Taking a cruise boat from Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, my first stop was at the popular domain of the Loch Ness Monster (also known affectionately as Nessie). The loch (meaning 'lake'), estimated to be at least 700 feet deep, is the single largest body of water in Scotland, and indeed in the United Kingdom.

There was a riotous atmosphere on board with plenty of binocular-toting tourists. Dark and murky, the waters were suitably brimming with mysterious shadows which no doubt contributed to the numerous sightings. Unfazed by the monster mania, I was more intent on enjoying the sights from the cruise boat which climaxed with the approach to the impressive Urquhart Castle, perched dramatically on the edge of the loch.

One of Scotland's best known castles, Urquhart was fought over by practically everyone who passed this way, including Edward I of England

A drawbridge leads to the sprawling castle ruins, which inspired a sense of fascination in me as I wondered about the countless battles fought here and the powers that had been. The five-storey tower house in

From Urquhart, it's only a short drive to Drumnadrochit where one can visit the Official Loch Ness Monster Exhibition Centre. What is interesting about the hour-long audiovisual presentation is not so much any proof of

Curving round the beautiful Loch Broom, something glittering caught my eye. The delightful gem turned out to be Ullapool, a fishing port teeming with colourful sailing boats and pretty white cottages.

This being a long summer's day when it wouldn't get dark till around ten, I had time to take a hike up a neighbouring hill, from where there were stunning views of the triangular-stripped Ullapool and the serene Loch Broom framed by towering mountains all around. It was a top-of-the-world feeling, with the winds blowing under the clear blue skies. I could also make out islets in the distance, set out mysteriously and seductively against the rays of the setting sun.

From Ullapool, one can take a ferry to the most northerly island in the Hebrides, the Isle of Lewis, famous for the Standing Stones of Callanish dating back to the Bronze Age. There are also cruises to spot dolphins, otters,

The route from Ullapool to the Kyle of Lochalsh seems like one endless passage of curves and bends around a wonderful coastline boasting of fine beaches and bays. In particular, Gruinard Bay makes a good picnic point with its pretty sand patterns and multi-coloured stones.

Another pleasant stop is Victoria Falls, off beautiful Loch Marae.

The road winding down to Lochalsh offers a spectacular glimpse of the Isle of Skye linked to the mainland by an arched bridge, which is incidentally the most expensive toll bridge in the world at some twenty odd pounds for one-way only! The other way to get to the island is to take a ferry and emulate the boat flight of Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie), disguised as the maid of Highlands heroine Flora MacDonald, to escape the Hanoverians after the Jacobite defeat at the Battle of Culloden.

If you have time to visit only one Scottish isle, Skye is it, with its famous panoramic Cuillins mountain range and glorious coastal scenery. "Skye" derives from the Norse word "skuy" meaning 'cloud' - an apt description of the constantly changing weather conditions here (every half-hour or so during my visit!). Gaelic is still widely spoken by the tiny population of the island, which is steeped in history of the tussles between the Highland clans of the MacDonalds and the McLeods.

My abode here was the SYHA Youth Hostel in Kyleakin, just after the Skye

North of Portree, the Trotternish Peninsula offers Skye's best seascape with magnificent sheer cliffs and sandy bays. Watch out in particular for the dramatic rock column called the Old Man of Storr, the spectacular Kilt Rock, and the fascinating Duntulm Castle ruins.

Inland, the rocky Red and Black Cuillins are immensely popular for Munro Bagging. This national sport which involves climbing mountains over 3000 feet originated in 1891 when one Sir Hugh T Munro published his list of such peaks in Scotland. Fifteen of the twenty peaks in Skye are Munros which make for wonderful walking and offer great views for the adventurously-inclined - just make sure you are reasonably fit and properly equipped.

Back to the mainland, en route to Fort William, a visit to the Eilean Donan Castle is a must. This is the famous "Highlanders" castle whose setting at Loch Duich makes it one of the most atmospheric and photogenic castles.

The original castle was actually ruined in a Jacobite uprising in 1719 but it was rebuilt earlier this century, purportedly to the specifications of a man with recurring dreams of how the castle had looked.

The castle is best admired from the outside although one can visit the interior which only has a few rooms.

Fort William is a major tourist centre which makes for a good supplies stop and a convenient base for exploring the mountains around, most notably Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain at 4406 feet. Ben means 'mountain' and glen

Given the brilliant sunny weather and the clear blue skies during my stay at Glen Nevis - a rarity by Scottish standards - I decided to venture on the popular hike up Ben Nevis. Let not the streams of people on the path, adults and children alike, fool you into thinking this to be an easy climb. It took this writer four gruelling hours to trudge up the seemingly endless zigzag rock-strewn path before I stumbled upon the summit (pant!).

Thankfully, the weather at the top remained clear and there were excellent views all round, including the paradise-like Glen Coe in the distance. There are also some interesting ruins of an old observatory here. The summit, however, is not a place where one would dwell long. Covered with huge boulders and rocks, one has to be careful and watch one's step or it'll be a long drop down the sheer cliff face of Ben Nevis!

Ironically, Scotland's most famous glen was also the site of the grisly murders of the MacDonalds by the Campbells in 1692, known as the Glen Coe Massacre. Just because the chief of the MacDonalds had been late in

Glencoe Village, which has plenty of pretty cottage B&Bs, lies by the glacier-like Loch Leven. If one is not into serious hikes, there is a lovely patch of woodlands beside the village with easy trails and plenty of signposts. The woods were originally created by Lord Strathcona, who was Governor of the Hudson's Bay company and High Commissioner for Canada, to make his Canadian wife Isabella feel more at home in Scotland. The shortest walk is around the Lochan which provides superb mirror reflections of the surrounding peaks on a clear day.

© Ong Hwee Yen 1999