From Thimphu, we set off on a long relaxing drive into another world of idyllic pace as we left the bustle (by Bhutanese standards) of the capital behind us and enjoyed the poetic scenery, embarking on a remarkable voyage along the endless winding road cut into the lovely lush valleys. Even the Bhutanese looked different here, being darker-skinned and looking more like familiar Southeast Asians (i.e. us!) than the fairer Bhutanese with exotic Tibetan features that we had mostly met thus far.
As the climate is more temperate here, we saw more of the rhododendrons that we had tried so hard to find during our trek. But the real beauty that got us all excited here were the magnolias which we spotted for the first time. “Stop!!!”, we’d screamed at the top of our voices, giving our driver, Sherab, a major heart attack every time we caught sight of the lovely yet melancholic white-flowered trees.
I was also amused to see the colourfully decorated trucks they use here to transport construction and other materials. They are the same type of trucks we use back home… but for funerals! I am really enjoying this journey east..
Punakha
It was a mild warm-up by all accounts as we continued our excursion to Punakha, arriving at the “mother of all spectacular attractions” in the late afternoon, and I mean SPECTACULAR. First the location, it can’t get any more dramatic than this. The Punakha Dzong, seat of past Kings and Lamas before the capital moved from Punakha to Thimphu, was strategically built at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chuu, meaning male and female rivers respectively, by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel in 1637.
As if the sight wasn’t enough to blow us away, there were super strong winds whooshing as we crossed the suspension bridge over the glacier waters to get to the huge dzong dominating the valley floor. To add to the surrealistic feel, black birds were fluttering all over like bats making quite a racket. What a drama entrance!
As we climbed up the very vertical imposing entrance, we were simply enthralled by the cinematic proportions of it all. Everything looked so rich and newly constructed. The dzong’s “destruction record” reads as six fires, an earthquake in 1897 and frequent devastations by floodwaters from the great northern glaciers. And now it has just been fully restored to its original splendour.
This was one mammoth fortress, the most humongous one of all the dzongs we visited, measuring some 180m by 72m in area. And yet we were told it was not the biggest. It certainly was one of the most beautiful. Even without being allowed entry into most of the buildings, it was a treasure trove (actually more like an imperial palace) of breathtaking resplendent structures and glittering exquisite decorations galore. Tourists like us were wandering around in wonder and admiration at the impossibly grand scale of everything.
And this is a “living” dzong, the missing jigsaw piece to the other dzongs we visited in Thimphu (see Trashi Chhoe Dzong & Phajoding Goemba). In fact, I recalled seeing a model of the Punakha Dzong at Thimphu’s National Library which we visited just that same morning. Formerly called the Winter Capital because of its more temperate climate, the Punakha Dzong is till today, the winter residence of the State monks and Je Khenpo, leader of Bhutan’s religious order. The penny finally dropped. So this was the warm place where all the monks went!
The place was certainly abuzz with “monk-ly” activities, as we moved from courtyard to courtyard. At the final temple where visitors were allowed entry, I was to have one unforgettable experience that ranks as one of the most superb and surrealistic moments of my travels anywhere…
Softly treading our way into the giant awesome hall with imposing columns, we walked amidst numerous young monks crouched over their spread-out scriptures on the ancient floor doing their “homework” chants, and visited the magnificent altar with the biggest Buddha figures I had ever seen adorned in glittering gold, no less. It felt so unreal I was in a trance-like state, feeling as if I was transported into the scene of many a Shaolin gongfu film I used to love watching as a kid…
Needless to say, the Punakha Dzong is definitely one of my most favourite places in Bhutan, and without doubt, The Coolest!
It was getting dark as we got off on our last stop for the day, trampled through a wet padi field and climbed up a steep hill. Huff puff. All to visit the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, apparently newly built in 1999 to ward off demons for the current (and apparently very handsome) Crown Prince when he ascends the throne. Once inside, it was more climbing to the top of the chorten to see the main Buddha artefact.
The views of the surrounding valley fields from the hill were beautiful but we had to hurry down before it got pitch dark. Kencho, our tour guide, may have owl’s eyes but I was blind as a bat and stumbled back to our vehicle, getting my shoes wet in the process.
