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Charming
Geneva home to some 200 international organizations, the
Swiss city is as cosmopolitan as can be, and yet, it remains
unfazed and quietly dignified, exuding rich heritage and
cultural vibrancy ... |

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Geneva has all the trappings of a typical Swiss city -
pristine, safe, clockwork and orderly, with its fair share of
shops teeming with excellent timepieces and those
oh-so-tempting chocolates, plus of course, the obligatory
snow-clad mountain backdrop. But one thing stands it apart,
and that is its unique status as a meeting place for many
international organizations (to trash out almost every global
issue there is), resulting in the city's name being used as a
prefix to many a convention concluded at its famous neutral
negotiating tables. It is therefore not surprising that the
city has become a "united nations" capital, with one in three
residents being
non-Swiss. |
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Yet, despite its multi-national community of diplomats,
delegates, government administrators and bankers, Geneva
retains a serene elegance with graceful buildings, cathedrals
and parks, a wonderful collection of museums and a fascinating
history, which I was to discover, all on my brief stay in this
city tucked comfortably by the lovely Lake
Geneva. |
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Peaceful Lake Geneva
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Brought here for official matters as with most other
visitors, I began my exploration of the place strolling on the
shores of Lake Geneva, a pleasant experience indeed. Neat
rolls of dancing tulips decorate the walkway while swans and
ducks frolicked in the waters. A splendid plethora of
colourful sailing boats docked, against a calm of shimmering
bluish-grey punctuated by the dramatic Jet d'Eau, the
signature centrepiece of Geneva. Many cameras clicked away as
the spectacular jetspray swings joyously with the winds,
skimmed by a faint rainbow. Boat cruises are also available
which go up the Rhone River on a round trip. |
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Colourful Old Town & Saint-Pierre
Cathedral
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Located on the south bank of the river, the Old Town is
dominated by the impressive Saint-Pierre Cathedral. Built in
1160-1232 AD, the architecture is part Romanesque, part Gothic
with a 157-step high North Tower offering panoramic views of
the city. Geneva adopted Protectionism in 1536. Standing in
the imposing cathedral building, I wondered how it must have
been in the days of austere preachings by John Calvin, a
leader of the Protestant Reformation. Visiting the
archaeological museum under the Cathedral gives further
fascinating insights into the earlier church buildings on the
same site built during the Roman
Empire. |
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A stone's throw away lies an intriguing Old Arsenal with
magnificent grand old cannons laid out against lively
paintings by Gustave de Beaumont, summarizing the history of
Geneva. Above, the building is decorated with mosaic frescoes
depicting Julius Caesar's arrival in 58 BC, the fairs of the
Middle Ages, and the welcoming of Huguenot refugees during the
Reformation. |
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The Old Town is a sheer joy to explore, with cobbled
streets winding up and down flanked by beautiful stately
buildings, and delightful surprises unearthing at every
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corner -
from pretty flowered water fountains to splendid squares and
vistas. Place du Bourg du Four, the oldest square, has been a
gathering place since ancient times. It was a Roman
marketplace, a venue for fairs in the Middle Ages, then a
forum to hear Calvin during the Reform. Today, it is the
perfect rendezvous spot to relax and have a cuppa, while
soaking in the bustling atmosphere.
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Strolling from Place du Bourg du Four down to nearby Place
de la Madeleine proved to be "treacherous", with touristy
shops beckoning enticingly from both sides. And then the mood
became really carnival upon reaching the picturesque square. I
was arrested by the gay sight and music of a delightful old
merry-go-round - with white horses resplendent in
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seemed to have leapt straight out from a storybook! Kids were
prancing with excitement while parents had a field day, lining
up and peering at their little ones going round and round.
Sigh, if only I were still a child...
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If the Old Town is charming and full of quaint shops
selling bric-a-bracs, the Place du Molard at the foot of the
hill marks the start of modern temptations, with department
stores, luxury boutiques, flower market stores... in other
words, a grand shopping street waiting to relieve your Swiss
francs! |
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Museums Galore
If you are a museum lover, Geneva not only offers the "usual
great European city historic and artistic fare", but also
storehouses of a more quirky nature.
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A number of museums are located in the Old Town itself. The
excellent Art and History Museum contains a diverse
collection, ranging from Egyptian, Greek and Roman
archaeological artefacts, Middle Ages applied arts like
textiles, silverware, stained glass, furniture and woodwork,
to my favourite - a fine arts collection spanning from the
15th to 20th century which include prominent Swiss works and
impressionist pieces by Renoir, Monet and
Cezanne. |
The Petit Palais is a compact and intimate gallery located at the
gates of the Old Town and houses modern art paintings, sculptures
and drawings from 1870 to 1930. The approach is educational and interactive, giving
a better appreciation to
the neo-Impressionists movement and
its study of light, colours and perception, with illustrative
works from French greats like Seurat and Pissarro.
A visit to Geneva is incomplete without taking a trip to
the International Red Cross & Red Crescent Museum, located
just opposite the Palais de Nations, home of the United
Nations Office. 1863 marks the beginning of Geneva's universal
heritage, when Swiss Jean Henri Dumant founded the
International Red Cross, after being appalled by the terrible
plight of the wounded he witnessed at the Battle of Solferino.
The compassionate man received the first Noble Peace Price in
1901, nine years before he died. While the museum was set up
in 1988 to pay tribute to the great humanitarians who had
served under the Red Cross, its vivid footage and sobering
records of man-perpetuated atrocities are enough to put anyone
off the idea of going into war! |

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Just across the Red Cross Museum is the free-entry Ariana
Museum, a grand neo-classical and neo-baroque mansion which
congregates a bountiful collection of beautiful ceramics and
glass from Geneva, Switzerland, Europe and the East, with all
the main techniques of pottery, stoneware, earthenware,
porcelain and china represented. Other peculiar museums worth
a visit are the Philatelic Museum in the Palais des Nations,
the Horology Museum and the Jean Tua (Automobile)
Museum. |
Pretty Carouge
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Tired of "museum-crawling"? Hop on to tram 12 or 13 which
takes one from the city centre, across River Arve, to the
picturesque Sardinian town of Carouge. Rows of pastel-coloured
houses, bedecked with pretty interior courtyards, flowered
gardens, and decorated with carvings and frescoes, spread out
neatly along spacious walks and wide park spaces. King Victor
Amideus built the town in the 17th century to compete with
Geneva. While it never overtook Geneva economically, Carouge
is today a pleasant abode for artists and craftsmen, with lots
of curiosity shops selling antiques, bric-and-bracs and pretty
art and craft. |
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Unique Geneva
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Forewarned was I before I embarked on my trip, that Geneva
is a none-too-exciting place. Maybe not of the superlative
adrenaline-pumping type, but boring Geneva certainly is not. A
lovely charming city it has proved to be, with this writer
having learned to enjoy and savour the unique and harmonious
blend of its distinctly Swiss roots with the internationalism
it has so comfortably
adorned. |
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do visit yen's art blog for works inspired by europe
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