passes over.  Highly underrated, as it can be a shield, in addition to being a lethal weapon.

Spring board: When walked onto, you jump the direction the arrow points.  Can be rotated, and easily be a good trap object.

Cannon: Useless alone.  When you mix glue with it, it shoots out a white powder (UNCONFIRMED) that glues to the ground what it hits.

Boxes: When destroyed, might contain something.  Usually less trouble than it's worth.

Boom Barrels: When lit up or detonated, explode destroying everything in a 2 tile radius.  Underused as trap items or methods for opening secret passages from the outside.

Fire Pillars (versions: Ice pillars): This stationary, rotatable, detonatable object periodically shoots out flames like a flamethrower.  Little known fact is that you can apply nitroglicerine to it to turn it into an ice pillar for about 3 sprays.  Although it is a cool tool, the fire/ice pillar is almost useless as a weapon.

Many elements in this guide were not mentioned on purpose (anything not mentioned that doesn't have UNCONFIRMED by it).  This is because I want everyone to be better, but not too good (or I'm just lazy).  Thanks for reading.

At the time of this guide, Castle has reached the peak of its hype.  I don't blame the fans either.  This game is basically a remake of Tower Defense games in Warcraft III.  Basically in these games, you place different kinds of towers strategically to stop the forces from reaching the end.  And in these games the point is to get fans to 'need' to beat it, so they replay it until they figure out the strategy to do so.  This is why 'eventually', hype will die down (it has been lowering).

This guide will explain the units and waves.  It will also explain strategies for the four amounts of players if you were to do them ligitimately (no logging out useless players or giving one player money to bulk up until upkeep is needed, etc.)  Note as with all my guides, that this guide will not be concrete, and will not be completed.

Player Conduct.

I can log into just about any game and pinpoint a good range of waves the team will die at, most of the time.  This is because oftentimes teams don't get along, or involve a player that screws up the whole team (yes, just one is all it takes).  I won't spend much time on this section, mostly because like the Proelium commune, I hate the Castle commune.  I hope that the Castle commune plays Castle instead of their homebrewed Zeta and MMX rips.  But either way, this guide will be of little use to the incompetent players who roam Castle.  So with that being said, just one thing I will say to those with open minds and hopes of winning: The people you are playing with are your team, you all have the same goal, so share wisdom and knowledge, or you WILL fail.

Creature Classification.

In this section, I will explain what kinds of waves and enemies you will face, as well as some stat generalizations.  I will also explain basic counters to them.  The stats shown after this message can be viewed by questionmarking the enemies.

Life: How much life they have in respect to...something.  Just how much you should expect at your point in the game.

Speed: How fast they move.  Counters for these often are mages, or using gorillas to halt them, while mages hit the stacked groups.  Some idiots think enemies dodge attacks at a percent chance on speed.  Well they don't, stupids.

Attack: This is how fast they kill gorillas, and damage the door.  Generally this is given to really slow but hard to kill enemies.  But there are some exceptions that will scare newbies.

Armor: Armor reduces non-magic damage done to this enemy.  So naturally you should use magic.  Some idiots think Earth Elementals pass beast armor and not armor, but I can't imagine why it wouldn't pass armor, the rock obviously isn't solid...

Beast Armor: Beast Armor reduces non-hunter damage.  Why only the hunter class pierces it, I don't know.  So like the previous sentence said, use anything in the hunter class to pierce this armor (please don't think netters will hurt the enemy).

Special Armor: Two kinds come to mind.  Ghost and...uh...Necromancer.  Ghost armor is given to ghosts, and means only magic can hurt them, and the 'other' kind is only given to wave 26's necromancers.  Which means anything BUT magic (and gorillas) effects them.

Units.

It's the units in the game.  What do you want from me?

Archers: What can I say...costs 50 gold, has about 7 tiles range (quite long).  You start out with it at 0 proficiency in archery.  Basically, lay four of these down to start the game off.  Generally more powerful than fire mages also, so you may need them for ogres in the beginning.

