NZ Chinchilla Rescue

CONTENTS
* IMPORTANT NOTE TO READ - Warnings about Myths
* Chinchillas & Stress
   To Help Avoid Stress
* Operation's
   Understanding Operations & Risks
   Pre-Operation
   Anesthesia
   Analgesia
   Post-Operation
   Understanding Care by Vet
   Immediate Post-Operative Care
   Immediate Post-Operative Care, Arriving Home
   Recovery/Emergency Formula
   Syringe Feeding Technique
* Illnesses & Aliments
* Posionus Plants & Plant Poisoning Symptoms
   Plant Poisoning
* Fungal Infection
   Understanding Fungal
   Causes
   Treatment & Understanding of Vet diagnosis
* Vital Statistics
* Chinchillas: NOT "Allergy-Free"
* Leave your Comments or Questions 

Important Note

There is so much conflicting Advice, how do I know what to listen too?

I get asked this allot, I also get told by some they just take what they need from the conflicting advice around and so, so many end up not taking facts seriously but choose to by-pass it for what ever so reason, and so this section is to help clarify about conflicting advice over the web and in books.

The Chinchilla world is full of myths that are far too often mistaken for fact, or another way to put it, Opinions are mistaken for fact, this is practically over-flowing all over the Internet and Books included.  Allot of us over the world including myself do our best to put these right but sadly Myths and Opinions out weigh this and we end up been ignored - until the people eventually end up suffering the consequences and find out the hard way, this could be sooner or much later on in the Chins life, or it could be that person puts that problem to 'Old Age', but a more common occurrence the Chin is moved on to a different home and so that original person never experiences the consequences, and so carry's on under the impression and belief those myths are facts.

Myths are dangerous because they can also be life threatening I cannot stress this enough, an simple example of this is Exercise Balls, Green Food and Exercise Wheels with spokes.  In my Rescue work I have witnessed first hand far to many breeders who have had 10+ years breeding experience, recommending and giving incorrect advice that is far from not been for the health and welfare of the Chinchilla, they should know best yes but usually it is because they have lucked out with their own Chinchillas, or they have been blind.   Allot of problems caused by Myths in Breeding situations also can take a few or more generations to come out and show itself, Breeders who go by luck, Opinions and Myths are not dedicated enough in their breeding to know what has come out during this time, or allot of these Breeders do not breed 'forever' so any issues that would come about from the Myths they never witness.

Books and Internet:  A wonderful source to research, especially new owners and even people who have owned chins for a while but need more knowledge.  The most common place people receive conflicting information and advice is Forums, Sites and Books written by Pet Owners or Breeders such as the ones I was talking about in the above paragraph, beginner sites or sites where the information is based on "what I was told".  Sites and Books with Conflicting advice and Information stand strong and are very vocal just the same as those who's knowledge are based on Facts and experiences.  I am not saying at all that we should not listen or be nasty in anyway, many people only want what is best for the Chinchilla, but I am saying to be aware that anyone can give advice, do a book and a site and make it very convincing with their experience etc, so in order to sift out Myth and Opinions from Fact - you should seek further advice, it is best to ask questions of the reasons why they believe this to be, do not fall for answers such as  "I have had no problems",  "It has worked for me" or "the person I got him off told me so".  

For example, especially in Health-related matters, Advice and Information from people such Exotic Specialists, Chinchilla Vets and Chinchilla Specialists such as myself, or any person who has had similar solid experiences or where that persons advice and knowledge actually stems from people like them etc, are indispensable to any responsible Chin Owner, the source of their advice and information is not based on Opinions or Myths or just Layman experience, but scientific, solid, concrete evidence AND experiences.  If you do become confused at the conflicting advice sort people such as these out before putting it to use. 

I am in no way saying Breeders, Pet Owners, Forums, Sites etc all have incorrect information and advice, in fact you can very much trust so many Responsible Breeders out there.  With Breeders, you can find out if they are safe to take and use their advice based on their methods of Breeding, for example whether that person gives Guarantees on their Stock (not wishful or just to sell type of Guarantees).  Any Responsible Breeder who's Advice and Information is used in their experience as a Breeder, Guaranteeing their Stock to buyers reinforces they have done everything correctly and safely therefore guaranteeing is another safe way you can trust them.

Here is a Poll that I encourage everyone to take.  It is to show just how hard it is to spot something wrong with a Chinchilla, and to show a perfect example of a Myth.  The problem with one of these Chinchillas is to with something internally and it is genetic, which can easily be prevented by a Responsible Breeder.

I will post the answer and results up as soon as there are 20 votes, or you are welcome to email and ask after you have voted :)

Chinchillas do not have sweat glands, so they need a daily dust bath of 10 - 20 minutes a day.  Dusting is a natural stress release for them too, in a debate of dusting times I went to a friend and mentor (Brian Pollard ebonydragon please also see his site in the Links section) pointed out to me that in the wild they have access to this all the time, something very simple I thought but also something people forget or fail to learn.  So a few times a week is not enough.

Stress really depends on the nature of the chinchilla in question.  To avoid stress they should not be brought for children under 12, as children get impatient and no matter how good they are they do pester, not only that, especially young Chinchillas, their energy level’s and attention span is comparable to a small child so if you could imagine this mix.

Many books and info say to leave your chinchilla alone and do not hold it, let the chin come to you, use treats etc.  These are all Myths.  One book I brought to illustrate such info says. The first days and weeks you should be very reserved in interacting with the animal.  How much time the Chinchilla needs in order to get settled depends on how tame it is to begin with and how timid it is.  Reduce all care-giving chores such as feeding, to the bare minimum.  Move slowly and speak softly around the animal so you don’t alarm or frighten it (source: Chinchillas A Complete Pet Owners Manual).  This does make sense, and I wanted to show both sides of this.  They are creatures strictly wired by instinct, this of course tells them to be very wary, just as you see wild Birds and Mice, it all tells them to be very cautious around all potential predators which in a chins eyes also, that is what we are regardless whether we like it or not. 

So when a person is cautious, standing back, observing it and quiet without
establishing contact directly, the chin will of course naturally become stressed with ease, even some cases I have seen first hand turning into shock.  This is just what we would be like if cornered by predators in a flimsy cage, we would become very stressed and scared.  To a chinchilla, we move and look like a Predator, when doing all this it just confirms their instinct of us, an important thing to remember.

