In this new page, in the "Egyptian Overseas Radio" website, you'll be able to know more about Egypt, its culture & songs, its tasty food ......etc., just inform us with all what you need to know , by sending an E-mail to me "Marwan Khattab, a member in the English service staff and the one responsible for this site on the net" & my E-mail is : marwan_khattab@hotmail.com or : egyptianoverseas_english@hotmail.com , and you'll find all what you wanted to know about Egypt available here or through our programs, wishing that you enjoy your time with us.

Here, we'll provide you with all kinds of Egyptian songs that you want to listen to, besides all the information about the singer whom you want to know, all what we need from you is an E-mail sent to us.

Away from this, you'll already find a number of links to some Egyptian singers' websites, that will be updated weekly, through which you'll listen to their songs & know them more, and from these links we have: 

• http://www.omkolthoum.com/ 
• http://www.abdelhalimhafiz.com/
• http://www.wardaonline.com
• http://www.orientaltunes.com/
• http://www.hishamabbas.net/
• http://www.amrdiab.net/
• http://www.latifaonline.net/
• http://www.egyptiancastle.com/music/singers.htm
• http://www.7alim.com
• http://www.6arab.com
• http://www.salmiya.net

The charm of Sharm

The site of Sharm el-Sheikh shows up as early as 1762 on a Spanish map, but until about 1968, it was nothing more than a quiet fishing community. However, in recent years, Sham el-Sheikh has become one of Egypt's best known and most visited beach resorts. In fact, in recent years, the Egyptian government has worked hard to spread around the Beach vacationers by developing or encouraging the development of many other beach resorts, but Sharm remains the leading tourist spot in the Sinai and there are a number of reasons for this. 

First of all, it is a year round resort, hot in the summer, but pleasant and warm in the winter, and it has an international airport that attracts both private and many international charter flights. 

Next, the area between Tiran Island and Ras Mohammed National Park on the tip of the Southern Sinai features some of the world's most amazing underwater scenery. Here, one finds crystal clear water, rare and beautiful reefs, and an incredible variety of exotic fish amongst the colorful coral. Much of this can be seen simply by snorkeling off the coast, but of course it is well known world-wide for scuba diving, with easy access to some of the Red Sea's most prominent and interesting dive sites. Just to the south of Sharm, on the very tip of the Sinai, is also one of Egypt's oldest and most beautiful, mostly underwater protectorates, Ras Mohamed. 

To accommodate divers, Sharm has ever possible amenity, including first rate dive shops, centers and boats. Many of these are operated by Europeans, and they also provide excellent diving training. A few of the oldest include the Camel Dive Center and South Sinai Divers. 

However, Sharm el-Sheikh also offers the beauty of the Sinai, with its majestic mountains and valleys, a number of national parks, as well as some well known nearby tourist attractions such as St. Catherine's Monastery. 

There is more to Sharm, however, than the beaches, sea and landscape. It is a well developed area that almost seems more like a European resort than Egyptian, with refined facilities and amenities, including these days, some more budget oriented accommodations as well as five star hotels equal to most any in the world. And, while one is capable of spending most any budget at their disposal here, for most Europeans, it remains a relatively inexpensive alternative to more costly beach resort alternatives elsewhere.

Add to this the fact that, because of the number of tourists who continually pour into Sharm, there is just about every activity a vacationer could hope to find, and it is no wonder that the resort area is so popular. Name a water sport and it can almost certainly be found here, but there is also every other activity from four wheeling to go cart tracts, from horse riding to championship golf. One may bowl, bungee jump or, believe it or not, even ice skate. Furthermore, there are any number of activities for children, as well as adults, because Sharm is very much family oriented.  Then in the evening, Sharm takes on almost a Las Vegas flavor with, all along the boardwalk between the hotels and the sea, various types and styles of floorshows (animations), bands, both Arabic and Western, and other entertainment. Its a circus, but it is a charming circus as one walks along the boardwalk, hearing a dozen or more languages from every part of the world.

True, Sharm el-Sheikh is often called the "City of Peace", because of the various peace conferences held in the city and attended by world leaders, but it is also a "world resort", popular among and visited by people from all over Europe, because of its affordability, but also by those from much more distant lands, because it is fun.

The Sharm el-Sheikh area consists of three main areas, consisting of the old town Sharm el Maya (Moya) and its bay, a number of other bays, where most of the tourist facilities are located, though in fact some very fine resorts are located elsewhere, and El Hadaba, where there are vacations villas, apartments, condominiums and a few hotels. 

A map of the Great Sharm el-Sheikh Resort Region

In the greater resort area of Sharm el-Sheikh, the bays include, from south to north, Sharm el Maya, Na'ama Bay, Garden Bay, Tiger Bay, Sharks Bay, and Nabq Bay. There are all sorts of hotels and resorts along this strip of coastline. Some are resort compounds, similar to those more frequently seen on the Red Sea coast, which attempt to provide every option to vacations in one spot. Others are more open, particularly along Na'ama bay, where the board walk provides access to various hotel facilities making them available to everyone.