Blowgunnists: 70 gold, 1 proficiency.  Place it near the start, and it poisons anything it hits permanently.  Poison is weak, and can't kill alone, but it helps more than most think.  Also note, that in contrast to popular idiocy (and since a distant update), it doesn't repoison any enemies (although two blowgunnists can happen to hit the same enemy), so you can poison a lot of enemies with just two blowgunnists.  Poison damage goes up with level.

Spearmen: 100 gold, 7 proficiency.  Basically the most powerful third tier unit (gets better bonuses than lancers, in contrast to what Flikerator said on the forums of Castle).  It is also the most useless one, as later in the game when you have them, everything has beast armor almost.  So in the long run, they're not a win.

Harpoon Cannons: 500 gold, 20 proficiency.  A little more useful in comparison to spearmen for their time.  Basically the most powerful unit in the game (I believe).  It comes with the perk that you may aim it at something.  If you get this, you have a better chance of passing some oversights with beast armor.

Firemages: 70 gold, 1 proficiency.  Firemages (like all other mages except for ice sorceresses) produce splash damage.  Like lightning druids, the splash is in a 5x5 area.  The splash damage is half that of target damage, making these weak units essential.  Note also that their range is heavily limited.

Ice Sorceresses: 100 gold, 7 proficiency.  Ice Sorceresses temporarily freeze anything they shoot (and won't hit an already frozen target, even if it is the only one).  Being frozen reduces movement, and increases time being stuck in a net.  Essential for perfect netting, but should not be thought of as a great attacker (morons anyone?)

Lightning Druids: 200 gold, 15 proficiency.  These bad boys have decent range, and great attack.  A staple for later levels.

Earth Elementals: 500 gold, 25 proficiency, and damn worth it!  These badasses splash only in a 3x3 area, but you'll understand because anything hit in the splash gets gravel permanently.  This halves speed and armor.  That alone is excellent, but it also has the ability to grant an earthquake per round.  Earthquakes don't hurt flying creatures either, obviously.  You will need these for capghosts, 'probably'.

Spiketraps: About 60 gold, 1 proficiency.  These things weaken units.  Overrated, as you could spend the money from these on better things.  But hey, they don't burn upkeep.

Catapults: No idea, but it sucks, so there you go.  The catapult you must use to shoot rocks with.  The rocks are very powerful, and 'can' help you, but the places where there's one bigtime boss or enemy are times where gold placed elsewhere can prevail.  And you obviously don't want to burn this on large groups like capskeletons.

Deathspikes: 150 gold, 12 proficiency.  A useful insta-killer.  When an enemy steps on it, it has a 12% chance on dying.  Percent chance raises by 1% per level.  A must for necromancers, and not bad other places either.

TNT: something gold, 10 proficiency.  Never really used these, but it's a temporary thing, so only use it when it is NEEDED.  After a bit of being placed, it explodes in a 5x5 area, dealing explosion damage.

Netters: 60 gold, 1 proficiency.  Underrated...holy crap underrated.  I love netters, and you should too.  I will talk better about where and when netters are needed in my actual walkthroughs.  Just know that you have 2 nets to use per round, plus proficiency.  So when you have 25 proficiency, you have 27 nets per wave.

Lancers: 80 gold, 5 proficiency.  Very useful, just a bit slow attacking speed.  What-more needs to be said?

Gorillas: 100 gold (10 gold back for every gorilla that reaches the end alive), 12 proficiency about.  Only usable if no gorillas are on the field, or if nothing's at the gates.  Holds back troops as it attacks them, and can die.  Don't waste money if you don't need to.

Dragonslayers: 500 gold, 25 proficiency.  Deals a lot of damage, huge range.  Use it with pride.

The guide.