Chinchillas observe/study and learn how to react from their environments including every living thing in it from Furniture, Plant’s to living creatures, it is instinct.  To the poor chin it is just waiting for something terrible to happen, so you need to make the chin face it’s fears and realise that you are NOT a threat.  It cannot learn this if humans and it’s environment is ‘stand-offish’ (if you have other Pets watch their behaviour to as they especially Cats can torment without been anywhere near the cage, as they are predators by Nature, why you should also never let chins out with other animals), so they need you to break this, for you to make the first move not them, just remember in their minds you will hurt them! 

With that, you must establish contact straight away, IMMEDIATELY upon arrival.

Hold them securely, scratch behind the ear and under the chin, talk allot to it and do all of this gently!!  Do this for a while, then put it back into the cage.  Straight away offer a Dust Bath for about 4 minutes.  You would be giving this 10 - 20 minutes a day but when new, it is a great way to offer your chin encouragement, so you can break this time up so they get lots of little baths, this helps relieve any stress and tension.  Offering Treats to new chins encourages ‘Addicts’ (not only been bad for them. Their bodies are not designed for treats like Raisins, nuts, seeds etc) and you really do not want a Chin to relate you to a treat tin later on, but a friend.

This strict importance of first contact gives you the opportunity to prove yourself to it, showing it has nothing to worry about, again they are ‘prey’ so first contact is needed or it will cause stress, you will notice the chin will take a long time to get used to you otherwise, in all that time been wary when there is no need. 

Fur Slipping is not avoidable and may happen with your new chin so do not be concerned.  But a gentle approach and handling will help and is needed, and may stop Fur Slip.  It also all depends on the chin to whether it will fur-slip.  Personally with my own, and I know of other breeders who are the same, have no problem with their chinchillas and Fur Slip.  I will go into more detail on Fur Slip a bit later.

A nervous, high-strung (either to many raisins in a week, or the breeding are common issues) or a chin that has no or little handling will do it.  Even with doing all this is it may still happen, it is instinct and instinct is something humans cannot control.  If first contact is not made it will stress and lose fur, or even chew it’s fur known as Fur Chewing/Biting.  

Be persistent, handle it for 5-6 minutes once DAILY, longer if feel you can. You'll be able to tell when your chinchilla starts to relax and warm up to you, recognising you which will happen the first time.  Some chins are very vocal and like some people over exaggerate, they scream, ‘gruff’, grind their teeth and even ‘pee’ on you which is another defence like Fur Slip.  Do not let this put you off as so many do, and this is exactly what the Chinchilla wants, so you must do it. 

Once this first contact procedure starts to work, then you are safe to leave your chin to it, after a little longer you can start to offer suitable healthy treats. 

Do not keep the whole house quiet, keep the TV on (at a sensible level of course), do your normal daily chores.  Chinchillas are strict routine animals, if they do not have this it will also cause stress, this is a common stress causer for owners, just use common sense and do not ‘party’ so to say.  If you are keeping everything quiet and it is not normal, not what you or your family usually do then once the chinchilla finally settles in and you get back to normal, it will stress because of these new things and new noises.  If you have young children that scream or are very noisy, do not get a chinchilla, no amount of routine will help this.  Wait until they understand in respecting these animals, again chins are not good children’s Pets.

To Help Avoid Stress

* Daily regular interacting and bonding is needed even for a new chinchilla to ensure happiness, security and fulfilment.  

* Chins must be kept indoors in a climate-controlled atmosphere, this helps prevent stress, temperature must not be hot or to warm.  Garages/Sheds without Air-conditioning and heat control (to help keep the temperature similar, not for making it warm) Fluctuate to much.

* Keep noises at a sensible level i.e. screaming children, yelling, loud music, animals including Parrots.

* Keep the cage in a well vented area but at the same time away from all drafts, windows, doors.  This goes opposite to with not keeping it near heaters or fires.

* Keep away from direct sunlight or in a sunny room.

* Keep breeding rooms clean and tidy, do not over breed, over crowd, separate Male and Female near due date, rotate babies if needed (3+ babies), Hand feed if needed, do not let babies fight, feed proper diet to suit mums needs.

* Make sure no small children and/or other animals have access to the cage or the chin, so poking and tormenting does not occur.

* Feed a proper diet of proper commercial chinchilla pellets, good suitable Hay, and healthy treats, not sweet treats like dried fruit.

* Have a large Cage to suit your Chinchillas needs with suitable toys and other suitable chews available in the Cage, this is very important.

* Do NOT let your chinchilla out with other animals.  Cats, no matter what the Nature are Predators, Birds, even small birds the flapping sound can trigger stress due to the Chinchillas instinct.

* When moving to a new house, leave the chin until last, so it is not left at the new house alone without familiar voices.  Make sure when you take it also, it is not hot or raining, take the day off work if it is needed.  If it is hot or raining put in a Dust Bath for the trip, and keep the carry cage covered with ice packs over it so it is kept at normal temperature.  With the Dust, if it is hot, place the Bath in the freezer for a while before the trip, this was suggested by a friend ‘Picxiechins’ and works a treat.  Do not leave the chin to settle in even if it is used to you, comfort it, talk to it, handle it.

*These all help prevent Stress, just remember all Chinchillas are individuals and different things cause different out comes, keep an open mind.

Operation’s

Understanding Operations & Risks

 

It is very interesting in the fact that so many people are put off by getting surgery’s done in Chinchillas whatever that might be i.e. Neutering, even some Vets are not very confident, or have no confidents at all in these animals (possibly because the Vet does not know or has little knowledge/no experience in them).  It is important to have a more in depth understanding of risks, other than the common saying of ‘they are just to sensitive so why risk it’.

I will use Neutering for an example since this is more commonly talked about and what I get asked about the most.  People buy one chinchilla, then feel they need to get another for whatever reason that maybe (I will go into compatible sexes in a different section), the most common thing people do is get the opposite sex to what they have, some cases people, including some Pet Shops and some breeders, sell what they think is a F/F pairing when it ends up been a F/M pairing.  Letting Chinchillas have even one litter takes very careful planning for both parents and future babies, if not mum and/or babies are always at risk and they can run into serious problems or even lead to death, these are very common emergencies and rescues I deal with on a regular basis, and that of course can be easily prevented.

