Low buck diesel power

First note prior to all adjustments listed here:

install a pyrometer to make sure you dont melt your expensive engine down!

I live in Modesto, CA. If you live close, I can help out a little if you like. Send me a message thru Here: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/member.php?u=703 

(updated 4/8/08)

To gain access to the fuel screw on the 3116, you must remove the valve cover. If the seal tag/plate is still present it will need to be removed. You will need to remove the tag by removing the rocker shaft stand bolt. The screw and lock nut are on the rack bar, and take a 2mm allen wrench and an 8mm deep socket. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to increase rack travel.
Marine injectors are also available for an even better power increase. These engines arent known for making big power, and surviving it.

 

Tools needed-7/16" socket, a short extension or 2, and a screwdriver. If you look on the top of the pump you'll see a cover with 2 bolts that's about the same size as a Holley carb's float bowl. Fuel does come out sometimes, and does not need bleeding afterwards. Under it is a screw with a jamb nut. If you hit the accel. linkage you'll see a little pin come up. The screw stops the pin and thus, limits fuel. So adjust it as far up as you can as long as you can tolerate the black smoke. Most turbo'd 3208's can run fine with the screw all the way out(removed). And just behind that is the high rpm governor adjustment. It's labeled as 'high idle', but only go 2-3 turns at a time as to keep it under 3200 no load. Backing the screw out raises the rpm. One more adjustment is the pre-boost power. This is up in the front of the other 2 adjustments. It's round & has 3 bolts holding it & 6 holes in it. Take all 3 bolts out and you may have to smack it with something to break it loose(mosly from paint). Now tighten it like you're screwing it in tighter, that makes the power come in sooner. If you go 'til it stops, then you may see lots of smoke if you mash down on the pedal. Back it out as needed. 

Last edit:11/9/08
10k powerstroke mod works, but use a 4.7k resistor instead. Results aren't that great though, if you have an auto trans. Most notable power increase is around 12-1800 rpm, after that it's hardly noticeable. ICP sensor is up next to the valve cover, just a little ways back from the front on the driver's side. You can also put a 3.9k resistor on the manifold pressure sensor(MAP sensor in the gasser world). It uses the 5 volt source to sensor return, not ground. Other than that, Edge makes a plug in module for them. Another route is to get your injectors extrude honed, and the price is quite reasonable. http://www.gethoned.com/diesel.php

On the back of the pump is a cover/plate that is said to be almost heart shaped(the AFC housing). There are 2 allen head screws behind that plate that have 3/8 (on B&C's pumps, a single 7/16 on the A) locknuts on them. On an 'A' model you can just take the screw out, since it cant flow enough to cause any harm.  Carefully loosen the locknuts with a deep socket, then remove ratchet and insert the allen wrench through the socket so you can hold the locknut in one place. Turn both screws EXACTLY the same amount of turns. Usually start by going 1 full turn on both, then run it. Any additional turns afterwards should be no more than half. Don't get greedy, you'll burn it up. You can get well over 500Hp playing with those B model pumps, but don't come back here blaming me if you don't know how to take your foot out of it and let it cool down. With the screws were turned all the way out, and a C model turbo on it, you can get a little over 600Hp. But it gets hot, if not careful.

Here is the "springs method" for the 3406B&C. Much better results than the one mentioned above:

