Today Bhutan is open to tourists with a budget strictly not of
the shoestring variety, and provided the trips are kept within defined
restrictions. This system of imposing high prices for the privilege of a
glimpse into the protected land acts as a ‘natural’
cap on the number of visitors, the result of a deliberate policy to avoid
the destructive effects of opening to all and sundry which was the
experience of its illustrious

neighbour, Nepal. The seemingly overzealous isolationist measure
certainly hurt our pockets, but having visited both countries, I could
understand the rationale and even support it, unless a
better way can be found to allow genuine and responsible visitors without
importing the undesirable influences of unfettered tourism. In any case,
the journey was for us, worth every cent we expended. And
more…
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Especially when we went at a most
tumultuous of times for any sort of travel. The Iraq war had
started. Then the first cases of the dreaded ailment, otherwise
known as SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome),
emerged, that was to continue to have a devastating effect on our
social lives long after we returned to
Singapore. Finally, we read about an earthquake in Bhutan measuring
5.5 on the Richter scale just a couple of days
before we set off. Suffice to say, it felt almost like a
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| miracle when we took off from Bangkok on the small
Druk Air flight, the national carrier of Bhutan. This
was only one of two ways for foreigners to enter
the country, the other being by a road route via India.
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It was one quaint flight. The last three rows of seats also acted
as cargo hold with overflowing luggage, no doubt due to the
country’s nationals trying to make the most of their rare ‘shopping
trips’ to |
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Bangkok. As we were to learn
later, foreign amenities were hard to come by in Bhutan and most
were from India or Thailand. In fact, we found ourselves also part
of the postman network, carrying a baby pram and
an assortment of other items that were meant for delivery to various
people in Bhutan, including the Queen herself!
But that is another story. Long before we sat foot on Paro airport,
we had already been treated to the hospitality
of the country by our wonderful tour operator, Mr Sangay Tshering,
and his |
Singaporean wife, Sara, of Yeti Tours &
Treks. Such was the intimacy of arranging a trip to
Bhutan where everything was done by hand on a personal basis,
right up to the checking-in of luggage at Bangkok airport by
Druk Air’s staff instead of a ground handling agent.
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So with a huge dose of anticipation, we cruised down Paro valley
with an airport elevation of 2235m. Stepping off the plane, we had our
first encounter with the elaborate Bhutan architecture. The airport terminal looked like a temple! Thus began our magical tour
of the
land stilled in time…
First things first, we had to unload the ‘mail’ and luggage, although
my friend, Jen, was already in a snapping frenzy as we drove slowly on
what appeared to be a single road going round and round the
Paro valley.