When it comes to neutering one of the Chinchillas, people do not want to risk the Operation, but would rather let them have babies, some common thoughts I have encountered are ‘if they breed they breed’, or ‘I don’t want to there is to much of a risk, I would not mind babies anyway, they are cute’.  This is a selfish way of thought.  In fact another way to look at it, is there is more of a risk for the Female, allowing her to get pregnant and have babies (under a person who is not knowledged enough/properly), than what it is for the Male to be neutered.

The risks of neutering are not involved in anyway with the procedure, but with the type of and balance of anaesthesia and the oxygen balance during the surgery.  I find many Vets in NZ do not educate people probperly about this or inform them fully of what the risks are.

Other factors also play an important part in how risky the operation maybe such as:

Health:  not giving a proper diet i.e. incorrect vitamins and minerals, feeding to many treats, feeding other animal foods such as Rabbit/Guinea Pig Pellets,  Genetic issues, heart murmurs, lack of Fluids, Sick i.e. cold, Anorexia just to name a few.

Vet:  if the Veterinarian has no experience in anesthetized Chinchillas.

Age:  older Chinchillas between 1 - 3 years old can rapidly recuperate without complication so this is a nice age for them to be done.  Older than this and they can possibly still be done, but strict examination of health and stamina is needed by the Vet.

 

Pre-Operation

 

Preparing before an Operation is just as in important as care during an Operation. 

It is very important you DO NOT starve a Chinchilla before an Operation, fasting overnight before surgery is used in Dogs, Cats and other animals to prevent vomiting while under anaesthesia, chinchillas cannot vomit and also starving before surgery is not only unnecessary because of this but it also causes the Chinchillas gastro-intestinal tract to slow down becoming prey to gastric shut-down and shock, becoming more of a risk during surgery and after.  BUT if a Chinchilla is going in to have surgery on the intestines, liver or kidney/s the Veterinarian may state a Fast to reduce the intestinal contents.  A Chinchilla MUST also be well-hydrated before surgery, this helps to reduce the risk of adverse effects. 

This is also were a proper commercial Chinchilla Diet is so important, lack of proper balanced nutrients and high fibre will add more risk to your chinchilla during and after surgery.

But in saying these it is also important to remember in any Operation there is a risk, but this is with any animal not just Chinchillas.

Before you take your chinchilla in, give 1 drop of Arnica 1m Spray into the mouth. This helps prevent Shock, bruising, stops Haemorrhages and also helps if a Chin is uptight.

Depending, after an Operation a Chinchilla will need to stay at the Clinic for at least 6 hours, or it may have to stay overnight there, the Vet will let you know, so you must bring in its usual food (Pellets and Hay) and water bottle, any other special requirements your chinchilla may have which the Vet will usually ask you before hand, and also it sometimes helps to bring along a non-stringing blanket or towel from home for familiar smells. 

 

Anesthesia

 

ONLY inhalant anesthetics should be used on Chinchillas, Sevoflurane or Isoflurane are acceptable sedative gasses that are tolerated well by Chinchillas.  Many Small Animal Veterinarians already use Isoflurane (some clinics may not as it needs a special machine) as common practise but also commonly used is Halothane which is a high risk anesthetic for Chinchillas, so it is advised you check and/or request Isoflurane where possible.  Before you get a Chinchilla it is a good idea to phone around and ask Clinics, it is not that hard to do.  Below is a table of percentages of inhalation anaesthetics metabolised, bold titled are commonly used or only used:

 

Sevoflurane	3.0 % is metabolized by the kidneys and liver
Isoflurane	0.17% is metabolized by the kidneys and liver
Methoxyflurane	up to - 50% is metabolized by the kidneys and liver
Halothane	up to - 25% is metabolized by the kidneys and liver

 
With Small Animals such as Chinchillas, it is recommended NOT to use injectable sedatives.  Any sedative will slow down the gastro-intestinal tract (as above, why it is also important not to fast before as it will slow down enough with the affects of sedatives also), but sedative gasses can be more carefully controlled, are less potent and wear off quickly.  If an issue arises while the Chinchilla is under gas anaesthesia and it needs to be awakened they can put the Chinchilla on pure oxygen to quickly wake it.  It is more risky for the Chinchilla if an anti-sedative is administered with an injectable sedative in their system.  Something to also ask  Clinics about.

 

Analgesia

 

Pain relief/anti-inflammatory is very important, it cannot be stressed enough.  It is strictly advised for the Veterinarian to give the Chinchilla during surgery.  Please ask if this will be done, if not then why and if they will been given it after if not during, and check again when you pick up your Chinchilla, along with what pain relief was used, how long the pain relief will last, and if a prescription is necessary (will be necessary if none was given, otherwise if so it may last for up to 46 hours depending, so then they may ask you to just keep an eye on the Chinchilla to see how it goes).  Recommended Pain Relief used by Vets during or after surgery is Rimadyl which NZ does have, it is a Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory and has long pain relief between 24 – 46 hours.  Dose given for Chinchillas is 0.04ml once daily injection.  Other noted suitable Analgesics for Chinchillas are Butorphanol and Meloxicam (Metacam).  DO NOT try to give your Chinchilla human Pain Relief! 

MAKE SURE the veterinarian who is going to deal with your Chinchilla knows and understands the unique problems and sensitivity of these animals, how to properly treat them especially in medication including administering.  Do not feel you should not be asking your Vet questions no matter the situation, asking questions not only makes sure your chinchilla will have the best care but also helps you understand and be more at ease with what is going on.  Please take the time to look around, use the phone and search around properly.  Communication with your Vet is a must. 

At the end of this section are check lists of some questions to ask the vet where possible i.e. Neutering or other pre-booked Operations, and also questions to ask yourself, and preparations.  I hope this will be of help.