Take the line and 2) 1/4" bolt cover off the air fuel ratio on the very back and top of the gov. Nothing there to be scared of. Grab the plunger stem with plyers and break the 7/16" jam nut loose with box end wrench, Turn screw all the way in until just leaving enough threads to lock down. Not real precision, just set it anywhere tight. Re-assemble... On the very bottom of the rear of the gov. towards the outside (frame side) is another 1" tall 1/4" bolt cover. Remove the bolts, one on top of the other this time, and smack down on the cover with a screwdriver and hammer. The harder the better. It'll leave the gasket perfectly intact for reassembly that way. Again, nothin to screw up so have at it. Facing in from the back stick your pinky in the slotted hole and push in on that thing. Just face the front of the truck, turn palm up and stick it in. Again, and just to clarify, this is all idiot proof and you can't mess anything up on any of this. Ain't rocket science, for real. Easiest motor to jack up, for sure. SSSooooo, you'll feel the rack screw bar with the fuel and torque screws. Just push on whatever you run into in there. The more travel, the more servo movement. All you're doing with your finger is makin sure another bonehead wasn't in the playin. Make sure when you push it all the way in (about 5/16" travel plus change is about 425hp stock, but doesn't really matter how fat it does go) you can feel about .030" or so (just picture a .030" gauge and guess, really) of secondary spring pressure. That is the torque spring on the stop bar. It doesn't have to be exactly anything, just want that little bit of extra pressure for torque rise. I won't explain it all, but your feeling torque spring pressure from the screw making sure someone before didn't turn one screw out from the other (doing it wrong). There are two screws side by side. If there is no pressure there, turn the outer most screw (towards you) in until there is. Do this with a 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket (12 point is easier) with baby vice grips clamped to the very end as the lever and a sumthin stupid like 7/64" or somethin allen wrench down the center. Just take your allen set and stick it in the end of the screw to find the size (or call your local dealer, ask for truck shop and just ask em what size). Insert socket, break loose counter clockwise with allen wrench in hole, turn screw and lock back down. If your torque pressure feels OK, or you reset it as stated, back out both screws evenly to the tune of about 20hp per turn or so. Wipe off housing and cover and stick back on with original gasket. No glues on anything anywhere here. If the trucks in good shape, go 3 turns or so and run it a round. If your pyro stays below 950, meaning it's timed close enough to stock or advanced properly, turn it out another 3 and call her good. That's it. Have fun. It can be super tweaked with meter timing and gov. removal, but you'll be pretty happy like this unless you run into me on the road somewhere. Want peace of mind and better mileage, take it to someone trustworthy (Cat dealer, and tellem you want an old timer on it) and set a tight overhead ($225 or so) and meter time ($100) to (for your 92) 17.5 degrees at 1000 and start at 1230, plus remove the stop screw and toss it. This won't make sense to you but that's exactly what you tell him. He'll know just what you're saying, believe me. That'll land you between 5.2 and 5.7mpg depending on what you haul, and between 530 and 560 hp. You'll know it all worked when it goes from 20psi boost to 27 the first time (3 turns) and 32+ the next (3 turns). Add an 0R6051 turbo for a couple more pounds and better power ($1000 with your core as an even swap, and don't let them try to tell you there's a core charge. There isn't, for sure). And don't worry, it'll all take it just fine. With more exagurated tuning, she'd pull 800hp just as it sits with no motor mods whatsoever and live to 750,000 miles without a hitch. If you're running 15psi boost right now and the first 3 turns didn't increase the boost, have the dealer replace you air fuel ratio diaphram ($100). Have fun...  Thanks again to Tony from Welch Diesel Repair for this article!

 

I havent done this mod personally:

drill out the ball in the throttle shaft and back out the screw a bit

adjust your aneroid valve so it gets rid of the fuel supply delay to make it more responsive ( the aneroid's function is to limit fuel until the turbo spools up. Its behind the little tin cover beside the throttle shaft).

shim the governor spring

change the fuel pump button (I think its actually called an 'idle plunger' or something). This is the biggest bang for your buck. Its not that hard to do but I can't recall the specifics because its been over a decade since I did this. A few hand tools are all thats required to pop the cap off the end of the pump then a socket and needle nose pliers to pull the stuff out. The 'buttons' are stamped with a number on the groove where it is narrower and the lower the number, the more fuel pressure. The numbers go up in a weird sequence if I can recall --> alternating between the increase of 2, then 3, then repeat --> like 5, 7, 10, 12, 15, etc. Depending on how far you want to go, guys used to take whatever they had and drop the number by 10 or 15 and it was pretty safe.  Just be sure to have a pyro (that works properly), be sure to warm it up properly because that extra fuel will score a liner much quicker when not warmed. Do not lug the engine - drop a gear soon as there is enough rpm room to do so. Someone had an '84 Big Cam III and it had something like a 30ish button and we ran a 5. It was 'hot'!
The fuel pressure increased from somewhere around 180 to over 300. Some guys had a hard time with turbos when they did this. 

(update: 12/28/08)

For the 89-93's (Bosch rotary "VE" pump)there's a screw behind a tin access cover about the size of a nickel. Shown in this article: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm  . It takes a 1/2"(13mm) to break the jamb nut loose, then take the screw out. It'll have a metal band welded on it that needs to come off. Once that's off you can run the jamb nut farther out(towards the outside of the pump, about 2 turns). Then put it back in and test, some smoke more than others(especially with Lucas POD injectors!). The pre boost power adjustment is under a cover that looks like a vacuum diaphragm, and it is one. It has a torx bit with a jamb nut. Loosen the torx for more low end & tighten for higher. The governor spring is different than in the later 12 valves, and not adjustable, but reasonably priced.  The other adjustment is to rotate the diaphram, under the top cover with 4 screws. Turn the diaphram clockwise 90-120 degrees, this is like sliding the fuel plate on a 94-98. Now put it back in & test.
The best bang for the buck, is to get a gov spring, most of the time they are under $20, and let it rev up to 3200 rpm. If you plan on a gov spring, hold off on doing the fuel screw shown above, it needs to be close to stock setting. Great instructions are here:
http://www.dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor_Spring/

