|
|
|
Tuesday 31 May 2005
Day 39
|
We were sweltering this morning when we
were packing to leave for Cairns.
As we travelled up the highway the sky was very grey. We reached Tully and it
had been raining and by the time we reached Innisfail there was a very light
misty rain, but nothing came of it until this evening after we were all set up,
luckily. As we were heading into the grey weather we both had thoughts that
maybe we should have stayed in Townsville, it’s a very friendly place and the
weather had been excellent.
This stretch of highway is lined with more
canefields but also lots of banana plantations. The bananas are in coloured
plastic bags while still growing on the trees, so it makes for a colourful
sight.
|
|
Wednesday 1 June 2005
Day 40
|
Today is the first day of winter, so in
celebration of that fact we went for a swim in the pool. We’d decided quite a
while ago that we’d swim on the first day of winter and as it turns out it was
a 30° day.

Earlier in the day we went to the botanic
gardens and to the centre of town for a look around. Like Townsville the city
centre shops aren’t too interesting. There are a lot of travel agents and tour
booking agencies, cafes, motels and nightspots.
The botanic gardens are a showcase for the
beautiful flowers and plants that grow in the Australian tropics. While there
we also saw a Ulysses butterfly, it’s vibrant blue in colour, but it wouldn’t
sit still for me to photograph it.
|
|
Thursday 2 June 2005
Day 41
|
WHERE WE STOPPED ON THE GILLIES HIGHWAY TO PUT ON THE WET WEATHER GEAR
MILLAA MILLAA FALLS
ZILLIE FALLS
ELLINJAA FALLS
LITTLE MILLSTREAM FALLS
MILLSTREAM FALLS
We started the day with a visit to the Cairns
Visitor Information Centre. The lady there suggested a trip to the Atherton
Tablelands travelling there via the Gillies
Highway. Many people we have spoken to on our
travels have also said the tablelands are a must see and all the bike riders we
have spoken to have talked about the Gillies. The Gillies Highway has a 19 km stretch that
has approximately 200 bends.
We headed south to Gordonvale and then onto
the Gillies Highway.
I was a little concerned about the reputation of the road but it turned out
that the Gillies is an excellent road, yes there are many, many bends but the
road is reasonably wide with sufficient overtaking lanes and a good surface.
Once over the mountains we called into Lake Barrine
for a Devonshire Tea at the Tearooms. After our cuppas we went for a short walk
along the lake edge to see two 1000 year old Kauri Pines, massive trees about
45 metres tall.
We continued on through Yunguburra,
Atherton and Herberton to Millaa Millaa where we visited 3 waterfalls, Millaa Millaa
Falls, Zillie
Falls and Elinjaa Falls,
and got lots of photographs.
We then travelled to Ravenshoe, the highest
town in Queensland at 920m, passing a wind
farm along the way, and visited the widest waterfall in Australia, Millstream Falls
and one of my favourites the Little Millstream Falls. By this time it was
getting quite late so we asked at the Tourist Info Centre for directions for
the quickest way back to Cairns.
It turned out that the Gillies was our best option.
Tony was asleep fairly early, it’s been a
big day of riding, we must have done nearly 300km and not one straight road.
It rained again this
evening as it has every day we’ve been here.
|
|
Friday 3 June 2005
Day 42
|
After such a big ride yesterday we weren’t
in any hurry to go too far today. We pottered about the caravan park for a
while and then headed to the city centre to check to see if we had any mail.
We bought another battery and storage card
for my camera; I should never get caught out with low battery or run out of
space for pictures now. We bought a few food supplies and then headed back to
the caravan park for lunch.
Tony had a phone call today about some work
he’d applied for, so we need to be back in Townsville by 13 June, it’s
temporary labouring work. I’ve also applied for work in Townsville but as yet
haven’t heard anything. We liked Townsville and would be happy to spend a
couple of months there. We also need to leave from Townsville when we
eventually head towards the Northern
Territory.
Midway through the afternoon we packed some
food for a barbeque and went for a ride north of town on the Captain Cook Highway looking for a nice
beach for a picnic.
We checked out Trinity Beach
but it didn’t appeal so we travelled further north. Ellis Beach looked promising
but we thought we’d head a bit further up the highway. The road is a lot like
the Great Ocean Road,
it winds its way along the foot of steep mountains that meet the ocean. It was
a nice ride and we contemplated going all the way to Port Douglas for a look
but it was getting a bit late to travel that distance if we didn’t want to be
travelling on the winding road in the dark on the way back.