 

Post-Operation

Understanding Care by Vet

It is standard procedure that your Vet will keep the Chinchilla in recovery/observation for at least 6 hours while/until/after it wakes up.  This is because during this time it is important that it wakes properly (not forced), but more importantly so the Vet can observe and check it, and to make sure no problems arise while coming out of any anaesthetic.  Please note though, some Clinics regardless of type of Operation or time it was done, will keep the animal overnight as standard practise in their Clinic.

 

Immediate Post - Operative Care

After any surgical procedure it is very important the Chinchilla gets fluids and food into it within a few hours, no longer.

Ask and talk with your Vet BEFORE the Operation to make sure they will give fluid replacement under the skin during or just after anaesthetic.  Chinchillas will loose fluid during surgery and recovery, this will help reduce the risks and also get it into them faster and safely.  While in observation/recovery at the Clinic, the Vet should put the Pellets, Hay and Water bottle with water you supplied in with the Chinchilla.

It will take less than 12 hours without food and fluids after any Operation for the Chinchilla’s life to become dangerously at risk!

Immediate Post - Operative Care, Arriving Home

●        Keep the Chinchilla Warm at all times (for a couple of days at the least)!  This has to be done by a safe heat source such as an animal heating Pad for example, it is chew proof and water resistant - this can be purchased at Veterinary Clinics, usually you have to get them to order it, they may not be in the Store.  Ring and enquire a week before you are due to take your chinchilla in, to give time if they have to order it in.  Make sure you have a non-stringing Blanket over it, for comfort and more importantly to maintain body temperature.

Using an Oil Heater set to a low temperature is also advisable in the room, as this is dry heat and will nicely maintain body temperate, do not use gas heaters.  Do this before you pick the Chinchilla up from the Vets, it saves allot of rushing around and also so the chinchilla will not be left without warmth while you get it all ready, keeps stress also to a minimum.  Offering warmth in these forms is one of the main keys of preventing Post-Operative Shock (see signs and treatment of shock in Health).

●        Keep the room quiet and peaceful, keep the Chinchilla Stress free such as only handling if absolutely necessary, keep other animals including other Chinchillas and children out of the room, and provide it's own sleeping Box to make it feel secure and not vulnerable been ‘in the open’, remember they are triggered by instinct.  Make sure the Cage you have the Chinchilla in is a single level cage ONLY, it will need to be in this cage during recovery for a month.

●        When the Chinchilla comes home, immediately give extra fluids and food (even if the Vet has given fluid replacement under the skin).  Add Unsweetened Pure Pineapple Juice to the Water, 1 teaspoon per 250ml of Water.  If the chinchilla will not accept Fluids on its own, get a Syringe and slowly add drops on its bottom lip (keeping away from the nose), the chinchilla will then lick it off on its own.

Add Apple or Cider Vinegar to the water, this acts as a tonic and helps stimulate the appetite.  Amount to put in is: ½ teaspoon to 250ml of water.

With these in the Water, the Water bottle will need to be changed twice a day to prevent bacteria build up, then re-add it into the water.  Keep Juice refrigerated as instructed on packet.

Encourage the Chinchilla to eat on its own, DO NOT offer treats as a means to get food into it, or do not use food it is NOT used to.  Doing these may cause an amount of problems including a blood rush or/and prolapsed intestine, tummy upset or  seizures just to name a few.  After surgery’s such as neutering, the Chinchilla will be experiencing cramps from the Operation (just as people do also, but animals especially chinchillas are experts at hiding any pain as again they are triggered by instinct), so you want to make it as easy as possible for it and is another reason to keep the cage at a low level.  

If you cannot get the Chinchilla to eat at all, then you need to syringe Feed.  ONLY do this if it will not eat or will hardly eat at all, Syringe Feeding helps stimulate normal gut motility.  Prepare the mixture, and all the equipment before the Chinchilla arrives home, you want to get food into it ASAP to keep its gut to keep moving.  Make sure any food given is high in fibre, low in protein, keep Hay and Pellets in with the Chinchilla at all times, remembering that a Chinchilla may also not be that hungry due to been less active:

Recovery/Emergency Formula

1.   Using a Blender or Coffee grinder, put in half a cup of Chinchilla Pellets, empty 2 capsules of Acidophilus Powder (preferably the one with added probiotics), 1 tablespoon of Oatmeal.  Mix this all together until it is all powdered.

2.   Next add to this 1 drop of Arnica 1m Spray (helps prevent shock, Internal Bruising, stops haemorrhages, you will need to add this even though it had it before surgery). Mix Unsweetened Pure Cranberry Juice for thinning the mixture (used as replacement of water), add this as you need to make it more palatable at first as you will try to give the chinchilla this in a bowl to encourage it to eat on it’s own, or if it will NOT eat still, add more of the Juice to the Mix so it will go through the Feeding Syringe.

3.   1 Tablespoon of 100% Pure Honey can be added to the Mix if chinchilla refuses to eat, it also helps to prevent hypoglycemia, BUT regardless you should be wise and only add it if refusing is the case, and use no more because of the sugar.

Keep this in the refrigerator for up to 13 Days, no longer, feed this Mix at approximately 30mls a day, breaking that up and spaced out into 3 times a day (10ml syringe-as close to a full syringe as the chinchilla will take).  Chinchillas only eat until they are full, so you might need to decrease or increase that amount depending how it is responding.

 

Syringe Feeding Technique

1.   Careful NOT to have any air bubbles, fill the Feeding Syringe with the Mixture.  Keep a clean/sanitised bowl near for the Syringe to go into if you need to put it down somewhere during feeding i.e. if the Chinchilla needs a wipe from the food.

2.   With holding the chinchilla, have the heat source i.e. the Heating Pad, under it with different towel to that in the cage, hold the Chinchilla close to you securely (Do NOT hold the Chinchilla by the Tail) in a comfortable position for you to feed, have a napkin or thin face cloth available to wipe up any mess immediately.

3.   After the chinchilla has settled down, offer the Feeding Syringe up to it’s mouth away from its nose, and depress the syringe, putting a drop onto it’s lip, this is to see if the chinchilla will take it on it’s own before you attempt to do it yourself, wait for a minute and if it takes it wait to give it more, give it time to swallow it.  Keep this up if it takes it on it’s own, remembering to take it very slowly as to not make the chin choke.

