Our April 2007 trip report can be found here Please click
Though I think we were all as prepared as we could have been for the 'trek' both mentally and physically nothing I know could have prepared us for the experience of seeing (and feeling) the awesome majesty and the power of the Himalayas that surrounded us each day. Sometimes we could only stand and look as any words said would seem meaningless.
Hopefully I have managed to capture some of this in the following photographs.
These photographs are part of a series of photographs to be used in a forth coming book 'Trek for Life' In Memory of Krista. All proceeds of which will go to The Breast Cancer Campaign.
All photographs taken by Paul Oldfield ( unless otherwise stated).
Lukla Airport with a view looking north up the Dudh Koshi valley.
The view looking east from our Lodge at Monjo.
The view looking east from Monjo
The Dudh Koshi valley between Jorsale and Larja Dobhan just inside the Sagarmatha National Park.
The Larja Dobhan bridge crossing. Beyond the bridge was our first real test. The climb up to Namche Bazar.
Our first view of Everest, behind the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge about half way up on the acsent to Namche.
At the gateway to Namche Bazar. Our Lodge just happened to be the highest one in the photo.
Namche Bazar.
Another view of the 'Sherpa capital'.
View of Thamserku east of Namche Bazar.
Tina and Nikki taking in the view from the near the Everest View point east of Jaro on our acclimatization walk from Namche Bazar.
Peaks along the east of the Dudh Koshi from above Khumjung.
Ama Dablam (6886 meters) from near Khumjung. Taken on our acclimatization day from Namche Bazar.
The Pine Woods between Khunde and Namche Bazar. A couple of excellent 'bird waves' were seen here with species noted being Grey Crested Tit, Rufous-vented and Rufous-fronted Tit, Coal Tit, White-winged Grosbeck, Goldcrest, Pink-browed Rosefinch, Ashy-throated and Lemon-rumped Warblers. Other birds of note in the area included Blue-fronted Redstart, Olive-backed and Rosy Pipits, Himalayan Griffon Vulture and Wallcreeper.
Looking down at Namche Bazar on our acclimatization day walk. The slopes above Namche were mostly Juniper scub.
A view looking south down the Dudh Koshi Valley towards Jorsale and the entrance to the National Park near Monjo. The photograph was taken near Namche. The photo shows what a steep ascent it was from the Dudh Koshi river.
Spin drift coming of the top of Everest.
Looking towards Tengboche from near Kyangjuma which is a few kilometers along the trail north east of Namche. Everest is the high peak left of middle.You can clearly see the trail on the left hand side of the valley. Tengboche (3860 meters) is on the top of the ridge in the center of the picture.You can just make out the square shaped Monastary.
The stream at Phunki Tenga below the last tea house before the water driven prayer wheels. Excellent spot this with species such as Little Forktail, Brown Dipper, Blue Whistling Thrush and White-capped Water Redstart being very confiding here. These were however eclipsed by a superb White-gorgeted Flycatcher seen on the opposite side of the stream. Warblers seen here included Lemon-rumped, Buff-barred, Ashy-throated, Humes and Whistlers.
The wood on the lower part of the ascent up to Tengboche from Phunki Tenga was very productive bird wise with species such as Blood Pheasant, Rusty-flanked and Eurasian Treecreepers, White-browed Bush Robin, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Long-tailed Thrush and Darjeeling Woodpecker seen.
The Phungi Khola valley below Tengboche with Kangtega (left, 6685 meters) and Thamserku (6608 meters). This photgraph was taken half way up the steep ascent to Tengboche.
View of the Imja Khola Valley looking north-east from Tengboche.
And another.
The forest opposite the Monastary at Tengboche. An excellent early mornings birding was had here with excellent views of Blood Pheasant about half way up the wood. Other species seen here included Black-faced Laughingthrush, Orange-flanked Bush Robin, Dark-throated Thrush and Rusty-flanked Treecreeper.
The crew outside the Monastery at Tengboche.
What a view.