The 94-98 12valve:
Easy instructions at   http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf   They are instructions to replace the fuel plate, but instead of replacing you just slide it forward.  I also have another article with a couple pictures here:  (Link not working....will add it ASAP) . Not that I'm getting to the troubleshooting part here, but often overlooked is the overflow valve. It's basically the fuel pressure regulator and should be replaced every 100k miles.
and for the Governor springs:  http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15634

This uses a washer to shim the governor springs for more rpm, usually about 3200. It's the low buck alternative to a 3k gov spring kit(GSK). Although, you cant go wrong with the real thing. A real 3k GSK is usually $150 or less, and you need heavier valve springs if you start pushing past 3400 rpm(if you go with the 4k GSK). They also come with decent instructions, and can usually be done in just under 2 hrs for a first timer.

Detroit 6&8V92:
This is a copy from Diesel Stop, I haven't done these mods.

Adjust the no load speed up.
Back out the buffer screw a few turns.
On the back side of the governor is the cap held in by 2 bolts, take that off and you have access to the idle control and the top no load setting.
Loosen the small 1/4" nut at the end pack and back out the idle speed screw about 4 turns.
Loosen the large clamp nut with the 4 notches in it on the other end of the pack. then screw in the entire assembly 3-5 turns. Tighten the large clamp nut.
Fire engine up and adjust the idle screw to just below the desired idle. Tighten the idle screw nut.
Adjust buffer screw to desired idle and so when you stab the throttle the gov doesn't search.
Put cap back on and run it around and adjust from there.
You can also get better response by running a tight rack but with you sand jockeys playing with that makes for a good runaway so just jack up your no load adjustment and try to keep it below 2600 rpms at top no load.

taken from http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/

Lots of guys have at one time or another wanted to know how to adjust their Stanadyne DB2 fuel injection pump on an idi 6.9 or 7.3 diesel engine. It isn't really difficult to do, but I recommend not messing with the stock setting unless you have a pyrometer. It doesn't take much to overfuel a stock naturally aspirated engine, often with disastrous results.
Safety as always is important. On that note, probably the first thing one should do would be to disconnect the batteries, to ensure there is no power to the pump, or at least remove the wires so that if/when you rotate the engine, it will not start. The adjustment screw lives within the pump, but can be accessed through a little door on the passenger side of the pump. It is triangular in shape, and is held in place with 2 small bolts, and a gasket underneath to seal it. It looks like this.You will want to have either a shallow dish or a bunch of rags under the pump when you remove the plate, as about a pint of diesel fuel will spill when the plate comes off. The next thing to do is to turn the engine to align the adjustment screw internally. This can be done one of two ways that I know of. 1. You must put a large socket (15/16'ths) on the bolt on the front of the crank pulley. Rotate the engine till the timing mark on the vibration damper is at about the 1 o'clock position as seen from the front of the engine. This should line up the insides of the pump so that the adjustment screw will appear in the opening behind where the cover plate was on the pump. Since the crank turns twice for each one rotation of the injection pump however, you may get the timing mark to the 1 o'clock position and still not be able to see the adjustment screw inside the pump. It would look like this. (A small dental type mirror may help to see inside the pump here because of the angles etc)... If you look in and cannot see the adjustment allen screw, you must rotate the engine 360 deg. or one full rotation clockwise, till the mark again lines up at about the 1 o'clock position, and then you should be able to see the screw, and it should look like this. The other way to align the pump, is to take the cover off of the front of the injection pump cover housing. Inside this is the bolts that hold the injection pump timing gear onto the pump. There is also an alignment dowel. If you rotate the engine till this alignment dowel is at exactly the 12 o'clock position, then the adjustment screw will be visible through the opening behind the cover plate. Here's a pic of the opening and the dowel, but with the gear-to-pump bolts removed, and the dowel is at the 4 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock. Ok, now, all that is required is to get a good quality allen wrench which fits the adjustment screw(5/32) in size. The adjustment screw has locking threads, so make sure you have a good wrench, 'cause you don't want to damage this one or drop little bits of metal shavings inside your pump. To increase the fuel setting, it is generally recommended to go in small increments. Usually 60 deg. rotation, which is about the same as turning the wrench one flat, or 1/6'th of a turn. Clockwise will increase the fuel setting, counterclockwise will decrease the fuel setting. Put the cover plate back on, being careful not to overtighten the little bolts, replace the wires on the pump, and go for a run to see how it goes. Don't forget to watch that pyrometer!! Good luck with it.