4.  If the Chinchilla will not accept the Syringe on its own, you will need to Feed it yourself.   With the chinchilla still held secure, put end of the syringe (skinny tip where food comes out) into the side of the mouth, so the Syringe is behind the front teeth.  Depress the Syringe into the mouth, allowing a couple of drops of the Mix to go in and NO MORE, then immediately remove the syringe, wait for a minute to give the chinchilla time to swallow.  DO NOT force it in the Chinchilla!

They will ‘chew’ the Mix not swallow immediately, this is why it must be done a bit at a time, and doing that also makes the chinchilla feel more comfortable and more relaxed.  For this to be successful, you need to have patients, remembering the chinchilla will also feel your ‘vibe’, so the Chinchilla will become distressed, making this long time-consuming procedure even longer, if the chinchilla tries to struggle in any time during the feeding, stop immediately and keep holding the chin as you are, then carry on when it stops.

If you are lucky, after a few doses from you, the Chinchilla may end up taking it on its own.  I have found this in almost every case of me syringe feeding.

5.   Make sure any liquid on the chinchilla i.e. around mouth, chin, paws, chest is cleaned up as much as you can to prevent pneumonia. 

It cannot be stressed enough how greatly important it is to be careful and patient while syringe feeding any chinchilla.  Aside from been careful that the Chinchilla does not choke, if any Liquid/food is inhaled, it can cause aspiration pneumonia which is something a poor chin and yourself do not want to be dealing with.  Watch how much is been put in the mouth, watch for reactions by the Chinchilla, listen and watch for any coughing or sneezing, the key to it is to relax and let the chin take it’s time, not to make it feel stressed, as though it is been force fed.  If you have not done it before you should ask the Vet if they can demonstrate how to do it for you, this been shown to you will make you feel more at ease.

Illnesses & Aliments

Below I have tried to make an ‘easy read guide’ for some illnesses and aliments in Chinchillas.  I have deliberately left out allot of Treatments to avoid anyone who is not a qualified Veterinarian, treating a chinchilla themselves.  In some sections of this site I will go into Treatments/Medications for Owners only as an understanding on the hows, what’s, whys, positives and negatives (side affects or warnings) and/or the goals of the therapy.

I cannot say it enough, it is so important to see a Veterinarian (NOT a Vet Nurse please, they are not qualified Veterinarians there is a difference), DO NOT wait and see what happens, or wait to see if they come right, or have the attitude of letting Nature take it’s course (this goes with accidents and breeding also).  Delay in even a suspected ill chinchilla can cost the animal it’s life.  As soon as you spot or suspect your Chinchilla might be unwell.

Although chinchillas are quite hardy animals by Nature, having adapted to live in a rugged terrain (see wild habitat in The Chinchilla for photos), they like all living creatures are NOT invincible and can still fall ill, or with the way allot of people breed there can be hereditary problems also.  Chinchillas are very good at hiding pain and illnesses it is instinct been a prey animal, usually by the time you have spotted signs they have already been ill for a while, they do not all of sudden out of no where just become ill.

This is no substitute for Veterinarian diagnosis and treatment of any Chinchilla regardless whether long time breeder, Vet Nurse or Pet Owner. 

Prevention is always best in Chinchillas, proper hygiene, and a good proper balanced, high-fibre diet do go a long way in preventing illness and disease, proper breeding also helps allot.  Most illnesses that the domestic chinchilla will suffer from though will be directly or indirectly caused by dietary influences.

 

Constipation

Constipation is where the chins digestive system slows down, causing their droppings to become dried out and difficult to pass if at all.  Again, before diagnosing anything yourself please first take the Chinchilla to see a veterinarian, constipation for chinchilla’s is more so just uncomfortable than life threatening, but there could possibly be underlining problems such as a blockage, obstruction, or dental problems.  If the Chinchilla is given the all clear it should still be treated with care and not ignored/left untreated or it can turn serious leading to intestinal paralysis.

Symptoms	Possible Causes	Treatment	Preventions
Lack of or no appetite, stretching up on hind legs, droppings will appear very small, hard, dry, round or thin & curved, few or no droppings, lethargic, may look uncomfortable, abdominal pain	Lack of or no exercise, bloat, dehydration, pregnancy or after the birth, possible sign of not drinking & eating, unsuitable diet i.e. not enough fibre, too many treats, illness, blockage, shock, dental problems, surgery, medication, stress, infection i.e. enteritis	Encourage drinking by adding 10 drops per 250ml of water either pure unsweetened Pineapple juice, Ribena or apple/cider vinegar (not normal vinegar!), increase roughage, offer a once off prune, couple of raisins, if serious offer a tsp of syrup of figs, slice of apple, be warned NOT to over do it, if on medication such as antibiotics – give acidophilus 3 hours after until finished, when finished medication give probiotics	Plenty of fresh (as in not old, not green), clean roughage daily, keep accessories & cage etc clean, regular exercise, avoid over feeding, proper keep to a balanced diet to suit a Chinchilla, keep Chin interested in roughage by making ‘balls’ or ‘toys’ out of the roughage alone & changing where it is kept in the cage daily (this also helps entertain them as they would search for their food in natural habitat)

 

 

Diarrhoea/Soft Droppings

There is a difference between just soft droppings and diarrhoea, but all the same they can be from the same causes and/or soft droppings may lead to diarrhoea, but most of the time it will just come out of nowhere.  Diarrhoea should be taken serious in Chinchillas, it can be very difficult to treat, so catching it early is important.  It is often straight away assumed as been worms, before diagnosing anything yourself please first take the Chinchilla to see a veterinarian for full tests ASAP if diarrhoea is sever or you see obvious discomfort i.e. Not socialising, sitting there hunched up, stretching & rubbing tummy on cage floor.  Watch also with treatments that the condition does not turn opposite (constipation), make sure when chinchilla is normal again move back to it’s normal diet slowly.