Of the bays, probably Na'ama Bay, which means "pleasant" in Hebrew, is best known, and this is also where the most hotels are located. These include some of, but by no means all of the finer hotels, including several Hiltons, several Sonesta hotels, a Marriott, the Movenpick, and the less expensive Ghazala, run by the always hospitable people of South Sinai Travel. Up the coast just a bit, near the airport one finds actually some of the newer, very exclusive hotels, including the Four Seasons, the Hyatt, the Intercontinental, another Hilton, the Sheraton, the Movenpick Golf Hotel, which was host to Egypt's first professional golf tournament, and others such as the Holiday inn. A number of other hotels are scattered about, including the Ritz Carlton and the Hilton Waterfalls to the south of Na'ama Bay nearer to downtown. There are a number of other very fine hotels that are not part of major chains, as well as more affordable hotels, some private and some chain, such as the Days Inn.

The downtown area of Sharm, or at least the old town, around Sharm el Maya (Moya) is not large, but there are any number of restaurants and nightspots, such as the Hard Rock Cafe, and various well known fast food chains. Here, one finds the local bazaar (suq). This is also where the main port and marina at Sharm are located, though there are several other marinas up the cost from here at Na'ama Bay and Sharks Bay. Here, one finds the fishing and diving boat jetty. There are banks, and other facilities, as well as one of the three hospitals located in the area 

Sharm el-Sheikh is really, in the end, an extravaganza of entertainment in a beach setting backed by the natural wonders and historic enclaves of the Sinai. I suppose that Sharm is not for everyone, though this author has always enjoyed his visits to this part of the Sinai. What it is not, for the most part, is a laid back experience. For that, one would need to head a little further north to somewhere like Dahab or Nuweiba. Let there be no doubt Sharm is a tourist town with little other purpose, but the community has taken pride in making it more than a vacation destination. It is a one of those places where memories are made, that remain pleasant and fondly cherished dreams. 

Alexandria.....the northern capital of Egypt

The Building of Alexandria

The second largest city in Egypt, Alexandria, known as "The Pearl of the Mediterranean",  has an atmosphere that is more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern ; its ambience and cultural heritage distance it from the rest of the country although it is actually only 225 km. from Cairo.

Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC, Alexandria became the capital of Graeco-Roman Egypt, its status as a beacon of culture symbolized by Pharos, the legendary lighthouse that was one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  The setting for the stormy relationship between Cleopatra and Mark Antony, Alexandria was also the center of learning in the ancient world. But ancient Alexandria declined, and when Napoleon landed, he found a sparsely populated fishing village.

From the 19th century Alexandria took a new role, as a focus for Egypt's commercial and maritime expansion. This Alexandria has been immortalized by writers such as E-M- Forster and Cavafy. Generations of immigrants from Greece, Italy and the Levant settled here and made the city synonymous with commerce, cosmopolitanism and bohemian culture.

Alexandria is a city to explore at random. It's as important to enjoy the atmosphere as it is to see the sights. 

Old Alexandria

Dinocrates built the Heptastadion, the causeway between Pharos and the mainland.  This divided the harbors into the Western and Eastern.  The Eastern harbor was really where the old harbor from the Middle Ages was located.

Of modern Alexandria, the oldest section is along the causeway which links what was once Pharos island with the mainland and includes the districts of  Gumrok (the oldest dating to about the 16th century and known as the customs district) Anfushi, and Ras el-Tin (Cape of Figs). The latter two districts date to about the period of Mohammed Ali (1805-49).  Collectively, these districts are known to westerners as the Turkish Quarter. They have had a number of ups and downs over the years, particularly due to the plague during the 17th century. The area forms somewhat of a T-shape, dividing the Eastern Harbor from the Western Harbor.

This section of Alexandria is known to us more from books then what we may actually see in the area. Where the Pharos Lighthouse once stood,  is now occupied by the Fort of Quit Bay (1) out on the area that circles up around the top of Eastern Harbor forming the eastern section of the top of the T.  Heading south from the Fort of Quit Bay, we come to the stunning Abu El-Abbas Mosque (2). West of this is the Anfushi Tombs (3), some of the oldest in Alexandria and well worth a visit.

Central Alexandria

The Underwater Discoveries Relatively new discoveries in the Eastern Harbor involve two different sites.  Around Fort Qaitbey the site has unearthed hundreds of objects, including what experts believe are the remains of the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the ancient wonders of the world In the south east part of the harbor archaeologists have apparently found the Royal Quarters, including granite columns and fabulous statues, including one of Isis and a sphinx with a head thought to be that of Cleopatra's father. There may vary well be an underwater exhibit in the future.

Heading towards the mainland  past the Abu El-Abbas Mosque and connecting with Shari Faransa street leads to the Suq district. Just before entering the district one finds the interesting little Terbana Mosque (4).  In the Suq district (5), one finds Alexandria's only surviving wakalas, which is a part of the El-Shorbagi Mosque complex founded in 1757.  This was also the area where Alexandria's Jewish community lived, but most have now migrated to Israel. Different areas have specialized in different goods and one may find all manner of products from jewelry to Medicinal plants (Suq El-Magharba) to Bedouin clothing (Suq El-Libia).