But it had been a wonderful day, and we relaxed in a modest but comfy hotel for the night. Punakha is warmer and a peaceful place, with bountiful fields which proved fruitful in more ways than one. The reigning four Queens are sisters who hail from this very valley, no less!
Wangdue Phodrang
After a restful slumber, we set off on another full day starting with nearby Wangdue. We could see the 1638 Wangdue Dzong perched dramatically at the edge of the cliff overlooking the Punak Chhu river which we had to cross to enter Central Bhutan proper. It was a pleasant ancient-looking dzong which gave it a very authentic feel. I like it for its unpretentious atmosphere.
Just like the town itself, an amiable place with quaint low houses and a bustling market place. The produce here certainly looked fresher and choicer than at Thimphu. Most of all, the kids livened up the place with their playfulness. As usual, they simply loved to be photographed, especially one particularly impish boy. My friend, Yun, was again the popular one as he played Santa giving out sweets that ran out in double quick time.
It is said that Wangdue Phodrang, or Wangdi’s Palace, was so named by the founder of the dzong, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, after he met a small boy Wangdi playing in the sand on the river banks. Charming story, much like the place.
From Wangdue, it was a lovely drive to Gangte, following a glacial river down a lush valley dotted with pretty houses that looked like Swiss chalets, as Lonely Planet describes them. Then it was one long undulating ascent as we delved deeper and deeper into the high mountains with occasional peeks of the Himalayas.
En route, we encountered some snow-caped monkeys and stopped to watch their antics. I really enjoyed this ride and wished it could go on forever.
Our lunch place at the little village of Nobding (altitude 2640m) was, unfortunately, closed. So we had to go hungry and had a really late lunch that day only on our way back at Wangdue.
So we ploughed on higher and higher till we reached a sign welcoming us to Phobjikha Valley. Yeah! But it was only the start of a rocky road that our vehicle had to climb up ever so slowly.
Fortunately, it was all worth it as we reached the top and turned inwards into the stunning Phobjikha Valley (altitude 2900m). Wow! I thought we had arrived at the Shire in “Lord of the Rings”. It was simply beautiful and we had to demand a photo stop. The landscape reminded me of Europe but the houses looked Japanese, especially with the peach blossoms.
We were so excited and couldn’t stop clicking away. As we ambled past the grazing cattle and houses, we managed to stop working farmers in their tracks literally. Yep, posing time.
Kencho was more concerned with enquiring with the locals if there were black necked cranes which this area is famous for. During winter, the endangered migratory birds come here from the high plains of the Tibetan plateau for the milder climate. The news must be negative because Kencho looked apologetic but we were not bothered at all, so thrilled were we at this paradise.
No, we were not too disappointed either that we didn’t get to visit the 17th century Gangte Goemba which was closed for construction. Win some lose some, that’s what travelling is all about.
The centrepiece of the Phobjikha Valley was the very well equipped US-sponsored Information Centre, strategically located with large viewing panels offering panoramic snapshots of the valley. Phobjikha had no electricity lines to protect the cranes, which only made the landscape more picturesque and unspoilt by unsightly lines, although it must have been inconvenient for the residents.
We saw a couple of eagles circling in the distance but no cranes, except for a dead one hanging quite grossly from the ceiling of the Centre. Apparently it was killed by a cat and hung up there with the fake cranes. The Bhutanese sure have a bizarre sense of humour.
I really loved this place, apart from the coldness. So it was good when we made our way to the cosy Phuntsho Chholing Guest House, a relaxing idyllic haven for tea and the addictive Bhutanese titbits. Ah, we were so contented here I wished we were staying forever. But we had one heck of a long drive back to Thimphu, sigh.
So it was with great reluctance and immense sadness that we had to say adieu to the gorgeous “Shire”, the magnificent Himalayan range, the captivating Wangdue, the glorious highlands, the lush valleys, the poetic “Swiss chalets”, even the dead black neck crane.. I must return to Central Bhutan one day… yes.