This guide will mention what is in each wave, and what to counter it with.  Also due to a recent accomplishment (Game_Hunter and myself beating this legitimately in 2-players), I will explain how to win in 2-player mode here.  Note that I can get to wave 26 on solo, and in theory pass it, if I used the wave 26 strategy from the 2-player guide, but I'm lazy, so...oh well, not going to do it.  Oh, and here's the finishing picture from my win with Game_Hunter: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/ScouSin/CastleBeaten.jpg

Wave 1: Goblins.  Fast but easy kills. Status: At this point, GH put four archers on the bottom of the L, while I placed two in the bottom-left of the block, and two on the skinny wall, barely reaching the door.

Wave 2: Orcs and goblins.  Status: I gave GH my gold, so he soon could make a firemage, which he placed mid-bottom of L.  We barely received hits that we healed off.

Wave 3: Skeletons.  Status: Easy win here.  GH placed a few more firemages by this time, so he can get more easy kills for leveling.  Note that no archers are sold yet.

Wave 4: Orcs and Caporcs. Status: Money round.  Fill up the bottom of the L with firemages, not selling archers.  Also we started to save gold for lancers.  When you get lancers, I suggest you place them somewhat like I placed mine, some on the skinny wall, and a lot on the thick near-beginning wall.  Trial and error says what are good boundaries.

Wave 5: Ogres.  Status: A few kills in this wave gave us enough for lancers, if not earlier (best earlier).  This means if you didn't already upgrade hunters, or upgrade magic when you shouldn't have, you should have a good lancer or two out nailing the ogres.  They may be too much for you, which is why archers help a lot.  If the ogres are nearing the end, I would buy a netter, and place it at the very bottom of the map near the middle of the bottom.  This is where the game starts to change in abilities of the players.  Netting is not easy, and can be harder if you're not the host, if there's lag, or if you're just slow.  Net the ogres before the reach the door, because you can't stop them if they're already there.

Wave 6: Warriors. Status: Having taken up to 300 damage from the ogres, we are still fine.  GH and I both sold our archers now, and he filled the L's right-area with firemages.  The warriors are thus a money round.

Wave 7: Status: Ogres, Caporcs, and capgoblins.  The idea of tanks lining the guarding positions are a good idea, but don't work here.  GH's firemages deal enough splash to kill the caporcs and capgoblins indirectly.  Note that the capgoblins might leak around 5 through.  A quick firemage on the far-right wall reaching the gate is enough to do it.

Wave 8: Wolves.  Status: A dangerous wave, but if you've been updating your lancers a lot, you should have about 16 on the thick wall, and 5 on the thin wall.  They will help the firemages in mauling the wolves.  Expect one or two to reach the door, but you'll heal it off.

Wave 9: Capogres.  Status: If you have good enough lancers, these won't be a problem.  Practice netting here.  You'll need it for later.

Wave 10: Grey Demon.  Status: By now, the door should be near full or at full.  Net the first grey demon by your large lancer pack near the start twice.  After I did this, I netted it by GH's firemages.  Assuming he hasn't bought ice sorceresses yet, the grey demon won't take as much gold in killing his men than mine.  Do the same with the other grey demon.

Wave 11: Ghosts.  Status: These should be cake if the magic person upgraded enough.  Expect some to MAYBE reach the door.  You will hopefully heal it off.

Wave 12: Scarabs.  Status: These can be a problem.  Before this wave have a netter in the very top, middle area of the map.  Net as many scarabs on the far left column as you can, and as fast as you can.  If you have enough firemages, the scarabs will die handily.  If you don't, it can get surprisingly ugly.  Net those scarabs, the ones up-front first!  Expect a lot of damage here if you aren't up to par with netting.

Wave 13: Mummies.  Status: Net as many of these guys near the lancer-pack as possible.  And net them well.  If you fail, this won't show fun results.  High hunter proficiency helps a lot too.

Wave 14: Next (if my memory serves me well) is harpies.  Status: I netted the far ones as much as possible.  Anything to save GH's mages and druids.  They don't seem to kill my lancers (not before they die first anyway).  If you did well, noone died.