Continuing down Faransa one passes Midan Tahrir (6) and the street turns into Salah Salem, and finally connects with Al-Horreya. 

However, Midan Tahrir, popularly called Manshiya, has considerable history.  The areas was once home to Diplomats and known as Place Des Consuls, but after the statue of Mohammed Ali was placed here in 1873 the name was changed to Midan Mohammed Ali.  In 1882, it was bombarded by the British and all but destroyed.  The Alexandria Stock Exchange was once located here, and it was from the midan that Nasser announced the nationalization of the Suez Canal. 

The street named Al-Horreya (Tariq abd el-Nasser) which transverses the area from east to west was in ancient times the Canopic Way with the Gate of the Sun at the eastern end and the Gate of the Moon at the western end.  At that time, there were probably columns lining the road. The main north to south street, now Sharia el-Nebi Daniel, ran from the East Harbor all the way to Lake Harbor on Lake Mariout.  

Just south of the  intersection of Al Horreya and el-Nebi Daniel was the site traditionally thought to be the burial place of Alexander the Great, but that has not been located, and may in fact be beneath the Mosque of Nebi Daniel (7) or in a nearby Greek necropolis.  The famous Alexandria Library was probably nearby. However, the only real antiquities site that can be viewed in the area is Kom el-Dikka (8), a small Roman theater that has been excavated. Nearby is also a bath house of the era.  To the east is the Antiques District where dealers sell antiquities, books, old weapons and furniture.  Here is also the Attarine Mosque, which was once a church dedicated to Athanasius.

Further south along the tramway is Popey's pillar (9) and nearby the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa (10).

Wondering along el-Nebi Daniel are several other attrations, including the French Cultural Center, and nearby the Eliahu Hanabi Synagague (11), which is the only active synagogue in Alexandria and houses the combined treasures of the seven former Alexandrian synagogues.

Back to the north on el-Nebi Daniel, next to the harbor where Ramla station is now located at Midan Saad Zaghlul was the location of the Caesareum (12).  This was a magnificent temple begun by Cleopatra for her lover Antony and subsequently completed by their enemy Octavian, though none of this remains.in situ. Nearby is the well known Cecil Hotel, built in 1930,  Smerset Maugham stayed here, as did Winston Churchill, and the British Secret Service one maintained a suite for their operations.  

Midan Saad Zaghlul (13) is the entertainment heart and nerve center of Alexandria. here, as terminals and train stations provide a backdrop for cinemas, restaurants and night spots.  It was the setting of Lawrence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet and the famous Alexandria coffee houses. The square is dominated by an impressive monument dedicated to Saad Zaghlul, a former national leader.

The Greek Quarter and Bab  Rosetta District

Back on Al Horreya heading east, as we pass the Graeco-Roman Museum (a notable museum well worth a visit) we move into the Greek Quarter of Alexandria, one of the most beautiful residential districts. The wonderful old villas include the massive Miclavez building, which is opposite the Town Hall and nearby the Adda Complex built in 1929.  This is where the wealthy Greeks lived at the turn of the century, and the streets are still named after the Ptolemic, Pharaonic, Abbasid and Fatimid rulers.  Further east is the Greek Orthodox patriarchate andthe Church of St. Saba.

Further east, Al Horreya opens into a beautiful green area known as the Shallalat Gardens..which was once the fortification of Bab Rosetta.  But in 1905, Alexandria created a garden area here with waterfalls and the only Alexandria cistern which can be viewed.  This cestern is an example of those which once dotted Alexandria providing fresh water to her inhabitants.

The Corniche

The Corniche is doted with Casions bult on stilts and rows of beach huts.  The avenue here did not always exists, for until the 20th century, the areas remained fortified by a five mile long wall with towers which had protected the city since the 13th Century.  In the early 1900s, a strip of land with a width of about 100 yeards was reclaimed from the sea, and the area became popular with beach goers. That is no longer the case, but it remains a lively area of Alexandria. 

On the western end of the Corniche near Silsila where the New Alexandria Library is being constructed is the Shatby Tombs which are said to be the oldest in Alexandria. Nearer the San Stefano area across the tram tracks is also the Royal Jewlery Museum.

The Mahmudiya Canal

A walk along the Mahmudiya Canal brings wone face to face with the working class and industrial districts of Alexandria, and is pleasent along the old paved road bordered by the canal and sycamore treets.  South of the Greek district along the canal is the Antoniadis Gardens, which seep with history.  Here, the poet Callimachus lived and taught, and in 640 AD, Pompilius prvented the King of Syria from capturing Alexandria.  But less then a year later, Amr Ibn el-As camped here, before taking the city. The well known Water Traffic Circle is also in the area.

Here one finds the Zoological Gardens, the small Museum of Natural History and the Fine Arts Museum in the Moharrem Bey area, and a Rose Garden.  The beautiful public gardens extend into the surrounding area where the Antoniadis Palace is located, and there is even a nearby Roman tomb.