Ford 6.6 & 7.8 are listed with the DT466 section below.

(last edit: 10/5/08)

Ford Powerstroke/International T444E:
The following is from another site  http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html

Injector Control Pressure Modification
aka the 10K Mod , also an 18k, also called diode or clamp mod for the ICP.

There's also the IDM mod:

http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmmod/index.htm

(updated 4-25-09)

For the mechanical pumps (up thru 93):

There's a 5/32" allen under the fuel stop sol. & cover, but is very risky to do. This engine can "runaway" if you're not careful. You have to remove the little linkage pieces inside the bowl. I think there's a spring, a small tin-like lever for the shutoff assembly, and the throttle/fuel control sliding plate. There's also a side access cover to get to the adjustment without having to disable the fuel shutoff and remove accelerator sliding pieces and springs. After you take off either cover (and/or the pieces inside) you'll notice a small hole, that's where the 5/32" allen goes. Sometimes it needs to be lined up by rotating the engine. Disable the glowplugs before doing this part! If you slowly rotate it by the alt. you'll see it come into sight. Now turn the allen about 1/4 turn clockwise, less on non-turbo and reassemble it all.

 For the 94 & up:This is the "optical bump", which basically gives a bump in timing, which the 6.5s seem to like.

This seems to work very similarly to the rotation of the entire IP, but with far less work and only the following common tools:

T-27 Torx bit
Snap Ring Pliers
T-40 Torx bit
A scribe
Two screwdrivers

The task is this - remove the top cover of the IP. You'll see the optical sensor there. Use the T-27 bit and the snap ring pliers to remove the cover and free up the optical sensor upper half.

The lower half is held in with a T-40 screw and a plate. Supposedly, shifting the optical sensor 1mm will achieve power gains. Scribe the area under the lock plate (Stanadyne supposedly does this already, but some pumps don't have a guide mark), unscrew the T-40 partially, take a screwdriver,
and shift the lower sensor assembly 1mm towards the passenger side. Use another screwdriver to hold the lock plate in place. Tighten everything and reassemble.

Supposedly, power increases and there is either a negligable or minor increase in MPG. And you don't need any special tools to rotate or loosen the IP.

Updated 12/28/08

Talking about the International DT series truck & tractor engines, 360, 408, 466, & 530(and a few in between), Ford/New Holland 6.6 & 7.8, and Mack E7. Roughly covering years from 1984-1997. Caution note, the electronic 466E/530E started in late 95. You can find some good injectors here: http://dieselperformancesolutions.com/Tractor_PullingFuel.htm     

They offer from a smidge above stock up to mega flowing tractor pull injectors. DT engines' torque specs are on the second page "Additional pix".

There's 2 different types of pumps that I've done. The mid 80's to 92(MW pump) and the 93 to 97(P-pump). For more hp than this Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. 1000hp for about $10k is what I hear about for the 466.  Plus, you can get a ton of power with just pump mods, Hypermax told me you can get 600hp before you even need to swap out injectors.  Your wallet will be your guide there!

 

You can adjust the rotary pump(older than 84). Under the big square cover is a plate. It's a fuel screw that's either on that plate or under it, I'm not totally sure. Still working on the rpm adjustment too. If you have done this, please post a picture on Diesel Garage forums! 

The easy ones are the 93-97 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it flat. Dont run with no plate like the "Dodge boys" do, these pumps dont like it & will run real crappy(it'll get too much timing advance). The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. Then the last adjustment is the stop screw. It stops the accelerator lever on the pump just like the one for the idle adjustment. While the engine is off you can see it hit when you cycle the lever to max. Just loosen the jamb nut and run the bolt into the pump for more travel. Then you can do the timing:

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7296
As for the governor springs, these are instructions for the 12V dodge, but it's still going to be about the same, just easier to get access.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15634

 You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm.  Another option is to just tighten the original springs 3 or 4 clicks. After you read the article linked above, the "clicks" will make more sense. Just make sure you tighten both sets of springs. Each click will be roughly 100 more rpm you can use before the pump starts to de-fuel(most stock trucks will only hit 2700 on a good day).