ELLIS BEACH
We turned around and rode the 20km back to
Ellis Beach. All that’s at Ellis Beach is a surf club, caravan park and a pub
where the public bar has an outdoor counter overlooking the ocean. There’s a
nice little beach with free electric barbeques and picnic huts, views to an
island off the coast and surrounded by mountains. We walked along the beach a
bit, not too much because Tony’s leg is still sore, and then cooked and ate our
barbeque.
This evening is quite warm, it may rain,
the wind blows up occasionally threatening rain, but none as yet.
|
|
Saturday 4 June 2005
Day 43
|
It’s raining again! We were told by the
people we met in Townsville that it always rains in Cairns, they weren’t wrong.
We went to the Saturday Market on the
Esplanade, it was mostly arts and crafts. We were going to go for a ride but by
the time we had on our leathers and wet weather gear over the top we were
getting saturated from the inside out, the weather is really steamy.
We went back to the caravan park and spent the
rest of the day doing nothing much.
|
|
Sunday 5 June 2005
Day 44
|
Sunday is the day the local Ulysses group
meet, so we rode down to Dunwoody’s a local pub to meet up with them. They
wanted to show us some of the well known roads for bike riding in the area.
We started out by heading up the Captain
Cook Highway 80 km to Mossman where we stopped for morning tea. After morning
tea we rode another 120km along the Rex
Highway to Mt Molloy, then down the Peninsula Development Road
through Mareeba passed farms growing all sorts of things including coffee,
avocados, paw paw, mangoes, broccoli and lots of corn. The Peeramon Pub is where
we stopped for quite a pleasant counter lunch.
After lunch we left the group and went off
on our own to see a bit more of the tablelands. We went to Malanda Falls,
and a massive curtain fig tree and then we went to the Cathedral Fig tree. Both
of these trees are massive, the Cathedral Fig tree is 500 years old and it has
a girth of 44 metres.
It was about 5.30 when we got back to the
caravan park after a ride of over 300km.
We watched a bit of tele, had some tea and headed out again to the Night Markets.
The Night Markets are held in an arcade on
the Esplanade, selling lots of jewellery, much of it opals, t shirts,
beachwear, aboriginal artefacts and art and basically things to appeal to the
many tourists who come here from all over the world. All the restaurants and
night spots along with the markets make the Esplanade really lively at night.
CURTAIN FIG TREE
SURROUNDED BY THE AERIAL
ROOTS OF CATHEDRAL FIG TREE
|
|
Monday 6 June 2005
Day 45
|
Today we travelled as far north on the east
coast as it is possible without a four wheel drive (or putting a knobby tyre on
the Harley).
We went to Cape
Tribulation which is in the Daintree Forest. Cape
Tribulation is a meeting place for two
World Heritage
Parks, The Great Barrier Reef and Daintree National Park.
Getting as far north as we could was our
aim, so we travelled straight up the Captain
Cook Highway without any visits to other places
along the way. To get to Cape Tribulation you take your vehicle on a ferry across
the Daintree River. Once across the river you drive
through amazing ancient forest for another 35km to Cape Tribulation.
After parking the bike we were walking
towards the beach at Cape
Tribulation and a Ranger
asked us to take a different path as a cassowary was walking towards us,
everyone had to stay still and let it pass, so as not to startle it. I would have
loved a photograph but I would have needed the flash, so I missed out there,
cassowaries are quite rare.
We went for a walk along the beach and a
boardwalk and then had a picnic lunch. We drove a little further north just to
see what the road was like but it was an unmade road with lots of water filled
potholes so we turned around and headed south.
We went on a walk through the forest at
Marrdja Boardwalk where the forest changes from rainforest to mangrove, both
very unique areas. The rainforest is filled with ferns and palms and giant
trees that are hosts for other plants and the mangrove has trees with aerial
roots and their own snorkels to enable them to breathe as they grow in mud,
it’s also very smelly in the mangrove.
After taking heaps of photos we took the
ferry back over the Daintree and travelled to Daintree Village
where I visited a woodwork gallery and a pottery.
On our way home we called into Port Douglas
for petrol and to see if we thought we’d enjoy a visit there when we had more
time, by this time it was 4.45pm. We’ll probably go there tomorrow for a look
around.
I was surprised by the amount of traffic on
the road home, we were travelling in peak hour traffic, I suppose everyone has
the same idea to get home before dark. We’ve had another 300km plus day of
riding.
The rainforest is magnificent, towering trees
supporting ferns and creepers and providing shelter for the palms and ferns
that grow beneath and the animals that live there. People come from all over
the world to visit the Daintree National Park, I feel very lucky to have been
able to visit it and proud that it’s in our country.
|
|
Tuesday 7 June 2005
Day 46
|
This morning I washed down the interior
walls of our tent, all the rain and humidity in Cairns has made a film of mould grow, it’ll
be nice to get back to Townsville to a drier climate. I had about 4 dishes of black water, see the photo.