El-Muntaza

Muntaza Gardens

This area along the coast about 15 miles east of Alexandrias old district along the Corniche is  where many of the modern Alexandrian hotels are located, as well as one of the elegant heritage hotels.  Khedive Abbas II built the Salamlik as a residence.  Here also is the magnificent Montaza Palace.

The Gates of Alexandria

 A Walking Trail Guide

Contents

• Saint Katherine Protectorate – How to use this guide
• Preparation
• What will I see?
• Exodus
• Site 1 The Plain of El-Raha and Aaron’s Hill
• Site 2 The Golden Calf
• Site 3 The Askar – Barracks of Abbas Pasha
• Site 4 Roman Quarry
• Site 5 Monastery of Saint Katherine
• Site 6 Camel Path
• Site 7 Jebel El-Deir Path Junction
• Site 8 Saddle between Wadi El-Deir and Wadi Isbaiyah
• Site 9 Galaktion and Episteme
• Site 10 Camel station and Cutting
• Site 11 To tread on Holy Ground – The summit of Mount Sinai
• Site 12 Elijah’s Basin
• Site 13 The Stairway of Repentance and Elijah’s Gate
• Site 14 Shrive Gate (The Gate of Forgiveness)
• Site 15 Chapel of Our Lady of the Steward (Oikonomissa)
• Site 16 Spring of Symeon
• Post Script

Mount SinaiSaint Katherine ProtectorateIntroduction

The Monastery of Saint Katherine and Mount Sinai (Jebel Musa) are the most famous sites within the 4,350 square kilometers Saint Katherine Protectorate. The Protectorate was established in 1996 and contains a wealth of cultural, natural and religious history. The unique high altitude desert ecosystem and the religious landscape are intertwined with treasures of Bedouin life and culture. Several guidebooks including this one have been prepared for half day walks in the spectacular and beautiful local area.How to use this guide

The site numbers in this booklet correspond to the numbers engraved on the small sandstone markers located at particular points along the path. At each site you will have the opportunity to read a little about what you see, and discover more of the history, nature and culture of the area.

Read the Biblical account of Exodus summarized on page 5 and use the numbers to identify those sites at which some of the events are widely believed to have occurred.Preparation

• Wear sturdy shoes and a hat, take matches or a lighter, sunscreen, and a warm jacket for early mornings and evenings.
• If you stay overnight sleep only in Elijah’s Basin not on the summit.
• Respect the right of pilgrims to a quiet, peaceful experience on the summit.
• Respect the religious rights and the sanctity of the landscape and leave no trace of your visit.
• Do not collect or destroy plant or animal life or leave graffiti.
• Please dispose of your litter in the bins provided
• Please use the available environmental and hygienic toilets.

The interpretative trail begins at the mouth of Wadi El-Deir at Aaron’s Hill (Nabi Haruun) and continues past the Monastery up the camel path to the top of Elijah’s Basin, then follows the stairway to the summit of Mount Sinai. The trail descends back to Elijah’s Basin and then continues down the stairway of Repentance to return to the Monastery.

The length of the trail is approximately 7 kilometers and you should allow 5 to 7 hours to complete it depending on your fitness level. The trail follows the least strenuous route but is rocky in places and care should be taken especially descending the stairway. The traditional route for pilgrims to prove their worthiness of the ascent is to climb the Stairway of Repentance.

What will I see?You are one of thousands who have set out to climb Mount Sinai, or Jebel Musa. Pilgrims, travelers and visitors have been attracted to the religious landscape of Mount Sinai for centuries. As you ascend the path the guide will help you identify the chapels, mosques and the other sacred sites you will see and also describe the dramatic events such as the Burning Bush and the receiving of the Ten Commandments that happened in this part of the Sinai desert between 3500 and 3200 years ago. For some the ascent is merely a physical experience but those who choose to understand the history of the "God-Trodden Mount", and respect its 1600 year old monastic tradition will undoubtedly discover something more spiritual.

From the path you will see churches, chapels, mosques and sacred sites nestled in basins and standing peaceably on summits. These places represent a common link in the faith of Christians, Jews and Muslims. Biblical and Quranic accounts describe the exalted events that occurred "in the Sinai desert" (Exodus 19:1) between 1500 and 1200 BC.

The local Jebeliya Bedouin also have a particular regard for Mount Sinai as a holy mountain and over the centuries the Jebeliya have developed a unique relationship with the Monastery.

The monastic tradition grew from the 3^rd century when many early Christians sought refuge from the persecution of pagan Rome in the holy mountains of south Sinai. Relics of these Roman and Byzantine times can still be seen on the mountain in ancient quarries, paved paths and stairs, hermitages and water conduits.

The Monastery of Saint Katherine continues today in Orthodox tradition; however, the pressures of secular tourism threaten to change this. Your efforts to appreciate the significance of this unique landscape and understand the history of the Monastery are important to their conservation and continuity.