Symptoms	Possible Causes	Treatment	Preventions
(any one or all of the following) Droppings appear soft, loose, mushy, ‘sticky’ by sticking to the cage, floor or other chinchillas, or leave ‘green smears’ on shelves, smelly, strong odour, runny droppings, loss of appetite, lethargic, droppings covered in blood or/and mucus, dull appearance in coat & eyes, weight loss, dehydration, stretching	Mostly caused by Diet - Changes in diet including treats, hay & pellets, or unsuitable or poor diet, stress, shock, too many treats, illness, infection i.e. Protozoal, gastro-intestinal, enteritis. green food, bloat, poor sanitation/husbandry including water bottle, mouldy or damp hay, intestinal parasites (when extremely pungent & nasty smelling), weaning, medication, ingestion of harmful substance or foreign objects i.e. cloth, plastic etc, pregnancy or after the birth, overcrowding, dental problems	Cut out pellets for 24 hours & ALL treats for a week, feed only Hay, filtered water & burnt toast or the pure/natural charcoal used by artists a few times a day (charcoal is excellent it absorbs any nasty bacteria floating around inside the intestine & helps dry up the droppings, only a mans thumb nail sized piece should do).  If sever diarrhoea cut all treats for a week, do not feed anything for 11 hours except filtered water, charcoal/burnt toast, after this time for the next 24 hours feed only hay & filtered water & the charcoal/burnt toast (& add probiotics to drinking water-available at Vets).  If only soft droppings increase Hay & decrease pellets for 3 days, add probiotics to water, cut all treats for 48 hours.	Treats kept to a strict minimum, keep accessories & cage etc clean, fresh pellets & hay daily (make sure Hay is not mouldy or damp, remove soiled from cage daily)-proper balanced diet to suit a Chin do not feed other animal foods, greens & fruits etc this is not their natural diet, do not disturb nocturnal cycle or cycle they are used too, try to keep to routine as much as possible, make sure diet is not lacking in fibre, wean and feed young chinchillas properly & appropriately, feed charcoal nuts twice a week if available

 

Incontinence

Incontinence is a genetic condition which is basically a deformity of the urinary system and is rare.  It is where the Chinchilla will constantly dribble urine, they can end up as bad as their whole underneath soaked in urine, to also having urine-scald.  Chinchillas appear to be fine otherwise, but eventually depression sets in and can cause other problems such as fur chewing, stress, lack of appetite and other health problems so as sad as it is if you ever come across this you will need to consider what the best thing to do is.  Chinchillas with this need constant gentle cleaning/washing and care a few times a day if more, if not done this will cause sever urine-scald and infections to the skin.

There is no known cure for incontinence of the genetic kind talked about here, cases where it is caused by stress, temperament or infection i.e. urinary tract infection, bladder stones etc, this cause will clear up in a short time when treated or when the Chinchilla gets to a certain age which is usually at around 8 – 9 months old.

Symptoms	Possible Causes	Treatment	Preventions
Will appear to urinate on it self - rear end of Chinchilla will be stained and wet (not to be confused with cage stain), sever cases – whole belly will be stained & wet, fur loss, irritated/red skin, matted fur, depression, illness	Genetic deformity of urinary system	No known cure     Veterinary diagnosis/treatment is essential ASAP.	DO NOT breed if you are not willing to do it properly, do not buy chins that you will let have babies from Pet Shops, owners or breeders who will not give/show you pedigrees, offer health guarantees & do not make it their intention or practise to breed for temperament & keeping out hereditary issues

 

Urolithiasis

Urolithiasis is when the Chinchilla produces abnormal sediment or crystals in the urine. These crystals irritate the lining of the urinary tract, and in some cases the crystals will block or partially block the flow of urine, making urination obviously painful or impossible.  If left untreated or/and misdiagnosed can lead to Kidney weakness/disease and eventual failure, or if the Chinchilla cannot urinate this prevents elimination of poisonous wastes and WILL cause death within days.  It is extremely important to obtain fast and accurate diagnosis by an experienced Vet preferably an Exotics Specialist Vet to avoid delays in diagnosis and treatment.  Treatment is possible if it is found and carried out early enough without any other complications.  Males are found to be more prone to Urolithiasis than Females (see: Rescue Diary’s for update on a Rescue here that underwent surgery for this).

 

Symptoms	Possible Causes	Treatment	Preventions
(any or all of the following) Inflammation around the base of penis/urethra cone and/or anal opening, belly and/or genitals are tender, loss of or no appetite, blood in Urine, dribbling or no passing of Urine, depression, noticeable pain/discomfort when Urinating, fevers/high temperature, fluid leakage from the anus, excessive licking of genitals, diarrhoea, emaciation	Diet i.e. wrong pellets, no or little Hay, Excessive levels of protein, ascorbic acid & or Vit D, supplements, Mineral/Salt licks/blocks, obesity, Dehydration, Medication, Metabolic Imbalance, genetic	Veterinary diagnosis/treatment is essential ASAP.	Correct diet, proper breeding (if you are a breeder OR allowing a female to have even one litter), avoid to much supplements or incorrect supplements, avoid Mineral/Salt licks/blocks, offer constant supply of fresh water everyday, once diagnosed AVOID foods high in oxalates such as nuts, tea (often used as treats), wheat, bran, keep to only correct pellets, Hay & Water (or what the Vet recommends)

 

Poisonous Plants & Plant
 
Poisoning Symptoms

 

Here is a list of Poisonous Plants and below this some plant poisoning signs. 

PLEASE remember that this is not a whole list and also some chins may have a reaction to plants others do not.  Do not assume that just because it is not on here it is safe.  Treat anything as if you were going to eat it, check anything you feed first.  Chinchillas do not throw up their food, so if anything is eaten it will be digested.  If you think your chinchilla has eaten any of these plants below or any other plant you are unsure of, please take it to the Veterinarian ASAP along with a sample of the plant!  If you or your Vet are unsure it is a good idea to take the plant to the Council and they can then identify it for you.

If you have house plants, remember to keep them in another room.  Some plants, even across the other side of the room away from the Chinchilla, give off scents and pollen which can drift throughout the room.  This can make sensitive Chinchillas eyes watery and/or Red.

