A Dose Of
Nepalese
Warmth
Like the exotic milk tea, which grows
on one,
the natural hospitality of the Nepalese
and the wealth of their culture
prove to be a potent and
unforgettable mix...
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Think Nepal, and scenic images of towering snow-clad mountains
against the Himalayan backdrop come to mind. However, the small
kingdom wedged between China and India is not just home to the
world's tallest mountains. Its diverse and often harsh topographic
features contribute to a superb variety of flora and fauna,
unparalleled elsewhere in the world. It is also a country steeped in
religion and boasts a splendidly rich culture and exquisite art.
Most of all, it is the warmth of the people which shines through and
captivates the heart of many a visitor, including this
writer. |
Touching down at Kathmandu airport, I was not sure what to expect
or how to get to my abode, but Nepalese enthusiasm quickly took care
of that. Before I could fully say "Kathmandu Guest House", I was
whisked off into a van which tore down narrow colourful streets to
bring me to my destination at Thamel in
Kathmandu. |
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Legend has it that the Kathmandu Valley was once a huge
sacred lake which was drained through a channel created by the
stroke of a god's sword, hence the fertility of the soil.
Today, the capital and |
| Nepal's largest city retains
its historical architecture and charm despite the increasing
modernity. There is a fascinating mix of impressive
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stupas (tower-like Buddhist shrines) and other holy
places tucked amongst its quaint medieval streets which are
full of bustling vehicles, motorbikes, bicycles and trishaws.
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Wandering aimlessly through the streets can be an immensely
rewarding experience once one gets the hang of it. The trick is not
to pause, or some taxi or other will mysteriously emerge asking you
to board. Forget about map-reading too, as it would invite all
manners of 'helpful' offers. |
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The colourful shops offer a wonderful range, from the
distinctly Nepalese-styled clothes, hand-knitted jerseys,
embroidered T-shirts, lovely cloth bags, pastel-shade carpets,
beautiful handicraft and jewellery, to a wide array of Newari
art and Tibetan thangkas (elaborate paintings of
religious symbols and figures done on cloth). |
| Bargaining is
part of the fun of shopping here, as with
everything else. Once the transaction is done, all disputes
are forgiven and the price will be honoured. On occasion, I
had the pleasure of being invited to sit and enjoy a bottle of
coke as well!
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Nepal is sacred to the Hindus, because its rivers flow into
the holy Ganges, and sacred to the Buddhists, because it is
the birthplace of Gautama Buddha. Nepal is well-known for its
temples and stupas, a number of which are scattered around the
Kathmandu Valley. |
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The much-revered Pashupatinath temple, dedicated to Shiva the
destroyer and creator, lies on the bank of the Bagmati River. Every
Tuesday and Saturday, sacrificial blood flows freely at the
Dakshinkali temple for the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort.
The huge stupa of Bodhnath - the largest in the country - is located
in the centre of Nepal's Tibetan community. |
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The best known site is perhaps the stupa of Swayambhunath
whose watchful eyes of Buddha grace many a postcard picture of
Nepal. There, I witnessed the deep religious faith of the
devotees as they prostrated themselves after every few steps
at the temple entrance. A series of prayer wheels circling the
base are spun as |
| the pilgrims walk around
the stupa in a clockwise direction. The temple is also home to
a colony of monkeys whose clowning antics amuse both devotees
and visitors alike.
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"250 rupees only", a teenage boy driver offered me for a round
trip to Patan, the second largest city in the valley. It sounded
like a good deal and off I went again on one of those harrowing
drives, weaving miraculously through the frenetic traffic of
vehicles, people and animals and barely scraping past the buildings
on either side! |
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But it was a worthwhile trip. The Durbar Square is a
stunning feast of wondrous architecture, carvings and
sculpture with magnificent temples and vividly decorated
reliefs aplenty. It is the display of Newari handiwork at its
richest grandeur, most of which dating back to the |
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1400s'
cultural renaissance
of the Malla Dynasty. Notable landmarks include the Buddhist
Golden Temple guarded by tortoises in the courtyard, the
double-tiered Jagannarayan Temple, the ancient Kumbeshawar
Temple and the Royal Palace.
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Besides the obvious activity of trekking (which I'm leaving to
another longer trip), mountain biking, white-water rafting and
kayaking are also immensely popular among visitors to the region.
Taking a tourist bus from Kathmandu, I decided to have a taste of
rafting en route to the low-lying Terai region in the south. 
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After three hours of treacherous plying through cliff-hugging
roads, we were finally ejected by the Trisuli River for the rafting
session. A turbulent experience it was not to be. Other than the
occasional rapid, the ride was mostly tranquil, passing by
mud-houses and offering rare glimpses into the lives of the village
inhabitants. |
Arriving at Sauruha after an interesting passage in a local
service bus, crammed to the hilt with locals who somehow managed to
steer a clear path for me to get off, I was greeted by Madi, a young
boy with beautiful expressive eyes who came to fetch me to my
accommodation at Hotel Forest Resort. |
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Once outside the cities, the warm hospitality of the Nepalese
struck me stronger than ever. As I waited in the shelter for the
monsoon rains to pass, kind strangers assured me that it would be
over in "ten minute" (incidentally, a Nepali phrase which could mean
from five minutes to over an hour). I was pleasantly touched when
Madi braved the rains to get me a flask of hot milk
tea. |
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Travelling on the back of Madi's motorbike - backpack and
all - to the resort proved to be a memorable experience.