Sunset shot looking west from Tengboche at Khumbi Yul Lhe (left peak, 5761 meters) and the rest of the Khumuche Himal range.
Sunset shot of Ama Dablam from Tengboche.
Everest sunset from Tengboche.
Another view of the valley south east of Tengboche with Thamserku. This photograph was taken from the top of the ridge at Tengboche.
The terraced fields at Pangboche looking south west down the Imja Khola valley towards Tengboche which is on the ridge in the center of the valley.
Male Himalayan Monel on the highest fields at Pangboche. At least three males and a single female were seen very well early morning on April 16th. Less expected but much appreciated was an superb male Kessler's Thrush and a pair of Spot-winged Grosbecks along with two male Kalij Pheasants and small flocks of Eurasian Blackbirds and Dark-throated Thrushes.
Beautiful Rosefinch outside our Lodge at Pangboche
The view from our Lodge at Pangboche.
Just north of Pangboche you can see a huge scar in the landscape that was once the Mingbo Glacier that has now receeded up the mountain . A very visual reminder of Global warming.
One of the few flat bits of the trek between Pangboche and Dingboche.
Looking up the Imja Khola valley towards Dingboche. Birds seen in the valley included Great Rosefinch and Ibisbill.
Robin Accentor near Dingboche.
YAK.
Looking down from 'the ridge' (!) above Dingboche and the Imja Khola valley. Yes it was a steep climb and yes, it was hard work (about 4600 meters). Birds up here included Tibetan Snowcock (3), White-tailed Rubythroat, Robin, Altai and Alpine Accentors as well as Plain and Brandt's Mountain Finches.
A view of Ama Dablam from Dingboche with a Lammergeier.
Above Dingboche on our acclimatization day at about 4650 metres. Taboche Peak (6367 metres) and Cholatse (6367 metres) are behind. Photo taken by Mingma.
View of the Lobuche Khola valley north of Pheriche. The highest peak in this photograph is Cholatse.The photo was taken from the ridge above Dingboche. Out of frame to the right of the valley is Dughla where we had to turn back because of the snow conditions.
Early morning snow at Dingboche..
'The ridge' in the background is where we climbed to on our acclimatization day. The snow was to get increasingly worse as we headed for Dughla with 'white outs' and blizzards as well as the trail becoming very difficult to follow. We were forced to stop at the Lodge at Dughla, about half way towards our intended destination for the day, Lobuche, where we sat out the storm along with another three trekking groups
.
Having spent the afternoon and night at Dughla with the temperature dropping to -15 over-night it was still snowing the following day. We took a group decision not to go on to Lobuche and Base Camp. The weather conditions were just to bad. So unfortunatley this is as near to Base Camp we were going to get (4620 meters, 15157 feet) but we made the decision here that we would come back and try again in the next few years. We have unfinished business in Nepal.
The Lodge at Dughla.
Brandt's Mountain Finch at Dughla.
Same view as before from Pangboche. Bit more snow.
View of the Imja Khola valley between Pangboche and Tengboche (about 3900 meters) on our way down. Our third day in the snow.
Ama Dablam in the snow. As you can see from the photo the trails were often 'close to the edge' and were very icy in places making for very slow going. The views were amazing though.
The bridge north of Tengboche before Millinggo and the Rhododendron forest. Snow clouds below Tengboche.
The Monastery at Tengboche
Between Tengboche and Namche Bazar. This part of the trek should have taken us about five hours from Pangboche. It took us nearly nine.
Namche Bazar in the snow.
The climb out of the Sagarmatha National Park near the entrance at Monjo.
The Dudh Koshi river just north of Phakding.
One of my favorite 'lowland' birding spots. Roughly in the center of Phakding take the small trail east, south of the blue bridge up a steep bank. Birds seen here included Spotted and Black-faced Laughingthrushes, White-collared Blackbird, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ultramarine, Slaty-blue and Rufous-gorgeted Flycatchers, White-browed and Nepal Fulvettas, Rufous Sibia and Oriental Turtle Doves.
Prayer stones near Chheplung
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