Please treat the area with respect and encourage others to do the same. Do not damage or remove anything from the area and stay on the paths. There is a book on the summit to record your visit.Exodus

Moses was discovered as a baby in a papyrus basket floating amongst rushes at the edge of the Nile. The Pharaoh at the time had cammanded that all newborn Hebrew boys be thrown into the Nile, but his daughter found the baby, rescued him and brought him up on the Pharaoh’s court, naming him Moses.

As a young man Moses was sentenced to death for assaulting and killing an Egyptian foreman who had beaten up an Israelite labourer, and to escape execution he fled to the Sinai mountains. Here he met and married one of the seven daughters of Jethro and lived for forty years with his father-in-law, tending his flocks and cleansing his soul. One day god revealed himself to Moses in the Miracle of the Burning Bush and ordered Moses to save the children of Israel from captivity.

God parted the Red Sea to allow the six hundred thousand Israelites to be led to the plain beneath Mount Horeb (now Jebel Musa/Ras Safsaafa). Moses spent 40 days and 40 nights on Mount Sinai, during which time God presented him with two stone tablets inscribed with the Ten Commandments. While waiting for Moses to return, they were visited by Moses’ brother, Aaron, who made them a statue of a golden calf to worship. On returning from Mount Horeb, Moses was so outraged at this worship of an idol that he smashed the tablets. He then returned to the mountain where God instructed him to carve two new tablets. At Moses’ request God also revealed himself in a flash of light, but first He cut a cleft in the rock to shield Moses from His blinding glory.

Exalted, Moses descended the mountain with the new tablets and with instructions from God to lead the people to the Land of Canaan (present day Israel). The Israelites built the Ark of the Covenant to house the tablets, and the Ten Commandments of the Lord became the basis of Jewish and Christian religion and social organization.

"Now this is the great and flat valley wherein the children of Israel waited during those days when holy Moses went up the Mount of the Lord and remained for forty days and forty nights…" Etheria, a Spanish pilgrim circa AD 400

Site 1

The Plain of El-Raha and Aaron’s HillThe walk starts from the top of a small hill, Nabi Haruun, where a white Christian chapel and a Muslim shrine stand, both of them dedicated to the Prophet Aaron. Orientate yourself with the sketch on the previous page. The hill is at the mouth of Wadi El-Deir opposite the Plain of El-Raha (the resting place) also called Wadi Muka’das, the Holy Valley. The site is reputedly where Aaron and the Israelites made the golden calf while Moses was on Mount Sinai.

The view of the Monastery from this point is outstanding. The view northwest looks to the El-Raha plain or Wadi Muka’das (the Holy Valley) believed to be where the Israelites waited for Moses.

The arrangement of rocks and small circular buildings in the south-western side of Aaron’s Hill is a Jebeliya Bedouin cemetery. Traditionally the graves were shallow and marked by a single upright rock but today they are more elaborate.Site 2

The Golden CalfWalk about 250 meters, past the cemetery and across the road towards a small walled garden. On the rock face to the right, near the foot of Megalo Manna Garden is a rock in the shape of a calf. The Bedouin call it the Cow (El-Bagara) and believe that the Israelites used it as a mould for their idol.

Site 3

‘The Askar’: Barracks of Abbas Pasha

These stone ruins on the road to the Monastery are the remains of the mid-19^th century barracks built for Abbas Pasha’s soldiers and workers. (Learn more about Abbas Pasha at Site 6). The barracks were organized around two main courts and a mosque. The mosque was located on the side of the ruins closest to the Monastery.

Continue past the tourist police station, and along the dirt road which gradually ascends towards the Monastery of Saint Katherine which is reached in about 10 minutes.Site 4

Roman QuarryAs you walk up the road look carefully at the lower slopes of the mountains on your left. These were stripped of loose stones to expose solid granite for quarrying. This quarry was the source of the first building blocks for the foundations of the monastery, the church and its fortification in the 6^th century. The architecture of cut stone seems to have been gradually abandoned after the Arab conquest in the 7^th century, although loose stones were taken from this quarry as late as the 19^th century.

Look for the cut faces, chisel marks on flat rock surfaces and horizontal trenches used to wedge the blocks of granite away from the rock.Site 5

Monastery of Saint KatherineIn 1822 Burkhardt recorded a monk telling him that if the Monastery of Saint Katherine "had been subject to the revolutions and oppressions of Egypt or Syria, it would have long ago been abandoned; but Providence has preserved us by giving us Bedouin for neighbors."

The Monastery and the Jebeliya Bedouin share a very close and interdependent relationship. In the past, the Jebeliya depended on the supplies and services that the monastery provided while the monastery was reliant on the local people for manual labor and protection. The Jebeliya are descendants of soldiers and servants who were sent by Emporer Justinain to build and maintain the monastery 1400 years ago. Intermarrying with local nomads and converting to Islam, the Jebeliya maintain beliefs about the sacred landscape which derive from both Christian and Muslim tradition.

Today the Jebeliya continue to be employed by the monastery as gardeners, stonemasons, groundsmen, bakers, blacksmiths, carpenters and general labourers. Traditionally, all disputes not settled by Jebeliya people have been presented to the Archbishop of the Monastery to resolve.