We rode to Port Douglas for a look around.
It’s a very affluent looking place with many holiday resorts. I read that the
population of Port Douglas is only 3000 but it grows considerably with all the
tourists who stay there.
We had a look around the main street and
had a counter meal in one of the old timber pubs on the main street. They
mustn’t have a problem with flies in this area because everywhere you go they have
all the windows open with no fly screens, they also have ceiling fans running.
We went for a short walk on the beach and I
took some photos while I waited for a wedding to finish in a pretty little timber
church right beside the beach. I then took some photos of the church, St Mary’s
by the Sea, apparently it’s a very popular place for weddings.
Before we left town we rode up to a lookout
and took a few more pictures and did the same at another lookout on the road
home.
|
|
Wednesday 8 June 2005
Day 47
|
Not much
happening today, it’s raining as usual, so we went to town and had another look
around. We had lunch at Cairns Central food court before heading back to the
caravan park.
This afternoon
we thought we better try and find out why we haven’t had a bill for our
internet service as yet. We went to the provider’s website and signed up to
access our account online. What a shock we got when we saw that our bill for
two months access was $3,600! We had expected $100. Straight away we went to
the phone box and rang them. After half an hour on the phone (much of it in a
queue and then on hold) we had it sorted. The person who initially signed us up
had made a mistake with the plan we were supposed to be on. The lady we spoke
to today has sorted it out and our bill for $100 should arrive by email
shortly. Phew!!!
|
|
Thursday 9 June 2005
Day 48
|
My Birthday, we had a terrific day today,
we’d saved going to Kuranda until today because I had hoped that it would be a
special day.
At 8.15am we arrived at Freshwater Station
to take a ride on the Kuranda Scenic Railway. The train left at 8.45 and headed
towards the village
of Kuranda. The train
travels 75 km from Cairns
through 15 tunnels, 93 curves and over dozens of bridges, its construction was
begun in 1886. It’s a very pleasant journey with occasional piped commentary
letting you know when to be ready for the photo opportunities that arise, and
there are many, and a bit of the history of the line. The train travels past
both the Surprise
Falls and the Barron
Waterfall.
On arrival at Kuranda a free bus transports
you the short distance to the village. The village has a lot of art and craft
shops, many places to eat and way too many shops selling things to appeal to
the many overseas tourists who visit.
Kuranda has a Butterfly Sanctuary,
Birdworld, Koala Gardens
and Rainforestation
Nature Park.
I fancied going to the Butterfly Sanctuary, it was nice, but I was a little
disappointed because it cost $14 each to get in and it was quite small. I tried
and tried to get a decent photo of the beautiful blue Ulysses Butterfly, but
they won’t sit still (most inconsiderate!)

After a couple of hours in Kuranda we went
to the Skyrail terminal. We then boarded a gondola cabin which carried us high
over the top of the rainforest. There are two stations at which we stopped for
a look around, one at Barron
Falls (more photos) and
the other at Red Peak Station, both stations have things to do and look at and
there’s no rush, you just catch the next gondola that comes along, they’re
about 50 metres apart.

When we got back to Cairns we went to the Post Office to collect
mail, a birthday gift from my parents.
|
|
Friday 10 June 2005
Day 49
|
We packed up all our gear and loaded the
trailer leaving the caravan park by about 10.15. We were heading for
Gordonvale, just south of Cairns
where we’d been told a bike show was to be held on the weekend and that there
would be free camping on the pub grounds.
We stopped off at some shops in Cairns before we left
town to spend my birthday voucher from Mum & Dad, I bought some tops and
the new Rob Thomas (Matchbox 20) CD. We also grabbed a few groceries while we
were there.
On arrival at the Mountain View Hotel we
went in and bought soft drinks (in the can and only $1.50) and asked the
barmaid about the bike show and where to camp. She told us that the best place
to camp if we wanted a bit of quiet was down by the river.

After making sure there were no crocs in
the river we set up camp, apparently the pub is at too high an altitude for
crocs. It’s a really pretty spot with mountain views, obviously, and beside the
Little Mulgrave River, a crystal clear shallow stream. It was really hot while
we were setting up camp, we needed to put on sunscreen.
While we’ve been in Cairns we’ve ridden on a lot of roads that
had been recommended to us by people we’ve spoken to as great bike roads, but
we hadn’t yet done the Palmerston
Highway. Paul from Mackay had told us that the
Palmerston was magic, so we decided that we better go for a ride on it before we
left town.
Riding up into the mountains on the Gillies
the lovely sunny day that we’d been enjoying turned to cloudy, actually in the
clouds, and then rainy, of course, this is Cairns. After stopping to put on the wet
weather gear we rode to Millaa Millaa and got onto the Palmerston Highway. It has signs saying
there are steep declines and we were bracing for another road like the one near
Wollongong. It
wasn’t that steep at all, there are signs that warn of 10% and 8% decline, but
they’re long sweeping bends so you hardly notice that it’s steep at all. It
would be a lovely ride on a nice sunny day, the scenery is beautiful, lovely
rolling hills, lush and green, with mountain views all around.
We got back to the pub and went for a walk
around to see if anyone else had arrived early. We spoke to two couples from
Bowen and then went and had a counter meal. After tea we sat in the pub for a
while but we thought that we’d be up late the next night so we went back to the
tent and watched a movie. The batteries died on us before we got to see the end
of Coach Carter, we’ll have to catch it another time. We really are used to
having a powered site, but this one was free, so we can’t complain.
CLICK FOR NEXT PAGE http://www.freewebs.com/nomadandgypsy/mountainmadness.htm
|
|
|