Barely had we gone fifty metres when the gravel road
disappeared into mud and swamp for the rest of the way. As we
ploughed through the waterlogged wheat fields, I could peer
through the raindrops an endless stretch of
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expansive plains bathed in shimmering yellow
gold, with a bright orange sun perched atop the horizon and
sinking gradually into an unforgettable breathtaking sunset.
More than any photograph, this single image of Nepal was to
remain imprinted on my mind.
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The Royal Chitwan National Park was the reason for my journey to
the Terai, and it did not disappoint. Once the hunting ground for
British and Nepalese aristocrats, the wildlife is protected today
and the animals free to roam on the plains. |
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My friendly hosts at the resort had a number of activities
planned out for me, starting with a jungle walk. A narrow sampan
took us across the river where the trek
began. |
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Being a city dweller, I was none-too-enthused about
rhinoceros sightings, especially when my guide told me
matter-of-factly that I only needed to climb a tree! Still, it
was pretty exciting to be on the trail spotting a rhinoceros
print here and a leopard print there (it was very reassuring
that the park had a clean |
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record of nil incidents!) According
to my guide, I was
"inappropriately" dressed in my white T-shirt. Green and black
are the preferred camouflage colours. This probably meant the
animals could spot me from a mile and go into hiding,
accounting for the tame sightings we had of monkeys, deer and
a number of exotic birds. Not that I was complaining!
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There are, of course, other ways to explore the park. A
jeep ride can go much deeper into the forest where you might
spot a tiger or leopard if you are lucky. I opted for the
elephant ride. Never mind that it was a trifle uncomfortable -
game-watching can be enjoyed with considerably less
trepidation when it's from a safe height! And what a fruitful
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| ride, with the
elephants marching effortlessly into the thick undergrowth and
unearthing a herd of rhinoceros.
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Besides animals, Nepal is also a bird paradise with an astounding
variety of some 800 species. According to my excellent guide on a
bird-watching trip, half of these can be found at Chitwan. I was
amazed at my escort's incredible eyesight, pointing out mere dots in
the distance and describing to perfection the colours and features
of the feathered creatures which I could only view with the aid of
binoculars! |
A typical safari day here would end with spectacular views of the
sun setting on the vast plains, followed by a dose of Nepali
drum-beating, dancing and merrymaking over dinner with the hosts and
other guests. |
My final stop was Pokhara, which makes an ideal place to relax
with its quiet setting beside Phewa Lake and picturesque mountains
all around - much like a Chinese painting. Although it is the other
major trekking point besides Kathmandu, Pokhara exhibits none of the
mad pace of the former. |
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Taking a leisurely stroll by the lake, I was able to enjoy
a book in peace while a group of Nepalese children frolicked
in the waters |
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Pokhara is also a good place to pick up souvenirs with its
excellent mix of shops and restaurants.
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Day tours are available to attractions like the pretty Devi
Falls, the Mahendra limestone caves, the Tibetan monastery
overlooking the Seti River, and the idyllic Begnas Lake.
Nearby Sarangkot provides excellent hill-walking to catch the
sunrise, |
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and the route down by Phewa Lake offers beautiful
views, as well as provides interesting insight into the lives
of the Nepalese farmers who till the harsh land.
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"Nemaste", an adorable little Nepalese girl, called out to
me as I sat by the lake, an echo of the many friendly gestures
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and overwhelming
generosity shown to me in this economically poor, yet
spiritually rich, country. It is no wonder that many
travellers are drawn back to Nepal. The scenic splendours,
cultural treasures, and most of all, its special people, make
for an irresistible combination. Like the warm addictive milk
tea, which I have come to love, and will return to savour one
day.
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travel notes
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A number of airlines operate into Nepal's only international
airport at Kathmandu, such as Singapore Airlines, Lufthansa and
Royal Nepal Airlines. Sit on the right to catch the mountains when
flying in. Visa is required and can be applied on arrival at the
airport. Remember to provide for airport tax on departure.
For domestic travel, cheap tourist buses ply between Kathmandu,
Chitwan (Sauruha) and Pokhara. Domestic flight services by Royal
Nepal Airlines and other operators are also available; fares paid in
cash or travellers cheques only. |
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There is a wide range of hotels here ranging from the top-end at
US$50-150, moderate range at US$15-50, to 'no-star' establishments
for as little as US$3-10. |
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October-November for the dry season and clear visibility,
followed by February-April for the rhododendrons
bloom. |
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Currency: Nepalese rupee
Health: Take tablets to protect against malaria if visiting
Chitwan. Consult your doctor for other precautions.
Nepal Tourism Board: www.welcomenepal.com
e-mail :
info@ntb.wlink.com.np |
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