Since the 3^rd century, Christian monks and hermits settled in small monastic communities around Mount Sinai to escape persecution and follow a life of prayer and devotion in the holy mountains.

In AD 330 Saint Helena, Emperor Constantine’s mother, erected a small church at the site of the Burning Bush, to commemorate the spot where God appeared to Moses, and a tower to serve as secure shelter for the monks. In the 6^th century, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian ordered the building of a fortified monastery encompassing the church and tower.

Tradition relates that the relics of the martyr Saint Katherine were borne by angels to the summit of Mount Katherine where they were discovered and transferred to a reliquary in the basilica in the 9^th century. From that time the place has become known as the Monastery of Saint Katherine.

Frequent attacks between the 15^th and 17^th centuries caused the gates of the monastery to be walled up by rope and pulley. Evidence of this system can be seen on the northeastern wall of the Monastery.

Jebeliya Bedouin and the Holy Mountain

A Jebeliya Bedouin man, Mahmuud Mansuur explains the significance of Mount Sinai to his people: "My family has been on the Mountain for 1400 years. It is a holy place to us. Not only do we depend on it for our livelihood, but our sick people climb the mountain to talk to God and ask for health or fertility. I’ve been climbing this mountain since I was fourteen- the mountain and I know each other well."Site 6

Camel PathThe camel path begins from behind the Monastery near the camel station where Bedouin cameleers offer rides up Mount Sinai, stopping just short of Elijah’s Basin. The remaining 750 steps must be climbed on foot. The camel path was constructed by Ibrahim Abbas Pasha, ruler of Egypt from 1849-54. In 1853 he visited Sinai with plans to build a palace on Mount Sinai. The palace eventually was built on the summit of Jebel Abbas Pasha, a mountain west of Saint Katherine village, from where its ruins can be seen. The Stairway of Repentance begins about 200 metres to the right of the camel station and can be seen winding up the steep, rocky gorge. The remains of ancient walls can be seen in the mound to the right of the path; this archaeological site has not been excavated.

Site 7

Jebel El-Deir Path JunctionFacing the engraved stone number the red granite massif rising to your left is Jebel El-Deir – the mountain of the Monastery. You can see several shrines, hermitages and gardens in the mountain crevices. A zigzag path leads to a small monastery, Magafa, which nestles amid date palms and Byzantine stone walls. It can be seen more clearly from Site 9.

The small mountain to the south, i.e. on your right, is called Jethro’s Mountain or Jebel El-Muneijah (Calling of God). This site is where Jethro and his daughters were supposed to have lived when Moses first came to Mount Sinai and where he saw the Burning Bush and spoke to God. The small white church on its summit is dedicated to both Saint Theodore the Commander and Saint Theodore the Tyro, or Recruit, Roman soldiers who were martyred. Behind you, to the southwest, the furthest peak is your first view of Mount Sinai’s craggy double summit. Continue up the path for about 1km to Site 8. The Monastery disappears behind you as you ascend.Site 8

Saddle Between Wadi El-Deir and Wadi IsbaiyahTo your left at the top of the pass you look south into the wide, sandy valley of Wadi Isbaiyah which formed part of the ancient trade route connecting the Monastery to both Palestine and Cairo. Camel caravans came over the pass below, marked by a pile of stones and colloquially called Nagb’I Deir, bringing food and supplies as well as pilgrims, scholars and other travelers, to the Monastery from the port of El-Tur on the Gulf of Suez. Below you can also see a small Bedouin village and gardens which are stone walled to keep out animals.

Site 9

Galaktion and EpistemeSite 9 is located on a bend in the camel path. Looking across to Jebel El-Deir, you can see a green tree midway up the mountain. To the left of this is the Monastery of Saint Episteme, a nun, and Saint Galaktion, a monk, who lived in the fourth century.

To your right you have a good view of the switch-back path leading to Saint Theodore’s chapel on the green tinged mountain of Jebel El-Muneijah.

Lives of Galaktion and Episteme

Galaktion was the son of pagan parents who, in spite of sacrifices to idols, had been childless until they were advised by a priest to pray for a child to the God of the Christians. Galaktion was born and brought up as a Christian, he later married Episteme, also a Christian. They devoted their lives to God and became monastics. They settled in Sinai along with their followers to follow a life of devotion and to escape religious persecution but were captured by the Romans and martyred in the arena of Alexandria.

Site 10

Camel Station and CuttingFrom the camel terminus, you climb through a narrow pass in the mountain which was cut through to continue to Abbas Pasha’s path to the summit. Evidence of the holes drilled for the explosives to blast open the way can be seen on the sides of the path. On some rock faces a black plant like pattern can be seen. After the pass the path leads left to the summit of Mount Sinai and right to Elijah’s Basin. Turn left and climb the final 750 steps to the summit – which takes about 25 minutes.

Rays of God or Dendrites

On some rock faces a black leaf-like pattern can be seen. Some people believe that the patterns were caused by divine light so intense that it imprinted the shadows of living plants on stone and that it is reminiscent of the leaves from the Burning Bush.

