This How To section is still undergoing  heavy editing. Most are not complete just bear with me and check back often.

All photos and DIY wrtie ups are sole property of Devas from this 420a website. If you want to use them on another site, please contact me.  A link back to my site and some credit is all that is required.

Disclaimer: In no way, shape, or form am I a certified technician or professional fabricator. Gheto-Tech style mods are for those of us with very little cash, and a lot of ingenuity. I highly recommend doing some additional research before experimenting. I am not responsible if you break something because of information you have received here. Good Luck.

STEP 1

Purchase a lighted mirror from a junkyard, e-bay, or if you want a brand new universal mirror I would recommend this site , but for those of us on a Ghetto-Tech budget stick with one of the first two recommendations. I picked a lighted mirror out of a third generation Chrysler Lebaron for only five bucks at the junkyard. I made sure that I took the entire harness connected from the Lebaron to the mirror, which BTW is the exact length from head liner to fusebox in the Neon. Also, don't forget to grab the mounting bracket and screw from the mirror you've selected.

STEP 2

You need to remove your existing mirror which is easily done by unscrewing a single phillips head screw located underneath the mirror arm.

STEP 3

Now you can remove the head liner, but I did not do this. I carefully pulled down the head liner in the center just enough to see that there was a metal square part in the roof where I could drill a hole for the new replacement mirror without drilling through the roof of the car. Here's where it gets weird, I took a screw from the bottom piece of my lower dash since this has to come off anyways.!? (WTF) Using a long phillips head screwdriver, and a steady hand with a little bit of strength I managed to push the screw like a slow moving drill bit through the headliner until I punctured the metal just enough to get the tip of the screw to penetrate, and finished with the new screw I took from the Lebaron to ensure a tight fit.

STEP 4

Now take your mirror to the battery and find out which is ground, and which is power.

STEP 5

Now that you have that figured out which wire is which it's time to pull out the b pillar, lower dash, and the fusebox. First unscrew the lower dash by unscrewing the three phillips underneath, and then the one on the side by the fusebox. Now simply pull forward there is only two clips holding it in now. Now pull the dash up just by applying pressure upwards seen here. Now pull the b pillar towards you starting from the top, but be careful not to break the plastic because it's only held in place by clips, and try not to break the clips either.

STEP 6

Now unscrew the two phillips holding the fusebox on it's left hand side, and pull it out.

I chose to use the wire running to the 20amp fuse that was supposed to be for a sunroof, and since I don't have a sunroof, and there was power already running to it this quickly became a Ghetto-Tech candidate. Now cut the blue wire about two or three inches from the box, strip wires from mirror, and twist both power wires from the new mirror to previous sunroof wire, and electrical tape that puppy up.

Place the ground cable from the mirror behind the bottom or top hole of the fuse box where one of the two phillips goes, and tighten down.

I took the two wires from the new mirror and twisted them together instead of routing one to the interior dome light, and one to constant power because... this is a Ghetto-Tech mod, and you obviously could do some research of your own and find the correct ways to make it come on when you open the door and so forth, but I did mine this way for three reasons.

3. Door switched ceased to trigger the dome light and did not feel like fixing it, but it still works when I twist the headlight switch.

2. I didn't feel like it.

1. The mirror only works with the key in the ignition thus preventing a dead battery from leaving the lights on after an all night drink-fest, or just plain forgetfulness.( don't drink and drive;)

STEP 1

Place hand under the bezel, and pull straight up. Mine was literly clipped in.(Kinda scray actually).

STEP 2

remove bezel from dash simply by pulling it away from the dash, and make sure not to loose the clips. Then pull towards you just a bit to release the non-clipping pegs that helps further secure the dash.

STEP 3 

Unscrew the four phillips screws holding the cluster, and carefully pull the cluster towards you while putting pressure upwards on the dash to make clearance for the clusters removal.

STEP 4

Now take your new cluster, and plug it in. Replace the four screws. Pop the dash back in, but sure you have all the clips lined back up, or you'll bend them and your dash might start rattling when your driving.If  take a close look you'll notice that  my gas light is on which I did not have before on my old cluster, and not only does the light come on it also chimes once when it originaly happens, and  once again every time you restart the car.

Another great Gettho-Tach upgrade.

Step 1

Push the rubber boot straight down until it unclips from the shifter stock knob.

The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to
take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs
in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno
proven time and time again.

As illustrated above, in order to perform this mod, mark the side
on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install
them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight
(that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use
your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug,
faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!

Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines

Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost
all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance
loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes
performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will
help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better
overall mixture.

In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your
local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and
air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel
lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.

Modification Number Three: Removing Weather Stripping

Remove the weather stripping on the back of your hood next to your windshield to help ventilate underhood temps.

Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil

In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils
through my engines and have found that for the most part -
all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils
definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact,
I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev
range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.

Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic.
Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a
far better lubricant and protector of your engine.

Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant

If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers
would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools
better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is
always going to produce more horsepower.

Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However,
NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which
will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter
to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter
should only be used for track purposes.