Bittersweet
All Hybrid’s
Pitcher
Foxglove                                  
Pencil Cactus                                                                             
All Lily’s
Rose Periwinkle
Rue
All Nightshades
Swiss Cheese Plant
Wild Pepper
Aloe Vera
Boxwood
Amaryllis
Rhubarb
Apple Leaf
Barilla
Cherry Laurel
Gaultheria
Henbane
All Poppy
Savin
Rosebay
Solomon
Varnish Tree
Tropic Snow Dieffenbanchia
White Bryony
Tulip
Asparagus                                           
Spotted dumb Cane
Fern                                                    
All Ivy
Bleeding Heart
Flax                                                     
Aconite
Tomato Plant
Giant dumb cane
Amaryllis
Hyacinth
Angels' trumpets
Cordatum
Marble queen
Jessamine
Arborvitae
Indian rubber plant
Poison oak
Gold dieffenbachia
Golden chain tree
Dutchman Breechs
Satin pothos
Apple leaf croton
Meadow Saffron
Dwarf Bay
Primrose
Horse head philodendron
Jerusalem cherry
Daffodil
Heartleaf philodendron
Taro Vine
Flannel flower
Solomon seal
Indian rubber plant
Apricot Kernel
Lobelia tupa
Autumn crocus
Colombine
Burning Bush
Mistletoe
Daphne
Fruit salad plant
All Olive’s
May apple
Kingcup
Wild Pepper
Meadow Saffron
Buckthorn
Delphinium
Exotica perfection dieffenbachia
Saddle leaf philodendron
German primula
Caladium
Pineapple broom
Starflower
White Bryony
Granny's bonnets
Variegated philodendron
Latana
Cherry trees
Variegated rubber plant
Squill
Japanese show
Geranium
Tropic snow dieffenbachia
Leyland cypress
Monkshood
Henbane
Rosebay
Devils figs
Charming dieffenbachia
Silkweed
False Acacia
Onion
Pasque flower
Mountain laurel
Silver pothos
Variegated philodendron
Schefflera
Rose periwinkle
Poisonous Primula
European spindle
Moroccan broom
Heartleaf philodendron
Calico Bush
Holly
Lenton rose
Mexican breadfruit
Oak tree
Charming dieffenbachia
Lobelia tupa
Tree philodendron
Mezereon
Hurricane plant
Poison sumac
Chrysanthemum
Echium
Indian rubber plant
Lacy tree philodendron
Common Stonecrop
White Bryony
Precatory bean
Cyclamen
Red-ink plant
Ginger
Dracaena palm
Common Stonecrop
Laurel
Morning glory
Pothos
Cutleaf philodendron
Pokeroot
Bolivian Paradise
Varnish tree
Christmas rose
Dendrathema
Paspalum
Clematis
Moonseed
Gaultheria
Cyclamen
Jewelweed
Succulents
Dacrydium cupressinum
Hostas
Gunnera
Ground Covers such as Rubra, Snow-in-Summer, Variegeta
Butterfly Delphinium
Larkspur
Kingfisher Daisy
Sweet Pea
Candytuff
Forget-me-not
Lavender
Ground Moss
Natives such as Kowhai
Camellias
Rock Rose
All Rubra
Hydrangea Macrophylla

Again this is NOT a whole list, on a separate page on this site in "Diet & Nutrition" I have made a list of Safe and non Safe woods, so as to not get confused.

Plant Poisoning

Here are some signs of Plant Poisoning.  With some Plants, symptoms may not appear until several days, so again, if you suspect or if you know you MUST take your Chinchilla to the Veterinarian ASAP, this is only a guide to help you.

* Inflammations, Diarrhoea, Laboured breathing, Nausea, Swollen stomach, Hyperactivity/Nervous when not normal, Haemorrhages, Loss of Balance, Shock, Slobbering, Rash (Skin), Erosion of intestinal membranes, Lethargy, dermatitis, Blood in Urine or Faeces, Upset stomach, Seizures, Muscle Tremors/Spasms, Salivation, Swollen or Red Diastema, Asphyxiation (deprived of oxygen), Sight loss, Bad smell in Urine or Faeces, Ulceration, Hallucinations, Death *

I have dealt with Plant poisoning on 4 occasions, in those times it was merely an accident on the owner’s part, not purposely fed.  Chinchillas are very intelligent and will think about ways they can get to something they want, this and combined with how agile they are, means disaster. 

The owner misjudged this putting up the plants instead of leaving them in a different room.  Sadly only one Chinchilla survived.

In consuming the same plant these chinchillas all had different signs, the one Chinchilla that survived showed signs 2 days later, but she had treatment anyway at the same time the others did, which saved her life.  But over all Plant Poisoning is a serious thing which is more likely to lead to death, so please contact your Veterinarian.

Fungal Infection

Understanding Fungal

Fungal for starters, is a big pain and more so to get rid of I tell you!  Other names used are: Ringworm, Ringworm Fungus, Fur Fungal 
and the medical term is: dermatophytosis, prevention of this is defiantly a must.  It is not actually a Worm, but one of several species 
of fungi, hence the name used ‘Fungal’.  The common specific Species are: Microsporum canis, Microsporum gypseum and Trichophyton 
mentagrophytes.  

It affects the Skin and will cause loss of fur on the affected area so Fungal can be easily confused with Allergies (food, plant, cedar,
other), from Fights, Dry Skin, Rubbing at the bars (bald patch on nose), Mites and Lice, so Vet attention is needed to confirm, this 
is important.

It shows itself in bald spots around the eyes or/and nose, on the Tail and legs above the Paws, but as it is contagious it will quickly spread to other parts, turning sever if not treated.  Skin maybe redden, or you may see flaking scabs, hair loss (again please note to get it confirmed first), flaking skin, broken/short Whiskers with white ‘dots’ on the ends, ‘scaliness’ is common.  I say 'may' as about quarter of the hundreds of cases I have seen and dealt with have not been irritated, the rest I have seen have been slightly redden and to the above, or no redness at all.  Below are some photos to help give you an idea (sorry photos to come).

Infected chins must be kept away from all others in another room, be careful with clothing and handling not to spread it this way also, 
keep hands washed all the time, it is also good idea to wear a kitchen apron in the infected room.  And yes treatment must be given, 

Sorry when it comes to chins there are no good short cuts!