Geologists call this pattern dendritic pyrolusite and say it is formed by a chemical reaction which leaves a manganese deposit.Site 11

To Tread on Holy Ground – The Summit of Mount Sinai

"Nothing can exceed the savage grandeur of the view from the summit of Mount Sinai. The infinite complication of jagged peaks and varied ridges, and their prevalent intensely red and greenish tints…" (Edward Hull 1885)

The final steps of the Stairway of Repentance take to 2,285 metres above sea level and the lofty summit of Mount Sinai; the view from here has been likened to "an ocean of petrified waves". Sometimes it is possible to see the hazy blues of the Gulfs of Suez and Aqaba from this point. The northern and eastern boundaries of the Jebeliya territory are demarcated by the dark volcanic circular dyke and the peaks of Jebel Um Alawi. Use the panoramic sketch to orientate yourself and locate landmarks.

Christians and Muslims have long regarded this summit as the sacred Mount Sinai although Jewish tradition is more guarded in ascribing an earthly location to Mount Sinai. In early Christian times, it was only the pious who walked up the mountain in barefooted reverence who were permitted to visit the summit. Pilgrims rarely slept here and to this day the Bedouin respect the Holy Mountain by leaving with their flocks before sunset. The practice of sleeping on the summit to watch the sunrise is recent and the problems caused by waste and overcrowding disappoint many visitors. If you are camping please sleep at Elijah’s Basin.

Use the sketch opposite to orientate yourself. The altar of the Church of the Holy Trinity is said to be built over the rock where God created the Tablets of the Law. Adjoining its northern wall, behind an iron fence, is the cleft of rock from where Moses beheld God’s glory. Many people believe that the marks inside the crevice are the imprints of Moses’ back, hands and head where he "shrank back into the rock while the glory of the Lord passed by".

At the end of the 4^th century Etheria, a pilgrim, writes of worshipping in a chapel atop Mount Sinai. In the 6^th century, under Emperor Justinian, a new basilica-type chapel, with two aisles, was built of cut granite. It was much larger than the present church, extending to the edge of the present mosque. The basilica was destroyed in the 11^th century along with many other Christian shrines by the Fatimid ruler al-Hakim. The Monastery was spared because of the letter of protection in which Prophet Mohammed declared "a secure and positive promise" to defend the Christian establishment and because it also had a mosque inside the walls.

The extent of the 6^th century church can be easily traced on the western slope of the summit. The altar of the basilica is thought to have been incorporated into the existing church of the Holy Trinity (built in 1934). Many of the large pink granite blocks from the 6^th century church were used to construct the existing church, others lie scattered about. It is thought that these granite blocks were quarried from Elijah’s Basin. The circular Christian cross in stone relief found on some of the blocks is indicative of the Justinian era.

Next to the church is a mosque which also incorporates some of the blocks from the earlier church. Beneath the mosque is a small grotto with a prayer niche which was probably a crypt of the original basilica. Neither the church nor mosque are normally open to visitors. A book is available for you to record your visit. About 40 metres below the summit are the remains of a Byzantine water conduit which fed the cistern between the two small rock knolls. Other conduits can be found on the mountain.

Return by the stairs. Approximately 200 metres down from the chapel to the left of the Stairway and marked by a ring of rocks, is an impression which resembles the footprint of a camel in the rock. Some Jebeliya Bedouin claim it is the mark of the She-Camel (El-Bohraq) of Prophet Mohammed; others say that this is the footprint of the She-Camel of the angel who brought the Ten Commandments to Moses.Site 12

Elijah’s BasinFrom the bottom of the Stairs, you follow the path left down to Site 12 and Elijah’s Basin. This is a sandy flat surface which lies between the northern extension of the mountain, Mount Safsafa, and the summit and which breaks the 750 steps to the summit from the 3000 steps which descend to the Monastery.

A large thousand year old cypress tree, bare branched at the top, together with six younger cypresses and an olive tree surround an ancient well which is fed by snow melt and occasional rainfall. Below the well is a Byzantine dam which has been repaired recently. Constructed primarily to prevent flood damage to the Monastery, it also serves to recharge springs below. A lone Sinai hawthorn tree, frequented by small birds like the white crowned black wheatear and Sinai rosefinch, stands near the dam wall.

The chalky white Church of Elijah commemorates the place where Elijah fled after killing the prophets of Baal and is mentioned be Etheria in the 4^th century. Inside the church is the stone beneath which Elijah sheltered when he spoke with God (see I Kings 19:1-18). Incorporated beneath its roof is the Chapel of Elisha, an acolyte of Elijah. Opposite this is "Daniel’s Room", the shelter of the guardian of the church and summit in previous centuries. The Church of Saint Stephen is located in the southern neck of the basin approximately 200 metres from the other churches. The church marks the cave where Saint Stephen lived; he was one of the confessors for pilgrims in the 6^th century and his cloaked remains are in the ossuary at the Monastery.

The stairway down starts to the right of the dam and the Monastery can be reached in about one hour from this point. The path is spectacular but steep and should not be attempted at night.