Wave 15: Capogres and Capwarriors.  Status: Money round.

Wave 16: Capskeletons.  Status: These guys require druids, and plenty of them.  You will regret screwing this up, if you do.  However, they respond badly to gorillas, so that is your lifeline instead of netting.  At this point, we started saving up for DragonSlayers.

Wave 17: Fellhounds.  Status: If you have lancers, and if you have nettes, you don't need to read this space.

Wave 18: Catapults and Escorts.  Status: Here's where the men are seperated from the really girly men.  You need to net five of the escorts as soon as they come out.  Two on the left, and three on the right.  If you netted perfectly, the magic person (like GH) won't touch the enemy.

Wave 19: Ensemble: Status: This is a commonly accepted money round.  However, that thinking is also why many people lose up to 1000 in Lightning Druids.  This is because one of the groups is harpies.  To prevent almost all death, I net the four harpies on the far side (you gotta do it fast and early, or the harpies will merge with the rest of the group, making it nearly impossible).  You should now have enough money for at least two DragonSlayers.  Place them where two of your lancers used to be, on the right edge of the thick wall.

Wave 20: Queen Spider.  Status: With this strategy, this is a money round.  Nothing should die, and only one pack of spiderlings should appear.  Not that you couldn't use the money.  The new money I gained went to GH, for getting Earth Elementals.  I saved 100 gold for sending gorillas before starting wave 21.  I hit the Go! button right before the gorillas went back into formation in the home stretch.

Wave 21: CapArchers and Escorts.  Status: If you timed gorillas right, you should see the CapArchers die quite swiftly to the gorillas, saving everything from death.  I can do this round flawlessly on solo using only nets USUALLY, but don't try it on 2-player!

Wave 22: Gargoyles.  Status: I used nets on as many gargoyles as possible, to keep the flow balanced.  Some might make it to the door if your netting is sub-par.  Note that you should be full on door life, and well more than safe.

Wave 23: CapGhosts.  Status: By now, GH sometimes had Earth Elementals.  He launches a quake before the round officially starts, then sends another afterwords.  A free quake is underrated.  These might touch if you had Earth Elementals, probably if you don't.

Wave 24: Deathogres, Deathwarriors, Deathorcs, Deathgoblins.  Status: Not a very easy or fun round.  I launched gorillas pre-round so they'd stop the death troops altogether by GH's Earth Elemental.  This is so the gravel hits them ALL.  Also what I did, was net the deathogres, and net them like Hell.  After this wave, if you have at least 2000 door life left, be proud.  If you weren't hit, great job.

Wave 25: Deathwolves.  Status: I sent a gorilla pack out pre-round to stop them by GH's mages.  It helps a lot.  This tings are very long-living.  Expect to get tapped.  Now that you beat this, know that you WILL fail next round without deathspikes (catapults might work, but don't count on it), and plenty of them.

Wave 26: Necromancers, oh shit.  Status: GH did the deathspike laying, since I had to net them.  Necromancers lay down every medievil unit in the game, including Capmummies, which dish out 200 gold a death, and take out 200 door life a tap.  The point of deathspikes is that you get lots of free gold from the summons, and so the large numbers don't overwhelm you.  Note that your dragonslayers will not hit the necromancers, there'll just be way too many random little buggers absorbing hits!  So without deathspikes, you lose.

Wave 27: Minotaurs.  Status: Money round.

Wave 28: Hydralisk. Status: Overrated enemy.  I'd say this was mostly because I am flawless at netting.  Once you break its first form, you have it caught.  Just keep netting the four in succession and in order, even if they're already currently netted.  Afterwords, deathspikes that are stray should get the job done, along with added DragonSlayers.  If not, net em'!

Wave 29: Harder Ensemble.  Status: Disappointing finish,  Necromancers were what was to beat.  Good luck using this apathetic guide.