The fungal that is mainly found in chinchillas is a strain of ringworm the one found in cats and dogs, this strain chinchillas are very 
susceptible to, so there are many possible causes not necessary poor hygiene or neglect.  I will get into causes soon.  Fungal is highly 
contagious, it’s spores drops and drifts (in the air) these spores are very hard to eradicate and to make things worse they can live for 
a very long time between hosts, why a special routine must be taken and stuck to (as well as it spreads by direct contact), the Spores 
can live for six months to two years!  So if you cannot figure out why a chin has it after ruling out causes,  look back at the history i.e. 
did you move within 2 years, any visitors both people and animals.  Also see if there were any other chins affected where the infected 
chin was from i.e. breeders, Pet Shop.  If they are also weaned to early or if other animals had been in the house or at the door if you 
have a screen door, like stray Cats or neighbours Cats.


Oral treatment they give for chins is very risky especially in pregnant or nursing chins, I would definitely not suggest it unless 
nothing is working.  It has been proven other treatments work just as well depending, some may take abit longer but what is 
the risk worth, on a personal result I have had so many emergency calls about Oral treatment for Fungal.  They have many 
side affects so you want to try to avoid that the best you can, again prevention is always best.  

Oral Treatment to completely avoid is: 

- Griseofluvin

The Vets use the Woods lamp (florescent one), but also insist on a culture analysis as only 50% of a certain species of Ringworm 
fluoresces under the glow, so they may pass it as not a Fungal and give the wrong treatment.  Though this species is not common in 
chins but still a possibility, why you should always see a Exotics Specialist Vet where possible and not make up your own diagnoses.

Causes

 

Mouldy Hay (even the most slightest), contracting from humans, other animals i.e. Cats, Dogs, Kittens etc, Toileting areas, 
Damp environments like the Bathroom or near the bathroom or where sun does not get to, or if the carpet is damp (where they are 
running or have been running), humidity, stress i.e. moved cage, other animals, different cage, deficiency, chins that are weaned to 
early, little sunlight, acute shock, keeping dust bath in the cage, sharing dust baths, Vet Clinics.

(I will post up more on Fungal soon)

Vital Statistics

 

Please note this information is for Veterinary use and as a guide by owner, do not play Vet on your animals and use this as an opportunity to skip taking your Chinchilla to see a Vet, or think there is no need for one because you have this.  If it is found people are using this to do just that I will have no choice but to take it off, which will ruin it for those who do need it, so please use it wisely and do not be silly, and if your chinchilla needs to see a Vet take it.  They are not invincible and Vets are specially trained for a reason.

Pulse Rate	100 – 150 per minute
Respiration Rate	40 – 80 per minute
Body Temperature	38 – 39 C
Adult Weight	M = 400 - 500 grams F  = 400 - 600 grams
Life Span	Average = 15 years Max       = 22 years
Puberty	8 – 10 months
Oestrus Cycle	Average = 40 days Range    = 16 – 69
Postpartum Oestrus	Fertile (40%)
Breeding Season	November - May
Gestation Period	111 days
Litter Size	Average = 2 Range = 1 - 6
Litters Per Year	2
Birth Weight	45 grams
Weaned	8 weeks

Chinchillas: NOT "Allergy-Free"

NOTE: Source of This Artical on Allergys: ChinCare.com


ADDITIONAL ARTICLES: Chinchilla Cymru, Astraea's page

Animal proteins, not found in dander alone, are now believed to be the chief cause of allergic reactions by pet owners. Chinchillas don't have dander, but the potential still exists for them to produce allergy-causing proteins through other excretions, such as saliva or urine. Additionally, chinchillas require both hay and dust regularly, both items being common allergy irritants.

If you are allergic to hay or dust, it is adviseable NOT to choose a chinchilla for a pet, otherwise someday you'll find yourself having to re-home your pet or place him with a rescue organization. To quote from one re-homing request received by IPCR, "Before getting them we were under the impression that they were a good pet for people with allergies. This is a totally wrong assumption. Since getting them I've gone from having regular hay fever, to needing an emergency inhaler, to needing a steroidal inhaler."

While the following resources discuss animal proteins and allergies, they do not name chinchillas specifically and are intended as a general orientation:

"It was once thought that these people were allergic only to dander and cat hair, however it is now believed that these people might actually be allergic to protein particles that are found in various body fluids such as saliva, sweat (and yes, cats can sweat) and urine." > ref

"All warm-blooded, furry animals, such as the average household pet, can cause allergic reactions, usually because of proteins in their saliva, dander, and urine. When the animal licks itself, the saliva gets on the fur. As the saliva dries, protein particles become airborne and work their way into fabrics in the home." > ref- search "allergy"

"Rodent Allergy: Patients become allergic to rodents due to exposure to these animals in their daily work. The most common people at risk are veterinarians, laboratory technicians, and people who live in close quarters with rodents (such as pet owners and those who live in rodent-infested homes). Some examples of common rodents that humans come in contact with include mice, rats, and guinea pigs.

The rodent's urine has a high concentration of protein, which is the primary allergen to humans. The urine is often sprayed rather than deposited, thereby increasing human exposure. After the urine dries, the urinary proteins become airborne and are inhaled, leading to allergic symptoms." > ref- 1, 2

How Do Animals Cause Allergies? When we touch or work around animals, we expose our bodies to these allergens. The allergens, which we contact from animals, are called antigens and are transferred to us merely by inhaling, eating, rubbing our eyes, or touching our skin. Common animal antigens are as follows:

1. Cats-saliva, hair, skin dander, albumin (a blood protein).
2. Dogs-saliva, hair, skin dander, albumin.
3. Guinea pigs-urine, skin dander, hair, saliva.
4. Rabbits-fur protein, saliva, urine.
5. Rats-urine, saliva, bedding, albumin.
6. Mice-urine, albumin.
7. Pigs-urine.
8. In addition, gerbils, cattle, horses, sheep, deer, birds, reptiles, and fish can cause allergic reactions.

Symptoms of animal allergy can occur right after exposure; or a person can become allergic after weeks, months, or years of exposure. > ref

"If you can't bear to part with a cherished friend, there are some strategies you can use to minimize allergy symptoms... Use air purifiers in the bedroom to reduce airborne animal proteins. Groom and wash your pets weekly. If possible, have another member of the household do this. Keep pets away from your face whenever possible. Wash your hands and face after playing with her." > ref
PLEAS NOTE:  Again, the source of THIS particular artical on Allergys: ChinCare.com