White crowned black wheatear (bag’aa)

A small black bird, the male with a white crown and rump and a fluty call. Very common; prefers rocky slopes.

Sinai rosefinch (gazam)

Spending the warmer months in the high mountains and wintering in the wadis, this small seed-eating bird is often seen on Mount Sinai. Identified by its stout bill and melodious song, the male plumage is pink, the female is brown with a pinkish tinge.

Story of Elijah (874-853 BC)

Prophet Elijah warned the King of Israel that God would punish him with a drought for worshipping Baal; the worship of Baal was encouraged by Jezebel, daughter of the King of Sidonia and wife of Ahab. When the drought came Jezebel had God’s prophets killed. Elijah then ordered that 450 pagan prophets prepare and altar to Baal, while he himself prepared one to God, saying "and the God that answers by fire, let him be God". The pagan prophets called upon Baal to no avail but when Elijah called upon God, fire descended and burned up the sacrifice. At this sign the people rose up and Elijah slew the 450 priests of Baal. On hearing this Jezebel threatened to kill Elijah who fled "unto Horeb the mount of God" ( a Biblical synonym for Mount Sinai). There God commanded him to anoint the new kings of Syria and Israel and Elisha to succeed him as a prophet.

Site 13

The Stairway of Repentance and Elijah’s GateEtheria records that in the 4^th century the "Stairs of Repentance" only extended part way up the mountain. Monastery records reveal that the stairway was completed by an anonymous monk under the patronage of Emperor Justinian in the 6^th century. Monks have always believed that the mountain should only be ascended by those with the proper spiritual preparation and endurance for this steep but direct climb up the Stairway of Repentance. Bedouin call this route "the Path of our Lord Moses" (Sikkat Sayyidna Musa).

A hundred metres down the steps is Elijah’s Gate; a faint inscription around the top of the arch reads "John the Abbot" and is believed to date from the 6^th century.

Site 14

Shrive Gate (The Gate of Forgiveness)In past time pilgrims confessed their sins to a priest at this gate and before ascending to the summit were asked: "Who shall ascend into the hill of the Lord? Or who shall stand in this holy place?". The pilgrim’s response was from the succeeding verse in Psalm 24 – "He that hath clean hands, and a pure heart; who hath not lifted up his soul unto vanity, nor sworn deceitfully. He shall receive the blessing from the Lord, and righteousness from the God of his salvation." Pilgrims were then granted a certificate, a practice which continued until the 1880s.

Through the gate at waist level on the right is an inscription in Greek, possibly the word "Stephanus" and an image of a hand.Site 15

Chapel of Our Lady of the Steward (Oikonomissa)A little further on you overlook the white-washed Byzantine chapel which stands approximately half way down the summit. The chapel is dedicated to a miraculous event which was reported in the 6^th century.

The oikonomos, or Monastery steward, unable to obtain sufficient supplies to sustain the Fathers, climbed Mount Sinai to pray for the monks who had decided to leave the Monastery. The Virgin Mary appeared to him and promised that the storeroom would be filled. Descending from the mountain he saw a caravan of camels arriving laden with supplies from Palestine.

Another account explains that at one time the Monastery was so overrun with fleas, flies and ants that the monks could not "keep their corn or comfort there". All but two of the monks had left the monastery and they also had decided to leave after a final prayer on the summit of Mount Sinai. On their ascent they encountered at this spot an apparition of the Virgin Mary who promised that they "would not lack what they needed for living" and that the insects would not torment them any longer. Following this the monastery became free of these pests and until recently, pilgrims attested to this miracle, claiming that "Cretain unclean creatures like flies, wasps, hornets, fleas and others of that sort, cannot live there, nor come into the monastery from the outside. And it has been observed that if such creatures are introduced into the monastery, they instantly die."

The remainder of the Stairway is flanked by eroded granite walls and massive boulders. Take time to appreciate the changing colors, the extraordinary rock shapes and different views of the Monastery as you descend.Site 16

Spring of SymeonAfter 20 minutes you reach the Spring of Symeon, wedged between two large granite boulders and marked by a small poplar tree. A stone bench looks onto the small dripping spring surrounded by delicate mats of moss and maidenhair fern. This spring is reported to be the place where Saint Stephen baptized Jews in order that they pass the Shrive Gate and ascend the Holy Mount. The Jebeliya remember when this spring used to be much deeper and cleaner. The spring is now contaminated with rubbish and human waste; attempts are being made to clean and restore it.

PostscriptThe religious significance and the long history of Mount Sinai and the Monastery have attracted visitors in the past and will continue to do so in the future. However these sites are not primarily tourist attractions but the home and a place of worship for monks and pilgrims. The Monastic tradition of hospitality means that all visitors are welcome, but the increasing number of secular visitors is placing a great strain on the monks and their religious lives. If you decide to enter the Monastery, please dress and act in a respectful way and remember that visiting hours are strictly between 9 am and 12 noon daily, except on Friday, Sunday and Feast days when the Monastery is closed to all visitors.