Now for the older type inline pumps('84-ish to '92):

updated 5/31/09

To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket. A good trick is to use a skinny screwdriver that fits inside the deep socket you just used on the jamb nut. As you hold the nut with the socket, back out the screw(CCW) about 10 turns, then snug down the nut. Now pull out the socket & screwdriver to make sure you didnt go too far. Run the accelerator lever to make sure the screw doesnt come in contact with the pump. If you go too many turns, you'll see what I'm talking about. Then if it's ok, a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done.  You can also remove the fuel screw all together, but it can get REALLY hot!!! The DT360's pump is small, so it usually doesn't get that hot. A magnetic screwdriver is handy for the screw removal.  Note #1: if you get the screw too high, it'll hit the top of the pump and make the rpm stick.  Note #2: If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet, and it's not that easy to get out. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke(essentially releasing the tension on the spring inside). There's also another screw & 13mm jamb nut at the rear-most end of the pump covered by 2 slotted screws. Clockwise adds more lower end smoke, and CCW reduces smoke. You will likely need to adjust this screw if you remove the fuel screw.  It is the pre-load to the aneroid(AFC).  The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above, except you cant use a Dodge/Cummins P-pump set of governor springs. I'm working on getting a shim to work on these MW pumps. The timing advance is covered in the same article as mentioned above or here it is again:  http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7296

 

(updated 11/21/08)

IH DT466E/DT530E (1996-2003):

The first place to try for more power is the IH dealer, they should be able to reflash the computer. Then, try the power adders.
10k mod from the powerstrokes works, but it's reported it only makes about 10 hp or so.
Here's the 2 modules that are out there for the 466/530E
http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Other/index.htm
Another module is out there for the 466E for the 96-03's. It's available thru DPP:
http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/     I've heard 30-35% increase.

Then, if you REALLY want big power after adding a performance module, Diesel Innovations.com can custom build you injectors for 450+ hp, but those arent low buck. A lower buck alternative for a 466E is to get a stock replacement injector from a 300hp 530E. It may not burn too clean, but it's an option. A realistic approach would be a setup from http://www.diy-injectors.com/ since they use the same injector body as a powerstroke, and many of the same sensors too. Another option is extrude honing your stock injectors, which is pretty cosst effective, http://www.gethoned.com/diesel.php . You may get an overboost code, but a boost fooler for a powerstroke should fix that. I haven't heard any reports from anyone with bigger injectors, so if you do, please report back on The Diesel Garage! Then there's the fuel pressure regulator. You remove the fuel pressure regulator and screw the plunger all the way down, back it off about a quarter turn, and get somewhere around 60-70 psi, where stock setting is 45psi. Another trick is to trade your "blue" cam position sensor with a "black" one from a T444E. Some guys with a 444 will gladly trade, because using the blue one in a 444 gives them a power increase.

Last thing I heard was to use a separate oil temp sensor. Disconnect the original(but dont remove from the block), and plug the new one in to the harness and zip tie it up & out of harm's way. This makes the computer think the oil is cold, and advances the timing & give a few more ponies...and technically SHOULD give better fuel economy.

 

The outer nut is the lock nut. The inner nut is turned to adjust the screw in or out. The fuel delivery increases as the screw moves out (=turning the adjusting nut clockwise).  On some model pumps there's a threaded cap over the adjusting screw and one lock nut. After removing the cap release the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise. Or into the FDC. And lock the nut back down. Only turn the screw in 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment rapidly move the throttle open and closed. Watch the exhaust smoke when it starts to blacken then stop and lock the nut back down. Not too tight because the screw is a fine thread into alumium and you may strip the threads.

updated 5-10-09:

http://z10.invisionfree.com/glcoalrollers/index.php?showtopic=61

Here's another version of the Lucas CAV pump adjustment. It's got pictures along with an easy to follow guide, plus results after the adjustment.

 

http://www.realdiesel.com/images/dpapump_030.jpg

Copy & paste the site above for reference. If your CAV pump looks like this then put the engine at TDC, remove the cover off the pump (the one under the ".com" in the photo)

turn up the fuel on a CAV
injector pump you take the fuel plate off on the side of the pump. When you
take the plate off it will empty all the fuel out of the pump so watch out!
You will then see a steel wheel with letters on it that sits on a shaft ,
you will see two black bolts that go through steel wheel with letters loosen
them, when the bolts become out of there holes, the bolts won't come out of
the wheel. Make sure, DO NOT SLIDE THE WHEEL off the spline shaft becuz it
is a pain in the arse to get back on. Okay anyways where the bolts go into
there is plate turn the plate one full turn you have to do full turns
because you have to screw the bolts back into the steel plate. The bolts
seem to come off good with an 8mm wrench and so does the plate on the pump.
After you turn the plate( by the way if you turn the plate the other way it
decreases fuel ) And put it all back together. You will need to bleed the
system after this.
( I was working on a pump on the left side of the vehicle and i turned the
plate toward me and the fuel was turned up so the other way obvisouly turns
the fuel down. )